ClAXA-.k.'rL  Bk.&A&- 


THE  ETHEL  CARR  PEACOCK 

MEMORIAL  COLLECTION 


Matris  amori  monumentum 


TRINITY  COLLEGE  LIBRARY 

DURHAM,  N.  C. 

1903 


Gift  of  Dr.  and  Mrs.  Dred  Peacock 


m, 


w 


READING  ROOM. 

I 

i No.. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2015 


https://archive.org/details/narrativeoftexan21kend 


NARRATIVE 


OF  THE 

TEXAN  SANTA  Ffc  EXPEDITION, 

COMPRISING  A DESCRIPTION  OF 

A TOUR  THROUGH  TEXAS, 


AND 

ACROSS  THE  GREAT  SOUTHWESTERN  PRAIRIES,  THE  CAMANCHE  AND 
CAYGUA  HUNTING-GROUNDS,  WITH  AN  ACCOUNT  OF  THE 
SUFFERINGS  FROM  WANT  OF  FOOD,  LOSSES  FROM 
HOSTILE  INDIANS,  AND  FINAL 

CAPTURE  OF  THE  TEXANS, 

AND 

THEIR  MARCH,  AS  PRISONERS,  TO  THE  CITY  OF  MEXICO. 


WITH  ILLUSTRATIONS  AND  A MAP. 

BY  GEO.  WILKINS  KENDALL. 

IN  TWO  VOLUMES. 

VOL.  II. 

SIXTH  EDITION. 

9 7 

N E W-Y  O R K: 

HARPER  AND  BROTHERS,  82  CLIFF-STREET. 


1 847. 


Entered,  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1844,  by 
Harper  & Brothers, 

In  the  Clerk’s  Office  of  the  Southern  District  of  New- York 


7 f 1**  S 


ft* 

' X 


CONTENTS 

OF 

THE  SECOND  VOLUME. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Departure  from  Fray  Cristobal. — A broken  Gourd. — Cold  and  dreary  night 
March. — Encounter  with  a Regiment  of  Dragoons. — Wild  and  picturesque 
night  Scenes. — Southern  Women  in  a Northern  Climate. — News  of  Colo- 
nel Cooke’s  Party. — Sufferings  upon  the  “ Dead  Man’s  Journey,”  or  “ Jour- 
ney of  Death.” — A morning  Halt. — The  “ Lake  of  Death.” — Startling  Re- 
ports.— Murder  of  Golpin.  — A short  night  Halt. — Farther  Sufferings. — 
Sleep  impossible.— Another  gloomy  night  March. — Salezar  and  his  com- 
fortable Quarters. — Wild  roadside  Scenes. — Sufferings  on  the  increase. — 
Another  cruel  Murder. — Death  of  Griffith. — Our  Feelings  on  the  Occasion. 
— Once  more  on  the  Rio  Grande. — The  “ Journey  of  Death”  passed. — Ap- 
pearance of  the  Prisoners. — F ood  and  Sleep. — A singular  Incident. — Easier 
learning  to  Swear  than  Pray  in  a Language. — Farther  Inhumanities. — 
Threat  of  Salezar  to  search  the  Prisoners.  — Trick  to  outwit  him. — A 
Batch  of  valuable  Bread. — More  of  Salezar’s  Rascality. — A sunset  Scene. 
Death  of  Gates. — Gross  Inhumanity  of  a Mexican. — Dreary  Passage  of  the 
Rio  Grande. — Salezar’s  last  Command.— Arrival  at  El  Paso. — Old  Friends 
seen. — Find  ourselves  in  more  humane  Hands.' — General  Elias. — Our  hos- 
pitable Treatment  by  him. — Captain  Ochoa. — Sumptuous  Living. — Sale- 
zar in  Disgrace Page  11 


CHAPTER  II. 

Ramon  Ortiz,  the  young  Cura  of  El  Paso. — His  Benevolence.— A pleasant 
Ride  with  the  Cura.  — Description  of  El  Paso.  — Its  irrigating  Canals, 
Streets,  and  Rivers. — Residence  of  Ortiz. — Farther  Acts  of  his  Kindness. 
— A comfortable  Change  of  Linen. — An  Opportunity  to  vex  Salezar  im- 
proved.— Last  Encounter  with  that  Miscreant. — Arrival  of  a Courier  from 
Mexico.  — Departure  from  El  Paso.  — Hospitality  of  the  Inhabitants.  — 
Parting  with  Ortiz. — Inquiries  respecting  General  Pike. — A Camp  with- 
out Water. — Ochoa’s  Attention  to.  our  Wants. — Description  of  our  Escort 
and  Procession. — Mexican  Carts  and  Mexican  Character. — Opposition  of 
the  Inhabitants  to  Improvements. — Another  dry  Camp. — Arrival  at  the 
“ Diamond  of  the  Desert,”  a noted  Spring. — A Rest. — Difficult  Passage  of 
the  Sand  Mountains. — Appearance  of  the  Country. — A travelling  Stone  : 


z sr  % ? 7 


IV 


CONTENTS. 


its  strange  History. — Superstitions  of  the  Mexicans.— The  “Well  of  the 
Star.” — Poor  and  sandy  Country. — Appearance  of  the  Texan  Prisoners. 
— Strange  Variety  of  Costume. — Laughing  at  Misery  . . Page  34 


A singular  Hot  Spring. — Medicinal  Properties  of  the  Waters. — “ Doing”  our 
Washing. — Carazal. — Appearance  of  the  Town. — Dr.  Whittaker  in  Busi- 
ness.—Charley  Tirrell,  the  Delaware.— A strange  Contract. — Kirker,  and 
the  Stories  told  of  him.  — Captain  Spybuck  killed  by  Apaches.  — More  of 
Kirker. — Arrival  of  the  Seriora  Ochoa,  and  her  Style  of  T ravelling. — Oppor- 
tunity to  Escape  unimproved. — A Mountain  Spring. — Laguna  Encinillos. 
— Desolate  Appearance  of  the  Country. — Inroads  of  the  Apaches.— Their 
Prowess  and  Daring. — Increase  of  the  Tribe. — Visiters  from  Chihuahua. — 
Hospitality  and  the  Jesuits’  Hospital.— Situation  of  Chihuahua. — Mines  in 
the  Vicinity.  — Governor  Conde.  — Excitement  of  the  Inhabitants.  — The 
Military  of  Chihuahua. — ‘Entrance  to  the  City. — Carcel  de  Ciudad. — The 
Women  of  Chihuahua. — The  Plaza. — Description  of  the  Cathedral. — The 
Presidio. — Jesuits’  Hospital. — Salon  los  Distinguidos.  — Names  upon  the 
Walls. — Description  of  the  Hospital. — Apache  Prisoners. — Hidalgo,  with  a 
short  Account  of  the  first  Mexican  Revolution,  and  the  Death  of  that  cele- 
brated Leader 54 


The  old  Jesuits’ Hospital  of  Chihuahua. — American  Visiters. — Asked  for  the 
Particulars  of  my  own  Death.  — A stealthy  Interview.- — Dr.  Jennison. — 
Clean  Beds. — A sumptuous  English  Breakfast. — Prisoner  in  the  adjoining 
Dungeon. — A Meeting. — The  Mystery  unveiled. — Singular  Trial. — Testi- 
mony of  General  McLeod  and  Messrs.  Van  Ness  and  Navarro. — A Release 
from  Chains. — An  excellent  Dinner  from  the  Seriora  Magoffin. — Visiters 
at  our  Room. — Letters  to  my  Friends. — “La  Luna.” — Armijo’s  Letter  to 
Garcia  CondA — Implicated  with  the  Leaders  of  the  Expedition. — Lewis’s 
probable  Agency  in  the  Affair.— A Gasconading  Editor. — Poetic  Address 
to  a Horse. — Movements  of  Lewis. — A lively  little  French  Woman.— Our 
Treatment  by  the  Foreigners  in  Mexico. — Departure  from  Chihuahua. — 
Collection  of  the  Inhabitants. — Furnished  a Horse  by  a Friend.— Difficulty 
of  mounting  the  Pony. — His  Feats  and  Antics. — The  Mexican  Saddle,  and 
its  Advantages. — El  Ojito.— Encounter  with  American  Wagoners. — Arri- 
val at  San  Pablo.— A Chihuahua  Major. — Our  Accommodations  at  San 
Pablo. — Practical  Knowledge  of  Entomological  Science.— Mexican  Horse 
Jockeys. — Mr.  Falconer  mounted  again. — Saucillo—  An  Escape  agitated 
—Death  of  Larrabee. — A young  Mexican  Musician.— Santa  Rosalia. — The 
Alcalde  and  his  Daughter.— A stolen  Horse  claimed. — Military  versus  Civil 
Law.— Roadside  Graves  and  Crosses. — Stories  in  relation  to  them  . 74 


CHAPTER  III. 


CHAPTER  IY. 


-•  «r> 

» * 


> 


CONTENTS. 


V 


CHAPTER  Y. 

Arrival  at  Guajuaquilla. — An  Invitation. — Inhospitable  Hospitality. — A little 
Mexican  Lawyer.  — His  Self-importance.  — A disagreeable  Night.  — Our 
Companions  fare  better. — Again  on  the  Road. — Rejoicing  at  Guajuaquilla. 
— Tricks  of  a Wag. — Amusing  Anecdote. — Montezuma’s  Brother. — Arrival 
at  El  Rio  Florido. — General  Pike. — The  Hacienda  of  La  Noria. — Its  former 
Wealth  and  present  Condition. — Inroads  of  the  Apaches  and  Camanches. 
— A young  Irishman. — Visited  by  pretty  Girls. — A well-informed  Mexican 
Lady. — Musical  Soiree  and  Dancing. — Change  of  Scene. — Arrival  at  Cerro 
Gordo,  in  the  State  of  Durango.— Our  new  Commander,  Colonel  Velasco, 
pointed  out  to  us. — His  sinister  Appearance. — Visited  by  a Frenchwoman. 
— A Fandango  and  Cock-fight. — Departure  from  Cerro  Gordo. — A general 
Turn-out  of  the  Inhabitants.— Suspicions  in  relation  to  Ochoa’s  Integrity. 
— Our  new  Guard  of  Dragoons. — Their  Treatment  of  the  Prisoners. — Hon- 
ourable Conduct  of  Ochoa. — A roadside  Camp. — Colonel  Velasco’s  Char- 
acter begins  to  develope  itself. — Excellent  Provisions  provided.  — Large 
Droves  of  Horses  passed. — An  immense  Hacienda. — Former  Wealth  of  the 
Proprietress.  — Condition  of  the  Peons,  or  Working  Classes  of  Mexico. — 
Farther  Insight  into  the  Character  of  Velasco. — The  Texan  Officers  allow- 
ed their  Parole Page  96 

CHAPTER  YI. 

Arrival  at  El  Gallo,  or  The  Cock. — Singular  Names  for  Towns. — A rich  Sil- 
ver Mine. — Scenes  at  a Fandango. — The  Well  of  El  Gallo. — Arrival  at 
Dolores. — Guadalupe. — The  Prisoners  reach  Cuencame.— A small  Party 
of  us  quartered  at  the  House  of  a Castilian.  — Hospitable  Treatment. — 
Strange  Superstition  in  relation  to  a Statue.  — Gullibility  of  the  Poorer 
Classes.  — We  are  turned  over  to  a new  Guard.  — Selling  a Watch.  — La 
Senorita  Juana. — Colonel  Velasco  takes  leave  of  the  Prisoners. — Captain 
Roblado. — Story  in  relation  to  him. — Superiority  of  the  Bread  of  Cuencame. 
— Our  Departure. — Hacienda  of  Juan  Perez. — Roblado,  and  his  Treatment 
of  an  Alcalde.- — A tedious  March. — Arrival  at  San  Sebastian. — Frightened 
Girls  and  wounded  Dogs. — Freaks  and  Endurance  of  the  genus  Donkey. 
— Arrival  at  Saenea.  — Picturesque  Situation  of  the  Town. — The  Maguey 
Plant ; its  Uses  and  Abuses. — One  Drink  of  Pulque  sufficient. — A Gang  of 
“Involuntary  Volunteers.” — Mode  of  Recruiting  for  the  Mexican  Army. — 
Rancho  Grande. — Decay  in  Mexico. — An  American  Traveller. — Arrival  at 
Fresnillo. — The  Mines  in  the  Vicinity. — Meeting  with  an  Englishman. — 
The  Tienda  del  Gato. — Stories  and  Egg-nog. — More  “Involuntary  Volun- 
teers.”— A Stage-coach,  and  Thoughts  of  Home. — La  Caleta. — First  Ap- 
pearance of  Small-pox  among  the  Texans 115 

CHAPTER  VII. 

Approach  to  Zacatecas. — Tedious  mountain  March.— Picturesque  View. — 
First  Sight  of  Zacatecas. — Its  singular  Situatioi}. — Specimen  of  Roblado’s 

A 2 ' 


VI 


CONTENTS. 


Vanity— Entrance  into  Zacatecas— Character  of  the  Inhabitants —Pas- 
sage through  the  City.— Arrival  at  a deserted  Mining  House.— Miserable 
Quarters. — Permission  obtained  to  visit  the  City.— Inquisitive  Urchins. — 
Arrival  at  an  Irish  Restaurat.— A sumptuous  Breakfast.— Visit  to  a New- 
York  Gentleman. — A Stroll  through  Zacatecas. — Dinner  at  the  Restaurat. 
—Invitation  to  another  Dinner.— A goodly  Company.— Painting  of  Wash- 
ington.— A pleasant  Evening  in  Perspective.— Unrealized  Hopes.— Again 
at  our  old  Quarters  at  the  Mining  House. — Mr.  Falconer  in  Trouble. — 
Mexican  Justice. — Dr.  Whittaker’s  Mode  of  getting  rid  of  a troublesome 
Sentinel. — Subscription  raised  for  the  Prisoners. — Liberality  of  a Mexican 
Lawyer. — Departure  from  Zacatecas.— Convent  of  Guadalupe.  — Santa 
Anna,  and  his  Fight  with  the  Zacatecans. — Sack  of  the  City.— Refugio. — 
Arrival  at  Ojo  Caliente.— A Bathing  Scene.— Customs  of  the  Mexican 
Women,  and  their  Fondness  for  Swimming. — El  Carro. — Arrival  at  Sali- 
na. — A Kentucky  Circus  Proprietor. — His  Adventure  with  Roblado. — The 
Mexican  House  of  Entertainment,  or  Meson. — The  Foreigner  meets  with 
but  poor  Fare. — Modes  of  living,  and  Customs  of  the  Lower  Orders  of 
Mexico Page  133 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Departure  from  Salina. — Last  Speech  of  the  Kentucky  Circus  Proprietor. — 
His  Wishes  in  relation  to  Roblado.  — Arrival  at  Espiritu  Santo.  — Pass  a 
pleasant  Evening. — A Contrast. — La  Parada. — Wild  mountain  Scenery. — 
The  Organo. — A picturesque  View. — First  Sight  of  San  Luis  Polosi. — A 
beautiful  Valley. — Innumerable  Wells. — Large  Prickly  Pears. — The  Peru- 
vian Tree. — Our  Approach  to  San  Luis  heralded. — Arrival  within  the  City. 
— Beauty  of  the  Women.— Description  of  San  Luis. — Its  Churches,  Con- 
vents, and  public  Buildings. — Convent  of  the  Augustine  Friars. — Benevo- 
lence of  the  Brotherhood. — Wants  of  the  Sick  provided  for. — An  evening 
Stroll  through  the  City. — Market  Scenes. — Encounter  with  a Company  of 
Equestrians.  — A droll  Specimen  of  the  Y ankee  Genus.  — “ Old  Hundred” 
in  San  Luis. — Return  to  the  Convent. — Visited  by  the  Foreigners. — Our 
Yankee  Wag  and  his  Stories.  — Subscription  for  the  Prisoners  raised. — 
Allowed  our  Parole.- — An  interesting  Scotch  Lady. — Visit  to  the  Circus. — 
Appearance  of  the  Audience. — An  Invitation  to  Supper. — Find  ourselves  in 
the  wrong  House. — Apologies  unnecessary. — Supper  at  last. — An  Opportu- 
nity to  write  to  my  Friends  improved. — Departure  from  San  Luis. — A new 
Guard  and  new  Commander. — An  interesting  Incident. — Las  Pilas. — Arri- 
val at  El  Jaral.— Anecdote  of  General  Mina. — Wealth  of  the  Proprietor. — 
A singular  Funeral  Procession.— A “Hog  on  Horseback.” — Description  of 
the  Afrieros  of  Mexico 154 


CHAPTER  IX. 


A Night  at  San  Felipe. — Meeting  with  one  of  Mina’s  Soldiers. — Santa  Anna, 
and  the  Estimation  in  which  he  is  held  by  his  Countrymen. — San  Juan  de 


CONTENTS. 


Vll 


los  Llanos.— Sickness  and  Suffering. — Tedious  Mountain  March.— Pic- 
turesque Scenery. — Arparos  ; its  romantic  Situation. — Arrival  at  Silao. — 
An  American  Physician. — Kindness  of  an  English  Gentleman  and  his 
Lady. — Approach  to  Guanajuato. — Singular  Entry. — Laughable  Scenes. — 
Arrival  within  the  City. — Visits  from  the  Foreigners.— Fitzgerald  and 
others  taken  to  the  Hospital. — Liberal  Contributions.— Opportunity  to 
escape.— Departure  from  Guanajuato. — Singular  Location  of  the  City. — 
La  Puerta. — Arrival  at  Salamanca. — System  of  Recruiting  Volunteers. — 
Celaya. — Generous  Conduct  of  Cortazar. — Sunday  at  Celaya. — The  Cathe- 
dral.— Singular  Customs  of  the  Indians. — Cock-fighting  at  the  Theatre. — 
“El  Campanero  de  San  Pablo.” — A Spanish  Play. — Lady  Smokers. — De- 
parture from  Celaya. — Fertility  of  the  Baxio.  — Calera. — An  early  Morn- 
ing March. — Distant  View  of  Queretaro. — Arrival  within  the  City. — Sin 
gular  Currency  and  amusing  Anecdote. — Soap  a legal  Tender. — A Stroll 
through  Queretaro.- — American  Prisoners. — Spanish  System  of  Shaving. 
— Texans  Stoned  in  the  Market-place. — A Mexican  Restaurat. — Adven- 
ture with  a Friar. — Return  to  our  Quarters  ....  Page  173 

CHAPTER  X. 

Departure  from  Queretaro. — A stupendous  Aqueduct. — View  of  Queretaro 
from  a Mountain  Summit. — Number  and  Magnificence  of  its  Churches. — 
Meeting  with  Englishmen.— News  that  Colonel  Cooke's  Party  were  in 
Chains. — The  Diligence. — Letter  from  Mr.  Lumsden. — Liberation  of  Frank 
Combs. — Arrival  at  San  Juan  del  Rio. — Escape  of  two  of  our  Companions. 
— They  are  retaken  and  punished. — The  Indian  Village  of  Tula. — Strange 
Celebration. — Queer  Characters. — Crackers  and  Sky-rockets. — Approach 
to  the  City  of  Mexico. — Speculations  as  to  our  future  Lot. — Mr.  Navarro 
separated  from  his  Companions.  — Route  altered.  — “ Quien  Sabe?” — 
Kindness  of  the  Indian  Women. — Arrival  at  the  old  Palace  of  San  Cristo- 
bal.— The  Texans  locked  within  its  gloomy  Walls. — Visited  by  Mr. 
Lumsden  and  other  Americans. — A joyful  Meeting.- — Prospects  of  Release. 
— Description  of  San  Cristobal! — Release  of  Falconer  and  Van  Ness. — 
Visited  by  Members  of  the  United  States  Legation. — Difference  in  the 
Policy  of  the  United  States  and  English  Governments. — Cause  of  Mr. 
Falconer’s  Release. — Another  Visit  from  the  Americans. — File  of  Ameri 
can  Papers. — A Letter  from  Chihuahua,  and  its  Effects.- — Gloomy  Presen- 
timents.— Our  Men  supplied  with  Clothing  and  Blankets. — Celebration  in 
Honour  of  Santa  Anna’s  Leg. — Supplies  cut  off. — Sufferings  on  the  In- 
crease.— -Nothing  to  Eat.- — Resorts  of  the  Texans  to  obtain  Food.— Singu- 
lar Tribunals,  with  the  Results. — A Humorous  Witness. — Wild  Revel  in 
San  Cristobal 191 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Supply  of  Money  received. — Our  Sick  examined. — Visited  by  a large  Party 
of  Americans  from  the  City. — Hopes  of  Liberation  still  offered. — Reflec- 
tions as  to  the  Nature  of  my  Case. — Departure  from  San  Cristobal. — Start 


via 


CONTENTS. 


for  the  City  of  Mexico  upon  Asses. — The  easy  Gait  of  the  genus  Donkey. 
— Arrival  at  the  Shrine  of  “ Our  Lady  of  Guadalupe.” — Flimsy  Imposture 
which  caused  its  Erection. — Anecdote  from  Latrobe. — Nuestra  Senora  de 
los  Remedios. — Mexican  Beggars.— Tiresome  Travel  across  the  Plains. — 
The  Garita. — Mexico,  as  seen  in  the  Distance. — Arrival  within  the  City. — 
Forlorn  appearance  of  the  Texans. — Commiseration  of  the  Women. — 
Anecdote  of  Major  Bennett. — Arrival  at  the  Hospital  of  San  Lazaro. — Hid- 
eous appearance  of  the  Inmates. — A dreary  Night. — Visited  by  the  Hospi- 
tal Physician. — His  Prescriptions. — Description  of  San  Lazaro  and  the  un- 
fortunate Lazarmos. — Speculations  as  regards  the  Leprosy. — Happiness 
among  the  Lepers. — New  Sports  and  Dances. — We  are  visited  by  Mr. 
Mayer  and  other  Americans.— Our  Food  at  San  Lazaro. — Kindness  of 
the  Mexicans  in  their  Hospitals.- — Smuggled  Food. — Visits  of  the  Physi- 
cian.— Removed  to  other  Quarters. — Worse  and  Worse. — Find  our  Room 
overrun  with  Chinches. — -Our  Friends  gain  Access  by  Bribery. — Depar- 
ture of  Mr.  Lumsden  and  Friends  for  the  United  States. — Thoughts  of  an 
Escape Page  209 

CHAPTER  XII. 

Taken  ill  with  the  Small-pox. — Washington’s  Birthday. — A Patriotic  Amer 
ican. — An  excellent  Dinner. — More  of  the  Small-pox. — Ordered  to  move 
our  Quarters. — Once  more  among  the  Lepers  of  San  Lazaro. — Eight  of 
our  Companions  marched  to  Santiago. — Philosophy  in  Chains. — The  Irons 
nothing  after  one  gets  used  to  them. — Fresh  Air  and  Exercise. — Determi- 
nation to  forego  them. — System  of  Anointing  in  San  Lazaro. — Anecdote  of 
Lieutenant  Burgess. — Visit  from  Mr.  Lawrence. — His  Departure  for  the 
United  States. — Death  of  an  unfortunate  Leper. — A midnight  Funeral  in 
San  Lazaro. — Its  imposing  yet  gloomy  Character. — Mass  in  the  Church 
of  San  Lazaro. — Decorations  of  the  Establishment. — Disgusting  Figure  of 
St.  Lazarus. — A Procession  and  a Present. — Don  Antonio. — The  Fruits  of 
Mexico. — A File  of  American  Newspapers. — Present  from  Mr.  Ellis. — 
Visited  by  Mr.  Falconer. — Beauties  of  the  “ Vicar  of  Wakefield.”- — Death 
of  another  Leper. — Five  of  our  Companions  marched  to  Santiago. — Prep- 
arations for  a Celebration. — The  11th  of  March  in  San  Lazaro. — The  Hospi- 
tal visited  by  Throngs. — Compelled  to  receive  Alms.— Dinner  provided  for 
us  by  a Party  of  Ladies. — Take  an  Account  of  Stock. — Strange  Present 
from  a Mexican  Lady. — “ Charles  O’Malley”  in  San  Lazaro. — Another 
Celebration  among  the  Lepers. — Fondness  of  the  Mexicans  for  Flowers 
and  Ornaments.  — A dolorous  Chant. — The  Celebration  closes  with  a 
Dance. — Wild  Revels  of  the  Lepers 231 

CHAPTER  XIII. 

Another  Dance  in  San  Lazaro. — Mexican  Improvisatores. — Accident  to  a 
couple  of  Dancers.  — Fondness  of  the  Mexicans  for  Music.  — American 
Visiters.  — An  agreeable  Afternoon  passed.  — Good  Friday,  and  a better 
Dinner. — Fasts  preferable  to  Feasts. — A drunken  Lazarino.  — Touching 


CONTENTS. 


IX 


Incident. — Visits  of  our  Friends Jirohibited.-^Speculations  as  to  the  differ- 
ent Modes  of  escaping  from  San  Lazaro. — Several  Plans  agitated. — The 
Foreigners  once  more  permitted  to  visit  us. — News  of  the  Appearance  of 
an  American  Fleet  upon  the  Mexican  Coast. — Advised  not  to  attempt  an 
Escape. — A severe  Epidemic  in  San  Lazaro.- — Horrible  Colds  and  worse 
Coughs. — Death  of  another  Leper. — A second  midnight  Funeral. — Rarity 
of  the  Atmosphere  of  Mexico. — A regular  Uproar  in  San  Lazaro. — Jose 
Maria  and  his  inhuman  and  vicious  Conduct. — Mexican  Gamblers.— Far- 
ther Annoyances  from  Jose  Maria. — An  early  morning  Visit. — Prospects  of 
Release. — Santa  Anna’s  Reasons  for  not  liberating  us  immediately. — Gen- 
eral Thompson  at  Vera  Cruz. — Santa  Anna  anxious  to  shuffle  out  of  a 
Dilemma. — Bright  Anticipations  of  being  once  more  at  Liberty. — More 
American  Visiters.— Arrival  of  General  Thompson  in  Mexico. — The  An- 
noyance of  Suspense.  — A File  of  American  Papers.  — Visit  of  General 
Thompson  to  San  Lazaro. — Letters  from  Friends.- — A Visit  from  Mr.  Per- 
rin.— Prospects  of  Liberation  again  clouded. — An  Opportunity  of  Escape 
thrown  in  my  Way. — Determination  to  improve  it. — Anxiously  await  the 
arrival  of  Assistance  from  without Page  250 

CHAPTER  XIY. 

Hours  of  Expectation. — One  of  the  Santiago  Prisoners  brought  to  San  La- 
zaro, sick  with  the  Small-pox. — Disappointed  Hopes. — Arrival  of  a Guard 
of  Soldiers  at  San  Lazaro. — Mysterious  Conduct  of  the  Commander. — 
Ordered  to  prepare  for  Departure. — A vile  Litter  produced. — Refusal  to 
enter  it. — Leave  San  Lazaro. — “Farewells”  of  the  Texans  and  “Adios” 
of  the  Lepers. — Gloomy  and  mysterious  night  March. — Interior  of  the  City 
of  Mexico. — Stared  at  by  the  Populace. — A Coach  ordered. — Misery  likes 
Company. — Dogs  in  the  Outskirts  of  Mexico.— Arrive  at  our  Destination. 
— Farther  Uncertainty. — Ushered  into  the  Presence  of  Women.  — The 
Mystery  unravelled.— Find  myself  in  Santiago,  and  among  Friends. — Or- 
dered to  make  Choice  of  a Partner  in  Chains. — Select  Major  Bennett. — 
First  Appearance  in  Fetters. — Congratulations  of  my  Friends  on  the  Oc- 
casion.— Major  Bennett  quotes  Scripture  again. — Determination  to  escape. 
— Santa  Anna’s  Motives  in  the  Removal  to  San  Lazaro. — Action  of  the 
Mexican  and  United  States  Governments  in  relation  to  the  American  Pris- 
oners.— Consider  the  Chances  of  Liberation  as  hopeless  as  ever. — Strange 
Conduct  of  Santa  Anna. — No  Difficulty  in  shaking  off  the  Irons. — The 
“ Secrets  of  our  Prison-house.” — Character  of  the  old  Commandante  of 
Santiago. — Texan  Tricks  upon  a Mexican  Blacksmith. — The  Blacksmith 
and  Santa  Anna  in  Converse. — Description  of  Santiago,  and  Chances  of 
an  Escape. — The  Texans  going  out  to  labour  in  the  Streets. — More  Play 
than  Work 270 


X 


CONTENTS. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Fare  of  the  Texans  in  Santiago. — Their  Companions  at  Puebla  not  as  well 
treated. — The  Latter  compelled  to  work  and  associate  with  Mexican  Mal- 
efactors.— Anecdote  of  the  Old  Commandante  of  Santiago. — The  Texans 
achieve  a decided  Victory  over  their  Oppressor. — The  Puebla  Prisoners  at 
their  Tricks. — Attending  Mass  in  Chains. — Mad  Pranks  of  the  Texans  in 
Church. — Additional  Ceremonies  ingrafted  upon  the  Catholic  Ritual.— 
The  Reader  taken  back  to  Santiago. — Foreign  Visiters. — Farther  Thoughts 
of  escaping. — Action  of  General  Thompson  in  my  Behalf.  — The  Foreign 
Policy  of  the  United  States — Its  Weakness  and  Inefficiency.  — Santa 
Anna  “Laughing  in  his  Sleeve.” — Plan  to  bribe  our  Guard  at  Santiago. — 
Evening  Amusements  of  the  Prisoners. — Major  Bennett  and  his  Bible. — 
Agreeable  Soirees. — Character  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  Race  under  Misfortune. 
— Anticipation  worse  than  Reality. — The  Texans  taken  to  their  Morning 
Work. — Reasons  for  Slighting  the  Author.— More  Visiters  at  Santiago. — 
Advised  to  defer  an  Escape. — Preparations  for  celebrating  the  Anniversary 
of  the  Battle  of  San  Jacinto. — The  Texans  at  their  Work. — Experiments 
as  to  the  smallest  possible  Amount  of  Labour  a Man  can  perform  when  he 
exerts  himself. — The  Mexicans  Outwitted. — Decorations  of  our  Room. — 
San  Jacinto  and  Patriotism. — The  Texans  at  their  Celebration. — Close  of 
the  Anniversary Page  291 

CHAPTER  XVI. 

Intelligence  of  immediate  Release.— Its  Effect.— Close  of  the  Celebration. — 
Night  Visiters  at  Santiago. — Arrival  of  Mr.  Ellis  with  an  Order  for  our 
Release. — The  old  Blacksmith  again. — His  Services  dispensed  with. — 
Once  more  free  from  Chains. — Leave  Santiago  and  Imprisonment. — Cheers 
of  the  Texans  at  our  Departure. — Congratulations  of  the  young  Mexican 
Officers. — Another  night  Ride  through  Mexico.  — Encounter  with  a re- 
ligious Procession. — Arrival  at  the  United  States  Legation. — The  Gran 
Sociedad. — Comfortable  Quarters.  — Sleep  impossible.  — Change  of  Cir- 
cumstances.— The  Watchwords  of  Mexico. — Encounter  with  a Sentinel. 
— Early  Morn  in  Mexico. — Strange  Cries. — “ Carbon.” — Appearance  of 
the  Streets. — Picture  of  morning  Life  in  Mexico. — Change  of  Wardrobe. 
— Visit  to  a French  Barber. — A Shearing  and  Shaving  Operation. — Im- 
provement in  personal  Appearance. — Beggars  in  front  of  a Church. — De- 
scription of  the  wretched  Throng.  — Return  to  the  Gran  Sociedad. — A 
sumptuous  Breakfast— Visit  to  the  British  Minister,  Mr.  Pakenham. — • 
Once  more  in  Santiago. — Mexican  Girls. — Visit  to  our  old  Quarters  at  San 
Lazaro. — Bribing  a Sentinel. — Meeting  with  the  Texans  and  Lepers. — 
Call  at  the  Dwelling  of  a Mexican  Lady,  an  old  Friend. — Her  musical  At- 
tainments,— Anecdote  of  her  Spirit  and  Patriotism  „ 310 


CONTENTS. 


XI 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

An  early  Morning  Walk. — Beggars  at  their  Work. — The  Plaza  Mayor. — The 
Cathedral  and  Stone  of  the  Calendar. — Strange  Belief. — Interior  of  the 
Cathedral. — Its  Appearance. — Filthy  State  of  the  Establishment. — Agency 
of  a Pair  of  new  Boots  in  preventing  an  Examination  of  the  Cathedral. — 
Shops  of  the' Portales. — The  Streets  of  Mexico. — Another  Visit  to  Santia- 
go.— The  “True  Blue.” — More  of  Lieutenant  PIull.  — Encounter  with 
Major  Howard. — His  Disguise. — Particulars  of  the  daring  Escape  of  Cap- 
tain Hudson  and  Major  Howard. — The  Italian  Opera. — Castellan. — An- 
other Encounter  with  Major  Howard. — Farther  Particulars  of  his  Escape. 
— Temerity  of  Captain  Hudson. — Mexican  Pickpockets. — Their  Dexterity. 
— Mexican  Modes  of  Salutation.  — Cordiality  of  Greeting. — Anecdote  of  a 
Meeting  with  a fair  Mexican. — The  Mystery  solved. — An  excellent  Trait 
in  Mexican  Character.— Hospitality  of  the  Lower  and  Middle  Classes. — 
Their  Benevolence  towards  the  Sick. — The  present  Priesthood  in  Mexico. 
— Domestic  Relations  of  the  Padres. — Influence  of  the  Priests. — Their  Re- 
luctance in  resigning  Power Page  327 

CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Mode  of  passing  o.ur  Time. — Herr  Cline. — Mexico  by  Moonlight.— Note  from 
Madame  Calderon.  — Rambles  over  Mexico.  — A Dance.  — The  Jarabe. — 
Change  of  Scene. — A murdered  Soldier. — Touching  Instance  of  Grief- 
More  Moonlight.  — “ Qufen  Vive?”  — A staggering  Padre,  — Release  of 
Americans  through  the  Exertions  of  General  Thompson!  — Visit  to  Tacu 
baya. — Cruel  and  mysterious  Murder  of  Egerton  and  his  Mistress. — Visit 
' to  the  Acordada. — A Show-case  of  Murder. — Gloomy  Entrance  to  the  Acor- 
dada. — Some  Description  of  the  Interior. — Release  of  a Female  Prisoner. 
— Mr.  Navarro. — Story  of  his  Wrongs. — Robbery  and  Crime  in  the  Acor- 
dada. — Texan  Prisoners  within  its  dreary  Walls.  — Take  Leave  of  Mr. 
Navarro. — Farther  Description  of  the  Prison.  — Encounter  with  Dutch 
Broom  Girls.  — An  old  Acquaintance  in  the  Broom  Line.  — The  Ballad- 
mongers  badly  patronised. — Evangelistas,  or  .Letter- writers  of  Mexico. — 
Their  singular  Calling.  — Stock  in  Trade' of  the  Evangelista.  — Mexican 
Coaches  and  Mexican  Coachmen. — Another  Visit  to  Santiago. — More  of 
the  Mexican  Coachmen  .........  345 

CHAPTER  XIX. 

The  Alameda.  — Visit  to  that  noted  Pleasure-ground.  — A Yankee  Livery- 
stable-keeper  in  Mexico. — A Shower. — Paseo  Nuevo. — Family  Parties  in 
their  Carriages. — Mexican  Cavaliers  on  Horseback. — Singular  Gait  of  their 
Steeds. — Manner  of  training  them.— Race  with  a Shower. — Santa  Anna. 
— His  Courtesy,  Policy,  Power,  and  ambitious  Projects. — Reasons  for  the 
Decline  of  the  Mexican  Republic. — Our  last  Night  in  Mexico. — More  of 
Captain  Hudson.  — Santa  Anna’s  Benevolence ! — Take  leave  of  our 

II.— A 


XU 


CONTENTS. 


Friends. — San  Lazaro  again. — Mexican  Escort. — Mexico  from  the  Mount- 
ain Sides. — Arrival  at  a Breakfast-House,— Arms  and  Equipments  of  our 
Party.  — A Yankee  Driver.  — Roadside  Crosses  and  Graves.  — Stories  of 
Robbers.  — Robbing  the  Stages  reduced  to  a System.  — Senor  Garcia 
and  the  Ladrones. — Rio  Frio. — Mexican  Dogs. — Cholula  in  the  Distance. 
— Arrival  at  Puebla. — Visit  to  the  Texan  Prisoners  at  the  Presidio. — Their 
unfortunate  Condition.  — The  Cathedral  of  Puebla.  — Its  great  Riches. — 
Anecdote  of  the  Angels. — Superstition  from  which  Puebla  received  its 
Name. — In  Bed  and  Asleep  Page  361 

CHAPTER  XX. 

Preparations  for  Departure. — High  Words  with  a Mexican  Stage-agent. — ■ 
A Victory. — A Scotch  Traveller. — No  Room  for  another  Passenger. — ■ 
Leave  the  “ City  of  the  Angels.”- — Approach  of  an  Escort. — Appearance 
of  the  Dragoons. — Arrival  a-t  El  Pinal. — Roadside  Graves. — Change  of 
Horses. — A wild'  Mexican  Steed  and  his  Antics. — A rapid  Start. — A no- 
ted Stand  for  Robbers. — Another  doughty  Escort. — The  Mai  Pais  and 
Cerro  de  Pizarro. — Arrival  at  Perote. — Visit  to  the  Texan  Prisoners. — 
Their  Condition. — A vile  Supper.— A French  Lady. — Another  early  Start. 
— Coldness  of  the  Mountain  Air.— A false  Ala/m. — Colder  and  Colder. — 
Tierras  Frias. — Arrival  at  Las  Vigas.— In  want  of  Refreshments. — No 
hai”  and  “Quien  sabe”  again. — Wild  Mountain  Scenery. — Volcanic  For- 
mations.— El  Cofre  de  Perote. — Strange'Indian  Legend. — Leave  the  Re- 
gion of  Lava. — Remarkable  Changeof  Scene  and  Climate. — Sudden  Tran- 
sition.— Halt  at  the  House  of  a Mexican  Lady. — Singularity  of  her  Con- 
duct.— La  Guerra  Rodriguez. — Examination  of  our  Passports  at  the  Garita 
— Arrival  at  Jalapa  378 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

The  Cracovienne. — Large  Body  of  Mexican  Troops. — Their  Inefficiency. — 
Speculations  as  to  the  Result  of  an  Invasion  of  Mexico.  — The  Vomito  at 
Vera  Cruz. — Determination  to  remain  at  Jalapa. — The  Scotchman  we  had 
left  at  Puebla  arrives. — Work  of  the  Robbers.  — Indian  Girls  from  the 
Tierra  Caliente. — Picturesque  and  neat  Style  of  Dressing  their  Hair. — A 
pleasant  Ride.  — Departure  from  Jalapa.  — Description  of  the  Litera. — - 
Changing  Teams.  — Mexican  Drivers^ — Puente  Nacional. — Night  Ride 
through  the  Hot  Country.— Residence  of  Santa  Anna. — Fireflies. — Santa 
Fe. — Number  of  Dogs  in  the  Vicinity. — Singular  District. — The  Gulf  of 
Mexico  in  Sight. — Arrival  at  Vera  Cruz.- — A Conducta. — Sopilotes.— The 
Black  Vomit  again. — Arrival  on  board  the  Woodbury. — Commodore  Ma- 
rin.— Salutes. — Under  Way. — Pleasant  Passage. — The  Balize  in  Sight. — 
Author’s  Leave  of  his  Reader  . . . . . . . . 394 


NARRATIVE 


OF  THE 

FIRST  TEXAN  SANTA  FE  EXPEDITION. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Departure  from  Fray  Cristobal. — A broken  Gourd. — Cold  and  dreary  night 
March. — Encounter  with  a Regiment  of  Dragoons. — Wild  and  picturesque 
night  Scenes. — Southern  Women  in  a Northern  Climate. — News  of  Colo- 
nel Cooke’s  Party. — Sufferings  upon  the  “ Dead  Man’s  Journey,”  or  “ Jour- 
ney of  Death.”— A morning  Halt. — The  “ Lake  of  Dearth, ’’—Startling  Re- 
ports.— Murder  of  Golpin.  — A short  night  Halt. — Farther  Sufferings. — 
Sleep  impossible  — Another  gloomy  night  March— Salezar  and  his  com- 
fortable Quarters.— Wild  roadside  Scenes.— Sufferings  on  the  increase. — 
Another  cruel  Murder. — Death  of  Griffith. — Our  Feelings  on  the  Occasion. 
— Once  more  on  the  Rio  Grande. — The  “Journey  of  Death”  passed. — Ap- 
pearance of  the  Prisoners. — Food  and  Sleep.— A singular  Incident. — Easier 
learning  to  Swear  than  Pray  in  a Language. — Farther  Inhumanities. — 
Threat  of  Salezar  to  search  the  Prisoners.  — Trick  to  outwit  him.- — A 
Batch  of  valuable  Bread. — More  of  Salezar’s  Rascality. — A sunset  Scene. 
Death  of  Gates. — Gross  Inhumanity  of  a Mexican. — Dreary  Passage  of  the 
Rio  Grande. — Salezar’s  last  Command. — Arrival  at  El  Paso. — Old  Friends 
seen. — Find  ourselves  in.  more  humane  Hands.— General  Elias. — Our  hos- 
pitable Treatment  by  him. — Captain  Ochoa. — Sumptuous  Living. — Sale- 
zar in  Disgrace. 

We  remained  at  Fray  Cristobal  until  near  night,  the 
snow,  in  the  mean  time,  thawing  away  entirely  under 
the  influence  of  the  sun.  Salezar  said  aloud,  on  start- 
ing, that  we  were  to  be  driven  through  the  entire  ninety 
miles  without  sleep  or  a morsel  of  food,  and  as  there 
was  no  water  on  the  route,  he  advised  such  of  us  as  had 
gourds  or  canteens  to  fill  them  before  setting  out : an 


12 


CAMP  FIRES. 


exhibition  of  humanity  truly  considerate  and  unlooked 
for  in  him. 

At  a steady  pace  we  journeyed  onward  till  dark,  the 
weather  mild  and  pleasant  for  walking  ; but  now  a raw 
night  wind  sprang  up,  fresh  and  piercing,  from  the  snow- 
clad  mountains,  and  chilling  our  weak  frames  so  thor- 
oughly that  the  most  violent  exercise  could  not  keep  us 
warm.  A water-gourd,  holding  some  two  quarts,  which 
I had  filled  on  starting,  after  taking  a hearty  draught  at 
the  river,  slipped  from  my  benumbed  fingers,  and  was 
dashed  to  pieces  on  the  frozen  ground.  The  animals 
of  our  guard  went  begging  for  riders,  for  even  their 
hardy  owners  were  obliged  to  dismount  and  run  on 
foot  to  prevent  their  limbs  from  freezing. 

About  nine  o’clock  at  night  we  met  a regiment  of 
dragoons,  under  Colonel  Munoz,  on  their  way  from 
Durango  to  Santa  Fe:  troops  that  had  been  despatched 
by  the  Central  Government  to  take  part  in  any  hostili- 
ties that  might  occur  with  the  Texans.  Being  from  a 
more  southern  and  temperate  climate,  they  suffered  ex- 
cessively from  the  cold,  so  much  so  that  many  of  them 
were  leading  their  horses  and  setting  fire  to  every  little 
tuft  of  palm  or  dry  grass  on  either  side  of  the  road. 
Around  these  blazing  tufts,  and  scattered  along  the  road 
for  miles,  were  to  be  seen  knots  of  half-frozen  dragoons, 
mingled  with  a large  number  of  women,  who  always 
follow  the  Mexican  soldiery  on  a march.  How  the 
latter,  who  were  but  half  clad  even  in  the  warmest  cli- 
mate, could  withstand  the  bitter  cold  of  that  dreary 
night,  is  to  me  incomprehensible. 

Wild  and  picturesque  was  the  scene  presented  by  the 
train  of  roadside  fires,  each  with  a little  bevy  huddling 
and  shivering  around  the  red-glaring  and  fitful  lights, 
the  lengthened  and  flitting  shadows  coming  and  going, 


HORRORS  OF  THE  DEAD  MAN’S  JOURNEY.  13 

and  losing  themselves  in  the  sombre  obscuration  of 
night.  There  would  be  seen  the  officer,  cloaked  and 
blanketed,  standing  side  by  side  with  one  of  his  men, 
the  head  of  the  latter  covered  with  a clumsy,  bearskin 
dragoon  cap,  while  he  would  share  his  sky-blue  military 
cloak  with  some  woman  who  had  followed  him,  may- 
hap, from  the  tierra  caliente , or  sunny  south,  and  was 
now,  for  the  first  time,  visiting  the  region  of  snow.  As 
tuft  after  tuft  would  fall  away  at  the  touch  of  fire,  the 
wild  group  would  hurry  on  to  others,  soon  kindle  them, 
and  as  they  in  turn  would  suddenly  flash  up,  blaze  for 
a few  moments,  and  then  as  suddenly  expire,  away 
they  would  hie  to  the  next.  Eldrich  and  spectre  faces 
came  and  vanished  on  that  barren  moor,  that  did  strong- 
ly remind  me  of  the  witch  scenes  in  Macbeth.  While 
standing  around  these  fires  some  of  the  dragoons  in- 
formed  our  men  that  they  had  met  Colonel  Cooke’s 
party  near  Chihuahua,  and  that  they  were  well  treated 
on  the  road.  There  was  consolation  in  this,  for  we  had 
heard  many  rumours  of  the  bad  treatment  we  might 
expect  on  the  other  side  of  the  Paso  del  Norte. 

The  sufferings,  the  horrors  of  that  dreadful  night  upon 
the  Dead  Man’s  Journey  cannot  soon  be  effaced  from 
the  memory  of  those  who  endured  them.  Although 
my  sore  and  blistered  feet,  and  still  lame  ankle,  pained 
me  excessively,  it  was  nothing  to  the  biting  cold  and 
the  helpless  drowsiness  which  cold  begets.  No  halt 
was  called — had  any  of  us  fallen  asleep  by  the  road- 
side after  midnight,  it  would  have  been  the  sleep  of 
death.  Towards  daylight  many  of  the  prisoners  were 
fairly  walking  in  their  sleep  and  staggering  about,  from 
one  side  of  the  road  to  the  other,  like  so  many  drunken 
men.  Completely  chilled  through,  even  their  senses 
were  benumbed,  and  they  would  sink  by  the  roadside 
Vol.  II.— B 


14 


MURDER  OF  GOLPIN. 


and  beg  to  be  left  behind,  to  sleep  and  to  perish.  A 
stupor,  a perfect  indifference  for  life,  came  over  many 
of  us,  and  the  stronger  found  employment  in  rousing 
and  assisting  the  weaker.  Anxiously  did  we  wait  the 
coming  of  the  sun,  for  that  would  at  least  bring  warmth 
and  animation  to  our  paralyzed  limbs  and  faculties. 

Daylight  came  at  last,  and  with  it  came  a halt  of  an 
hour,  to  bring  up  the  stragglers  and  count  the  prison- 
ers. By  the  time  the  last  of  us  were  up  the  trumpet 
again  sounded  the  advance,  and  once  more  we  were 
upon  the  road.  Towards  noon  we  passed  the  Dead 
Man’s  Lake,  or  Lake  of  Death,  its  bed  perfectly  dry. 
The  coolness  of  the  weather,  however,  and  the  fact  that 
we  had  nothing  to  eat,  prevented  that  thirst  which  in  a 
warmer  temperature  would  have  caused  sufferings  of  a 
nature  that  cannot  be  described. 

As  the  sun  was  about  setting,  those  of  us  who  were 
in  front  were  startled  by  the  report  of  two  guns,  follow- 
ing each  other  in  quick  succession.  We  turned  to  as- 
certain the  cause,  and  soon  found  that  a poor,  unfortu- 
nate man,  named  Golpin,  a merchant,  who  had  joined 
the  expedition  with  a small  amount  of  goods,  had  been 
shot  by  the  rear-guard  for  no  other  reason  than  that  he 
was  too  sick  and  weak  to  keep  wp ! He  had  made  a 
bargain  with  one  of  the  guard  to  ride  his  mule  a short 
distance,  for  which  he  was  to  give  him  his  only  shirt ! 
While  in  the  act  of  taking  it  off,  Salezar  ordered  a sol- 
dier to  shoot  him.  The  first  ball  only  wounded  the 
wretched  man,  but  the  second  killed  him  instantly,  and 
he  fell,  with  his  shirt  still  about  his  face.  Golpin  was 
a citizen  of  the  United  States,  and  reached  Texas  a 
short  time  before  the  departure  of  the  expedition.  He 
appeared  to  be  a harmless,  inoffensive  man,  of  delicate 
constitution,  and  during  a greater  part  of  the  time  we 


salezar’s  care  for  his  own  comfort.  15 

were  upon  the  road,  before  the  capture  of  the  expedi- 
tion, was  obliged  to  ride  in  one  of  the  wagons.  The 
brutal  Salezar,  rather  than  be  troubled  witli  him  any 
longer,  took  this  method  of  ridding  himself  of  an  encum- 
brance ! It  may  be  difficult,  for  many  of  my  readers, 
to  believe  that  such  an  act  of  wanton  barbarity  could 
be  perpetrated  by  a people  pretending  to  be  civilized — 
to  be  Christians  ! I should  certainly  be  loath  to  hazard 
my  reputation  by  telling  the  story  were  there  not  near- 
ly two  hundred  witnesses  of  the  scene. 

In  half  an  hour  after  the  murder  of  Golpin,  and  be- 
fore it  was  yet  dark,  we  were  ordered  to  halt  for  a 
short  time,  the  horses  and  mules  of  our  guard  absolute- 
ly requiring  a little  rest  after  being  constantly  in  mo- 
tion for  more  than  twenty-four  hours.  Had  Salezar 
consulted  only  the  feelings  of  the  prisoners,  no  halt 
would  have  been  called. 

During  the  short  rest  now  allowed  us  we  were  per- 
mitted to  lie  down,  but  sleep  was  impossible.  Had  we 
been  granted  rest  during  the  day,  when  the  warm  sun 
was  shining  over  us,  we  might  have  slept,  and  soundly, 
too : now,  it  was  so  cold  we  could  but  curl  up  close, 
one  to  another,  in  a state  of  discomfort  that  forbade 
sleep.  At  ten  o’clock  at  night,  or  near  that  hour,  we 
were  again  roused  and  ordered  to  resume  the  march. 
The  short  rest  which  had  been  granted  was  far  from 
restoring  us  to  strength,  far  from  removing  the  soreness 
and  stiffness  from  our  bones  : on  the  contrary,  we  were 
now  more  unfitted  for  the  gloomy  march  than  ever.  We 
had  travelled  but  a short  half  mile  before  we  passed  the 
two  wagons  in  which  the  baggage  and  camp  equipage  of 
the  Mexicans  were  carried.  In  one  of  these,  stowed  snug- 
ly under  the  cotton  cover,  were  Salezar  and  his  lieuten- 
ant, the  redoubtable  Don  Jesus.  They,  at  least,  had  made 


16 


A WILD  NIGHT  SCENE. 


themselves  comfortable,  and  were  snoring  away,  utter- 
ly regardless  of  the  sufferings  around  them. 

About  midnight  we  reached  a part  of  the  desert  where 
the  high  branches  of  palm  had  not  been  burned,  the  dra- 
goons probably  passing  this  section  in  the  daytime. 
These  dry  tufts  were  at  once  set  on  fire  by  the  Mexicans 
to  warm  their  benumbed  and  half-frozen  hands  and  feet. 
We,  too,  crowded  around  them,  and  as  one  would  burn 
down  to  a level  with  the  ground  we  rushed  hurriedly  to 
the  next.  Our  line  now  extended  nearly  a mile  along 
the  road,  and  the  blazing  clumps,  which  flashed  up  like 
powder  on  being  ignited,  gave  a wild  and  romantic  ap- 
pearance to  the  scene,  more  especially  when  the  dark 
and  swarthy  faces  of  the  Mexicans  and  the  wild  and 
haggard  features  of  our  men  were  seen  congregated 
round  the  same  fire. 

The  early  hours  of  the  morning  were  colder  than 
any  which  had  preceded  them,  as  the  biting  winds  from 
the  mountains  appeared  to  have  a more  open  sweep 
across  the  desert  plain.  The  sufferings,  too,  of  the  pre- 
vious night  were  increased  in  proportion  as  we  had 
less  strength  to  endure  them ; and  here  it  should  be  re- 
membered that  we  had  had  no  food  given  us  from  our 
commencement  of  the  Dead  Man’s  Journey,  now  thir- 
ty-six hours,  and  that  we  had  been  in  active  exercise 
nearly  the  whole  time.  How  this  dreary  road  across 
the  waste  ever  obtained  its  congenial  name  is  more 
than  I could  learn.  It  certainly  deserves  it,  more  es- 
pecially since  the  murders  committed  along  its  line  by 
Salezar. 

That  faint  streak  of  lightish  gray  which  heralds  day- 
light had  but  just  appeared  in  the  eastern  horizon  when 
a man  named  Griffith,  who  had  been  wounded  by  the 
Indians  before  we  were  taken  prisoners  and  had  not 


DEATH  OF  A PRISONER. 


17 


entirely  recovered,  gave  out,  and  declared  his  inability 
to  proceed  any  farther.  He  had  ridden  a mule  until 
his  faculties  were  nearly  paralyzed  by  the  cold,  when 
he  jumped  off  and  again  undertook  to  walk.  Too 
weak,  however,  and  too  lame  to  travel,  he  sank  to  the 
ground.  A soldier  told  him  to  rise,  or  he  would  obey 
the  orders,  given  by  Salezar,  to  put  all  to  death  who 
could  not  keep  up.  Griffith  made  one  feeble  but  inet- 
fectual  attempt.  The  effort  was  too  much : he  cast  an 
imploring  look  at  the  soldier,  and  while  doing  so  the 
brutal  miscreant  knocked  his  brains  out  with  a musket ! 
His  blanket  was  then  stripped  from  him,  as  the  reward 
of  his  murderer,  his  ears  were  cut  off,  and  he  was 
thrown  by  the  roadside,  another  feast  for  the  buzzards 
and  prairie  wolves ! 

And  how,  it  will  be  asked,  did  we  feel  while  acts  like 
these — acts  that  leave  barbarian  deeds  of  cruelty  and 
blood  far  behind — were  enacted  in  our  midst?  The 
reader  must  understand  that  not  one  of  us  knew  but 
that  he  might  be  called  upon  as  the  next  victim ; that 
we  were  completely  worn  and  broken  down,  sick  and 
dispirited.  Callous,  too,  we  had  become  ; and  although 
we  could  not  look  upon  the  horrible  butchery  of  our 
comrades  with  indifference,  we  still  knew  that  any  in- 
terference on  our  part  would  bring  certain  death,  with- 
out in  any  way  aiding  our  unfortunate  friends.  Inly 
we  prayed  that  a time  might  come  when  their  death 
could  be  avenged — that  the  damnable  crimes  hourly 
enacted  around  us  might  be  atoned  for.  There  was 
the  breast  of  many  a hero  in  that  sorry  band  ; and  in 
its  pent-up  chamber  were  recorded  deep  vows  of  ven- 
geance yet  to  be  executed  upon  Armijo  and  his  conge- 
nial satellites. 

It  was  not  until  about  eight  o’clock  in  the  morning 

B 2 


18 


EXTREMITY  OF  SUFFERING. 


that  the  waters  of  the  Rio  Grande,  which  in  its  course 
had  swept  around  the  bend,  a distance  of  more  than  one 
hundred  and  sixty  miles,  were  seen  by  those  in  the  ad- 
vance. With  hurried  and  eager  steps  we  all  pressed 
forward,  for  we  knew  that  now,  at  least,  we  were  to 
have  food,  water,  and  sleep.  To  attempt  a delineation 
of  our  men  as  they  appeared  at  that  time  were  a boot- 
less task.  We  had  now  been  forty  hours  on  the  road, 
without  food  or  water ; in  this  time,  although  we  had 
travelled  ninety  miles,  we  had  had  scarcely  four  hours’ 
rest;  the  scanty  wardrobe  which  each  man  carried 
upon  his  back,  and  which  was  all  he  possessed,  had  not 
been  changed  since  we  were  made  prisoners,  and  was 
now  filled  with  every  species  of  vermin  known  in  Mex- 
ico. Add  to  this  the  sunken,  hollow  cheeks,  pale  and 
haggard  countenances  of  men  who  had  been  unshaved 
for  a month,  and  the  reader  will  have  a faint  idea  of  our 
miserable  aspect. 

Salezar  here  ordered  another  ox  killed — one  that  had 
made  the  entire  journey  with  us  from  Austin,  that  had 
escaped  the  stampedes  and  Indian  perils,  and  had  borne 
a due  share  of  the  labour  of  dragging  our  wagons  across 
the  immense  prairies  of  the  West.  With  his  former 
masters  he  had  suffered  and  been  captured,  and  now 
that  he,  too,  was  lame  and  broken  down,  weak  and  un- 
able to  travel,  like  them  he  was  ordered  to  the  sacrifice. 
It  did  not  seem  right  to  make  a meal  of  an  old  and  tried 
companion ; yet  necessity  knows  no  law,  neither  has  it 
feelings,  and  in  three  quarters  of  an  hour  after  the  poor 
animal  was  killed  he  was  cooked  and  devoured,  and  his 
quondam  masters  were  lying  about  on  the  grass  fast 
asleep.  In  the  afternoon  we  were  awakened  and  or- 
dered to  march  some  miles  farther — to  a place  where 
the  animals  of  the  guard  could  obtain  better  picking 


CROSS  PURPOSES. 


19 


than  at  the  camp  where  we  were  now  lying.  As  we 
were  about  starting,  a little  incident  occurred  in  which 
were  strangely  mixed  the  painful  and  the  ludicrous. 
For  some  trifling  cause  Salezar  drew  his  sword,  and 
with  the  flat  of  it  struck  one  of  the  prisoners  a violent 
blow  across  the  shoulders.  The  poor  fellow  had  only 
learned  one  Spanish  expression,  muchas  gracias — the 
common  phrase  employed  in  New  Mexico  to  thank  a 
person  for  any  favour  received.  Thinking  he  must  say 
something,  and  not  knowing  anything  else  to  say,  the 
unfortunate  Texan  ejaculated,  “ Muchas  gracias,  Sehor !” 
Another  terrible  whack  from  the  sword  of  Salezar  was 
followed  by  a shrug  of  the  shoulders  and  another 
“ Many  thanks,  sir.”  The  captain  was  now  more  infu- 
riate than  ever.  To  be  thus  publicly  and  openly  thank- 
ed by  a person  upon  whom  he  was  inflicting  a painful 
punishment,  he  looked  upon  as  a defiance,  and  he  ac- 
cordingly redoubled  his  blows.  How  long  this  might 
have  continued  I am  unable  to  say ; had  not  some  of 
the  friends  of  the  man  told  him  to  hold  his  tongue,  Sale- 
zar might  have  continued  his  blows  until  exhausted  by 
the  very  labour.  It  is  astonishing  with  what  facility 
many  of  our  men  picked  up  enough  Spanish  to  hold 
conversation  with  our  guard,  however  little  advance  the 
punished  individual  just  spoken  of  had  made.  The 
oaths,  in  particular,  they  soon  learned,  and  in  return 
they  gave  the  Mexicans  an  insight  into  the  many  impre- 
catory idioms  with  which  the  English  abounds.  It  is 
singular  how  much  more  easily  men  learn  to  swear  and 
blaspheme  in  any  language  than  to  pray  in  it. 

Our  march,  on  the  day  after  we  had  finished  the 
Dead  Man’s  Journey,  was  one  of  unusual  length  and  se- 
verity ; numbers  of  the  men  giving  out  miles  before  we 
reached  our  camping-ground.  Salezar,  as  fortune  or- 


20 


A HIDEOUS  SINGER. 


dained  it,  rode  in  advance  this  day,  and  although  the 
rear-guard  beat  and  mercilessly  abused  some  of  the  more 
unfortunate  stragglers,  they  did  not  go  so  far  as  to  take 
their  lives.  One  brute  in  particular,  our  more  lame  and 
unfortunate  companions  can  never  forget.  His  name,  if 
I ever  knew  it,  has  now  slipped  from  my  memory,  but 
to  recall  him  to  the  recollections  of  all  who  made  the 
gloomy  journey  from  San  Miguel  to  the  Pass,  I have 
only  to  refer  to  the  fellow  who  was  continually  annoy- 
ing us  by  his  harsh  and  most  discordant  efforts  at  sing- 
ing. As  a general  thing,  the  lower  classes  of  Mexico 
have  voices  of  rare  sweetness  and  touching  melody, 
and  often,  while  at  San  Miguel,  did  we  listen  to  the  lays 
of  a party  of  soldiers  with  pleasure,  as,  with  tones  har- 
moniously blending,  they  sang  a rude  but  cheerful  catch 
in  praise  of  Santa  Anna  ; but  the  notes  of  this  scoun- 
drel were  of  the  most  grating  nature.  Continually  was 
he  trotting  his  mule  up  and  down  the  line,  uttering 
sounds  which  were  almost  demoniacal,  and,  as  though 
he  thought  it  a fit  accompaniment,  he  sought  every  oc- 
casion to  insult,  ride  over,  and  strike  the  sick  and  the 
lame,  the  halt  and  the  weary.  Not  without  shuddering 
did  we  hear  the  horrible  tones  of  this  fellow’s  voice,  as 
he  would  approach  us  ; and  I cannot  doubt  that  this 
simple  mention  will  bring  the  grating  sounds  again 
ringing  in  the  ears  of  those  who  heard  him,  and  who 
may  happen  to  read  this  chapter. 

Some  of  the  poor  prisoners  parted  with  their  shoes 
and  shirts,  and  in  many  cases  even  with  their  blankets, 
in  payment  for  a ride  of  a few_  miles — the  unfeeling 
owners  of  the  animals  ever  ready  to  take  advantage  of 
such  as  were  unable  to  walk.  In  some  few  instances 
men  were  found  among  the  Mexicans  who  had  human- 
ity enough  to  take  up  some  unfortunate  Texan  and 


HOW  TO  HIDE  GOLD. 


21 


carry  him  a few  miles ; but  those  instances  were  ex- 
tremely rare. 

It  was  pitchy  dark  when  we  reached  our  halting- 
place  this  night,  a grove  of  cotton-woods  within  thirty 
miles  of  El  Paso  del  Norte,  and  so  tired  were  the  men' 
that  a majority  of  them  sank  supperless  upon  the  ground, 
too  weak  to  cook  the  scanty  ration  of  meal  which  was 
distributed  among  them. 

We  had  been  but  a few  moments  in  this  camp  before 
Van  Ness,  with  whom  Salezar  intrusted  many  of  his 
secrets,  informed  Falconer  and  myself  that  the  mis- 
creant intended  to  search  us  all  the  next  day : he  sus- 
pected, from  many  little  circumstances,  that  there  was 
still  no  inconsiderable  sum  of  money  among  the  wretch- 
ed prisoners,  and  if  his  suspicions  were  true,  he  deter- 
mined to  gain  possession  of  it. 

Knowing,  full  well,  that  his  search  would  extend  to 
every  portion  of  our  tattered  vestments,  making  it  im- 
possible to  hide  our  valuables  about  our  persons,  we 
now  tasked  our  wits  to  devise  some  scheme  wherewith 
to  cheat  Salezar  of  his  anticipated  plunder.  Various 
plans  were  revolved  in  our  minds,  but  dismissed  as  not 
feasible,  until  finally  I bethought  me  of  one  which  prom- 
ised success  even  though  the  search  should  prove  ever 
so  rigorous.  It  was  to  make  a small  batch  of  cakes 
with  a quantity  of  meal  we  had  in  a bag,  the  cakes  to 
be  seasoned  with  our  doubloons  and  such  other  gold 
pieces  as  we  had  in  our  possession.  This  plan  was 
adopted  at  once,  and  in  an  hour,  one  kneading  the  dough 
and  forming  the  cakes,  while  the  other  watched  the  sen- 
tinel on  duty  to  see  that  he  did  not  discover  our  trick, 
we  had  our  money  all  carefully  baked  with  the  excep- 
tion of  a few  dollars.  The  latter  we  carried  openly  in 
our  pockets  to  avoid  suspicion,  and  for  its  loss  we  cared 


22 


MORE  OF  SALEZAR’S  RASCALITY. 


but  little  so  that  the  main  amount  was  saved.  My  gold 
watch  and  chain  I gave  to  Van  Ness,  who  carefully  fold- 
ed them  in  his  cravat  and  tied  them  about  his  neck.  As 
the  prisoners  had  frequently  made  their  meal  into  cakes 
of  similar  size  and  appearance,  we  had  full  confidence 
of  outwitting  the  avaricious  scoundrel  should  he  make 
his  threatened  search. 

On  resuming  our  march  the  next  morning,  Salezar 
left  the  oxen  which  had  been  furnished  for  our  suste- 
nance on  the  road,  and  of  which  sixteen  were  still  left, 
behind  him : with  the  oxen  he  also  left  some  thirty 
horses  and  mules,  animals  then  in  possession  of  his 
guard,  but  which,  it  was  afterward  ascertained,  had 
been  either  stolen  from  the  inhabitants  of  El  Paso  by 
their  present  owners  themselves,  or  purchased  from  the 
Apaches  with  the  full  knowledge  that  they  had  been 
stolen.  This  bit  of  rascality  arranged  satisfactorily  by 
Salezar,  and  a small  guard  being  left  behind  to  herd  the 
animals  out  of  sight  of  the  main  road,  we  were  again  on 
the  move.*  About  sunset  we  arrived  at  an  encamp- 
ment directly  in  the  mouth  of  the  gorge  through  which 
the  Rio  Grande  has  forced  a passage — the  well-known 
gap  in  the  mountains  called  by  the  Mexicans  El  Paso 
del  Norte,  or  the  Pass  of  the  North,  and  within  eight 
miles  of  the  large  town  of  El  Paso. 

* The  pack  mule  which  Salezar  took  from  me,  at  the  time  of  our  arrest, 
he  frequently  rode  upon  the  journey  between  San  Miguel  and  El  Paso.  She 
was  a strong,  powerful  animal,  but  an  extremely  hard  one  to  ride,  having,  in 
addition  to  a trick  of  throwing  people  over  her  head,  a jolting  and  most  uneasy 
and  unsteady  trot.  To  show  the  cool  effrontery  of  Dimasio,  he  complained, 
on  several  occasions,  of  the  gait  of  the  animal,  and  said  that  he  was  disap- 
pointed in  her ! It  is  generally  considered  indelicate  to  “ look  a gift  horse  in 
the  mouth,”  or  allude  to  any  little  faults  he  may  possess ; I do  not  see  why  the 
same  rule  should  not  apply  to  a stolen  mule.  That  she  might  take  the  whim 
to  throw  Salezar  over  her  head,  as  had  frequently  been  her  wont  when  her  ri- 
ders were  Americans,  was  a result  I am  frank  enough  to  say  I hoped  for ; but 
I could  never  learn  that  she  indulged  in  any  of  her  old  tricks  while  in  the 
hands  of  her  new  master. 


A SPLENDID  SUNSET. 


23 


I have  said  that  the  sun  was  about  setting  when  we 
arrived  at  our  camping-ground  : that  luminary  lacked 
some  half  hour  yet  of  his  going  down,  and  never  have  I 
seen  him  sink  below  the  western  horizon  with  such  a 
glow  of  splendour  and  magnificence  around  him  as  on 
that  occasion.  Immediately  in  front  of  us,  running  near- 
ly north  and  south,  rose  a chain  of  frowning  mountains, 
through  which,  although  at  the  time  we  could  not  tell 
how  or  where,  the  Rio  Grande  has  forced  its  way.  The 
table-land  on  which  we  stood  reached  far  as  the  eye 
could  see  to  the  west.  Those  who  have  watched  the 
sun  in  his  setting,  may  have  fancied  that  on  approach- 
ing near  his  apparent  resting-place  he  drops,  as  it  were, 
several  feet  at  a time,  then  lingers  stationary  for  a mo- 
ment, then  drops  towards  his  nightly  retreat  again,  as  if 
hurrying  to  finish  his  day’s  work  and  reach  his  evening 
couch  of  rest.  So  it  was  on  this  occasion,  and  from 
some  peculiarity  in  the  atmosphere  the  broad  face  of 
the  god  of  day  appeared  of  deeper  yet  more  subdued 
red,  and  of  four  times  its  ordinary  size.  The  evening 
air  was  of  a most  wooing  temperature — mild  and  bland. 
The  eastern  sky  received  a reflection  of  softened  yet 
golden  lustre,  while  the  mountain  sides  were  clothed 
with  a gorgeous  but  mellow  atmosphere,  and  the  shad- 
ows sent  among  the  frowning  clefts  by  the  last  rays  of 
the  setting  sun  were  softened  and  suffused  by  the  uni- 
versal glow.  While  contemplating  the  lovely  scene, 
and  lost  to  all  around  me  in  admiration  of  its  rare  and 
almost  holy  beauty,  I was  suddenly  aroused  by  the  re- 
port that  a poor  fellow  named  Gates  was  dying  in  one 
of  the  wagons.  He  had  taken  a severe  cold  the  night 
we  were  all  penned  in  the  two  small  rooms,  and  inflam- 
mation of  the  lungs  had  ensued  ; and  now,  without  med- 
icine, without  the  kind  offices  of  relations,  without  the 


24 


A BRUTAL  MEXICAN. 


thousand  charities  and  home-comforts  that  are  not  to  be 
found  in  such  a wo-worn  band  as  ours,  he  was  dying, 
and  among  those  who  would  deny  him  even  the  last  sad 
rites  of  sepulture  ! 

On  looking  towards  the  wagon  in  which  the  unfortu- 
nate man  was  lying,  it  was  evident  he  had  but  a few 
moments  to  live  : there  was  a glassy  wildness  in  his 
eye,  a slight  rattle  and  convulsive  throe  about  his  neck, 
which  too  plainly  denoted  that  his  sufferings  were  soon 
to  terminate.  At  such  a time  as  this  it  would  hardly 
seem  credible  that  one  could  be  found,  clothed  in  the 
outward  semblance  of  humanity,  fiendish  enough  to  in- 
fiict  farther  pain  and  anguish  upon  his  fellow-being : yet 
such  was  the  fact,  and  a case  of  more  heartless  cruelty 
up  to  this  time  probably  stands  not  on  record. 

Gates  retained  his  senses,  and  had  just  asked  one  of 
his  comrades,  in  weak  and  broken  accents,  for  a cup  ot 
water.  He  had  scarcely  swallowed  it  ere  a young 
Mexican,  who  went  by  the  name  of  Ramon,  took  up  an 
empty  musket  standing  by  the  wagon,  and  after  wan- 
tonly pointing  it  directly  in  the  face  of  the  dying  man, 
snapped  it ! The  latter,  unconscious  whether  the  mus- 
ket was  loaded  or  not,  raised  his  hands  convulsively  to 
his  face  and  shrunk  instinctively  back.  The  wretch, 
apparently  enjoying  the  torture  he  was  thus  indicting, 
again  pointed  and  snapped  the  gun.  This  was  too 
much  for  one  who  was  already  wrestling  with  death. 
He  gave  one  shudder,  his  limbs  relaxed,  and  all  was 
over ! He  was  instantly  dragged  from  the  wagon  by 
our  merciless  guard,  his  ears  were  cut  off  by  order  of 
Salezar,  and  the  body  was  thrown  by  the  roadside 

“ a stiffen’d  corse, 

Stretch’d  out  and  bleaching  in  the  northern  blast !” 

On  the  morning  succeeding  this  revolting  act  of 


ARRIVAL  AT  EL  PASO, 


25 


cruelty,  which  was  the  5th  of  November,  we  started 
upon  our  last  march  under  the  detestable  Salezar.  Two 
or  three  miles  above  El  Paso,  and  immediately  on  the 
eastern  base  of  the  ridge  of  mountains,  we  were  obliged 
to  ford  the  Rio  Grande  at  a fall.  The  river  was  waist, 
and  in  some  places  even  chin  deep,  the  bottom  uneven 
and  rocky,  while  the  cold  current  of  water  ran  with 
such  force  that  we  were  obliged  to  hold  each  other  by 
the  hand  in  strings  to  prevent  being  washed  down  the 
stream  and  drowned.  Chilled  completely  through,  and 
with  feet  cut  and  bruised  by  the  sharp  and  jagged  rocks, 
we  were  finally  fortunate  in  making  the  passage,  the 
rear-guard  upon  their  mules  and  horses  whipping  and 
swearing  at  the  lame  and  weak  stragglers  of  our  party 
who  scarcely  had  strength  to  buffet  with  the  swift-run- 
ning stream. 

Once  safely  across,  we  were  ordered  to  form  in  sec- 
tions of  four,  while  the  guard  paraded  in  regular  order 
on  either  side.  The  last  command  of  Salezar,  before 
galloping  forward  to  give  notice  of  our  arrival,  was  to 
shoot  the  Texans  who  should  leave  the  position  in  the 
ranks  assigned  them  ! In  this  order,  and  with  this  last 
threat  hanging  over  us,  we  were  marched  into  the 
beautiful  and  romantic  town  or  city  of  El  Paso. 

Our  feelings,  on  entering  this  town,  it  is  almost  im- 
possible to  describe.  On  the  route  from  San  Miguel  we 
had  been  regaled,  by  our  guard,  with  innumerable  tales 
of  the  ill-treatment  we  might  expect  on  reaching  the 
Pass,  and  also  with  speculations  as  to  our  ultimate  fate. 
Some  said  that  we  should  be  marched  by  the  nearest  road 
to  Matamoros,  and  thence  shipped  to  the  United  States 
or  Texas;  others, again,  gave  it  as  their  decided  opin- 
ion that  we  should  be  shot,  so  soon  as  orders  could  be 
received  from  Santa  Anna.  As  to  the  two  latter  opin- 
Vol.  II.— C 


26 


TOKENS  OF  BETTER  TREATMENT. 


ions,  we  gave  no  credit  to  either  of  them ; as  to  our 
being  treated  worse  by  the  inhabitants  of  the  lower 
country  than  we  had  been  by  the  New  Mexicans,  that 
we  knew  could  not  be,  as  Salezar  had  taxed  his  inge- 
nuity to  the  utmost  in  devising  means  to  harass  and  tor- 
ture us.  Still,  our  feelings  were  sensitively  alive  as  the 
time  rapidly  approached  when  we  were  to  be  placed 
under  new  masters,  and  our  minds  unusually  active  in 
speculations  upon  our  future  lot. 

As  we  turned  the  corner  of  a street  leading  into  the 
principal  plaza,  we  saw  one  of  our  companions,  who  had 
left  San  Miguel  the  morning  before  us,  standing  upon  a 
distant  housetop.  Another  turn,  and  Doctor  Whittaker, 
with  two  or  three  Texan  officers,  was  seen  standing  by 
a small  bridge  thrown  across  one  of  the  irrigating  ca- 
nals which  traverse  this  pleasant  town  in  every  direc- 
tion. They  appeared  to  have  the  liberty  of  parole,  if 
nothing  more,  were  clean  shaved  and  neatly  enough 
dressed,  and  bore  every  appearance  of  having  fallen 
into  kinder  hands,  and  to  have  received  infinitely  better 
treatment  than  had  fallen  to  our  lot. 

In  a few  minutes  more,  in  presence  of  the  alcalde  and 
other  officers,  we  were  marched  into  a large  yard,  hav- 
ing rooms  on  every  side,  and  then,  after  being  counted, 
consigned  to  the  keeping  of  a new  guard.  Shrewd  and 
close  observers  of  physiognomy  had  we  all  become  by 
this  time — we  looked  at  the  countenances  of  those  who 
were  now  over  us,  and  a single  glance  sufficed  to  assure 
us  that  we  might  expect  better  treatment ; nor  were  we 
disappointed. 

In  two  hours  after  our  arrival,  and  without  the  most 
remote  expectation  of  any  such  good  fortune,  the  Tex- 
an prisoners  found  themselves,  in  squads  of  six  or  eight, 
billeted  about  at  the  different  houses  of  the  inhabitants, 


REST  FOR  THE  WEARY. 


27 


and  feasting  upon  the  best  the  place  afforded.  Well- 
cooked  meats,  eggs,  the  finest  bread,  and  in  many  cases 
even  the  wines  of  the  place  were  served  out  to  them,  and 
in  an  abundance  to  which  for  months  they  had  been 
strangers.  From  the  different  doors  and  windows  they 
could  see  small  knots  of  their  late  guard  passing  and  re- 
passing  ; and  with  the  recollection  of  their  recent  bru- 
tal treatment  fresh  within  them,  they  did,  in  the  fulness 
of  their  hearts,  heap  upon  their  former  insolent  and  over- 
bearing, but  now  craven  and  powerless  enemies,  all 
the  Spanish  terms  of  indignity  and  reproach  they  had 
learned  while  in  their  company,  mixed  with  good  hearty 
curses  in  the  vernacular  whenever  they  ran  out  of  for- 
eign objurgations. 

In  the  mean  time,  Falconer,  Van  Ness,  and  myself 
were  taken  to  the  house  of  the  commandant  of  this 
military  department,  Don  J.  M.  Elias  Gonzalez,  or,  as 
he  was  generally  termed,  General  Elias,  a well-bred, 
liberal,  and  gentlemanly  officer.  No  sooner  had  he 
been  made  acquainted  with  the  conduct  of  Salezar, 
than  he  expressed  great  indignation  ; and  as  our  men 
had  suffered  so  much  from  want  of  food  and  excessive 
fatigue,  he  at  once  said  they  should  be  allowed  three 
days’  rest  to  recruit  and  strengthen. 

The  family  of  General  Elias  consisted  of  his  prima, 
or  first  cousin,  a portly,  handsome,  and  good-hearted 
lady,  some  forty  years  of  age,  who  attended  to  his 
household  affairs,  and  a wrell-educated  young  nephew, 
on  a visit  from  Sonora.  His  name  was  Don  Jesus,* 
and  to  him  we  were  all  under  obligations  for  repeated 
acts  of  kindness  and  attention.  Captain  Francisco 
Ochoa,  said  to  have  been  an  aid-de-camp  of  the  Em- 

No  relation  to  our  old  acquaintance  of  New  Mexican  memory,  but  a dif 
ferent  personage  altogether. 


28 


A CONTRAST. 


peror  Iturbide,  was  also  a guest  at  the  house — a good- 
humoured,  laughing,  and  dashing  officer  of  some  forty 
years  of  age,  although  at  first  view  he  seemed  much 
younger.  Ochoa  was  frank  and  soldierlike  in  his  bear- 
ing, expressed  the  greatest  abhorrence  of  Salezar  and 
his  herd  of  ladrones  and  picaros*  as  he  called  them, 
and  in  travelling  with  us  some  five  or  six  hundred  miles, 
ever  proved  himself  a friend  and  a gentleman. 

About  five  o’clock  in  the  afternoon  a servant  brought 
us  in  cakes  and  chocolate,  the  latter  of  the  richest  qual- 
ity and  most  delicious  flavour.  At  eight  o’clock  Gen- 
eral McLeod  and  Mr.  Navarro,  who  took  all  their  meals 
with  our  generous  host,  arrived,  when  we  immediately 
sat  down  to  a well-arranged  and  sumptuous  supper. 
It  was  the  first  table  We  had  seen  for  five  months — so 
with  the  chairs.  What  a contrast ! On  that  very 
morning,  and  within  twenty  yards  of  the  spot  where 
the  body  of  the  unfortunate  Gates  was  lying,  Falconer, 
Van  Ness,  and  myself  had  hastily  swallowed  a meal 
of  badly-made  mush,  upon  the  ground,  our  minds  full 
of  misgivings  as  to  the  treatment  we  might  receive  on 
getting  out  of  the  hands  of  Salezar — now  we  were 
seated  at  a table  covered  with  luxuries,  the  guests  of 
a gentleman  attentive  to  our  every  want.  Even  the  fact 
that  we  were  still  prisoners  was  forgotten. 

As  the  mind  of  the  reader  wanders  back  through 
the  gloomy  vista  of  the  preceding  five  months,  it  will 
find  but  few  bright  spots  for  the  memory  to  linger  upon. 
During  that  time  we  had  been  living  “ out  of  doors” — 
the  ground,  whether  wet  or  dry,  warm  or  cold,  our  only 
bed — the  sky,  whether  blue  or  black,  clear  or  cloudy, 
our  only  canopy.  For  weeks,  I might  almost  say 

* Loafers,  scoundrels,  thieves — the  terms  mean  anything  and  everything 
opprobrious. 


SUMPTUOUS  FARE. 


2& 

months,  previous  to  our  capture,  we  had  lived  upon  an 
allowance  which  barely  saved  us  from  starvation,  and 
even  this  small  pittance  of  food  was  more  fitting  the 
mouths  of  prairie  wolves  than  human  beings.  After 
our  capture,  in  addition  to  the  cruel  insults  and  indigni- 
ties that  were  heaped  upon  us,  we  were  fed  and  driven 
along  our  involuntary  pilgrimage  under  treatment  that 
would  have  claimed  the  intervention  of  civil  laws  if  in- 
flicted upon  droves  of  cattle,  sheep,  or  hogs  in  a civil- 
ized land.  Let  the  reader  recollect  these  facts,  and  he 
will  not  marvel  that  our  hearts  were  now  rejoiced  with- 
in us,  prisoners  though  we  were,  on  once  more  finding 
ourselves  in  the  midst  of  plenty  and  treated  as  men. 
But  our  supper  is  getting  cold,  and  as  it  is  the  first  we 
have  had  for  nearly  half  a year,  we  must  commence 
upon  it. 

It  consisted  of  a variety  of  dishes,  all  well  cooked, 
and,  but  that  some  of  them  may  have  been  seasoned 
rather  too  highly  with  red  pepper,  garlic,  or  onions  for 
Anglo-Saxon  tastes,  all  extremely  palatable.  And  here 
were  veritable  chairs,  knives  and  forks,  plates,  tumblers, 
and  the  many  appurtenances  of  a supper-table — we  had 
not  entirely  forgotten  their  uses,  as  the  cook  of  our 
kind  host  could  testify.  The  vino  del  pais,  or  wine  of 
the  country,  too,  was  placed  before  us,  of  a quality  far 
from  inferior,  and  in  the  greatest  profusion.  The  in- 
habitants of  El  Paso,  or  many  of  them,  drink  it  from 
tumblers  of  the  largest  size,  and  in  quantities  which 
would  startle  a Frenchman  over  his  claret,  or  a New- 
England  farmer  over  his  cider — I have  reference,  in 
speaking  of  the  latter,  to  times  before  the  establishment 
of  temperance  societies  and  root  beer  associations. 
Supper  over,  some  two  hours  were  spent  in  smoking 
and  conversation,  when  we  retired  to  bed. 

C 2 


30 


AN  UNWONTED  LUXURY. 


Here  was  another  comfort  which  for  months  we  had 
not  enjoyed — had  almost  forgotten — and  for  a long 
time  we  could  not  close  our  eyes  in  sleep,  so  novel  was 
the  luxury.  We  were  under  a roof.  Our  beds  were 
of  the  very  best — sheets  as  white  as  the  driven  snow, 
and  pillow-cases  neatly  fringed  and  of  the  finest  linen. 
We  kicked,  tossed,  and  rolled  about  for  hours ; and  our 
various  antics,  some  of  them  ludicrous  enough,  might  be 
likened  to  the  feats  of  tumblers  in  a ring.  Sleep  finally 
overtook  us,  nor  was  it  broken  until  a little  before  sun- 
rise, when  a neat  and  pretty  girl  brought  us  in  cakes 
and  chocolate.  Without  his  chocolate  in  the  morning, 
the  Mexican  gentleman  would  be  miserable  all  day. 

After  partaking  of  our  chocolate,  we  arose  refreshed 
and  invigorated,  and  with  feelings  very  different  from 
those  of  the  previous  morning.  At  nine  o’clock  we  had 
breakfast,  consisting  of  some  five  or  six  courses,  with 
wine,  but  no  coffee.  At  two  dinner  was  served,  late  in 
the  afternoon  we  again  had  chocolate  and  cakes,  and  at 
eight  o’clock  supper.  I have  been  thus  particular  in 
giving  the  number  and  order  of  our  meals  to  show 
the  difference  between  the  customs  there  and  in  this 
country. 

Although  meats  may  be  seen  in  profusion,  at  both 
breakfast  and  supper,  on  the  table  of  the  Mexican  gen 
tleman  in  the  northern  and  middle  departments  of  the 
Republic,  the  principal  and  most  substantial  meal,  as 
with  us,  is  the  dinner.  The  meal  generally  commences 
with  mutton  soup  or  broth — then  comes  a dish  of  boiled 
mutton,  frequently  followed  by  a stew  of  the  same  meat. 
A favourite  dish  with  the  Mexicans  in  the  State  of  Chi- 
huahua is  made  of  the  blood  of  sheep,  fried  and  season- 
ed, which  is  very  palatable.  Chickens  and  eggs,  cook- 
ed in  different  wavs,  but  the  former  never  roasted  as 


MEXICAN  SMOKERS. 


31 


wrth  us,  make  their  appearance  during  the  meal.  A 
standing  article  is  the  chile  guisado,  mention  of  which 
I have  already  made  in  a former  chapter.  Frijoles* 
a species  of  dark  beans  of  large  size,  stewed  or  fried  in 
mutton  fat  and  not  too  highly  seasoned,  wind  up  the 
substantial  part  of  a dinner,  breakfast,  or  supper,  and 
seldom  is  this  favourite  and  national  dish  omitted.  In 
fact,  frijoles,  especially  to  the  lower  order  of  Mexicans, 
are  what  potatoes  are  to  the  Irish — they  can  live  very 
well  so  long  as  they  have  them  in  abundance,  and  are 
lost  without  them.  A failure  of  the  bean  crop  in  Mex- 
ico would  be  looked  upon  as  a national  calamity. 

Among  the  higher  order  of  Mexicans  the  dinner  fin- 
ishes with  fruits,  dulces  or  sweetmeats,  and  the  never- 
failing  paper  or  shuck  cigar.  In  the  southern  depart- 
ment these  cigars  are  manufactured  of  tobacco,  neatly 
rolled  in  paper,  put  up  in  bunches,  and  then  sold  at  a 
low  price  ; but  in  the  States  of  Chihuahua,  Sonora,  and 
New  Mexico,  and  more  particularly  the  latter,  every 
man  is  provided  with  a small  pouch  of  punche,  a spe- 
cies of  plant  somewhat  resembling  tobacco,  for  the  cul- 
tivation of  the  latter  is  specially  prohibited  except  in 
some  of  the  southern  departments.  In  another  pouch 
or  case  he  carries  a parcel  of  corn  husks,  and  a flint  and 
steel.  With  these  materials  he  makes  his  cigarrito, 
strikes  a fire,  and  smokes  almost  incessantly.  Women 
and  men  are  alike  addicted  to  the  practice,  and  the  pret- 
tiest sehora  in  the  land  can  be  seen  at  almost  any  time 
with  a cigarrito  in  her  mouth,  the  smoke  puffing  from 
her  nose  in  two  straight  volumes,  somewhat  resembling 
the  escape  pipes  of  a double-engine  steamer  on  a small 
scale.  It  may  be  thought  singular,  however,  that  the 

* Pronounced  freeholeys  by  the  Mexicans.  From  the  similarity  in  the  pro- 
nunciation, our  men  always  called  them  freeholders. 


32 


SALEZAR  IN  TROUBLE. 


children  of  either  sex  are  not  addicted  to  smoking.  It 
appears  to  be  a habit  taken  up  after  the  person  has  at- 
tained full  growth,  and  when  once  contracted  is  never 
abandoned. 

On  the  afternoon  after  our  arrival  at  El  Paso,  and 
while  we  were  drinking  wine  and  partaking  of  a truly 
sumptuous  dinner  at  the  table  of  the  commandante,  the 
notorious  Salezar  entered  the  room,  the  object  of  his 
visit  being  to  render  an  account  of  his  stewardship  in 
relation  to  the  Texan  prisoners...  He  appeared  struck 
with  mute  astonishment,  as  his  eye  glanced  in  the  direc- 
tion of  our  table,  at  seeing  those  whom  he  had  so  re- 
cently treated  like  brutes  now  in  such  excellent  quar- 
ters and  associating  with  an  officer  infinitely  above  him ; 
and  there  was  an  air  of  sneaking  and  cowardly  inqui- 
etude about  the  monster  as  he  opened  his  business  with 
General  Elias. 

He  began  by  saying  that  Governor  Armijo  had  in- 
trusted him  with  the  charge  of  guarding  a certain  num- 
ber of  men  from  San  Miguel  to  El  Paso ; that  he  had 
turned  over  the  whole  number  with  the  exception  of 
five,  who  had  unfortunately  died  upon  the  road ; and 
to  prove  that  they  had  really  died,  and  had  not  escaped, 
he  had  brought  their  ears,  at  the  same  time  throwing 
upon  the  table  five  pairs  of  them  which  he  had  strung 
upon  a strip  of  buckskin  ! General  Elias  at  once  told 
him  that  he  had  murdered,  basely  murdered,  three  of 
these  men.  The  miscreant  denied  this  charge,  at  the 
same  time  turning  a black  look  in  the  direction  where 
we  were  quietly  smoking.  He  said  that  he  was  a brave 
man,  and  that  when  he  was  in  the  advance  his  master, 
Armijo,  could  always  sleep  in  quiet  and  security.  The 
commandante  coolly  told  him  that  the  business  before 
them  had  nothing  to  do  with  his  personal  prowess  and 


SALEZAR  ARRESTED. 


33 


bravery,  or  with  the  estimation  in  which  Armijo  held 
him  ; they  were  talking  of  three  men  whom  he  had 
cruelly  put  to  death  for  no  crime.  Salezar,  finding  that 
his  superior  officer  had  abundant  proof  of  the  facts, 
made  no  farther  denial ; but  he  turned  upon  Van  Ness 
a look  of  bitter  hatred,  for  he  had  treated  him  with  so 
much  kindness  and  consideration  upon  the  road  that  he 
supposed  in  him,  at  least,  he  would  find  a defender. 
Van  Ness  had  very  properly  informed  General  Elias 
of  every  circumstance  that  had  occurred  upon  the  road, 
and  the  cunning  Salezar,  now  seeing  that  he  had  no 
one  to  defend  him,  made  no  farther  denials. 

The  commandante  next  told  Salezar  that  there  were 
sixteen  head  of  cattle,  honestly  belonging  to  the  Texan 
prisoners,  which  had  been  left  some  thirty  or  forty 
miles  back  upon  the  road.  This  was  a thunderbolt  to 
the  scoundrel,  for  he  had  fondly  hoped  to  secure  these 
cattle  as  his  own  plunder.  With  a twitch  of  the  shoul- 
ders he  began  to  stammer  forth  some  excuse  or  denial ; 
but  he  was  cut  short  by  General  Elias,  who  all  the 
while  preserved  his  temper,  with  the  remark  that  there 
were  also  a number  of  horses  and  mules  left  at  the 
same  camp,  which  he  had  strong  reasons  to  believe 
w'ere  the  property  of  some  of  the  citizens  of  El  Paso. 
At  all  events  they  must  be  immediately  sent  for — cat- 
tle, horses,  and  all — and  until  they  were  all  brought  in, 
and  their  brands  and  marks  examined,  Captain  Dimasio 
Salezar  must  consider  himself  under  arrest.  The  scoun- 
drel gave  us  another  scowl  of  mingled  hatred  and  re- 
venge at  the  conclusion  of  this  interview,  and  then 
skulked  from  the  room,  an  abject,  pitiful  wretch. 


34 


AN  ESTIMABLE  PRIEST. 


CHAPTER  II. 

Ramon  Ortiz,  the  young  Cura  of  El  Paso. — His  Benevolence. — A pleasant 
Ride  with  the  Cura.  — Description  of  El  Paso.  — Its  irrigating  Canals, 
Streets,  and  Fruits. — Residence  of  Ortiz. — Farther  Acts  of  his  Kindness. 
— A comfortable  Change  of  Linen.— An  Opportunity  to  vex  Salezar  im- 
proved.— Last  Encounter  with  that  Miscreant. — Arrival  of  a Courier  from 
Mexico.  — Departure  from  El  Paso.  — Hospitality  of  the  Inhabitants. — 
Parting  with  Ortiz. — Inquiries  respecting  General  Pike. — A Camp  with- 
out Water. — Ochoa’s  Attention  to  our  Wants. — Description  of  our  Escort 
and  Procession.— Mexican  Carts  and  Mexican  Character.— Opposition  of 
the  Inhabitants  to  Improvements. — Another  dry  Camp. — Arrival  at  the 
“ Diamond  of  the  Desert,”  a noted  Spring. — A Rest. — Difficult  Passage  of 
the  Sand  Mountains. — Appearance  of  the  Country. — A travelling  Stone  : 
its  strange  History. — Superstitions  of  the  Mexicans. — The  “Well  of  the 
Star.” — Poor  and  sandy  Country. — Appearance  of  the  Texan  Prisoners. 
— Strange  Variety  of  Costume. — Laughing  at  Misery. 

Among  the  daily  visiters  at  the  house  of  General 
Elias  was  the  young  and  generous  cura  of  El  Paso, 
Ramon  Ortiz,  to  whom  I was  particularly  indebted  for 
many  attentions,  and  whose  acts  of  disinterested  kind- 
ness to  all  the  prisoners  it  is  impossible  to  forget.  The 
young  priest  could  not  be  more  than  twenty-five  years 
of  age,  and  was  of  a mild  and  benevolent  countenance 
— in  short,  there  was  an  open  and  ingenuous  expression 
in  his  really  handsome  face  that  at  once  endeared  him 
to  every  one.  For  some  cause  or  other  he  was  unre- 
mitting in  his  attentions  to  me,  continually  seeking  op- 
portunities to  do  some  delicate  act  of  kindness,  which, 
by  the  manner  of  its  bestowal,  showed  that  he  possess- 
ed all  the  more  refined  feelings  of  our  nature. 

On  one  occasion  he  asked  me  if  I would  not  be 
pleased  to  see  the  town  and  visit  him  at  his  residence, 
some  mile  or  two  distant  from  the  house  of  General 
Elias.  On  my  accepting  his  invitation,  he  sent  a ser- 


AN  AGREEABLE  VISIT. 


35 


vant  for  one  of  his  horses  for  my  use.  The  servant 
soon  returned  with  a noble  animal,  richly  caparisoned, 
and  the  young  cura  mounting  his  mule,  we  rode  over 
the  beautiful  town. 

The  situation  of  El  Paso  is  delightful.  Seated  in  a 
beautiful  and  fertile  valley,  a circle  of  mountains  on  its 
northern  and  western  sides  break  off  and  neutralize  the 
cold  winds  which  sweep  from  the  snowy  summits  in 
the  region  of  Santa  Fe.  The  thoroughfares  of  the 
town  are  for  the  most  part  wide  and  airy,  and  on  either 
side  runs  a cool  and  rippling  stream  of  transparent  wa- 
ter, brought  from  the  Rio  Grande  by  means  of  irriga 
ting  canals,  so  that  it  can  at  any  time  be  turned  upon 
the  vineyards  or  grain-fields  when  the  land  requires  it. 
These  delicious  streams  are  shaded  by  rows  of  large, 
overarching  trees,  planted  with  great  regularity,  while 
the  plain  but  neat  dwellings  of  the  inhabitants  are,  many 
of  them,  built  among  clusters  of  apple  and  other  fruit- 
trees.  The  cultivation  of  the  vine,  with  the  manufac- 
ture of  wine  and  raisins,  appears  to  be  a source  of 
no  inconsiderable  profit  to  the  inhabitants,  who,  take 
them  as  a body,  are  more  honest,  industrious,  cleanly, 
and  better  disposed  towards  foreigners  than  those  of 
any  town  of  equal  size  I passed  through  in  my  long 
journey. 

Arrived  at  the  residence  of  my  kind  friend,  a neat 
dwelling  surrounded  by  fruit-trees  and  vines,  he  called 
a servant  to  take  charge  of  the  animals,  and  at  once  led 
the  way  to  the  interior.  Here  I found  Captain  Cald- 
well and  a number  of  our  officers,  comfortably  enjoying 
the  hospitalities  of  the  young  priest,  and  loud  in  their 
praises  of  his  kind  attentions  and  exceeding  liberality : 
for  they  had  all  been  provided  with  neat  and  clean  cloth- 
ing by  their  charitable  entertainer. 


36 


RARE  GENEROSITY. 


To  myself  he  was  even  more  unremitting  in  his  offi- 
ces of  attention  and  kindness.  He  asked  me  to  write 
my  name,  and  then  give  the  correct  pronunciation  of  it, 
after  which  he  gave  me  his  own  on  a strip  of  paper. 
Fortunately  for  me,  when  first  captured  I had  been  able 
to  secrete  a valuable  gold  pen,  neatly  encased  in  silver, 
which  also  served  as  a handle,  and  this  I at  once  pre- 
sented to  the  cura.  He  at  first  was  reluctant  to  accept 
the  pen,  fearing  that  I might  be  in  want  of  it,  but  on  be- 
ing assured  that  it  was  of  no  real  service  to  me,  he  re- 
ceived it  with  new  protestations  of  friendship. 

During  a visit  of  some  two  hours,  young  Ortiz  ap- 
peared to  be  studying  my  every  want.  In  addition  to 
an  excellent  dinner,  with  wine  of  his  own  making,  which 
he  gave  me,  he  invited  me  into  his  private  study,  where 
a bath  was  provided.  Hardly  had  I partaken  of  this 
luxury,  before  a girl  brought  me  clean  flannel  and  linen 
throughout — and  when  I say  that  for  the  previous  seven 
weeks  I had  had  no  change  of  clothing,  and  that  the 
vermin  which  infest  the  lower  orders  of  Mexico  had  ta- 
ken forcible  possession  of  all  my  ragged  and  dirty  vest- 
ments, the  luxury  of  once  more  arraying  myself  in 
clean  linen  will  be  appreciated.  But  the  liberality  of 
Ortiz  did  not  stop  here,  for,  notwithstanding  I told  him 
I had  a sufficiency,  and  obstinately  refused  taking  it  until 
farther  resistance  would  have  been  rude  and  almost  in- 
sulting, he  still  pressed  a sum  of  money  into  my  hands. 
It  was  carefully  wrapped  in  paper,  and  the  amount  I did 
not  at  the  time  know.  From  its  weight  I knew,  how- 
ever, that  it  was  specie,  and  hence  my  extreme  reluc- 
tance to  receive  it  at  his  hands.  He  may  have  thought 
it  an  imperative  duty  thus  to  press  it  upon  my  accept- 
ance, in  order  to  cancel  the  obligation  he  evidently  con- 
sidered himself  under  for  the  pen  I had  presented  him. 


AVARICE  ITS  OWN  PUNISHMENT. 


37 


Towards  sunset,  the  cura  having  ordered  the  same 
horse  to  be  again  saddled  for  me,  we  left  his  quiet  and 
hospitable  mansion  for  the  residence  of  General  Elias ; 
and  if  I before  had  reason  to  thank  Ortiz  for  his  kind- 
ness, I soon  had  still  greater  cause  of  gratitude  for  the 
opportunity  he  gave  me,  although  unintentional  on  his 
part,  of  repaying,  with  interest,  the  many  instalments  of 
indignity  and  abuse  I had  received  at  the  hands  of  Sa- 
lezar — in  short,  of  making  this  latter  person  completely 
and  perfectly  unhappy. 

Prominent  among  the  vicious  traits  of  Salezar  was 
his  insatiable  avarice.  In  the  leather  panniers  which 
contained  my  clothing,  when  we  were  taken  prisoners, 
he  found  three  or  four  pairs  of  heavily-gilt  spurs,  arti- 
cles which  I had  purchased  in  New-Orleans  as  presents 
to  such  Mexicans  as  might  show  me  attentions  on  my 
journey  through  that  country.  These  spurs  he  had  sold 
for  a mere  song,  as  they  were  of  a pattern  different  from 
those  used  in  New  Mexico,  and  as  he  suppposed  their 
real  value  trifling.  A telescope  which  he  had  taken 
from  Mr.  Falconer,  and  which  was  an  instrument  of 
great  value,  he  had  parted  with  for  a few  dollars — not 
one  tenth,  perhaps,  of  its  first  cost. 

On  the  road  from  San  Miguel  he  had  spoken  of  these 
articles  to  one  of  my  comrades,  and  mentioned  the  prices 
he  had  received  for  them.  Out  of  pure  hatred  to  the 
wretch,  and  from  a desire  to  vex  and  goad  him,  my 
friend  expressed  great  surprise  that  Salezar  had  parted 
with  them,  and  more  especially  the  spurs,  at  such  a sac- 
rifice— said  they  were  of  pure  gold  and  extremely  rich 
workmanship,  and  that  they  would  have  been  worth 
twenty  times  the  sum  he  received  for  them,  to  melt 
down. 

This  story  fretted  and  chafed  the  avaricious  wretch 

Vol.  II.— D 


38 


A PLOT. 


excessively.  He  ground  his  teeth  for  being  such  a fool, 
and  with  an  oath  promised  that  should  a similar  oppor- 
tunity to  plunder  offer  itself,  he  would  make  more  money 
out  of  it  than  he  had  done  in  the  present  instance.  In 
fact,  nothing  could  exceed  his  rage,  and  he  vented  deep 
imprecations  upon  himself  for  allowing  such  golden  op- 
portunities to  escape  with  comparatively  so  little  gain. 
So  much  by  way  of  episode — I will  now  relate  the  man- 
ner in  which  Ortiz  helped  me  to  punish  Salezar. 

While  at  the  cura’s  house  he  had  told  me  that  what- 
ever jewelry  I had  saved  I might  now  wear  or  expose 
openly,  as  there  was  no  farther  danger  of  my  being 
robbed — I was  now  out  of  the  hands  of  the  picaros  of 
New  Mexico,  and  would  find  officers  on  the  route  to 
the  capital  who  were  gentlemen,  and  who  would  not 
take  my  private  or  personal  property.  With  these  as- 
surances, and  to  show  that  I had  implicit  confidence  in 
his  words,  I immediately  displayed  about  my  person, 
rather  ostentatiously,  perhaps,  a valuable  breastpin,  to- 
gether with  the  gold  watch  and  chain  which  I had  kept 
hid  from  the  searching  eyes  of  the  greedy  Salezar. 

After  leaving  the  house  of  the  cura  we  rode  leisurely 
along  until  we  reached  the  principal  plaza,  taking  a dif- 
ferent route  from  that  which  we  had  travelled  in  the 
morning.  Almost  the  first  person  I saw,  on  entering 
the  plaza,  was  the  detestable  Salezar,  standing  in  front 
of  a small  tienda,  or  store,  and  conversing  with  some  of 
his  officers.  Here  was  an  opportunity  to  show  the  fel- 
low that  I had  outwitted  him,  and  I determined  that  it 
should  not  slip  by  unimproved.  Telling  Ortiz  that  I 
wished  to  purchase  a handkerchief,  or  some  trifling  ar- 
ticle, he  kindly  held  my  horse  while  I dismounted.  As 
I walked  directly  towards  the  little  knot  of  our  former 
oppressors  I placed  a hand  in  each  pocket  of  my  panta- 


REVENGE  ON  SALEZAR. 


39 


loons,  which  were  now  tolerably  well  filled  with  the 
doubloons  and  other  gold  pieces  I had  taken  from  the 
cakes  after  reaching  El  Paso.  Grasping  as  many  of 
them  as  I could  in  either  hand,  I let  them  drop  jingling 
to  the  bottom  of  my  pockets  wThen  within  five  yards  of 
Salezar,  and  so  that  he  could  plainly  hear  them.  The 
sound,  I am  confident,  entered  his  soul.  When  imme- 
diately in  front  of  the  avaricious  wretch  I gave  as  loud 
and  as  important  a “ hem ” as  I was  able,  and  then,  with 
a consequential  swagger,  and  as  much  ostentation  as  I 
could  assume,  drew  forth  my  gold  watch,  as  if  to  as- 
certain the  time.  I gave  the  fellow  one  glance  and  was 
satisfied.  His  face  was  a perfect  index  to  the  workings 
of  his  selfish  mind,  and  with  a pleasure,  malicious  per- 
haps, I watched  it.  That  he  would  not  close  his  eyes 
in  sleep  that  night  I felt  confident,  so  well  I knew  his 
nature.  No  punishment  I could  inflict  would  have  been 
so  severe.  That  black  scowl,  so  full  of  hatred,  avarice, 
and  all  the  worst  feelings  of  the  human  heart ! — to  me  it 
was  “ a receipt  in  full”  for  all  the  indignities  and  inju- 
ries I had  received  at  his  hands — that  look,  so  full  of 
rage,  baffled  desire,  and  unsated  avarice,  more  than  paid 
for  the  property  of  which  he  had  stripped  me,  and  the 
many  cruelties  he  had  inflicted  upon  myself  and  friends. 

After  this  last  and  most  gratifying  interview  with  Sa- 
lezar, for  I have  never  seen  him  since,  I remounted  my 
horse,  and  with  Ortiz  rode  to  my  quarters  at  the  house 
of  General  Elias.  I more  than  half  suspected  that  my 
young  friend  was  aware  of  my  object  in  thus  “ showing 
off”  before  Salezar ; but  not  a word  did  he  say. 

During  my  visit  to  the  house  of  the  cura,  a courier 
had  arrived  from  Mexico.  The  only  news  that  in  the 
least  interested  us  was  a mention  made  of  the  departure 
of  Colonel  Cooke  and  Dr.  Brenham,  with  the  first  party, 


40 


MORE  GENEROSITY. 


from  Chihuahua,  and  a report  that  they  had  been  weil 
treated  on  the  road. 

About  noon,  the  next  day,  we  took  our  departure  from 
El  Paso.  As  we  were  on  the  point  of  leaving  the  house 
of  General  Elias,  to  join  the  main  party,  the  servant  of 
young  Ortiz  arrived  with  a horse,  saddle,  and  bridle  for 
my  use  as  far  as  Chihuahua,  a distance  of  nearly  three 
hundred  miles.  Of  this  most  unexpected  charity  I had 
not  before  received  the  least  intimation  ; nor  did  the  lib- 
erality of  the  incomparable  cura  end  here.  He  order- 
ed his  domestics  to  bake  two  or  three  cart-loads  of  ex- 
cellent bread  for  the  use  of  the  prisoners  on  the  road, 
and  sent  his  own  teams  of  oxen  to  transport  it.  To 
those  who  were  most  in  need  he  gave  articles  of  com- 
fortable clothing,  and  imitating  the  charitable  example 
of  their  pastor,  the  citizens  were  very  liberal  in  their 
gifts.  Mrs.  Stevenson,  the  wife  of  an  American  mer- 
chant who  was  absent  at  the  time,  was  unceasing  in  her 
acts  of  kindness.  Although  a Mexican  by  birth,  and  not 
understanding  a word  of  our  language,  she  was  inde- 
fatigable in  her  exertions  to  procure  clothing,  provisions, 
and  necessaries  for  our  comfort  and  subsistence  on  the 
road. 

The  entire  population  of  El  Paso — men,  women,  and 
children — turned  out  to  see  us  off;  General  Elias  sent 
his  nephew,  the  young  Don  Jesus,  with  his  own  private 
carriage  for  the  accommodation  of  General  McLeod, 
and  Messrs.  Navarro,  Falconer,  and  Van  Ness,  as  far 
as  Chihuahua.  A very  gentlemanly  man,  Colonel  Mo- 
rales, provided  several  of  our  officers  with  mules  to  the 
same  city,  and  his  example  was  followed  by  others 
whose  names  I have  now  forgotten.  General  Elias 
himself,  accompanied  by  the  cura  and  several  of  the 
wealthier  and  more  respectable  inhabitants,  rode  some 


FAREWELL  TO  EL  PASO. 


41 


distance  with  us,  and  after  expressing  the  hope  that  we 
might  arrive  safely  at  the  city  of  Mexico  and  be  speed- 
ily liberated,  bade  us  an  affectionate  farewell.  Seldom 
have  I parted  from  a friend  with  more  real  regret  than 
with  Ortiz,  and  as  I shook  him  by  the  hand  for  the  last 
time,  and  bade  him,  perhaps,  an  eternal  adieu,  I thought 
if  ever  a noble  heart  beat  in  man  it  was  in  the  breast  of 
this  young,  generous,  and  liberal  priest.  Professing  a 
different  religion  from  mine,  and  one,  too,  that  I had 
been  taught  to  believe,  at  least  in  Mexico,  inculcated  a 
jealous  intolerance  towards  those  of  any  other  faith,  I 
could  expect  from  him  neither  favour  nor  regard.  How 
surprised  was  I,  then,  to  find  him  liberal  to  a fault,  con- 
stant in  his  attentions,  and  striving  to  make  my  situation 
as  agreeable  as  the  circumstances  would  admit.  I can 
never  hope  for  an  opportunity  to  repay  all  his  kindness 
to  me,  and  must  content  myself  with  this  simple  tribute 
to  his  worth.  His  charity  and  his  manly  virtues  adorn 
the  faith  which  he  professes  and  illustrates  by  his  life ; 
and  should  this  page  ever  meet  his  eye,  let  it  assure  him 
of  the  deep  respect  and  reverence  with  which  the  moral 
excellence  of  the  pious  cura  of  El  Paso  inspired  more 
than  one  Protestant  American. 

Almost  the  only  place  in  Mexico  I turned  my  back  upon 
with  anything  like  regret  was  the  lovely  town  or  city  of 
El  Paso.  Its  delightful  situation  in  a quiet  and  secluded 
valley,  its  rippling  artificial  brooks,  its  shady  streets,  its 
teeming  and  luxurious  vineyards,  its  dry,  pure  air  and 
mild  climate,  and,  above  all,  its  kind  and  hospitable  in- 
habitants, all  held  me  to  the  spot  by  their  endearing  ties. 
What  its  population  may  be  I have  not  the  means  of 
ascertaining,  neither  can  I give  the  extent  of  the  fertile 
valley  in  which  it  is  situated ; but  if  I may  be  allowed 
to  make  a rough  estimate,  I should  put  down  the  number 

D 2 


42 


CHARACTER  OF  THE  INHABITANTS. 


of  inhabitants  at  from  five  to  seven  thousand,  and  the 
settled  portions  of  the  valley  at  some  eight  or  ten  miles 
in  length  by  from  one  to  three  in  width.*  With  the 
single  exception  of  the  little  walled  town  of  Carazal, 
which  is  rapidly  depopulating,  there  is  scarcely  even  a 
rancho,  or  small  farm,  within  hundreds  of  miles  of  El 
Paso — Socorro  being  the  nearest  town  north,  while  the 
city  of  Chihuahua  is  the  first  settlement  as  the  traveller 
journeys  southward.  Far  removed  from  neighbours,  the 
rural  inhabitants  of  Paso  have  made  a garden,  an  oasis, 
as  it  were,  in  the  midst  of  a desert,  and  appear  to  have 
been  in  a great  measure  uncontaminated  by  association 
with  the  world  beyond.  We  here  found  several  fam- 
ilies of  Castilian  blood,  unmixed  with  even  a shade  of 
the  Indian — and  we  found  them  liberal,  gentlemanly, 
and  of  most  courteous  address,  although  born  on  the 
spot,  and  having  had  the  advantages  neither  of  travel 
nor  association.  Even  the  very  lowest  of  the  popula- 
tion— and  here  we  saw  little  of  that  squalid  poverty 
which  characterizes  almost  every  town  in  Mexico — 
even  the  poorest  of  the  inhabitants  treated  us  with  re- 
spect and  kindness,  insulting  neither  our  religion,  our 
country,  nor  our  unfortunate  position.  Sui-ely,  not  one 
of  the  Texan  prisoners  can  ever  think  of  El  Paso,  or  the 
dwellers  therein,  without  lively  gratitude. 

Our  first  day’s  march,  on  leaving  this  place,  was 
short,  bringing  us  to  the  last  well  or  spring  of  sweet 
water  we  were  to  find  before  reaching  a dry  and  sandy 
desert — in  fact,  we  were  obliged  to  travel  nearly  the 


* I have  never  seen  any  account  of  this  isolated  town  except  a mere  no- 
tice from  the  pen  of  General  Pike,  who  was  marched  through  it,  a prisoner, 
almost  forty  years  since.  Some  of  the  older  inhabitants  asked  us  several 
questions  in  relation  to  this  gallant  officer,  for  they  well  remembered  his  pas- 
sage through  their  town,  but  had  never  heard  of  his  death. 


A LARGE  CAVALCADE. 


43 


whole  of  the  two  succeeding  days  before  we  reached 
water.  The  road  from  El  Paso  to  Chihuahua  runs,  for 
the  greater  part  of  the  way,  through  a dry  and  barren 
region,  although  there  are  some  fertile  valleys  as  the 
traveller  approaches  the  latter  city  ; and  as  there  are  no 
settlements  or  houses  on  the  way,  we  were  again  com- 
pelled to  make  our  lodging  upon  the  ground.  But  as  I 
now  had  procured  an  extra  blanket,  the  cold  did  not 
prevent  me  from  sleeping,  as  was  the  case  in  New 
Mexico. 

Taking  advantage  of  the  large  escort  which  accom- 
panied the  prisoners,  the  inhabitants  of  El  Paso  sent 
their  fall  crop  of  fruits  and  other  products  under  its  con- 
voy. These  commodities  consisted,  for  the  most  part, 
of  apples,  raisins,  pears,  onions,  and  no  inconsiderable 
quantity  of  wine  and  Paso  brandy,  all  of  which  find  a 
ready  market  at  Chihuahua : in  return,  the  owners  take 
back  sugar,  chocolate,  paper  cigars,  and  also  their  Eng- 
lish and  fancy  goods.  Their  reason  for  accompanying 
us  was  the  protection  they  supposed  our  guard  afforded 
against  the  much-dreaded  Apaches,  who  are  ever  on 
the  look-out  from  the  mountains,  ready  to  pounce  upon 
any  travellers  seen  upon  this  route.  So  numerous  was 
the  company  that  now  availed  itself  of  our  escort,  that 
the  road,  for  a long  distance,  was  tilled  with  pack  mules 
and  Mexican  carts.  A more  miscellaneous  procession, 
take  it  altogether,  has  probably  never  been  seen  since 
the  days  of  Peter  the  Hermit.  The  exact  number  I 
did  not  take  the  trouble  to  ascertain ; but  including 
prisoners,  guards,  traders,  muleteers,  drivers,  servants, 
and  camp-followers  in  the  shape  of  women  and  chil- 
dren, there  could  not  be  much  less  than  a thousand,  and 
in  the  order  in  which  we  marched,  the  motley  crowd 
must  have  extended  more  than  a mile.  The  dress  of 


44 


MEXICAN  CARTS. 


our  guard,  which  was  for  the  most  part  composed  of 
the  militia  of  El  Paso,  differed  but  little  from  that  of  the 
same  class  in  New  Mexico — ragged  and  motley,  and 
having  no  pretensions  to  uniformity.  They  were  bet- 
ter armed,  perhaps,  than  their  neighbours  under  Sale- 
zar,  having  a greater  number  of  carbines,  or  old  Span- 
ish muskets : yet  they  were  all  on  foot,  and  were  weak 
and  inefficient  in  every  way.  Many  of  them  had  no 
shoes,  but  in  their  stead  they  wore  sandals  of  their  own 
make — rudely  manufactured,  and  affording  little  protec- 
tion save  to  the  soles  of  their  feet.  The  leading  traits 
in  the  characters  of  these  men  appeared  to  be  much 
good-nature,  and  a disposition  to  treat  the  prisoners 
with  the  utmost  leniency — points  in  which  they  differed 
materially  from  the  savage  brutes  who  dwell  north  of 
them. 

I have  several  times  spoken  of  Mexican  carts — a 
more  rude  contrivance,  take  it  all  in  all,  can  scarcely 
be  conceived.  If  in  this  country  of  locomotives,  rail- 
road cars,  and  well-built  stage-coaches,  the  searcher  after 
antiquarian  relics  and  curiosities  should,  by  any  chance, 
meet  with  a Mexican  cart,  he  would  look  upon  it  as  the 
first,  the  original-  attempt  of  man  to  construct  a kind 
of  wheel-carriage.  Neither  iron  nor  steel,  paint  nor 
polish,  spoke-shave  nor  plane,  is  used  in  it's  fabrica- 
tion— but  give  a Mexican  a sufficiency  of  brittle  cotton- 
wood and  raw-hide,  and  he  has  the  materials  ; give  him 
but  one  of  his  own  clumsy  and  ill-contrived  axes  and  an 
auger,  and  he  has  all  the  tools  he  wants  wherewith  to 
furnish  a cart.  Out  of  the  first  cutting  of  a cotton- wood 
he  hews  an  oblong  block,  through  the  centre  of  which 
he  bores  and  burns  a hole  for  the  axletree ; he  next 
digs,  you  cannot  say  cuts,  two  pieces  from  the  same 
tree,  forming  them  into  segments  of  a circle,  which  he 


RUDE  HUSBANDRY. 


45 


pins  to  the  sides  of  the  aforesaid  oblong  mass  by  means 
of  long,  wooden  pegs.  The  wheel  is  now  finished. 
Should  it  not  happen  to  be  round,  it  is  of  little  conse- 
quence— it  is  near  enough  that  shape  for  all  Mexican 
purposes.  From  the  same  wood  he  next  cuts  his  axle- 
tree  and  the  body  of  his  cart,  the  latter  fastened  togeth- 
er by  raw-hide.  Then  comes  the  tongue,  also  dug  from 
the  same  source  whence  came  the  wheels,  and  the  ve- 
hicle is  finished.  When  in  motion,  the  wheels  stagger, 
wabble  and  wander  about,  apparently  in  every  direc- 
tion but  the  right  one,  and  as  they  slowly  revolve  upon 
their  axletrees,  the  want  of  friendly  grease  is  made 
painfully  manifest  by  the  most  distressing  groans  and 
screeches — excruciating  noises  which  can  be  heard  for 
miles.  Should  his  journey  be  of  but  one  or  two  days’ 
duration,  the  driver  only  carries  one  or  two  extra  axle- 
trees  to  guard  against  breakages ; if  he  is  to  be  absent 
a week,  one  half  of  his  load  consists  of  those  indispen- 
sables,  else  he  never  gets  to  his  journey’s  end.  With 
all  his  precautions,  however,  he  frequently  meets  with 
break-downs  for  which  there  is  no  l'emedy ; and  were 
not  the  wrecks  instantly  seized  by  the  next  passer  for 
firewood,  the  principal  roads  in  the  northern  depart- 
ments of  Mexico,  on  either  side,  would  long  since  have 
been  fenced  with  broken-down  carts. 

And  then  it  would  fairly  drive  the  substantial  Amer- 
ican farmer  distracted,  to  see  the  manner  in  which  the 
Mexican  oxen  are  compelled  to  draw  these  carts.  They 
are  not  yoked  and  allowed  the  full  use  and  strength  of 
their  shoulders  and  chests,  but  a straight  piece  of  tim- 
ber is  placed  directly  on  their  heads  behind  the  horns, 
and  this  is  tied  to  the  latter  with  raw-hide.  Another 
piece  of  raw-hide  is  next  made  fast  around  the  centre 
of  the  stick,  and  this,  in  turn,  is  tied  to  the  tongue  of 


46 


MEXICAN  INDOCILITY. 


the  cart  or  to  the  next  pair  of  unfortunate  oxen.  In 
this  way,  four,  five,  and  even  six  pairs  of  cattle  are  fre- 
quently seen  pushing,  as  it  were,  not  drawing,  a cart 
along,  while  a single  yoke  of  oxen  in  the  United  States 
could  do  the  same  work  with  all  ease.  Yet  nothing 
could  convince  the  Mexicans  that  their  mode  is  not  the 
best.  Their  forefathers,  five  generations  back,  adopt- 
ed this  system,  and  their  rule  is  never  to  alter.  So 
with  their  long,  heavy,  clumsy  ploughs  ; three  times 
the  space  of  ground  might  be  ploughed  with  one  of  the 
modern  improvement,  yet  they  will  suffer  no  innova- 
tion. Their  axes,  with  long,  straight  handles,  would  be 
small  hoes  were  the  blades  turned  round  after  the  man- 
ner of  those  implements : while  the  Mexican  is  pecking 
away  at  a tree,  in  process  of  felling  it,  the  American 
would  cut  down,  chop,  and  split  one  of  the  same  size 
into  cord-wood,  and  very  likely  have  time  to  pile  it — 
yet  the  patient  Mexican  pecks  away,  regardless  of  la- 
bour and  time  so  that  his  object  is  eventually  attained. 
Strange,  that  with  a country  as  fair  as  any  upon  the 
face  of  the  earth,  abounding  in  every  species  of  soil, 
climate,  fruit,  and  mineral,  the  Mexicans  will  not 
profit  by  the  lessons,  and  adopt  the  systems  of  their 
Saxon  neighbours.  They  pertinaciously  cling  to  the 
customs  of  their  forefathers,  and  are  becoming  every 
year  more  and  more  impoverished — in  short,  they  are 
morally,  physically,  and  intellectually  distanced  in  the 
great  race  of  improvement  which  is  run  in  almost  every 
other  quarter  of  the  earth.  Give  them  but  tortillas, 
frijoles,  and  chile  Colorado  to  supply  their  animal  wants 
for  the  day,  and  seven  tenths  of  the  Mexicans  are  sat- 
isfied ; and  so  they  will  continue  to  be  until  the  race 
becomes  extinct  or  amalgamated  with  Anglo-Saxon 
stock ; for  no  political  change,  no  revolution,  can  up- 


DIAMOND  OF  THE  DESERT. 


47 


root  that  inherent  indolence  and  antipathy  to  change 
which  in  this  age  of  improvement  and  advancement 
must  sooner  or  later  work  their  ruin  and  downfall.  In 
these  wonder-working  days  of  steam,  to  stand  still  is  to 
retrograde.  But  I will  leave  speculation  and  return  to 
matter  of  fact. 

The  second  night  after  our  departure  from  El  Paso 
we  encamped  in  the  midst  of  an  arid  and  sandy  plain, 
without  water  and  with  but  scanty  picking  for  the  large 
cavallada  of  horses,  mules,  and  cattle.  To  remedy  any 
want  on  the  part  of  the  former,  however,  the  officer 
who  now  had  charge  of  us,  Captain  Ochoa,  had  provi- 
ded and  filled  several  large  casks  at  the  springs  and 
wells  we  left  in  the  morning.  A sufficiency  of  beef, 
bread,  and  salt  was  provided  for  the  men,  our  marches 
were  neither  so  long  nor  so  tiresome  as  while  under 
Salezar,  and  as  carts  had  been  provided  at  El  Paso  es- 
pecially for  such  as  might  be  sick  or  unable  to  travel, 
our  sufferings  were  now  comparatively  light. 

Towards  noon,  on  the  third  day,  we  arrived  at  a 
celebrated  water-hole,  called  the  Diamond  of  the  Des- 
ert.* Immediately  beyond  were  large  mountains  of 
loose  sand,  and  as  for  a distance  of  some  ten  miles  it 
was  impossible  to  drag  the  carts  over  without  doubling 
the  teams,  we  were  ordered  to  remain  behind  until  all 
had  made  the  passage.  These  sand  mountains  were 
plainly  visible  from  our  camp,  their  yellow  tops  entire- 
ly destitute  of  vegetation  of  any  kind,  and  presenting  an 
appearance  of  dreary  sterility. 

The  10th  of  November  we  spent  in  lying,  sleeping, 
or  walking  about  camp,  mending  our  tattered  clothing 

* The  Mexican  name  for  this  spring  is  “ Ojo  de  San  Malayuque.”  How 
it  came  by  the  title  of  the  Diamond  of  the  Desert  is  more  than  I can  say, 
but  so  it  was  called  by  our  men. 


48 


MOUNTAINS  OF  SAND. 


and  washing  such  articles  as  most  needed  an  introduc- 
tion to  the  turbid  spring  near  us.  This  Diamond  of 
the  Desert  was  by  no  means  of  the  fii'st  water,  the  dark 
and  sluggish  element  being  brackish  and  extremely  un- 
palatable ; but  as  it  is  the  only  spring,  if  it  can  be  dig- 
nified with  that  title,  in  any  direction  for  miles,  it  is  a 
general  stopping- pi  ace  for  all  travellers  between  El 
Paso  and  Chihuahua.  There  are  two  things  about  it 
which  render  it  invaluable — it  quenches  thirst  and  nev- 
er fails.  A thousand  men  with  horses  might  encamp 
around  it  for  a week,  so  we  were  told,  and  it  would 
bear  the  heavy  demand  upon  it  without  exhaustion. 
The  soil  is  exceedingly  poor  in  the  vicinity,  having  no- 
thing in  the  way  of  vegetation  except  a few  scattering 
thorns  and  dwarfish  prickly  pears.  From  El  Paso  the 
Rio  Grande  bears  off  to  the  southeast,  while  our  course 
was  nearly  south,  leaving  the  river  some  distance  to 
the  left. 

On  the  11th  of  November  our  march  was  resumed, 
our  l'oute  leading  directly  through  the  sand  mountains. 
Nearly  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  after  we  were 
fairly  among  them,  nothing  could  be  seen  but  immense 
piles  of  light,  yellow  sand,  not  a solitary  blade  of  grass 
relieving  the  prospect  in  any  direction.  The  horses 
sank  below  their  fetlocks  at  every  step,  and  both  men 
and  animals  were  completely  worn  out  with  fatigue  be- 
fore the  passage  was  made  across  the  dreary  Saharra. 
At  times  our  course — for  the  continual  changes  made 
by  the  winds  forbid  the  existence  of  any  permanent 
road — lay  along  the  sides  of  huge  piles  of  sand  ; then 
we  were  groping  our  way  through  dreary  ravines  at 
their  base,  and  the  next  half  hour  we  were  climbing 
steep  pyramids  which  raised  their  heads  high  in  air.  A 
more  desolate  scene  cannot  be  imagined  ; and  although 


A TRAVELLING  STONE. 


49 


the  general  features  of  this  dreary  waste  will  ever  re- 
main the  same,  the  topography  will  be  ever  varying. 
The  traveller  who  passed  this  desert  a month  after  us 
found,  instead  of  the  mountains  over  which  we  toiled, 
nothing  but  gullies.  Like  an  immense  panorama,  the 
scene  is  ever  changing,  and  as  the  desert  is  shut  in  on 
every  side  by  high  mountains  of  stone  and  vegetation, 
these  shifting  sand-hills  will  remain  there  until  the  end 
of  time.  The  unchanging  mountains  I have  just  men- 
tioned in  the  far  distance  were  clothed  with  stunted  ce- 
dars, prickly  pears,  and  a variety  of  dwarfish  shrubs 
and  plants,  and  were  the  abodes  of  the  daring  Apaches, 
the  fierce  grizzly  bear,  and  the  black-tailed  deer  so 
common  in  the  mountainous  region  of  Northern  Mexico. 

We  had  made  an  early  start  in  the  morning,  and  the 
distance  across  the  sandy  waste  was  only  ten  miles ; 
yet  it  was  near  night  before  we  had  made  the  tedious 
passage.  Again  we  encamped  with  no  other  water 
than  that  we  had  brought  from  the  Diamond  of  the 
Desert,  and  it  was  with  the  greatest  difficulty  we  could 
find  brush  and  sticks  enough  to  cook  our  beef ; but  we 
had  now  safely  crossed  the  last  desert  on  our  route, 
were  promised  an  abundance  of  good  water  farther  on- 
ward, and  were  satisfied. 

Near  our  encampment  was  a celebrated  stone,  weigh- 
ing some  two  hundred  pounds,  the  history  of  which  is 
singular  enough.  Many  years  ago  this  stone  was  found 
near  the  Diamond  of  the  Desert,  and  was  the  only  one 
within  miles  of  the  pool.  A band  of  muleteers  com- 
menced lifting  it,  and  finally  one  or  two  of  them  were 
found  strong  enough  to  raise  it  to  a level  with,  and  then 
to  throw  it  over  their  heads.  By  accident  the  stone 
first  fell  towards  the  city  of  Mexico  ; and  singularly 
enough,  in  the  course  of  time  it  has  come  to  be  super- 

Vol.  II.— E 


50 


FOUNTAIN  OF  THE  STAR. 


stitiously  regarded  as  a duty  among  the  muleteers  who 
travel  this  road  to  facilitate  the  progress  of  the  stone  to- 
wards the  capital,  a distance  of  some  fourteen  or  fifteen 
hundred  miles ! Every  muleteer  who  passes  along 
gives  the  stone  a trial,  although  scarcely  one  in  fifty  is 
able  to  throw  it  over  his  head,  and  in  no  other  way  is  it  al- 
lowed to  be  moved.  By  this  strange  system  of  jour- 
neying the  stone  has  advanced  some  twelve  or  fourteen 
miles  on  its  travel,  and  this  within  the  last  century  and 
a half.  The  number  of  travellers  upon  this  road  is  very 
great,  all  the  trade  between  New  Mexico  and  the 
States  of  Chihuahua  and  Sonora  being  forced  to  take 
this  route  ; yet  the  stone  makes  remarkably  slow  prog- 
ress, the  same  person  not  being  allowed  to  throw  it 
over  his  head  more  than  once.  After  it  gets  farther 
down  the  country,  some  ages  hence,  its  transit  may  be 
more  rapid ; but  centuries  upon  centuries  will  pass 
away  before  the  wayfarer  arrives  at  its  journey’s  end. 

Such  was  the  history  of  this  singular  stone  as  we 
learned  it  from  Captain  Ochoa.  It  is  called  la  puerta 
de  piedra,*  but  why  it  has  received  this  name  I know 
not.  Throughout  the  country,  the  inhabitants  have 
many  strange  customs,  superstitions,  and  observances, 
borrowed  from  the  Indians,  and  all  taking  their  rise 
from  some  circumstance  of  trifling  import;  but  this 
idea  of  starting  a stone  which  few  can  lift,  upon  so  long 
a journey  and  by  such  ludicrous,  not  to  say  preposter- 
ous means,  is  the  most  singular  of  all. 

By  making  an  early  start  on  the  morning  of  the  12th 
of  November,  we  were  enabled  to  reach  the  Ojo  del 
Lucero,  or  Fountain  of  the  Star,  as  it  is  called,  a spring 
near  the  roadside,  and  distant  some  twenty  miles  from 
our  encampment  of  the  night  before.  Our  route  still  led 
* Stone  door,  or  door  of  stone. 


A RAGGED  REGIMENT. 


51 


us  through  a poor  and  sandy  country,  the  walking  ex- 
tremely tiresome  and  slow. 

Could  a correct  Daguerreotype  view  have  been  taken 
of  us,  at  any  point  on  the  march  between  El  Paso  and 
Chihuahua,  I know  not  whether  it  would  excite  more 
pity  or  mirth — in  fact,  I am  inclined  to  believe  it  would 
occasion  a little  of  both.  The  haggard  and  sickly  ap- 
pearance of  the  men  when  first  captured,  as  well  as 
while  in  the  hands  of  the  detestable  Salezar,  had  now 
given  place  to  fuller  cheeks  and  a more  healthy  colour 
■ — the  consequence  of  a bountiful  supply  of  nutritious 
food  at  El  Paso,  and  the  comparatively  light  marches 
since  we  had  left  that  place.  Still,  such  a motley  col- 
lection surely  never  was  seen  before — such  variety  of 
costume,  and  such  a picturesque,  not  to  say  grotesque, 
appearance  as  we  made  would  put  to  the  blush  and 
break  up  a mardi  gras,  rag-fair,  fantastical  militia,  or 
any  other  fancy-dress  procession  ever  invented.  No 
two  were  costumed  with  any  attempt  at  uniformity,  and 
each  individual  stood  forth  a distinct  and  decided  char- 
acter. But  few  of  us  had  shaved  for  weeks,  and,  as  a 
consequence,  there  was  a large  and  general  assortment 
of  unbrushed  black,  gray,  red,  and  sandy  beards,  as 
well  as  ferocious  mustaches  and  whiskers — enough  to 
rig  out  an  army  of  Fra  Diavolos,  Rinaldo  Rinaldinis, 
or  West  India  bucaniers.  A more  brigandish  set  of 
Anglo-Saxon  faces  has  never  been  collected.  Then,  as 
to  costume,  it  is  utterly  impossible  to  paint  the  variety 
our  little  crowd  of  one  hundred  and  eighty-one  men  pre- 
sented.* A few  shabby-genteel,  Jeremy  Diddlerish  men 


* The  reader  may  recollect  that  we  set  out  from  San  Miguel,  one  hundred 
and  eighty -seven  persons  in  all.  Five  were  either  killed  or  died  before  reach- 
ing El  Paso.  At  that  place  a gunsmith,  named  Neal,  was  left,  under  pre- 
tence of  being  too  ill  to  travel.  It  may  be  that  his  services  were  much 


52 


RAGGED  BUT  MERRY. 


there  were  in  the  party — men  who  had  neither  sold  nor 
“ swapped”  off  the  clothes  they  had  on  when  taken — but 
nine  out  of  ten  were,  to  use  a common  expression,  rigged 
out  almost  any  and  every  way.  Here  would  be  a fel- 
low trudging  along  with  a pair  of  ragged,  Mexican- 
made  trousers,  open  from  the  knee  downward,  and  the 
sides  studded  with  a profusion  of  tarnished  brass  bell 
buttons.  On  his  head  might  be  stuck  the  remnant  of  a 
straw  hat,  while  a faded  Texan  dragoon  jacket  would 
perhaps  complete  his  outfit.  His  neighbour,  very  likely, 
was  arrayed  in  short  buckskin  breeches,  without  stock- 
ings, a coarse,  Mexican  woollen  shirt,  and  no  hat  at  all. 
Then  would  come  a man  with  a dragoon  cap  worn 
jauntily  upon  his  head,  while  part  of  a shirt  and  occa- 
sional fragments  only  of  what  had  once  been  a pair  of 
military  pantaloons,  made  up  the  rest  of  his  attire. 
Hardly  one  in  the  crowd  had  anything  like  a complete 
suit  even  of  rags  ; almost  every  one  was  either  hatless, 
coatless,  pantaloonless,  or  shirtless.  Neither  St.  Giles’s 
nor  the  Five  Points  at  New- York  could  furnish  such  a 
set  of  rough,  ragged,  and  I may  add  rowdyish  charac- 
ters in  appearance. 

Falstaff's  ragged  regiment  was  well  uniformed  in 
comparison  with  ours  ; but,  singular  as  it  may  seem, 
there  could  hardly  be  found  a merrier — I might  be  go- 
ing too  far  in  saying  a happier — set  of  fellows  in  Christ- 
endom. Our  very  looks  bred  good-humour,  for  there 
was  something  irresistibly  ludicrous  in  the  appearance 
of  each  man — a quaint  solemnity  and  droll  gravity  of 
countenance  which  would  elicit  some  facetious  and 
good-natured  remark  from  his  neighbour.  The  comic 

wanted  by  some  of  the  inhabitants,  and  that  his  sickness  “ was  got  up  ex- 
pressly for  the  occasion.”  At  all  events,  I will  venture  the  assertion  that  the 
expense  of  medicine  in  his  case  was  trifling. 


THE  AUTHOR’S  PORTRAIT. 


53 


and  eccentric  were  strangely  mingled  with  the  tragic  and 
melo-dramatic ; but  the  former  preponderated  to  a de- 
gree that  completely  stifled  any  pathetic  feelings  which 
might  otherwise  have  arisen,  and  fairly  induced  us  to 
laugh  rather  than  cry  at  the  forlorn  but  fantastic  figure 
each  one  presented  in  the  moving  panorama.  So  com- 
pletely disguised  were  we  all,  that  I doubt  whether  our 
anxious  mothers,  even  had  the  liberty  of  their  unfortu- 
nate sons  depended  on  the  recognition,  could  have  pick- 
ed us  out  by  the  most  rigid  scrutiny.  And  even  could 
they,  by  some  well-remembered  mark,  have  detected 
an  errant  son,  methinks  they  would  have  been  slow  to 
acknowledge  one  who  had  wandered  so  far  from  their 
hearth-stone  as  to  have  lost  his  very  identity. 

The  free  lines  of  Hogarth  might  have  done  justice  to 
a scene  that  was  before  me  for  months,  but  which  words 
are  wholly  inadequate  to  describe.  Forty  times  a day 
I could  not  resist  laughing  heartily  at  forty  different  per- 
sons, and  nine  times  out  of  ten  these  same  persons  would 
turn  the  laugh  upon  myself,  and  remark  that  there  was 
nothing  particularly  prepossessing  in  my  own  appear- 
ance. And  they  were  right ; for  almost  the  heartiest 
laugh  I had  was  while  surveying  my  own  face  in  a bit 
of  looking-glass.  It  was  the  first  time  I had  the  pleas- 
ure of  seeing  myself  for  a month.  A luxuriant  growth 
of  whiskers  and  mustaches — I am  speaking  of  quantity, 
not  quality — had  sprung  up,  disguising  me  thoroughly. 
I could  only  see  my  face  in  spots,  but  I could  still  see 
enough  fully  to  appreciate  the  ludicrous,  serio-comico 
figure  I presented,  and  inly  I determined  to  take  no 
offence  at  any  laugh  raised,  or  any  remarks  made  upon 
my  visage  or  equipment. 

E 2 


54 


A SINGULAR  HOT  SPRING. 


CHAPTER  III. 

A singular  Hot  Spring. — Medicinal  Properties  of  the  Waters. — “ Doing”  our 
Washing. — Carazal. — Appearance  of  the  Town. — Dr.  Whittaker  in  Busi- 
ness.— Charley  Tirrell,  the  Delaware. — A strange  Contract. — Kirker,  and 
the  Stories  told  of  him.  — Captain  Spybuck  killed  by  Apaches.  — More  of 
Kirker. — Arrival  of  the  Seiiora  Ochoa,  and  her  Style  of  Travelling. — Oppor- 
tunity to  Escape  unimproved. — A Mountain  Spring.— Laguna  Encinillos. 
— Desolate  Appearance  of  the  Country. — Inroads  of  the  Apaches. — Their 
Prowess  and  Daring. — Increase  of  the  Tribe. — Visiters  from  Chihuahua. — 
Hospitality  and  the  Jesuits’  Hospital. — Situation  of  Chihuahua. — Mines  in 
the  Vicinity.  — Governor  Conde. — Excitement  of  the  Inhabitants.  — The 
Military  of  Chihuahua. — Entrance  to  the  City. — Carcel  de  Ciudad. — The 
Women  of  Chihuahua. — The  Plaza. — Description  of  the  Cathedral. — The 
Presidio.— Jesuits’  Hospital. — Salon  los  Distinguidos.  — Names  upon  the 
Walls. — Description  of  the  Hospital.) — Apache  Prisoners. — Hidalgo,  with  a 
short  Account  of  the  first  Mexican  Revolution,  and  the  Death  of  that  cele- 
brated Leader. 

We  passed  a singular  hot  spring  on  the  13th  of  No- 
vember, our  road  leading  us  directly  by  it.  The  water 
boils  up  from  the  top  of  a square  mound,  some  twenty 
feet  high,  which,  at  a short  distance,  has  the  appearance 
of  a fortification.  That  the  mound  is  a natural  forma- 
tion there  can  be  little  doubt ; but  it  is  in  shape  square, 
and  has  as  much  precision  of  angle  and  regularity  of 
outline  as  though  the  hand  of  man  had  fashioned  it. 
The  top  of  this  mound  forms  an  area  of  twenty  or  twen- 
ty-five square  yards,  and  is  perfectly  level,  the  spring 
boiling  up  in  the  very  centre.  It  is  situated  in  the  midst 
of  a desert,  bare  of  all  vegetation  save  a few  bushes  of 
the  thorn  species,  and  may  certainly  be  considered  a 
great  natural  curiosity.  The  water  is  clear,  but  warm, 
and  slightly  brackish. 

A few  miles  farther  on,  we  encamped  by  a large  and 
beautiful  spring,  of  warm  but  excellent  water.  Like 


INROADS  OF  THE  APACHES. 


55 


the  one  I have  just  mentioned,  it  boils  up  out  of  the  sand, 
and  in  such  quantities  as  to  form  a brook  of  no  inconsid- 
erable size  from  the  fountain-head.  After  running  some 
three  or  four  miles  this  brook  empties  into,  or  rather 
forms,  a large  pond  or  lake.  Within  a league  is  an- 
other spring  of  water,  which  was  visited  by  a small  par- 
ty of  our  officers,  accompanied  by  Captain  Ochoa.  The 
Mexicans  say  that  it  possesses  medicinal  qualities,  which 
are  highly  efficacious  in  rheumatism  and  many  chronic 
diseases.  We  reached  the  first-named  spring  about 
meridian,  and  remained  all  the  afternoon,  our  men  em- 
ploying their  time  in  bathing,  and  washing  such  articles 
of  their  scanty  wardrobe  as  might  legitimately  be  term- 
ed washable. 

The  next  morning  we  passed  the  town  of  Carazal, 
leaving  it  about  a mile  and  a half  or  two  miles  on  our 
right.  It  is  situated  in  a fertile  valley  at  the  foot  of 
a mountain,  once  contained  over  a thousand  inhabi- 
tants, and  was  a place  of  considerable  trade ; but  the 
Apaches  have  completely  broken  it  up  by  stealing  the 
cattle  and  crops  of  the  farmers  in  the  vicinity,  and  de- 
stroying any  small  parties  of  citizens  that  unfortunately 
might  be  caught  too  far  from  its  walls.  From  a point 
in  the  road  we  could  plainly  see  these  walls,  and  also 
the  domes  and  spires  of  two  or  three  churches  within. 
We  travelled  some  two  miles  beyond  the  town,  encamp- 
ing for  the  afternoon  and  night  in  an  old  field,  and  by 
the  side  of  a swift-running  irrigating  canal,  now  render- 
ed comparatively  valueless  by  the  inroads  of  the  daring 
and  ever-active  Apaches. 

While  passing  Carazal,  three  or  four  Mexicans  came 
dashing  from  the  place  on  horseback,  rode  up  to  our 
party,  and  inquired  if  there  was  a physician  among  us. 
Dr.  Whittaker,  our  surgeon,  was  pointed  out,  and  in 


56 


AN  EDUCATED  INDIAN. 


company  with  Van  Ness  to  interpret  he  was  taken  to 
the  house  of  a woman  in  the  town  who  was  confined  to 
her  bed  by  illness.  After  he  had  prescribed  some  med- 
icines, an  excellent  dinner  was  provided  for  the  doctor 
and  Van  Ness,  and  shortly  after  their  return  to  camp  in 
the  afternoon  a fine  fat  sheep  was  sent  out  to  the  former, 
as  the  fee  for  his  professional  services.  There  are  few 
Mexican  physicians  except  in  the  large  cities  of  the 
country,  and  so  far  as  I could  learn  they  have  very  little 
need  of  the  services  of  any,  especially  on  the  high  table- 
lands or  tierras  temjAadas.  Still,  American  and  foreign 
physicians  may  be  found  scattered  all  over  Mexico,  and 
frequently  they  accumulate  ample  fortunes  by  their 
practice. 

We  had  been  but  a short  time  encamped  by  the  irri- 
gating canal  when  we  were  visited  by  a half-breed  Del- 
aware Indian,  a tall,  well-made  fellow,  named  Charley 
Tirrell,  who  spoke  very  fair  English,  although  strangely 
mixed  with  Spanish  and  Indian  idioms.  He  had  been 
regularly  educated  in  Indiana,  with  one  or  two  sisters, 
so  he  said  ; had  visited  Washington  city  once  or  twice, 
and  was  well  acquainted  with  General  Dodge  and  sev- 
eral United  States  officers.  It  required  but  a very  short 
time  for  us  to  ascertain  that  Charley  was  extremely 
fond  of  dealing  in  gasconade,  and  that  in  his  own  esti- 
mation he  was  a very  important  personage ; whether 
this  failing  was  inherent,  or  he  had  contracted  it  by 
commerce  with  the  Mexicans,  who  are  heavy  dealers 
in  that  line,  I am  unable  to  say.  He  was  accompanied 
by  a quiet-seeming,  badly  pock-marked  Shawnee,  and 
a pert  little  Mexican  officer,  who  said  he  had  visited 
the  United  States,  and  was  incessantly  pouring  forth  a 
stream  of  rascally  bad  English  to  prove  his  assertion. 
Charley  informed  us  that  himself  and  some  twelve 


HIRED  WARRIORS. 


57 


Shawnees  and  Delawares,  the  party  under  command  of 
a noted  chief  named  Captain  Spybuck,  had  come  to  this 
part  of  Mexico,  from  the  great  Western  Prairies  of  the 
United  States,  under  contract  with  the  government  of 
Chihuahua  to  kill  the  Apaches  at  so  much  a head — five 
dollars,  I think,  was  the  price.  Some  of  the  Mexicans 
also  told  us  that  a well-known  American,  named  Kirk- 
er,  had  been  engaged  in  the  same  business,  and  with  a 
party  of  his  countrymen  had  been  very  successful  ; but 
it  being  soon  suspected  that  he  was  in  the  practice  of 
bringing  in  counterfeit  scalps — or  in  other  words,  that 
he  did  not  scruple  to  kill  any  of  the  lower  order  of  Mex- 
icans he  might  meet  with,  where  there  was  slight  chance 
of  being  discovered,  and  pass  off  their  top-knots  for  those 
of  true  Apaches — a stop  was  put  to  the  game,  and  af- 
terward, instead  of  paying  him  a certain  sum  for  each 
scalp,  he  was  allowed  only  one  dollar  a day  for  his  ser- 
vices. This  was  the  story  I heard  from  the  Mexicans, 
who  added  that  Kirker  immediately  gave  up  the  busi- 
ness and  retired  to  Sonora,  or  the  western  part  of  Chi- 
huahua, setting  all  attempts  to  arrest  him  at  defiance. 

Captain  Spybuck  and  his  party,  at  all  events,  remain- 
ed in  the  service  of  the  government  of  Chihuahua,  re 
ceiving  for  their  pay  one  dollar  per  diem.  He  was  a 
brave  and  noted  chief,  well  known  on  the  Western  fron- 
tiers of  the  United  States  to  many  of  our  officers  and 
soldiers.  His  Mexican  expedition  had  cost  him  his  life  ; 
for,  but  a week  previous  to  our  reaching  the  vicinity  of 
Carazal,  he  had  been  killed  upon  a side  of  the  mount- 
ain, near  that  town,  in  a desperate  encounter  with  the 
Apaches.  Charley  related  the  particulars  of  his  cap- 
tain’s death  with  not  a little  feeling,  and  said  that,  now 
he  was  gone,  both  himself  and  companions  were  ex- 
tremely anxious  to  return  to  the  United  States.  He 


58 


A MAN  OF  DEEDS. 


attributed  the  death  of  Spybuck  to  the  cowardice  of  the 
little  Mexican  I have  spoken  of.  The  latter  command- 
ed a party  of  his  countrymen  at  the  time  of  the  engage- 
ment, but  retreated  precipitately  with  his  men  when  he 
ascertained  that  the  Apaches  were  nearly  equal  in  num- 
ber, and  left  his  Indian  friends  to  fight  it  out  as  best 
they  could.  This  was  not  told  us  in  the  hearing  of  the 
little  Mexican,  who  was  a talking,  blustering  fellow,  ex- 
tremely fond  of  relating  his  exploits.  I could  not  but 
be  amused  at  a remark  of  Charley — one  that  plainly 
showed  he  had  had  much  intercourse  with  the  Ameri- 
cans and  well  understood  their  cant  phrases.  The  lit- 
tle Mexican  had  just  finished  a recital  of  some  danger- 
ous exploit,  of  which  he  had  been  the  hero,  when  the 
Delaware  remarked,  aside,  that  he  was  “ all  talk  and 
no  cider.” 

I was  extremely  loath,  at  the  time,  to  credit  the  Mex- 
ican accounts  of  Kirker  and  his  doings,  and  have 
since  been  informed,  by  Americans  who  know  him 
well,  that  they  are  destitute  of  foundation.  For  many 
years  Kirker  led  a wild,  border  life,  engaged  in  con- 
tinual strife  with  the  hostile  Indians  of  the  prairies  and 
of  Mexico,  and  in  all  his  encounters  with  them  came  off 
victorious.  He  is  now,  or  was  a year  since,  quietly 
occupied  in  overlooking  a hacienda  not  many  days’ 
travel  from  Chihuahua,  ready  to  repel  any  attack  his 
old  enemies,  the  Apaches,  may  make  upon  him.  His 
superior  prowess  and  great  daring  may  have  first  im- 
bittered  the  Mexicans  against  him,  for  no  sooner  has 
any  foreigner  signalized  himself  by  deeds  of  noble  da- 
ring in  their  cause,  than  he  is  looked  upon  with  jealousy 
and  distrust,  and  the  first  opportunity  is  embraced  to 
oust  him  from  the  high  estate  his  talents  have  destined 
him  to  fill.  This  spirit,  in  all  probability,  first  engender- 


A LADY’S  CARRIAGE; 


59 


ed  hostility  against  Kirker  on  the  part  of  the  Mexicans, 
and  induced  them  to  fabricate  numerous  stories  of  his 
cruelty  and  dishonesty. 

At  Carazal  resided,  for  the  time,  the  Senora  Ochoa, 
wife  of  our  friend,  the  captain.  Just  before  we  left  our 
camp,  on  the  morning  of  the  15th  of  November,  she 
arrived  with  the  intention  of  accompanying  her  hus- 
band to  Chihuahua.  Although  on  the  cloudy  side  of 
thirty,  she  was  still  a pretty  woman,  with  large,  spark- 
ling black  eyes,  and  the  winning,  easy,  and  sociable 
manners  which  belong  to  Mexican  females  of  whatever 
degree.  On  her  arrival  she  was  dressed  in  a neatly- 
worked  linen  chemise  and  bluish  woollen  petticoat,  a 
rosary  with  a small  cross  around  her  neck,  and  wore 
her  reboso  with  that  grace  which  is  peculiar  to  the  fe- 
males of  her  land. 

My  readers  may  be  a little  astonished  at  the  style  in 
which  she  made  her  first  appearance  among  us.  Her 
travelling-carriage  was  nothing  more  or  less  than  a 
huge  Pennsylvania  or  Conestoga  wagon,  drawn  by 
four  yokes  of  oxen.  This  vehicle  had  found  its  way 
from  Pittsburgh  to  St.  Louis  ; there  had  been  purchased 
by  traders  who  had  sent  it  to  Santa  Fe,  and  by  some 
strange  mutation  it  had  finally  reached  Carazal  and 
been  promoted  to  the  high  office  of  transporting  a Mex- 
ican officer’s  lady.  Everything  was  comfortable,  how- 
ever, under  the  white  cotton  canopy  which  served  as  a 
top ; and  I doubt  wffiether  the  Lord-mayor  of  London 
ever  felt  happier,  while  showing  himself  in  his  richly- 
caparisoned  coach  of  state,  than  did  Seiiora  Ochoa 
while  riding  in  her  Conestoga  wagon  drawn  by  eight 
oxen.  On  her  arrival  in  camp  her  husband  politely  in- 
vited General  McLeod  and  myself  to  mess  with  him 


GO 


A CHANCE  OF  ESCAPE  LOST. 


and  la  senora  as  far  as  Chihuahua,  an  invitation  which 
we  accepted. 

Although  we  did  not  leave  our  camp  until  a late 
hour  on  the  morning  after  Charley  Tirrell,  the  Dela- 
ware, had  visited  us,  we  saw  no  more  of  him.  After 
our  departure  from  Carazal  I felt  annoyed  that  I had 
not  made  an  attempt  to  escape  through  his  agency  and 
by  his  assistance.  I did  not  place  much  faith  either  in 
his  valour  or  his  honesty,  although  in  this  I may  have 
wronged  him  ; but  I could  easily  gather,  from  his  con- 
versation, that  he  was  anxious  once  more  to  visit  his 
native  land,  and  that  nothing  but  the  want  of  money 
prevented  him.  With  a small  sum  in  hand,  and  the 
promise  of  a larger  on  reaching  the  United  States,  I 
have  little  doubt  he  would  not  only  have  started  off  on 
the  night  he  visited  our  camp,  but  would  have  provided 
horses  for  the  journey.  Our  march  would  have  been 
tedious  and  dangerous^  leading  directly  through  a part 
of  the  Apache  and  Camanche  country  ; we  should  also 
have  been  compelled  to  travel  by  night,  and  endure 
great  hardships  and  sufferings ; still,  I would  have  run 
all  risks  for  the  sake  of  once  more  gaining  that  liberty 
of  which  I was  most  unjustly  deprived.  The  oppor- 
tunity to  escape  was  lost,  however,  when  we  left  the 
neighbourhood  of  Carazal,  and  unpleasant  as  was  the 
prospect  before  me — that  of  a march  of  some  fifteen 
hundred  miles,  and  an  uncertainty  as  to  what  disposi- 
tion would  be  made  of  me  on  reaching  the  city  of  Mex- 
ico— I was  obliged  to  submit. 

The  night  we  left  Carazal  we  encamped  at  another 
hot  well,  and  on  the  next  afternoon  we  arrived  at  a 
cool  spring  upon  the  side  of  a mountain,  at  the  base  of 
which  we  halted.  On  the  18th  of  November  we  jour- 
neyed along  the  margin  of  Laguna  Encinillos,  a lake 


THE  APACHE  INDIANS. 


61 


some  twenty  miles  in  length  by  three  or  four  in  width. 
The  country  in  the  vicinity  affords  most  excellent  pas- 
turage for  cattle  and  sheep,  and  several  years  since 
there  were  immense  herds  of  both  kept  in  this  vicinity  ; 
but  the  dreaded  Apaches  have  extended  their  ravages 
even  to  the  very  walls  of  Chihuahua,  and  laid  the  whole 
country  waste.  At  one  time  a revenue  of  several  hun- 
dred thousand  dollars  was  produced  from  a single  ha- 
cienda on  the  borders  of  the  lake — now  the  place  is 
desolate,  and  the  owner  dare  not  even  visit  it  without  a 
strong  guard.  Some  of  the  best  land  in  Mexico  lies  on 
the  borders  of  Laguna  Encinillos,  but  at  present  it  is  en- 
tirely useless  from  the  depredations  of  the  Apaches.  A 
few  cattle  and  horses  are  still  pastured  in  the  vicinity ; 
yet  where  there  is  one  at  present,  there  were  one  hun 
dred  twenty  years  since. 

The  Apaches  live,  for  the  most  part,  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  the  chain  of  mountains  lying  between  New 
Mexico  and  the  States  of  Sonora  and  Chihuahua. 
They  are  extremely  expert  as  horsemen,  keeping  im- 
mense droves  of  those  animals,  and  in  using  the  lance 
and  bow  and  arrow  are  said  to  be  surpassingly  adroit. 
It  is  within  a few  years  only  that  fire-arms  have  been 
introduced  among  them,  and  those  of  so  inferior  a qual- 
ity that  their  former  weapons  are  far  more  effective. 
They  are  a proud,  independent,  and  hardy  tribe,  but 
little  contaminated  by  intercourse  with  the  whites,  and 
are  said  to  present  the  singular  anomaly  of  a tribe  ot 
aborigines  increasing  in  numbers  and  in  such  wealth  as 
the  Indian  most  covets — horses  and  arms,  trinkets  and 
finery.  In  their  attacks  upon  the  Mexicans  they  are 
said  to  be  very  daring,  coming  upon  them  with  the  speed 
of  the  whirlwind,  and  making  off  to  their  fastnesses  and 
retreats  in  the  mountains  before  organized  pursuit  can 
Vol.  II.— F 


62 


CHIHUAHUA. 


be  commenced.  The  Spaniards,  when  they  first  subju- 
gated the  country,  drove  this  tribe  to  the  mountains  and 
confined  them  there  ; but  of  late  years,  as  I have  said, 
they  have  increased  in  numbers,  are  very  systematic  in 
their  attacks,  and  are  gradually  wresting  their  lands 
back  from  the  Mexicans. 

On  the  night  of  the  19th  of  November  we  arrived  at 
a camp  within  some  five  or  six  miles  of  Chihuahua. 
Here  we  were  visited  by  several  gentlemen  of  the  town 
who  had  heard  of  our  approach.  They  spoke  to  Mr. 
Navarro  very  kindly,  and  said  that  himself  and  friends 
need  expect  nothing  but  hospitality  while  in  the  city. 
The  next  night  we  found  ourselves  closely  confined  in 
the  old  Jesuits’  Hospital! 

The  city  of  Chihuahua  is  situated  near  the  southern 
base  of  a chain  of  precipitous  mountains,  which,  at  this 
point,  form  a kind  of  crescent,  in  the  curve  of  which  the 
city  stands.  As  it  is  approached  from  the  north,  the 
traveller  is  at  a loss  how  a passage  over  the  rough  and 
steep  hills  to  the  south  can  be  made  ; and  even  after  he 
has  entered  the  city  he  is  still  in  doubt.  But  a ride  of 
an  hour  brings  him  to  an  open  defile  turning  abruptly 
off,  unseen  almost  until  the  traveller  enters  it,  and 
through  this  passage  an  excellent  road  has  been  cut. 

As  we  approached  the  city,  the  mines  on  the  mount- 
ain sides  could  be  plainly  seen,  excavations  and  smoke 
marking  the  points  at  which  the  work  of  digging  for 
silver  was  then  in  progress.  When  within  a couple  of 
miles,  the  inhabitants  commenced  flocking  out — some 
on  foot,  others  on  horseback — while  a number  of  heavy, 
clumsy-looking,  but  costly  and  elaborately-carved  coach- 
es, drawn  by  five  or  seven  mules,  with  postillions  after 
the  old  Spanish  custom,  were  on  the  spot,  filled  with 
the  ladies  of  the  place.  I noticed  that  two  or  three  of 


EXCITEMENT  AND  CURIOSITY. 


63 


them  wore  gowns,  after  the  fashion  of  my  own  land — 
the  first  I had  seen  in  a journey  of  six  hundred  miles 
through  the  country. 

When  within  one  mile  of  the  city  a halt  was  called, 
and  immediately  after  the  governor,  Garcia  Conde, 
made  his  appearance,  attended  by  his  suite.  He  is  a 
portly,  handsome  man,  gentlemanly  in  his  manners,  and 
from  his  complexion  appears  to  be  of  pure  Castilian 
blood.  Dismounting  from  his  horse,  he  was  introduced 
to  and  shook  hands  with  General  McLeod,  Mr.  Navar- 
ro, and  several  of  the  officers,  after  which  the  march 
was  resumed. 

As  we  drew  closer  to  the  city,  it  was  evident  enough 
that  our  coming  had  created  an  unusual  excitement  and 
commotion.  The  top  of  the  large  and  magnificent  ca- 
thedral, the  domes  of  the  churches,  convents,  and  other 
public  buildings,  as  well  as  the  housetops,  were  cov- 
ered with  the  inhabitants,  all  anxious  to  obtain  a sight  of 
the  much-talked-of  Tejanos.  Immediately  outside  the 
city  the  entire  military  strength  of  the  place,  com- 
prising some  hundreds  of  regular  and  raw  troops,  was 
drawn  up  in  lines  upon  either  side  of  the  road.  When 
we  were  between  these  lines,  another  short  halt  was 
called,  for  what  purpose  I know  not,  unless  it  was  to  al- 
low the  miserable  burlesques  upon  soldiers  time  to 
wheel  with  their  faces  towards  the  city.  This  evolu- 
tion performed  in  a bungling  manner,  amid  the  sup- 
pressed jeers  of  our  own  men,  we  were  commanded  to 
advance  in  regular  order,  the  Chihuahua  troops  march- 
ing in  single  file  on  either  side  of  us  to  the  blowing  of 
trumpets  and  the  beating  of  drums.  In  this  order  we 
entered  the  northern  or  eastern  part  of  the  city ; but 
why  they  marched  us  in  with  so  much  state  and  cere- 
mony I am  utterly  at  a loss  to  imagine,  unless  it  was  in 


64 


GAZED  AT  AS  A SHOW. 


ambitious  emulation  of  a Roman  triumph,  which  we 
poor  devils  were  thought  worthy  to  adorn. 

While  riding  along,  and  wondering  at  all  I saw,  I 
was  accosted  by  a person  in  the  crowd,  outside  the 
city,  whose  face  plainly  told  that  he  was  other  than 
a Mexican.  Stealthily,  for  we  were  allowed  no  con- 
verse with  any  but  our  guard,  he  asked  information 
of  a young  man  who  had  started  upon  the  expedition 
full  of  health  and  hope.  I told  him  that  the  person  was 
dead — had  been  killed  by  Indians  on  the  prairie.  Far- 
ther than  this  I was  not  allowed  to  communicate,  the 
soldier  by  my  side  commanding  me  to  silence.  After- 
ward I learned  that  the  individual  who  addressed  me 
was  an  American ; that  the  young  man  of  whom  he 
spoke  was  a nephew ; and  the  startled  and  desolate 
look  of  the  man,  the  feeling  with  which  he  ejaculated 
“ dead  !”  plainly  denoted  that  he  was  far  from  antici- 
pating such  ill-tidings. 

Once  inside  the  city,  we  found  every  window,  bal- 
cony, door,  and  housetop  crowded  with  men,  women, 
and  children.  The  sides  of  the  streets,  too,  were  lined 
with  a dense  throng  of  half-dressed  men  and  women, 
the  lower  orders  of  the  place,  and  all  gazing  at  us  with 
an  intentness  as  earnest  as  if  we  had  been  so  many 
wild  beasts.  All  was  hurry,  bustle,  and  confusion. 
Children  were  running  about  and  struggling  through 
the  crowd  to  obtain  a look  at  us,  and  “ Mira ! mira ! 
Los  Tejanos  ! los  Tejanos  !”*  was  on  every  lip. 

A few  steps  brought  us  to  the  Carcel  de  Ciudad,  or 
city  prison,  from  the  close-grated  windows  of  which 
desperate  and  villanous  faces  were  peering  at  us  with 
much  apparent  satisfaction.  Little  did  I then  think 


* “ Look  ! look  ! The  Texans  ! the  Texans ! 


WOMEN  STILL  COMPASSIONATE. 


65 


that  I was  yet  to  be  furnished  with  lodgings  in  a place 
even  more  revolting  than  this  most  dreary  and  dismal 
prison. 

Our  march  led  us  on  through  streets  in  the  direction 
of  the  plaza,  and  at  every  step  the  crowd  seemed  to 
increase  and  become  more  dense.  The  balconies  and 
windows  of  the  better  classes  were  filled  with  women, 
their  full,  black  eyes  beaming  upon  us  with  looks  of 
mingled  pity  and  astonishment.  They  had  never  be- 
fore seen  a people  whom  they  had  been  taught  to  be- 
lieve worse  than  the  savages  themselves — they  gazed 
upon  a crowd  of  unfortunate  men,  in  whose  faces  they 
could  discover  no  trace  of  those  evil  passions,  of  that 
cruelty  of  disposition  and  purpose  they  had  supposed 
us  to  possess.  The  commonest  observer  must  have 
noticed  that  instinct  in  children  which  teaches  them, 
even  before  they  can  talk,  to  read  unerringly  the  coun- 
tenance of  a man  or  an  animal,  and  to  shrink  with  in- 
tuitive fear  from  an  expression  sinister  or  unkind,  while 
they  will  approach  and  soon  become  familiar  with  any 
one  whose  countenance  indicates  good-nature.  That 
same  instinct  appeared  to  govern  the  females  of  Mex- 
ico in  their  conduct  towards  us — the  same  pure,  gentle, 
and  childlike  spirit  within  them  was  touched  by  our 
distresses,  and  inspired  their  soft  exclamation  of  pity 
— pobrecitos — which  was  murmured  in  sweet  accents 
from  the  lips  of  many  a kind-hearted  girl  of  Chihuahua. 
They  saw  that  we  were  not  the  monsters  we  had  been 
represented  to  them,  that  we  were  at  least  human,  and 
that  we  were  unfortunate — and  had  they  possessed  the 
power  to  bid  us  be  free  and  happy,  not  a man  in  tne 
ragged  crowd  of  Texans  would  have  remained  an  hour 
in  bondage. 

We  passed  through  the  principal  plaza,  which  was 
F 2 


66 


CATHEDRAL  OF  CHIHUAHUA. 


also  thronged  with  gazers.  In  the  centre  of  the  square 
is  a fountain — the  celebrated  Cathedral  of  Chihuahua 
occupying  one  of  the  sides,  while  the  shops  of  the  prin- 
cipal foreign  and  native  merchants  fill  up  the  other 
three.  The  cathedral  is  a magnificent  edifice,  as  re- 
gards both  its  architecture  and  adornments.  The  front 
is  decorated  with  numerous  statues  of  apostles  and 
saints,  nearly  or  quite  as  large  as  life,  standing  in  niches 
expressly  built  for  their  reception,  while  the  doors  and 
windows  are  richly  ornamented  with  elaborate  sculp- 
ture, done  in  the  most  costly  style.  The  interior  is 
also  said  to  be  very  expensively  decorated  with  gold 
and  silver  ornaments,  paintings,  and  statuary.  The 
entire  cost  of  all  was  between  a million  and  a half  and 
two  millions  of  dollars,  a monument  of  the  immense 
sums  which  the  Spaniards,  even  in  their  more  remote 
provinces,  were  willing  to  expend  in  order  to  give  full 
effect  to  their  religion. 

On  the  top  of  a fonda,  or  hotel,  which  was  kept  by 
an  Englishman,  we  noticed  a number  of  Anglo-Saxons, 
whose  light  hair  and  fair  complexions  formed  a striking 
contrast  to  the  dark  and  swarthy  faces  around  them. 
On  arriving  at  the  Presidio,*  which  was  set  apart  as 
our  prison,  we  were  halted  and  counted.  A short  time 
after,  an  officer  took  me  to  an  old  establishment  of  the 
Jesuits,  commenced  a great  many  years  since  by  that 
ambitious,  bold,  and  enlightened  order,  but  which  had 
never  been  finished.  Here,  in  a small,  badly-lighted 
room,  having  the  words  “ Salon  los  Distinguidos ”*  paint- 
ed over  the  entrance,  I found  General  McLeod,  and 
Messrs.  Navarro,  Van  Ness,  and  Falconer,  from  whom 
I had  been  accidentally  separated  on  entering  the  city, 

* The  garrison  or  barracks  for  soldiers. 

f Room  or  apartment  for  distinguished  persons. 


JESUIT  CONVENT. 


67 


all  close  prisoners.  On  the  walls  of  this  room  were 
the  names  of  Colonel  Cooke  and  Dr.  Brenham,  and  also 
that  of  a Mr.  Thurston.  The  latter  had  been  confined 
a few  days  in  consequence  of  a letter  of  introduction, 
directed  to  him,  having  been  found  among  the  papers 
of  the  Santa  Fe  Expedition.  It  being  ascertained,  how- 
ever, upon  investigation,  that  he  had  no  connexion  with 
the  Texans,  he  was  released. 

The  apartment  immediately  adjoining  ours  was  a 
dark  dungeon,  and  occasionally  we  imagined  we  could 
hear  the  clanking  of  chains  which  probably  confined  an 
unfortunate  inmate.  The  guard  who  paced  up  and 
down  in  front  of  our  room  informed  us  that  an  Ameri- 
can was  the  only  occupant — his  name,  or  the  crime 
for  which  he  was  incarcerated,  the  sentinel  would  not 
disclose. 

The  building  in  which  we  were  confined  was  one  of 
those  old  Jesuit  establishments  to  be  found  in  every 
part  of  America  where  that  order  first  obtained  a foot- 
ing. That  part  of  it  intended  for  a hospital,  prison,  and 
offices,  was  finished  ; but  the  work  was  stopped  before 
the  church  was  completed.  Had  the  original  plan  of 
the  Jesuits  been  carried  out,  the  church  would  have 
been  a magnificent  edifice,  and  the  building  generally 
would  have  served  as  a fortress,  impregnable,  at  least, 
against  the  attacks  of  Indians ; but  from  some  cause 
the  work  was  suspended  before  its  completion,  although 
immense  arches,  columns,  and  a part  of  the  dome  of  the 
church  are  still  standing. 

The  room  in  which  we  were  confined  looked  out 
upon  a large  corral,  or  yard,  in  the  interior.  The  rear 
wall  of  the  church  formed  one  side  of  this  yard,  the 
kitchen  and  other  apartments  for  servants  another  side, 
while  the  other  two  were  appropriated  to  quarters  for 


68 


HIDALGO,  THE  REVOLUTIONIST. 


soldiers,  rooms  for  the  sick,  offices,  a place  for  punish 
ment,  and  a dungeon.  In  the  yard  an  Apache  woman, 
with  her  child,  was  confined.  She  was  allowed  such 
liberty  as  she  might  find  in  roaming  about  the  building, 
but  was  not  permitted  to  go  into  the  streets.  She  was 
extremely  fat,  and  appeared  to  bear  her  confinement, 
such  as  it  was,  without  a murmur. 

During  the  first  struggle  of  the  Mexicans  for  inde- 
pendence, the  Spaniards  confined  no  less  than  thirty- 
one  of  their  most  important  revolutionary  prisoners  in 
the  very  room  in  which  we  were  now  placed,  among 
them  the  celebrated  Hidalgo,  the  prime  mover  and 
principal  leader  in  the  earlier  outbreak. 

At  the  commencement  of  the  year  1810,  Hidalgo 
was  but  the  poor  and  unimportant  cura  of  Dolores, 
a little  town  some  thirty  miles  northeast  of  Guana- 
juato. From  all  accounts  he  was  a man  of  strong 
mind,  and  of  no  inconsiderable  reading  and  infor- 
mation, possessing  great  powers  of  endurance  com- 
bined with  resolution  and  activity,  and,  in  common  with 
the  natives  of  the  country  at  that  day,  entertained  a 
most  cordial  hatred  for  the  Spanish-born  taskmasters 
under  whose  tyrannical  yoke  they  groaned. 

The  circumstance  that  every  office  of  honour  and 
emolument  in  Mexico  was  filled  by  a native  of  Old 
Spain  was  enough,  of  itself,  even  were  the  offices  held 
by  honourable  men,  to  drive  the  natives  to  revolt ; how 
easy,  then,  to  kindle  the  flames  of  revolution,  when  the 
band  of  office-holders  were,  for  the  most  part,  mere  mer- 
cenary and  broken-down  adventurers,  unprincipled  men, 
who  cheated  and  defrauded  those  whom  they  governed, 
and  whose  many  acts  of  insolence  and  overbearing 
tyranny  tended  to  render  the  natives  infuriate,  against 
not  only  the  agents  themselves,  but  the  parent  country 


RAPID  SUCCESS. 


69 


that  had  sent  them  over ! I do  not  intend  to  say  that 
the  poorer  classes  of  Mexico  are  in  a much  better  sit- 
uation now  than  when  under  the  domination  of  Spain — 
it  appears  to  be  the  destiny  of  the  ignorant  and  money- 
less of  this  unfortunate  race  to  be  the  prey  of  the  more 
wealthy  and  crafty ; but  the  lesson  they  had  received 
from  their  neighbours  of  the  United  States,  co-operating 
with  the  excessive  and  increasing  burdens  and  indigni- 
ties their  mother-country  was  heaping  upon  them,  pre- 
pared the  minds  of  all  to  echo  a grito,  or  cry  of  revolu- 
tion, whenever  any  one  was  found  bold  enough  to  raise 
it.  This  man  appeared  in  the  person  of  Don  Miguel 
Hidalgo  y Costilla,  the  humble  but  discontented  cura  of 
Dolores. 

He  is  said  to  have  received  some  private  insults  from 
the  king’s  officers,  which  rankled  in  his  bosom ; and 
when  to  these  were  joined  the  common  wrongs  that 
were  felt  by  all  his  countrymen  alike,  it  is  not  to  be 
wondered  at  that  a man  of  his  characteristic  boldness 
and  ambition  raised  the  standard  of  revolt.  His  first 
attempt  proved  remarkably  successful.  With  but  a 
dozen  assistants  he  seized  upon  the  few  Spaniards  in 
Dolores,  thi'ew  them  into  prison,  and,  after  dividing  their 
effects  equally  among  his  followers,  proclaimed  war 
against  the  common  enemies  of  all,  the  Gachupines.  or 
natives  of  Old  Spain.  This  was  on  the  16th  of  Septem- 
ber, 1810. 

No  sooner  had  his  first  success  become  known  than 
the  entire  population  of  the  vicinity  flocked  to  his  ban- 
ner. With  a motley,  ill-armed  crowd,  he  marched  im- 
mediately upon  San  Felipe,  a town  containing  some  fif- 
teen thousand  inhabitants.  Here  he  was  again  success- 
ful, imprisoning  and  pillaging  all  the  Spaniards,  and  di- 
viding the  plunder  thus  obtained  among  his  ragged  but 


70 


SWELLING  OF  THE  RABBLE. 


enthusiastic  adherents.  San  Miguel  el  Grande,  a town 
as  large  as  San  Felipe,  next  fell  into  his  hands ; the 
property  of  all  the  foreigners  was  confiscated  and  di- 
vided, after  which  Hidalgo  marched  forthwith  upon 
Guanajuato,  then  containing  a population  of  more  than 
seventy  thousand,  and  immense  riches. 

In  front  of  this  city,  and  with  twenty  thousand  rag- 
ged, undisciplined,  and  almost  unarmed  adherents  around 
him,  he  publicly  proclaimed  the  independence  of  Mexico, 
and  caused  himself  to  be  elected  commander-in-chief  of 
the  army,  with  the  title  of  Captain- general  of  America. 
I cannot  dwell  long  upon  particulars  : Guanajuato,  with 
all  its  immense  treasures*  soon  fell  into  the  hands  of  Hi- 
dalgo, the  Gachupines  were  indiscriminately  slaughtered 
by  his  Indian  allies,  and  all  their  houses  razed  to  the 
ground.  With  this  additional  success,  and  with  the  im- 
mense amount  of  gold  and  silver  the  plunder  of  Guana- 
juato gave  him,  the  little  breeze  of  rebellion  was  now 
fanned  into  a perfect  hurricane  of  revolution. 

Thousands  and  tens  of  thousands  now  hurried  to  the 
standard  of  the  victorious  Hidalgo.  All  had  wrongs  to 
redress : the  native  priest,  who  under  the  Spanish  rule 
could  never  rise  above  a petty  curacy,  now  had  a chance 
for  advancement ; the  native  officers  of  the  army,  who 
were  never  allowed  to  fill  other  than  subordinate  sta- 
tions, now  saw  a bright  opening  for  advancing  and  sig- 
nalizing themselves ; the  ladrones,  or  common  thieves, 
could  now  reap  a rich  harvest  of  plunder  ; while  the 
poor  Indians,  who  for  centuries  had  groaned  silently 
and  patiently  under  the  iron  yoke  of  their  conquerors, 
saw  an  opportunity  for  revenge  and  a chance  to  regain 
their  long-lost  liberty,  and  with  holy  zeal  joined  the 
common  cause  against  the  common  tyrants. 

Hidalgo  remained  but  ten  days  at  Guanajuato,  his 


RUSHING  UPON  DEATH. 


71 


motley  crowd  of  adherents,  in  the  mean  time,  commit- 
ting the  most  outrageous  excesses.  His  next  move  was 
towards  Valladolid,  a place  which  he  found  evacuated 
by  all  the  government  officers  and  foreigners.  By  this 
time  the  rabble  army  he  had  drawn  around  him  num- 
bered more  than  fifty  thousand  men  ; yet  a more  undis- 
ciplined, ineffective,  and  ungovernable  band  was  never 
collected.  A large  portion  of  them  were  drawn  from 
the  Indian  population,  and  were  armed  only  with  clubs, 
stones,  slings,  bows  and  arrows,  lances,  axes,  and  ma- 
chetes, or  heavy  swords.  It  was  not  until  the  celebra- 
ted patriot  general,  Morales,  then  a poor  cura  like  Hi- 
dalgo, joined  the  disorderly  throng,  that  anything  like 
system,  either  in  marching  or  fighting,  was  established. 
Hidalgo  had  depended  only  upon  numbers,  and  the 
blind  enthusiasm  of  his  Indians,  in  encountering  the  sys- 
tematic but  feeble  opposition  he  had  met  with  only  at 
Guanajuato.  From  Valladolid,  his  next  movement  was 
towards  the  city  of  Mexico,  then  in  the  hands  of  the 
Spanish  viceroy,  Venegas. 

On  the  30th  of  October  Hidalgo  defeated  the  force 
sent  out  from  the  city  at  the  pass  of  Las  Cruces,  his  ig- 
norant Indians  even  rushing  up  to  the  mouths  of  the 
cannon  planted  to  intercept  their  onward  march,  and 
endeavouring  to  stop  the  death-dealing  muzzles  with 
their  straw  hats  ! Hundreds  of  them  were  mowed 
down  by  the  cannon,  which  were  well  directed  by  the 
regular  troops  under  Truxillo  and  Augustin  Iturbide. 
The  latter  was  at  that  time  a lieutenant  in  the  Spanish 
service — afterward  Emperor  of  Mexico.  These  offi- 
cers were  defeated,  but  defeated  only  by  the  number 
and  phrensy  of  Hidalgo’s  rabble.  The  latter  imme- 
diately advanced  within  sight  of  Mexico,  and  then  sud- 
denly retreated  with  all  his  host.  He  well  knew  that 


72 


DOWNFALL  OF  HIDALGO. 


another  such  victory  as  that  of  Las  Cruces  Avould 
ruin  him,  for  his  undisciplined  Indians  had  suffered  ter 
ribly,  and  had  learned  the  full  power  of  cannon  when 
advantageously  posted  and  well  directed. 

On  the  7th  of  November  following,  Hidalgo  was  de- 
feated, with  immense  loss,  on  the  plains  of  Aculco,  by 
General  Calleja.  We  next  hear  of  his  entering  Valla- 
dolid a second  time,  putting  to  death  many  Spaniards. 
He  then  marched  to  Guadalaxara,  the  second  city  in 
Mexico,  which  was  at  that  time  in  possession  of  one  of 
his  generals,  Allende.  While  there,  Hidalgo  secretly 
assassinated  no  less  than  seven  hundred  of  the  princi- 
pal Gachupines,  and  committed  many  acts  that  illustrate 
the  bloody  manner  in  which  the  early  revolution  was 
conducted.  Nor  were  the  Spaniards  guiltless  of  the 
most  horrible  atrocities ; for  they  gave  no  quarter  to 
such  of  t'ne  unfortunate  patriots  as  fell  into  their  hands. 

On  the  17th  of  January,  although  he  now  had  cannon 
and  had  brought  a part  of  his  force  into  something  like 
discipline,  Hidalgo  was  once  more  defeated  by  Calleja. 
This  battle  was  fought  at  the  bridge  of  Calderon.  Hi- 
dalgo, with  his  principal  officers  and  about  four  thou- 
sand men,  made  good  his  retreat  to  Saltillo,  in  the  State 
of  Nueva  Leon.  Leaving  his  principal  force  under 
Rayon,  one  of  his  best  generals,  Hidalgo  hastened  to- 
wards the  United  States,  in  company  with  Allende  and 
other  principal  officers,  for  the  purpose  of  purchasing 
arms  and  military  stores,  and  raising  efficient  recruits 
to  carry  on  the  war  against  the  well-disciplined  Span- 
iards. He  got  as  far  as  the  borders  of  Texas,  with  a 
large  sum  of  money,  but  was  betrayed  and  captured  by 
Elisondo,  one  of  his  former  friends  and  compatriots, 
marched  a prisoner  to  Chihuahua,  and  confined  in  the 
room  where  we  were  now  guarded.  This  was  in 


HIS  DEATH. 


73 


March,  1811,  only  six  months  after  he  had  first  raised 
the  grito  of  revolution. 

After  undergoing  a long  trial,  Hidalgo,  with  thirty  of 
his  officers,  was  sentenced  to  death,  and  is  said  to  have 
met  his  fate  with  great  coolness  and  bravery.  Such  is 
a broken  and  hurried  account,  gleaned  from  Ward  and 
other  English  writers,  of  the  first  revolution  in  Mexico, 
and  of  the  short  but  eventful  career  of  the  celebrated 
Hidalgo,  who  began  it.  Some  of  the  sentinels  on  guard 
over  our  little  party  told  a strange  tale  in  relation  to  the 
death  of  Hidalgo  and  his  officers,  thirty-one  in  all  — a 
story  undoubtedly  destitute  of  foundation,  but  which  I 
give  to  show  the  passion  of  the  lower  orders  in  Mexico 
for  the  marvellous.  As  the  tale  ran,  Hidalgo  and  his 
officers  were  ordered  to  be  shot  in  the  yard  of  the  hos- 
pital, one  each  day  until  they  were  all  executed  ; but  as 
the  month  in  which  the  sentence  was  first  passed  had 
but  thirty  days  in  it,  the  Spaniards  waited  until  the  en- 
suing month,  which  numbered  a day  for  each  prisoner. 
When  it  came  to  Hidalgo’s  turn,  the  soldiers,  in  such 
high  respect  and  reverence  was  the  old  cura  held  by 
them,  could  hardly  be  induced  to  aim  their  muskets  at 
him,  and  many  volleys  were  fired  before  he  received 
his  death-wound.  The  very  spot  where  he  fell  was 
pointed  out  to  us. 

Vol.  II.— G 


74 


A VISIT  FROM  COUNTRYMEN. 


CHAPTER  IV. 

The  old  Jesuits’  Hospital  of  Chihuahua.— American  Visiters.— Asked  for  the 
Particulars  of  my  own  Death.  — A stealthy  Interview.— Dr.  Jennison.— 
Clean  Beds.— A sumptuous  English  Breakfast.— Prisoner  in  the  adjoining 
Dungeon. — A Meeting. — The  Mystery  unveiled.— Singular  Trial. — Testi- 
mony of  General  McLeod  and  Messrs.  Van  Ness  and  Navarro. — A Release 
from  Chains. — An  excellent  Dinner  from  the  Senora  Magoffin.— Visiters 
at  our  Room. — Letters  to  my  Friends. — “La  Luna.” — Armijo’s  Letter  to 
Garcia  Conde.— Implicated  with  the  Leaders  of  the  Expedition. — Lewis's 
probable  Agency  in  the  Affair. — A Gasconading  Editor. — Poetic  Address 
to  a Horse. — Movements  of  Lewis. — A lively  little  French  Woman.— Our 
Treatment  by  the  Foreigners  in  Mexico. — Departure  from  Chihuahua.— 
Collection  of  the  Inhabitants. — Furnished  a Horse  by  a Friend.— Difficulty 
of  mounting  the  Pony. — His  Feats  and  Antics. — The  Mexican  Saddle,  and 
its  Advantages. — El  Ojito. — Encounter  with  American  Wagoners. — Arri- 
val at  San  Pablo.- — A Chihuahua  Major. — Our  Accommodations  at  San 
Pablo.— Practical  Knowledge  of  Entomological  Science. — Mexican  Horse 
Jockeys. — Mr.  Falconer  mounted  again.— Saucillo.— An  Escape  agitated. 
— Death  of  Larrabee. — A young  Mexican  Musician.— Santa  Rosalia. — The 
Alcalde  and  his  Daughter. — A stolen  Horse  claimed. — Military  versus  Civil 
Law.— Roadside  Graves  and  Crosses. — Stories  in  relation  to  them. 

It  was  about  two  o’clock  on  the  afternoon  of  the  21st 
of  November  when  we  were  introduced  to  the  Salon 
los  Distinguidos  of  the  Jesuits’  Hospital  at  Chihuahua. 
At  dusk,  two  American  gentlemen  made  their  way,  by 
some  means,  through  the  ponderous  gate  which  leads 
from  the  street  to  the  interior  of  the  hospital,  and  came 
to  our  door,  but  were  denied  admittance  by  the  senti- 
nel. One  of  the  gentlemen,  however,  while  walking  up 
and  down  in  front  of  our  open  door,  stealthily,  and  in 
low  and  hurried  tones,  asked  me  if  I could  give  him  the 
particulars  of  the  death  of  Fitzgerald,  Van  Ness,  How- 
ard, and  Kendall.  To  be  asked  the  particulars  of  one’s 
own  death ! I gave  the  American  my  name,  pointed 


A CURIOUS  PREDICAMENT. 


75 


to  Van  Ness,  who  was  sitting  on  a hospital-cot  close 
by,  in  such  ruddy  health  that  he  seemed  likely  to  live 
seventy  years  to  come,  and  then  told  the  gentleman 
that  the  other  victims  mentioned  as  among  the  killed 
were  both  in  Chihuahua,  at  the  Presidio,  enjoying  the 
full  measure  of  life  and  strength,  and  ready  to  corrobo- 
rate my  statement.  I hardly  know  which  were  the 
most  astonished — we  to  hear  of  our  own  deaths,  or  the 
gentleman  to  learn,  from  our  own  lips,  that  we  were 
still  in  the  land  of  the  living.  There  was  no  opportu- 
nity, however,  for  an  outward  expression  of  surprise, 
as  the  sentinel  at  the  door  showed  great  uneasiness 
even  at  our  few  hurried  questions  and  answers,  not  one 
word  of  which  could  he  understand.  I simply  told  the 
American  that  we  had  been  fortunate  enough  to  escape 
with  our  lives  thus  far,  although  nothing  but  a miracle 
had  saved  us.  Our  visiters  then  left,  but  not  until  they 
had  promised  to  use  every  endeavour,  with  Governor 
Conde,  for  permission  to  visit  us  in  our  room,  and  do 
all  in  their  power  to  soften  the  rigours  of  our  confine- 
ment. 

It  is  so  seldom  that  a man  is  called  upon  to  relate 
the  particulars  of  his  own  death,  that  few  of  my  read- 
ers can  know  what  feelings  the  inquiry  will  excite. 
Our  own  were  of  a nature  exceedingly  mixed.  There 
was  something  pleasant,  to  be  sure,  in  the  fact  that  we 
were  able  to  answer  all  anxious  inquiries  in  person ; 
but  it  was  not  without  a slight  misgiving  as  to  our 
chances  in  perspective  that  we  hastily  recounted  the 
particulars  of  our  recent  fortunate  escape  from  a death 
that  seemed  almost  inevitable. 

On  the  following  day  we  learned  the  name  of  the 
gentleman  who  had  questioned  us,  and  the  reasons 
which  had  induced  him  to  suppose  us  dead.  It  seems 


76 


A HOME-LIKE  BREAKFAST. 


that  Colonel  Cooke  and  Dr.  Brenham  had  reported  that 
we  were  shot  at  San  Miguel,  with  Howland  and  his 
unfortunate  companions,  believing  such  to  be  the  case 
from  the  statements  made  to  them  while  in  New  Mex- 
ico, and  from  the  fact  that  we  were  not  seen  by  any  of 
them  nor  marched  in  their  company  towards  the  capi- 
tal. The  name  of  the  gentleman  who  first  visited  us  at 
the  hospital  was  Dr.  Jennison,  a native  of  New-Eng- 
land,  but  at  that  time  the  principal  conductor  of  the 
mint  at  Chihuahua.  He  has  since  paid  the  debt  of  na- 
ture ; but  the  memory  of  his  courteous  and  gentlemanly 
manners,  and  of  his  kindness  and  exceeding  liberality 
in  furnishing  the  prisoners  with  shoes  and  other  articles 
of  which  they  stood  in  utmost  need,  still  lives  in  the 
hearts  of  those  he  befriended. 

Our  visiters  had  scarcely  left  us  before  clean  mat- 
tresses and  sheets  were  brought  to  our  room,  and  com- 
fortable beds  made,  after  which  we  passed  a quiet  night 
in  sleep.  The  next  morning  an  English  gentleman  sent 
us  in  a sumptuous  breakfast — >the  first  really  substantial 
meal  I had  seen  since  I left  the  United  States.  It  con- 
sisted of  plain  beefsteak,  tender  and  of  delicious  flavour, 
baked  Irish  potatoes  and  most  excellent  bread,  with  a 
generous  supply  of  coffee.  The  Mexican  servant  who 
brought  it  informed  us  that  the  gentlemen  who  had 
called  upon  us  the  previous  evening  would  endeavour 
to  see  and  converse  with  us  during  the  day ; and  one 
of  them,  passing  our  door  in  the  course  of  the  morning, 
said  that  so  soon  as  our  depositions  were  taken  in  rela- 
tion to  the  prisoner  confined  next  door,  the  foreigners 
would  all  be  permitted  to  visit  us.  We  were  still  left 
in  profound  ignorance  as  to  the  name  of  the  unfortunate 
man,  or  the  nature  of  the  charge  against  him ; but  the 
whole  story  was  soon  to  be  told. 


A MYSTERIOUS  PRISONER. 


77 


Although  there  was  no  entrance  to  the  interior  of  the 
square,  on  one  side  of  which  we  were  confined,  save 
through  a large  archway  from  the  street,  we  were  not 
allowed  even  to  cross  this  yard  unaccompanied  by  one 
of  the  sentinels.  While  passing  a gateway  near  the 
entrance  to  the  kitchen,  a dragoon  trailing  close  at  my 
heels,  I encountered,  face  to  face,  the  prisoner  confined 
in  the  dungeon  adjoining  our  apartment.  He  was 
dressed  in  a green  blanket  coat,  with  black  collar  and 
cuffs,  had  large,  black  whiskers,  and  wore  his  hair  ex- 
tremely long,  and  although  his  complexion  at  the  time 
appeared  dark,  his  face  was  extremely  pale.  I was 
about  to  accost  him,  when  he  gave  me  a look  that  ap- 
peared to  be  so  full  of  mingled  scorn,  hatred,  and  en- 
mity, that  I was  for  a moment  chilled  into  silence.  I 
may  have  mistaken  its  expression,  or  he  might  deem  it 
prudent  to  act  thus  coldly  and  strangely  in  the  presence 
of  Mexican  witnesses  ; but  at  the  time  I felt  confident 
that  he  considered  himself  indebted  to  us  for  his  suffer- 
ings and  the  loss  of  his  liberty — I thought  there  was  no 
mistaking  that  black  scowl  he  gave  me  as  I passed  him. 

Ignorant  alike  of  his  name,  business,  and  the  circum- 
stances of  his  arrest,  and  conscious  of  my  own  inno- 
cence in  the  matter,  I had  no  sooner  passed  him  than  I 
was  extremely  anxious  to  come  to  some  explanation  ; 
but  my  watchful  guard  would  allow  no  communication, 
and  I was  forced  onward  without  a chance  to  justify 
myself  from  the  erroneous  impressions  under  which  I 
thought  he  must  be  labouring.  Two  soldiers  accom- 
panied the  prisoner,  and  he  was  shortly  locked  up  in 
his  gloomy  cell. 

This  accidental  meeting,  which  troubled  me  not  a 
little,  was  early  in  the  morning.  Towards  noon,  the 
mystery  which  veiled  our  neighbour  was  dispelled. 

G 2 


78 


THE  MYSTERY  SOLVED. 


The  secretary  of  Governor  Conde,  accompanied  by  an- 
other officer  of  state  and  a Mexican  lawyer  who  under- 
stood a little  English,  arrived  at  our  quarters  to  take 
depositions  in  relation  to  the  case  of  Captain  Dryden, 
which  turned  out  to  be  the  name  of  the  prisoner.  It 
seems  that  he  had  been  mentioned  in  some  of  the  papers 
of  the  Texan  Commissioners  as  a man  whom  they  might 
consult  on  reaching  New  Mexico.  When  the  expedi- 
tion arrived  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Santa  Fe,  Captain 
D.  was  residing  in  Chihuahua.  On  receiving  the  intel- 
ligence of  his  name  being  found  among  the  Texan  pa- 
pers, the  authorities  caused  him  to  be  arrested  and  con- 
fined in  chains  in  the  strongest  dungeon  of  the  place. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  persons  appointed  to  take  our 
depositions,  General  McLeod,  Messrs.  Yan  Ness,  Fal- 
coner, and  myself  were  called  from  the  room,  and  Mr. 
Navarro  was  examined  alone.  Afterward  General 
McLeod  was  taken  into  the  room  and  questioned  in  pri- 
vate, the  Mexican  officers  taking  every  precaution  to 
prevent  anything  like  collusion.  Mr.  Van  Ness  was 
next  examined,  and  the  testimony  of  all  taken  down  in 
writing — as  Mr.  Falconer  and  myself  knew  nothing  qf 
the  prisoner,  we  were  not  examined.  The  testimony  of 
all  went  to  show  that  they  knew  nothing  of  Mr.  Dry- 
den— that  his  name  might  have  appeared  among  the 
papers,  but  that  it  was  probably  without  his  consent — 
at  all  events,  he  was  in  no  way  identified  with  the  Santa 
Fe  Expedition,  so  far  as  they  were  concerned.  The 
effect  of  this  testimony  was  to  procure  the  release  of  the 
prisoner  from  chains,  to  give  him  a greater  degree  of 
personal  liberty,  and  his  American  friends  were  after- 
ward allowed  to  converse  with  him.  Some  twelve 
months  afterward,  as  I have  been  pleased  to  learn,  Cap- 
tain Dryden  was  released  from  confinement  through 


LUXURIES  AND  COMFORTS. 


79 


the  intervention  of  our  minister  at  Mexico,  General 
Waddy  Thompson. 

Scarcely  had  the  officers  of  state  left  our  room  before 
an  excellent  dinner,  comprising  a great  variety  of  Mex- 
ican dishes,  with  two  bottles  of  Champagne,  was  sent  to 
us  by  the  Seriora  Magoffin,  wife  of  the  merchant  who 
had  furnished  us  with  the  coffee  and  other  luxuries  at 
San  Miguel,  and  whom  We  had  afterward  passed  on  the 
road  to  El  Paso.  We  had  not  the  pleasure  of  seeing 
the  senora,  but  she  was  represented  to  us  as  a kind- 
hearted,  affable,  and  exceedingly  well-informed  woman, 
a Mexican  by  birth.  Mr.  Navarro  was  acquainted  with 
her,  she  having  lived  at  San  Antonio  de  Bexar  prior  to 
the  Texan  Revolution,  and  I believe  he  received  per- 
mission to  call  upon  her  while  we  were  in  Chihuahua. 
Two  or  three  of  her  children,  tine,  intelligent  boys,  call- 
ed upon  us  daily  at  meal-times,  for  their  mother  furnish- 
ed us  regularly  with  three  meals  a day,  having  obtained 
permission  from  the  governor  to  that  effect. 

After  dinner,  we  were  visited  by  nearly  all  the  Amer- 
icans and  foreigners  in  the  place,  the  governor  having 
no  objection  to  their  calling  upon  us  after  the  testimony 
in  relation  to  Captain  Dryden  had  been  taken.  They 
offered  us  every  attention  and  kindness,  and  supplied  us 
with  books  and  writing  materials,  as  well  as  clean 
clothing.  From  this  place  I wrote  letters  to  Mr.  Ellis, 
then  our  minister  at  Mexico,  and  to  my  friends  in  the 
United  States.  A part  of  these  letters  only  reached 
their  destinations ; but  as  the  larger  portion  of  them 
were  written  with  the  belief  that  they  might  possibly 
fall  into  the  hands  of  the  Mexicans,  I was  guarded  in 
my  language,  and  cared  but  little  whether  they  ever  got 
safe  through  or  not. 

Among  other  papers,  brought  to  our  room  by  the 


80 


A VALIANT  EDITOR. 


foreigners,  was  a copy  of  La  Luna,  a small  weekly 
sheet  published  at  Chihuahua.  It  contained  a letter 
from  Armijo  to  Governor  Conde,  giving  him  the  num- 
ber and  rank  of  the  prisoners.  The  last  sentence  of  this 
letter  was  in  substance  as  follows:  “You  will  please 
guard  with  especial  care  Senors  Navarro,  McLeod, 
Cooke,  Brenham,  and  Kendall,  on  account  of  their  su- 
perior intelligence,  standing,  and  influence.”  Here  I 
was  expressly  implicated  as  one  of  the  leaders  of  the 
expedition,  and  for  this  I at  once  supposed  that  I was 
indebted  to  the  traitor  Lewis.  Armijo,  as  I well  knew, 
contemplated  giving  me  my  liberty  at  San  Miguel — the 
reasons  for  his  not  doing  so  were  obvious.  Lewis  was 
probably  fearful  that  I should  be  in  his  way  at  Santa 
Fe,  and  accordingly  made  such  statements  to  Armijo  as 
induced  him  to  send  me  to  Mexico  as  a prisoner  of  im- 
portance. It  had  the  effect  of  ensuring  me  better  treat- 
ment upon  the  road,  if  nothing  else ; for  the  Mexicans 
invariably  treat  their  more  important  prisoners  with  the 
greater  deference. 

The  same  paper  contained  several  stirring  appeals, 
both  in  prose  and  verse,  to  the  known  patriotism  and 
valour  of  the  citizens  of  Chihuahua  ! An  immediate  in- 
vasion of  Texas  was  urged,  with  all  the  force  that  can 
be  infused  through  the  Spanish  language  into  a war 
proclamation.  To  drive  the  usurping  Texans  from  a 
soil  which  did  not  belong  to  them,  to  sweep  them  from 
the  face  of  the  earth  as  with  a whirlwind,  was  set  down 
as  the  easiest  thing  imaginable,  especially  when  the  oft- 
tried  and  impetuous  bravery  of  the  Chihuahua  soldiers 
was  brought  to  bear  upon  them.  When  it  is  consider- 
ed that  the  inhabitants  of  that  city  are  really  prisoners 
within  their  own  walls,  hardly  daring  to  venture  outside 
on  account  of  the  hordes  of  Apache  and  Camanche  war- 


MORE  OF  THE  TRAITOR  LEWIS. 


81 


riors  continually  prowling  in  their  vicinity,  the  idea  of 
an  invasion  of  Texas  from  that  quarter  is  somewhat  lu- 
dicrous. But  the  editor  had  seen  evidences  that  the 
Texans  were  not  absolutely  invincible  ; he  had  seen 
some  three  hundred  half-starved  prisoners  from  that 
country  marched  by  his  doors,  and  his  long-pent-up  and 
furious  wrath  found  vent,  on  paper,  in  a laughable  tis- 
sue of  bombast  and  gasconade.  The  same  paper,  too, 
contained  a stirring  appeal  from  some  poetical  corre- 
spondent to  a favourite  gray  horse,  imploring  said  horse 
to  start  immediately  with  him  to  the  bloodstained  prai- 
ries of  Texas,  and  when  there  to  ride  down,  run  over, 
and  trample  under  foot  the  Texan  heretics  until  not 
even  one  was  left.  Of  the  two,  I am  strongly  inclined 
to  believe  that  the  animal  was  much  more  ready  to  un- 
dertake the  perilous  journey  than  the  man. 

From  conversations  I have  had  with  several  Ameri- 
can merchants,  who  are  engaged  in  the  Santa  Fe  and 
Chihuahua  trade,  and  who  visited  the  United  States  du- 
ring the  summer  of  1843, 1 have  learned  the  movements 
of  Lewis  since  the  capture  of  the  expedition.  On  his 
arrival  at  Santa  Fe  the  foreigners  treated  him  with  much 
coolness  and  distrust,  convinced  that  he  had  acted  bad- 
ly, although  not  aware  of  the  extent  of  his  treachery. 
No  positive  insults  were  offered  him,  but  Lewis  was 
soon  led  to  imagine  that  his  countrymen  suspected 
him  of  some  agency  in  inducing  Colonel  Cooke  to  sur- 
render, and  with  this  belief  he  quietly  and  secretly  start- 
ed for  Chihuahua.  This  city,  in  which  he  had  lived 
several  years,  he  entered  in  the  night,  and  at  once  pre- 
sented himself  to  one  of  his  former  intimate  friends  and 
associates.  The  meeting,  so  far  as  the  latter  was  con- 
cerned, was  far  from  cordial — the  whilom  friend  of  the 
traitor  had  heard  of  his  perfidy,  and  at  once  advised 


82 


THE  REWARD  OP  TREACHERY. 


him  to  leave  Chihuahua  if  he  would  escape  the  just  in- 
dignation of  the  foreign  population. 

But  Lewis  could  not  or  would  not  believe  that  a mark 
had  thus  been  set  upon  him,  and  accordingly,  on  the  fol- 
lowing morning,  openly  walked  the  streets,  apparently 
resolved  to  retreat  no  farther,  but  brave  public  opinion 
on  the  spot.  While  a clerk  in  the  place,  he  had  gained 
the  good-will  and  esteem  of  the  residents,  many  of 
whom  were  still  there,  and  when,  in  company  with  the 
brave  but  unfortunate  Howland,  he  had  left  to  join  the 
revolutionists  in  Texas,  somewhere  about  the  year  1835, 
no  one  bore  a better  name  or  reputation ; now,  the  ta- 
bles were  turned.  His  former  associates  treated  him 
coldly  and  with  suspicion,  either  cutting  him  directly,  or 
plainly  manifesting  that  all  their  former  confidence  and 
friendship  were  lost.  Lewis  saw  and  felt  this,  and  that 
very  evening  was  on  the  road  to  the  Pacific. 

His  bad  name,  however,  had  travelled  faster  than  him- 
self, for,  arrived  at  Guaymas,  he  found  the  same  cold- 
ness and  distrust  on  the  part  of  the  foreign  residents — 
the  mark,  even  here,  was  upon  him.  His  advances 
were  repulsed,  his  society  avoided,  and  as  if  to  flee  from 
himself,  he  embarked  for  the  Sandwich  Islands.  From 
thence,  under  an  assumed  name,  he  is  known  to  have 
sailed  for  Valparaiso,  or  some  other  port  on  the  South 
American  coast,  and  since  then  nothing  farther  has  been 
heard  from  him. 

Judging  from  his  previous  conduct,  I cannot  believe 
that  Lewis  was  aware  of  the  enormity  of  his  offence 
until  he  saw  the  disposition  made  of  Colonel  Cooke  and 
his  former  friends  and  associates  by  Armijo.  He  did 
not  lack  good  sense,  but  he  lacked  resolution — a fact 
which  the  quick  eye  of  Armijo  at  once  saw,  and  which  he 
immediately  turned  to  his  own  advantage.  In  Lewis 


VISIT  FROM  A FRENCH  LADY. 


83 


he  found  an  instrument  upon  whose  fears  he  could  play, 
and  by  threats  probably  converted  him  into  a tool  where- 
with to  work  his  treacherous  and  cowardly  schemes. 
On  awaking  to  a full  realization  of  the  extent  of  his 
crime,  the  same  lack  of  resolution  prevented  Lewis  from 
seeking  to  undo  the  black  web  of  treachery  in  which  he 
was  entangled,  but  rather  induced  him  to  the  commis- 
sion of  farther  acts  of  a like  nature  and  of  almost  equal 
atrocity.  How  often  does  the  heedless  first  offence  lead 
to  the  commission  of  well-matured  and  more  heinous 
crimes — crimes  at  the  bare  thought  of  which  the  perpe- 
trator would  at  first  revolt  with  horror,  but  which  he 
soon  deems  necessary  to  cover  the  original  sin  and  for- 
tify his  present  precarious  position.  So  it  is  in  nine 
cases  out  of  ten,  so  it  was  with  Lewis : but  I must  leave 
this  dark  subject,  and  return  to  the  Salon  los  Distingui- 
dos. 

On  the  evening  of  the  26th  of  November,  we  were 
visited  by  a lively,  chattering  little  French  woman,  who 
came  accompanied  by  a pretty  and  intelligent  Mexican 
girl,  a native  of  the  place,  and  belonging  to  one  of  the 
first  families.  The  former  was  some  twenty-eight  or 
thirty  years  of  age,  not  handsome,  but  extremely  naive 
and  entertaining,  and  speaking  four  or  five  languages 
with  much  fluency. 

Her  visit  lasted  nearly  an  hour,  during  which  she  ran 
on  with  the  greatest  volubility — evincing  no  little  emo- 
tion at  the  recital  of  our  sufferings*  and  then  laughing 
merrily  as  some  ludicrous  circumstance  would  be  rela- 
ted. She  gave  us  a short  history  of  herself — a history 
which  showed  that  her  life  had  been  eventful.  She  had 
travelled  the  world  over,  and  finally  had  settled  down 
at  that  most  out-of-the-way  place,  Chihuahua.  There 
she  was  assisting  her  husband,  a German  druggist,  in 


84  PREPARATIONS  FOR  A LONG  JOURNEY. 

his  shop,  and  teaching  music  and  the  languages  to  the 
rising  generation  of  her  own  sex.  She  talked  to  us  and 
appeared  to  look  upon  us  as  her  countrymen,  and  this 
is  the  light  in  which  we  were  held  by  all  the  foreigners 
whom  we  encountered  in  Mexico.  The  kindest  feel- 
ings were  manifested  towards  us  by  the  English,  Irish, 
and  Scotch,  and  also  by  the  French  and  Germans  we 
met  on  our  sorrowful  journey.  They  manifested  the 
liveliest  emotions  of  pity  at  our  unfortunate  situation, 
and  extended  to  us  a sympathy  that  appeared  to  spring 
from  genuine  fraternal  feelings. 

Our  departure  from  Chihuahua  was  fixed  for  the 
next  day  after  the  interview  with  the  little  French 
woman,  a fact  we  had  no  sooner  learned  than  we  set 
about  making  preparations  for  the  long  journey.  A 
young  merchant  from  Massachusetts  offered  me  every 
assistance  in  the  way  of  money,  clothing,  or  necessa- 
ries. Of  the  former  I had  a sufficiency ; but  not  wish- 
ing to  expend  it,  I accepted  his  kind  offer  so  far  as  to 
purchase  some  clothing,  chocolate,  piloncillas*  and  other 
little  luxuries  for  the  road,  for  which  I gave  him  drafts. 
Doctor  Jennison  gave  each  of  the  Texans  a pair  of 
shoes  and  a tin  cup,  and  in  addition  to  this  a large  sup- 
ply of  clothing  and  blankets  was  purchased  of  an 
American  merchant  for  the  use  of  the  Texan  soldiers, 
besides  several  mules  for  the  officers  to  ride.  For 
these,  drafts  on  the  Texan  government  were  given  by 
General  McLeod  and  Mr.  Navarro.  The  situation  of 
all  the  prisoners  was  materially  improved  by  this  sea- 
sonable supply,  and  the  long  journey  to  Mexico  still  be- 
fore us  was  robbed  of  many  of  its  terrors  by  the  fact 

* The  pilmtiUo  is  a small  loaf  of  coarse  brown  sugar,  manufactured  in  the 
middle  districts  of  Mexico,  weighing  some  pound  and  a half.  I think  I 
have  given  the  word  the  correct  spelling. 


EDITORIAL  TROUBLES. 


85 


that  we  were  now  in  a condition  better  to  encounter  its 
hardships. 

After  partaking  of  an  excellent  dinner  on  the  27th  of 
November,  provided  as  usual  by  Mrs.  Magoffin,  we 
took  our  leave  of  Chihuahua  and  our  kind  friends.  I 
cannot  depart  from  this  city,  however,  without  relating 
one  little  circumstance  which  did  not  help  me  forward 
much  in  the  estimation  of  the  more  ignorant  among  the 
native  inhabitants.  Some  old  meddling  busybody  of 
a Mexican,  whose  name  I have  now  forgotten,  got  up 
a small  breeze  of  excitement  by  saying  that  in  the  pa- 
per I published  at  New-Orleans  I had  called  the  great 
Mexican  people  a nation  of  brutes — quadrupeds  was 
the  term  he  used.  I had  no  recollection,  at  the  time,  of 
ever  having  applied  any  such  term  to  the  people  of 
Mexico,  but  thought  that  if  ever  the  opportunity  occur- 
red, I most  certainly  should,  at  least  to  a portion  of 
them.  I should  be  loath  to  insult  the  larger  part  of  the 
brute  creation  by  comparing  them  with  the  inhabitants 
of  New  Mexico,  always  making  a few  honourable  ex- 
ceptions. The  hyenas,  wolves,  and  jackals  can  find 
innumerable  kindred  spirits  on  two  legs  north  of  El 
Paso  del  Norte,  and  many  of  them  even  south  of  that 
place.  But  to  return  to  our  departure  from  Chihua- 
hua. 

Mr.  Navarro  had  a brother-in-law,  a colonel  in  the 
Mexican  service,  who  had  sent  an  order  to  a friend  in 
Chihuahua  to  furnish  him  with  a carriage  and  pair  of 
mules.  A Mexican  officer  had  informed  our  little  party 
that  we  were  to  be  furnished  with  transportation  as  far 
as  Cerro  Gordo,  a small  town  some  two  hundred  miles 
distant ; but  on  starting  we  found  that  he  had  disap- 
pointed us,  and  that  we  were  again  to  proceed  on  foot. 
The  horse  furnished  me  by  the  kind-hearted  cura  of  El 

Yol.  II.— H 


86 


AN  ECCENTRIC  PONY. 


Paso  was  completely  worn  down  and  unable  to  travel, 
and  I determined  to  purchase  another  if  possible. 

The  entire  population  of  the  place  turned  out  to  see 
us  off,  the  streets  on  both  sides  being  lined,  as  usual, 
with  the  lower  orders  of  men,  women,  and  children. 
The  foreigners,  too,  rode  out  some  little  distance,  and  I 
had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  nearly  every  one  of  them, 
with  the  exception  of  the  gentleman  who  had  furnished 
me  with  clothing.  We  were  to  proceed  but  a few  miles 
the  first  evening  ; I therefore  asked  one  of  the  Ameri- 
cans to  inform  my  friend  in  the  city  that  I was  in  want 
of  a horse,  saddle,  and  bridle,  and  at  the  same  time  de- 
sire him  to  send  them  out  early  the  next  morning.  This 
he  promised  to  do,  and  then  bade  us  farewell. 

At  dark  we  encamped  by  the  roadside,  and  at  a 
place  where  there  was  neither  wood  nor  water.  The 
night  was  extremely  raw  and  cold,  and  we  were  again 
compelled  to  take  lodgings  upon  the  ground  ; but  as  we 
were  now  well  provided  with  clothing  and  blankets,  our 
situation  was  far  more  comfortable  than  even  between 
El  Paso  and  Chihuahua. 

Early  the  next  morning  a servant  arrived  from  my 
friend  in  town,  bringing  me  a strong  and  very  servicea- 
ble Mexican  pony.  He  was  wild  and  frisky  as  a mus- 
tang at  my  first  approach,  performed  a variety  of  un- 
seemly antics,  and  for  some  time  manifested  a set  deter- 
mination not  to  allow  me  the  innocent  little  familiarity 
of  bestriding  him.  A ragged,  grim-visaged  Mexican, 
with  an  expression  of  countenance  sinister  enough  to 
frighten  any  well-bred  animal  from  his  propriety,  would 
walk  directly  up  to  and  mount  him  without  the  least 
trouble ; but  the  moment  I undertook  such  a liberty  he 
would  sheer  off,  jump  and  kick  about  “ like  mad,”  and 
keep  such  distance  between  us  as  a twenty-foot  rope 


MEXICAN  SADDLES. 


87 


would  admit.  At  one  time  he  wound  me  up  in  the  rope, 
threw  me  down,  and  came  near  injuring  me  seriously ; 
and  it  was  not  until  I had  made  repeated  efforts  that  I 
succeeded  in  reaching  the  saddle.  Once  there,  I per- 
mitted him  to  show  off  his  eccentricities  ad  libitum ; but 
after  snorting,  shying,  rearing,  pitching,  dancing,  and 
capering  about  for  some  five  minutes,  and  whirling  in 
circles,  much  to  the  amusement  of  a score  of  half-clad 
Mexicans,  he  finally  cooled  down  into  an  easy,  mincing 
pace,  and  I ever  after  found  him  a very  well-behaved 
and  extremely  serviceable  animal.  I have  just  remark- 
ed that  the  Mexicans  were  amused  on  my  first  effect- 
ing a lodgment  upon  the  back  of  the  horse.  In  truth,  it 
was  my  first  appearance  in  one  of  their  saddles,  and  my 
horsemanship  probably  partook  more  of  the  awkward 
than  the  graceful  on  the  occasion.  At  all  events,  I did 
not  feel  that  perfect  security  which  is  agreeable  as  I 
mounted  upon  a saddle  of  a shape  I was  entirely  unused 
to,  with  a horse  under  it  displaying  a variety  of  any- 
thing but  gentle  antics  and  curvettings.  I attempted  to 
act  with  perfect  indifference,  but  I am  far  from  denying 
that  I had  serious  misgivings  all  the  while,  lest  by  some 
extra  feat  of  the  horse  I should  be  compelled  to  leave 
him  in  that  unceremonious  manner  which  is  generally 
styled,  among  jockeys,  “ being  thrown.” 

To  one  unaccustomed  to  the  Mexican  saddle  it  is  ex- 
tremely awkward,  and  far  from  being  easy  at  first ; but 
when  once  habituated  to  its  use,' it  is  almost  invariably 
preferred  to  those  of  English  or  American  manufacture. 
The  rider  has  more  command  over  himself,  sits  easier 
and  steadier,  and  is  far  less  liable  to  be  thrown.  The 
one  I purchased  with  the  horse,  at  Chihuahua,  I rode  to 
within  twelve  miles  of  the  city  of  Mexico,  and  on  after- 
ward mounting  an  English  saddle  I felt  unsteady,  and 


88 


AMERICAN  WAGON  DRIVERS. 


like  being  thrown  from  it  every  moment.  • For  the 
horse  and  saddle  I gave  a draft,  written  upon  a piece  of 
paper  resting  on  my  hat,  and  oddly  enough,  this  draft, 
with  others  I gave  the  same  person  while  in  Chihuahua, 
reached  the  city  of  New-Orleans  on  the  very  day  I my- 
self arrived : while  I travelled  by  way  of  the  city  of 
Mexico,  subject  to  slight  detention  upon  the  road,  the 
draft  came  by  way  of  Santa  Fe,  the  immense  West- 
ern Praii'ies,  and  St.  Louis — in  all  a distance  of  nearly 
four  thousand  miles. 

On  the  night  of  the  28th  of  November,  and  an  ex- 
tremely cold  night  it  was,  we  reached  El  Ojito,  a poor 
hacienda  where  we  could  obtain  no  accommodations 
in-doors.  We  passed  three  or  four  wagons  during  the 
day,  loaded  with  piloncillos  and  dry  goods,  on  the  way 
from  Parras  to  Chihuahua.  The  drivers  of  these  wag- 
ons were  Americans,  stalwart  and  robust  men,,  who  had 
strayed  thus  far  by  way  of  Santa  Fe.  They  informed 
us  that  Colonel  Cooke’s  party  were  some  three  weeks 
in  advance  of  us,  and  taking  the  road  towards  Durango; 
well  treated  on  the  road,  and  generally  in  good  health. 
They  manifested  no  little  astonishment  that  so  large  a 
party  of  Americans  had  been  taken  prisoners  by  a pop- 
ulation so  contemptible  as  that  of  New  Mexico  ; but 
when  we  informed  them  of  the  treachery  of  Lewis,  and 
our  previous  starvation  and  sufferings,  they  appeared 
better  to  understand  the  matter.  After  a conversation 
of  some  ten  minutes  with  these  men,  we  were  forced  to 
pursue  our  journey. 

The  night  of  the  29th  of  November  we  passed  at  an- 
other small  and  poor  rancho,  the  name  of  which  I have 
forgotten.  On  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day  we  reach- 
ed the  village  of  San  Pablo.  The  inhabitants,  number- 
ing some  ten  or  twelve  hundred,  all  flocked  out  to  see 


A HORSE-THIEF  PUNISHED. 


89 


us  on  our  approach,  for  the  officer  who  now  had  charge 
of  us,  a dapper  little  major  of  the  redoubtable  Chihua- 
hua militia,  had  heralded  our  approach  by  the  clangour 
of  two  badly-blown  trumpets.  He  was  a proud  and  ig- 
norant fellow,  extremely  fond  of  display,  and  I have  no 
doubt  honestly  thought  himself  a very  great  man.  Our 
old  friend  Ochoa  Was  still  with  us,  however,  acting  as 
a man-of-all-work,  and  from  him  we  invariably  received 
every  kindness  and  attention.  I have  entirely  forgotten 
the  little  major’s  name,  else  I might  make  farther  men- 
tion of  him,  and  the  many  annoyances  we  were  subject- 
ed to  while  under  his  charge.* 

On  one  side  of  the  principal  plaza  of  San  Pablo,  which 
was  entered  through  a large  and  heavy  gate,  Ochoa 
had  provided  rooms  for  the  principal  officers  and  mer- 
chants, while  the  men  were  compelled  to  occupy  the 
centre  of  the  square,  with  no  shelter  from  the  weather. 
This  was  the  case  on  nearly  the  entire  march,  the  men 

* This  petty  little  tyrant  frequently  beat  his  own  men  most,  unmercifully 
with  the  flat  of  his  sword,  and  almost  invariably  without  provocation.  The 
half-clad,  sandalled,  and  ill-fed  wretches  stood  in  continual  fear  of  him,  while 
from  Ochoa  they  experienced  the  kindest  treatment  and  all  becoming  respect. 

I never  saw  the  latter  strike  but  one  man,  a New  Mexican  horse-thief,  who 
doubtless  well  deserved  the  severe  castigation' he  received.  While  journey- 
ing between  El  Paso  and  Chihuahua  we  met  a party  of  New  Mexican  traders 
on  their  way  from  Sonora  to  Santa  Fe.  One  of  them  was  mounted  upon  a 
miserable  hack,  raw-boned  and  rough-coated,  and  to  give  the  horse  an  addi- 
tional forlorn  appearance,  his  mane  and  tail  had  been  close  shaved.  The 
unhealed  mark  of  a fresh  brand  was  also  seen  upon  the  animal — a mark 
which  not  one  of  us  would  have  noticed,  but  which  the  eagle  eye  of  Ochoa 
at  once  detected.  The  fellow  was  commanded  to  halt,  half  a minute’s  ex- 
amination convincing  our  captain  that  the  fresh  brand  had  been  placed  over 
a former  mark.  Another  minute  was  sufficient  to  assure  Ochoa  that  the 
horse  had  been  stolen,  and  that  he  was  really  the  property  of  the  government 
in  disguise.  The  thief  was  instantly  dragged  from  the  animal,  and  the  next 
moment  a shower  of  blows  from  Ochoa’s  sword  was  falling  upon  his  back. 
With  perfect  indifference  did  we  look  upon  this  scene,  and  I doubt  whether 
a single  Texan  prisoner  would  have  shed  a tear  had  the  New  Mexican  horse 
thief  received  a blow  at  every  step  between  El  Paso  and  Santa  Fe. 

H 2 


90 


falconer’s  choice  of  a nag. 


sleeping  in  the  open  air  except  in  the  large  cities,  where 
convents  or  other  spacious  buildings  could  be  obtained 
for  their  reception.  Generally,  I am  inclined  to  think, 
the  Texan  soldiers  had  the  best  of  it.  They  suffered 
occasionally  from  the  cold ; but  nine  times  out  of  ten 
the  officers  found  their  rooms  overrun  with  fleas  and 
chinches,  besides  innumerable  other  vermin,  the  names 
of  which  I do  not  care  to  mention.  Little  did  I think, 
on  first  leaving  the  United  States,  that  my  vestments 
were  ever  to  afford  harbour  and  shelter  for  swarms  of 
insects  of  the  most  loathsome  description  ; but  imprison- 
ment and  misfortune  bring  strange  companionships. 
They  enabled  me  to  get  a practical  knowledge  upon 
entomological  subjects,  of  which  before  I did  not  under- 
stand even  the  theory. 

While  at  San  Pablo,  Mr.  Falconer  and  others  ex- 
pressed a wish  to  purchase  horses  for  the  journey.  But 
a few  minutes  elapsed  before  several  nags  were  paraded 
in  the  square,  their  Mexican  riders  mounting,  spurring, 
and  showing  them  off  in  every  pace  and  to  every  possible 
advantage.  At  this  game  the  Mexican  jockey  is  far  more 
expert  than  his  brother  of  the  same  calling  even  in  York- 
shire or  Yankeeland.  Mr.  Falconer,  after  having  tried 
several,  finally  made  choice,  as  was  his  wont  in  the  selec- 
tion of  horseflesh,  of  a discreet  and  very  well-behaved  an- 
imal, for  which,  with  a saddle  and  bridle,  he  paid  twenty- 
four  dollars.  The  nag  was  considerably  advanced  in 
years,  set  in  his  ways  withal,  and  notable  for  taking  a jog 
to  suit  his  own  convenience,  regardless  alike  of  whip  and 
spur  and  other  incentives  to  rapid  locomotion  ; but  then 
he  was  fat  and  strong,  and  as  his  purchaser  chose  him 
rather  for  use  and  comfort  than  show  or  fancy,  he  made 
an  excellent  bargain.  Two  or  three  other  ponies  were 
purchased  at  the  same  time,  and  at  prices  varying  from 


AN  ESCAPE  PROJECTED. 


91 


ten  to  fifteen  dollars  apiece,  the  purchasers  having  ob- 
tained small  loans  of  money  while  at  Chihuahua. 

Leaving  San  Pablo  early  on  the  morning  of  the  1st 
of  December,  we  were  enabled  to  reach  Saucillo  the 
same  night,  although  the  distance  was  more  than  ten 
leagues.  The  only  business  carried  on  at  Saucillo  is 
the  manufacture  of  lead,  there  being  a mine  of  that 
mineral  in  the  immediate  vicinity.  There  are  but  few 
inhabitants,  and  they  are  wretchedly  poor  and  ignorant. 

At  this  place  the  plan  of  an  escape  was  agitated  by 
a number  of  the  bravest  spirits  among  our  officers  and 
men,  and  although  opposed  by  others,  was  finally  deter- 
mined upon.  The  plan  was  to  seize  upon  the  guard 
the  next  morning,  shortly  after  starting,  disarm  them  at 
once,  and  then  make  a forced  march  for  the  Rio  Grande. 
It  failed  from  a want  of  unanimity,  and  from  the  im- 
possibility of  inducing  every  person  to  keep  the  station 
assigned  him.  Our  guard  usually  marched  on  either 
side  of  us,  and  although  they  were  tolerably  well  arm- 
ed, we  outnumbered  them.  We  could  have  seized  upon 
and  disarmed  them  with  the  greatest  ease,  and  prob- 
ably not  a man  would  have  been  killed  on  either  side 
in  the  scuffle  ; but  it  is  extremely  problematical  wheth- 
er any  of  the  Texans  would  ever  have  reached  home 
had  the  plan  been  carried  out.  Between  us  and  the 
Rio  Grande  ran  a ridge  of  bold,  steep,  and  in  many 
places  impassable  mountains ; the  plains  were  covered 
with  thick  and  scraggy  thornbushes,  rendering  the 
travel  extremely  slow  and  painful  at  every  step ; the 
exact  route  and  distance  were  unknown  to  any  one, 
and  there  was  no  certainty  that  water  or  provisions 
could  be  found  on  the  route.  I have  enumerated  but 
few  of  the  difficulties  to  be  encountered,  and  from  what 
I have  since  learned  of  the  country  between  our  road 


92 


WHY  NOT  ATTEMPTED. 


and  the  Rio  Grande,  by  the  route  we  should  have  ta- 
ken, I am  led  to  believe  that  hardly  a man  would  have 
got  through  alive. 

, Mr.  Navarro  opposed  the  scheme,  and  mainly  by 
reason  of  his  opposition  it- fell  through.  He  was  so 
lame  that  he  could  neither  walk  nor  ride  on  horseback, 
and  it  was  utterly  impossible  to  go  with  his  carriage 
across  the  rough  and  broken  mountains.  His  own  de- 
struction would  have  been  inevitable,  and  this  he  told 
the  men.  He  farther  stated  that  not  a man,  with  the 
single  exception  of  himself,  would  be  detained  six 
months  in  Mexico  ; that  we  should  endanger  the  safety 
of  Colonel  Cooke’s  party  by  an  escape,  and  be  certain 
to  bring  about  his  own  death,  as  the  exasperated  Mex- 
icans would  shoot  him  on  the  spot.  Few  of  our  men 
believed  his  words ; but,  as  matters  have  since  turned 
out,  the  old  gentleman  spoke  with  a spirit  of  prophecy 
— he  alone  has  been  kept  in  prison  at  the  city  of  Mex- 
ico, while  all  the  others  have  been  liberated.* 

During  the  night  we  spent  at  Saucillo  a man  named 
Larrabee  died  in  one  of  the  carts.  He  was  the  same 
person  whom  Major  Howard  had  pursued  upon  the 
prairies,  mistaking  him  for  an  Indian,  and  it  was  said 
that  poor  L.  never  got  over  the  fright  of  that  singular 
chase.  When  first  discovered  in  the  morning,  the  body 
of  the  man  was  perfectly  cold  ; but  Captain  Ochoa  ask- 
ed Dr.  Whittaker,  our  surgeon,  to  examine  him,  and  see 

* The  attempt  since  made  by  the  prisoners  captured  at  Mier,  in  which 
both  Brenham  and  Fitzgerald  were  killed,  proves,  beyond  doubt,  that  we 
must  either  have  been  all  retaken  or  have  starved  to  death.  The  Mier  prison- 
ers were  successful  in  securing  all  the  arms  of  their  guard  after  a short 
struggle,  and  this,  too,  at  a point  much  nearer  and  more  accessible  to  the 
Rio  Grande  than  ours  at  the  time  of  our  contemplated  escape.  The  former 
were  finally  retaken,  half  starved,  in  the  mountains,  and  what  were  left  after 
a barbarous  decimation  were  marched  to  the  city  of  Mexico,  ironed,  and 
compelled  to  work  in  the  streets. 


A MUSICAL  BOY. 


93 


if  he  was  “ dead  enough  to  bury  /”  Singular  as  was 
this  expression,  I believe  I have  given  the  captain’s  own 
words.  He  had  heard  of  the  horrible  barbarities  prac- 
tised between  San  Miguel  and  El  Paso — knew  that  the 
ears  of  some  of  our  unfortunate  comrades  were  cut  off 
by  Salezar  before  they  were  yet  dead,  and  that  their 
bodies  were  thrown  by  the  roadside  unburied,  to  be  de- 
voured by  wolves — he  had  heard  all  this,  and  the  kind- 
hearted  man  was  anxious  to  pay  every  respect  now 
that  one  of  the  prisoners  had  died  while  he  had  charge 
of  us.  Poor  Larrabee  was  buried  by  the  roadside  at 
Saucillo,  and  sorrowful  enough  were  the  faces  of  those 
present  at  his  funeral ; but  the  eyes  of  kindred,  of  those 
who  would  have  bedewed  his  grave  with  tears,  were 
far  from  the  scene. 

After  a tedious  day’s  march,  we  reached,  just  at 
night,  a corn-field  near  La  Cruz,  and  here  encamped. 
During  the  evening  we  were  visited  by  a young  lad 
from  a rancho  close  by,  who  brought  with  him  a harp 
of  his  own  manufacture.  He  had  learned  to  play  upon 
this  instrument  without  a teacher,  and  ^although  he 
could  not  be  more  than  ten  or  twelve  years  of  age,  his 
execution  was  really  good,  and  his  style  that  of  a mas- 
ter. The  Mexicans  generally  are  extremely  fond  of 
music,  and  great  numbers  of  the  men  can  strum  the 
mandolin,  a species  of  small  guitar,  and  give  the  rude 
airs  of  the  country  with  much  skill  and  effect.  They 
play  from  the  ear  alone — not  one  in  a hundred  of  them, 
in  all  probability,  could  tell  a note  of  music  from  the 
hieroglyphics  on  some  of  the  old  ruins  of  his  country. 

About  noon,  on  the  3d  of  December,  we  arrived  at 
Santa  Rosalia,  a pleasant  town  situated  upon  a pure, 
swift-running  stream  of  water.  As  was  universally  the 
custom,  the  entire  population — men,  women,  and  chil- 


94 


MIGHT  MAKES  RIGHT. 


dren — assembled  in  the  streets  through  which  we  pass- 
ed, and  gathered  in  great  numbers  in  the  plaza  where 
we  were  ordered  to  encamp.  We  had  scarcely  halted, 
before  the  alcalde  arrived  and  invited  our  little  party 
of  officers  and  merchants  to  a dinner  at  his  own  house. 
He  was  evidently  a poor  man,  and  his  dinner  was  far 
from  being  as  sumptuous  as  many  I have  seen  ; but  we 
were  waited  upon  by  his  two  daughters,  one  of  whom 
was  a blooming,  blushing,  bouncing  girl  of  sixteen,  and 
the  tortillas  and  frijoles  held  out  until  all  of  us  were 
satisfied. 

Next  morning,  and  just  as  I had  saddled  my  horse,  a 
couple  of  Mexicans  stepped  forward  and  claimed  him 
as  belonging  to  them.  They  said  that  he  had  been 
stolen  some  two  months  before,  and  after  proving  prop- 
erty, were  about  taking  him  off  without  paying  me 
any  of  the  charges  or  expenses  I had  been  at  on  his 
account.  I appealed  to  Captain  Ochoa,  and  told  him 
the  circumstances  of  my  purchasing  the  horse  of  an 
American  friend  at  Chihuahua.  That  the  animal  be- 
longed to  the  two  men  who  claimed  him  there  was  not 
the  least  doubt — they  pointed  out  brands,  marks,  and 
numbers,  and  proved  the  fact  of  his  having  been  stolen, 
by  a statement  under  the  alcalde’s  own  hand  and  seal — 
but  Captain  Ochoa  decided  the  case  in  my  favour,  told 
me  to  mount  him,  and  turning  to  his  owners,  gave  them 
leave  to  whistle  for  their  property,  or  look  to  the  per- 
son who  had  sold  him  to  me.  I am  far  from  justifying 
the  decision  of  Captain  Ochoa,  although  I profited  by 
it ; I only  mention  the  circumstance  to  show  that  the 
military  power  in  Mexico  tramples  upon  the  civil — that 
there  might  makes  right. 

I was  extremely  fearful  that  the  fellows  would  fol- 
low us  and  steal  back  their  property ; but  Captain 


ROADSIDE  GRAVES. 


95 


Ochoa  placed  a special  sentinel  over  the  horse  at  night — 
had  it  not  been  for  this  watchfulness,  I should  probably 
have  found  myself  on  foot  the  next  morning. 

By  making  an  early  start  from  Santa  Rosalia  on  the 
4th  of  December  we  were  enabled  to  reach  a small 
rancho  before  nightfall,  encamping  in  the  open  field 
near  the  roadside,  for  we  had  no  desire  to  enter  the 
miserable  adobe  huts  of  the  inhabitants.  Immediately 
in  the  rear  of  the  place  stood  four  or  five  crosses,  new 
and  recently  put  up,  marking  the  places  where  that 
number  of  the  little  population  had  been  killed  by  the 
dreaded  Apaches  some  week  or  two  before. 

The  traveller  on  the  great  thoroughfare  between 
Santa  Fe  and  the  city  of  Mexico,  in  fact  on  every  road 
throughout  the  country,  meets  numbers  of  these  rude 
wooden  crosses  on  every  day’s  journey.  Whenever  a 
man  is  murdered  his  friends  erect  a cross,  and  frequent- 
ly the  name  of  the  murdered  person  is  cut  with  a knife 
upon  the  transverse  part,  together  with  his  age,  the 
date  of  his  death,  and  any  little  circumstance  of  note  at- 
tending it.  Around  the  foot  is  a heap  of  small  stones, 
brought  thither  by  friends ; and  the  importance  of  the 
murdered  person,  as  well  as  the  number  of  prayers 
which  have  been  said  for  his  repose,  may  be  learned 
by  the  size  of  the  pile.  Many  stories  of  romantic  in- 
terest were  told  us,  by  our  gossiping  guard,  of  these 
roadside  graves  and  their  occupants,  but  I have  now 
forgotten  them.  Should  the  traveller  treasure  up  all 
the  strange  tales,  wild  legends,  and  superstitious  tradi- 
tions related  to  him  in  Mexico,  he  would  soon  have  his 
head  full.  For  the  most  part  they  are  entirely  desti- 
tute of  foundation,  for  the  Mexicans  have  very  fertile 
imaginations,  and  are  sadly  addicted  to  dealing  in  the 
marvellous  and  romantic. 


96 


UNWELCOME  HOSPITALITY. 


CHAPTER  IY. 

Arrival  at  Guajuaquilla. — An  Invitation. — Inhospitable  Hospitality. — A little 
Mexican  Lawyer.  — His  Self-importance.  — A disagreeable  Night.  — Our 
Companions  fare  better.— Again  on  the  Road. — Rejoicing  at  Guajuaquilla. 
— Tricks  of  a Wag. — Amusing  Anecdote. — Montezuma’s  Brother. — Arrival 
at  El  Rio  Florido. — General  Pike.— The  Hacienda  of  LaNoria. — Its  former 
Wealth  and  present  Condition. — Inroads  of  the  Apaches  and  Camanches. 
— A young  Irishman. — Visited  by  pretty  Girls. — A well-informed  Mexican 
Lady. — Musical  Soiree  and  Dancing. — Change  of  Scene. — Arrival  at  Cerro 
Gordo,  in  the  State  of  Durango. — Our  new  Commander,  Colonel  Velasco, 
pointed  out  to  us. — His  sinister  Appearance.— Visited  by  a Frenchwoman, 
— A Fandango  and  Cock-fight. — Departure  from  Cerro  Gordo. — A genera. 
Turn-out  of  the  Inhabitants. — Suspicions  in  relation  to  Ochoa’s  Integrity. 
— Our  new  Guard  of  Dragoons. — Their  Treatment  of  the  Prisoners. — Hon- 
ourable Conduct  of  Ochoa. — A roadside  Camp. — Colonel  Velasco’s  Char- 
acter begins  to  develope  itself.— Excellent  Provisions  provided.  — Large 
Droves  of  Horses  passed. — An  immense  Hacienda.— Former  Wealth  of  the 
Proprietress.  — Condition  of  the  Peons,  or  W orking  Classes  of  Mexico. — 
Farther  Insight  into  the  Character  of  Velasco. — The  Texan  Officers  allow- 
ed their  Parole. 

The  night  of  the  6th  of  December  was  passed,  agree- 
ably enough,  by  a majority  of  the  prisoners,  at  the  town 
of  Guajuaquilla,  a place  of  no  inconsiderable  note  in  this 
section  of  Mexico — but  a small  party  of  us  were  made 
extremely  unhappy  by  the  misnamed  hospitality  of  a 
whipper-snapper  of  a lawyer.  When  within  five  miles 
of  Guajuaquilla,  this  little  fellow  rode  up  from  a rancho 
near  the  roadside,  and  after  selecting  General  McLeod, 
Messrs.  Navarro,  Falconer,  Van  Ness,  and  myself  as 
his  victims,  invited  us,  with  much  importance,  to  his 
dwelling  close  by,  at  the  same  time  promising  the  little 
major  who  had  charge  of  us  that  he  would  be  respon- 
sible for  our  appearance  on  the  following  morning. 
There  was  something  haughty  and  repulsive  in  the  as- 
pect of  the  man,  and  I should  have  preferred  taking  the 


A PESTILENT  LAWYER. 


97 


chances  of  procuring  a good  dinner  and  lodging  in 
Guajuaquilla  ; but  we  were  all  obliged  to  accept  his 
proffered  hospitality,  and  I have  little  doubt  the  fellow 
thought  he  was  doing  us  great  honour  and  conferring  a 
high  favour  by  inviting  us  to  his  house.  Be  this  as  it 
may,  he  made  us  very  uncomfortable. 

At  home,  we  found  him  a vain,  pompous,  talkative 
braggadocio,  with  a very  limited  education,  and  not  the 
least  real  knowledge  of  the  world.  He  did  not  think 
so  himself,  of  course ; but  he  thoroughly  convinced  us 
of  the  fact  by  his  desperate  endeavours  to  elevate  him- 
self in  our  opinions.  He  recounted  the  different  offices 
he  had  held- — said  that  at  one  particular  time  he  was 
a colonel  of  the  militia,  an  alcalde,  a lawyer,  and  a judge 
— and  that  he  had  put  seven  men  in  the  stocks  in  one 
single  day,  for  daring  to  dit.?bey  his  orders.  As  he  thus 
ran  on,  he  raised  himself  on  tit  toe  at  every  fresh  dem- 
onstration of  his  own  importance  and  power,  and  being 
naturally  but  about  four  feet  and  a half  in  height,  seem- 
ed endeavouring  to  elevate  himself  to  the  ordinary  stand- 
ard of  humanity.  He  gave  us  a miserable  dinner,  worse 
chocolate  in  the  evening,  a shuck  bed  to  sleep  upon,  a 
breakfast  in  the  morning  which  would  have  been  spurn- 
ed by  a dyspeptic  Grahamite,  and  then  had  the  cool  im- 
pudence to  ask  us  if  we  had  ever  been  treated  so  well 
before,  and  hoped  that  we  might  recollect  him.  I can 
assure  him  that  he  has  not  been  forgotten.  In  almost 
every  instance  where  we  were  invited  to  the  houses  of 
the  Mexicans  of  the  higher  order,  we  found  them  gen- 
tlemanly in  their  deportment  and  extremely  good  livers 
— the  little  coxcomb  I have  just  mentioned  was  a signal 
exception. 

After  our  scanty  breakfast  he  accompanied  us  into 
the  town,  where  we  found  that  our  companions  had 

Vol.  II.— I 


98 


PATRIOTIC  REJOICINGS. 


passed  a very  agreeable  night.  They  had  been  ex 
tremelv  well  lodged,  and  had  been  invited  to  a fandan- 
go attended  by  all  the  beauty  of  the  town.  This  in- 
censed us  more  than  ever  against  our  ignorant,  conceit- 
ed, and  mean-spirited  host,  but  there  was  no  help  for  it. 

Shortly  after  the  arrival  of  our  little  party  in  Guajua- 
quilla,  the  march  was  resumed.  The  journey  that  day 
was  short,  as  we  had  reached,  before  noon,  a noted 
stopping-place,  where  there  was  a spring  in  a grove  of 
cotton-wood  trees.  After  sundown  it  was  evident 
enough  that  there  was  a great  rejoicing  in  the  town, 
where  our  main  body  had  slept  the  night  before.  Rock- 
ets were  seen  shooting  in  the  air,  the  report  of  muskets 
was  heard,  and  everything  denoted  that  the  appearance 
of  such  a body  of  Texan  prisoners  was  enough  to  arouse 
the  patriotism  of  the  inhabitants,  and  induce  them  to 
celebrate  the  unusual  occurrence  by  fireworks  and  oth- 
er demonstrations.  The  hand,  too,  of  the  little  lawyer 
who  had  annoyed  us  the  night  before,  was  plainly  to  be 
seen  in  this  outpouring  of  the  public  feeling  ; and  I have 
little  doubt  he  was  very  officious  among  squibs,  India 
crackers,  Chinese-wbeels,  blue  fires,  and  sky-rockets. 
While  I was  enjoying  what  he  called  his  hospitality  he 
gave  me  his  name.  I did  not  think,  at  the  time,  that  I 
should  ever  forget  it ; but  it  has  entirely  escaped  my 
memory.  I hope  he  will  excuse  me  for  not.  giving  it 
in  full,  more  particularly  when  he  is  informed  that  it  is 
far  from  being  an  intentional  slight  on  my  part. 

In  a party  so  large  as  ours,  numbering  some  hundred 
and  seventy,  and  composed  of  persons  from  almost 
every  Anglo-Saxon  settlement  under  the  sun,  as  a mat- 
ter of  course  there  were  many  originals — fellows  up  to 
all  sorts  of  mad  pranks,  and  ever  ready  to  play  off  their 
tricks  when  opportunities  occurred.  Conspicuous  among 


AN  INVETERATE  JOKER. 


99 


them  was  Captain  H.,  a man  with  great  powers  of  imi- 
tation, an  inexhaustible  fund  of  humour,  and  a dry  man- 
ner of  telling  stories  and  playing  off  his  practical  jokes. 
Poor  fellow  ! he  is  now  dead  ; but  the  memory  of  his 
queer  conceits  still  lives. 

Among  us,  at  the  time,  was  a good-natured,  easy, 
quiet  sort  of  personage  from  the  Western  country, 
whom  I shall  call  D.  While  nearly  every  one  of  the 
prisoners  had  picked  up  Spanish  enough  to  “ get  along,” 
as  the  saying  is,  D.  never  could  learn  the  name  even 
of  the  commonest  utensil  or  article  of  food,  and  the 
same  may  be  also  said  of  Captain  H.  The  latter,  how- 
ever, in  mere  fun,  had  induced  D.  to  believe  that  he 
spoke  the  purest  Castilian,  and  was  always  ready  to 
interpret  everything  for  him  at  a moment’s  notice.  As 
a consequence,  the  most  ludicrous  scenes  were  of  al- 
most daily  occurrence,  and  the  translations  of  Captain 
H.,  while  interpreting  for  his  friend,  would  often  drive 
from  our  minds  the  thousand  melancholy  reflections  our 
forlorn  situation  could  not  but  suggest.  One  or  two  lit- 
tle circumstances  I will  relate,  which  created  great  mirth 
at  the  time. 

We  were  encamped  in  the  plaza  of  a small  town,  the 
name  of  which  I have  forgotten,  when  a poor  woman 
approached  D.  with  two  loaves  of  bread  to  sell.  She 
had  a reboso  on  her  head,  one  end  of  which,  drawn 
over  her  left  shoulder,  fell  down  in  front.  An  infant, 
not  more  than  three  months  old,  was  plainly  seen  rest- 
ing upon  her  left  arm,  while  the  hand  which  held  the 
bread  was  entirely  concealed  under  the  reboso.  Ad- 
dressing D.  in  Spanish,  she  asked  him  if  he  wished  to 
purchase  her  bread. 

“ What  does  she  want  ?”  said  D.,  turning  to  Cap- 
tain H. 


100 


BUYING  A BABY. 


The  latter  knew  just  as  little  of  the  wishes  of  the 
woman  as  the  former  ; but  his  ready  wit  at  once  saw 
that  fun  could  be  extracted  from  the  circumstance. 
Mixing  up,  therefore,  some  half  dozen  unintelligible 
words — a speech  of  which  D.  knew  as  little  as  himself, 
and  of  which  the  poor  woman  was  as  ignorant  as  ei- 
ther— he  mumbled  them  over  as  though  addressing  the 
Mexican  in  her  own  language.  With  an  inquiring  look 
she  asked  H.  what  he  said,  while  he,  without  the  least 
knowledge  as  to  the  meaning  of  her  question,  turned  to 
D.  with, 

“ She  wishes  to  know  if  you  don’t  want  to  buy  that 
child.” 

“ The  unfeeling  brute  !”  ejaculated  D.,  evidently  be- 
lieving every  word  of  his  waggish  friend.  “ Tell  her 
‘ No.’  Tell  her  I’ve  got  a wife  and  three  children  al- 
ready, and  the  Lord  only  knows  how  they  are  provided 
for.  What  upon  earth  does  she  think  I want  with  her 
child  ?” 

I turned  away  from  the  spot  to  conceal  my  laughter, 
as  did  several  who  were  present,  and  who  understood 
the  joke.  The  perfect  seriousness  with  which  the  wag 
carried  the  whole  affair  through  completely  deceived 
D.,  and  I doubt  not  he  really  and  honestly  thought  the 
woman  wanted  him  to  purchase  her  child. 

But  the  anecdote  to  which  I allude  occurred  on  the 
morning  when  we  left  our  encampment  under  the  cot- 
ton-wood trees,  the  8th  of  December.  We  had  travel- 
led but  a few  miles  before  we  reached  a large  monu- 
ment by  the  roadside,  erected,  a year  or  two  previous, 
to  the  memory  of  some  colonel  in  the  Mexican  service. 
On  the  side  fronting  the  road  was  a long  inscription  in 
Spanish,  detailing  the  services  the  occupant  of  the  tomb 
had  rendered  in  the  Mexican  Revolution,  his  exploits  in 


A TRANSLATION. 


101 


ridding  the  country  of  the  Spaniards,  and  his  many  he- 
roic, patriotic,  and  virtuous  deeds.  While  two  or  three 
of  us  were  looking  at  the  monument,  the  two  actors  in 
the  scene  above  mentioned  came  up  to  examine  it.  Had 
the  inscription  been  in  Chaldaic,  it  would  have  been 
equally  intelligible  to  either  of  them ; but  D.  had  the 
most  implicit  reliance  in  H.  as  a translator  of  Spanish. 

“ What  is  all  that  reading  about,  captain  ?”  said  D. 

“ On  the  monument  there  ?”  queried  H.,  evidently 
studying  some  kind  of  speech. 

“ Yes,  on  the  monument  there.” 

“ You  want  me  to  translate  it,  D.,  do  you?” 

“ I do.” 

“Well,  it  amounts  to  this — Here  lies  the  body  of 
Montezuma’s  brother.” 

“ His  what  ?”  said  D.,  opening  his  eyes. 

“ His  brother,”  coolly  replied  the  imperturbable  H., 
“ who  came  to  an  untimely  end,  on  the  15th  of  Novem- 
ber, 1598,  by  the  bite  of  a rattlesnake.  This  monu- 
ment is  erected  as  a testimonial  of  the  high  esteem  in 
which  he  was  held  by  his  aunt” 

“His  aunt?”  inquired  D.,  with  emphasis. 

“ By — his — aunt !”  answered  the  wag,  slowly  and  de- 
liberately uttering  each  word  as  though  there  could  be 
no  mistake  about  it. 

This  was  too  much,  and  I was  obliged  to  put  my 
horse  into  a brisk  canter  in  order  to  reach  a place  where 
I could  have  my  laugh  out,  without  raising  suspicions  in 
the  mind  of  D.  that  the  whole  thing  was  “ got  up”  ex- 
pressly for  his  benefit.  Not  a smile  could  be  detected 
on  the  countenance  of  H.  while  he  was  giving  his  ex- 
tremely free  translation,  and  to  judge  from  outward  in- 
dications his  friend  swallowed  every  word  of  it. 

That  night  we  reached  a small  hacienda  on  the  Rio 
I 2 


102 


AN  IRISH  BEAUTY. 


Florido,  the  place  where  General  Pike  left  the  main  road 
when  he  was  conducted  through  the  interior  of  Mex- 
ico. From  this  point  he  was  escorted  out  of  the  coun- 
try by  a detachment  of  Spanish  troops,  taking  Saltil- 
lo, San  Antonio  de  Bexar,  and  Nacogdoches  in  their 
route. 

On  the  next  afternoon  we  arrived  at  the  old  and  well- 
known  hacienda  of  La  Noria,*  where  is  a deep  and 
never- failing  well.  From  this  well  the  immense  herds 
of  sheep,  cattle,  and  horses  raised  on  the  estate  are 
supplied,  the  water  being  drawn  by  two  mules  attached 
to  an  apparatus  for  the  purpose.  The  hacienda  of  La 
Noria  was  formerly  very  wealthy,  yielding  a heavy  rev- 
enue to  its  proprietor ; but  of  late  years  the  Camanche 
and  Apache  Indians  have  stolen  large  numbers  of  horses, 
cattle,  and  sheep,  as  well  as  grain,  from  the  neighbour- 
hood, and  but  a week  or  two  previous  to  our  arrival 
they  had  made  a descent  in  the  vicinity,  killed  three  or 
four  of  the  peons,  or  labourers,  and  carried  off  a large 
quantity  of  plunder.  All  over  the  States  of  Chihuahua 
and  Durango  the  inhabitants  live  in  continual  dread  of 
these  savages. 

At  La  Noria  we  met  an  Irishman,  a lad  of  some 
eighteen  or  twenty  years  of  age,  who  lived  at  a small 
village  one  or  two  leagues  from  the  road.  Two  or 
three  young  ladies  were  also  on  a visit  to  the  hacienda, 
having  come  expressly  to  see  us.  Their  father  was  an 
Irishman  who  had  settled  early  in  the  country,  but  their 
mother  was  of  Mexican  birth,  and  they  could  speak  no 
other  language  than  hers.  All  of  them  were  pretty — 
one  was  extremely  beautiful.  She  had  the  dark,  ex- 
pressive eyes,  the  long,  silken  lashes,  and  the  rich  bru- 

* Signifying,  in  English,  the  water-wheel,  or  wheel  by  which  water  is  drawn 
from  a well. 


BROAD  CONTRASTS. 


103 


nette  complexion  of  her  mother,  while  from  her  father 
her  cheek  derived  that  rosy,  healthy  tint,  which  seemed 
to  gain  something  richer  than  its  native  charm  when 
seen  struggling,  like  sunlight,  through  the  soft  and  beau- 
tiful brown  of  a Castilian  skin.  We  at  first  supposed 
they  could  all  speak  English,  hut  afterward  ascertained 
that  such  was  not  the  case.  After  spending  an  hour  or 
two  at  the  hacienda  they  went  away,  accompanied  by 
their  mother  and  the  young  Irishman,  for  their  home  at 
the  village. 

The  lady  of  the  house  at  La  Noria  was  a well-edu- 
cated woman,  having  spent  some  time  at  an  academy 
in  Durango.  She  also  sang  very  well,  and  played  upon 
the  guitar  admirably.  When  night  came  she  gave  us 
a fandango,  which,  before  it  ended,  was  turned  into  a 
musical  soiree,  and  we  really  passed  a very  agreeable 
evening.  She  gave  us  several  Spanish  ballads  with 
much  feeling,  and  sang,  in  Italian,  an  aria  from  one  of 
Bellini’s  operas,  showing  herself  equally  conversant  with 
his  music  and  his  language.  We  had  several  very  tol- 
erable singers  among  ourselves,  and  from  the  song, 
mirth,  and  hilarity  which  prevailed,  a spectator  could 
not  have  supposed  that  we  were  prisoners  in  a strange 
land,  and  profoundly  ignorant  as  to  the  fate  that  await- 
ed us.  So  it  was  all  the  way  through  Mexico.  One 
night  we  were  enjoying  ourselves  with  music  and  the 
dance — the  next  we  were  shivering  over  a scanty  fire 
in  the  open  air,  and  sleeping  exposed  to  such  inclemen- 
cy as  the  ruler  of  the  elements  might  see  fit  to  bestow.* 
The  very  night  after  the  scenes  I have  described  above 

* Neither  the  Mexicans  nor  Indians,  even  where  wood  is  abundant,  build 
large  fires.  It  is  a common  remark  with  the  Indians,  that  the  Americans 
make  such  large  fires  that  they  cannot  approach  near  enough  to  warm  them- 
selves. 


104 


A NEW  COMMANDER. 


we  were  encamped  upon  a cold  hillside  within  a cou- 
ple of  miles  of  Cerro  Gordo,  not  a sign  of  human  habi- 
tation in  sight. 

It  was  with  feelings  not  a little  excited  that  we  en- 
tered the  miserable  town  of  Cerro  Gordo  the  next  morn- 
ing. At  this  place  Ochoa  was  to  leave  us,  and  we 
were  to  be  consigned  to  a new  guard.  We  were  to 
enter  a new  state,  too,  that  of  Durango,  and  were  ig- 
norant as  to  the  treatment  we  might  receive  from  the 
governor.  During  our  journey  through  the  State  of 
Chihuahua,  a distance  of  some  five  hundred  miles,  we 
had  been  treated  comparatively  well ; whether  we 
were  to  find  a continuance  of  such  usage  was  a matter 
of  great  uncertainty,  and  hence  our  uneasiness. 

As  we  were  taken  through  the  long  street  upon 
which  the  greater  part  of  the  town  is  built,  our  new 
commander,  Colonel  Velasco,  was  pointed  out  to  us. 
At  the  time,  I thought  him  the  most  unprepossessing 
specimen  of  humanity  I had  ever  met  with.  He  was 
dressed  in  a light  blue  roundabout  or  short  jacket,  with 
a small  red  cord  along  the  seams  and  three  rows  of 
small  silver-plated  buttons  in  front,  while  his  pantaloons 
were  of  cloth  of  the  same  colour,  foxed  with  green  mo- 
rocco, to  prevent  his  saddle  from  'chafing  and  wearing 
them.  He  wore  an  enormous  pair  of  whiskers,  upon 
which  he  had  apparently  bestowed  no  attention,  and 
his  upper  lip  was  disfigured  or  ornamented — I leave 
this  point  for  my  reader  to  decide — with  a pair  of  huge, 
grizzly,  coarse  mustaches,  which  stuck  out  in  almost 
every  direction  but  the  right  one.  His  head  was  cov- 
ered with  a profusion  of  long,  iron-gray  hair,  but  par- 
tially covered  by  a small,  rakish  cap,  drawn  over  his 
eyes  as  if  to  conceal  any  sinister  expression  they  might 
have.  Such  is  but  an  imperfect  picture  of  the  man 


UNPLEASANT  FOREBODINGS. 


105 


who  was  to  have  charge  of  us,  and  not  a person  in  our 
party  could  look  at  him  without  a shudder,  or  without 
thinking  we  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of  a second  Sale- 
zar. 

We  were  taken  entirely  through  the  town  and  con- 
fined in  an  old  deserted  building.  Here,  upon  the  walls, 
were  the  names  of  Cooke,  Brenham,  Frank  Combs  and 
others,  written  by  themselves  a short  month  previous. 
During  the  afternoon  we  were  visited  by  numbers  of 
the  inhabitants,  and  also  by  a lively  little  French  wom- 
an, who  invited  several  of  us  to  dine  at  her  house.  Her 
husband  was  dead,  having  left  her  a large  property, 
and  she  evinced  the  greatest  commiseration  for  our  un- 
fortunate condition,  as  well  as  a desire  to  alleviate  it  as 
far  as  lay  in  her  power.  At  night  several  of  us  went  to 
a fandango  and  cockfight,  accompanied  by  two  or  three 
Mexican  officers  only  as  a guard.  Everywhere  we 
were  treated  with  the  greatest  civility,  and  at  a late 
hour  we  returned  to  our  quarters  and  took  up  our  hard 
lodgings  upon  the  cold  earth  floor.  There  was  some- 
thing in  our  treatment,  so  far,  that  gave  us  some  hopes 
we  had  fallen  into  humane  hands  ; but  whenever  the 
picture  of  Colonel  Velasco,  with  his  mustaches,  whis- 
kers, and  iron  countenance,  was  called  to  mind,  the 
hopes  of  being  well  used  in  a great  measure  vanished. 

As  some  little  preparation,  was  necessary,  in  procu- 
ring bread-stuffs  and  other  requisites  for  our  journey,  it 
was  not  until  near  the  middle  of  the  day  on  the  12th  of 
December  that  we  took  up  the  line  of  march.  We  had 
been  led  to  suppose  that  we  were  to  be  taken  through 
Durango,  the  city  of  pretty  women  and  alicrans  ;*  but 

* I believe  that  the  city  of  Durango  is  somewhat  celebrated  for  the  beauty 
and  talent  of  its  women — I know  that  it  is  noted  for  the  numbers  and  venom- 
ous qualities  of  its  alicrans,  or  scorpions.  Frequently,  while  travelling 


106 


A PAINFUL  SUSPICION. 


as  Colonel  Cooke’s  party  had  gone  by  that  route,  we 
were  ordered  to  proceed  by  a more  easterly  road.  Be- 
fore our  departure,  nearly  all  the  officers  of  our  guard 
who  had  accompanied  us  from  Chihuahua  came  to  take 
their  leave  of  us,  and  bade  us  a kind  farewell.  Ochoa 
was  not  among  the  number,  and  as  he  owed  several 
small  sums  to  the  Texan  officers — money  which  he  had 
borrowed  at  different  places  on  the  road — for  the  first 
time  suspicions  of  his  integrity  were  aroused.  These 
suspicions  were  farther  increased  when  the  trumpet 
sounded  an  advance,  and  we  were  ordered  to  proceed. 

The  signal  for  our  departure  was  also  the  signal  for 
the  entire  population  to  rush  to  the  street  through  which 
we  were  to  pass,  and  as  usual  we  found  either  side 

through  the  State  of  Durango,  were  we  regaled  with  Mexican  stories  of  the 
swarms  of  poisonous  alicrans  which  infest  the  capital.  Of  course  I can  say 
nothing  of  these  insects  from  personal  experience,  not  having  been  within 
thirty  miles  of  the  city  which  they  inhabit ; but  if  half  the  tales  told  me  were 
true,  the  inhabitants  must  be  kept  in  continual  fear  and  much  trembling  on  ac- 
count of  them.  To  children  and  to  elderly  persons  the  bite  or  sting  of  the 
alicran  is  said  to  prove  fatal,  while  to  the  middle-aged  they  cause  suffering 
the  most  intense.  A bounty  of  some  three  or  six  cents — I have  now  forgot- 
ten the  precise  sum — is  paid  by  the  authorities  for  each  insect  secured,  and 
according  to  some  of  the  stories  told  us,  no  inconsiderable  business  is  car- 
ried on  in  the  way  of  catching  and  bottling  the-much-dreaded  scorpions.  As 
it  may  not  prove  uninteresting  to  many  of  my  readers,  I will  quote  a short  par- 
agraph in  relation  to  these  singular  insects  from  the  narrative  of  General 
Pike : “ The  scorpions  of  Durango  are  one  of  the  most  remarkable  instances 
of  the  physical  effects  of  climate  I ever  saw  recorded.  They  come  out  of  the 
walls  and  crevices  in  May,  and  continue  in  such  numbers  that  the  inhab- 
itants never  walk  in  their  houses  after  dark  without  a light,  and  always  shift 
or  examine  the  bedclothes  and  beat  the  curtains  previous  to  going  to  bed, 
after  which  the  curtains  are  secured  under  the  bed,  similar  to  the  precautions 
we  take  with  our  moscheto  bars.  The  bite  of  these  scorpions  has  been 
known  to  prove  mortal  in  two  hours.  The  most  extraordinary  circumstance 
is,  that  by  taking  them  ten  leagues  from  the  city  of  Durango  they  become 
perfectly  harmless,  and  lose  all  their  venomous  qualities !”  Such  are  the 
stories  told  of  the  much-dreaded  alicrans  of  Durango.  Of  their  size  and  ap- 
pearance I could  learn  little,  save  that  they  are  an  inch  or  more  in  length, 
have  many  legs,  and  move  with  much  celerity. 


DURANGO  CAVALRY. 


107 


thronged  with  a crowd  of  the  most  motley  description 
— priests,  robbers,  peons,  loafers,  soldiers,  half-dressed 
girls,  naked  children,  high  and  low — all  eager  to  obtain 
a last  sight  of  los  Tejanos.  In  the  throng  we  observed 
many  of  the  girls  we  had  seen  at  the  fandango  the 
night  before,  waving  their  hands  and  murmuring  their 
“ adios,  caballeros”  as  we  passed.  Our  new  guard  was 
composed  of  about  one  hundred  men  belonging  to  Colo- 
nel Velasco’s  regiment.  They  were  tolerably  well 
mounted,  it  being  a cavalry  regiment,  and  known  by 
the  name  of  the  “ Frontier  Guard  of  Durango.”  Their 
uniform  is  a blue  woollen  coatee  or  jacket  trimmed  with 
red,  with  velvet  trousers  of  the  same  colour,  and  instead 
of  a common  cavalry  cap  they  all  wear  a coarse,  wide- 
brimmed  wool  hat,  with  a plate  of  tin  some  two  inches  in 
width  entirely  circling  the  crown.  Their  arms  consist- 
ed of  a carbine,  slung  to  their  saddles  on  the  right  and 
with  the  breech  up  ; on  the  left  side  of  the  saddle  is 
fixed  a lance,  to  the  end  of  which  a strip  of  red  flannel 
or  Woollen  stuff  is  attached,  which  flutters  gayly  as  they 
ride  along ; a heavy  cavalry  sword,  which  clatters  at 
every  movement  of  their  horses,  completes  their  equip- 
ment, for  although  a pair  of  holsters  were  attached  to 
the  pommels  of  their  saddles,  I never  could  see  that  they 
contained  pistols.  All  were  excellent  horsemen,  and  at 
a little  distance  their  appearance  was  decidedly  showy 
and  gallant ; but  a closer  inspection  convinces  that 
they  must  prove  ineffective  men  when  hard  blows  and 
knocks  and  heavy  service  are  required  of  them.  They 
rode  on  either  side  of  us  in  regular  order,  and  evinced  a 
degree  of  discipline  far  superior  to  that  of  the  raw  mi- 
litia who  had  heretofore  accompanied  us ; but  they 
were  old  soldiers,  and  we  augured  very  favourably  as  to 
our  future  treatment  from  their  politeness,  and  the 


108 


SUSPICIONS  REMOVED. 


many  little  acts  of  deference  which  none  but  the  vet- 
eran soldier  exhibits  to  those  whom  chance  may  throw 
in  his  power.  Throughout  our  long  and  tedious  march 
we  were  almost  invariably  well  treated  by  the  regular 
troops,  while  the  young  and  undisciplined  recruits  and 
raw  militia  were  overbearing  and  insolent  in  their  gen- 
eral deportment. 

We  had  reached  the  confines  of  the  town,  and  were 
about  striking  out  into  the  open  country,  when  a ser- 
vant of  Captain  Ochoa  came  riding  up  in  haste,  and  de- 
livered a note  and  small  parcel  to  Mr.  Navarro.  The 
note  was  written  in  Spanish,  very  courteously  worded, 
and  the  purport  of  it  was  that  Captain  O.  could  hardly 
trust  his  feelings  in  bidding  us  farewell  in  person.  He 
however  sent  his  best  wishes  for  our  health  and  happi- 
ness while  upon  the  road,  and  his  hopes  that  we  might 
be  speedily  liberated  on  reaching  the  city  of  Mexico. 
In  the  same  note  he  stated  that,  in  the  parcel  which  ac- 
companied it,  would  be  found  the  different  sums  of 
money  he  had  borrowed  of  our  officers  on  the  road, 
with  a regret  that  he  had  been  unable  to  repay  them 
sooner.  Nothing  could  have  been  more  delicate  or 
more  gentlemanly  than  the  tenour  of  this  note.  The 
clouds  which  had  been  rising  over  his  fair  fame  were 
at  once  banished,  and  Captain  Ochoa  again  stood  out 
in  the  broad,  clear  light  of  an  honourable  man.  I know 
not  whether  these  remarks  may  ever  meet  his  eye,  but 
if  they  do,  he  will  see  that  he  has  not  been  forgotten. 

There  being  no  settlement  within  some  fifteen  leagues 
of  Cerro  Gordo,  we  encamped,  the  first  night,  in  a little 
mesquit  valley,  near  a spring  of  water.  Here  the  true 
character  of  Colonel  Velasco  began  to  develope  itself. 
He  asked  the  quantity  of  beef  which  had  been  given  to 
each  of  the  prisoners  upon  the  march — apologized  for 


SCARCITY  OF  TREES  IN  MEXICO.  109 

the  quality  of  that  he  ordered  to  be  killed  on  the  occa- 
sion— said  it  was  the  best  he  could  procure  at  Cerro 
Gordo,  and  wound  up  by  assuring  us  that,  so  long  as 
we  were  under  his  charge,  we  should  have  the  fattest 
meat  and  the  best  bread  that  could  be  obtained  on  the 
route,  and  as  much  as  we  wished  for.  Generally  speak- 
ing, the  character  and  disposition  of  a man  may  be  read 
from  his  countenance  ; but  in  this  instance  we  were  all 
deceived.  It  may  have  been,  however,  that  the  huge 
whiskers  and  mustaches  of  Colonel  Yelasco  completely 
hid  all  the  better  qualities  of  his  mind  as  reflected  in 
his  face,  for,  unprepossessing  as  was  his  countenance, 
we  ever  found  him  a kind-hearted,  gentlemanly  offi- 
cer, and  disposed  to  grant  us  every  indulgence  in  his 
power. 

On  our  first  day’s  journey  from  Cerro  Gordo  we 
passed  a large  number  of  horses  and  mules,  herded  on 
either  side  of  the  road  in  small  droves  not  exceeding 
forty  or  fifty  in  each  gang.  The  pasturage,  as  far  as 
the  eye  could  reach,  was  excellent,  with  no  other  trees 
than  an  occasional  mesquit  not  much  higher  than  a 
common  thornbush.  And  here  I might  mention  a fact 
which  may  not  be  generally  known  to  my  readers. 
Those  at  all  conversant  with  Mexico  know  that  it  is 
far  from  being  a wooded  country ; but  few  are  aware 
of  the  extreme  sparsity  of  trees  to  be  seen  while  trav- 
elling through  it,  and  more  especially  along  the  high 
table-lands.  I have  seen  more  trees  in  one  day’s  travel 
in  the  United  States  than  during  a journey  of  three 
months  through  Mexico.  In  fact,  every  tree  met  with 
on  the  route  between  Santa  Fe  and  the  city  of  Mexico, 
with  the  exception  of  those  which  have  been  planted 
by  the  inhabitants,  could  be  set  upon  twenty  square 
miles  in  the  United  States  and  find  a sufficiency  of 
Vol.  II. — K 


110 


A VAST  ESTATE. 


room  to  grow.  The  tops  of  some  of  the  mountains  are 
partially  covered  with  stunted  oaks,  cedars,  and  pines, 
and  from  these  the  poorer  classes  and  Indians  make 
charcoal,  which  ever  finds  a ready  sale  in  the  larger 
towns  and  cities.  They  have  no  other  use  for  it  than 
to  cook  their  food,  fireplaces  being  nearly  unknown  af- 
ter getting  as  far  south  as  Zacatecas. 

We  were  told,  by  some  of  our  guard,  that  the  horses 
we  met  during  the  day  all  belonged  to  a single  haci- 
enda, which  we  should  reach  on  the  following  night. 
The  Mexicans  related  stories  that  appeared  almost  in- 
credible in  relation  to  the  former  prosperity  and  richness 
of  this  hacienda,  and  the  immense  number  of  horses  and 
mules  owned  at  one  time  by  its  proprietor.  They  even 
went  so  far  as  to  say,  that  but  a short  time  prior  to  the 
Revolution  no  less  than  three  hundred  thousand  horses 
were  in  the  possession  of  the  lady  who  was  then  the 
owner  of  the  estate.  Whether  this  story  was  true  or 
false  I am  unable  to  say  ; but  however  incredible  it 
may  appear,  the  story  is  robbed  of  much  of  its  extrav- 
agance when  it  is  stated  that  her  possessions  extend- 
ed some  fifty  miles  on  either  side  of  the  road. 

Our  second  day’s  journey  from  Cerro  Gordo  was  one 
of  some  twenty-five  miles,  yet  we  were  constantly  in 
sight  of  horses  and  mules.  They  were  generally  in 
droves  of  about  fifty,  each  gang  herded  by  a single 
Mexican,  whose  only  business  it  was  to  see  that  none 
of  them  strayed  away.  Towards  nightfall  we  reached 
a large  hacienda  by  the  roadside,  an  estate  owned  by 
the  mistress  of  the  immense  tract  upon  which  the  horses 
were  pastured.  She  is  a widow,  I believe ; and  al- 
though comparatively  poor  when  the  immense  wealth 
of  some  of  the  former  proprietors  is  taken  into  consid- 
eration, is  still  the  owner  of  fifty  thousand  horses  and 


A MUNIFICENT  GIFT. 


Ill 


mules,  large  herds  of  cattle  and  sheep,  immense  fields 
of  corn  and  wheat,  and  has  several  thousand  peons  at 
tier  different  haciendas. 

To  show  the  immense  wealth  of  one  of  the  former 
proprietors  of  this  estate,  who,  like  the  present,  was  a 
widow,  I will  relate  one  little  anecdote  told  us  while 
we  were  there.  A short  time  previous  to  that  revolu- 
tion which  resulted  in  the  separation  of  Mexico  from 
Spain,  and  while  the  estate  I have  just  alluded  to  was 
at  the  zenith  of  its  prosperity,  a regiment  of  dragoons 
arrived  from  Spain  and  landed  at  Tampico.  This  re- 
giment was  one  thousand  strong,  and  of  course  the  men 
did  not  bring  their  horses  with  them.  The  colonel  of 
the  regiment  happening  to  be  a friend  of  the  family  of 
the  wealthy  proprietress,  and  well  known  to  her  de- 
ceased husband,  she  immediately  sent  him  a thousand 
white  horses  as  a present,  for  the  use  of  his  regiment. 
There  was  hardly  a month’s  difference  in  the  ages  of 
these  horses,  and  every  one  of  them  had  been  raised 
upon  her  estate.  While  we  were  there,  a number  of 
horses  were  brought  to  our  encampment  to  be  sold,  and 
two  or  three  were  disposed  of  at  prices  ranging  from 
seven  to  ten  dollars — horses  that  would  readily  com- 
mand from  sixty  to  eighty  dollars  in  the  United  States. 
A very  well-made  and  showy  bay,  of  fine  action,  and 
not  more  than  five  years  old,  was  offered  for  twenty- 
five  dollars.  I am  confident  he  would  readily  command 
..wo  hundred  dollars  in  any  part  of  the  United  States. 

And  how,  it  will  be  asked,  is  the  labour  on  this  im- 
mense estate,  and  others  of  its  kind,  effected,  and  who 
are  the  workmen  ? I have  already  said  that  the  mis- 
tress of  the  estate  had  several  thousand  peons  or  labour- 
ers upon  its  different  branches,  and  to  these  unfortunate 
vassals,  for  they  cannot  be  called  by  any  other  name, 


112 


DESCRIPTION  OF  A HACIENDA. 


are  the  rich  proprietors  of  Mexico  indebted  for  all  their 
wealth. 

The  Constitution  of  Mexico  guaranties,  to  all  classes 
and  colours,  the  greatest  liberty  and  equality — the  poor- 
est peasant  is  protected,  by  the  glorious  panoply  of  the 
law,  from  every  infringement  upon  his  personal  liberty 
— and  the  most  abject  beggar  in  the  land  has  rights  and 
privileges  which  cannot  be  trampled  upon  by  his  neigh- 
bour, be  he  ever  so  powerful  or  wealthy.*  So  much 
for  the  law  and  Constitution  in  theory — the  practice  is 
an  entirely  different  matter. 

The  traveller  who  visits  one  of  the  larger  estates  in 
Mexico,  finds,  in  the  centre  of  it,  a village,  or  collection 
of  houses,  large  or  small  in  proportion  to  the  quantity 
of  land  owned  by  the  proprietor.  Occupying  the  most 
conspicuous  situation  is  the  church,  generally  a strong 
stone  building  surmounted  by  a tower  or  cupola,  with 
a clear,  silvery-sounding  bell.  The  interior  is  decora- 
ted, perhaps,  with  statues  of  our  Saviour,  the  Apostles, 
the  Virgin,  and  the  patron  saint  of  the  hacienda,  execu- 
ted in  wood,  and  frequently  arrayed  most  fantastically ; 
the  walls  are  covered  with  wretched  copies  of  Scriptu- 
ral paintings.  Close  by  the  church  is  the  residence  of 
the  haciendero,  or  owner,  a massive,  strong,  roomy,  but 
comparatively  unfurnished  dwelling,  in  one  of  the  front 
apartments  of  which  is  his  store.  Here  the  poor  peons 
purchase  their  liquor,  their  cigars,  and  the  little  cloth 
that  furnishes  their  raiment,  and  at  prices  the  most  ex- 
orbitant. Adjoining  this  house  are  the  trojes,  or  barns, 
where  the  produce  of  the  estate  is  stored — strong,  sub- 
stantial buildings.  Then  come  the  rude  adobe  hovels 
of  the  common  labourers,  frequently  having  but  one 

* Such  was  the  case  while  I was  in  Mexico  : as  the  Constitution  is  changed, 
on  an  average,  every  six  months,  a different  state  of  tilings  may  exist  now. 


MEXICAN  SLAVES. 


113 


room,  in  which  the  whole  family,  father  and  mother, 
brothers  and  sisters,  sons-in-law  and  daughters-in-law, 
huddle  together  upon  one  common  earthen  floor. 

And  what  relation  do  these  people  bear  to  the  haci- 
endero  ? They  are  many  of  them  slaves — slaves  to  all 
intents  and  purposes,  although  they  may  enjoy  a nom- 
inal liberty.  A large  proportion  of  them,  probably,  are 
in  some  way  indebted  to  the  proprietor,  the  law  giving 
him  a lien  upon  their  services  until  such  debts  are  paid ; 
but  most  especial  good  care  does  he  take  that  they 
never  pay  him  their  obligations  so  long  as  their  services 
are  in  any  way  profitable.  They  are  in  his  debt,  and 
are  kept  so  until  age  or  infirmity  renders  their  labour 
unproductive  ; then  the  obligation  is  cancelled,  and  they 
are  cast  upon  the  world,  to  beg,  steal,  or  starve,  as  best 
they  may. 

Should  some  one  of  the  peons,  more  active,  ambi- 
tious, or  enterprising  than  his  fellows,  chance  to  accu- 
mulate money  enough  to  repay  his  debt  and  regain  his 
liberty,  how  then  ? He  offers  his  master  the  price  of 
his  redemption,  but  the  latter,  upon  some  flimsy  pretext, 
refuses  to  take  it — he  has  not  yet  done  with  the  services 
of  the  vigorous  servant.  The  latter  flies  to  the  alcalde 
for  redress.  The  law  is  on  his  side,  equity  is  on  his 
side,  but  the  functionary  who  administers  them  is  very 
likely  a creature  of  the  proprietor,  and  will  not  listen  to 
the  case  of  the  slave,  be  it  ever  so  just.  The  latter  at- 
tempts to  purchase  justice  by  a bribe,  but  he  is  outbid 
by  the  haciendero.  The  alcalde  shuts  his  eyes  upon 
justice,  opens  his  hand  to  the  longer  purse  of  the  pro- 
prietor, and  the  unfortunate  serf  is  once  more  driven  to 
bondage.  Such,  so  far  as  I could  see  and  learn,  was 
the  state  of  things  at  many  of  the  haciendas  we  passed 
upon  our  journey.  The  immense  wealth,  which  has 
K 2 


114 


GENEROUS  TREATMENT. 


fallen  into  the  hands  of  the  few  in  Mexico,  has  given 
them  a power  over  the  numerous  and  abjectly  poor 
which  amounts  nearly  to  that  of  the  English  barons  un- 
der the  feudal  system — never  will  there  be  a change  in 
favour  of  the  lower  orders  until  a thorough  and  radical 
revolution  takes  place  in  the  very  natures  of  the  inhab- 
itants, or  until  the  country  falls  into  other  hands. 

To  resume  my  narrative.  On  the  14th  of  December, 
our  men  now  much  improved  and  invigorated  by  the 
substantial  and  bountiful  supply  of  food  furnished  them, 
we  passed  the  Palo  Chino,  encamping  at  a hacienda  a 
few  miles  farther  on.  It  was  at  this  place,  the  name 
of  which  I did  not  ascertain,  that  we  had  still  farther 
reason  to  admire  the  conduct  of  Colonel  Yelasco. 
Calling  the  officers  and  merchants  together,  amounting 
to  some  eighteen  or  twenty,  he  told  us  that  he  had  ev- 
ery confidence  in  our  words,  and  that  while  in  his 
charge  we  should  be  permitted  to  go  where  we  pleased 
on  our  parole  of  honour.  No  guard  was  to  accompany 
us — the  only  exaction  he  made,  and  even  that  was  in 
the  shape  of  a request,  was  that  we  should  all  be  in  at- 
tendance every  morning  when  the  trumpet  sounded  an 
advance. 

From  this  time  we  enjoyed  the  greatest  liberty. 
When  night  came,  we  could  select  any  meson,  at  the 
place  where  we  were  halted,  to  sleep  in,  and  could 
roam  about  at  will.  The  same  liberty  would  have 
been  granted  our  men,  but  that  among  them  were 
several  drunken,  worthless  fellows,  ever  ready  to  abuse 
every  privilege  allowed  them.  The  larger  portion  of 
the  Texans  were  well-educated,  intelligent  men,  pos- 
sessing all  self-respect ; yet  they  were  obliged  to  suffer 
from  the  bad  conduct  of  a few  of  their  associates  in 
imprisonment. 


WHIMSICAL  NAMES. 


115 


CHAPTER  VI. 

Arrival  at  El  Gallo,  or  The  Cock.— Singular  Names  for  Towns. — A rich  Sil- 
ver Mine. — Scenes  at  a Fandango. — The  Well  of  El  Gallo. — Arrival  at 
Dolores. — Guadalupe.  — ■ The  Prisoners  reach  Cuencame. — A small  Party 
of  us  quartered  at  the  House  of  a Castilian.  — Hospitable  Treatment. — 
Strange  Superstition  in  relation  to  a Statue.  — Gullibility  of  the  Poorer 
Classes.  — We  are  turned  over  to  a new  Guard.  — Selling  a Watch.  — La 
Senorita  Juana. — Colonel  Velasco  takes  leave  of  the  Prisoners. — Captain 
Roblado. — Story  in  relation  to  him. — Superiority  of  the  Bread  of  Cuencame. 
— Our  Departure. — Hacienda  of  Juan  Perez. — Roblado,  and  his  Treatment 
of  an  Alcalde. — A tedious  March. — Arrival  at  San  Sebastian. — Frightened 
Girls  and  wounded  Dogs. — Freaks  and  Endurance  of  the  genus  Donkey. 
— Arrival  at  Saenea.  — Picturesque  Situation  of  the  Town. — The  Maguey 
Plant ; its  Uses  and  Abuses. — One  Drink  of  Pulque  sufficient. — A Gang  of 
“ Involuntary  Volunteers.” — Mode  of  Recruiting  for  the  Mexican  Army. — 
Rancho  Grande.— Decay  in  Mexico. — An  American  Traveller. — Arrival  at 
Fresnillo.— 1 The  Mines  in  the  Vicinity. — Meeting  with  an  Englishman. — 
The  Tienda  del  Gato. — Stories  and  Egg-nog. — More  “Involuntary  Volun- 
teers.”—A Stage-coach,  and  Thoughts  of  Home. — La  Caleta. — First  Ap- 
pearance of  Small-pox  among  the  Texans. 

Early  on  the  afternoon  of  the  15th  of  December  we 
reached  the  small  village  of  El  Gallo,  or  The  Cock.*  It 
is  situated  at  the  foot  of  a rough  and  precipitous  hill,  on 
the  sides  of  which,  it  was  said,  a rich  vein  of  silver  ore 
had  just  been  discovered.  This,  I wish  it  to  be  under- 
stood, was  but  a Mexican  story  ; I give  my  authority, 
lest  some  mining  adventurer  should  be  drawn  to  the 
spot  in  search  of  treasure,  which  probably  has  no  exist- 
ence, save  in  the  imagination  of  the  ignorant  and  gos- 
siping inhabitants. 

At  night,  a fandango  was  given  at  the  house  of  the 
alcalde,  attended  by  some  half  dozen  of  the  prisoners  as 
well  as  the  very  elite  of  El  Gallo.  One  of  the  girls  was 

* The  Mexicans  give  queer  names  to  some  of  their  smaller  towns.  I rec- 
ollect sleeping  one  night  at  the  town  of  Wheelbarrow. 


116 


THE  SWORD  DANCE. 


dressed  in  a yellow-white  tunica,  or  modern  gown,  of 
French  cut,  and  brought  probably  from  the  city  of  Du- 
rango. She  undoubtedly  wore  it  in  honour  of  los  Se- 
nores  Tejanos  and  their  customs  ; but  there  was  no 
necessity  of  her  punishing  herself  thus  severely  on  our 
account.  That  she  felt  stiff,  awkward,  and  ill  at  ease 
under  the  infliction  of  the  frock  was  evident,  and  it 
would  have  been  all  the  same  to  us  had  she  appeared  in 
the  common  loose  dress  of  her  countrywomen.  There 
were  others  in  the  room  arrayed  with  the  usual  Mexi- 
can regard  to  physical  liberty  and  comfort,  their  easy 
and  graceful  movements  forming  a pleasing  contrast  to 
the  constrained  and  straight-jacketish  carriage  of  their 
companion. 

The  evening  passed  pleasantly  away,  and  had  a spec- 
tator, unacquainted  with  our  true  situation,  been  present, 
and  seen  the  Texan  officers  dancing  and  waltzing  with 
the  Mexican  sehoras,  he  would  not  have  suspected  that 
we  were  prisoners.  A dance,  executed  by  a Mexican 
sergeant  and  one  of  the  girls,  afforded  much  amusement. 
The  name  given  to  it  was  danzade  la  espada,  or  sword 
dance,  the  difficult  and  dangerous  feats  of  the  sergeant 
completely  eclipsing  the  tricks  of  any  juggler  of  the 
sword-swallowing  genus  I have  ever  seen.  That  he 
would  not  only  take  his  own  life,  but  that  of  his  brunette 
partner  in  the  dance,  seemed  inevitable  ; for  he  cut  and 
slashed  about,  fell  upon  his  sword,  balanced  it  upon  his 
nose  and  eyes,  and  so  pointed  it  at  the  breast  of  the  girl, 
that  we  all  felt  relieved  when  the  dance  was  over  and 
ascertained  that  both  had  escaped  unhurt. 

This  exhibition  gave  infinite  delight  to  a score  of  girls 
of  the  poorer  class,  seated  upon  the  floor  at  one  end  of 
the  room.  And  here  I would  mention  one  circumstance, 
which  must  have  been  observed,  but  appears  to  have 


CUENCAME. 


117 


been  forgotten  or  suppressed  by  all  travellers  and  wri- 
ters upon  Mexico — the  singular  faculty  the  women  have 
of  bestowing  themselves  upon  a floor.  I have  frequent- 
ly seen  a dozen  girls  seated  upon  a space  too  small  for 
even  three  of  any  other  nation.  How  they  dispose  of 
their  nether  limbs  is  a mystery — I only  know  that  they 
group  themselves  so  closely  together,  and  sit  so  bolt  up- 
right, that  one  might  imagine  they  had  been  cut  in  twain, 
and  the  upper  portion  placed  upon  the  floor  after  the 
manner  of  so  many  barrels  in  a storehouse. 

At  El  Gallo  is  a deep  and  clear  natural  well  of  warm 
water,  from  which  the  town  is  supplied.  Like  our  ne- 
groes, the  Mexicans  can  carry  immense  loads  upon  their 
heads,  and  processions  of  girls  were  seen  passing  to  and 
from  the  well  at  all  times,  carrying  large  earthen  jars 
with  the  greatest  steadiness — not  spilling  a drop,  even 
though  the  jars  were  filled  to  the  brim. 

The  night  of  the  16th  of  December  we  spent  at  a 
poor  rancho,  the  name  of  which  I have  forgotten.  The 
next  afternoon  we  reached  the  very  wealthy  hacienda 
of  Dolores,  where  we  saw  a very  pretty  girl,  and  where 
we  found  every  comfort.  The  night  of  the  18th  we 
passed  at  the  hacienda  of  Guadalupe,  without  any  in- 
cident worthy  of  note  occurring.  On  the  20th  we  reach- 
ed Cuencame,  the  largest  town  we  had  yet  seen  with 
the  exception  of  El  Paso  and  Chihuahua. 

We  had  no  sooner  entered  the  plaza  than  a little 
Spanish  merchant  invited  three  or  four  of  us  to  spend 
our  time  at  his  house.  He  was  a proud  and  fiery  little 
Castilian,  fond  of  relating  the  exploits  of  his  countrymen, 
but  entertained  us  with  the  utmost  hospitality  and  kind- 
ness. A very  pleasant  rest  we  were  allowed  at  Cuen- 
came. Some  of  our  officers,  not  liking  the  quarters 
provided  for  them,  hired  rooms  in  the  town  for  the  two 


1 IS 


A MIRACULOUS  IMAGE. 


nights  we  were  to  pass  there,  and  during  the  day  we 
roamed  about  the  place,  visiting  the  churches,  cockpits, 
and  tiendas  with  which  it  abounds.  In  the  principal 
church  is  a singular  curiosity,  religiously  kept  and  wor- 
shipped by  the  ignorant  and  superstitious  inhabitants  of 
the  vicinity.  It  is  nothing  more  or  less  than  a rude 
wooden  statue  of  our  Saviour.  The  marvellous  story 
related  of  it  is  as  follows  : Some  centuries  ago,  when 
the  good  people  of  Cuencame  were  surrounded  and 
likely  to  fall  into  the  hands  of  their  enemies,  this  statue 
suddenly  appeared  in  their  midst,  and  by  wondrous 
deeds  of  prowess  gave  them  the  battle  and  rescued  them 
from  their  foes.  The  statue  was  then  borne  in  triumph 
to  the  town,  a niche  set  apart  for  it  in  the  church,  and 
from  that  day  to  this  it  has  been  held  in  especial  rever- 
ence, and  looked  upon  as  the  guardian  and  protector  of 
the  place. 

It  was  not  without  regret  we  now  learned  that  Col- 
onel Yelasco  was  to  leave  us,  the  jurisdiction  of  the 
State  of  Durango  extending  no  farther,  and  his  men  be- 
ing required  on  the  northern  frontier  to  guard  the  inhab- 
itants against  Indians.  We  knew,  however,  that  his 
influence  would  have  considerable  effect  upon  the  offi- 
cer who  was  to  take  charge  of  the  prisoners  as  far  as 
Zacatecas,  and  this  fact  partially  consoled  us  for  the 
loss  of  one  who  had  ever  acted  towards  us  with  kind- 
ness and  consideration. 

The  pert  little  Castilian  with  whom  I was  quartered  had 
two  or  three  pretty  and  well-dressed  daughters,  girls  per- 
haps of  sixteen,  eighteen,  and  twenty  years,  one  of  whom 
saw  my  gold  watch  lying  upon  a table  in  our  sleeping 
apartment,  where  I had  accidentally  left  it.  It  was  a 
pretty  watch  enough  to  look  at,  but  the  rough  wooden 
statue  in  the  adjoining  church  was  just  as  good  a chron- 


YET  ANOTHER  COMMANDER. 


119 


icier  of  the  passing  hours,  it  having  been  injured  in  my 
fall  before  leaving  Texas.  The  girl  fell  in  love  with  it, 
however,  and  mentioned  her  ardent  desire  to  become 
its  possessor  to  her  father,  who  hinted  to  Van  Ness  that 
he  would  be  glad  to  purchase  it  for  her  sake.  He  ap- 
proached this  subject  very  delicately : I was  an  invited 
guest  at  his  house,  and  his  lofty  Castilian  pride  revolted 
at  the  idea  of  asking  me  to  sell  him  the  article,  or  at  all 
events  he  pretended  that  it  did.  Van  Ness  at  once 
communicated  to  me  the  wish  of  our  host,  adding  that 
he  wanted  the  watch  for  one  of  his  daughters.  I had 
no  desire  to  dispose  of  the  trinket,  but  told  my  comrade 
to  inform  the  Spaniard  that  he  might  have  it  for  a hun- 
dred dollars.  I thought  the  price  would  frighten  our 
host  out  of  all  idea  of  purchasing,  but  its  effect  was  quite 
the  reverse.  He  immediately  counted  out  the  sum  in 
good  Mexican  dollars,  and  with  many  protestations 
hoped  I would  excuse  the  liberty  he  had  thus  taken  in 
asking  a guest  to  sell  his  private  jewelry.  Consider- 
ing the  injury  the  wratch  had  sustained,  the  price  was 
far  above  its  worth ; still  I was  very  unwilling  to  part 
with  it.  It  had  been  my  companion  for  several  years ; 
I had  carried  it  thousands  of  miles,  and  had  succeeded 
in  saving  it  from  the  hands  of  the  rascal  Salezar.  Yet 
I could  not  retract ; and  the  next  morning  I saw  the 
watch  gracing  the  girdle  of  la  Senorita  Juana. 

The  morning  after  we  reached  Cuencame  Colonel 
Velasco  called  us  together  and  took  his  leave,  at  the 
same  time  introducing  the  commandante  of  our  new 
guard,  Captain  Roblado.  The  latter  had  a face  even 
more  sinister  in  its  expression  than  that  of  Colonel  V., 
and  in  this  instance  the  actions  of  the  man  did  not  belie 
his  features.  He  had  been  many  years  in  the  Mexican 
service,  possessed  naturally  a sour  and  morose  disposi- 


120 


DELICIOUS  BREAD. 


tion,  with  a petulance  and  ill-humour  he  but  half  con- 
cealed, even  if  he  attempted  so  to  do.  If  one  anecdote 
told  of  him  was  true,  he  certainly  had  no  reason  to  en- 
tertain any  uncommon  friendship  for  the  Texans.  It 
was  said  that  he  had  received  a severe  wound  from  one 
of  Colonel  Jordan’s  men,  in  the  celebrated  retreat  of  the 
latter  from  Saltillo,  after  having  been  treacherously  be- 
trayed into  the  hands  of  the  Centralists  by  the  Federal 
General  Canales.  In  the  retreat  of  Jordan,  Roblado 
commanded  a company  of  dragoons  sent  out  to  cut  him 
off.  By  a single  fire  from  the  Texans,  but  little  more 
than  a hundred  in  number,  some  fifty  or  sixty  Mexicans 
were  tumbled  dead  from  their  horses,  Roblado  receiving 
a wound  in  the  leg  which  crippled  him  for  life.  Al- 
though Colonel  Velasco,  his  superior  in  rank,  had  order- 
ed him  to  treat  us  with  every  civility,  which  order  he 
obeyed  to  a certain  extent,  it  was  invariably  with  a 
spirit  of  reluctance. 

The  bread  of  Cuencame  is  noted  throughout  Mexico 
for  its  whiteness  and  sweetness,  and  probably  a better 
article  is  not  made  in  the  wide  world.  Of  this  Colonel 
Velasco  ordered  a large  quantity  for  our  use  on  the 
road,  and  he  also  ordered  the  fattest  oxen  to  be  pur- 
chased and  killed  on  the  journey.  This  was  the  man 
we  had  supposed  a tiger  in  disposition,  until  his  ac- 
tions proved  him  a liberal,  mild,  and  courteous  officer. 

Every  preparation  having  at  length  been  completed, 
we  left  Cuencame  on  the  morning  of  the  22d  of  De- 
cember. We  passed  the  first  night  at  a poor  rancho 
by  the  roadside,  and  the  next  evening  reached  the  ha- 
cienda of  Juan  Perez.  An  American  physician,  a res- 
ident of  some  town  near  the  city  of  Durango,  had  ac- 
companied us  the  first  day’s  march  from  Cuencame. 
He  could  give  us  no  other  information  in  relation  to 


HOW  TO  DEAL  WITH  AN  ALCALDE. 


121 


Colonel  Cooke’s  party  than  that  they  had  been  tolerably 
well  treated  on  the  route  they  had  taken. 

After  a long  and  extremely  fatiguing  march,  over  a 
gravelly  and  stony  road,  we  reached  a poor  village  late 
on  the  afternoon  of  the  24th.  Many  of  our  men  were 
very  foot-sore  and  completely  tired  out  with  the  long 
march,  so  much  so  that  they  declared  themselves  really 
unable  to  pursue  the  journey  on  foot  the  next  day.  T o 
allow  them  a day’s  rest  was  deemed  utterly  impossible 
by  Roblado,  and  he  immediately  sent  an  order  summon- 
ing the  alcalde  before  him.  That  functionary  soon  ap- 
peared, when  Roblado  told  him  that  he  must  provide  a 
hundred  jackasses  for  the  use  of  the  men.  The  alcalde 
replied  that  the  place  was  extremely  poor,  and  that 
he  could  not  furnish  more  than  ten  of  the  animals  re- 
quired. 

“ I am  a man  of  few  words,”  answered  Captain  Ro- 
blado. “ I want  one  hundred  jackasses  for  the  men  to 
ride  to-morrow.  If  they  are  not  here  by  six  o’clock  in 
the  morning  I’ll  make  a jackass  of  you,  Sehor  Alcalde, 
pack  you  with  the  heaviest  man  in  the  crowd,  and  make 
you  carry  him  to  San  Sebastian.” 

“ Si,  Sehor,”  said  the  terrified  alcalde,  and  the  next 
morning  the  requisite  number  of  animals  were  on  the 
spot  in  readiness.  Here  was  another  instance  of  the 
supremacy  the  military  power  exerts  over  the  civil  in 
Mexico.  Not  a cent  was  paid  the  poor  owners  of  the 
animals  for  services  thus  extorted,  and  Roblado  mani- 
fested as  little  compunction  on  the  occasion  as  a bear 
would  while  robbing  a beehive.  I will  not  give  the 
man  credit  for  having  thus  mounted  our  men  through 
feelings  of  humanity,  believing  him  to  have  been  actua- 
ted by  no  other  motive  than  that  of  getting  us  on  as 
fast  as  possible. 

Vol.  II.— L 


122 


A MISERABLE  TOWN. 


A tiresome  march  of  some  thirty-five  miles,  over  a 
rough  and  uneven  country,  brought  us  to  a dirty,  mis- 
erable little  hole  which  is  dignified  with  the  high-sound- 
ing name  of  San  Sebastian.  This  place  is  situated  in  a 
small,  sterile  valley,  amid  barren  hills,  the  only  vegeta- 
tion appearing  upon  their  sides  being  a few  stunted 
prickly  pears  and  thornbushes.  How  the  two  or  three 
hundred  inhabitants  obtain  a living  is  a perfect  mys- 
tery ; in  fact,  they  do  not  more  than  half  live.  Their 
little  huts  are  built  of  small  stones  and  mud,  without 
doors  or  windows — they  have  neither  chairs  nor  beds, 
nor  in  fact  furniture  of  any  kind — in  fine,  are  infinitely 
worse  off  than  Choctaw  or  Cherokee  Indians,  not  only 
as  regards  clothing  and  food,  but  habitations  and  all  the 
necessaries  of  life. 

It  was  on  Christmas  day  that  we  reached  San  Se- 
bastian, and  anything  but  “ a merry  Christmas”  did  we 
spend  in  the  wretched  hole.  Many  of  us  had  intended 
to  “ keep”  the  day  and  night  somewhat  after  the  man- 
ner of  our  country,  but  we  could  not  procure  eggs  and 
milk  enough  in  the  town  to  manufacture  even  a tumbler 
of  egg-nog.  We  were  therefore  compelled  to  make 
our  Christmas  dinner  of  a piece  of  beef  roasted  on  a 
stick,  with  no  other  than  bread  and  water  accompani- 
ments. 

While  roaming  about  the  town  after  nightfall,  in 
company  with  one  of  our  officers,  and  inquiring  for 
milk  and  eggs  of  every  man,  woman,  and  child  we  met, 
we  at  length  encountered  a couple  of  half-dressed  girls, 
standing  within  a few  steps  of  one  of  the  houses.  We 
stopped,  and  were  about  to  ask  them  if  they  had  the 
articles  we  were  in  search  of,  when  they  set  up  a ter- 
rible scream,  and  scampered  into  the  hovel  as  though 
frightened  out  of  the  little  sense  that  had  been  vouch- 


A CHRISTMAS  FROLIC. 


123 


safed  them.  Some  half  dozen  starved  curs  issued  from 
the  doorless  entrance  and  commenced  yelping  at  us, 
and  this  appeared  to  be  a signal  for  every  dog  in  town 
to  join  the  chorus.  Fortunately  for  us,  there  was  no 
lack  of  stones,  of  a suitable  size  for  throwing,  in  the  vi- 
cinity, and  I am  strongly  inclined  to  believe  that  sev- 
eral of  the  barking  whelps  had  good  reasons  for  regret- 
ting that  they  had  attacked  us — one,  I know,  must  have 
required  careful  and  unremitting  nursing  before  he 
could  ever  hope  to  raise  another  bark  at  a stranger. 

On  returning  to  our  quarters,  some  half  an  hour  af- 
terward, we  found  that  an  exceedingly  grave  charge 
had  already  been  entered  against  us  by  the  relatives  or 
friends  of  the  frightened  girls,  the  complainants  inform- 
ing Roblado  that  we  had  not  only  insulted  but  chased 
them,  and  that  had  it  not  been  for  their  faithful  dogs  it 
wras  impossible  to  imagine  where  we  might  have  stop- 
ped ! This  was  too  rich.  We  told  Roblado  the  cir- 
cumstances exactly  as  they  occurred,  with  one  excep- 
tion : as  there  was  a remote  probability  that  the  plain- 
tiffs might  obtain  a bill  for  damages  sustained  by  their 
dogs,  we  did  not  even  hint  to  Roblado  our  knowledge 
of  the  virtue  possessed  by  stones,  or  that  either  of  us 
had  ever  thrown  one  in  our  lives.  Thus  ended  our 
Christmas  frolic  at  San  Sebastian. 

At  an  early  hour  the  next  morning  we  were  on  the 
road.  I looked  around  me,  as  we  filed  through  the 
narrow  and  crooked  lane  leading  from  the  town,  ex- 
pecting to  see  an  occasional  dead  dog,  or  a limping  one 
at  least ; but  the  search  was  fruitless.  A thousand 
open  mouths  were  grinning,  growling,  grinding  their 
teeth,  and  barking  at  us  at  every  step — the  killed  and 
wounded  had  probably  been  provided  for.  Has  any 
one  of  my  readers,  in  his  journeyings,  ever  noticed  that 


124 


ORANGE-TREES. 


the  poorest  towns  and  families  always  have  the  most 
and  the  meanest  dogs  ? If  he  has  not,  I have,  often. 

We  had  proceeded  a mile,  or  probably  less,  when 
suddenly  one  of  our  men  was  seen  rising  in  the  air, 
somewhat  after  the  manner  of  a rocket,  and  then  de- 
scending with  even  greater  velocity.  He  had  only 
been  hoisted  by  one  of  those  peculiar  kick-ups  which 
no  animal  but  a donkey  can  give,  but  fortunately  was 
only  slightly  injured.  Many  of  the  animals  which  had 
been  pressed  into  the  service  by  Roblado,  although  the 
forced  contract  with  the  alcalde  extended  no  farther 
than  to  San  Sebastian,  were  still  retained  to  carry  our 
more  lame  and  infirm  comrades ; had  it  not  been  for 
this,  many  of  them  would  have  suffered  dreadfully,  as 
the  march  was  nearly  forty  miles  in  length.  How 
these  animals  sustain  themselves  is  unaccountable  ; for 
they  had  nothing  to  eat  for  the  thirty-six  hours  they 
were  with  us,  and  then  had  to  retrace  their  steps  over 
the  same  ground,  and  with  the  same  nourishment. 
They  stopped  over  night  at  San  Sebastian,  going  and 
coming ; but  there  was  not  food  enough  in  the  vicinity 
of  that  town  to  afford  a respectable  maintenance  for  a 
small  flock  of  killdees. 

Just  at  dusk  we  entered  the  town  of  Saenea,  deep  in 
a narrow  but  fertile  and  beautiful  valley,  which  is  bor- 
dered on  every  side  by  frowning  hills  and  mountains. 
The  location  of  this  town,  which  contains  some  two 
thousand  inhabitants,  is  picturesque  in  the  extreme, 
and  in  addition  it  is  one  of  the  cleanest  places  we  met 
with  in  the  country.  Here,  for  the  first  time,  we  saw 
the  orange-tree  in  full  bearing.  Although  we  had  been 
travelling  for  near  a month  in  the  latitude  in  which 
that  delicious  fruit  arrives  at  perfection,  the  elevation 
of  the  table-lands  we  had  journeyed  over  made  the  air 


THE  MAGUEY-TREE. 


125 


too  cold  for  it  to  thrive.  At  Saenea,  too,  we  for  the 
first  time  saw  the  celebrated  maguey  plant,  from  which 
pulque , the  principal  beverage  of  the  country,  is  extract- 
ed. The  process  of  gathering  this  fluid  is  by  cutting 
off  the  centre  shoot  of  the  plant,  in  the  hollow  of  which, 
holding  about  a pint,  the  pulque  finds  a basin.  This 
little  basin  fills  two  or  three  times  a day  with  the  sap 
of  the  plant,  which,  after  being  slightly  fermented,  is 
drunk  in  immense  quantities  by  the  natives. 

The  process  of  extracting  the  sap  from  the  basin  is 
primitive,  and  not  well  adapted  to  make  it  palatable  to 
all  tastes.  The  person  to  whom  this  part  of  the  busi- 
ness is  intrusted  has  a long  tube  made  expressly  for  the 
purpose,  one  end  of  which  he  inserts  in  the  basin  and 
the  other  in  his  mouth,  and  then,  by  exercising  what  is 
generally  termed  the  power  of  suction,  he  draws  the 
liquid  from  the  fountain-head  to  his  own.  It  next  finds 
its  way  to  some  skin  or  trough,  and  after  being  allowed 
to  ferment,  is  considered  fit  to  drink.  Foreigners  be- 
come extremely  fond  of  it  after  much  use,  and  many 
of  them  drink  it  to  even  greater  excess  than  the  natives. 
For  myself,  one  swallow  was  quite  sufficient — I never 
tasted  it  a second  time.  Some  of  the  Mexican  officers  in- 
sisted that  it  was  very  refreshing,  and  palatable  withal, 
and  pressed  me  to  try  another  cup.  I told  them  I had 
little  doubt  it  was  a very  fine  drink  to  those  who  liked 
it,  but  that  it  did  not  exactly  suit  my  taste — and  here 
the  matter  ended.  To  me  it  had  the  flavour  of  stale 
small-beer  mixed  with  sour  milk,  and  the  odour  of  half- 
tainted  meat  as  it  approached  my  nose.  Moreover,  the 
system  of  hydraulics  by  which  the  suckers  first  extract 
ed  it  was  not  altogether  such  as  met  with  my  approval. 

I am  not  sure  that  I should  have  taken  a single  swal- 

L 2 


126 


VALUE  OF  THE  MAGUEV. 


low,  had  I not  been  assured  that  it  had  first  undergone 
a ten  days’  fermentation. 

Of  itself,  pulque  is  slightly  intoxicating,  but  by  distil- 
lation a very  strong  liquor  is  made  from  it,  called  mes- 
cal, or  aguardiente  de  maguey.  This  is  also  a very 
common  drink  among  the  lower  orders  of  Mexico,  who 
are  much  addicted  to  intemperance.  The  soldiers  will 
almost  invariably  get  intoxicated  upon  mescal  when- 
ever they  have  the  opportunity,  regardless  of  the  se- 
vere flogging  they  are  certain  to  receive  for  the  trans- 
gression. 

The  abuses  of  the  maguey  end  with  the  mescal,  but 
its  valuable  uses  do  not  cease  with  the  pulque.  From 
its  leaves,  which  are  frequently  eight  or  ten  feet  in 
length  by  one  foot  in  width,  not  only  thread  but  rope  is 
made,  both  strong  and  durable.  The  fibrous  part  is 
first  twisted  into  thread,  which  is  useful  for  an  endless 
variety  of  purposes,  and  this  can  at  any  time  be  manu- 
factured into  rope  of  any  size.  Immense  plantations 
of  maguey,  where  it  is  planted  in  rows  some  ten  feet 
apart,  and  cultivated  with  great  care,  may  be  found  in 
the  vicinities  of  Guanajuato,  Queretaro,  Mexico,  and 
Puebla,  and  yield  large  revenues  to  their  proprietors. 

As  we  were  about  starting  from  Saenea,  some  thirty 
miserable,  half-dressed,  and,  to  judge  from  their  appear- 
ance, half-starved  wretches,  were  taken  from  a prison 
adjoining  our  quarters  and  marched  into  the  plaza. 
Who  or  what  they  were  we  could  not  imagine,  but  that 
they  were  arrant  knaves  and  cut-throats  was  plainly 
visible  in  their  countenances.  The  officer  who  had 
charge  of  them  immediately  produced  a long  rope,  with 
shorter  ropes  attached  to  it  at  intervals  of  about  a yard. 
Each  end  of  these  shorter  ropes  was  made  into  a slip- 
noose.  the  distance  of  the  noose  from  the  main  cord 


INVOLUNTARY  VOLUNTEERS. 


127 


being  eighteen  inches  or  two  feet.  While  we  were  al- 
ternately watching  this  singular  contrivance  and  cast- 
ing our  eyes  at  the  group  of  ragged  wretches  around 
it,  the  officer  called  upon  one  of  them  to  advance  to  the 
head  of  the  rope.  His  right  arm  was  then  drawn 
through  the  noose,  the  officer  roughly  pulling  it  tight. 
Another  of  the  jail-birds  was  next  made  fast  by  his  left 
arm  to  the  opposite  end  of  the  short  rope,  and  in  this 
way  the  whole  gang  were  strung  together,  and  marched 
off  under  a strong  guard  directly  upon  our  route. 

On  inquiry,  one  of  the  Mexican  officers  told  us  they 
were  volunteers,  on  their  way  to  the  city  of  Mexico  to 
join  the  army.  The  real  truth  was,  they  were  convicts 
of  the  worst  description,  murderers  and  thieves,  on  their 
way  to  the  capital  to  be  manufactured  into  soldiers  : 
yet  abandoned  as  were  these  wretches,  some  of  them 
had  mothers  and  sisters  who  clung  to  them  until  the 
last,  and  were  with  difficulty  forced  away.  _ With  tears, 
they  gave  their  vagabond  sons  and  brothers  the  last 
remnants  of  tortillas  and  chile  in  their  possession,  and 
followed  them  with  their  eyes  until  lost  in  the  distance. 
How  strong  is  a mother’s  or  a sister’s  love  ! 

After  being  washed  and  cleaned  up,  and  having 
uniforms  put  upon  them,  these  convicts  are  drilled 
until  they  become  familiar  with  the  use  of  arms  ; but 
they  can  never  make  good  soldiers.  Our  own  men, 
who  were  in  every  way  better  treated,  and  guarded 
with  far  less  strictness,  made  themselves  not  a little 
merry  at  the  expense  of  the  different  strings  of  “ Invol- 
untary Volunteers ,”  or  “ United  Mexicans ,”  as  they  were 
pleased  to  term  them,  whom  we  afterward  met  on  our 
journey. 

Immediately  on  leaving  Saenea,  our  road  led  us  up 
the  steep  sides  of  a mountain,  difficult  to  climb,  and  of 


128 


WORN  ASPECT  OF  MEXICO. 


tiresome  length.  Once  at  the  summit,  however,  we 
were  partially  repaid  for  our  toil  by  the  prospect  below 
us.  Cleanly  and  neatly  built  as  was  the  town  we  had 
just  left,  and  beautiful  as  we  thought  its  situation  while 
gazing  from  the  plaza  at  the  bold  and  rugged  mount- 
ains on  every  side,  distance  now  certainly  lent  an  en- 
chantment we  had  not  perceived  before.  Irrigating 
canals  were  seen  extending  in  every  direction  ; small 
patches  of  maguey,  with  their  long,  coarse  leaves,  gave 
a picturesque  air  to  the  scenery  ; the  orange  groves, 
now  concealing,  now  disclosing  the  dwelling  of  some 
more  wealthy  proprietor,  were  clad  in  richest  foliage, 
and  yellow  with  golden  fruit,  although  January  was 
about  closing  the  doors  of  the  old  year ; the  whole 
scene  was  mellowed  by  the  distance,  and  was  one  of 
that  varied  and  subdued  beauty  seldom  met  with  in 
other  lands  than  Mexico. 

Our  march,  in  the  earlier  part  of  this  day,  was  over 
a country  broken  by  rugged  hills,  and  desolate  from 
lack  of  vegetation.  In  the  afternoon,  however,  we  came 
to  a more  level  tract,  and  ere  nightfall  reached  a large 
and  wealthy  estate  known  as  the  Rancho  Grande,  hav- 
ing on  it  a neat  church,  and  a new  and  commodious 
meson  for  the  reception  of  travellers.  In  all  my  jour- 
neyings  through  Mexico,  I do  not  remember  having 
seen  any  other  house  bearing  the  evident  marks  of  re- 
cent construction,  or  a single  dwelling  in  progress. 
All  presented  the  strongest  tokens  of  age — many  were 
crumbling  and  tottering  under  the  influence  of  decay. 
In  that  falling  Republic  the  traveller  sees  no  new  towns 
springing  into  existence,  no  improvements  in  those  that 
are  already  built,  none  of  that  bustle  and  activity  which 
indicate  a healthy  state ; but  on  the  contrary,  such  of 
the  villages  and  cities  as  are  not  stationary  are  going 


MEXICAN  MINES. 


129 


to  ruin,  and  will  continue  to  do  so,  slowly,  perhaps,  but 
surely,  unless  wars  and  revolutions  cease,  or  the  coun- 
try falls  into  other  hands.  Of  the  former  there  is  little 
hope  ; for  such  is  the  nature  of  the  population,  and  so 
jealous,  selfish,  and  ambitious  are  the  men  by  whom 
that  population  is  handled  and  governed,  that  no  confi- 
dence can  be  placed  in  the  stability  of  any  form  of  gov- 
ernment that  can  be  set  up. 

At  Rancho  Grande  we  met  an  American,  who  in- 
formed us  that  Colonel  Cooke’s  party  had  passed 
through  the  large  mining  town  of  Fresnillo  about  three 
weeks  before,  and  that  we  should  probably  reach  the 
same  place  the  next  day.  The  name  of  this  American 
I do  not  recollect ; I only  remember  that  he  said  he 
was  making  his  way  out  of  Mexico  as  fast  as  a good 
mule  would  allow  him,  but  the  cause  of  his  hot  haste 
he  did  not  mention. 

As  our  informant  conjectured,  we  arrived  at  Fres- 
nillo early  in  the  afternoon  of  the  next  day.  It  is  a 
town  containing  some  fifteen  or  twenty  thousand  in- 
habitants, has  a large  square  with  a costly  fountain  in 
the  centre,  and  several  large  and  showy  churches. 
Within  a mile  are  the  celebrated  mines  of  Fresnillo, 
among  the  most  profitable,  at  the  present  time,  in  Mex- 
ico, if  we  were  rightly  informed.  They  are  worked  by 
steam,  and  the  general  superintendence  is  in  the  hands 
of  Englishmen,  although  an  American  gentleman  has 
charge  of  the  hacienda.  I have  forgotten  the  revenue 
of  this  celebrated  mine,  which  is  owned  by  a Mexican 
family;  but  it  is  immense.  The  entire  population  of 
Fresnillo  derive  their  support  in  some  way  from  the 
mines  ; yet  the  most  squalid  poverty  is  to  be  met  at  ev- 
ery turn. 

During  the  afternoon  and  evening  we  were  visited 


130 


A PLEASANT  EVENING. 


by  several  of  the  foreigners,  and  after  dark  a small  par- 
ty of  us  spent  three  or  four  hours  very  agreeably  with 
a young  Englishman  employed  about  the  mines.  His 
residence  was  at  some  distance' — too  far  for  us  to  visit 
• — but  he  appeared  to  be  quite  at  home  at  the  “ Tienda 
del  Gato,”  or  Shop  of  the  Cat — a singular  name  this  for 
a confectionery  or  coffee-house,  but  such  has  the  owner 
given  it.  In  it  was  one  of  the  largest  cats  I ever  saw, 
and  over  the  door  was  a painting  which  the  proprietor 
informed  us  was  a likeness  of  the  animal.  The  paint- 
ing was  a most  atrocious  daub,  and  absolutely  required 
some  key  to  explain  the  intention  of  the  artist.  Had 
the  animal  within  been  a kangaroo  or  a grizzly  bear, 
the  strange  figure  over  the  door  would  have  done  as 
well  for  either  as  for  the  cat. 

After  being  comfortably  seated,  our  Englishman  man- 
ufactured a generous  bowl  of  excellent  egg-nog.  Over 
this,  and  with  the  usual  accompaniments  of  smoking, 
story-telling,  and  anecdotes  of  travel,  we  passed  a very 
pleasant  evening,  forgetting  that  we  were  prisoners  in 
a strange  land.  Not  until  midnight  did  we  return  to 
the  quarters  provided  for  us  at  a meson,  our  acquaint- 
ance promising  to  see  us  before  we  set  off  in  the  morn- 
ing. He  said  that  the  foreigners  of  Fresnillo  had  made 
up  a liberal  subscription  for  Colonel  Cooke’s  party,  and 
that  they  would  endeavour  to  do  something  for  the 
more  unfortunate  among  our  men. 

Although  many  of  the  prisoners  were  worn  down  by 
our  long  and  tiresome  marches,  we  remained  at  Fres- 
nillo but  one  night.  Roblado  said  that  Zacatecas  was 
only  some  fifty  miles  distant,  and  that  there  we  should 
be  allowed  a rest  of  two  days. 

Mexican-like,  the  streets  of  Fresnillo  were  thronged 
as  we  left  it.  The  prisons  of  the  place  had  been  deliv- 


COURTESY  OF  THE  MEXICANS. 


131 


ered  of  sixty  or  seventy  convicts,  hardened  malefactors, 
whose  very  aspect  showed  a knowledge  of  every  crime 
in  the  calendar.  These  were  pinioned  after  the  man- 
ner of  those  at  Saenea,  attached  to  the  same  rope,  and 
driven  under  a strong  guard  before  us.  Not  the  least 
notice  did  the  inhabitants  of  Fresnillo  take  of  these 
wretches — it  was  no  uncommon  thing  with  them  to  see 
their  fellow-beings  tied  and  driven  like  brutes  to  the 
shambles  ; but  Texans  they  had  never  seen  before,  and 
to  catch  a glimpse  at  us  they  rushed,  squeezed,  hustled, 
and  crowded  the  streets,  their  curiosity  raised  to  the 
highest  pitch. 

I will  say  one  thing  in  favour  of  the  Mexican  popula- 
tion generally — they  seldom  manifested  any  feelings  of 
exultation  in  our  presence.  On  the  contrary,  the  mild 
and  subdued  eyes  of  the  poor  Indians  were  turned  upon 
us  invariably  in  pity,  while  the  crowds  through  which 
we  passed,  in  all  the  large  cities,  appeared  rather  to  be 
actuated  by  commiseration  than  triumph  or  hatred,  Jews 
and  heretics  though  they  thought  and  termed  us.  With 
all  their  bad  qualities,  the  Mexican  people,  as  a body, 
are  kind  and  benevolent,  and  disposed  to  grant  every 
favour  and  indulgence  to  strangers  who  have  been  un- 
fortunate. Let  it  be  understood  that  I am  speaking  of 
the  lower  orders,  and  consequently  the  mass.  In  a 
journey  of  over  two  thousand  miles  through  the  coun- 
try, during  which  we  saw  many  of  the  largest  towns 
and  cities,  I do  not  recollect  that  we  were  publicly  in- 
sulted on  more  than  one  occasion  after  leaving  El  Paso. 
This  speaks  much  for  the  lower  orders,  when  it  is  un- 
derstood that  they  might  at  any  time  have  practised 
many  acts  of  insolence  towards  us  with  impunity. 

On  our  first  day’s  march  from  Fresnillo,  a mail-stage 
passed  us  on  its  way  to  Zacatecas.  It  was  manufac- 


132 


THE  SMALL-POX. 


tured  at  Troy,  New- York,  was  of  the  same  class  as  the 
stages  in  use  in  the  United  States,  and  as  it  rattled  by, 
full  of  passengers,  forcibly  reminded  us  of  freedom  and 
of  home. 

At  night  we  reached  a poor  rancho  called  La  Caleta, 
where  we  stopped  to  sleep.  Here  one  of  our  men,  who 
had  been  complaining  for  two  or  three  days,  exhibited 
unequivocal  symptoms  of  that  loathsome  disease,  the 
small-pox.  Eruptions  appeared  on  every  part  of  his 
body,  he  became  partially  delirious,  and  although  we 
hoped  that  the  disease  might  prove  one  of  a lighter  na- 
ture than  appearances  indicated,  all  were  disappointed. 
It  was  small-pox  of  the  worst  type,  and  as  there  was  no 
guarding  against  the  infection,  each  one  of  our  party 
could  only  hope  that  he  might  not  become  its  victim. 


AEPROACH  TO  ZACATECAS. 


133 


CHAPTER  VII. 

Approach  to  Zacatecas. — Tedious  mountain  March. — Picturesque  View. — 
First  Sight  of  Zacatecas. — Its  singular  Situation. — Specimen  of  Roblado’s 
Vanity.— Entrance  into  Zacatecas. — Character  of  the  Inhabitants. — Pas- 
sage through  the  City. — Arrival  at  a deserted  Mining  House. — Miserable 
Quarters. — -Permission  obtained  to  visit  the  City. — Inquisitive  Urchins. — 
Arrival  at  an  Irish  Restaurat. — A sumptuous  Breakfast. — Visit  to  a New- 
York  Gentleman. — A Stroll  through  Zacatecas. — Dinner  at  the  Restaurat. 
— Invitation  to  another  Dinner. — A goodly  Company. — Painting  of  Wash- 
ington.— A pleasant  Evening  in  Perspective. — Unrealized  Hopes. — Again 
at  our  old  Quarters  at  the  Mining  House. — Mr.  Falconer  in  Trouble. — 
Mexican  Justice. — Dr.  Whittaker’s  Mode  of  getting  rid  of  a troublesome 
Sentinel.— Subscription  raised  for  the  Prisoners. — Liberality  of  a Mexican 
Lawyer. — Departure  from  Zacatecas. — Convent  of  Guadalupe.  — Santa 
Anna,  and  his  Fight  with  the  Zacatecans. — Sack  of  the  City. — Refugio. — 
Arrival  at  Ojo  Caliente. — A Bathing  Scene. — Customs  of  the  Mexican 
Women,  and  their  Fondness  for  Swimming. — El  Carro. — Arrival  at  Sali- 
na. — A Kentucky  Circus  Proprietor.— His  Adventure  with  Roblado. — The 
Mexican  House  of  Entertainment,  or  Meson. — The  Foreigner  meets  with 
but  poor  Fare. — Modes  of  living,  and  Customs  of  the  Lower  Orders  of 
Mexico. 

On  the  morning  of  December  30th  we  commenced 
ascending  the  high  range  of  mountains  to  the  north- 
ward of  Zacatecas.  A very  good  road  winds  up  the 
sides,  but  the  ascent  was  steep  and  tiresome.  Small 
parties'  of  women,  driving  asses  and  mules  from  mar- 
ket, were  passed  as  we  toiled  up,  and  exhibited  no  little 
astonishment  as  they  gazed  at  us. 

On  reaching  the  summit  we  had  a fine  view  of  the 
valley  through  which  we  had  just  travelled,  the  distant 
smoke  of  the  mines  at  Fresnillo  being  plainly  visible, 
with  the  numerous  little  ranchos  we  had  passed.  Be- 
fore us,  and  on  different  points  of  the  mountain-tops,  the 
silver  mines  of  Zacatecas  were  seen — many  of  them 
Vol.  II.— M 


134 


CAPTAIN  ROBLADO’S  VANITY. 


deserted,  while  others  were  still  in  operation.  As  we 
descended  the  mountain,  the  parties  of  market-women 
became  still  larger  and  more  frequent.  We  continued 
our  winding  way  down  the  sides  until  within  half  a 
mile  of  the  city,  wondering  where  a spot  could  be  found 
for  the  habitations  of  men  in  a vicinity  so  wild ; for 
mountain  was  piled  upon  mountain  on  every  hand,  with 
no  other  passes  between  them  than  yawning  barrancas, 
or  deep  ravines.  We  could  not  believe  that  we  were 
near  one  of  the  richest  and  proudest  cities  of  Mexico, 
until  a sudden  turn  in  the  road  brought  it  fully  into 
view,  with  all  its  domes,  spires,  palaces,  churches,  and 
convents.  A more  picturesque  or  grander  spectacle 
can  hardly  be  imagined  than  the  city  of  Zacatecas  as 
entered  from  the  north.  It  appears  to  be  hemmed  in 
on  almost  every  side  by  high  and  precipitous  mount- 
ains, and  of  course  has  but  scanty  suburbs.  The  deep 
ravine  in  which  it  is  built  is  filled  with  houses,  even  to 
the  very  base  of  the  mountains,  which  seem,  in  many 
places,  ready  to  slide  and  fall  upon  the  town  below 
them.  The  streets  are  not  very  wide,  but  are  almost 
straight,  and  many  of  the  buildings  are  of  large  size, 
handsome  architecture,  and  costly  and  elaborate  work- 
manship. 

Before  we  entered  the  city  a halt  was  called,  for  no 
other  purpose  than  that  Captain  Roblado  might  change 
his  ordinary  fatigue-dress  for  a gaudy  uniform,  and 
mount  a dashing  bay  horse  upon  which  to  “ show  off”  at 
the  head  of  a body  of  ragged  Texan  prisoners.  With 
a loud  blast  from  the  Mexican  trumpets  we  were  then 
ordered  to  advance.  Housetops,  balconies,  doors,  and 
windows  were  filled  with  women  and  children  on  either 
side  of  us,  and  a crowd  so  dense  thronged  the  streets 
that  every  exertion  of  the  dragoons  was  needed  to 


POOR  LODGINGS. 


135 


force  a way  through  the  ragged,  dirty,  and  squalid 
mass.  On  many  occasions  the  lower  orders  of  this 
city  have  manifested  great  hostility  towards  foreigners, 
not  a few  unfortunate  heretics,  or  Jews  as  they  are 
more  frequently  termed,  having  been  hooted  and  stoned 
from  its  gates  ; but  latterly  this  hostility  has  in  a great 
measure  subsided,  and  not  an  insult  was  offered  to  us 
by  a single  individual.  It  may  be  that  our  forlorn  and 
destitute  appearance,  and  a belief  that  the  government 
would  punish  us  with  the  utmost  severity,  chilled  any 
feeling  of  hostility  into  silence.  Many  of  the  foreigners 
on  the  road  openly  expressed  their  fears  that  we  might 
be  ill  used  and  insulted  at  Zacatecas,  but  such  was  not 
the  case. 

We  were  taken  completely  through  the  city,  passing 
numerous  churches,  convents,  and  palaces,  besides  the 
mineria , or  mint.  One  of  the  buildings  we  passed  was 
a large  quartel,  filled  apparently  with  convicts  destined 
to  swell  the  ranks  of  Santa  Anna’s  army ; and  the 
wretches  gazed  at  us,  as  we  went  by  them,  with  mali- 
cious looks.  After  going  by  the  paseo,  a large  enclo- 
sure set  with  trees,  we  reached  the  outskirts  of  the 
town,  and  then,  after  climbing  a steep  hill,  were  march- 
ed into  an  old  deserted  mining-house,  and  locked  up. 
Two  mouldy,  dirty  rooms  were  set  apart  for  our  use, 
and  even  these  were  not  sufficiently  large  to  accom- 
modate us  all  with  shelter ; but  as  Roblado  would  not 
allow  us  to  go  out  of  the  place  without  permission  from 
the  governor,  there  we  were  obliged  to  take  up  our 
quarters  for  the  night. 

To  show  how  uncomfortably  we  passed  our  first 
night  at  Zacatecas,  I will  describe  the  sleeping  apart- 
ment in  which  I was  allowed  such  space  on  the  floor  as 
I could  cover  with  my  person — no  more.  The  room 


136 


DISCOMFORT  AND  DISEASE. 


was  about  fifty  feet  in  length,  by  twenty-five  in  width, 
destitute  of  windows,  had  a broken  and  uneven  tile  floor 
and  from  having  been  long  deserted,  the  walls  were 
damp,  mouldy,  and  fast  crumbling  to  decay.  No  air  found 
its  way  into  this  gloomy  hole  save  through  the  door, 
and  as  the  night  was  raw  and  cold,  even  this  we  were 
fain  to  close  to  protect  those  immediately  around  it 
from  the  piercing  blasts.  There  were  seventy  of  us  in 
the  room,  all  rolled  up  in  blankets  upon  the  floor  ; and 
when  I add  that  many  of  the  men  were  covered  with 
every  species  of  vermin,  others  suffering  with  distress- 
ing coughs,  and  one  in  the  worst  stage  of  that  loath- 
some disease  the  small-pox,  the  reader  is  under  no  ne- 
cessity of  racking  his  fancy  to  imagine  that  we  passed 
anything  but  a comfortable  or  pleasant  night. 

Early  in  the  morning  Van  Ness  obtained  permission 
for  Falconer,  Doctor  Whittaker,  and  myself  to  accom- 
pany him  into  the  city,  we  all  promising  Roblado  that 
the  confidence  he  placed  in  us  should  not  be  abused. 
Scarcely  had  we  entered  one  of  the  principal  streets 
before  we  were  surrounded  by  a gang  of  half-dressed 
urchins — inquisitive  little  fellows  who  jogged  along  on 
either  side  of  us,  and  examined  us  as  closely  as  they 
would  so  many  strange  beasts  in  a menagerie.  As  we 
passed  the  houses,  the  cry  of  “ Mira ! mira  ! los  Teja- 
nos !”  would  be  heard  from  the  women  and  girls,  and 
then  a general  scampering  and  rush  to  the  doors  and 
windows  to  obtain  a sight  of  our  little  party. 

In  order  to  get  rid  of  the  constantly-increasing  crowd 
of  boys,  we  quickened  our  pace,  and  after  turning  three 
or  four  corners,  reached  a large  and  well-conducted 
restaur  at  kept  by  an  Irishman.  This  we  entered,  and 
immediately  called  for  a breakfast  such  as  we  had  not 
seen  or  tasted  for  eight  months.  It  consisted  simply  of 


A HOME-LIKE  BREAKFAST. 


137 


beefsteaks,  mutton  chops,  boiled  eggs,  Irish  potatoes, 
coffee,  and  claret — all  simple  and  common  enough — • 
but  then  we  had  long  been  unused  even  to  such  a va- 
riety, and  having  a table  before  us,  with  chairs  to  sit  in, 
and  knives  and  forks  to  eat  with,  we  did  ample  justice  to 
our  breakfast.  The  wife  of  our  host,  or  female  superin- 
tendent of  the  establishment — I am  uncertain  which — 
made  her  appearance  just  as  we  had  finished  our  meal. 
She  was  a stout,  fresh,  red-cheeked  Irish  woman,  wore 
a clean,  flowing,  and  neatly-crimped  cap,  and  as  she  was 
the  first  female  I had  seen  since  we  left  the  frontiers  of 
Texas  who  naturally  spoke  my  language,  I could  not 
but  regard  her  as  my  countrywoman,  although  she  had 
a brogue  as  rich  as  that  of  the  lamented  Power  in  Pat 
Rooney. 

Leaving  the  restaurat,  I went  to  a German  tailor  and 
ordered  such  articles  of  clothing  as  I stood  most  in 
need  of,  and  then  had  my  measure  taken  for  a pair  of 
boots  by  a Mexican  shoemaker  next  door.  They  were 
all  to  be  delivered  at  our  quarters  at  the  old  mining- 
house  on  the  following  morning,  and  the  prices  of  the 
different  articles  were  about  the  same  as  are  paid  in 
New-Orleans  and  other  Southern  cities  of  the  United 
States — a trifle  cheaper,  perhaps.  My  next  visit  was 
to  the  office  of  an  American  gentleman,  a New-York- 
er, who  showed  me  every  attention  and  kindness. 
After  writing  several  letters  to  my  friends  in  the  Uni- 
ted States,  we  visited  the  different  churches  and  public 
buildings  of  the  town,  attracting  all  the  while  not  a 
little  attention  from  the  inhabitants,  although  no  rude- 
ness was  offered  us.  The  day  was  cloudy  and  raw, 
with  intervals  of  rain  ; but  regardless  of  this,  we  roamed 
about  the  place  until  dinner-time.  I may  here  add,  that 
from  the  day  on  which  we  left  San  Miguel,  in  October, 
M 2 


138  REVERENCE  FOR  WASHINGTON. 

to  the  time  of  which  I am  speaking — the  1st  of  January 
— we  had  not  been  annoyed  by  an  hour’s  rain. 

At  two  o’clock  we  again  visited  the  restaurat  and  or- 
dered dinner,  selecting  corned  beef,  cabbage,  and  the  like 
plain  “ substantial,”  instead  of  the  tempting  knick-knack- 
eries, decoy  birds,  and  other  luxuries  that  were  hang- 
ing in  profusion  in  the  windows,  or  otherwise  displayed 
with  that  ostentation  so  characteristic  of  eating  estab- 
lishments, as  well  in  Zacatecas  as  in  New-Orleans  or 
New-Yoi’k.  How  much  have  restaurat  keepers,  the 
world  over,  to  answer  for  in  the  way  of  leading  gouty 
gourmands  and  dyspeptic  subjects  into  temptation  by 
these  window  exhibitions  ! 

We  had  scarcely  finished  our  meal  when  a servant 
arrived  with  an  invitation  from  a Mexican  gentleman, 
a lawyer,  to  visit  his  house  and  partake  of  his  hospital- 
ities. We  found  dinner  over  when  we  reached  the 
house,  the  servant  having  been  searching  some  two 
hours  before  he  found  us  ; but  at  a table,  covered  with 
choice  wines  and  cigars,  we  joined  Mr.  Navarro,  Gen- 
eral McLeod,  and  two  or  three  Texan  officers,  besides 
a pair  of  fat,  jolly  priests,  and  in  such  mixed  but  goodly 
company  we  passed  an  hour  very  pleasantly.  Our  kind 
host  was  a distinguished  advocate  of  the  place,  extreme- 
ly liberal  in  his  opinions,  as  were  also  the  priests.  In 
the  centre  of  the  library,  and  occupying  the  most  con- 
spicuous part  of  the  room,  was  a well-executed  painting 
of  General  Washington,  enclosed  in  a splendid  frame. 
Before  we  retired,  our  entertainer  delivered  a neat  eu- 
logy, extremely  well  expressed,  upon  the  “ Father  of 
his  Country,”  manifesting  the  high  regard  in  which  his 
memory  was  held.  This  little  incident  over,  our  party 
took  their  departure,  leaving  our  friends  still  at  the 
table. 


A SAD  DISAPPOINTMENT. 


139 


After  a ramble  of  some  two  hours,  we  once  more  re- 
paired to  the  restaurat  and  ordered  a luxurious  supper, 
determined  to  make  the  most  of  our  time  and  commence 
the  new  year  as  happily  as  possible — at  least  in  the  way 
of  eating.  We  had  scarcely  finished  our  meal  when  a 
party  of  Mexican  gentlemen  invited  us  into  an  adjoining 
room  to  partake  of  wine  with  them.  Shortly  after,  an 
English  gentleman  arrived  from  Fresnillo,  with  whom 
we  had  become  acquainted  there,  and  who  insisted 
upon  our  supping  with  him.  This  pressing  invitation 
we  were  compelled  to  refuse ; but  we  joined  him  in  a 
glass  of  wine.  There  was  to  be  a splendid  New-year’s 
ball  given  that  evening,  to  which  we  had  received  an 
invitation.  Just  as  we  were  going  to  it,  with  full  anti- 
cipations of  finishing  a delightfully-spent  day  by  a ball 
at  night,  one  of  the  officers  of  our  guard,  a bustling,  fret- 
ful little  Mexican,  rushed  into  the  room  out  of  breath, 
and  ordered  us  instantly  to  accompany  him  to  our  dis- 
agreeable quarters  of  the  previous  night.  From  his  ex- 
cited manner  we  could  easily  perceive  that  something 
had  gone  wrong,  but  the  nature  of  his  mission  was  not 
revealed  until  we  had  reached  the  gloomy  prison,  which 
we  had  determined  not  to  visit  until  the  following  morn- 
ing. The  night  was  rainy  and  pitchy  dark,  the  hill 
we  were  obliged  to  climb  was  steep  and  so  slippery 
from  the  moistened  clay  that  we  could  with  difficulty 
make  the  ascent.  Three  or  four  times  we  fell  sprawl- 
ing to  the  earth  while  clambering  to  the  summit ; and 
it  was  not  until  we  were  all  covered  with  mud,  and 
wet  to  the  skin,  that  we  passed  the  portals,  and  the 
heavy  gates  of  the  old  mining-house  were  locked  upon 
us — a sad  termination  to  a pleasantly-spent  day,  but 
such  ever  appeared  to  be  our  fortune. 

We  were  not  long  kept  in  suspense  as  to  the  cause 


140 


A VEXATIOUS  BLUNDER. 


of  this  sudden  and  unlooked-for  movement.  It  appeared 
that  the  Governor  of  Zacatecas  had  that  evening  re- 
ceived a letter  from  General  Tornel,  Minister  of  War 
and  Marine  at  Mexico,  ordering  him  instantly  to  place 
in  close  confinement,  and  under  strict  guard,  Colonel 
Milam,  Antonio  Navarro,  and  Robert  Foster.  The 
former  had  been  dead  for  years,  having  been  killed  at 
the  Alamo  of  San  Antonio.  Mr.  Navarro  was  then  on 
the  spot,  but  no  person  answering  to  the  name  of  Rob- 
ert Foster  could  be  found,  and  Roblado  questioned  each 
one  of  the  prisoners  and  examined  the  different  lists 
thoroughly.  The  only  name  that  came  anywhere  near 
Robert  Foster  was  Thomas  Falconer , and  Roblado  pre- 
suming that  he  must  be  the  person  alluded  to,  he  was 
instantly  sent  for  with  the  rest  of  us.  We  all  told  the 
captain  that  Mr.  F.  was  not  the  man ; but  this  did  not 
alter  his  purpose,  and  poor  Falconer  was  accordingly 
placed  in  a small,  close  room  with  Mr.  Navarro,  two 
sentinels  being  paraded  before  them,  who  shouted  “ cen- 
tinela  alerta  !”  every  ten  minutes  during  the  dreary 
night,  to  keep  themselves  from  falling  asleep. 

In  the  mean  while,  Van  Ness,  Whittaker,  and  myself 
were  constrained  again  to  occupy  our  disagreeable 
apartment,  where  we  passed  our  New-year’s  night — 
now  rendered  doubly  disagreeable  to  us  by  contrast 
with  the  expected  pleasures  of  the  ball,  in  which  we  had 
promised  ourselves  such  delights  as  would  have  made 
some  amends  for  the  annoyances  and  hardships  of  our 
unwilling  journey. 

We  were  no  sooner  in  the  close  and  dreary  room 
than  new  inconveniences  presented  themselves  ; for  not 
supposing,  until  the  Mexican  officer  came  in  such  haste 
for  us  at  the  Irishman’s  fonda,  that  we  were  to  pass  the 
night  at  the  old  mining-house,  we  had  made  no  prepa- 


SUMMARY  DEALING  WITH  A SENTINEL.  141 

rations  for  our  lodging  before  leaving  it  in  the  morning. 
On  our  return,  therefore,  we  found  that  our  blankets 
had  already  been  taken  and  our  places  occupied  by 
some  of  our  friends,  leaving  us  almost  as  badly  situated 
as  was  poor  Falconer.  The  night,  as  I have  said,  was 
raw,  rainy,  and  uncomfortable,  and  we  were  obliged  to 
take  up  our  quarters  near  the  door.  A drunken  senti- 
nel, whose  duty  it  was  to  walk  outside  and  see  that 
none  of  us  left  the  room,  finally  opened  the  door  and 
took  his  station  within — and  not  content  with  thus  an- 
noying us,  he  howled  the  disagreeable  “ centinela  aler- 
ta  /”  almost  incessantly  in  our  ears,  until  Dr.  Whittaker 
took  a summary  way  of  getting  .rid  of  both  his  presence 
and  his  noise.  The  doctor  told  the  fellow  to  shut  the 
door  and  his  mouth ; the  sentinel  answered  impudent- 
ly; the  next  moment  the  doctor  knocked  him  sprawling 
into  the  mud  outside,  musket  and  all,  and  then  closed 
and  fastened  the  door  after  him.  We  expected  that  the 
fellow  would  make  a complaint,  and  that  we  should  re- 
ceive a visit  from  the  officer  of  the  guard  for  an  expla- 
nation ; but  we  never  heard  anything  more  of  it. 

An  American  gentleman  promised  to  forward  the  let- 
ters I had  written  to  my  friends  in  the  United  States,  in 
such  a way  as  would  ensure  their  safe  delivery ; and 
he  kept  his  word,  for  every  one  of  them  reached  its 
destination.  I speak  of  this  circumstance,  as  many  of 
the  letters  I sent  from  different  points  in  Mexico  never 
left  the  country — at  least  they  did  not  arrive  in  the  Uni- 
ted States.  Generally  speaking,  the  mail  arrangements 
of  Mexico  are  well  conducted,  and  letters  and  newspa- 
pers are  forwarded  with  promptness  and  great  regulari- 
ty ; but  the  postmasters  who  stopped  my  letters  doubt- 
less knew  that  they  were  written  by  some  one  of  the 
prisoners,  and  thought  they  were  serving  their  coun- 


142 


GENEROUS  DONATIONS. 


try  by  detaining  them ; or  perhaps  they  had  orders  to 
do  so. 

A subscription  was  got  up  among  the  foreigners  in 
Zacatecas  for  the  benefit  of  the  Texan  prisoners,  and  a 
sum  exceeding  one  thousand  dollars,  besides  no  incon- 
siderable quantity  of  clothing,  hats,  and  shoes,  was  raised 
for  their  necessities,  the  governor  and  some  of  the  Mex- 
icans subscribing  liberally.  The  clothing  was  distribu- 
ted, and  also  a small  sum  of  money  to  each  man  ; but 
the  larger  portion  was  applied  to  the  hiring  of  two  large 
American  wagons  for  transporting  the  sick  and  infirm, 
as  well  as  the  blankets  and  small  bundles  of  the  prison- 
ers. The  lives  of  many  of  our  men  were  doubtless 
saved  by  the  timely  assistance  of  these  wagons,  as  by 
this  time  numbers  were  ill  with  the  small-pox,  and  nei- 
ther Roblado  nor  the  gbVernor  dared  take  the  responsi- 
bility of  leaving  the  poor  fellows  behind  in  the  hospital. 

At  an  early  hour  on  the  morning  of  January  2d,  the 
wagons  which  had  been  hired  arrived  at  the  foot  of  the 
hill,  below  the  old  mining-house,  and  the  sick  were  as 
comfortably  stowed  in  them  as  circumstances  would 
admit.  Shortly  after,  five  horses  were  sent  to  our 
quarters,  saddled  and  bridled,  being  presents  to  some 
of  the  Texan  officers  from  the  Mexican  lawyer  who 
had  treated  us  so  kindly.  After  partaking  of  an  excel- 
lent breakfast,  sent  us  by  a French  gentleman,  we  were 
ordered  once  more  to  resume  the  march  towards  the 
city  of  the  Montezumas. 

The  main  body  of  prisoners  were  guarded  with  no 
more  strictness  than  heretofore,  but  an  extra  guard  was 
detailed  for  the  special  purpose  of  watching  Messrs. 
Navarro  and  Falconer — riding  close  by  their  side  and 
eyeing  their  every  movement.  There  was  something 
peculiarly  hard  in  the  case  of  the  latter.  He  was  more 


CONVENT  OF  GUADALUPE. 


143 


anxious  than  any  of  the  prisoners  to  examine  thorough- 
ly such  of  the  cities  and  towns  as  we  might  pass  through, 
had  never  harboured  a single  hostile  feeling  against  the 
country,  was  innocent  of  any  inimical  act,  and  was  now 
kept  a close  prisoner,  and  debarred  every  little  privilege 
granted  the  rest  of  us,  for  no  other  reason  than  that 
Thomas  Falconer  sounded  more  like  Robert  Foster  than 
any  other  name  on  the  list.  Tornel  had  seen  the  name 
of  the  latter  attached  to  some  of  the  papers  taken  at  the 
capture  of  General  McLeod,  and  supposing  that  he  was 
an  important  personage,  and  among  the  prisoners,  had 
ordered  him  to  be  closely  confined  and  strictly  watch- 
ed. The  real  personage,  whose  name,  by-the-way,  was 
not  Robert,  was  all  the  while  peaceably  and  quietly 
pursuing  his  avocations  as  principal  clerk  in  the  war 
office  at  Austin,  Texas. 

Some  five  or  six  miles  from  Zacatecas  we  passed  the 
celebrated  Convent  of  Guadalupe,  an  immense  pile  of 
buildings,  enclosed  within  a large  yard.  We  could 
plainly  see  a number  of  melancholy,  pale-visaged  monks, 
gazing  at  us  from  the  small  windows,  doors,  and  balco- 
nies of  the  place.  Near  this  convent,  in  1835,  the  noted 
battle  between  Santa  Anna  and  the  Zacatecans  was 
fought,  which  resulted  in  the  discomfiture  of  the  latter, 
and  the  subsequent  sack  of  the  city.  It  is  said  that  both 
armies  were  defeated,  and  that  both  were  on  the  point 
of  retreating  ; but  that  Santa  Anna,  happening  to  see  a 
panic  among  his  opponents  before  they  noticed  that  his 
men  were  wavering,  was  enabled  to  rally  and  turn  the 
current  in  his  favour.  In  the  general  sack,  which  soon 
after  took  place  in  the  city,  the  houses  of  the  foreigners, 
who  had  taken  no  part  in  the  opposition  to  Santa  Anna, 
were  indiscriminately  plundered  with  the  rest,  and  two 
or  three  gallant  Englishmen  and  Americans  were  killed 


144 


A WARM  BATH. 


while  stoutly  defending  their  dwellings.  Indemnifica- 
tion for  the  losses  sustained  by  the  foreigners  in  this  out- 
rage has  since  been  made  by  the  Mexican  government. 

A short  time  after  the  sack  of  Zacatecas,  Santa  Anna 
was  on  his  way  to  Texas ; and  in  less  than  six  months 
after,  the  man  who  had  filled  grave-yards  with  victims 
to  his  avarice  and  ambition  was  upon  his  knees,  cow- 
ering like  a hound,  and  with  uplifted  hands  begging 
a life  he  had  richly  forfeited  by  his  massacre  of  Fannin 
and  his  men  at  Goliad,  if  by  no  other  crime.  The  ups 
and  downs  of  this  man,  than  whom  no  one  better  quali- 
fied can  be  found  to  govern  his  own  countrymen,  would 
form  a singular  history. 

Leaving  the  Convent  of  Guadalupe,  our  road  led 
us  across  level  plains  until  we  reached  the  village  of 
Refugio,  where  we  encamped  for  the  night.  Our  near- 
est route  to  the  city  of  Mexico  would  have  been  by  a 
road  more  to  the  right ; but  as  Colonel  Cooke  and  his 
party  had  been  taken  in  that  direction,  it  was  deter- 
mined by  the  Mexican  government  to  give  the  inhabi- 
tants of  San  Luis  Potosi  and  Guanajuato  an  opportunity 
to  see  a portion  of  the  Texan  prisoners,  and  we  were 
therefore  ordered  to  visit  those  cities  in  our  march.  We 
had  plenty  of  leisure,  however ; and  as  our  route  took 
us  through  the  more  interesting  portion  of  the  country, 
and  gave  us  an  opportunity  of  seeing  several  of  the 
finest  cities,  we  cared  but  little  for  the  extra  delay  it  oc- 
casioned. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  of  January  4th,  after  a pleasant 
march,  we  reached  the  town  of  Ojo  Caliente.  Here  we 
were  allowed  to  ramble  about  wherever  we  pleased, 
and  there  being  a noted  warm  well  on  the  edge  of  the 
town,  several  of  our  party  visited  it  for  the  purpose  of 
bathing.  The  water  boils  up  in  great  quantities,  and 


FREEDOM  OF  THE  MEXICAN  GIRLS. 


145 


forms  a large,  deep  basin  from  the  very  fountain-head. 
Several  of  the  prisoners  immediately  divested  them- 
selves of  their  clothing,  and  dashed  into  the  refreshing 
element,  diving  and  swimming  about  in  water  just  warm 
enough  to  be  comfortable.  Before  they  left  the  large 
natural  bathing-tub  the  party  was  increased  by  the  ar- 
rival of  several  Mexican  girls,  who,  not  in  the  least  daunt- 
ed by  the  presence  of  the  Texans,  immediately  joined 
them  in  their  aquatic  sports.  With  merry  and  joy- 
ous laughter  they  commenced  splashing  the  water  about 
them  ; now  diving  to  the  bottom,  and  then  rising  to  the 
surface,  shaking  the  water  from  their  long  hair,  and 
paddling  about  like  Newfoundland  dogs.  It  may  not 
have  been  generally  remarked,  and  may  not  be  always 
the  case,  but  nearly  all  the  females  I have  seen  swim — 
Mexicans,  Indians,  and  all — paddle  along  after  the  man- 
ner of  water  dogs,  and  one  of  them  makes  more  noise 
than  a dozen  of  the  other  sex.  In  San  Antonio,  where 
the  women  are  excellent  swimmers  and  visit  the  river 
regularly  once  or  twice  a day,  the  noise  a party  of  them 
make  might  be  mistaken  for  that  of  so  many  porpoises 
or  sea-horses. 

That  the  females  living  upon  many  of  the  rivers  and 
lakes  of  Mexico  take  to  the  water  so  naturally,  and  ap- 
pear upon  its  surface  divested  of  those  loose  garments 
with  which  our  American  ladies  are  wont  to  array 
themselves  upon  such  occasions,  may  be  looked  upon 
as  betraying  a want  of  modesty  by  some  of  my  fair 
readers  ; but  with  the  girls  of  Mexico  there  is  an  ab- 
sence of  all  thought  that  they  are  doing  wrong,  which 
should  fully  exculpate  them  from  blame.  The  customs 
of  the  country  sanction  the  occurrence  of  scenes  such 
as  I have  just  mentioned,  and  many  others  which  would 
be  deemed  highly  indelicate  in  other  lands  ; and  how- 

Vol.  II.— N 


146 


A KENTUCKY  CIRCUS-RIDER. 


ever  much  the  foreigner  may  at  first  be  tempted  to 
doubt  their  strict  correctness,  he  soon  learns  that  no 
conventional  rules  forbid  them.  True  modesty  con 
sists  in  the  thought  which  governs  every  action  ; and 
viewed  in  this  light,  there  was  certainly  no  immodesty 
in  the  girls  of  Ojo  Caliente  indulging  in  a bath,  even  if 
they  did  appear  “ right  before  folks,”  as  the.  philosophic 
Sam  Slick  would  say. 

On  the  ensuing  night  we  reached  El  Carro,  a fine 
hacienda  belonging  to  the  wealthy  Count  of  Jaral. 
About  noon  on  the  6th  we  were  halted  at  the  town  of 
Salina,  where  there  are  extensive  salt-works.  Here, 
at  the  meson  where  we  stopped,  we  found  a stout  Ken- 
tuckian, who  was  one  of  the  owners  of  an  American 
circus  company  then  performing  at  San  Luis  Potosi. 
He  was  now  on  his  way  to  Zacatecas,  for  the  purpose 
of  obtaining  a suitable  place  in  which  to  perform  in 
that  city,  and  at  the  same  time  the  consent  of  the  gov- 
ernor. As  he  had  arrived  at  Salina  a short  time  before 
us,  he  had,  of  course,  selected  the  best  room  in  the  me- 
son for  his  own  use.  This  room  happening  to  please 
Captain  Roblado,  he  ordered  the  circus  proprietor  to 
leave  it ; but  the  latter  told  him  at  once  that  he  had 
the  best  right,  and  should  retain  possession  as  long  as 
he  pleased.  Roblado  fumed  and  swore  a little,  and 
then  left  the  place,  threatening  to  bring  the  alcalde  to 
his  assistance.  The  Kentuckian  went  soon  after  to  the 
alcalde’s  residence,  but  before  he  reached  it  he  found 
that  Roblado  had  been  there  before  him,  and  had  pro- 
cured a writ  of  ejectment.  The  American  was  now 
forced  to  leave  the  room  ; but  he  remarked  that  if  he 
had  but  reached  the  alcalde’s  first,  and  slipped  a dollar 
into  his  hand,  he  could  have  retained  possession  of  the 
room  even  though  fifty  Roblados  had  wanted  it.  The 


MEXICAN  TAVERNS. 


147 


dollar  is  the  most  powerful  weapon  with  many  of  the 
officers  of  justice  in  Mexico,  and  when  it  is  employed 
law  and  equity  must  step  aside. 

The  English  or  American  traveller,  used  to  the  com- 
forts and  conveniences  of  his  own  well-kept  taverns, 
meets  with  but  a sorry  reception  and  miserable  fare  at 
the  Mexican  house  of  entertainment,  or  meson,  as  it  is 
called.  They  are  all  built  in  the  same  style,  the  en- 
trance being  through  a large  gate  or  passage-way 
which  leads  into  a patio,  or  court,  in  the  interior.  On 
either  side  of  this  yard  are  the  rooms  set  apart  for  the 
reception  of  travellers.  Another  passage  leads  from 
this  into  the  yard  which  his  beast  occupies,  and  which 
has  a large  trough  of  water  in  the  centre,  with  uncom- 
fortable stalls  on  the  sides.  The  tired  wayfarer  is  con- 
ducted to  his  room ; but  no  friendly  bed  meets  his  anx- 
ious gaze.  He  sees,  perhaps,  a species  of  form,  built 
of  adobes  and  mortar,  upon  which  he  can  spread  his 
sarape,  or  Mexican  blanket,  and  himself ; or,  mayhap,  a 
corner  of  the  floor  is  pointed  out  to  him  as  a favourite 
spot  on  which  to  establish  himself  for  the  night ; neither 
bed  nor  bedding  is  provided  by  the  landlord.  The 
first  care  of  every  prudent  traveller  is  to  bring  his  sad- 
dle, bridle,  and  the  other  trappings  of  his  horse  or  mule, 
together  with  all  and  singular  his  own  personal  effects, 
into  his  room.  If  he  understands  well  the  population, 
he  contrives  to  sleep  upon  as  much  of  his  property  as 
possible,  to  prevent  the  leperos  and  ladrones  from  ap- 
propriating it  during  the  night ; for  every  Mexican 
town  has  its  band  of  petty  pilferers,  ready  to  steal  the 
very  strings  from  the  traveller’s  shoes,  should  he  not 
take  the  precaution  to  lie  down  and  sleep  with  them  on. 

The  wayfarer  is  now  housed — his  next  care  is  for  his 
inward  man,  and  here  new  difficulties  arise.  The  Mex- 


148 


FIERY  EATING. 


ican  landlord  sets  no  public  table — provides  no  meal, 
and  very  likely  keeps  no  provisions  fit  for  his  foreign 
guests.  At  the  cocina,  or  kitchen,  amid  the  steams  of 
rank  and  highly-seasoned  stews,  he  may  esteem  him- 
self lucky  if  he  can  purchase  a bowl  of  mutton  broth,  a 
coarse  earthen  platter  of  frijoles,  or,  perchance,  a gui- 
sado  so  particularly  high-seasoned  with  red  pepper  that 
the  skin  of  his  mouth  is  in  danger  of  going  down  his 
throat  at  the  first  swallow.  Ten  chances  to  one  if  he 
is  fortunate  enough  to  find  knife,  fork,  or  spoon — articles 
by  no  means  necessary  in  Mexican  housekeeping.  But 
what  need  of  these  when  he  has  his  own  good  fingers 
and  a plate  of  those  ever-accompanying  and  never-fail- 
ing thin  cakes,  yclept  tortillas,  to  fall  back  upon?  The 
soup  he  drinks  from  the  bowl ; a spoon  he  manufactures 
by  tearing  off  a piece  of  tortilla  and  doubling  it  into  a 
species  of  scoop,  and  with  this  he  is  enabled  to  shovel 
up  a mouthful  of  his  frijoles  or  guisado  and  carry  it  to 
his  jaws.  Tortilla  and  all  are  swallowed,  for  with 
every  fresh  mouthful  a fresh  spoon  is  made.  Should 
the  stranger  happen  to  swallow  a bit  of  guisado  so  out- 
rageously hot  with  red  pepper  that  from  very  agony  a 
freshet  of  tears  starts  from  his  eyes,  some  by-standing 
Mexican  exclaims  that  it  is  “ bueno  por  el  estomago” — 
good  for  the  stomach  ! Fine  consolation  this,  especial- 
ly for  an  American ; for  what  does  an  American  care 
for  his  stomach?  We  may  all  fume  and  rage  against 
Mrs.  Trollope  and  Dickens,  and  work  ourselves  into 
a most  patriotic  fury  at  their  strictures  ; but  it  cannot 
be  denied  that  too  many  of  us  impose  terrible  taxes 
upon  our  digestive  organs  by  bolting  our  food  in  over- 
haste and  half  masticated.  Too  many  of  us,  again, 
consult  but  our  tastes.  We  make  a hopper  of  our 
mouths,  feed  it  to  overflowing  with  the  richest  dishes 


MODERATE  BILLS. 


149 


until  that  trough  or  reservoir  called  the  stomach  is  run- 
ning over,  stop  suddenly  in  our  eating,  rush  to  business 
as  though  life  and  death  depended  upon  our  exertions, 
and  spend  half  our  lives  wondering  why  we  are  troubled 
with  indigestion  and  dyspepsia ! I hope  my  country- 
men will  pardon  the  truth  and  the  episode,  while  I go 
back  to  the  tavern. 

There  is  one  thing  the  traveller  in  Mexico  gets  in  all 
its  perfection,  and  that  is  chocolate.  They  may  have  it 
as  good  in  Spain — but  in  no  part  of  the  United  States, 
or  of  the  British  possessions  upon  its  borders,  can  any- 
thing approaching  it  be  made — so  fragrant,  so  rich,  so 
delicious.  But  when  he  has  swallowed  his  chocolate, 
there  is  an  end  to  everything  like  perfection.  The 
traveller,  if  anywhere  in  the  vicinity  of  the  tierras  ca- 
lientes,  may  eke  out  his  dinner  with  the  fruits  which 
grow  there  in  endless  variety  and  profusion,  and  of 
most  delicious  and  nutritious  quality ; but  nowhere 
need  he  look  for  the  roast  beef,  the  boiled  mutton,  the 
potatoes,  the  pies,  the  puddings,  or  the  thousand-and- 
one  substantials  and  delicacies  to  which  he  has  been 
accustomed.  Such  is  tavern  life  in  Mexico,  at  least  at 
a majority  of  the  mesones  and  fondas  scattered  through 
the  smaller  towns  and  cities.  What  the  charge  is  for  the 
lodging  of  a man  and  the  stabling  of  his  beast  over 
night,  I do  not  know — the  Mexican  government  paid 
all  my  bills  of  this  nature  during  the  interesting  tour  I 
made  through  that  country.  The  prices  are  moderate, 
however,  especially  away  from  the  larger  cities.  A 
dish  of  frijoles,  or  of  guisado,  with  a stack  of  some  half 
dozen  tortillas  to  match,  seldom  costs  more  than  six  or 
nine  cents  ; and  as  upon  these  the  traveller  is  generally 
obliged  to  subsist,  his  expenses  are  light.  With  a dol- 
lar and  twenty-five  cents  or  thereabout  per  diem,  I 

N 2 


150 


HOW  TO  MAKE  TORTILLA3. 


should  suppose  a man  could  pay  his  own  expenses  and 
those  of  his  beast  on  the  principal  routes  of  the  country, 
and  live  through  it,  unless  some  of  los  senores  ladrones 
should  see  fit  to  stop  his  breath  for  the  mere  love  of 
whatever  plunder  might  be  got  from  him. 

Should  the  traveller  happen  to  be  at  a village  where 
there  is  no  meson,  it  is  considered  the  duty  of  the  al- 
calde to  furnish  him  with  accommodations  ; but  if  night 
overtakes  him  at  a poor  rancho,  where  there  is  no  al- 
calde, his  situation  is  truly  deplorable.  He  alights  at 
the  door  of  the  best-appearing  hut  in  the  group,  and 
after  kicking  and  quieting  some  half  dozen  yelping, 
worthless  curs,  which  seem  inclined  to  dispute  his  pas- 
sage by  threats  only — they  never  go  so  far  as  to  bite — 
he  at  length  effects  an  entrance.  The  room  serves  for 
all  purposes — kitchen,  parlour,  and  sleeping  apartment.* 

* The  reader  must  bear  in  mind  that  I am  now  speaking  of  the  dwellings 
of  the  very  lowest  and  poorest  classes,  although  a large  majority  of  the  in- 
habitants have  but  a common  room  in  which  to  eat  and  sleep.  Attached 
to  this  apartment,  in  many  instances,  may  be  found  a small  room  which 
serves  as  a kitchen,  and  in  which  the  little  cooking  of  the  family  is  done.  In 
this  kitchen  the  tortillas  are  made,  and  as  the  process  may  not  prove  unin- 
teresting, I will  quote  Madame  Calderon’s  description  of  the  manner  in  which 
they  are  manufactured : “ They  first  soak  the  grain  in  water  with  a little 
lime,  and  when  it  is  soft  peel  off  the  skin — then  grind  it  on  a large  block  of 
stone,  the  metate,  or,  as  the  Indians  (who  know  best)  call  it,  the  metall.  Foi 
the  purpose  of  grinding  it,  they  use  a sort  of  stone  roller,  with  which  it  is 
crushed,  and  rolled  into  a bowl  placed  below  the  stone.  They  then  take 
some  of  this  paste,  and  clap  it  between  their  hands,  till  they  form  it  into 
light  round  cakes,  which  are  afterward  toasted  on  a smooth  plate,  called  the 
comalli  (comal  they  call  it  in  Mexico),  and  which  ought  to  be  eaten  as  hot  as 
possible.”  I agree,  most  decidedly,  with  the  fair  authoress,  that  they  “ ought 
to  be  eaten  as  hot  as  possible,”  if  at  all—- for  from  all  such  tough,  heavy,  and 
unsavoury  cakes  I beg  to  be  delivered.  Most  excellent  bread  do  the  Mexicans 
make — white,  light,  and  sweet  — and  why  they  spoil  their  corn  by  convert- 
ing it  into  tortillas  is  a mystery.  Two  women  or  girls  are  always  engaged 
in  making  them — one  to  grind  the  grain,  the  other  to  form  the  cakes — and 
pass  by  a hut,  either  at  night  or  morning,  the  traveller  is  sure  to  hear  the  pat- 
ting of  hands  which  denotes  the  progress  of  manufacture.  When  cooked,  if 
the  Mexican  has  no  frijoles,  he  besmears  the  tortilla  with  a composition  of 


SCANTY  FURNITURE. 


151 


There  is  no  floor  other  than  the  hard-trodden  earth ; it 
is  bedless,  furnitureless,  comfortless.  The  tired  way- 
farer looks  around  for  some  friendly  evidence  of  food 
and  rest — his  beast  without  neighs  aloud  for  corn,  shel- 
ter, and  some  one  to  relieve  him  of  his  heavy  load  of 
saddle  and  baggage.  Upon  the  rough  walls  of  the 
room  are  to  be  seen,  neatly  enough  arrayed  with  gar- 
lands of  flowers  and  boughs,  a collection  of  badly-ex- 
ecuted lithographs,  gaudily  coloured,  and  intended  to 
represent  different  scenes  in  the  life  of  our  Saviour  and 
the  Holy  Mother.  The  centre  of  the  little  group  is  oc- 
cupied, perhaps,  by  a rude  wooden  cross,  trimmed  with 
faded  flowers.  Beneath  is  probably  a lithograph — 
sometimes  an  old  engraving — of  the  Virgin  of  Guada- 
lupe, while  over  it  is  suspended  a picture  representing 
the  ascension  of  our  Saviour.  The  crucifixion  occupies 
a conspicuous  place,  then  a print  of  the  Virgin  and 
Holy  Child,  and  then  an  ingeniously- wrought  crown  of 
thorns,  or  a rosary  and  crucifix.  A brass  medal  of 
Nuestra  Senora  de  Guadalupe,  and  probably  a litho- 
graph of  the  patron  saint  of  the  country,  will  be  seen 
in  the  collection,  the  former  suspended  by  a red  or  yel- 
low riband.  A little  bit  of  looking-glass  generally  com- 
pletes the  arrangement,  for  this  piece  of  wordly  vanity 
almost  always  has  its  station,  in  a Mexican  cottage,  in- 
close proximity  with  the  rude  symbols  of  the  faith  of  its 
inmates.  On  other  parts  of  the  walls  the  traveller  sees 
little  save  strings  of  dry  red  peppers,  perhaps  a few  ears 
of  corn,  and  the  coarse  earthen  bowls  and  dishes  of  the 
occupants. 

Turning  his  eyes  to  the  floor,  in  one  corner  he  sees 

red  pepper  and  mutton  fat,  and  always  appears  perfectly  contented  if  he  can 
procure  a sufficiency  of  this  singular  food,  with  pulque  enough  to  wash  it 
down. 


152 


NOTHING  TO  EAT. 


the  universal  metate,  or  stone  instrument  upon  which 
the  corn  is  mashed  or  ground  before  it  is  made  into  tor- 
tillas. In  the  next  corner,  probably,  a fighting  cock  is 
tied  by  the  leg,  giving  an  occasional  crow  of  defiance 
to  some  brother  chicken  tied  in  the  same  way  in  the 
adjoining  or  opposite  house.  Another  corner  is  occu- 
pied, perhaps,  by  an  elderly  hen  sitting  upon  a nest  of 
eggs,  while  in  the  last  stands  a coarse  box  or  chest, 
containing  the  little  odds  and  ends  belonging  to  the 
family  in  the  way  of  dresses  and  ornaments.  In  this 
room,  which  is  not  more  than  ten  or  twelve  feet  square, 
live,  sleep,  and  eat  some  eight,  ten,  or  perhaps  twelve 
persons,  large  and  small,  male  and  female,  and  with 
these  the  traveller  is  obliged  to  make  his  bed,  or  take  up 
with  lodgings  upon  the  ground  outside,  which  is  every 
way  preferable  if  the  weather  permits.  “ If  a man 
lies  down  with  a dog  he  gets  up  with  fleas,”  says  the 
old  proverb — if  he  lies  down  with  Mexicans  of  the 
lower  classes  he  gets  up  with  something  worse,  say  I. 

But  sleep  is  a secondary,  an  after  consideration — the 
wayfarer  must  have  something  to  eat.  He  asks  the 
master  of  the  establishment  if  he  has  any  meat.  Nine 
times  out  of  ten  the  answer  is,  “ No  hai” — there  is  none 
— accompanied  by  raising  the  right  hand  to  a level  with 
his  nose,  closing  it  with  the  exception  of  the  forefinger, 
and  then,  with  the  palm  turned  outwardly,  wagging  the 
upraised  finger  directly  before  the  face.  Bread  is  next 
asked  for.  The  answer  this  time  is  another  wag  of  the 
forefinger,  which  is  to  all  intents  and  purposes  a nega- 
tive ; but  frequently  the  word  “ tampoco”  is  uttered,  sig- 
nifying that  there  is  neither  bread  nor  meat  on  the  prem- 
ises. The  traveller  asks  for  milk  or  eggs.  “ No  ha ' 
nada” — no,  there  is  nothing  here — is  the  answer,  un- 
less, by  some  turn  of  good  fortune,  his  host  happens  to 


HIGH-WAYS  AND  BY-WAYS. 


153 


own  a goat  or  a cow,  or  has  had  extraordinary  luck 
with  his  poultry.  It  is  only  when  the  hungry  wayfarer 
is  driven  to  the  strait  of  asking  for  tortillas  or  frijoles 
that  the  welcome  “ si  hai ” — we  have  them — greets  his 
ear.  With  these  he  at  least  stays  the  cravings  of  hun- 
ger, and  after  having  made  such  provision  for  his  horse 
as  the  poverty  of  the  rancho  allows,  he  gathers  his  prop- 
erty as  nearly  under  him  as  possible,  rolls  himself  in  his 
sarape,  and  seeks  forgetfulness  and  rest  in  sleep. 

The  above  is  a picture  of  life  in  Mexico,  among  the 
lower  classes  of  the  inhabitants,  the  fidelity  of  which 
will  be  attested  by  all  who  have  travelled  over  the 
country.  Flying  tourists,  who  have  confined  their  trip 
to  Puebla,  Mexico,  Queretaro,  Guanajuato,  and  such 
places  as  they  could  reach  in  stage-coaches,  can  learn 
little  from  their  own  personal  experience  ; for  with  the 
introduction  of  this  mode  of  travelling  came  regular 
stage-houses,  where  regular  and  more  bountiful  meals 
are  served  up.  They  must  journey  upon  the  backs  of 
mules,  and  through  the  less-frequented  highways,  before 
they  can  come  to  a proper  understanding  of  the  coun- 
try and  the  modes  of  living  of  its  inhabitants. 


154 


A MODERATE  WrgH. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 

Departure  from  Salina. — Last  Speech  of  the  Kentucky  Circus  Pioprietor. — 
His  Wishes  in  relation  to  Roblado.  — Arrival  at  Espiritu  Santo.  — Pass  a 
pleasant  Evening. — A Contrast. — La  Parada. — Wild  mountain  Scenery. — 
The  Organo. — A picturesque  View. — First  Sight  of  San  Luis  Potosi. — A 
beautiful  Valley. — Innumerable  Wells. — Large  Prickly  Pears. — The  Peru- 
vian Tree. — Our  Approach  to  San  Luis  heralded. — Arrival  within  the  City. 
— Beauty  of  the  Women. — Description  of  San  Luis. — Its  Churches,  Con- 
vents, and  public  Buildings. — Convent  of  the  Augustine  Friars. — Benevo- 
lence of  the  Brotherhood. — Wants  of  the  Sick  provided  for. — An  evening 
Stroll  through  the  City. — Market  Scenes. — Encounter  with  a Company  of 
Equestrians.  — A droll  Specimen  of  the  Y ankee  Genus.  — “ Old  Hundred” 
in  San  Luis. — Return  to  the  Convent. — Visited  by  the  Eoreigners.— Our 
Yankee  Wag  and  his  Stories.  — Subscription  for  the  Prisoners  raised. — 
Allowed  our  Parole. — An  interesting  Scotch  Lady. — Visit  to  the  Circus. — 
Appearance  of  the  Audience. — An  Invitation  to  Supper. — Find  ourselves  in 
the  wrong  House. — Apologies  unnecessary. — Supper  at  last. — An  Opportu- 
nity to  write  to  my  Friends  improved. — Departure  from  San  Luis. — A new 
Guard  and  new  Commander. — An  interesting  Incident. — Las  Pilas. — Arri- 
val at  El  Jaral.— Anecdote  of  General  Mina. — Wealth  of  the  Proprietor.— 
A singular  Funeral  Procession.- — A ‘‘Hog  on  Horseback.” — Description  of 
the  Arrieros  of  Mexico. 

As  we  were  about  departing  from  Salina,  the  Kentucky 
circus  proprietor  rode  up  to  take  his  leave  of  us.  Just 
as  he  was  turning  his  horse’s  head,  in  the  direction  of 
Zacatecas,  Roblado  passed  by  on  a gallop,  the  Ken- 
tuckian simply  remarking  that  he  would  like  to  have 
him,  and  six  more  just  like  him,  in  a close  room  for 
about  ten  minutes,  the  door  to  be  locked  on  the  outside, 
and  the  windows  strongly  barred.  He  entertained 
what  he  called  a private  opinion,  but  which  he  express- 
ed publicly,  that  the  whole  of  them  would  “ find  them- 
selves most  essentially  chawed  up”  in  less  than  that 
time.  After  uttering  this  short  but  emphatic  speech,  he 
too  put  spurs  to  his  horse  and  galloped  off  in  an  opposite 
direction.  I have  little  doubt  that  such  odds  as  even 


CONTRASTS  OF  A NIGHT. 


155 


seven  Roblados  would  have  fared  badly  in  his  hands, 
for  the  Kentuckian  was  a well-made,  stalwart  specimen 
of  our  Western  men,  and  had  that  determined  expres- 
sion of  countenance  which  plainly  indicated  that  he 
meant  what  he  said. 

In  the  afternoon  we  reached  Espiritu  Santo,  a noble 
hacienda,  having  a fine  church  and  a very  well-inform- 
ed and  gentlemanly  priest.  Here,  too,  we  met  with  a 
good  blacksmith,  and  as  the  road  beyond  was  reported 
to  be  exceedingly  rough  and  rocky,  several  of  our  par- 
ty embraced  the  opportunity  of  having  their  animals 
shod.  Fortunate  it  was  that  we  did  so,  for  we  found 
the  road  even  worse  than  had  been  represented. 

Our  night  at  Espiritu  Santo  was  one  of  the  most 
pleasant  on  the  whole  route.  A Mexican  gentleman 
residing  there  had  two  or  three  very  pretty  daughters, 
girls  who  had  been  educated  in  Europe  and  seen  much 
of  the  world,  and  there  were  also  several  well-informed 
and  intelligent  ladies  attached  to  the  priest’s  family.  At 
night  a tertulia,  or  party,  was  given  to  the  Mexican 
officers  by  the  former,  to  which  a number  of  the  Texans 
were  invited.  One  of  the  young  ladies,  in  particular, 
waltzed  gracefully,  and  played  upon  the  guitar  with  ex- 
cellent skill.  A generous  supper  was  given  during  the 
evening,  and  thus,  amid  music  and  the  dance,  feast- 
ing, and  the  charms  of  well-bred  society,  the  night  wore 
away  at  Espiritu  Santo — the  next  we  passed  in  mis- 
erable quarters  at  the  poor  and  worn-out  hacienda  of 
La  Parada.  Surely,  the  hours  of  our  captivity  were 
checkered. 

The  country  between  La  Parada  and  San  Luis  Po- 
tosi  is  wild,  mountainous,  and  exceedingly  picturesque. 
Often  the  traveller  finds  himself  winding  along  through 
deep,  dark,  and  dreary  barrancas,  or  mountain  passes. 


156 


THE  OEGANO-TREE. 


surrounded  on  all  sides  by  high  and  rugged  precipices. 
Many  of  these  passes  are  not  more  than  twenty  or  thir- 
ty yards  in  width,  having  pure  streams  of  swift-running 
water  dashing  through  them,  and  enlivened  here  and 
there  by  the  rude  mud  dwelling  of  some  family  that  has 
chosen  the  secluded  retreat  for  a home.  On  either  side 
the  mountains  rise  in  abrupt  and  precipitous  masses, 
shutting  out  the  sun  almost  entirely  except  for  an  hour 
or  two  in  the  middle  of  the  day.  Wild  flowers  of  al- 
most every  variety  and  hue,  sending  forth  delicious 
fragrance  upon  the  pure  mountain  air,  are  to  be  seen  on 
every  side;  orange  and  other  fruit  trees  grow  luxu- 
riantly, and  in  one  of  these  passes  we  for  the  first  time 
met  with  the  tall  and  symmetrical  organo  plant,  a spe- 
cies of  the  cactus.  It  is  about  gix  inches  in  diameter  at 
the  base,  tapering  upward  very  gradually,  from  eighteen 
to  twenty-five  feet  in  height,  and  almost  entirely  desti- 
tute of  limbs  or  leaves.  As  it  is  an  evergreen,  and 
grows  perfectly  straight,  it  is  in  many  parts  of  Mexico 
planted  closely  in  rows,  and  when  it  attains  its  full  size 
and  height  makes  a neat  and  strong  fence — as  symmet- 
rical in  every  particular  as  though  the  hand  of  man  had 
fashioned  it.  This  singular  production  of  nature  re- 
ceives its  name  from  the  resemblance  a row  of  the  trees 
has  to  the  pipes  of  an  organ.  The  prickly  pear  was 
also  seen  growing  upon  the  almost  perpendicular  mount- 
ain sides,  and  here  goats  and  ragged,  rough-coated  don- 
keys were  picking  a scanty  subsistence  from  the  thorny 
herbage.  The  climate  in  these  mountain  passes,  for 
they  scarcely  deserve  the  name  of  valleys,  is  delightfully 
mild,  and  the  limited  wants  of  the  scattered  inhabitants 
are  easily  supplied  by  the  vegetables  that  grow  upon  a 
few  square  rods  of  land.  Ignorant  of  the  wide  world 
from  which  they  are  shut  out,  its  cares  and  its  vanities, 


APPROACH  TO  SAN  LUIS. 


157 


the  poor  Indians  here  pass  their  days  in  peace  and  qui- 
etness, and  in  apparent  unconsciousness  of  the  wild  sub- 
limity with  which  they  are  surrounded. 

Emerging  from  one  of  these  passes,  the  traveller  finds 
himself  climbing  the  rocky  sides  of  precipices  that  at 
first  sight  seem  impassable.  By  slow  degrees  the  mount- 
ain summit  is  reached,  and  then  he  is  amply  repaid  for 
his  toil  by  the  scenes  below  him — scenes  full  of  calm 
repose  and  quiet  beauty,  for  distance  has  softened  the 
harshness  of  the  rugged  barranca  and  subdued  the  as- 
perities of  the  wild  precipices  by  which  it  is  hemmed 
in.  Our  wagons  with  the  sick  had  been  sent  by  a dif- 
ferent road,  it  being  utterly  impossible  for  aught  save 
man  or  beast  to  make  the  passage  through  these  mount- 
ain gorges. 

After  toiling  some  six  hours  in  gaining  as  many 
miles,  we  finally  reached  the  summit  of  the  mountains 
which  overhang  the  beautiful  valley  of  San  Luis  on  its 
northern  side.  In  our  rear  was  a rude  and  broken 
country — a country  formed  by  nature  in  one  of  her 
wildest  freaks — before  us  was  spread  out  a boundless 
and  peaceful  valley.  In  the  distance  the  numerous 
domes  and  steeples  of  San  Luis  Potosi  were  seen  rising, 
while  all  around  were  rich  and  fertile  fields  teeming  with 
vegetation,  and  this,  too,  in  the  month  of  January.  In- 
numerable well-sweeps  were  seen  rising  and  falling  in 
every  part  of  the  valley,  for  here  there  are  no  irrigating 
canals,  and  the  inhabitants  are  compelled  to  depend  on 
wells  for  water  to  moisten  the  earth. 

Descending  the  mountains  by  a rough,  zigzag  path,  in 
many  places  so  steep  that  we  were  obliged  to  dismount 
and  lead  or  drive  our  animals,  we  at  length  gained  the 
valley  in  safety.  Here  we  found  a wide,  straight  road, 
skirted,  on  both  sides,  by  huge  prickly  pear-trees,  and 

VOL.  II.— O 


158 


SAN  LUIS  POTOSI. 


leading  directly  into  the  city,  now  distant  some  six  or 
seven  miles.  Those  who  have  never  seen  the  prickly 
pear  as  it  grows  in  Mexico  can  hardly  believe  accounts 
of  the  immense  size  which  it  attains.  I have  seen  the 
trunks  of  some  at  least  two  feet  in  diameter,  growing 
eight  or  ten  feet  in  height  without  a limb,  and  then 
branching  off  in  every  direction.  As  we  drew  nearer 
the  city,  the  roadsides  were  planted  with  rows  of  Peru- 
vian trees,  a species  of  pepper  or  spice,  their  wide- 
spreading  limbs  and  rich  green  foliage  forming  a shady 
arbour  over  our  pathway,  while  pendent  clusters  of  red 
berries,  of  aromatic  fragrance,  were  hanging  gracefully 
from  every  little  twig  and  bough.  Here  and  there  a 
dwelling-house  would  be  seen,  the  front  yard  fenced  in 
by  the  towering  organo,  which  completely  cut  off  all 
view  of  the  habitation  save  through  the  vacant  space 
left  in  front  for  an  entrance. 

The  self-important  Roblado  had  sent  on  his  trumpet- 
ers, as  usual,  to  herald  our  approach,  and  the  principal 
streets  through  which  we  passed  were  thronged  with 
dense  masses  of  the  inhabitants.  San  Luis  is  one  of  the 
best-built  cities  of  Mexico,  regularly  laid  out,  and  with 
an  air  of  cleanliness  not  common  in  a Mexican  town. 
The  women,  too,  are  somewhat  famous  for  their  gen- 
eral beauty — they  certainly  have  small  and  perfectly- 
formed  feet  and  hands,  large  and  lustrous  eyes,  and  hair 
more  black  and  glossy  than  any  other  females  I saw 
while  travelling  almost  three  thousand  miles  through 
the  country.  The  windows  and  balconies  of  the  better 
houses  were  filled  with  the  fashionables,  while  the  girls 
of  the  poorer  classes,  who  seemed  as  though  they  had 
run  from  their  houses  half  dressed  in  their  great  haste 
to  see  los  Tejanos,  were  gathered  on  either  side  the 
streets  in  countless  numbers. 


HOSPITABLE  MONKS. 


159 


The  city  of  San  Luis  Potosi,  with  its  immediate  sub- 
urbs, must  contain  some  fifty  thousand  inhabitants. 
Like  Mexico,  it  is  built  in  a wide  valley,  much  of  which 
is  fertile  in  the  growth  of  Indian  corn  and  wheat,  be- 
sides affording  excellent  pasturage  for  immense  herds 
of  sheep.  The  city  was  a place  of  great  wealth  while 
the  adjacent  gold  mines  were  productive  ; but  since  the 
working  of  them  has  ceased  it  has  lost  much  of  its  for- 
mer consequence.  The  inhabitants,  however,  appear 
to  be  engaged  to  no  inconsiderable  extent  in  the  manu- 
facture of  clothing,  shoes,  hats,  and  different  articles  of 
iron,  and  a quantity  of  grain  is  raised  in  the  valley  far 
exceeding  the  wants  of  the  population.  The  churches, 
convents,  and  public  institutions  are  magnificent,  and 
will  vie  with  those  of  any  city  in  Mexico — a country 
abounding  with  the  grandest  specimens  of  religious 
architecture. 

Passing  through  the  principal  plaza  of  the  city,  which 
is  surrounded  by  stately  churches,  palaces,  and  residen- 
ces of  the  higher  orders,  we  at  length  reached  the  con- 
vent of  the  Augustine  friars.  This  is  a rich  establish- 
ment, and  the  holy  and  benevolent  brotherhood  kindly 
appropriated  two  or  three  large  rooms  in  their  convent 
to  our  use.  Here  our  sick,  were  attended  to,  visited  by 
Mexican  physicians,  and  several  of  those  who  were  in 
the  most  hopeless  condition  were  taken  to  the  hospital 
to  be  better  attended.  How  different  this  from  the  un- 
kind treatment  we  had  experienced  but  a few  days 
previous  at  Zacatecas ! 

No  sooner  had  dark  set  in  than  Van  Ness,  who  had 
no  little  influence  with  the  Mexican  officers  from  the 
fact  of  his  speaking  their  language,  obtained  permission 
to  leave  the  convent  without  a guard,  accompanied  by 
one  of  the  Texan  officers  and  myself.  First  ascertain- 


160 


A MEXICAN  MARKET-PLACE. 


ing  the  name  of  the  street  in  which  our  quarters  were 
situated,  we  strolled  off  at  random  into  the  heart  of  the 
city.  A walk  of  but  a few  squares  brought  us  to  the 
market,  which  was  now  filled  with  the  venders  of  every 
species  of  eatable,  drinkable,  and  wearable  article. 
Seated  upon  the  ground,  a female  might  be  seen  with  a 
few  chiles  colorados,  or  red  peppers,  for  sale,  her  mer- 
chandise dimly  lighted  by  a small  fire  beside  her.  But 
a few  steps  distant  another  woman,  with  a scanty  sup- 
ply of  frijoles,  would  be  quietly  awaiting  a customer, 
and  her  next  neighbour  was  probably  sitting  by  the  side 
of  an  earthen  pot  of  chile  guisado,  kept  hot  by  a small 
charcoal  fire  beneath.  In  her  lap  would  be  a small  pile 
of  tortillas,  and  ever  and  anon,  as  some  hungry  custom- 
er gave  her  a call,  she  would  throw  two  or  three  of  the 
tortillas  upon  the  fire  to  warm,  dip  a saucer  of  the  gui- 
sado from  the  pot  before  her,  and  after  receiving  her 
quartillo  in  advance,  hand  over  the  eatables  to  the  pur- 
chaser. The  quartillo  is  a copper  coin  about  the  size 
of  one  of  our  pennies,  but  passes  for  three.  There  is  a 
small  portion  of  silver  in  the  Mexican  copper  coins — 
just  enough  to  make  it  an  object  to  counterfeit  them — ■ 
and  it  is  said  that  large  quantities  of  spurious  quartillos 
have  been  manufactured  in  the  United  States  and  in 
England  expressly  for  the  Mexican  market. 

The  market-place  of  San  Luis  occupies  a large  square, 
and  every  part  of  it  was  in  some  way  put  to  use  by  the 
females.  Twenty-five  cents  would  have  purchased  the 
whole  stock  in  trade  of  a large  portion  of  them;  yet 
they  seemed  perfectly  happy,  and  would  chat  away, 
while  smoking  their  cigarritos,  with  the  greatest  vivacity 
and  cheerfulness.  There  may  not  have  been  as  many 
languages  spoken  as  in  the  New-Orleans  market,  bu< 
there  was  as  much  talking,  and  even  more  bustle  and 


A GENUINE  DOWN-EASTER. 


161 


confusion.  The  square  was  filled  with  soldiers  off  duty, 
loafers,  market-women,  girls,  monks,  gamblers,  leperos, 
venders  of  oranges  and  other  fruits,  robbers,  friars,  fel- 
lows with  fighting  chickens  under  their  blankets — in 
short,  one  of  those  miscellaneous  collections  always  to 
be  found  about  a Mexican  market  square.  The  adjoin- 
ing buildings  were  occupied  as  drinking  and  cigar  shops, 
retail  fancy  stores,  and  dwelling  houses  of  the  poorer 
orders.  Around  the  liquor  shops  were  seen  a few 
drunken  Indians,  the  husbands  or  brothers,  probably,  of 
some  of  the  market-women,  who  had  spent  one  half  of 
their  hard  earnings  in  the  purchase  of  mescal  or  aguar- 
diente. 

Entering  an  estanquillo,  or  shop  licensed  to  sell  ci- 
gars, we  met  two  or  three  faces  so  decidedly  Anglo- 
Saxon  in  complexion  and  feature  that  we  at  once  ac- 
costed them  in  English,  and  were  answered  by  one  of 
the  party  with  a drawl  and  twang  so  peculiarly  “ Down 
East,”  that  Marble,  Hackett,  or  Yankee  Hill  might  have 
taken  lessons  from  him.  We  soon  ascertained  that  they 
belonged  to  the  American  circus  company  then  per- 
forming at  San  Luis,  and  on  telling  them  who  we  were 
they  at  once  invited  us  to  their  meson  to  supper.  The 
first  speaker,  who  proved  to  be  a regular  Vermonter, 
was  not  a little  surprised  to  see  us  out  without  a guard, 
and  asked  if  we  had  received  permission  to  that  effect. 
His  astonishment  was  removed  when  we  told  him  that 
we  were  allowed  to  leave  our  quarters  on  parole. 

In  five  minutes  after  our  arrival  at  the  hotel  of  the 
equestrians,  I found  that  our  Vermont  acquaintance  was 
one  of  the  quaintest  specimens  of  the  Yankee  race  I had 
ever  seen,  and  not  a few  examples  had  I met  previous 
to  my  encounter  with  him.  He  had  a droll  impediment 
in  his  speech  which  gave  to  his  actions  and  gestures  a 

02 


162  “ OLD  HUNDRED.” 

turn  irresistibly  comic,  and  then  he  told  an  excellent 
story,  played  the  trombone,  triangle,  and  bass  viol,  spoke 
Spanish  well,  drove  one  of  the  circus  wagons,  transla- 
ted the  bills,  turned  an  occasional  somerset  in  the  ring, 
cracked  jokes  in  Spanish  with  the  Mexican  clown,  took 
the  tickets  at  the  entrance  with  one  hand,  while  with 
the  other  he  beat  an  accompaniment  to  the  orchestra 
inside  on  the  bass-drum,  and,  in  short,  made  himself 
“ generally  useful.”  After  partaking  of  an  excellent 
supper,  we  spent  an  agreeable  hour  in  his  room,  listen- 
ing to  story  after  story  of  his  adventures.  He  “ come 
out”  to  Mexico,  to  use  his  own  words,  by  way  of  Chi- 
huahua, accompanying  the  traders  from  Jonesborough, 
on  Red  River,  in  the  first  and  only  expedition  across  the 
immense  prairies.  They  were  some  six  or  eight  months 
on  the  road,  and  suffered  incredible  hardships  for  want 
of  water  and  provisions.  Our  Yankee  was  a stout  man 
when  we  saw  him,  but  he  told  us  that  he  was  a perfect 
transparency  when  he  first  arrived  at  the  Mexican  set- 
tlements— so  poor,  in  fact,  that  according  to  his  own 
account  “ a person  might  have  read  the  New-England 
Primer  through  him  without  specs.” 

When  ten  o’clock  came  we  rose  to  depart ; but  the 
droll  genius  insisted  that  we  should  first  partake  of  a 
glass  of  egg-nog  with  him,  and  then  help  him  to  sing 
“ Old  Hundred”  in  remembrance  of  old  times.  There 
are  few  persons  in  the  New-England  States  who  can- 
not go  through  this  ancient  and  well-known  psalm-tune 
after  some  fashion,  and  although  neither  time  nor  place 
was  exactly  befitting,  we  all  happened  to  be  from  that 
quarter,  and  could  not  resist  complying  with  his  comico- 
serious  request.  He  really  had  a good  voice,  and,  for 
aught  I know,  may  have  led  the  singing  in  his  native 
village  church.  After  humming  a little,  apparently  to 


A MERRY  VISITER. 


163 


get  the  right  pitch,  he  started  off  with  a full,  rich  tone ; 
but  suddenly  checking  himself  in  the  middle  of  the  first 
line,  said  that  the  thing  was  not  yet  complete.  Taking 
a double-bass  from  its  resting-place  in  one  corner  of  the 
room,  he  soon  had  the  instrument  tuned,  and  then  re- 
commenced with  this  accompaniment.  Never  have  I 
heard  a performance  so  strangely  mingling  the  grave 
and  the  comic.  It  was  odd  enough  to  see  one  of  his 
vocation  in  a strange  land  thus  engaged — and  then  the 
solemnity  and  zeal  with  which  he  sawed  and  sang  away 
were  perfectly  irresistible.  I did  not  laugh  ; but  thoughts 
arose  in  my  mind  very  little  accordant  with  the  earnest 
and  devotional  spirit  with  which  our  strange  compan- 
ion went  through  his  share  of  the  performance.  This 
curious  scene  over,  a scene  which  is  probably  without 
a parallel  in  the  history  of  San  Luis  Potosi,  we  took 
leave  of  our  singular  acquaintance,  who  promised  to 
call  at  the  convent  early  the  next  morning,  and  do 
everything  in  his  power  to  assist  those  among  the  Tex- 
ans who  were  the  most  destitute. 

During  the  forenoon  of  the  day  which  followed  this 
strange  night  adventure,  we  were  visited  at  the  convent 
by  a large  number  of  foreigners — Scotch,  Irish,  Eng- 
lish, German,  French,  and  American.  Our  Yankee  ac- 
quaintance also  made  his  appearance,  with  several  of 
his  companions,  and  for  an  hour  or  two  the  old  cloisters 
fairly  rang  with  laughter  at  his  merry  jokes.  The  mad 
wag  had  an  inexhaustible  fund  of  humorous  anecdote, 
and  one  great  charm  about  his  jokes  was,  that  while 
his  hearers’  sides  were  shaking  at  their  recital,  his  own 
face  was  as  solemn  as  that  of  any  of  the  Yucatan  idols 
which  grace  the  volumes  of  Stephens  or  Norman.  A 
faint  twinkle  of  humour,  enough  to  show  that  he  felt 
the  full  comic  force  of  his  story,  might  be  seen  lurking 


1G4 


VISIT  TO  A CIRCUS. 


about  the  corners  of  his  eyes  ; but  farther  than  this  he 
did  not  indulge  in  outward  expressions  of  mirth. 

Among  those  who  visited  our  quarters  during  the 
day  were  several  of  the  wealthiest  foreign  merchants 
of  the  place.  As  Colonel  Cooke’s  party  had  not  taken 
San  Luis  in  their  route  there  had  been  no  call  upon 
their  charity,  and  they  immediately  set  about  raising  a 
handsome  subscription  of  money  and  clothing  for  the 
more  destitute  among  the  prisoners.  It  was  laughable 
to  see  some  of  the  latter,  who  had  for  months  been 
arrayed  only  in  rags,  now  suddenly  transformed  into 
shabby-genteel  dandies  by  the  timely  assistance  of  a 
suit  of  fashionable,  although  second-hand  garments. 

At  night  a small  party  of  us  were  again  permitted  to 
visit  the  town  without  a guard,  and  the  next  day  the 
commandante  of  San  Luis  permitted  all  the  Texan  of- 
ficers to  ramble  about  the  town  on  their  parole.  In  the 
forenoon  I visited  a very  gentlemanly  Scotch  merchant 
of  the  place,  and  was  introduced  to  his  lady.  She,  too, 
was  a native  of  Scotland,  but  had  been  many  years  a 
resident  of  San  Luis,  and  was  very  affable  and  lady- 
like in  her  deportment.  She  was  also  very  liberal  in 
her  gifts  to  the  prisoners — especially  to  such  of  them  as 
were  her  countrymen. 

A performance  was  given  in  the  afternoon  by  the 
equestrians,  the  large  arena  in  which  the  bull-fights 
take  place  having  been  neatly  fitted  up  by  the  com- 
pany. To  this  performance  we  were  all  invited,  and 
some  eight  or  ten  accepted  the  invitation.  We  found 
the  arena  tolerably  well  filled  with  the  better  classes 
of  the  place,  and  among  the  audience  were  many  ex- 
tremely well-dressed  ladies.  They  wore  not  a little 
jewelry,  and  many  of  them  had  rich  and  showy  man- 
tillas ; but  by  far  the  greatest  charm  about  them  was 


UNINVITED  GUESTS. 


165 


their  large,  liquid,  black  eyes,  so  full  of  deep  and  im- 
passioned feeling.  The  riding  of  the  American  eques- 
trians appeared  to  be  new  to  the  audience,  and  was 
greeted  with  repeated  shouts  of  applause,  while  the  an- 
tics, eccentricities,  and  jokes  of  the  Mexican  clown,  all 
of  which  had  been  drilled  into  him  by  the  wag  of  a 
Yankee  who  managed  the  concern,  proved  highly  di- 
verting to  the  crowd  of  ragged  urchins  in  attendance. 

A small  party  of  us  had  received  an  invitation  to  sup- 
per that  evening,  with  a German  who  had  lived  in  Texas 
and  who  spoke  English,  and  while  seeking  his  dwelling 
we  accidentally  entered  the  house  of  another  German, 
who  was  one  of  the  wealthiest  merchants  of  the  place, 
and  lived  in  a style  of  great  splendour.  Some  five  or 
six  of  us  found  ourselves  suddenly  in  a richly-furnished 
drawing-room,  in  which  were  seated  several  Mexican 
ladies.  They  manifested  not  the  least  constraint,  but 
invited  us  to  be  seated  at  once,  and  entered  into  conver- 
sation with  such  of  our  party  as  could  speak  the  Span- 
ish. The  master  of  the  house,  too,  politely  invited  us  to 
take  wine  with  him,  and  although  we  did  not  see  the  gen- 
tleman, whose  invitation  we  had  accepted,  in  the  room, 
there  was  nothing  in  the  deportment  of  those  present  to 
denote  that  we  were  unwelcome  or  even  uninvited 
guests.  After  we  had  spent  some  half  an  hour  in  this 
way,  the  real  individual  of  whose  hospitality  we  had 
intended  to  partake  arrived  in  search  of  us,  and  then 
for  the  first  time  we  discovered  our  mistake.  After  a 
profusion  of  apologies  on  our  part,  which  were  deemed 
entirely  unnecessary  by  the  parties  upon  whom  we  had 
thus  unceremoniously  intruded,  we  took  our  leave,  but 
not  until  we  had  been  urged  to  take  another  glass  of 
wine.  Even  the  ladies  joined  in  saying  that  all  apolo- 
gies were  unnecessary,  and  fairly  laughed  the  thing  oil 
as  a most  excellent  joke. 


166 


SMALL-POX  SPREADING. 


Arrived  at  length  at  the  house  for  which  our  visit 
was  intended,  we  there  found  an  excellent  supper  and 
wines  of  the  choicest  description  waiting  for  us.  After 
passing  a couple  of  hours  in  their  discussion,  and  in 
speculation  as  to  what  disposition  the  Mexican  govern- 
ment would  make  of  us  after  our  arrival  at  the  cap- 
ital, we  returned  to  our  quarters  in  the  convent.  Here 
we  ascertained  that  we  were  to  renew  our  march  the 
next  morning,  and  as  I found  Falconer,  who  had  not 
been  allowed  to  leave  the  convent,  busily  employed  in 
writing  letters,  I embraced  the  opportunity  again  to  ad- 
dress Mr.  Ellis,  then  our  minister  at  Mexico.  I also 
wrote  numerous  letters  to  my  friends  in  the  United 
States,  all  of  which,  through  the  assistance  of  the  friend 
who  took  charge  of  them,  arrived  in  safety. 

It  was  on  the  morning  of  the  12th  of  January  that 
we  took  our  departure  from  San  Luis  Potosi,  leaving 
six  or  seven  of  our  sick  in  the  hospital — men  who  were 
down  with  the  small-pox  and  other  diseases,  and  utterly 
unable  to  travel.  A large  supply  of  clothing  was  dis- 
tributed among  the  more  destitute  the  evening  before, 
and  also  a small  sum  of  money  to  each  man — contribu- 
tions which  had  been  raised  principally  among  the  lib- 
eral foreign  residents. 

Roblado,  much  to  the  satisfaction  of  the  prisoners, 
left  us  at  San  Luis.  Among  our  unfortunate  men  he 
had  obtained  the  cognomen  of  “ Salezar  the  Second,” 
and  by  his  acts  of  petty  tyranny  and  cruelty  to  such  as 
were  on  foot,  had  doubtless  well  earned  the  title.  Our 
new  guard  was  composed  entirely  of  cavalry,  whose 
commander  was  a polite  and  gentlemanly  person,  dis- 
posed to  grant  us  every  favour  and  indulgence.  I have 
forgotten  the  name  of  this  officer,  but  he  had  been  a 
prisoner  himself  in  Texas,  and  frequently  spoke  of  the 


A WEALTHY  PROPRIETOR. 


167 


excellent  treatment  he  received  while  in  that  country. 
An  incident  extremely  interesting  occurred  when  he 
first  appeared  among  us.  It  seems  that  at  the  retreat, 
after  the  battle  of  San  Jacinto,  this  officer  was  wound- 
ed in  the  chase,  captured  by  a Texan,  and  afterward 
quartered  by  him  at  the  house  of  a gentleman,  who 
dressed  his  wound  and  bestowed  upon  him  every  atten- 
tion. In  the  person  of  Lieutenant  Casey,  one  of  our  of- 
ficers, he  immediately  recognised  his  former  captor  and 
benefactor,  and  the  nature  of  the  meeting  between  them 
it  is  easier  to  imagine  than  describe. 

Passing  through  a fertile  and  thickly-settled  country, 
the  fields  many  of  them  fenced  in  with  the  organo  and 
prickly  pear,  we  reached  the  hacienda  of  Las  Pilas  early 
in  the  afternoon,  and  halted  there  for  the  night.  I recol- 
lect but  little  of  this  place,  other  than  that  I hired  a very 
pretty  girl  to  wash  a shirt  and  handkerchief.  The  next 
day  we  continued  our  journey  through  the  beautiful 
valley  of  San  Francisco,  one  of  the  most  fertile  in  Mex- 
ico. On  the  14th  of  January  we  arrived  at  El  Jaral, 
the  celebrated  residence  of  the  count  of  that  name,  who 
is  deemed  one  of  the  wealthiest  proprietors  in  all  Mex- 
ico. The  town,  which  is  owned  by  Jaral,  has  a fine 
church,  and  an  immense  slaughter-house,  where  about 
a thousand  sheep  and  goats  are  said  to  be  killed  daily 
for  their  hides  and  tallow  alone.  The  residence  of  the 
count  himself  is  a large  and  imposing  building,  although 
destitute  of  architectural  beauty.*  The  dwellings  of 
his  peons,  or  labourers,  and  there  are  some  two  thou- 
sand of  them,  are  mostly  rude  adobe  huts,  destitute  of 

* Ward,  in  his  useful  work  upon  Mexico,  says  that  the  live  stock  owned 
by  the  Marquis  del  Jaral  at  one  time  numbered  three  millions,  including  hor- 
ses, mules,  horned  cattle,  sheep,  and  goats.  The  famous  General  Mina,  with 
his  small  but  gallant  force  of  Americans,  took  this  town  in  1817,  and,  accord- 
ing to  the  statement  of  the  proprietor,  robbed  him  of  $300,000  in  specie. 


168 


A HOG  ON  HORSEBACK. 


furniture  and  every  comfort.  You  may  call  them  by 
what  name  you  will  — Mexican  citizens,  freemen,  or 
what  not — many  of  them  are  to  all  intents  slaves — serfs, 
subject  to  the  will  and  pleasure  of  the  lord  of  the  im- 
mense manor. 

We  had  proceeded  but  a short  distance  from  El  Jaral 
when  we  encountered  a singularly  grave,  and,  at  the 
same  time,  ludicrous  procession.  Borne  on  the  shoul- 
ders of  four  men  came  first  a litter,  on  which  a corpse 
was  lying.  This  was  decorated  with  flowers  of  differ- 
ent species,  and  the  bearers  were  carrying  it  to  El  Ja- 
ral for  interment.  Not  a creature,  save  the  four  men 
who  bore  the  litter,  was  attached  to  this  singular  funer- 
al procession,  but  immediately  in  the  rear,  and  as  if  en- 
joying such  protection  as  it  afforded,  was  a female  dri- 
ving a little  scrubby,  half-starved  donkey  in  the  same 
direction.  Upon  the  back  of  the  ass,  with  his  head 
turned  towards  the  animal’s  tail,  a large  and  extremely 
fat  live  hog  was  riding — the  first  of  the  swinish  race  I 
had  ever  seen  mounted.  His  four  legs  were  confined, 
two  on  either  side  of  the  animal  which  was  bearing  him 
along;  and  the  hog  was  continually  changing  the 
position  of  his  head  from  one  side  to  the  other,  in  order, 
apparently,  to  take  the  greatest  possible  comfort  under 
the  circumstances.  I cannot  say  that  his  equestrian 
performance  was  altogether  as  graceful  as  some  I have 
seen,  or  that  he  had  that  dauntless  bearing  which  gives 
to  feats  of  horsemanship  their  greatest  charm ; but  he 
certainly  manifested  a resignation  and  stoical  indiffer- 
ence which  could  hardly  have  been  expected,  and  we 
laughed  outright  as  the  dwarfish  donkey,  with  his 
whimsical  rider,  trotted  past  us,  chief  mourner,  as  one 
of  our  men  remarked,  for  the  person  borne  upon  the 
litter.  I have  often  heard  of  a “ hog  in  armour,”  but 
never  expected  to  see  a hog  on  horseback. 


CURIOUS  MODE  OF  TRANSPORTATION. 


169 


It  is  singular  enough,  and  a matter  which  strikes 
every  traveller  with  wonder  who  journeys  through 
Mexico,  with  what  facility  the  arrieros,  or  muleteers, 
can  confine  almost  any  burden  upon  the  backs  of  ass- 
es and  mules.  Frequently  we  met  moving  fodder- 
stacks  along  the  road — many  of  them  nearly  the  size 
of  a common  load  of  hay — and  as  no  living  thing  could 
be  seen  about  them,  their  appearance  at  first  struck  us 
as  curious  in  the  extreme.  Large  bodies  of  wheat- 
straw,  square  and  compact,  and  reaching  within  an 
inch  of  the  ground,  would  be  seen  approaching  us,  and 
it  was  only  when  we  bent  close  to  the  earth  that  their 
locomotive  power  could  be  seen.  By  looking  in  this 
position  the  four  feet  of  the  animal  beneath  the  stack 
could  be  discovered — head,  body,  ears,  and  all  being 
alike  concealed  under  the  bulky  load  which  was  pack- 
ed, with  the  greatest  regard  to  symmetry,  upon  his 
back.  Almost  the  entire  transportation  business  of  the 
country  is  carried  on  in  this  way,  and  the  traveller  sees 
boxes,  bales,  barrels — in  short,  every  species  of  mer- 
chandise— carried  from  one  point  to  another  securely 
packed  upon  the  backs  of  mules  and  asses. 

The  arrieros  of  Mexico  are  the  most  hardy,  brave, 
generous,  and  trustworthy  of  her  inhabitants — a class 
of  men  in  whom  the  utmost  reliance  can  be  placed,  and 
whose  calling,  requiring  them  to  be  constantly  roaming 
from  point  to  point  and  mixing  with  the  world,  supplies 
them  with  a fund  of  anecdote  and  the  legendary  lore 
of  the  country,  and  renders  them  well-informed  and  ex- 
ceedingly entertaining  companions.  From  what  I saw 
and  heard  of  them  they  are  universally  to  be  trusted 
with  any  charge,  and  their  word  may  invariably  be 
depended  upon — which  is  a good  deal  more  than  can 
Vol.  II.— P 


170 


MEXICAN  ARRIEROS. 


be  said  of  any  other  class,  as  a body,  in  Mexico,  whether 
civil,  military,  or  ecclesiastical. 

The  dress  of  the  arriero  is  a pair  of  green  or  blue 
broadcloth  pantaloons,  foxed  or  trimmed  with  velvet 
or  morocco,  and  slashed  from  the  knee  downward, 
while  the  sides  are  ornamented  with  a profusion  of 
bright  bell-buttons.  Under  these  he  wears  flowing 
linen  drawers,  and  both  are  confined  around  the  waist 
by  a gay  sash.  The  bosom  of  the  shirt  is  often  elabo- 
rately worked,  and  over  this  a close-fitting  jacket,  dec- 
orated with  a large  quantity  of  bell-buttons  and  braid, 
is  worn.  Attached  to  his  heels  are  an  immense  pair 
of  iron  or  steel  spurs,  the  rowel  of  a circumference 
equal  to  the  palm  of  his  hand,  and  having  little  steel 
ornaments  at  the  sides,  which  tinkle  at  every  step.  A 
wide-brimmed  hat,  partially  pointed  at  the  top,  covered 
with  oiled  silk,  and  around  which  gold  or  silver  braid 
and  tassels  are  confined,  sits  jauntily  upon  the  head ; 
and  thus  equipped,  and  mounted  upon  his  richly-capar- 
isoned horse  or  mule,  the  Mexican  muleteer  is  one  of 
the  most  picturesque,  as  well  as  showy  horsemen  in  the 
world. 

The  stock  in  trade  of  the  arriero  consists  of  as  many 
mules  as  he  has  money  to  purchase,  with  an  aparejo 
for  each.  The  latter  is  nothing  more  than  a heavy, 
clumsy  pack-saddle,  confined  to  the  mule’s  back  by  a 
hair-girth,  and  kept  from  slipping  too  far  forward  by  a 
wide  crupper,  which  is  frequently  embroidered,  and 
has  the  name  either  of  the  mule  or  his  master,  or,  per- 
haps, a couplet  of  poetry  or  some  old  Spanish  proverb 
applicable  to  the  calling  of  the  arriero,  worked  with 
thread  upon  its  sides.*  At  night,  the  mules  are  formed 

* On  the  crupper  of  a pack-mule  I remember  reading  the  following : “ Be- 
tween women  and  wine  the  poor  arriero  gets  nothing." 


MANAGEMENT  OF  THEIR  BEASTS.  171 

in  line  and  unpacked,  and  then  either  driven  to  pasture 
or  fed  at  the  corral  attached  to  the  meson.  In  the 
morning,  the  animals  walk  directly  up  to  their  saddles, 
and  there  stand  patiently  until  packed.  Not  unfre- 
quently  does  it  occur  that  each  mule  knows  his  own 
particular  aparejo,  and  unerringly  picks  it  out  from  a 
hundred  ranged  in  a row;  should  one  of  them,  more 
stupid  or  careless  than  his  fellows,  chance  to  take  his 
stand  in  front  of  another’s  saddle  and  load,  the  real 
owner  soon  convinces  him  of  his  mistake  by  a shower 
of  well-directed  kicks  ; and  as  if  all  felt  it  a duty  to 
punish  stupidity,  the  unfortunate  animal  generally  has  a 
dozen  pairs  of  heels  flying  at  him  before  he  finds  his 
own  aparejo. 

The  work  of  packing,  when,  as  I have  before  stated, 
boxes,  bales,  barrels,  and  every  species  of  merchandise 
are  thus  transported  in  Mexico,  occupies  an  incredibly 
short  time,  the  arriero  superintending  his  mozos,  or  ser- 
vants, and  directing  them  how  and  upon  what  mules  to 
pack  the  heavier  articles.  When  all  is  in  readiness  for 
the  journey,  he  leads  the  procession,  followed  by  some 
more  steady  and  aged  mule,  which  is  looked  upon  by 
his  followers  as  the  bell-wether  of  the  gang.  So  tight- 
ly drawn  are  the  girths,  that  the  animals  are  not  only 
galled,  but  frequently  find  much  difficulty  in  breathing, 
and  in  the  early  part  of  a day’s  journey  manifest  not  a 
little  pain  and  uneasiness  by  tossing  aloft  their  heads, 
and  giving  utterance  to  loud  grunts  or  groans  ; yet  it  is 
deemed  impossible  to  fasten  their  loads  securely  with- 
out thus  torturing  them,  their  backs  and  sides,  when  un- 
laden at  night,  giving  painful  evidence  of  their  sufferings 
during  the  day.  When  on  the  road  not  one  of  them 
can  be  coaxed  or  beaten  into  passing  their  leader,  and 
when  he  comes  to  a halt  they  also  stop  until  he  moves 


172 


THEIR  GOOD  QUALITIES. 


again.  Whenever  anything  breaks,  or  a pack  becomes 
loose,  the  mozo  is  at  hand  with  a blind  to  place  over 
the  mule’s  eyes,  and  a piece  of  raw-hide  in  his  pocket 
to  repair  damages.  Thus  the  whole  business  is  redu- 
ced to  a system. 

Such  is  the  arriero  of  Mexico,  and  such  he  will  con- 
tinue to  be  until  the  mountains  of  his  country  are  cut 
down,  and  the  steep,  craggy,  and  difficult  paths  are  turn- 
ed into  beaten  and  open  thoroughfares.  He  looks  to 
the  interest  of  those  who  employ  him  with  scrupulous 
care  ; takes  every  precaution  to  guard  the  goods  in- 
trusted to  his  charge  from  being  either  stolen  or  dam- 
aged. He  has  a nod  and  a sly  wink  for  every  pretty 
girl  he  meets  in  his  many  miles  of  travel,  can  carol  ev- 
ery rude  madrigal  known  in  the  land,  loves  his  honour 
and  his  religion,  hates  the  ladrones  and  leperos,  and  de- 
spises lying  and  deceit.  Would  that  all  the  inhabitants 
of  Mexico  were  arrieros,  or  as  honest  as  are  these  ro- 
ving landsmen. 


OPINIONS  OF  SANTA  ANNA. 


173 


CHAPTER  IX. 

A Night  at  San  Felipe. — Meeting  with  one  of  Mina’s  Soldiers. — Santa  Anna, 
and  the  Estimation  in  which  he  is  held  by  his  Countrymen. — San  Juan  de 
los  Llanos. — Sickness  and  Suffering. — Tedious  Mountain  March. — Pic- 
turesque Scenery. — Arparos  ; its  romantic  Situation. — Arrival  at  Silao. — 
An  American  Physician.— Kindness  of  an  English  Gentleman  and  his 
Lady. — Approach  to  Guanajuato.— Singular  Entry. — Laughable  Scenes. — 
Arrival  within  the  City. — Visits  from  the  Foreigners. — Fitzgerald  and 
others  taken  to  the  Hospital.. — Liberal  Contributions. — Opportunity  to 
escape. — Departure  from  Guanajuato. — Singular  Location  of  the  City. — 
La  Puerta. — Arrival  at  Salamanca. — System  of  Recruiting  Volunteers. — 
Celaya. — Generous  Conduct  of  Cortazar. — Sunday  at  Celaya. — The  Cathe- 
dral.—Singular  Customs  of  the  Indians.— Cock-fighting  at  the  Theatre. — 
“ El  Campanero  de  San  Pablo.” — A Spanish  Play. — Lady  Smokers. — De- 
parture from  Celaya. — Fertility  of  the  Baxio. — Calera. — An  early  Morn- 
ing March. — Distant  View  of  Queretaro. — Arrival  within  the  City. — Sin- 
gular Currency  and  amusing  Anecdote. — Soap  a legal  Tender. — A Stroll 
through  Queretaro. — American  Prisoners. — Spanish  System  of  Shaving. 
— Texans  Stoned  in  the  Market-place. — A Mexican  Restaurat. — Adven- 
ture with  a Friar. — Return  to  our  Quarters. 


The  night  following  our  departure  from  El  Jaral  we 
passed  at  San  Felipe,  the  second  town  taken  by  Hidal- 
go in  the  early  part  of  the  Mexican  Revolution.  At  that 
time  it  was  said  to  contain  sixteen  thousand  inhabitants ; 
there  are  not  half  that  number  now,  unless  I am  much 
deceived.  At  this  place  several  of  our  party  were 
treated  with  much  attention  by  a Mexican  gentleman, 
who  had  been  one  of  Mina’s  soldiers.  Of  Santa  Anna, 
and  his  ambitious  projects,  he  was  far  from  speaking  in 
complimentary  terms ; but  this  was  the  case  among  all 
classes.  From  the  best-bred  gentleman  down  to  the 
lowest  lepero,  all  were  loud  in  their  curses  of  the  des- 
pot and  his  schemes,  and  the  question  was  often  asked 
P 2 


174 


A PICTURESQUE  RANCHO. 


our  men  why  they  did  not  kill  him  when  he  was  in  their 
power ! 

On  our  next  day’s  journey  we  passed  a small  rancho 
known  as  La  Lorn,  and  at  night  reached  the  once 
wealthy  but  now  insignificant  hacienda  of  San  Juan  de 
los  Llanos,  or  St.  John  of  the  Plains.  By  this  time,  al- 
though all  of  us  had  set  out  from  San  Luis  in  good 
health,  several  of  our  party  were  down  with  the  small- 
pox, and  suffering  incredibly  from  being  compelled  to 
travel,  and  from  want  of  proper  medicines.  There  was 
no  way  of  leaving  them  behind,  however,  and  the  poor 
fellows  were  carried  along  in  the  wagons  furnished  at 
Zacatecas,  receiving  such  attentions  as  it  was  in  the 
power  of  their  companions  to  bestow. 

After  an  exceedingly  long  and  tiresome  mountain 
march,  through  deep  and  ragged  barrancas  and  up 
steep  and  rugged  precipices,  such  of  us  as  were  on 
foot  or  had  animals  reached  the  little  mountain  rancho 
of  Arparos  late  on  the  afternoon  of  the  17th  of 
January.  The  wagons  were  taken  by  some  round- 
about and  more  level  road,  and  did  not  join  us  until  late 
at  night ; yet  even  they  had  been  several  times  upset, 
and  were  much  shattered  by  the  roughness  of  the  jour- 
ney. The  little  adobe  church  at  this  rancho  was  clear- 
ed of  its  holy  furniture  to  accommodate  some  of  our 
party,  while  three  or  four  of  us  hired  a room  of  one  of 
the  villagers  in  which  to  pass  the  night. 

Nothing  can  exceed  the  grandeur  and  picturesque 
beauty  of  the  site  which  has  been  chosen  for  the  little 
rancho  of  Arparos.  The  road  to  it,  in  both  directions, 
leads  through  rugged  mountain  gorges  and  across  swift- 
running  streams — now  climbing  steep  acclivities,  and 
then  descending  into  deep  and  secluded  barrancas — 
dark  and  dreary  except  when  the  sun  is  at  his  meridian. 


A BENEVOLENT  LADY. 


175 


The  prickly  pear,  or  nopal,  here  attains  much  perfec- 
tion, but  other  than  this  there  is  scarcely  a blade  of  ve- 
getation save  here  and  there  a small  patch  of  corn, 
found  in  some  little  valley  where  the  wash  from  the 
surrounding  mountains  has  formed  a soil. 

The  next  day  we  reached  Silao,  a town  containing 
some  four  or  five  thousand  inhabitants,  and  situated  in  a 
fertile  plain.  Here  we  met  an  American  physician,  and 
an  English  gentleman  to  whose  house  a small  party  of 
us  were  invited  to  supper.  He  was  a resident  of  Gua- 
najuato, and  a very  influential  man  in  that  city ; but 
during  a portion  of  the  year  he  made  Silao  his  residence 
on  account  of  the  superior  salubrity  of  its  climate.  We 
found  his  wife,  who  was  an  English  lady,  a kind-heart- 
ed, interesting  woman,  disposed  to  render  every  atten- 
tion to  such  of  our  party  as  were  ill  with  the  small-pox, 
and  there  were  now  some  twelve  or  fifteen  on  the  list. 
She  sent  them  a large  quantity  of  hot  tea  and  such 
other  necessaries  as  she  thought  they  would  stand  most 
in  need  of,  while  her  husband  said  that  he  would  leave 
for  Guanajuato  early  the  next  morning,  and  use  all  his 
influence  with  the  authorities  to  induce  them  to  allow 
such  as  were  really  unable  to  travel  permission  to  re- 
main at  the  hospital  in  that  city. 

By  making  an  early  start  on  the  morning  of  the  19th, 
we  were  enabled  to  reach  Guanajuato  before  the  mid- 
dle of  the  day.  Our  approach  and  entry  into  that  city 
were  characterized  by  one  of  the  most  laughable  exhi- 
bitions that  occurred  on  the  whole  route  from  San  Mi- 
guel to  Mexico.  It  is  almost  impossible  so  to  describe  the 
scene  as  to  give  it  full  effect,  but  I shall  make  the  attempt. 

When  within  some  five  miles  of  Guanajuato  numer- 
ous market-men  were  encountered,  driving  before  them 
the  donkeys  that  had  borne  their  produce  to  the  city. 


A LUDICROUS  ADVENTURE. 


As  many  of  our  men  were  foot-sore  from  the  tedious 
mountain  march  of  the  previous  day,  the  officer  who 
had  charge  of  us  immediately  pressed  the  animals  into 
service,  and  told  the  Texans  to  mount  them.  It  was 
in  vain  the  owners  of  the  animals  expostulated,  and  told 
our  captain  that  they  were  in  haste  to  return  to  their 
homes — he  not  only  reiterated  his  order  for  our  men  to 
seize  the  unsuspecting  donkeys  by  the  ears  and  mount 
them  at  once,  but  commanded  their  owners  to  assist  in 
driving  them.  As  we  gradually  approached  the  city 
the  number  of  asses  increased,  and  before  we  entered 
the  suburbs  every  Texan  was  perched  upon  the  back 
of  a donkey,  without  saddle  or  bridle,  and  of  such  low 
stature  were  many  of  the  animals,  that  their  riders  were 
fairly  compelled  to  draw  up  their  legs  to  keep  their  feet 
from  dragging  on  the  ground. 

The  whole  scene  was  ludicrously  rich,  and  afforded 
infinite  amusement  not  only  to  the  guard  of  dragoons 
who  accompanied  us,  and  the  throngs  of  men  and 
women  gathered  upon  either  side  of  the  streets,  but  to 
the  Texans  themselves.  In  fact,  all  appeared  to  enjoy 
the  comical  appearance  of  our  procession,  save  the  don- 
keys and  their  unfortunate  owners. 

Shouts  of  every  description  rent  the  air  as  we  thus 
journeyed  along.  “ Here  comes  the  Texas  heavy  light 
cavalry,”  some  fellow  would  cry  aloud,  and  the  next 
moment,  perhaps,  he  would  measure  his  length  upon 
the  ground  by  one  of  those  peculiar  pitches  and  kicks 
understood  and  practised  only  by  animals  of  the  donkey 
race.  At  every  step  some  one  of  the  animals  would 
take  it  into  his  head  to  run  away — his  next  neighbour, 
very  likely,  would  at  the  same  time  make  up  his  mind 
not  to  move  at  all  ; an  obstinate  whim  which  it  is  ex- 
tremely difficult  to  beat  out  of  a jackass.  Shouts  of 


o.ruWL/TTM'vfiJi-s.'  ,r,@  jlsis' 


' 


■ 

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GUANAJUATO. 


177 


laughter  from  the  Texans  would  ensue  as  some  one  of 
the  animals  indulged  in  an  extra  freak  of  eccentricity, 
and  mixed  with  the  laughter  the  muttered  curses  and 
deep  imprecations  of  the  owners  could  be  distinctly 
heard.  They  were  anxious  to  be  relieved  as  soon  as 
possible  from  this  extra  duty  which  had  been  imposed 
upon  them,  and  accordingly  pressed  their  overburdened 
animals  along  by  those  incentives  a Mexican  knowrs  so 
well  how  to  use.  “ Hip-ah  ! burro  !”*  resounded  on 
every  side,  accompanied  by  blows  and  kicks — “Tchew, 
tchew,  tchew,”  an  unmeaning  sound,  but  used  as  an  en- 
couragement for  the  animals  to  move  faster,  was  freely 
administered  at  every  step. 

When  once  within  the  city,  among  its  dark  and  nar- 
row  streets,  the  services  of  the  donkeys  were  dispensed 
with,  and  their  unfortunate  owners  set  off  for  their 
homes  in  no  good-humour.  We  were  then  taken  com- 
pletely through  Guanajuato,  and  finally  lodged  at  the 
soldiers’  barracks — clean  and  airy  quarters.  My  de- 
scription of  our  singular  entry  into  one  of  the  proudest 
and  richest  cities  of  Mexico  falls  far  short  of  the  real 
scene  itself — it  is  utterly  impossible  to  draw  a correct 
picture  of  a performance  which  not  one  of  those  who 
took  a part  in  it,  either  as  spectator  or  actor,  can  ever 
forget. 

We  had  scarcely  reached  our  quarters  before  we 
were  visited  by  numerous  foreigners — English,  Irish, 
and  American — who  at  once  inquired  into  the  wants  of 
the  prisoners,  and  promised  to  render  every  assistance. 
As  was  the  case  at  San  Luis  Potosi,  Colonel  Cooke’s 
party  not  having  passed  through  the  place,  the  foreign 
residents  had  not  been  called  upon  to  contribute  and 
render  assistance  to  their  countrymen  in  distress. 

* Burro — the  Spanish  name  for  a jackass. 


178 


NUMBER  OF  SICK  INCREASING. 


Accompanied  by  the  Mexican  physicians  attached  to 
the  hospital,  several  of  the  foreign  medical  men  exam- 
ined such  of  our  party  as  had  the  small-pox  or  other 
diseases,  and  permission  was  granted  for  eighteen  of 
them  to  be  taken  immediately  to  the  hospital,  there  to 
remain  until  their  recovery,  or  till  death  should  release 
them  from  their  sufferings. 

Among  those  more  severely  affected  with  the  loath- 
some malady,  now  rapidly  spreading  among  us,  were 
Captain  Caldwell  and  poor  Fitzgerald.  The  latter  was 
delirious  when  we  placed  him  in  the  litter  which  bore 
him  to  the  hospital,  and  strong  fears  were  entertained 
that  he  would  sink  under  the  disease  ; but  he  recover- 
ed, and  was  shortly  afterward  liberated  through  the 
exertions  of  the  British  minister  ; he  has  since  been  re- 
taken by  the  Mexicans,  and  shot  while  heroically  assist- 
ing his  comrades  to  escape.  Captain  Caldwell  also  re- 
covered from  the  small-pox,  and  was  released  by  Santa 
Anna  with  the  rest  of  the  Texan  prisoners,  but,  as  I 
have  before  mentioned,  has  since  died  in  Texas.  Of 
the  eighteen  left  at  Guanajuato,  five  died  and  were  bu- 
ried at  the  place — the  remainder  were  sent  to  Mexico 
on  their  recovery,  and  confined  with  their  comrades  at 
the  Convent  of  Santiago.  They  described  their  treat- 
ment as  extremely  kind  and  attentive  while  in  the  hos- 
pital, and  on  their  arrival  at  Mexico  they  were  all  well 
dressed. 

An  attempt  was  made  by  our  foreign  friends  to  in- 
duce the  commandante  to  allow  us  to  remain  at  Guana- 
juato one  day  ; but  as  all  the  sick  had  been  taken  care 
of,  and  the  governor  was  not  in  the  city,  he  did  not  feel 
at  liberty  to  grant  the  request.  Finding  themselves 
unable  to  delay  our  departure,  our  friends  redoubled 
their  exertions  in  obtaining  contributions,  and  the  next 


WELCOME  TIDINGS. 


179 


morning  a large  sum  of  money  and  a generous  supply 
of  clothing  were  distributed  among  our  men.  At  no 
place  on  the  route  did  the  foreigners  contribute  with 
greater  liberality  to  the  relief  of  the  unfortunate  Texans 
than  at  Guanajuato,  and  among  those  most  indefatiga- 
ble in  obtaining  these  necessaries  was  the  gentleman  at 
whose  house  we  had  taken  supper  at  Silao. 

It  was  at  Guanajuato  that  I first  heard  of  the  arrival, 
at  the  city  of  Mexico,  of  one  of  my  associates  in  busi- 
ness, although  the  gentleman  who  gave  me  the  informa- 
tion could  not  learn  his  name.  Before  I received  this 
news  I had  half  made  up  my  mind  to  accept  an  offer 
made  me  to  escape,  an  American  gentleman  I had  met 
on  the  road  suggesting  a feasible  plan,  and  proffering 
me  every  assistance.  I was  to  be  provided  with  a 
horse,  a servant  who  spoke  English,  and  a passport,  and 
could  take  either  the  route  to  Tampico,  or  to  Mazatlan, 
on  the  Pacific,  the  escape  to  be  made  at  some  town  or 
rancho  between  Guanajuato  and  Queretaro.  The  gen- 
tleman appeared,  according  to  promise,  at  the  place 
appointed  ; but  by  this  time  I had  heard  of  the  arrival 
of  my  associate,  and  in  addition  to  this  I was  allowed 
my  parole  by  the  officer  then  in  charge  of  the  prisoners. 
To  run  away  under  these  circumstances  would  have 
involved  an  honourable  officer  in  difficulty,  and  brought 
more  rigorous  treatment  and  closer  confinement  upon 
my  companions ; and  taking  these  circumstances  into 
consideration,  I gave  up  all  thoughts  of  escaping.  Had 
I anticipated  the  sickness  and  loathsome  imprisonment 
yet  in  store  for  me,  I should  not  have  visited  the  city  of 
Mexico,  and  should  have  saved  the  United  States  and 
Mexican  governments  reams  of  correspondence  in  re- 
lation to  my  humble  self  and  case. 

About  ten  o’clock  on  the  morning  of  the  20th  of  Jan- 


180  DEPARTURE  FROM  GUANAJUATO 

uary  we  took  our  departure  from  Guanajuato,  out  route 
conducting  us  through  the  same  streets  by  which  we 
had  entered — I am  not  certain  that  there  is  any  other 
outlet  to  the  place.  The  city  is  built  in  a deep  but  nar- 
row ravine,  some  two  miles  in  length,  while  its  greatest 
width  is  perhaps  not  more  than  three  or  four  hundred 
yards.  On  either  side  high  and  precipitous  mountains 
rise — so  steep  that  the  very  goats  can  hardly  find  a 
road  up  their  sides.  There  are  but  two  or  three  main 
streets  ; but  these  run  the  whole  length  of  the  city,  are 
very  narrow,  and  the  houses  extremely  high,  so  that  a 
large  population  is  congregated  in  the  deep  and  dark 
barranca.  A more  singular  site  for  a city  probably 
does  not  exist  in  the  wide  world,  and  nothing  induced 
the  early  settlers  to  select  it  but  the  fact  that  the  sur- 
rounding mines  were  among  the  richest  and  most  pro- 
ductive in  the  country. 

After  crossing,  some  twenty  times,  a little  stream  of 
water  which  runs  through  the  principal  street  leading 
into  the  city,  and  after  passing  the  suburbs,  we  began 
the  ascent  of  the  mountains  at  the  only  point  where  a 
road  was  practicable.  A single  turn  shut  the  city  we 
had  just  left  completely  from  the  sight,  and  I doubt 
whether  there  is  more  than  one  spot  within  half  a mile 
from  which  even  the  highest  of  its  numerous  domes 
can  be  seen,  so  completely  is  Guanajuato  hidden  from 
the  world. 

At  night  we  halted  at  La  Puerta,  where  we  slept,  and 
the  next  afternoon  we  reached  the  city  of  Salamanca. 
This  is  a neat  and  tolerably  well-built  place,  containing 
several  colleges,  besides  convents  and  churches.  As 
we  were  leaving  it  the  next  morning,  I had  an  opportu- 
nity of  seeing  a volunteer  for  the  army  caught.  The 
man’s  crime  I did  not  learn,  nor  in  fact  could  I ascertain 


AN  AFFLICTED  MOTHER. 


181 


that  he  had  committed  any : be  this  as  it  may,  he  was 
seized  and  tied  in  front  of  the  meson  where  we  had 
passed  the  night,  and  dragged  onward  by  two  dragoons 
detailed  for  the  special  purpose  of  preventing  his  escape. 
The  fellow  had  a mother,  who,  with  tears  and  prayers, 
begged  the  commander  of  the  dragoons  to  release  her 
son.  The  officer  turned  a deaf  ear  to  her  entreaties, 
pushed  her  from  him,  and  strode  onward.  With  frantic 
shrieks  the  woman  sprang  after  him,  fell  at  his  feet,  and 
while  clinging  with  convulsive  grasp  to  his  knees, 
besought  him,  in  accents  most  piteous,  to  allow  her  son 
to  remain  with  her.  Again  the  officer  threw  the  wom- 
an from  him,  and  jumping  upon  his  horse,  was  soon  out 
of  hearing.  The  last  I saw  of  the  mother  she  was  fly- 
ing about  from  one  person  to  another,  wringing  her 
hands  in  the  very  phrensy  of  despair,  and  beseeching 
all  to  intercede  in  behalf  of  her  boy.  This  in  a repub- 
lic which  boasts  of  its  freedom,  and  cannot  issue  the 
most  trifling  despatch  without  tacking  “ God  and  liber- 
ty” to  some  part  of  it ! 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  22d  we  reached  Celaya,  a 
neat  and  busy,  but  small  city.  The  residence  of  General 
Cortazar,  the  gentlemanly  and  liberal  governor  of  the 
State  of  Guanajuato,  is  at  this  place.  From  him  and 
his  officers,  not  only  our  party  but  that  of  Colonel 
Cooke,  invariably  received  the  best  treatment ; and 
even  the  common  soldiers  of  our  guard,  while  within 
the  limits  of  Guanajuato,  appeared  to  partake  of  the 
better  qualities  of  the  generous  commandante  and  his 
officers. 

Cortazar  had  us  all  quartered  in  a clean  and  airy 
convent,  gave  us  the  full  liberty  of  the  city  on  parole,  and 
sent  word  that  we  might  remain  thirty-six  hours  in  the 
place  to  rest  and  recruit  ourselves.  This  favour  was 

Vol.  II.— Q 


182 


VISIT  TO  A COCK-PIT. 


the  more  agreeable  to  us,  as  the  following  day  was 
Sunday,  and  we  thus  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the 
religious  observances  and  public  amusements  by  which 
this  day  is  celebrated  in  a Mexican  city. 

At  an  early  hour  on  Sunday  morning  a small  party 
of  us  left  the  convent.  Our  first  stopping-place  was  at 
a meson  near  the  market  square,  where  we  partook  of 
as  good  a breakfast  as  the  tavern  afforded.  Our  next 
movement  was  to  the  principal  cathedral  of  Celaya,  to 
observe  the  religious  ceremonies  of  the  morning.  A 
party  of  Indians  were  in  attendance,  in  addition  to  the 
regular  worshippers,  and  the  strange  mingling  of  some 
of  their  own  customs  with  the  rites  of  the  established 
Catholic  Church,  formed  a picture  of  striking  singular- 
ity. The  early  Spanish  missionaries  were  never  able 
entirely  to  eradicate  the  superstitious  ceremonies  of  the 
original  inhabitants,  but  by  allowing  them  to  ingraft 
some  of  their  own  rites  upon  Catholicism,  they  partially 
brought  them  over  to  their  faith.  This  state  of  things 
still  continues,  and  the  religion  of  a large  portion  of  the 
mixed  classes  is  to  this  day  but  a blending  of  whimsi- 
cal and  grotesque  ceremonies  with  the  solemn  and  im- 
posing observances  which  appertain  to  the  religion  of 
the  Romish  Church. 

After  twelve  o’clock  the  innumerable  liquor-shops  of 
the  city  were  thrown  open,  and  in  the  afternoon  cock- 
fighting  commenced  at  the  theatre.  The  pit  seats  were 
taken  out  for  the  purpose,  and  on  visiting  it  we  found  a 
large  assembly  of  gamblers,  loafers,  gentlemen,  soldiers, 
and  priests  assembled  to  enjoy  the  sport.  The  Mexi- 
cans of  all  classes  are  passionately  fond  of  it,  and  will 
frequently  stake  their  all  upon  the  result  of  a single  fight. 

The  amusements  of  the  cockpit  over,  the  seats  were 
replaced,  and  every  preparation  made  for  the  produc- 


A SPANISH  PLAY. 


183 


tion  of  “ El  Campanero  de  San  Pablo ” — the  Bell-Ringer 
of  St.  Paul’s  — by  a Spanish  company  of  actors  then 
playing  at  Celaya.  This  performance  we  also  attended, 
and  found  the  house  well  filled  with  many  of  the  more 
fashionable  families  of  the  place,  and  among  them  that 
of  General  Cortazar.  Ladies  and  all,  as  is  the  custom 
in  a Mexican  theatre,  kept  up  an  incessant  smoking  be- 
tween the  acts,  and  the  rising  of  the  curtain  even  was 
no  signal  for  them  to  throw  away  their  cigarritos.  The 
drama  was  a translation  from  the  French,  but  is  found- 
ed on  a story  of  the  reign  of  Charles  I.  of  England,  and 
is  extremely  popular  in  Mexico.  The  actors  were  all 
perfect  in  their  parts,  but  the  play  dragged  heavily 
enough  along  to  those  who  but  imperfectly  understood 
the  language,  and  after  seeing  three  acts  of  it,  and  inha 
ling  cigar  and  candle  smoke  until  we  were  half  suffoca- 
ted, we  returned  to  our  quarters.  Thus  did  we  spend 
our  Sunday  at  Celaya. 

On  the  next  morning  we  took  our  departure  from  this 
hospitable  town.  As  we  were  about  starting,  it  was 
ascertained  that  young  Curtis  Caldwell  had  broken  out 
with  the  small-pox.*  He  was  not  more  than  fourteen 
years  old,  but  an  extremely  intelligent  and  active  lad 
for  his  age,  and  Cortazar  had  him  taken  to  his  own 
house  and  treated  with  every  possible  attention.  On 
his  recovery  he  was  sent  to  his  father  at  Guanajuato, 
and  finally  returned  to  Texas  with  him. 

In  the  afternoon  of  the  24th  we  reached  a miserable 
rancho  called  Calera.  During  the  palmy  days  of  Gua- 
najuato, when  the  mines  of  that  district  yielded  their  rich- 
est treasures  and  employed  immense  numbers  of  men, 
the  Baxio,  or  fertile  valley  in  which  Salamanca,  Celaya, 

* His  father,  it  will  be  remembered,  had  been  left  at  Guanajuato  with  the 
same  disease. 


184 


DEFENCE  AGAINST  THIEVES. 


and  innumerable  rich  haciendas  are  situated,  found  a 
ready  market  for  the  corn  and  wheat  grown  upon  its 
surface ; but  now  that  the  demand  has  been  in  a great 
measure  cut  off,  the  estates  are  gradually  sinking  in  value 
and  going  out  of  cultivation. 

In  one  part  of  this  valley — I think  between  Queretaro 
and  San  Juan  del  Rio — the  traveller  passes  through  an 
immense  corn-field,  or  rather  a succession  of  corn- 
fields, miles  in  extent,  the  produce  of  which  supplies 
the  neighbouring  cities.  During  a march  of  nearly  two 
days  nothing  could  be  seen  on  any  side  but  stacks  of 
Indian  corn,  the  husks  still  on,  and  each  stack  surmount- 
ed with  a rude  wooden  cross.  The  owners  of  the 
grain  had  taken  the  latter  precaution,  so  it  was  told  us, 
to  prevent  the  ladrones  from  preying  upon  their  proper- 
ty ; for  it  is  said  that  nothing  can  induce  the  most  hard- 
ened thief,  in  that  country  of  petty  pilferers,  to  touch 
aught  which  is  thus  guarded.  Whether  this  is  true  or 
false  is  a point  upon  which  I do  not  intend  to  decide ; 
if  true,  I can  say  that  it  is  much  the  cheapest  and  safest 
method  of  preventing  theft  that  could  be  devised  in  Mex- 
ico, and  I would  prefer  having  my  property  under  the 
guardianship  and  protection  of  one  wooden  cross  than  of 
twenty  armed  men.  Robert  Macaire  would  have  starv- 
ed to  death  had  his  lot  fallen  among  Mexican  ladrones. 
and  the  noted  “ Pony  Club”  of  Georgia  might  have  found 
valuable  members  by  sending  to  Mexico.* 

* The  candidate  for  admission  into  this  “ Club”  was  obliged  to  pass  through 
the  following  ordeal  successfully  before  he  could  receive  his  diploma,  or  cer- 
tificate of  membership.  A committee  of  passed  members  conducted  the  tyro 
to  a secluded  place  in  the  woods,  placed  a hat  upon  a stump  or  rock  in  a con- 
spicuous position,  and  then  arranged  themselves  around  it  in  such  situations 
that  all  could  plainly  see  the  hat.  If  the  candidate  was  successful  in  stealing 
it,  while  all  were  watching,  he  was  at  once  admitted  into  full  communion 
and  fellowship  ; if  not,  he  was  dismissed  with  advice  to  practise  still  farther 
his  “ slight-of-hand”  tricks,  and  by  untiring  industry  endeavour  better  to  qual- 


A SPLENDID  SUNRISE. 


185 


Finding  that  he  could  procure  no  food  for  the  prison- 
ers at  Calera,  the  officer  who  had  charge  of  us  deter- 
mined upon  an  early  start  in  the  morning,  with  the  in- 
tention of  reaching  Queretaro  by  breakfast-time.  We 
were  all  in  motion  by  two  o’clock  ; and  so  raw  and  cold 
was  the  early  morning  air,  that  such  of  us  as  were 
mounted  dashed  onward  at  a brisk  gallop,  with  the  hope 
of  thus  obtaining  warmth  and  a circulation  of  the  blood. 
The  days,  at  this  time,  were  delightfully  warm  and 
pleasant,  but  the  extreme  height  of  the  table-lands  made 
the  nights  raw  and  chilly.  To  show  how  negligent 
were  the  dragoons  who  accompanied  us  as  a guard,  I 
may  add  that  the  little  party  with  whom  I made  the 
morning  ride  did  not  see  one  of  them  from  the  time 
we  set  off  until  we  had  nearly  reached  the  city  gates. 

We  were  but  a short  league  from  Queretaro  when 
the  sun  rose — within  sight  of  a city  whose  numerous 
public  buildings  and  works,  whose  lofty  and  imposing 
domes,  towers,  and  steeples,  present  to  the  view  of  the 
traveller,  enter  it  from  what  quarter  he  may,  a sight  than 
which  one  more  grand  and  magnificent  can  hardly  be 
imagined.  The  city  is  in  part  encircled  by  lofty  mount- 
ains, and  as  the  rising  sun  first  kissed  their  towering 
summits,  the  gray  and  sombre-shadowed  town,  lying  far 
beneath  them,  was  buried  in  profound  repose.  Anon, 
as  the  sun’s  rays  came  flashing  from  the  mountain  tops 
and  lit  up  the  higher  domes  of  the  place,  the  scene  as- 
sumed an  appearance  of  light  and  life.  Soon  the  sun 
itself  rose  from  behind  those  mountain  barriers,  and  the 
whole  city  was  at  once  aroused  by  its  animating  pres- 

ify  himself  for  the  high  station  to  which  he  aspired.  So  adroit  is  the  veriest 
dunce  among  the  Mexican  thieves,  that  he  could  steal  the  hat  from  the  very 
head  of  a sharp-sighted  man  without  being  detected,  even  if  the  latter  had 
friends  on  the  look-out  to  prevent  it. 

Q 2 


186 


QUERETARO. 


ence.  To  forget  that  morning’s  dawn  and  its  effect 
upon  Queretaro  were  impossible.  Now  a blushing  ray 
would  linger  and  play  upon  the  loftiest  peaks  of  the  sur- 
rounding mountains  ; the  next  moment  it  would  flash 
across  the  plain,  dispel  the  deep  shadows  from  the 
mountain  sides,  and  gild  some  towering  dome  with  a 
flood  of  light.  To  watch  the  bright  beams  reflected 
from  tower  to  tower  and  from  dome  to  dome — to  see 
the  dark  shadows  disappearing,  as  if  chased  from  their 
retreats  by  the  vivid  flashes  — and  then  to  behold  the 
entire  city  lit  up  as  by  enchantment — all  combined  to 
form  a spectacle  of  almost  inconceivable  grandeur.  The 
morning  was  now  bright,  beautiful,  and  balmy,  and  the 
stillness  which  surrounded  us  was  only  broken  by  the 
distant  deep-toned  bells  calling  the  dwellers  to  mass, 
and  that  busy  but  undefinable  hum  which  betokens  the 
awakening  of  a great  city  to  the  labour  of  another  day. 

As  the  last  straggling  loiterers  of  our  party  came  up, 
we  were  formed  in  regular  order,  and  then  marched 
through  the  city.  Quarters  had  been  procured  for  us 
at  an  old  convent  on  the  side  of  the  city  opposite  to  that 
by  which  we  entered — a vile,  dismal  hole  at  the  best — 
but  our  commandante  said  that  no  other  could  be  ob- 
tained. 

A circumstance  of  a very  amusing  nature  occurred 
while  the  officer  of  our  guard  was  absent  at  the  house 
of  the  commandante,  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  per- 
mission for  us  to  roam  about  the  city  on  parole.  We 
had  scarcely  been  ten  minutes  in  the  convent  when  we 
were  visited  by  the  usual  crowd  of  venders  of  oranges 
and  other  fruits,  women  with  tortillas,  frijoles,  and  gui- 
sado,  all  anxious  to  dispose  of  their  little  stock  in  trade. 
Mr.  Falconer  picked  out  some  half  dozen  oranges  and 
sweet  limes  from  the  basket  of  a fruit-girl,  and  in  pay- 


A CIRCULATING  MEDIUM. 


187 


ment  handed  her  a dollar.  There  was  not  small  coin 
enough  among  them  all  to  change  the  dollar,  and  Fal- 
coner sent  it  out  by  a corporal,  telling  him  to  get  it 
changed.  The  fellow  shortly  returned  with  sixty-four 
cakes  of  soap,  tied  up  in  a handkerchief.  Falconer  told 
the  corporal  he  wanted  change,  not  soap.  The  corpo- 
ral replied  that  it  was  the  currency  of  the  place — legal 
currency — and  that  there  was  no  other.  Such  proved 
to  be  the  case  ; and  however  singular  it  may  appear, 
soap  is  really  a lawful  tender  in  the  payment  of  all 
debts,  and  our  companion  was  compelled  to  keep  this 
singular  substitute  in  the  way  of  change  for  his  dollar. 
He  could  not  very  well  pocket  it,  as  there  was  nearly 
a peck  in  bulk. 

The  cakes  are  about  the  size  of  the  common  Windsor 
shaving-soap,  and  each  is  worth  one  cent  and  a half — 
in  fact,  a fraction  more,  as  eight  of  them  pass  for  twelve 
and  a half  cents,  or  sixteen  for  a quarter  of  a dollar. 
Each  cake  is  stamped  with  the  name  of  the  town  where 
it  is  issued,  and  also  with  the  name  of  the  person  who 
is  authorized  by  law  to  manufacture  it  as  a circulating 
medium  ; yet  Celaya  soap — for  it  also  circulates  in  that 
city — will  not  pass  at  Queretaro.  The  reason  I can- 
not divine,  as  the  size  and  intrinsic  value  appear  to  be 
the  same.  The  municipal  authorities  of  either  town 
appear  to  have  made  no  provision  for  equalizing  the 
exchanges  between  the  two  places,  and  there  are  no 
brokers’  offices  for  the  buying  and  selling  of  uncurrent 
soap  in  Mexico. 

Many  of  the  cakes  in  circulation  were  partially  worn, 
and  showed  evidence  indisputable  of  an  acquaintance 
with  the  wash-tub ; but  all  were  current  so  long  as  the 
stamp  was  visible.  Frequently  I remarked  that  our 
men  would  use  one  of  these  singular  bits  of  currency  in 


188 


SPANISH  MODE  OP  SHAVING. 


washing  their  hands  and  faces,  and  then  pass  it  off  for 
a plate  of  frijoles  or  an  orange.  Much  amusement,  too, 
did  we  have  among  ourselves  while  in  the  district  where 
it  passes  as  a legal  tender,  and  “ Are  you  out  of  soap  ?” 
and  “ How  are  you  off  for  soap  ?”  were  expressions 
continually  passing  from  mouth  to  mouth.  The  same 
cant  phrase  is  common  enough  in  the  United  States, 
and  has  been  for  years  ; but  how  it  originated  is  a mat- 
ter of  which  I am  most  profoundly  ignorant.  At  all 
events,  it  is  applicable  enough  in  some  parts  of  Mexico. 

In  the  afternoon  we  received  permission  to  roam 
through  the  city  without  a guard.  As  we  passed  a 
prison,  we  were  hailed  from  its  gloomy,  grated  windows 
by  a voice  in  oUr  own  language.  There  were  two 
Americans — natives  of  Philadelphia,  I believe — in  the 
prison,  who  had  been  employed  to  work  a woollen 
or  cotton  factory  near  Queretaro  at  a stipulated  sum. 
Their  employer  had  in  some  way  broken  his  faith,  and 
they  had  left  him ; but  his  power  was  superior,  and  he 
had  thrown  them  into  prison  to  gratify  a mean  spirit 
of  revenge.  We  told  them  that  we,  too,  were  prison- 
ers, unable  to  afford  them  assistance,  and  then  left  them 
with  wishes  for  their  speedy  release. 

We  next  strolled  through  the  principal  streets,  enter- 
ing some  of  the  stores,  taverns,  cigar,  and  barber  shops. 
In  one  of  the  latter  I noticed  two  men  busily  employed 
in  grinding  and  sharpening  gaffs  for  fighting-cocks, 
showing  that  this  amusement  is  common  among  the 
denizens  of  Queretaro.  One  man  was  shaving  a cus- 
tomer, but  instead  of  lathering  him  after  the  French  or 
English  fashion,  he  placed  a large  composition  or  silver 
basin,  having  a hollow  in  one  side  to  fit  the  neck,  di- 
rectly under  the  chin  of  the  customer,  and  then  soaped 
his  face  with  his  hands.  It  is  a vile  Spanish  custom, 


THE  PRISONERS  STONED. 


189 


this  ; but,  like  thousands  of  others  of  that  anti-go-ahead 
race,  is  persisted  in.  I thought  of  Don  Quixotte  and 
Mambrino’s  helmet  the  moment  I set  eyes  upon  one  of 
these  basins. 

In  our  stroll  we  passed  the  walls  of  ant  immense  con- 
vent or  nunnery,  said  to  be  a large  village  of  itself.  We 
could  only  see  the  tops  of  the  buildings  above  the  walls, 
for  no  one  is  allowed  to  pass  the  gates.  We  entered 
a large  dry  and  fancy  goods  store,  having  for  a sign 
“ Tienda  de  los  Palomos,”  or  Store  of  the  Doves.  Why 
the  Mexicans  name  their  shops  and  stores  after  cats, 
dogs,  doves,  and  other  birds  and  beasts,  is  a mystery 
to  me.  Their  fondas  and  mesones  all  have  religious 
names,  or  nearly  all.  It  was  quite  common  for  us  to 
stop  at  the  tavern  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  or  Hotel  of  the 
True  Cross,  and  others,  a translation  of  which  would 
appear  irreverent  and  almost  blasphemous  to  my  coun- 
trymen. 

Just  as  dark  was  setting  in,  and  while  three  of  us 
were  crossing  the  market-place  in  the  direction  of  a 
little  Mexican  restaurat,  several  stones  were  thrown  at 
us  from  the  dense  throng  at  that  hour  congregated  in 
the  square.  Fortunately  not  one  of  the  missiles  hit  us, 
although  they  whizzed  by  close  to  our  heads.  Who 
the  authors  of  this  outrage  were  we  did  not  ascertain ; 
but  they  were  probably  some  of  the  very  lowest  class, 
who  only  insulted  us  in  this  way  to  show  their  pitiful 
spite  at  our  nation  and  religion.  It  was  almost  the  only 
direct  insult  offered  us  south  of  El  Paso,  for  generally 
the  lower  orders  looked  upon  us  rather  as  objects  of 
pity  than  of  hatred  or  revenge.  We  immediately  en- 
tered the  restaurat,  after  the  outrage  had  been  commit- 
ted, and  called  for  a supper,  the  perpetrators  not  follow- 
ing or  molesting  us  farther. 


190 


A MENDICANT  FRIAR. 


While  we  were  waiting  for  our  meal,  a monk  or  friar, 
of  some  poor  and  abstemious  order,  entered  the  apart- 
ment with  a noiseless  step.  Tied  about  him  with  a 
piece  of  rope  was  a coarse  blanket  or  gown,  of  a gray- 
ish yellow  colour ; his  head  was  bare,  the  top  of  it  being 
close  shaven  ; and  he  may  have  been  barefooted,  for  I 
do  not  recollect  seeing  either  boot,  shoe,  or  sandal  upon 
his  feet.  In  his  hand  he  had  a small  tin  box,  resem- 
bling, in  many  respects,  a lantern.  At  all  events,  I took 
it  for  a lantern ; for  as  the  room  was  but  dimly  lighted, 
and  as  he  silently  held  the  box  close  to  my  face,  I thought 
he  was  endeavouring  to  scrutinize  my  countenance  with 
the  hope  of  recognising  me  by  some  mysterious  and 
hidden  light  it  might  contain.  A galopina,  or  kitchen 
girl,  standing  by,  soon  explained  the  business  of  the  holy 
brother  by  dropping  a quartillo  into  the  box  through  a 
hole  in  the  top,  which  I had  not  previously  seen.  Now 
the  mystery  was  solved — the  friar  was  holding  the  box 
in  my  face  for  alms.  Fearing  that  I might  have  insult- 
ed him  by  rudely,  although  innocently,  staring  in  his 
face,  I resolved  upon  purchasing  forgiveness  to  such 
extent  as  a quarter  of  a dollar  would  obtain,  and  ac- 
cordingly dropped  a coin  of  that  value  into  the  box. 
The  amount  purchased  my  pardon,  if  he  thought  I owed 
him  one  ; for,  making  a low  bow,  he  gave  me  his  bene- 
dicte,  and  then,  with  dignified  meekness,  left  the  room. 

Weary  from  our  long  walk,  and  the  early  morning 
ride,  we  remained  no  longer  than  to  obtain  our  supper, 
and  then  retired  to  our  quarters  at  the  old  convent, 
meeting  with  neither  obstruction  nor  insult  on  the  way. 


A GREAT  AQUEDUCT. 


191 


CHAPTER  X. 

Departure  from  Queretaro.— A stupendous  Aqueduct, — View  of  Queretaro 
from  a Mountain  Summit. — Number  and  Magnificence  of  its  Churches. — 
Meeting  with  Englishmen. — News  that  Colonel  Cooke's  Party  were  in 
Chains. — The  Diligence.— Letter  from  Mr.  Lumsden. — Liberation  of  Frank 
Combs— Arrival  at  San  Juan  del  Kio. — Escape  of  two  of  our  Companions. 
— They  are  retaken  and  punished. — The  Indian  Village  of  Tula. — Strange 
Celebration— Queer  Characters.— Crackers  and  Sky-rocket*— Approach 
to  the  City  of  Mexico.— Speculations  as  to  our  future  Lot.— Mr.  Navarro 
separated  from  his  Companions.  — Route  altered.  — “ Quien  Sabe  ?” — 
Kindness  of  the  Indian  Women. — Arrival  at  the  old  Palace  of  San  Cristo- 
bal.— The  Texans  locked  within  its  gloomy  Walls.  — Visited  by  Mr. 
Lumsden  and  other  Americans.— A joyful  Meeting. — Prospects  of  Release 
— Description  of  San  Cristobal. — Release  of  Falconer  and  Van  Ness. — 
Visited  by  Members  of  the  United  States  Legation.—  Difference  in  the 
Policy  of  the  United  States  and  English  Governments. — Cause  of  Mr. 
Falconer’s  Release. — Another  Visit  from  the  Americans. — File  of  Ameri- 
can Papers. — A Letter  from  Chihuahua,  and  its  Effects. — Gloomy  Presen- 
timents.— Our  Men  supplied  with  Clothing  and  Blankets. — Celebration  in 
Honour  of  Santa  Anna’s  Leg. — Supplies  cut  off. — Sufferings  on  the  In- 
crease.— Nothing  to  Eat.- — Resorts  of  the  Texans  to  obtain  Food. — Singu- 
lar Tribunals,  with  the  Results. — A Humorous  Witness. — Wild  Revel  in 
San  Cristobal. 

Immediately  on  leaving  Queretaro,  our  road  took  us 
directly  under  the  immense  aqueduct  which  supplies  the 
city  with  water.  This  aqueduct  is  a stupendous  work, 
having  been  built  many  years  since,  by  the  Spaniards, 
when  money  was  abundant  and  Indian  labour  easy  to 
command.  Pure  water  is  carried  by  this  means  across 
a wide  valley,  the  head  spring  being  on  a mountain  side 
at  a distance  of  some  six  or  eight  miles.  The  arches 
which  support  the  stupendous  fabric  are  of  stone,  lofty 
yet  light,  and  of  graceful  proportions.  Far  as  the  eye 
can  reach,  the  aqueduct  is  seen  stretching  across  the 
valley ; now  rising  high  above  the  surface  of  the  ground 


192 


A WELCOME  LETTER. 


as  some  low  place  is  crossed,  and  again  all  but  touching 
the  higher  undulations.  At  the  point  where  we  passed 
under  one  of  the  arches,  and  we  were  on  the  direct  road 
to  the  city  of  Mexico,  the  water  must  have  been  forty  or 
fifty  feet  above  us — perhaps  more. 

After  proceeding  but  a few  miles,  we  commenced  the 
ascent  of  a steep  and  lofty  chain  of  mountains.  Once 
at  their  summit,  the  view  of  Queretaro,  and  the  beauti- 
ful valley  in  which  it  lies,  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most 
lovely  in  all  Mexico.  The  number  of  inhabitants  in 
the  city  we  had  just  left  does  not  probably  exceed  fifty 
thousand,  but  as  is  the  case  in  every  large  town  of  the 
country,  there  are  churches  enough  to  supply  the  spir- 
itual wants  of  six  times  that  number  in  the  United  States. 
These  churches,  too,  are  built  upon  a scale,  both  in  size 
and  magnificence,  to  which  we  are  perfect  strangers, 
and  give  an  appearance  of  splendour  to  their  cities 
which  without  them  would  sink  into  comparative  insig- 
nificance. 

While  stopping  for  a short  time  to  rest,  during  the 
middle  of  the  day,  the  diligence  drove  up  on  its  way 
from  the  city  of  Mexico  to  Guanajuato.  Among  the 
passengers  were  two  or  three  Englishmen,  who  inform- 
ed us  that  in  consequence  of  the  escape  of  two  of  the 
men  attached  to  Colonel  Cooke’s  party,  they  had  all  been 
placed  in  irons.  As  to  what  disposition  Santa  Anna 
would  finally  make  of  them,  they  could  give  us  nothing 
but  mere  speculation  and  idle  rumour. 

During  our  next  day’s  march  we  again  met  the  stage 
ascending  a high,  steep  hill.  The  driver  stopped  to  al- 
low a passenger,  an  American  gentleman,  to  alight  for 
a moment.  He  inquired  for  me,  and  gave  me  a letter 
which  I at  once  knew  was  from  Mr.  Lumsden.  I have 
already  mentioned  that  I had  heard,  while  at  Guana- 


ESCAPE  OF  TWO  PEISONEES. 


193 


juato,  of  one  of  my  partners  having  reached  the  city  of 
Mexico  for  the  purpose  of  obtaining  my  liberation  as 
speedily  as  possible,  but  my  informant  could  not  give 
me  his  name,  and  until  this  moment  I did  not  know 
which  of  my  associates  was  thus  exerting  himself  in  mv 
behalf. 

It  will  be  readily  supposed  that  I devoured  the  con- 
tents of  this  letter  with  no  little  avidity.  It  was  to  the 
effect  that  young  Frank  Combs  had  been  liberated,  and 
that  every  exertion  should  be  made  to  effect  my  speedy 
release  on  reaching  the  city.  I had  all  along  supposed 
that  the  Mexican  government  could  not  possibly  detain 
me  twenty-four  hours,  after  a statement  of  the  manner 
of  my  arrest  and  the  circumstances  attending  it  was 
properly  laid  before  those  in  authority  by  Mr.  Ellis,  our 
then  minister ; but  in  these  anticipations  I was  destined 
to  be  most  grievously  disappointed.  Santa  Anna  had 
no  idea  of  letting  me  off  so  easily. 

We  arrived  at  the  town  of  San  Juan  del  Rio  on  the 
evening  of  January  27th.  This  place  is  situated  upon 
a small  river,  and  is  the  last  town  of  any  note  before  the 
traveller  reaches  Mexico,  although  the  remainder  of  the 
road  runs  through  a succession  of  villages.  We  met 
two  or  three  Americans  at  San  Juan,  who  only  corrob- 
orated the  story  that  our  comrades  in  Mexico  were 
chained  in  couples  and  compelled  to  toil  in  the  streets. 

We  had  proceeded  but  a short  distance  the  next  day 
before  it  was  discovered,  among  ourselves,  that  two  of 
our  men  had  made  their  escape — frightened  to  this  step 
probably  by  the  stories  of  chains  and  servitude.  We 
said  nothing  about  it  at  the  time ; but  when  our  guard 
counted  us  at  night  the  fact  of  their  having  escaped 
became  known.  They  were  afterward  retaken  by  a 
small  party  sent  out  for  the  purpose,  closely  guarded  to 

Vol.  II.— R 


194 


AN  INDIAN  VILLAGE. 


the  city  of  Mexico,  and  there  thrown  into  that  vilest  of 
holes,  the  Acordada,  as  a punishment  for  their  offence. 
With  but  a single  exception,  this  was  the  only  unsuc- 
cessful attempt  made  to  escape  while  we  were  in  the 
country. 

Early  in  the  afternoon  of  the  1st  of  February  we 
reached  the  large  Indian  village  of  Tula,  some  ten  or 
twelve  leagues  from  the  city  of  Mexico.  Scarcely  had 
we  entered  the  quarters  which  had  been  provided  for 
us,  at  a commodious  meson  fronting  immediately  upon 
the  market-square,  when  a confused  shouting  was  heard 
in  one  of  the  streets  leading  into  the  plaza — a hubbub  as 
of  boys  following  a military  volunteer  company  in  the 
United  States.  Before  we  had  time  to  reach  a corner 
of  the  square,  whence  the  shouting  appeared  to  come, 
we  encountered  a medley  and  most  singular  procession 
of  ragged  Indians.  Preceding  them  was  an  eccentric 
and  oddly-attired  personage,  who  appeared  not  only  to 
act  as  master  of  ceremonies,  but  took  it  upon  himself  to 
sell  invitations  to  join  in  the  grand  procession  and  a 
mass  which  accompanied  it.  One  of  these  invitations  I 
purchased.  It  was  written  on  a page  of  foolscap  pa- 
per, the  edges  embellished  with  a wide  and  gaudy  bor- 
der, within  which  was  a quotation  in  Spanish  from  the 
twenty-sixth  chapter  of  St.  Matthew,  thirty-ninth  verse 
— “ O my  father,  if  it  be  possible,  let  this  cup  pass  from 
me.”  Then  followed  a short  sketch  of  the  sufferings  of 
our  Savior,  of  his  great  love  for  our  fallen  race,  and  of 
his  betrayal  by  Judas,  while  at  the  bottom  of  all  was  an 
invitation  in  terms  somewhat  like  the  following:  “Cap- 
tain Don  Lauriano  Rodea  and  friends  supplicate  your 
assistance  on  the  1st  and  2d  days  of  February,”  and 
the  invitation  which  supplicated  for  this  assistance  was 
sold  for  dos  reales — twenty-five  cents. 


A STRANGE  PROCESSION. 


105 


In  advance  of  the  procession  walked,  or  rather  jump- 
ed, two  grotesque  and  diabolical  figures.  Of  the  sex, 
colour,  or  condition  of  these  actors  in  the  crowd  we 
could  form  no  opinion.  Their  faces,  save  the  eyes  and 
teeth,  were  completely  hidden  by  hideous  masks  of 
black  crape,  while  their  bodies  were  covered  with  a 
dingy,  dirty  black  dress,  fitting  closely  to  the  skin. 
They  did  not  walk,  but  crooked  their  knees,  crouched 
their  bodies  as  close  to  the  ground  as  possible,  and  then 
hopped  about  after  the  manner  of  orang-outangs  or 
kangaroos.  Whenever  a door  was  passed,  at  which 
stood  some  girl  fairer  and  better  clad  than  usual,  one  of 
those  grotesque  figures  would  hop  hurriedly  after  her, 
grin  hideously  with  his  white  teeth,  and  so  frighten  the 
pursued  that  she  would  instantly  seek  shelter  within  the 
house.  These  little  innocent  eccentricities  on  the  part 
of  the  gentleman  in  black,  who  performed  the  most 
wonderful  feats  of  agility  while  hopping  from  point  to 
point,  were  much  relished  by  the  crowd  of  boys  and 
idlers  in  attendance  upon  the  procession.  I was  unable 
to  make  out  the  characters  sustained  by  these  imps  of 
darkness;  but  whether  devils  or  Judases,  they  certain- 
ly well  sustained  their  parts,  in  action  and  appearance. 

Immediately  in  their  l'ear  followed  some  four  or  five 
swarthy,  dirty-faced,  half-grown  boys,  dressed  to  rep- 
resent angels,  although  they  were  like  almost  anything 
else.  Their  once  white  robes  were  soiled  and  stained 
until  they  had  become  a dirty  yellow  ; their  wings  were 
unhinged,  broken,  discoloured,  and  draggling ; then- 
thick,  uncombed  hair  was  filled  with  withered  flowers, 
or  encircled  with  faded  wreaths ; their  gait  was  awk- 
ward and  swaggering,  and,  take  them  altogether,  a sor- 
rier set  of  angels  were  probably  never  let  loose  upon 
earth.  Had  they  been  personating  angels  of  darkness, 


196 


ANXIOUS  SPECULATIONS. 


their  aspect  certainly  would  have  been  appropriate,  to 
say  nothing  of  their  acting.  It  was  shrewdly  suspect 
ed  that  one  or  two  of  these  good  spirits  had  been  par- 
taking rather  more  freely  of  aguardiente  than  became 
their  calling.  The  tail  of  the  procession  was  a rabble 
of  men,  women,  and  children,  the  latter  improving 
every  moment  in  letting  oft'  squibs  and  crackers  among 
the  throng. 

At  the  church,  whither  we  followed  the  crowd,  a 
short  service  appeared  to  end  the  ceremonies,  at  least 
for  that  day ; for  after  it  was  concluded,  the  good  and 
evil  spirits  broke  up  the  order  of  march,  and  mingled 
promiscuously  with  the  swarthy  populace.  So  far  as 
the  sending  up  of  rockets,  and  other  exhibitions  of  the 
like  nature,  went — for,  without  fireworks,  a Mexican 
celebration  is  incomplete — the  strange  mummeries  were 
kept  up  until  a late  hour.  Such  were  the  performances 
at  Tula  on  the  1st  of  February ; what  they  were  on 
the  2d  I know  not,  although  I had  purchased  an  invita- 
tion to  take  part  in  them. 

With  the  supposition  that  we  were  that  evening  to  be 
marched  into  the  great  city  of  the  Montezumas,  we  left 
Tula  at  an  early  hour  in  the  morning,  We  had  now 
been  some  three  months  and  a half  upon  the  road,  jour- 
neying through  twenty  degrees  of  latitude,  and  exposed 
to  hardships  and  privations  innumerable.  The  fate  of 
all,  whether  good  or  evil,  was  soon  to  be  decided. 
Upon  the  flimsy  pretext  that  one  or  two  of  their  com- 
panions had  escaped,  we  knew  that  Santa  Anna  had 
chained  Colonel  Cooke's  men,  and  what  was  worse,  had 
sent  them  to  work  in  the  streets  and  ditches — a punish- 
ment awarded  only  to  criminals.  Was  our  fate  to  be 
the  same  ? The  mind  of  each  man  was  racked  to  an- 
swer the  question — speculation  only  ended  in  doubt  and 
uncertainty. 


QUIEN  SABE? 


197 


We  had  supposed  that  we  were  to  be  marched  di- 
rectly into  the  city,  which,  by  the  middle  of  the  day, 
was  only  concealed  by  a mountain,  when  at  a fork  of 
the  road  a halt  was  called.  At  this  point  Mr.  Navarro 
Was  separated  from  us,  for  what  reason  no  one  could 
divine.  Under  a strong  guard  he  was  conducted  di- 
rectly towards  the  city,  while  we  were  ordered  to  pur- 
sue the  left-hand  fork  of  the  road,  which  led  we  knew 
not  whither.  We  asked  the  dragoons,  riding  on  either 
side  of  us,  as  to  our  destination.  Our  only  answer  was 
the  eternal  “ quien  sabe  ?”  The  Mexicans  of  the  lower 
classes,  if  unable  to  answer  a question,  instead  of  giving 
a decided  negative,  invariably  use  this  exclamation  of 
“ quien  sabe  ?”  the  literal  meaning  of  which  is  “ who 
knows  V’  thus  answering  one  question  by  asking  an- 
other. The  expression  is,  however,  equivalent  to  “/ 
don’t  know ” in  English. 

Our  route  now  took  us  through  a thickly-settled  and 
tolerably  well-cultivated  country,  although  squalid  pov- 
erty was  to  be  seen  on  every  side.  The  half-dressed, 
swarthy  Indian  women,  with  their  black  but  mild  and 
pensive  eyes,  came  running  from  the  adobe  houses, 
many  of  them  in  tears  at  our  sad  and  wretched  appear- 
ance ; for  by  this  time  some  twenty  of  our  party  were 
down  with  the  small-pox  and  other  diseases.  Murmur- 
ing the  universal  exclamation,  pobrecitos,  they  would 
divide  tomales,*  tortillas,  fruit — in  short,  their  little  all 
— among  men  whom  they  must  have  supposed  to  be  on 
the  road  to  execution. 

About  noon,  and  after  passing  a poor  village  with  a 
large  and  once  magnificent  church,  the  celebrated  lake 
of  San  Cristobal  appeared  in  sight.  A few  hundred 

* The  tomale  is  made  of  meal,  with  a slight  mixture  of  red  pepper  and 
meat.  It  is  then  wrapped  in  the  husks  of  com  and  boiled. 

R 2 


198 


VISIT  FROM  A FRIEND. 


yards  farther  we  were  halted  in  front  of  the  old  Palace 
of  San  Cristobal,  once  a celebrated  summer  residence 
of  the  Spanish  viceroys,  but  long  since  deserted,  and 
now  fast  crumbling  to  decay.  We  were  ordered  to 
enter  its  wide  doorway ; but  why  we  were  brought  to 
a place  so  desolate  and  gloomy  no  one  could  imagine. 
The  captain  of  our  guard  shrugged  his  shoulders  when 
interrogated  as  to  the  cause  of  this  singular  movement, 
and  after  saying  that  he  had  been  ordered  to  lock  us 
up  in  San  Cristobal,  briefly  remarked  that  he  had  obey- 
ed his  orders. 

The  key  had  hardly  turned  in  the  lock  when  three 
or  four  horsemen,  evidently  foreigners  from  their  style 
of  dress  and  riding,  were  seen  galloping  towards  us 
across  the  plain.  They  pulled  up  in  front  of  our  miser- 
able quarters,  and  on  alighting  I for  the  first  time  rec- 
ognised Mr.  Lumsden  as  of  the  party.  After  a short 
conference  with  the  captain  of  our  guard,  and  leaving 
their  pistols  and  knives  with  the  sentinels  at  the  door, 
for  no  traveller  ever  rides  to  the  outskirts  of  the  city 
of  Mexico  without  arms,  the  party  were  allowed  to 
enter. 

That  I was  overjoyed  at  meeting  with  Mr.  L.  may 
easily  be  imagined.  His  companions  were  American 
gentlemen,  residing  in  the  city  of  Mexico.  Learning 
early  in  the  morning  that  the  prisoners  were  approach- 
ing, they  had  ordered  horses  and  immediately  come 
out  to  meet  us.  Finding  that  we  had  taken  a different 
road,  on  reaching  the  fork  where  Mr.  Navarro  had  been 
separated  from  us,  they  followed  Upon  our  track  until 
they  at  length  found  us  securely  locked  up  within  the 
crumbling  walls  of  the  old  Palace  of  San  Cristobal. 

As  regarded  my  own  prospects  of  release,  my  friends 
gave  me  every  encouragement.  They  appeared  san- 


PALACE  OF  SAN  CRISTOBAL. 


199 


guine  that  but  a few  days  would  elapse  before  I should 
regain  that  liberty  of  which  I had  been  so  unjustly  de- 
prived for  nearly  five  months ; and  as  the  afternoon 
was  now  far  advanced,  and  the  distance  some  twelve 
miles  to  the  city,  they  took  their  leave,  after  promising 
to  visit  us  again  the  next  day. 

The  Palace  of  San  Cristobal  is  pleasantly  situated 
upon  a plain,  and  immediately  in  front  are  the  lake  of  the 
same  name,  and  one  of  the  canals  to  be  met  with  in  the 
valley  of  Mexico.  In  the  immediate  vicinity  there  are 
no  buildings,  save  the  miserable  mud-hovels  of  a few 
poor  wretches,  whose  means  of  procuring  an  honest 
livelihood  must  be  precarious  indeed.  Directly  in  front 
of  the  palace,  the  range  of  mountains  which  divides  the 
valley  of  Mexico  from  that  of  Puebla  was  seen  in  the 
distance,  while  to  the  right  one  of  the  high  and  snow- 
capped volcanoes,  which  give  to  the  scenery  of  Mexico 
its  grandeur  and  sublimity,  was  seen  rising  far  among 
the  clouds.  In  clear  weather  the  mountain-top  is  plain- 
ly visible,  as  is  also  the  volcano  upon  its  side ; but  on 
the  day  of  our  arrival  the  atmosphere  betokened  rain, 
and  its  summit  was  covered  with  a fleecy  veil  of 
clouds. 

The  building  in  which  we  were  confined  may  have 
been  a very  respectable  palace  in  its  day,  but  when  we 
were  there  it  would  hardly  afford  shelter  for  the  bats 
our  presence  frightened  from  their  retreats.  It  is  two 
stories  high,  and  built  in  the  fashion  of  nearly  all  the 
large  houses  of  Mexico,  in  a quadrangular  form,  having 
a patio  or  court-yard  in  the  centre.  The  entrance  was 
through  a large  gateway.  The  ground  floor  of  the 
front  part  of  the  building  contained  four  rooms,  while 
in  the  second  story  was  a large  dining  hall,  flanked  by 
a bedroom  at  one  end  and  a small  kitchen  at  the  other. 


200 


RELEASE  OF  VAN  NESS  AND  FALCONER. 


The  only  apartment  in  the  house  having  any  pretensions 
to  being  habitable  was  the  bedroom  I have  just  men- 
tioned, and  this  the  captain  of  our  guard  appropriated 
to  his  own  use  and  that  of  his  brother  officers.  The 
dining  hall  was  given  to  the  Texan  officers  and  mer- 
chants, while  the  poor  soldiers  were  compelled  to  take 
up  their  quarters  in  the  yard  below,  and  in  such  of  the 
dilapidated  rooms  of  the  first  story  as  were  in  any  way 
tenantable.  The  ravaging  tooth  of  time  had  eaten 
away  almost  the  whole  interior  of  the  building,  leaving 
the  outer  walls  alone  untouched,  and  into  these  cold, 
dreary,  and  miserable  quarters  were  some  hundred  and 
fifty  of  us  thrust — into  a hole  which  would  not  afford 
even  tolerable  shelter  for  half  that  number  of  brute 
beasts.  Another  thing  which  served  to  render  our 
quarters  far  more  disagreeable  was  the  fact  that  by  this 
time  eighteen  or  twenty  of  our  number  had  the  small- 
pox, and  many  of  them  were  delirious.  In  this  situation 
we  passed  our  first  night  at  San  Cristobal. 

At  an  early  hour  the  next  morning  a Mexican  offi- 
cer arrived  from  the  city,  bringing  orders  for  the  im- 
mediate release  of  Van  Ness  and  Falconer.  The  for- 
mer was  liberated  entirely  through  the  influence  of  the 
Mexican  Secretary  of  War  and  Marine,  General  Tor- 
nel,  who  was  well  acquainted  with  the  family  of  Van 
Ness  at  Washington,  and  who  had  received  from  them 
many  favours  ; but  with  Falconer  the  case  was  differ- 
ent. He  had  been  demanded,  as  I understood  at  the 
time,  by  the  British  minister,  and  this  demand  had  been 
followed  by  his  immediate  release.  Afterward,  I heard 
a different  version  of  the  story. 

Our  liberated  friends  had  scarcely  departed  for  the 
city,  in  a coach  provided  for  the  purpose,  when  we 
were  visited  by  Brantz  Mayer,  Esq.,  United  States  sec- 


A CHARGE  AGAINST  THE  U.  S.  GOVERNMENT.  201 


retary  of  legation,  and  by  the  American  consul  at  Mex- 
ico, Mr.  Black.  Mr.  M.  inquired  of  me  the  circum- 
stances of  my  arrest  and  all  the  information  I could  give 
relevant  to  my  case,  as  also  to  that  of  several  others 
who  claimed  American  protection.  I told  him  that  I 
had  given  Mr.  Ellis,  in  several  letters  that  I had  writ- 
ten while  upon  the  road,  full  particulars  in  relation  to 
myself;  that  my  case  was  much  clearer  than  that  of 
Mr.  Falconer,  inasmuch  as  I had  joined  the  expedition 
with  the  previously-expressed  intention  of  travelling 
through  Mexico,  had  provided  myself  with  a passport 
before  leaving  New-Orleans,  and  had  entirely  separated 
myself  from  the  expedition  previous  to  the  time  of  my 
capture.  In  addition,  I told  Mr.  Mayer,  that  while  I 
rejoiced  with  Mr.  Falconer  upon  his  happy  deliverance 
from  the  worst  of  bondage,  I certainly  thought  it  very 
singular,  and  by  no  means  flattering  to  that  country 
from  which  I claimed  protection,  that  while  a British 
subject,  who  was  in  a greater  degree  implicated  than 
myself,  was  immediately  liberated,  I was  held  a prison- 
er even  for  a moment.*  He  expressed  every  sympa- 

* In  comparison  with  the  English  government,  and  with  not  a little  reluc- 
tance do  Isay  it,  that  of  the  United  States  is  notoriously  slow  in  interfering 
for  its  citizens  when  their  personal  liberty  has  been  infringed  upon — a state- 
ment the  truth  of  which  will  be  at  tested  by  every  American  who  has  travelled 
in  Mexico  or  other  foreign  countries.  The  British  government  looks  upon 
the  liberty  of  the  subject  as  paramount  to  all  considerations — that  of  the  Uni- 
ted States  will  promptly  enough  interfere  when  a barret  of  flour  is  unjustly 
taken  from  one  of  its  citizens,  but  let  him  be  deprived  of  his  liberty,  and  the 
matter  requires,  to  use  the  words  of  the  old  diplomatist  in  one  of  Power’s 
plays,  “ a mighty  deal  of  nice  consideration.”  So  well  is  this  policy  of  the 
United  States  government  understood  in  Mexico,  that  while  an  American  is 
allowed  to  remain  for  months  in  a loathsome  prison,  a single  word  from  the 
British  minister  will  give  immediate  liberty  to  a subject  of  that  government, 
incarcerated  for  the  same  offence  and  in  every  way  equally  culpable.  The 
Americans,  all  over  Mexico,  openly  speak  of  the  insults  they  receive  and  the 
little  personal  security  they  enjoy,  and  many  of  them  even  told  me  that  were 
they  to  enter  the  country  again  they  would  carry  British  protections  in  their 


202 


BENEFITS  OF  A ROYAL  BIRTH. 


thy,  said  that  Mr.  Ellis  would  exert  himself  to  the  ut- 
most to  effect  my  release,  and  after  offering  me  any  as- 
sistance I might  require,  left  the  prison. 

In  the  afternoon  I was  again  visited  by  Mr.  Lums- 
den,  who  was  now  accompanied  by  Lieutenant  Blunt 
of  the  United  States  navy,  Mr.  McRae,  who  had  but 
recently  arrived  with  despatches  from  the  United  States, 
and  several  other  American  gentlemen,  residents  of  the 
place.  They  brought  us  out  a liberal  supply  of  cigars, 
fruit,  and  other  refreshments,  and  what  to  me  was  of 
far  more  value  and  interest,  a number  of  American 
newspapers.  In  the  Picayune  I read,  for  the  first  time, 
a letter  from  Chihuahua,  which  directly  implicated  me 
as  connected  with  the  expedition,  it  being  incorrectly 

pockets.  An  American  citizen,  who  boasts  of  his  birthright  and  of  the  great 
liberty  he  enjoys  at  home,  hears  these  mortifying  admissions  while  abroad 
with  wounded  pride ; but  hear  them  he  must,  and,  in  addition,  will  feel  and 
know  that  they  are  founded  in  truth.  Since  the  arrival  in  Mexico  of  our 
present  minister,  General  Thompson,  and  the  powerful  and  decided  papers 
of  Mr.  Webster  have  appeared,  the  tone  of  the  Mexican  government  may 
have  changed  somewhat ; I allude  above  to  the  state  of  feeling  existing  while 
I was  in  the  country. 

After  my  return  to  the  United  States  I saw  and  read  a letter  from  Judge 
Ellis,  to  our  then  Secretary  of  State,  Mr.  Webster,  in  which  the  suddenness  of 
Mr.  Falconer’s  release  is  accounted  for.  By  this  document  it  would  seem 
that  Mr.  Pakenham,  the  British  minister,  immediately  on  the  arrival  of  Mr. 
F.  at  San  Cristobal,  called  upon  Santa  Anna  and  presented  him  with  a letter 
from  Queen  Victoria  announcing  the  birth  of  the  Prince  of  Wales.  His  ex- 
cellency, the  Provisional  President,  as  an  act  of  courtesy  usual  on  such  oc- 
casions, released  Mr.  Falconer  the  moment  the  British  minister  mentioned 
that  he  was  a prisoner.  Now,  this  was  all  right  enough  ; but  it  is  certainly 
unfortunate  for  us  poor  Republicans  that  no  such  door  is  open  for  our  re- 
lease when  confined  under  similar  circumstances.  A corresponding  increase 
10  the  family  of  one  of  our  presidential  ladies  might  take  place,  although  such 
an  event  can  hardly  be  looked  for,  and  not  a whit  should  we  be  gainers  by  it, 
while  any  addition  to  that  of  the  august  sovereign  of  Great  Britain  is  a “ walk- 
ing paper”  to  her  incarcerated  subjects.  We  boast  much  of  our  freedom, 
and  the  perfect  equality  we  enjoy,  both  at  home  and  abroad,  as  compared 
with  the  people  of  other  nations  : surely,  some  provision  should  be  made  for 
us  in  contingencies  like  the  above. 


SANTA  ANNA’S  LEG. 


203 


stated  that  I was  one  of  the  avant  courriers  sent  for- 
ward by  Colonel  Cooke  on  approaching  the  settlements 
of  New  Mexico.  Knowing  that  the  Mexican  govern- 
ment would  eagerly  seize  upon  any  pretext  to  annoy 
one  for  whom,  from  the  general  tone  of  the  articles  in 
his  paper  in  relation  to  Texan  affairs,  it  could  entertain 
no  friendly  feelings,  I at  once  declared  my  belief  that 
the  publication  of  the  letter  would  cause  me  months  of 
imprisonment.  My  friends  thought  differently,  and  be- 
fore-leaving endeavoured  to  convince  me  that  I should 
regain  my  liberty  in  a day  or  two  ; but  I had  a presen- 
timent that  no  such  good  luck  would  befall  me,  and 
with  this  feeling  passed  my  second  night  in  San  Cristo- 
bal. 

During  the  first  five  days  in  the  old  palace  we  re- 
ceived regular  visits  from  the  Americans  and  other 
foreigners  of  the  city.  For  the  more  destitute  they 
brought  blankets  and  different  articles  of  clothing,  and 
by  their  many  acts  of  kindness  endeavoured  to  make 
all  as  comfortable  as  they  could  be  under  the  circum- 
stances. It  was  during  one  of  these  visits  that  our 
friends  gave  us  the  particulars  of  a celebration  in  the 
city  in  honour  of  Santa  Anna’s  leg — the  one  he  lost 
when  San  Juan  de  Ulua  and  Yera  Cruz  were  taken  by 
the  French.  On  the  present  occasion,  a general  holy- 
day  was  given,  and  the  limb  was  borne  about  in  pro- 
cession with  great  pomp  and  ceremony.  Santa  Anna 
makes  much  capital  out  of  this  affair — enough  to  con- 
sole him,  probably,  for  the  loss  of  the  limb.  On  sev- 
eral occasions  it  has  been  carried  about  in  procession, 
and  I have  little  doubt  that  the  leg,  in  pickle,  is  of  infi- 
nitely more  service  to  him  than  when  attached  to  his 
own  proper  person. 

The  day  after  our  arrival  at  San  Cristobal,  a sum  of 


204 


A COURT  OF  FUN. 


money  was  sent  out,  by  the  Mexican  government,  of 
sufficient  amount  to  distribute  twenty-five  cents  to  each 
man : the  same  sum  was  also  furnished  the  next  day. 
With  this  the  men  could  procure  for  themselves  food 
enough,  in  the  shape  of  frijoles,  tortillas,  chile  guisado, 
and  other  articles  which  the  Mexican  women  brought 
to  our  quarters,  to  appease  the  keen  demands  of  appe- 
tite— it  was  all  they  were  allowed.  On  the  third  day 
the  supplies  from  the  city  were  stopped.  The  fourth 
day  came,  and  still  no  money ; the  fifth,  likewise,  and 
with  it  no  succour.  By  this  time  the  sufferings  of  those 
who  had  no  money  were  severe  in  the  extreme,  and 
the  tricks  they  resorted  to  in  order  to  obtain  food  were 
ingenious  to  a degree,  and  occasioned  not  a little  merri 
ment. 

Among  the  prisoners  were  a number  of  lawyers, 
doctors,  and  other  professional  men — persons  who,  ei- 
ther from  a love  of  wild  adventure  or  because  they 
could  obtain  no  professional  employment  in  Texas,  had 
originally  been  induced  to  join  the  expedition.  Then 
there  were  several  comedians  among  them,  mad  wags, 
who,  finding  that  the  drama  yielded  them  but  slender 
support  in  the  new  Republic,  had  shouldered  the  rifle 
and  taken  to  the  prairies  for  a better.  Out  of  such 
materials  it  may  readily  be  conceived  that  the  richest 
fun  and  frolic  could  be  extracted,  and  the  story  of  one 
of  their  maddest  pranks  I will  relate. 

The  wags  knew  that  among  the  officers  and  mer- 
chants there  were  some  who  had  money,  and  to  levy 
a tax  upon  such  pockets  as  were  best  filled  these  fel- 
lows commenced  a game  which,  in  the  end,  not  only 
proved  every  way  successful,  but  afforded  infinite 
amusement  to  all.  They  in  the  first  place  fitted  up  an 
old,  dilapidated  apartment  as  a court-room.  With  two 


JIMMY  TWEED. 


205 


barrels  and  as  many  boards  they  made  a kind  of  plat- 
form, upon  which,  as  a bench,  a claret-box  was  placed, 
and  upon  this  the  jokers  seated  the  largest  prisoner  in 
the  whole  collection  as  judge — a half  lawyer,  who,  in 
addition  to  having  all  the  gravity  of  the  Grand  Turk 
himself,  wore  whiskers,  mustaches,  and  hair  in  quan- 
tity sufficient  to  supply  wigs  for  an  entire  bench  of 
English  justices.  A sheriff,  crier,  and  clerk — men  who 
well  understood  their  business — were  then  appointed ; 
an  eccentric  comedian,  who  could  speak  for  hours  upon 
any  subject,  and  possessed  the  keenest  wit  and  the 
strongest  imitative  powers  imaginable,  was  chosen 
prosecuting  attorney.  As  principal  witness  in  any 
cases  that  might  be  brought  they  fell  upon  a little  Irish- 
man named  Jimmy  Tweed.  Jimmy  was  born  and 
bred  a soldier.  He  first  drew  breath  in  the  barracks 
of  a recruiting  regiment  in  Ireland,  and  in  process  of 
time,  after  having  picked  up  a fair  education  among 
the  officers,  joined  the  regiment  as  a soldier.  The 
term  of  his  enlistment  he  served  principally  at  Gibral- 
tar, where  he  obtained  a name,  to  use  his  own  words, 
“ for  being  up  to  all  manner  of  diviltry,”  and  where  he 
also  learned  a smattering  of  Spanish.  On  being  dis- 
charged, he  visited  the  United  States,  joined  the  army, 
served  two  or  three  campaigns  in  Florida,  and  was 
finally  discharged  regularly  at  Baton  Rouge,  in  Louisi- 
ana. To  finish  his  education,  as  he  said,  he  then  went 
to  Texas,  and  after  various  campaigns,  was  finally  ta- 
ken prisoner  in  New  Mexico.  He  had  all.  the  wit  of 
his  countrymen,  and  a fund  of  dry  humour  which  was 
inexhaustible. 

Thus  organized,  the  court  proceeded  to  the  trial  of 
such  cases  as  they  thought  might  be  turned  to  their 
own  profit.  More  decorum,  more  order,  or  more  grav- 
Vol.  II. — S 


206 


LUDICROUS  TRIAL. 


ity  of  deportment  was  never  seen  in  any  court  of  jus- 
tice. The  crier  in  some  way  procured  a small  bell, 
and  in  regular  form  called  the  court  together  and  is- 
sued his  proclamations — the  sheriff,  with  all  the  dignity 
imaginable,  commanded  silence,  compelled  all  to  take 
off  their  hats,  and  was  very  efficient  in  preserving  the 
best  order. 

The  first  action  upon  their  singular  law-docket  was 
brought  against  a young  and  very  worthy  man,  a mer- 
chant, who  was  charged  with  being  a “ great  fool  gen- 
erally”— I am  not  altogether  positive  but  that  the  first 
word  in  the  indictment  may  have  been  a much  more 
forcible  adjective  than  the  simple  term  “ great.”  The 
judge  remarked  that  the  charge  was  one  extremely 
grave  in  its  character,  and  admitted  that  he  could  not, 
at  the  time,  think  of  any  precedent  that  might  guide 
him  in  his  decision,  which,  he  wound  up  by  saying, 
should  be  a just  and  a righteous  one.  The  prosecuting 
attorney,  after  a few  pertinent  remarks,  brought  up 
several  witnesses  to  sustain  the  charge.  Their  evi- 
dence, which  of  course  was  made  up  and  suited  for  the 
meridian  of  this  particular  court  alone,  all  went  to  sup- 
port the  prosecution.  The  case,  as  made  out,  was  clear 
enough — not  a doubt  arose  as  to  the  truth  of  the  charge 
set  forth  in  the  indictment — but  to  make  all  sure,  Jim- 
my Tweed  was  brought  up  to  the  stand.  After  kiss- 
ing a brickbat  with  due  gravity,  there  being  no  Bible 
in  the  court,  Jimmy  proceeded,  with  his  testimony.  He 
instanced  several  particulars  in  which  the  accused 
party  had  evinced  very  little  foresight — mentioned  sev- 
eral of  his  actions  which  manifested  great  lack  of  judg- 
ment and  knowledge  of  the  world,  and  finally  wound 
up  by  saying  that  the  fact  alone  of  his  being  found  in 


A WISE  JUDGMENT. 


207 


company  with  the  Santa  Fe  Expedition  was  ample  evi- 
dence against  him. 

At  this  point  of  the  trial  symptoms  of  uproarious 
laughter  were  manifested  in  court,  all  which  were  in- 
stantly quelled  by  the  sheriff,  and  the  judge  then  pro- 
ceeded to  give  his  decision.  Drawing  himself  up, 
throwing  back  his  head,  and  clearing  his  throat  with  a 
preparatory  “ hem,”  and  then  raising  one  leg  over  the 
other  with  all  becoming  dignity,  he  remarked  that  all 
the  evidence  bore  strongly  against  the  accused,  but  that 
the  testimony  of  the  last  witness,  in  particular,  view  it 
in  what  light  he  would,  clearly  sustained  the  charge  that 
the  arraigned  party  was  slightly  afflicted  with  a weak- 
ness known  as  “ the  simples”— troubled  with  not  being 
so  particularly  wise  as  be  might  and  should  have  been. 
He  admitted  that  the  charge  which  had  been  thus 
proved  was  a misfortune  rather  than  a crime ; but  in- 
asmuch as  the  times  wrere  hard,  and  victuals  scarce,  he 
should  impose  a fine  of  two  dollars  upon  the  accused. 
The  latter,  who  enjoyed  the  joke  as  much  as  any  one, 
interposed  no  motion  in  arrest  of  judgment,  but  paid  the 
fine  at  once,  and  thus  ended  the  first  trial. 

The  next  action  brought,  although  not  quite  so  grave 
in  its  nature,  produced  an  infinite  degree  of  merriment. 
One  of  our  officers,  Captain  H.,  was  charged  with  bad 
singing,  or  rather,  as  the  indictment  read,  “ with  at- 
tempting to  sing  and  making  out  badly  at  best.”  A 
number  of  witnesses  testified,  that  at  different  times  they 
had  been  most  excessively  annoyed,  even  to  the  losing 
of  sleep,  by  the  attempts  of  the  accused  at  divers  songs. 
They  all  admitted,  during  a process  of  cross-question- 
ing, that  they  were  not  exactly  good  judges  of  music  ; 
still,  they  considered  themselves  blessed  with  ears  which 
taught  them  to  distinguish  between  the  warbling  of  a 


208 


A RARE  VOCALIST. 


canary  and  that  of  a crow — thought  they  could  discover 
a soothing  influence  in  the  notes  of  a nightingale  which 
they  missed  in  the  braying  of  a donkey.  But  as  the 
testimony  of  Tweed  went  directly  to  prove  the  charge, 
and  was  a perfect  gem  in  its  way,  I shall  give  it  as 
nearly  as  possible  in  his  own  words. 

“Yer  oner,”  said  Jimmy,  with  a ludicrous  mock- 
gravity  and  quizzical  leer  of  his  dexter  eye,  “ yer  oner, 
as  I was  walkin’  acrass  the  corral  last  evenin’,  I heerd 
sthrange,  mystarius,  and  most  unnath’ral  sounds  issu- 
in’ from  the  officers’  quarthers  up  stairs — sounds  resirm 
blin’,  yer  oner,  those  made  by  a sawmill,  whin  in  the 
full  tide  of  manufacthuring  boards.  Well,  me  curiosity 
bein’  excited,  I bethought  meself  I’d  be  after  investi- 
gatin’ the  thing ; so  whin  I was  abajo,  yer  oner,  which 
is  the  best  Spanish  I have  at  prisent  about  me  for  the 
foot  of  the  stairs,  I heerd  the  sthrange  sounds  louder  and 
louder  than  iver.  Up  the  steps  I wint,  and  whin  I was 
arriba,  which  manes,  yer  oner,  the  head  of  the  stairs, 
divil  a bit  did  it  stop  at  all,  at  all.  What  in  the  name 
of  all  the  saints,  thinks  I to  meself,  has  put  a sawmill  in 
operation  here  away  ? for  I still  thought  it  was  one,  yer 
oner;  so  I opened  the  door  cautiously,  poked  me  head 
in  slyly,  and  what  should  me  own  eyes  see  and  me  own 
ears  hear  but  Captain  H.  himself,  essayin’  a bit  of  a 
ditty,  yer  oner.” 

“ Doing  what  ?”  questioned  the  judge. 

“ Essayin’  a ditty,  yer  oner — attempting  a stave  of  a 
song — and — ” 

“ Enough,”  interrupted  the  high  functionary  upon  the 
claret  box.  “ If  you  mistook  the  singing  of  Captain  H. 
for  those  sounds  ordinarily  produced  by  a sawmill,  the 
case  is  clear  enough  that  he  has  undertaken  a task  which 
neither  nature  nor  cultivation  fits  him  to  carry  success- 


A SUPPLY  OF  MONEY. 


209 

fully  through,  and  I shall  fine  him  one  dollar  and  fifty 
cents  for  the  attempt.” 

In  this  way  a number  of  cases,  some  for  bad  singing 
and  others  for  speaking  bad  Spanish,  were  disposed  of, 
and  with  the  proceeds  the  merry  wags  procured  a suf- 
ficiency of  provisions  and  chinguirite,  the  latter  a spe- 
cies of  common  rum  manufactured  from  the  sugar-cane, 
to  hold  a wild  revel  that  night  among  the  ruins  of  San 
Cristobal. 


CHAPTER  XI. 

Supply  of  Money  received. — Our  Sick  examined. — Visited  by  a large  Party 
of  Americans  from  the  City. — Hopes  of  Liberation  still  offered. — Reflec 
tions  as  to  the  Nature  of  my  Case. — Departure  from  San  Cristobal. — Start 
for  the  City  of  Mexico  upon  Asses. — The  easy  Gait  of  the  genus  Donkey. 
— Arrival  at  the  Shrine  of  “ Our  Lady  of  Guadalupe.” — Flimsy  Imposture 
which  caused  its  Erection. — Anecdote  from  Latrobe. — Nuestra  Seiiora  de 
los  Remedios. — Mexican  Beggars. — Tiresome  Travel  across  the  Plains. — 
The  Garita. — Mexico,  as  seen  in  the  Distance. — Arrival  within  the  City. — ■ 
Forlorn  appearance  of  the  Texans. — Commiseration  of  the  Women. — 
Anecdote  of  Mejor  Bennett. — Arrival  at  the  Hospital  of  San  Lazaro. — Hid- 
eous appearance  of  the  Inmates. — A dreary  Night.— Visited  by  the  Hospi- 
tal Physician. — His  Prescriptions. — Description  of  San  Lazaro  and  the  un- 
fortunate Lazarinos. — Speculations  as  regards  the  Leprosy. — Happiness 
among  the  Lepers. — New  Sports  and  Dances. — We  are  visited  by  Mr. 
Mayer  and  other  Americans. — Our  Food  at  San  Lazaro. — Kindness  of 
the  Mexicans  in  their  Hospitals. — Smuggled  Food. — Visits  of  the  Physi- 
cian.—Removed  to  other  Quarters. — Worse  and  Worse.- — Find  our  Room 
overrun  with  Chinches. — Our  Friends  gain  Access  by  Bribery.— Depar- 
ture of  Mr.  Lumsden  and  Friends  for  the  United  States. — Thoughts  of  an 
Escape. 

On  the  day  following  that  on  which  the  singular  and 
laughable  trials  took  place,  and  the  wild  feast  that  fol- 
lowed them,  a sum  of  money  was  received  from  Mexico 
for  our  men.  On  the  same  day,  two  or  three  physi- 
S 2 


210 


THE  AUTHOR’S  PROSPECTS. 


cians  were  sent  out  by  Santa  Anna  to  examine  our  sick. 
A report  now  obtained  currency  to  the  effect  that  such 
of  the  prisoners  as  were  able  to  walk  would  be  escorted 
immediately  to  Puebla,  or  the  castle  of  Perote,  in  the 
direction  of  Vera  Cruz,  while  those  who  were  unwell 
would  be  taken  to  some  hospital  in  the  city.  The  phy- 
sicians pronounced  eighteen  unfit  to  travel,  and  as  I was 
labouring  under  cold  and  fever  at  the  time,  I was  placed 
on  the  list.  Of  the  others,  almost  all  were  afflicted  with 
the  small-pox,  in  some  stage  of  the  disease. 

The  day  before  our  removal  from  our  miserable  quar- 
ters at  San  Cristobal,  we  were  visited  by  a large  party 
of  Americans,  among  them  Mr.  Henry  E.  Lawrence, 
of  New-Orleans,  who  had  but  recently  arrived  from  the 
United  States  with  despatches  for  Mr.  Ellis.  They  all 
gave  me  every  hope  that  I Was  speedily  to  be  liberated, 
and  seemed  confident  that  I should  return  to  my  home 
in  company  with  them  ; but  I was  led  to  believe  differ- 
ently. The  publication  of  the  Chihuahua  letter,  I felt  as- 
sured, would  be  used  by  the  Mexican  government  as  a 
pretext  to  detain  me,  arid  at  the  time  I could  not  think  the 
measures  taken  by  Mr.  Ellis  to  effect  my  release  as  effi- 
cient as  they  should  have  been.-,  I knew  that  a tempo- 
rizing policy  would  never  procure  my  liberation,  and 
that  so  long  as  the  subject  of  my  imprisonment  was  left 
open  to  argument,  I might  be  kept  until  my  head  was  as 
white  as  the  summit  of  Popocatepetl.  I looked  upon 
my  own  case  in  this  light : I conceived  that  I had  not 
in  any  way  forfeited  my  claim  to  American  protection, 
and  that  therefore  an  immediate  demand  for  my  release 
should  be  made.  On  the  other  hand,  if  I had  lost  my 
rights  as  a citizen  of  the  United  States,  and  should  our 
minister  view  my  case  in  that  light,  I neither  wished 
nor  expected  that  he  would  say  or  do  anything  in  my  be- 


VIEW  OF  HIS  CASE. 


211 


half.  I was  a citizen  either  of  the  United  States  or  of 
Texas — if  of  the  former,  my  imprisonment  was  unjust ; 
if  a Texan,  I only  hoped  that  nothing  might  be  said  in 
reference  to  my  case,  and  in  that  event  I should  imme- 
diately set  about  making  my  escape.  But  while  all  this 
was  passing  through  my  mind,  my  friends  told  me  that 
Mr.  Ellis  was  using  every  exertion  to  procure  my  re- 
lease, and  that  I was  wronging  him  by  harbouring  a 
different  opinion. 

Will  the  reader,  for  one  moment,  place  himself  in  my 
situation  ? He  will  then,  if  an  American  citizen,  be  bet- 
ter able  to  judge  of  my  feelings.  I had  left  New-Or- 
leans,  as  I have  before  stated,  with  the  openly-avowed 
intention  of  making  a tour  through  both  Texas  and 
Mexico.  I had  armed  myself,  previous  to  starting, 
with  a passport  and  other  documents  plainly  defining 
my  position,  and  on  reaching  Texas  had  still  farther  for- 
tified myself  with  letters  from  influential  gentlemen  in 
that  country,  in  which  it  was  expressly  stated  that  I had 
no  connexion  whatever,  civil  or  military,  with  the  San- 
ta Fe  Expedition — was  subject  to  no  control.  On  ap- 
proaching the  confines  of  New  Mexico  I had  left  the 
command,  determined  to  take  no  part  in  whatever  might 
occur.  The  first  settlement  I entered  peacefully  and 
openly — I attempted  no  disguise,  for  in  the  honesty  of 
my  intentions  I could  see  no  necessity  for  dissimulation 
or  concealment.  I was  arrested,  searched,  robbed  not 
only  of  property,  but  all  my  papers,  and  then,  without  a 
hearing  or  without  a trial,  forced  to  undergo  the  fatigues 
and  dangers  of  the  long  march  to  Mexico.  Arrived  in 
the  vicinity  of  that  city,  I made  known  my  case  to  the 
United  States  minister ; I informed  him  of  the  circum- 
stances of  my  having  left  the  Texan  expedition  upon 
the  prairies,  of  my  having  been  robbed  of  my  papers 


212 


A HARD  CASE. 


and  liberty  on  first  reaching  the  settlements  of  New 
Mexico,  with  other  important  facts,  and  referred  him  to 
Messrs.  Van  Ness  and  Falconer,  then  at  liberty,  for  the 
proofs.  I also  mentioned  Colonel  Cooke  and  Doctor 
Brenham,  who,  although  they  had  lost  their  liberty,  still 
retained  their  honour,  as  gentlemen  who  would  cor- 
roborate my  statements.  I knew  that  in  thought  I had 
committed  no  offence  whatever  against  the  Mexicans, 
and  that  even  in  deed  my  actions  could  not,  by  the  wild- 
est and  broadest  construction,  be  perverted  or  magni- 
fied into  crimes  at  all  adequate  to  the  punishment  I had 
already  received. 

Such  were  my  thoughts  whenever  my  own  case  pass- 
ed in  review  before  my  mind ; and  when  to  these  are 
added  the  facts  that  an  English  companion,  whose  po- 
sition had  certainly  been  more  inimical  than  mine,  had 
at  once  been  liberated  by  the  Mexican  authorities,  and 
that  the  imbecility  and  inefficiency  of  my  government 
were  a theme  for  the  constant  taunts  and  jeers  of  the 
Texans  by  whom  I was  surrounded,  the  American  citi- 
zen, proud  of  his  birthright,  will  be  brought  to  see  and 
feel  the  full  bitterness  of  the  situation  in  which  I was 
placed.  The  fault  lies  not  with  the  people  of  the  United 
States,  but  with  the  rulers ,*  for  the  fact  is  notorious 
that  a fear  of  losing  political  influence  has  induced  those 
in  power  to  sacrifice  the  independence  and  jeopard 
the  honour  of  the  country  on  more  occasions  than  one. 
Full  well  does  the  Mexican  government  understand 
this  weak  point  in  our  foreign  policy,  else  we  never 
should  hear  of  our  countrymen  being  arrested,  robbed 
of  all  their  evidence,  denied  a hearing,  thrust  into  loath- 
some prisons  among  malefactors,  compelled  to  labour 
in  chains,  and  all  to  gratify  the  caprice  or  feed  the  re- 
venge of  some  such  tyrant  as  Santa  Anna. 


REMOVAL  TO  MEXICO. 


213 


On  the  morning  of  the  9th  of  February,  and  in  a 
frame  of  temper  by  no  means  amiable,  I was  ordered 
to  prepare  for  the  march  to  the  city  of  Mexico.  But  a 
short  time  previous,  General  McLeod,  and  such  of  the 
prisoners  as  were  able  to  make  the  journey,  were  march- 
ed off  in  the  direction  of  Puebla,  on  foot  and  under  a 
strong  guard.  They  had  scarcely  gone  when  fifteen 
poor  but  hardy  donkeys  were  driven  up  in  front  of 
San  Cristobal  for  us  to  ride — three  of  our  party  being 
so  weak  that  litters  were  provided  to  transport  them. 
Mounted  upon  the  donkeys,  and  with  a gang  of  beg- 
garly leperos  to  drive  them,  we  were  put  en  route  for  the 
great  city  of  Mexico,  distant  some  twelve  or  fourteen 
miles.  In  mere  jest;  and  to  cause  uneasiness  among 
the  more  inexperienced,  we  had  frequently,  while  upon 
the  road,  spoken  of  the  probability  of  our  being  com- 
pelled to  enter  that  city  mounted  upon  asses,  as  a spe- 
cies of  punishment : little  did  I think,  when  I was  giv- 
ing all  credit  and  colouring  to  these  stories,  that  I was 
actually  thus  to  make  my  own  entrance — ride  into  the 
city  of  the  Montezumas  upon  an  unsaddled  and  unbri- 
dled donkey ! 

Than  a jackass  there  is  perhaps  no  animal  with  a 
gait  more  easy ; but  to  see  a full-grown  man  mounted 
upon  the  back  of  one  of  them,  without  bridle  or  saddle, 
and  with  no  other  means  of  guiding  and  directing  his 
course  than  by  pulling  his  ears,  is  ludicrous  in  the  ex- 
treme, to  say  the  least  of  it.  The  patient  animals,  how- 
ever, jog  quietly  along,  their  noses  close  to  the  ground, 
ready  to  pick  up  any  bit  of  orange-peel  or  chance  blade 
of  grass,  and  in  the  situation  in  which  I then  was  I 
would  hardly  have  exchanged  the  sluggish  little  animal 
on  which  I was  perched  for  the  proudest  charger  in 
Christendom. 


214 


A CATHOLIC  LEGEND. 


After  we  had  passed  through  a succession  of  poor 
villages,  and  across  an  arid  plain,  the  lofty  and  impo- 
sing dome  of  the  Cathedral  of  Our  Lady  of  Guadalupe 
appeared  in  sight.  We  soon  entered  the  little  village 
which  surrounds  the  cathedral,  our  commander  ordering 
a short  halt  to  rest  and  obtain  water  and  refreshments. 

I did  not  enter  this  noted  church,  but  its  history  was 
told  us,  and  is  interesting  as  showing  by  what  nonsen- 
sical superstitions  and  barefaced  impostures  the  poor 
Indians  were  originally  gulled  by  a crafty  priesthood. 
There  are  different  versions  of  the  story,  but  they  agree 
in  the  main  circumstances.  Some  three  hundred  years 
ago  not  a solitary  hut  was  standing  in  a village  which 
now  contains  its  thousands  of  inhabitants,  and  probably 
one  of  the  richest  and  most  magnificent  religious  estab- 
lishments in  the  world.  Near  the  site  of  the  church, 
shortly  after  the  conquest  by  Cortez,  a poor  and  simple 
shepherd  was  tending  his  flock,  not  a dwelling  in  sight 
save  those  in  the  distant  city.  Suddenly  the  Holy  Vir- 
gin appeared  to  this  wandering  shepherd,  clad  in  ce- 
lestial raiment,  and  with  a face  of  pure  and  heavenly 
beauty.  She  pointed  to  a small  hill  near,  and  then  told 
him  to  go  forthwith  to  the  city  and  tell  the  bishop  it 
was  her  will  that  a chapel  should  at  once  be  built  upon 
the  spot,  to  be  dedicated  exclusively  to  her.  The  af- 
frighted man  went  to  the  city  that  night,  but  fearing 
the  bishop  would  not  believe  his  story,  he  did  not  com- 
municate the  holy  errand  upon  which  he  had  been  sent. 
The  next  day  the  Virgin  again  appeared  to  him.  With 
much  trembling  he  told  her  that  he  feared  to  open  her 
message  to  the  bishop,  lest  that  dignitary  might  ridicule 
him  as  a fool  or  an  impostor.  She  again  commanded 
him  to  communicate  her  desire  to  the  bishop,  and  on 
his  second  visit  to  the  city  the  shepherd  made  known 


A MIRACULOUS  BOUaUET. 


215 


to  him  all  the  circumstances.  The  bishop  laughed  at 
the  man  as  an  impostor,  and  desired  him  to  bring  some 
token  that  he  had  communicated  face  to  face  with  the 
Holy  Mother.  He  returned  to  his  flock  on  the  third 
day,  and  was  again  visited  by  the  Virgin.  She  asked 
him  if  he  had  well  performed  his  holy  mission,  to  which 
he  answered  by  telling  her  the  result  of  his  conference 
with  the  bishop.  “ Go,”  said  she,  “ to  yon  barren  rock,” 
at  the  same  time  pointing  to  the  desolate  hill,  “ and  bring 
me  a bouquet  of  roses  which  you  will  find  there.”  The 
poor  shepherd,  albeit  knowing  full  well  there  were  no 
roses  or  flowers  of  any  kind  upon  the  spot,  obeyed  her 
mandate.  What  was  his  surprise  when  he  found  the 
roses  as  she  had  described  them  ? He  gathered  a beau- 
tiful nosegay,  and  on  returning  to  his  singular  visiter 
she  told  him  to  proceed  with  it  at  once  to  the  bishop, 
and  place  it  in  his  hands  as  an  evidence  of  the  truth  of 
what  he  had  seen  and  heard.  He  now  cheerfully  obey- 
ed, and  presented  the  flowers  as  commanded.  On  re- 
ceiving them,  the  bishop  discovered,  imprinted  upon  the 
roses,  an  exquisite  miniature  of  the  Holy  Virgin — a 
miniature  of  such  surpassing  loveliness  and  finish  as  at 
once  convinced  him  that  other  than  the  hand  of  man 
had  painted  it.  Its  divine  origin,  as  the  legend  goes, 
now  seemed  to  him  unquestionable. 

With  unwonted  pomp  and  ceremony  he  had  the  mi- 
raculous bouquet  borne  about  in  procession,  the  re- 
quest of  the  Holy  Virgin  was  at  once  obeyed,  and  a 
temple  dedicated  entirely  to  her  service  was  immediate- 
ly erected  on  the  spot  she  had  pointed  out.  The  fame 
of  the  miracle  spread  far  and  near,  and  rich  presents 
came  flowing  in  from  all  quarters.  The  reigning  mon- 
arch of  Spain  endowed  with  costly  furniture  and  reli- 
gious trappings  the  sacred  cathedral  of  Nuestra  Senora 


216 


INJUDICIOUS  BEGGARS. 


de  Guadalupe,  she  was  ordained  the  patroness  of  Mex- 
ico, and  to  the  present  time  her  temple  is  noted  as 
among  the  richest  in  the  world.  Such  the  flimsy  im- 
posture, and  such  the  result.  The  lower  classes  of 
Mexico  still  believe  that  the  Virgin  really  appeared  to 
the  shepherd,  and  flock  in  thousands  to  her  shrine  at 
Guadalupe.*  As  I have  before  stated,  I did  not  visit 
the  interior  of  the  temple,  but  those  who  have  describe 
it  as  gorgeous  and  magnificent  beyond  comparison. 
The  exterior  I can  answer  for  as  being  of  grand  dimen- 
sions and  admirable  architecture — partaking,  so  far  as  I 
was  able  to  judge,  of  the  Moorish  and  Gothic  styles.  A 
crowd  of  poor  wretches — leperos,  mendicants,  and  fe- 
males in  tattered  attire — were  lounging  about  the  spot, 
and  several  of  them  even  went  so  far  as  to  ask  alms  of  us, 
a party  of  sick,  ragged,  and  miserable  objects — calling 
upon  every  saint  in  the  Mexican  calendar  to  shower 
down  prayers  and  blessings  upon  us  in  a torrent  of 
abundance  if  we  would  but  give  them  a solitary  claco.\ 

* The  entertaining  writer  Latrobe,  in  his  work  entitled  “ The  Rambler  in 
Mexico,”  says  that  there  is  only  one  rival  to  the  dominion  of  Our  Lady  of 
Guadalupe  in  the  affections  of  the  common  people  of  the  valley  of  Mexico, 
and  that  is  Nuestra  Sehora  de  los  Remedios,  whose  shrine  is  to  be  seen  in  a 
village  near  the  base  of  the  mountains  west  of  the  city.  The  leperos  and 
poblanitas,  the  latter  the  more  common  girls  of  the  city,  pin  their  faith,  in 
case  of  any  impending  danger,  upon  the  wonder-working  image  of  her  of  Los 
Remedios ; and  in  cases  of  great  emergency,  as  during  the  prevalence  of  the 
cholera  in  1833,  she  is  brought  with  great  pomp  into  the  metropolis.  On 
one  occasion  it  was  settled  that  she  should  pass  the  night  in  town,  as  the 
weather  was  unfriendly,  and  a suitable  lodging  was  provided : but  when 
morning  dawned,  “ Our  Lady”  had  vanished  ! The  fact  was,  that  nothing 
could  keep  her  away  from  her  own  flock  at  Los  Remedios,  where,  accordingly, 
she  was  found  at  dawn  in  her  usual  place,  covered  with  mud,  however,  from 
having  walked  a number  of  leagues  in  a dark  and  rainy  night ! And  this  mir- 
acle is  believed  ! Alas  ! poor  human  nature  ! 

t A piece  of  copper  money,  worth  one  cent  and  a half.  An  immense 
batch  of  clacos  were  coined  in  1842,  but  whether  their  intrinsic  value  was 
one  cent  and  a ha'lf  I have  my  doubts.  Santa  Anna,  with  some  of  the  other 
government  officers,  probably  made  a “ pretty  penny”  by  the  copper  war 
which  raged  in  Mexico  during  that  year. 


ENTRY  INTO  THE  CITY  OF  MEXICO. 


217 


The  road  from  Guadalupe  is  a wide,  straight  thor- 
oughfare, planted  on  either  side  with  trees  of  rich  fo- 
liage, and  leads  directly  into  the  heart  of  the  city  of 
Mexico.  As  the  hospital  to  which  they  were  escorting 
us  was  situated  at  the  extreme  end  of  the  city,  near  the 
point  where  the  Vera  Cruz  road  enters,  the  captain  of 
our  guard  struck  off  across  the  arid  and  desolate  plains 
which  lie  between  Guadalupe  and  Mexico,  with  the  in- 
tention of  finding  a much  nearer  route.  We  were  not 
in  the  least  annoyed  at  this  change,  as  not  one  of  us  felt 
anxious  to  show  off  our  donkey-estrianism,  if  I may  be 
allowed  to  coin  a word,  in  the  heart  of  one  of  the  proud- 
est cities  of  the  world.  All,  or  nearly  all,  too,  were 
extremely  unwell,  and  we  were  anxious  to  reach  our 
quarters,  roll  ourselves  up  in  our  blankets,  and  obtain 
rest  and  sleep  after  the  fatigues  of  the  march. 

Had  we  proceeded  directly  by  the  road,  instead  of 
endeavouring  to  find  a shorter  route,  we  should  have 
reached  our  destination  much  sooner ; for  we  found  the 
plains  cut  up  by  gullies  and  partially-dry  canals,  with 
here  and  there  a small  lake  or  pond  by  which  our 
course  was  obstructed.  After  turning  and  buffeting 
about  three  or  four  hours  to  gain  as  many  miles,  we 
were  at  length  fortunate  enough  to  reach  the  Vera 
Cruz  road,  and  following  this,  we  soon  passed  the  gari- 
ta,  or  gate,  and  entered  the  great  city  of  Mexico. 
While  upon  the  sandy  plains,  the  immense  number  of 
domes,  steeples,  and  towers  of  the  proud  metropolis  of 
the  New  World,  as  its  inhabitants  are  wont  to  term  it, 
were  plainly  visible,  presenting  a view  than  which 
nothing  can  be  more  grand  and  imposing. 

A more  forlorn,  wretched,  ragged,  and  pitiable  set  of 
Christians  surely  never  before  entered  the  place.  Three 
or  four  were  in  the  very  worst  stage  of  the  small-pox 
Vol.  II.— T 


218 


A SCRirTURE-READ  VETERAN. 


and  borne  along  upon  litters,  while  the  rest  were  seated 
upon  jackasses,  and  nearly  all  had  the  earlier  symp- 
toms of  that  disease  plainly  developed  in  their  counte- 
nances. The  clothing,  too,  of  the  majority,  would  have 
disgraced  a party  of  beggars — a description  of  the  dif- 
ferent costumes  were  impossible.  No  wonder,  then, 
that  our  appearance  excited  deep  sensation  among  the 
women  as  we  entered  the  city,  for  they  crowded  about 
us  in  groups,  wondering  at  the  sight  of  a party  of  stran- 
gers in  plight  so  melancholy,  guarded  like  criminals  upon 
the  road. 

Although  suffering  severely  from  headache  at  the 
time,  having  but  partially  recovered  from  an  attack  of 
fever  at  San  Cristobal,  I still  could  not  help  laughing  at 
a little  circumstance  which  occurred  before  we  had  ad- 
vanced twenty  yards  into  the  city.  Among  our  party 
was  old  Major  Bennett,  our  quartermaster  before  the 
capture  of  the  expedition.  The  major  was  some  fifty- 
five  or  sixty  years  of  age,  hale  and  hearty  naturally,  al- 
though suffering  much  at  the  time  from  the  severe  head- 
ache and  pains  incident  to  the  small-pox  in  its  earlier 
stages.  He  was  a native  of  Massachusetts,  born  and 
educated  among  the  descendants  of  the  Puritans,  knew 
the  Bible  almost  by  heart,  and  was  always  ready  with 
a passage  from  that  book  with  which  to  illustrate  or 
point  his  discourse.  The  major  was  a young  man  at 
the  breaking  out  of  the  last  war  between  the  United 
States  and  England,  immediately  enlisted  in  the  service 
of  his  country,  and  was  a lieutenant  at  the  celebrated 
and  hard-fought  battles  of  Bridgewater  and  Lundy’s 
Lane.  In  the  earlier  conflicts  of  Texas  he  was  also  en- 
gaged, and  was  wounded  in  several  places  at  the  battle 
of  Victoria.  He  was  now  sick  and  a prisoner,  but 
nothing  could  depress  his  spirits  or  prevent  him  from 
quoting  Scripture,  in  or  out  of  season. 


ODD  QUOTATION. 


219 


The  anecdote  I am  about  to  relate  showed  the  char- 
acter of  the  man,  and  would  have  provoked  a smile 
from  Niobe  herself.  The  major  was  drumming,  with 
his  heels,  the  flanks  of  a lazy  donkey  upon  which  he  was 
mounted,  when  three  or  four  women  came  out  of  a 
house  immediately  before  him.  Struck  by  his  wretch- 
ed appearance,  the  kind-hearted  creatures  clasped  their 
hands  with  pity,  uttered  their  common  expressions  of 
compassion,  while  their  lustrous  eyes  became  instantly 
suffused  with  tears.  The  major  saw  the  effect  his  wo- 
begone  aspect  had  created,  and  instantly  resolved  upon 
a speech.  Seizing  his  donkey  by  the  ear  and  pulling 
his  head  round — the  common  way  of  stopping  the  ani- 
mal— he  looked  steadfastly  in  the  faces  of  the  poor 
women  who  had  marked  his  appearance.  He  then 
raised  his  other  hand,  as  if  to  impress  more  forcibly 
what  he  was  about  to  utter,  and  ejaculated,  “ Weep  not, 
daughters  of  Mexico,  your  rulers  are  coming,  seated  upon 
asses.”  This  slightly-altered  quotation  from  the  Scrip- 
tures he  uttered  with  a mock-gravity  truly  ludicrous, 
and  then,  pulling  his  donkey’s  head  back  to  its  original 
position,  by  dint  of  much  kicking  forced  it  into  a min- 
cing trot,  and  soon  overtook  our  party.  I had  paused 
to  hear  the  major’s  speech,  well  knowing,  from  his  char- 
acter and  the  unwonted  preparation  he  had  made,  that 
it  would  be  something  uncommon  ; but  little  did  I think 
he  would  force  from  me  a laugh  so  hearty  as  that  which 
followed  the  winding-up  of  his  address.  What  the 
women  thought  of  us  I know  not ; they  of  course  did 
not  understand  a word  of  what  he  said.*' 

* Some  strange  fatality  appears  to  have  attended  my  more  intimate  friends 
of  the  ill-fated  Santa  Fe  Expedition.  The  ink  with  which  I recorded  tha 
deaths  of  Fitzgerald,  Brenham,  Whittaker,  Seavy,  Holliday,  and  Old  Paint 
Caldwell  had  hardly  dried,  before  I was  compelled  to  add  Major  Bennett  to 
the  list.  He  died  during  the  fall  of  1843,  in  Texas. 


220 


HOSPITAL  OF  SAN  LAZARO. 


After  crossing  a canal  immediately  in  the  outskirts  of 
the  city,  and  proceeding  some  three  hundred  yards,  we 
were  drawn  up  and  halted  in  front  of  the  old  church  and 
hospital  of  San  Lazaro,  or  Saint  Lazarus.  Enclosed 
within  a wall  were  several  buildings,  devoted  to  the 
uses  of  the  sick  and  also  of  the  priests  and  hospital  at- 
tendants, while  in  the  centre  was  a small  garden,  in 
which  were  a fountain  and  a profusion  of  roses  and  oth- 
er flowers.  To  the  right  of  the  main  entrance  stands 
the  old  church,  which,  with  the  department  of  the  male 
lazarinos,  or  lepers,  forms  nearly  one  side  of  the  estab- 
lishment, and  has  no  wall  around  it.  In  fact,  the  walls 
are  only  placed  in  the  rear  of  the  buildings. 

Up  to  the  very  time  of  our  arrival  we  were  ignorant 
of  our  destination,  and  as  we  now  gazed  upon  the  hide- 
ous countenances  that  peered  at  us  from  the  front  build- 
ing, we  were  still  at  a loss  as  to  what  manner  of  place 
had  been  selected  for  our  new  prison ; that  it  was  dis- 
gusting and  horrible  was  evident  enough. 

A short  conference  with  some  of  the  attendants  at 
the  front  door  being  over,  our  guard  escorted  us  into  the 
interior.  Although  the  shades  of  evening  had  by  this 
time  set  in,  we  could  still  see  that  the  walls  in  the  inte- 
rior were  hung  with  badly-painted  pictures,  the  subjects 
all  religious.  Arriving  at  a species  of  anteroom,  look- 
ing in  upon  a long  and  dimly-lighted  hall  which  was 
filled  with  cots,  we  were  ordered  to  stop,  and  there  take 
up  our  lodgings  for  the  night  upon  the  floor.  Within 
the  hall,  though  it  was  now  nearly  dark,  we  could  plain- 
ly see  wretched  figures  hobbling  about,  many  of  them 
upon  crutches,  and  several  of  the  unfortunate  creatures 
who  came  and  looked  at  us  were  entirely  bereft  of 
noses,  and  their  faces  otherwise  horribly  disfigured  with 
sores.  Our  guard  informed  us  that  the  inmates  were 


MEDICINE  PERFORCE. 


221 


suffering  under  that  dreadful  disease,  the  leprosy,  an 
affliction  almost  unknown  in  the  United  States  ; but  al- 
though we  had  much  speculation  on  the  subject,  it  was 
not  until  the  next  day  that  we  were  made  fully  acquaint- 
ed with  “ the  secrets  of  our  prison-house.” 

After  an  indifferent  night’s  sleep,  for  the  passage-way 
in  which  we  had  been  compelled  to  take  up  our  quar- 
ters was  cold,  dreary,  and  uncomfortable,  we  rose  the 
next  morning  to  a full  sense  of  our  wretched  situation. 
I was  half  dozing,  when  a slight  shake  of  my  shoulder 
aroused  me  to  full  consciousness.  The  regular  physi- 
cian of  the  hospital  was  standing  by  me,  accompanied 
by  the  major-domo  and  several  attendants.  The  former 
asked  me  my  disease,  felt  my  pulse,  looked  at  my  tongue, 
and  then  prescribed  a dose  of  glauber  salts  and  a light 
diet.  In  truth,  I was  in  good  health  enough,  only  re- 
quiring quiet  and  nutritious  food  for  a day  or  two  to 
recover  my  strength  ; but  the  Mexican  physician  prob- 
ably thought  that  salts  could  do  me  no  harm,  and  ac- 
cordingly prescribed  them.  I tried  to  beg  off  when  the 
attendant  brought  me  the  medicine,  but  was  compelled 
to  swallow  it  to  the  very  dregs.  I have  no  peculiar 
partiality  for  salts  at  any  time,  and  now  to  take  them 
when  there  was  not  the  least  necessity  appeared  to  give 
the  dose  an  additionally  bitter  flavour.  To  all  the  other 
prisoners  a particular  medicine  and  diet  were  prescri- 
bed ; those  who  were  more  severely  afflicted  were  pro- 
vided with  cots  in  the  long  hall,  while  the  rest  of  us 
were  compelled  to  remain  in  the  dreary  passage  where 
we  had  spent  the  first  night.  This  not  one  of  us  re- 
gretted when  we  had  an  opportunity  of  seeing  the  com- 
panions with  whom  we  should  have  been  compelled  to 
associate  in  the  large  hall  of  San  Lazaro. 

The  room  in  which  the  men  afflicted  with  the  leprosy 
T 2 


222 


HORRORS  OF  THE  LEPROSY. 


are  confined  is  nearly  three  hundred  feet  in  length,  by 
about  thirty-five  in  width.  The  windows  are  large  and 
numerous,  admitting  a sufficiency  of  air  during  the  heat 
of  the  day,  and  are  all  grated.  At  first  I could  see  no 
reason  why  the  windows  of  a hospital  were  grated  ; but 
afterward  learned  that  when  a person  is  known  to  be  a 
lazarino,  or  leper,  he  is  at  once  taken  to  San  Lazaro, 
and  there  confined  as  a kind  of  prisoner  until  liberated 
by  death  — for  I believe  that  none  ever  recover  from 
the  horrible  disease.  At  the  time  when  we  were  con- 
fined in  the  hospital  the  male  department  contained 
some  fifty  or  sixty  inmates,  while  in  the  female  part  of 
the  establishment,  which  was  in  another  building,  there 
was  a still  greater  number. 

I feel  not  a little  reluctant  to  attempt  a picture  of  the 
unfortunate  wretches  who  inhabit  San  Lazaro.  The 
disease  with  which  they  are  afflicted  is  unknown  in  An- 
glo-Saxon countries,  or  if  there  are  any  cases  they  are 
very  rare.  Other  than  those  afflicted  with  the  leprosy 
there  were  no  occupants  of  the  hospital  until  our  arri- 
val, and  the  reason  assigned  by  the  Mexican  govern- 
ment for  confining  us  there  was  said  to  be  that  we  had 
a contagious  disease  among  us.  The  appearance  of  the 
unfortunate  lepers  is  loathsome  and  hideous  to  a degree 
that  beggars  description.  It  makes  its  first  appearance 
by  scaly  eruptions  on  different  parts  of  the  face  and 
body  of  the  victim,  and  these  eruptions  are  never  per- 
fectly healed.  The  limbs  of  many,  and  more  especially 
the  hands,  at  first  appear  to  be  drawn  and  twisted  out 
of  all  shape.  Gradually  the  nose  and  parts  of  the  feet 
are  carried  away,  while  the  features  become  distorted 
and  hideous.  The  voice  assumes,  at  times,  a husky  and 
unnatural  tone,  and  again  the  doomed  patient  is  unable 
to  articulate  except  in  a shrill,  piping  treble.  With 


GAYETY  OF  THE  LEPERS. 


223 


many,  when  near  the  last  stages,  all  powers  of  speech 
are  lost,  and  vainly  do  they  endeavour  to  make  known 
their  wants  by  sounds  which  belong  not  to  this  earth  of 
ours.  Death  steps  in  at  last  to  relieve  the  poor  crea- 
tures of  their  sufferings,  and  to  them  at  least  it  would 
seem  that  the  visit  of  the  grim  tyrant  must  be  welcome. 

Whether  the  leprosy  of  Mexico  is  contagious  I am 
unable  to  say.  With  many  I have  little  doubt  that  it  is 
to  a degree  constitutional — being,  in  fact,  hereditary, 
and  perhaps  never  entirely  eradicated  from  the  blood. 
The  climate  may  have  some  effect  in  engendering  and 
keeping  alive  the  disease,  but  of  this,  too,  I am  uncer- 
tain. The  common  belief  among  the  lower  classes  is, 
that  it  is  communicated  by  contact ; and  indeed  I am 
inclined  to  think  that  the  only  risk  a person  runs  of  ta- 
king it  is  from  touching  the  person  of  one  afflicted  with 
it  in  its  worst  stages.  The  families  and  friends  of  the 
lazarinos  would  frequently  visit  them,  bringing  many 
little  luxuries  to  add  to  their  comfort.  They  would  sit 
and  converse  with  them,  too,  for  hours,  apparently  re- 
gardless of  danger ; but  for  myself  I took  particular 
care  not  to  come  in  too  close  contact  with  the  unfortu- 
nate lepers. 

Notwithstanding  their  lot  would  seem  to  be  most 
melancholy,  as  a body  they  appeared  well  to  enjoy 
themselves.  Afterward,  and  while  confined  among 
them  for  some  two  months,  I had  every  opportunity  to 
observe  them  closOly  ; and  One  who  has  had  no  such 
opportunity  can  hardly  imagine  how  much  happiness 
and  hilarity  prevail  among  beings  doomed  to  a linger- 
ing but  certain  death.  Many  of  them  were  continually 
playing  at  draughts  or  cards,  taking  the  most  intense 
interest  in  the  games.  On  many  occasions  I saw  par- 
ties of  four  engaged  at  cards  who  had  not  a single  nos© 


224 


A FRIGHTFUL  DANCE. 


or  entire  finger  among  them  ; and  any  little  success  of 
one  of  them  would  be  hailed  with  every  demonstration 
of  delight.  Their  dexterity,  too,  in  shuffling  and  deal- 
ing cards,  when  bereft  of  fingers,  was  astonishing. 
Many  of  them  were  musicians,  performing  on  both  the 
harp  and  mandolin,  and  after  nightfall  they  usually  had 
a dance  among  themselves.  Frequently  they  were 
visited  by  some  of  the  female  inmates  of  the  hospital, 
who  would  join  their  merry-makings.  To  describe  one 
of  their  dances  were  impossible.  A set  of  them  would 
take  the  floor,  composed  of  one  or  more  couples.  Some 
of  the  dancers  were  upon  crutches,  and  almost  all  were 
in  some  way  lame  or  disabled.  The  music  would  strike 
up,  and  then  would  follow  some  monotonous  Mexican 
dance,  accompanied  by  singing  from  voices  which  were 
excruciatingly  harsh  and  discordant.  The  weird  sis- 
ters around  the  magic  caldron  never  made  a more  gro- 
tesque or  frightful  appearance  than  did  these  lepers, 
and  had  Macbeth  encountered  the  latter  upon  the  heath 
he  would  have  run  outright,  without  even  exchanging 
a word  of  parley.  The  wretched  inmates  of  the  hos- 
pital enjoyed  themselves,  however,  at  these  dances,  and 
but  that  their  loud  laughter  was  grating  and  discordant 
it  would  have  sounded  joyous  enough.  The  true  feel- 
ings of  merriment  were  there,  but  no  midnight  revel  of 
witches  or  hobgoblins,  or  of  the  misshapen  dwarfs  ro- 
mancers have  created,  could  compare  with  the  horrible 
manifestations  of  mirth  that  fell  upon  our  ears,  or  could 
in  any  way  shadow  forth  the  strange  orgies  we  fre- 
quently beheld  within  the  gloomy  walls  of  San  Lazaro. 

We  were  visited,  the  first  day  of  our  imprisonment 
here,  by  Mr.  Mayer  and  a large  number  of  Americans, 
all  manifesting  not  a little  disgust  at  the  horrible  situa- 
tion in  which  they  found  us.  Among  the  Mexicans 


DIET  OF  THE  PRISONERS. 


225 


themselves  this  hospital  is  looked  upon  with  a feeling 
akin  to  terror — as  a receptacle  that  never  gives  up  its 
victims — for  those  who  once  cross  its  gloomy  threshold 
seldom  or  never  retrace  their  steps.  Whether  there 
are  other  patients  than  those  suffering  with  the  leprosy 
admitted  within  its  walls  I know  not — the  regular  hos- 
pital for  the  small-pox  is  situated  in  a different  part  of 
the  city,  and  why  they  did  not  take  us  to  it  was  a mat- 
ter of  some  surprise  with  all. 

As  regards  our  food,  we  had  no  reason  to  complain. 
In  their  hospitals  the  Mexicans  are  invariably  kind  and 
attentive  to  the  sick,  administering  to  their  wants  with 
unsparing  hands.  While  at  San  Lazaro,  four  loaves  of 
fine,  well-baked  wheaten  bread  were  given  to  each  of 
the  Texan  prisoners  every  morning — an  ample  supply 
for  the  day.  For  breakfast  a tin  cup  of  tea,  made  of 
some  herb  to  which  I am  a stranger,  was  brought  us. 
It  was  well  sweetened,  had  a small  quantity  of  milk 
boiled  with  it,  and  although  weak  and  rather  insipid,  1 
have  little  doubt  it  was  extremely  wholesome.  During 
the  day  a generous  supply  of  orangeade  was  given  us, 
cool  and  refreshing.  At  noon  our  dinner  was  brought 
to  us  in  three  tin  cups,  accurately  made  to  fit  one  with- 
in the  other.  The  upper  one  was  covered  and  served 
as  a cover  for  the  second,  as  did  the  second  for  the  one 
at  the  bottom.  The  lower  cup  was  generally  filled 
with  mutton  broth,  having  a piece  of  the  meat  left  with- 
in it,  and  also  a quantity  of  garbanzos,  or  large  Spanish 
peas.  In  the  second,  they  generally  sent  us  a small 
piece  of  baked  mutton,  and  in  the  upper  cup  we  found 
alternately  boiled  rice  and  fried  potatoes.  Each  cup 
was  numbered  with  the  figures  attached  to  some  cot  in 
the  hospital,  and  seeing  the  numbers  on  my  dinner  uten- 
sils staring  me  in  the  face  from  the  couch  of  a leper, 


226 


EFFICACY  OF  A BRIBE. 


my  appetite  for  the  contents  was  gone  at  once.  After- 
ward, when  we  complained  of  this  carelessness  of  the 
hospital  waiters,  the  cups  corresponding  with  the  num- 
bers of  our  cots  were  invariably  brought  to  us.  Nei- 
ther knife,  fork,  plate,  nor  spoon  was  sent  with  the  din- 
ner, but  as  we  had  been  accustomed  to  eat  without  such 
conveniences,  their  non-appearance  gave  us  but  little 
annoyance. 

Many  of  the  Texans  had  no  appetites.  Others,  again, 
swallowed  their  food  with  much  apparent  satisfaction  ; 
but  there  were  those  among  us  who  could  not  be  in- 
duced to  eat  the  plain  but  nutritious  food  offered  them 
on  the  first  day — the  appearance  of  everything  around 
was  too  revolting.  Some  of  us  succeeded,  however,  al- 
though against  positive  orders,  in  bribing  our  guard  to 
smuggle  in  a quantity  of  fried  eggs ; and  watching  an 
opportunity  when  no  one  of  the  hospital  attendants  was 
observing  us,  we  stealthily  made  a very  good  dinner. 
At  night  another  cup  of  tea  was  brought  us,  and  the  bill 
of  fare  of  our  first  day  in  San  Lazaro  was  not  altered 
during  the  stay  of  any  of  the  Texans,  except  that  a 
lighter  diet  was  ordered  for  those  who  were  deemed  un- 
able  to  eat  meat. 

On  the  second  morning  we  received  another  call 
from  the  physician.  He  examined  us  all  as  on  his  first 
visit,  prescribing  for  such  as  he  thought  needed  med- 
icine. When  my  turn  came  I told  the  doctor  that  I was 
much  better — a little  weak  only — and  that  I thought 
rest  alone  was  requisite  in  my  particular  case.  I was 
anxious  to  escape  taking  his  vile  medicines,  and  this 
time  I succeeded. 

In  this  way  the  first  four  days  were  spent,  the  doctor 
paying  us  regular  morning  visits,  and  our  American 
friends  calling  upon  us  during  the  day.  I was  led  to  be- 


HALTING  BETWEEN  TWO  OPINIONS. 


227 


lieve.in  the  mean  time,  that  our  minister  might  have  ob- 
tained my  release  upon  parole,  until  my  case  should  be 
finally  acted  upon  and  decided  by  the  Mexican  govern- 
ment ; but  in  this  I was  disappointed.  I told  my  friends 
that  I would  always  hold  myself  subject  to  the  disposal  of 
the  American  minister  or  the  government  of  Mexico, 
and  be  in  readiness,  when  called  upon,  let  my  sentence 
be  what  it  might.  Whether  Mr.  Ellis  ever  made  an 
attempt  to  procure  my  release  on  parole  or  not  I am 
unable  to  say ; he  may  have  thought  it  unadvisable  to 
make  any  such  solicitations  while  a correspondence 
was  pending  in  relation  to  myself.  Had  I been  im- 
prisoned in  any  other  place  than  San  Lazaro,  I should 
not  have  been  so  anxious  to  obtain  a liberty  only  nom- 
inal ; but  to  be  compelled  to  breathe  the  air  of  that  hor- 
rible place,,  and  to  have  no  associates  but  lepers  and 
small-pox  patients,  was  at  first  annoying  to  a degree 
that  rendered  the  confinement  almost  insupportable. 
Some  of  my  friends  advised  me  to  report  myself  well 
at  once,  in  which  case  I should  have  been  immediately 
taken  to  Santiago  and  confined  with  Colonel  Cooke’s 
party.  There  I was  confident  I should  be  put  in  chains 
and  compelled  to  work  in  the  streets — by  no  means  a 
pleasant  anticipation  to  a person  undergoing  an  impris- 
onment than  which  nothing  could  be  more  unjust. 
While  halting  between  these  opinions,  and  hardly  know- 
ing which  to  choose — San  Lazaro,  and  all  its  horrors 
of  association,  or  Santiago  and  the  chain-gang — such 
of  us  as  could  not  be  provided  with  cots,  were  ordered 
to  take  up  our  beds — a blanket  each — and  prepare  for 
instant  departure. 

There  were  eleven  of  us  in  all  who  were  now  order- 
ed to  leave  the  hospital,  seven  of  the  original  eighteen 
being  unable  to  move.  Under  a strong  guard  we  were 


228 


A NEW  PRISON-HOUSE. 


escorted  some  three  or  four  squares  directly  towards 
the  heart  of  the  city,  in  utter  ignorance  of  our  destina- 
tion. Arrived  in  front  of  a gate  having  a mud  house 
on  either  side,  and  a small,  gloomy  church  in  the  rear, 
we  were  halted.  An  old  Mexican  in  a ragged  blanket 
soon  appeared  at  the  gate,  and  ushered  us  into  a small 
room,  upon  the  floor  of  which,  stowed  almost  as  close 
as  they  could  be,  were  a coarse  mattress  and  two  clean 
blankets  for  each  of  us.  Although  the  place  seemed 
anything  1 at  comfortable,  and  in  'fact  was  in  a condi- 
tion hardly  fit  to  shelter  a brute,  we  still  thought  it  a 
palace  in  comparison  with  San  Lazaro — we  could  now 
breathe  freely.  Little  did  we  then  imagine  the  serious 
annoyances  to  which  we  were  to  be  subject  in  our  new 
quarters. 

At  dark,  our  rations  of  tea  and  bread  were  sent  us 
from  San  Lazaro.  The  tea  was  brought  in  the  reg- 
ular hospital  cups ; but  as  the  hideous  inmates  of  that 
horrible  place  were  no  longer  in  our  presence,  we  drank 
the  beverage  with  far  less  reluctance.  A regular  guard 
of  soldiers  was  now  stationed  over  us,  one  of  them 
marching  up  and  down  in  front  of  our  door.  The  old 
Mexican  with  the  ragged  blanket  offered  to  do  any  little 
errand,  and  after  sending  him  for  candles  we  retired  to 
our  mattresses,  firmly  impressed  with  the  belief  that  we 
were  to  sleep  comfortably  enough.  The  luxury  of  even 
a mattress  we  had  been  strangers  to  for  nine  months, 
a single  blanket  and  the  hard  ground  or  floor  having 
been  the  bed  of  each  during  all  that  time  ; but  now  that 
we  had  been  provided  with  an  apology  for  a phce  of 
rest — now  that  a coarse  husk  mattress  was  b(  tween 
us  and  the  floor — we  considered  ourselves  fortunate, 
and  stretched  our  limbs  upon  the  humble  beds,  confi- 
dent of  sound  and  refreshing  sleep. 


NOCTURNAL  INVADERS. 


229 


How  bitterly  were  we  disappointed  ! Scarcely  had 
we  touched  the  mattresses  before  we  were  visited  by 
myriads  of  chinches  ! From  every  crevice  and  cranny 
of  the  walls  they  poured  in  thousands — the  cracks  of 
the  floor  appeared  to  send  forth  their  legions  to  the  on- 
slaught. I thought  of  our  quarters  at  San  Miguel ; but 
there  our  tormentors  came  only  by  hundreds,  while 
here  we  were  literally  eaten  alive  by  thousands.  The 
room  we  were  in  had  been  unoccupied,  probably,  for 
months,  and  our  assailants  were  as  bloodthirsty  as  hy- 
enas. The  witty  little  Irishman,  Jimmy  Tweed,  who 
was  of  the  party,  declared  that  he  would  willingly 
change  his  situation  for  a den  of  half-starved,  royal 
Bengal  tigers,  while  old  Major  Bennett  alluded  to  the 
locusts  and  other  plagues  of  Egypt  as  trifling  in  com- 
parison with  what  we  were  compelled  to  endure.  To 
obtain  a moment  of  sleep  was  utterly  impossible,  and 
after  a night  spent  in  tossing  and  rolling  about  we  were 
rejoiced  when  daylight  came,  for  it  drove  our  annoying 
visiters  to  their  hiding-places.  We  made  a complaint 
the  next  day,  and  asked  to  be  removed  to  any  place — 
back  even  to  San  Lazaro  and  all  its  horrors — but  our 
request  was  unheeded.  After  this,  and  while  confined 
in  our  present  quarters,  we  slept  much  during  the  day, 
and  our  nights  we  passed  in  reading  and  conversation. 

The  colonel  of  the  regiment  from  which  our  guard 
was  detailed  gave  orders  to  the  different  sergeants  that 
no  one  was  to  be  allowed  to  visit  or  hold  any  conver- 
sation with  us ; but  this  did  not  prevent  our  friends 
from  gaining  access.  A dollar,  slily  slipped  into  the 
hand  of  any  of  the  guard,  would  gain  an  admittance 
readily.  Books  and  writing  paper,  besides  many  little 
luxuries,  were  brought  by  my  friends ; the  old  Mexi- 
can who  had  charge  of  the  premises  was  always  ready 
Vol.  II.— U 


230 


DEPARTURE  OF  MR.  LUItfSDEN. 


to  bring  us  any  article  of  food  we  might  wish,  and  but 
for  the  vile  chinches  at  night  we  really  should  have 
passed  our  time  agreeably  enough.  The  sergeant  of 
one  of  our  guards,  a light  mulatto,  was  invariably  at- 
tentive. He  was  born  in  New-Orleans,  but  at  an  early 
age  emigrated  to  Mexico,  where  he  had  joined  the 
army.  Having  picked  up  an  education,  just  enough  to 
read  and  write,  he  had  been  promoted,  and  ever  when 
he  was  on  guard  we  were  well  treated.  He  was  par- 
ticularly partial  to  me  j learning  that  I was  a resident 
of  his  native  city,  he  asked  me  innumerable  questions 
of  the  place  and  its  older  inhabitants,  and  invariably 
called  me  his  paisano,  or  countryman. 

On  the  18th  of  February  Mr.  Lumsden,  with  a party 
of  United  States  naval  officers,  among  whom  were 
Lieutenants  Blunt  and  Johnson,  left  Mexico  in  the  stage 
for  Vera  Cruz,  on  their  way  home.  They  had  by  this 
time  nearly  given  up  all  hope  of  my  being  liberated 
through  the  intervention  of  Mr.  Ellis,  and  Mr.  L.,  in 
particular,  was  anxious  that  I should  at  once  attempt  an 
escape,  either  by  bribing  the  guard  or  slipping  past 
them  in  the  night.  The  undertaking  would  have  been 
fraught  with  little  danger  ; but  I was  advised  by  friends, 
so  long  as  my  associate  in  business  was  in  the  country, 
to  make  no  attempt  of  the  kind.  His  movements  were 
said  to  be  closely  watched  by  the  authorities ; and  had 
I escaped  while  he  was  in  the  city,  the  circumstance 
would,  in  all  probability,  have  involved  him  in  difficulty, 
and  very  likely  caused  his  arrest  as  in  some  way  acces- 
sory. Under  these  circumstances  I determined  to  make 
no  attempt  at  an  escape,  at  least  until  my  friends  were 
safely  out  of  the  country. 


TAKEN  ILL  WITH  SMALL-POX. 


231 


CHAPTER  XII. 

Taken  ill  with  the  Small-pox.— Washington’s  Birthday. — A Patriotic  Amer- 
ican.— An  excellent  Dinner, — More  of  the  Small-pox. — Ordered  to  move 
our  Quarters. — Once  more  among  the  Lepers  of  San  LaZaro. — Eight  of 
our  Companions  marched  to  Santiago. — Philosophy  in  Chains.-r-The  Irons 
nothing  after  one  gets  used  to  them. — Fresh  Air  and  Exercise. — Determi- 
nation to  forego  them. — System  of  Anointing  in  San  Lazaro. — Anecdote  of 
Lieutenant  Burgess. — Visit  from  Mr.  Lawrence. — His  Departure  for  the 
United  States.: — Death  of  an  unfortunate  Leper.— A midnight  Funeral  in 
San  Lazaro. — Its  imposing  yet  gloomy  Character. — Mass  in  the  Church 
of  San  Lazaro. — Decorations  of  the  Establishment. — Disgusting  Figure  of 
St.  Lazarus.— A Procession  and  a Present— Don  Antonio. — The  Fruits  of 
Mexico. — A File,  of  American  Newspapers. — Present  from  Mr.  Ellis. — 
Visited  by  Mr.  Falconer.’ — Beauties  of  the  “ Vicar  of  Wakefield.” — Death 
ofianother  Leper. — Five  of  our  Companions  marched  to  Santiago. — Prep- 
arations fora  Celebration. — Thellth  of  March  in  San  Lazaro. — The  Hospi- 
tal visited  by  Throngs. — Compelled  to  receive  Alms.— Dinner  provided  for 
us  by  a Party  of  Ladies. — Take  an  Account  of  Stock. — Strange  Present 
from  a Mexican  Lady. — “Charles  O’Malley”  in  San  Lazaro. — Another 
Celebration  among  the  Lepers. — Fondness  of  the  Mexicans  for  Flowers 
and  Ornaments.  — A dolorous  Chant. — The  Celebration  closes  with  a 
Dance. — Wild  Revels  of  the  Lepers. 

On  the  19th  of  February,  the  day  after  Mr.  Lums- 
den  left  for  New-Orleans,  I was  taken  with  a slight  fe- 
ver, pains  in  my  bones  and  head,  and  other  symptoms 
of  the  small-pox.  I had  been  previously  vaccinated, 
and  therefore  cared  little  for  the  disease  except  as  it  oc- 
casioned annoyance  and  severe  suffering.  On  the  22d, 
Washington’s  birthday,  a lithographed  portrait  of  the 
“ Father  of  his  Country”  was  brought  to  each  prisoner 
by  a warm-hearted  and  enthusiastic  American  resident, 
and  accompanying  these  were  a generous  chicken  pie 
and  several  bottles  of  excellent  wine.  I was  much  too 
ill,  however,  to  partake  of  these  luxuries  ; in  fact,  I was 
unable  to  sit  up  from  extreme  dizziness  and  pain  in  my 
head.  I took  little  or  no  medicine  for  the  disease,  and 


232 


BACK  AGAIN. 


after  suffering  greatly  for  some  six  or  eight  days,  final- 
ly recovered,  and  without  being  in  the  least  marked. 
Those  who  had  never  been  vaccinated  suffered  incred- 
ibly, and  were  badly  pitted  if  they  survived  ; but  many 
of  them  died  of  the  disease.  In  such  as  had  been  vac- 
cinated, the  disease  was  mild  in  comparison,  although 
they  endured  the  very  extreme  of  pain  from  bad  at- 
tendance and  the  want  of  comfortable  apartments  and 
beds  to  sleep  upon.  That  any  of  those  recovered  who 
had  the  disease  in  its  worst  form  while  upon  the  road, 
is  certainly  remarkable — their  sufferings  were  horrible, 
and  numbers  of  them  were  not  only  pitted  to  a great 
degree,  but  one  or  two  were  so  unfortunate  as  to  lose 
an  eye. 

On  the  25th  of  February,  without  a word  or  hint  of 
previous  warning,  we  were  all  ordered  to  pack  up  and 
remove  to  other  quarters,  our  guard  not  even  informing 
us  whither  we  were  to  be  taken.  By  this  time  I had 
almost  entirely  recovered  from  my  illness,  and  as  Judge 
Ellis  had  kindly  sent  me  an  excellent  mattress  and  cot 
bedstead,  I was  very  comfortable.  My  companions, 
who  still  slept  on  the  floor,  were  exceedingly  annoyed 
by  the  legions  of  chinches  that  infested  the  place,  but  I 
was  enabled  to  keep  the  tormentors  from  my  imme- 
diate premises  during  the  greater  part  of  the  night,  and 
began  fairly  to  conceive  a liking  for  our  prison-house, 
dirty  and  dreary  as  it  was.  The  anticipation  of  being 
placed  in  worse  quarters,  for  we  heard  horrible  stories 
of  the  prisons  of  Mexico,  may  have  induced  this  feel- 
ing. 

After  being  formed  in  front  of  our  prison,  with  the 
soldiers  of  our  guard  stationed  on  either  side,  we  were 
ordered  to  march.  Our  course  was  in  the  direction  of 
San  Lazaro,  and  a walk  of  a few  minutes  found  us  once 


GETTING  USED  TO  CHAINS. 


233 


more  safely  housed  within  the  walls  of  that  gloomy 
establishment.  Five  of  my  convalescent  companions 
were  now  ordered  to  be  in  immediate  readiness  for  a 
move,  together  with  three  of  those  who  had  been  left  at 
San  Lazaro  when  we  were  first  taken  thence.  It  was 
now  evident  that  some  of  us  wnre  still  to  be  retained 
within  the  hospital — the  disposition  to  be  made  of  our 
companions  was  shrouded  in  Mexican  mystery,  the 
most  impenetrable  of  all.  Under  the  usual  strong  guard 
the  eight  Texans  were  marched  off,  each  man  carrying 
his  blanket  and  little  wallet. 

The  next  day,  a Mexican  girl  called  at  San  Lazaro 
with  news  of  Colonel  Cooke’s  party.  Watching  an 
opportunity,  when  no  one  was  observing  us,  Francisca, 
for  that  was  the  girl’s  name,  slipped  a note  into  my 
hand.  As  soon  as  I could  open  it  without  attracting 
the  notice  of  our  sentinels,  for  one  or  two  of  them  were 
continually  marching  before  our  cots,  I found  the  billet 
to  be  from  one  of  our  companions  who  had  been  separ- 
ated from  us  the  preceding  day.  He  said  that  they 
were  all  with  Colonel  Cooke’s  party  at  Santiago,  and  in 
chains : but  that  wearing  the  “ trinkets”  was  nothing 
after  a person  got  used  to  them  ! This  was  philosophi- 
cal, to-  say  the  least  of  it.  In  addition,  the  writer  in- 
formed me  that  a number  of  the  prisoners  were  about 
to  be  taken  to  Tacubaya,  a small  but  pleasant  village 
some  five  miles  from  the  city,  to  work  upon  the  road  in 
front  either  of  the  archbishop’s  or  of  Santa  Anna’s  pal- 
ace, and  that  I could  probably  join  the  delightful  party 
by  reporting  myself  well ! Here  was  an  opportunity 
to  get  used  to  chains,  and  to  obtain  fresh  air  and  exer- 
cise ; but  feeling  that  I had  no  highway  taxes  to  work 
out  in  Mexico,  and  not  being  particularly  anxious  to  ap- 
pear in  public  with  one  end  of  a long,  jingling,  clanking 
U 2 


234 


ANOINTING. 


chain  made  fast  to  my  ankle,  and  a man  at  the  other 
end,  I took  all  the  pains  in  my  power  to  decline  the  po- 
lite invitation  of  my  friend.  I was  in  no  very  enviable 
situation,  to  be  sure,  confined  in  San  Lazaro  among  hide- 
ous, unclean  wretches,  whose  very  aspect  was  enough 
to  frighten  a man  into  almost  any  measure ; but  as  in 
the  hospital  they  would  not  place  me  in  chains,  and  as 
I would  have  a far  better  opportunity  of  making  an 
escape  while  there,  I resolved  to  remain  and  forego  all 
the  fresh  air  and  exercise  I might  obtain  while  working 
upon  Santa  Anna’s  roads,  and  in  the  fetters  of  a crimi- 
nal. To  remain  at  -San  Lazaro  was  a matter  easy 
enough,  at  least  so  long  as  real  sickness  might  detain 
any  of  my  companions  ; for  the  hospital  physician  was 
a worthy,  good-natured  man,  not  disposed  to  investigate 
too  closely  a chronic  rheumatism  I “ got  up”  especially 
as  an  excuse  to  stay.  The  only  prescription  he  order- 
ed in  my  case  was  a warm  bath  in  the  morning,  and  an 
occasional  greasing  at  night.  The  former  was  agree- 
able enough ; the  latter  I infinitely  preferred  to  taking 
his  vile  glauber  salts,  cosamiento  bianco*  and  other  in- 
ward remedies.  This  practice  of  anointing  the  pris- 
oners from  head  to  foot,  with  a preparation  of  harts- 
horn, lard,  and  other  ingredients  which  I could  not  de- 
tect, was  very  common  in  San  Lazaro. 

I remember  laughing  heartily  one  evening  while 
Lieutenant  Burgess,  one  of  the  Texan  officers,  was 
rubbed  with  the  liniment  by  a broad-shouldered,  large- 
mouthed Mexican.  The  former  was  a man  of  less  than 
the  medium  size,  while  the  operator  was  one  of  the 
largest  Mexicans  I had  ever  seen.  He  had  just  finish- 

* The  cosamiento  bianco  appeared  to  be  a very  common  and  very  innocent 
medicine — to  judge  from  its  appearance  and  taste,  a mixture  of  magnesia  and 
water. 


DEATH  OF  A LEPER. 


235 


ed  rubbing  the  shoulders  of  the  lieutenant,  and  had 
ceased  his  operation  for  a moment,  when  Burgess,  look- 
ing him  full  in  the  face,  with  a ludicrous  expression  of 
mock-gravity  and  well-counterfeited  alarm,  exclaimed, 
“ I wonder  if  the  fellow  is  going  to  swallow  me  alive  !” 

On  the  26th  of  February,  Mr.  Lawrence,  who  was  to 
depart  the  next  morning  in  the  stage  for  Vera  Cruz, 
called  at  San  Lazaro  to  take  his  leave  of  me,  accom- 
panied by  a gentleman  who  is  a Corsican  by  birth,  but 
who  is  a naturalized  American.  They  were  not  ad- 
mitted into  the  hospital,  express  orders  having  been 
given  that  no  foreigner  should  be  allowed  to  visit  us ; 
but  the  sergeant  of  the  guard  permitted  me  to  see  them 
at  the  front  entrance.  Lawrence’s  face  gave  me  little 
encouragement  as  regarded  my  liberation.  He  en- 
deavoured to  offer  some  hopes  of  a speedy  release,  but 
I could  plainly  read  that  he  hoped  rather  than  believed 
such  would  be  the  case.  After  I had  told  him  to  in- 
form my  friends  in  the  United  States  that  I would  con- 
trive some  way  to  escape  if  the  government  did  not 
effect  my  liberation,  that  I had  already  gone  through 
much  and  could  endure  a great  deal  more,  my  two 
friends  took  their  leave.  Why  I know  not,  but  during 
an  imprisonment  of  seven  months  I never  felt  so  dis- 
pirited, so  ill  at  ease,  and  so  restless  as  on  this  occasion, 
and  determined  to  embrace  any  opportunity  to  escape 
that  might  occur. 

The  night  Lawrence  left  us,  a poor  leper  died  in  our 
room.  To  pass  away  the  long  evening  I was  engaged 
at  a game  of  piquet  with  one  of  my  fellow-prisoners, 
when  an  attendant  came  and  requested  us  to  speak  only 
in  whispers,  as  there  was  a man  dying  a few  yards 
from  us.  He  said  there  was  no  objection  to  our  con- 
tinuing our  play ; but  as  a priest  was  in  close  commu- 


236 


SCENES  IN  THE  LEPER-HOSPITAL. 


nion  with  the  sufferer,  loud  talking  might  disturb  him 
in  his  holy  office.  We  ceased  playing  when  the  game 
was  over,  and  immediately  after  retired  to  our  cots. 

I could  not  but  indulge  in  a train  of  serious  reflec- 
tions upon  the  singular  objects  by  which  we  were  sur- 
rounded. In  the  same  room,  and  but  a few  steps  from 
me,  an  unfortunate  lazarino  was  receiving  the  last  con- 
solations the  religion  he  professed  offers  to  the  dying, 
while  close  by,  a party  of  his  companions,  themselves 
within  a few  short  steps  of  the  same  grave  which 
was  soon  to  receive  the  dying  man,  were  busily  en- 
gaged at  a game  of  monte ! So  used  to  scenes  of  this 
description  were  the  inmates  of  San  Lazaro  that  they 
would  have  indulged,  even  at  this  time,  in  their  usual 
boisterous  and  most  unnatural  mirth  had  not  the  priest 
forbidden  it.  In  a far  corner  of  the  room  a musical 
leper  was  strumming  some  lively  air  on  a mandolin  ; 
and  although  he  played  in  a low  and  suppressed  tone, 
many  of  the  notes  of  glee  must  have  reached  the  ear 
of  the  wretched  sufferer.  Directly  opposite  jny  cot, 
an  aged  and  gentlemanly  Spaniard,  in  the  last  sta- 
ges of  leprosy,  and  who,  in  fact,  died  a few  weeks 
after,  was  ever  and  anon  striking  a light  and  smoking 
his  cigarritos  with  cook  and  philosophical  indifference. 
Around  a small  charcoal  furnace,  in  the  centre  of  the 
room,  a knot  of  lepers  were  heating  their  atole  and  tor- 
tillas— and  they,  too,  with  the  perfect  consciousness 
that  one  of  their  number  was  about  to  leave  them  for- 
ever, were  chatting  busily  and  tittering  with  the  half- 
suppressed  laugh  some  story  of  merriment  might  elicit 
— a laugh  which  would  have  been  boisterous  had  it  not 
been  restrained  by  the  presence  of  the  man  of  God. 
Even  among  ourselves,  we  could  not  look  upon  the 
scene  with  those  feelings  of  awe  and  deep  solemnity  it 


A MIDNIGHT  FUNERAL. 


237 


would  have  awakened  in  other  days  ; for  the  heart  be- 
comes callous  by  familiarity  with  affliction,  misery,  and 
death.  While  surrounded  by  the  humanizing  influences 
of  society,  it  is  difficult  to  conceive  how  the  warmest 
feelings  of  our  nature  may  become  chilled  by  exposure 
to  hardships  and  acquaintance  with  suffering ; and  con- 
fident I am  that  not  one  of  the  Texans  then  confined  in 
San  Lazaro  can  now  look  back  upon  the  scenes  he 
there  beheld,  without  actual  astonishment  at  the  cold 
indifference  he  manifested  at  the  time — scenes  which, 
were  he  to  encounter  them  at  home,  would  arouse  all 
becoming  sensibility. 

In  the  midst  of  a train  of  reflections,  as  singular  in 
their  nature  as  the  associations  around  me,  I fell  asleep. 
About  midnight  I was  awakened  by  the  ringing  of  a 
bell  and  a tramp  of  men,  and  on  opening  my  eyes  be- 
held a procession  of  priests  and  attendants,  bearing 
lighted  candles,  and  preceded  by  a boy  with  a small 
bell,  passing  my  cot  in  the  direction  of  the  dead  leper — 
for  he  had  now  breathed  his  last.  There  is  something 
touchingly  solemn  and  impressive  in  the  funeral  rites  of 
the  Catholic  Church,  even  at  ordinary  times  and  on  or- 
dinary occasions  ; but  a midnight  funeral,  in  such  a 
dreary  place  as  San  Lazaro,  gave  an  additional  solem- 
nity to  the  ceremonies.  As  the  procession  passed  me, 
the  members  of  it  were  muttering  inarticulate  prayers 
and  crossing  themselves.  The  brilliant  light  from  the 
numerous  candles  showed  the  inmates  in  different  atti- 
tudes of  prayer  near  their  cots — now  muttering  a few 
words,  and  then  beating  their  breasts  as  in  deep  grief 
for  the  loss  of  their  companion.  Arrived  at  the  corpse, 
it  was  placed  in  a rough  coffin,  all  knelt  around,  a pray- 
er for  the  rest  of  the  departed  spirit  was  said  by  one  of 
the  priests,  and  then,  with  incense  burning  and  the  bell 


238 


CHAPEL  OF  SAN  LAZARO. 


ringing,  the  procession  inarched  in  regular  order  from 
the  room,  leaving  all  again  in  darkness.  Thus  ended 
the  impressive  and  melancholy  rites,  but  the  memory 
of  those  midnight  ceremonies  must  still  haunt  all  who 
were  spectators — I can  never  forget  them. 

The  morning  after  the  events  I have  just  related  hap- 
pening to  be  Sunday,  we  were  all  aroused  at  an  early 
hour  by  the  ringing  of  a small  bell,  calling  the  inmates 
of  the  hospital  to  mass.  On  this  occasion  I rose,  and 
hastily  dressing  myself,  attended  the  celebration.  The 
church  formed  one  side  of  the  establishment,  and  to  pre- 
vent all  means  of  escape,  a guard  was  stationed  at  the 
outer  door.  The  interior  of  the  church  was  decorated 
with  numerous  paintings  illustrative  of  the  sufferings  of 
our  Saviour,  and  especially  those  of  the  patron  saint  of 
the  establishment,  St.  Lazarus.  These  paintings  were 
generally  badly-executed  copies,  but  a wax  figure  of 
the  saint,  lying  in  a glass  case  and  representing  him  as 
dead,  was  revoltingly  natural.  The  artist  had  repre- 
sented his  subject  as  covered  with  sores,  and  so  faith- 
fully that  the  beholder  could  not  but  instantly  turn  from 
its  contemplation  with  feelings  of  deep  disgust.  The 
marble  floor  of  the  church,  for  in  Mexico  there  are  no 
seats  in  the  religious  establishments,  was  covered  with 
kneeling  lepers,  crossing  themselves,  beating  their 
breasts,  and  telling  their  beads.  After  standing  a short 
time  in  the  church  J left  it  for  my  quarters  in  the  ad- 
joining hospital,  resolved  never  again  to  attend  mass 
unless  compelled  by  those  in  whose  power  I was ; and 
as  the  priests  of  San  Lazaro  were  so  liberal  as  not  to 
enforce  our  attendance,  I did  not  a second  time  enter 
their  church.  In  other  places  the  prisoners  were  forced 
to  attend  the  religious  ceremonies,  and  in  chains. 

From  the  church  I returned  to  my  quarters,  and  be- 


MEXICAN  FRUITS. 


239 


gan  writing  long  letters  to  my  friends  in  the  United 
States,  having  learned  that  a packet  was  shortly  to  sail. 
At  dinner-time,  and  before  I had  yet  finished  a letter 
upon  which  I was  engaged,  we  were  visited  by  a pro- 
cession of  priests  and  young  lads,  the  latter  being  en- 
gaged in  a course  of  studies  before  taking  holy  orders. 
The  visit  was  not  intended  for  us  alone,  but  for  all  the 
inmates  of  the  hospital.  The  procession  made  the  en- 
tire circuit  of  the  room,  one  of  the  lads  handing  each  of 
the  unfortunate  prisoners  a medio*  and  a small  bunch 
of  paper  cigars.  Our  dinner,  which  on  Sundays  was  a 
little  better  than  during  the  week,  although  served  in 
the  same  cups,  was  brought  to  us  by  the  lads,  and  each 
knelt  upon  one  knee  as  he  gave  it  into  our  hands.  Af- 
ter this,  there  was  some  little  ceremony  in  relation  to 
the  poor  leper  who  had  died  the  night  before,  and  this 
over  the  procession  left  the  room. 

The  old  major-domo  of  the  hospital,  Don  Antonio  as 
he  was  called,  allowed  the  fruit- women  to  visit  us  at 
all  times,  and  this  served  to  render  our  situation  much 
more  endurable.  A person  can  live  entirely  upon  the 
delicious  and  almost  endless  varieties  of  fruit  which 
abound  in  Mexico,  and  little  did  I care  for  the  boiled 
meats  and  broths — the  regular  hospital  fare — when  I 
could  buy  the  fruit,  which  is  there  sold  at  a trifling  cost. 
Not  a day  passed  in  which  we  could  not  purchase  bana- 
nas, granaditas,  oranges,  melons  of  various  kinds,  pine- 
apples, cayotes,  chirimoyas,  different  species  of  a deli- 
cious fruit  called  the  zapote,  mangoes,  and  other  tropical 
productions,  many  of  which  I have  never  seen  in  any 
part  of  the  United  States.  Some  of  these  fruits  are 
raised  in  the  vicinity  of  Mexico,  but  the  larger  portion 
are  brought  from  the  tierras  calientes,  or  hot  countries, 
* Sis  and  a quarter  cents. 


240 


THE  VICAR  OF  WAKEFIEED. 


the  great  elevation  and  consequent  coolness  of  the  cli- 
mate in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  city  not  allowing  them 
to  be  cultivated  in  their  full  perfection. 

On  the  2d  of  March,  the  secretary  of  legation,  Mr. 
Mayer,  who  was  ever  attentive  to  me  during  my  con- 
finement, called  with  a bundle  of  American  newspa- 
pers. No  one,  unless  he  has  undergone  a close  impris- 
onment in  a foreign  country,  can  appreciate  such  a treat 
as  a file  of  newspapers  affords.  I read  and  re-read 
them,  advertisements  and  all,  and  the  different  familiar 
names  I saw  carried  me  back  to  other  and  happier 
days. 

The  next  morning  Mr.  Mayer  again  called  with  a 
box  of  excellent  cigars  and  several  bottles  of  wine,  a 
present  from  Mr.  Ellis.  Mr.  Falconer,  too,  who  had 
been  on  a visit  to  Real  del  Monte,  made  me  a call,  re- 
gardless of  the  danger  he  incurred  of  contracting  the 
contagious  diseases  which  prevailed  in  San  Lazaro.  I 
cannot  too  highly  appreciate  the  kindness  of  Mr.  May- 
er, Mr.  Black,  and  many  other  Americans  who  called 
upon  me  while  at  that  loathsome  prison — their  visits, 
which  certainly  were  fraught  with  no  little  peril  to 
themselves,  served  to  beguile  many  a heavy  hour,  and 
alleviate  an  imprisonment  which  would  otherwise  have 
been  insupportable. 

Mr.  Falconer  brought  me  a number  of  excellent 
books — among  them  several  of  Miss  Howitt’s  simple 
but  beautifully- written  tales,  and  Goldsmith’s  Vicar  of 
Wakefield.  I had  read  the  latter  frequently,  but  the 
circumstances  under  which  I was  now  placed  imparted 
to  it  unwonted  charms.  Surely  I never  before  had  ap- 
preciated this  chef-d’ouvre  of  that  great  master  of  Eng- 
lish composition.  The  simplicity  and  graceful  ease  of 
the  style,  its  quiet  and  playful  humour,  its  touching  pa- 


VARIETIES  OF  LEPROSY. 


241 


thos,  and  the  interest  of  the  narrative  quite  enchained 
me.  I almost  forgot  the  painful  situation  in  which  I 
myself  was  placed  while  reading  the  trials  and  afflic- 
tions of  the  pure  and  pious  vicar. 

From  the  4th  to  the  8th  of  March  our  time  passed 
without  any  incident  worthy  of  note  occurring.  On 
the  night  of  the  last-mentioned  day,  about  the  middle 
watches,  another  unfortunate  leper  died  in  our  room. 
He  had  suffered  much  during  the  twenty-four  hours 
previous  to  his  death,  his  groans  filling  the  air,  and  ren- 
dering the  situation  of  all  more  gloomy  than  ever. 
Again  the  procession  of  priests  and  assistants  was  in  at- 
tendance, the  usual  ceremonies  were  performed,  and 
the  body  was  carried  from  the  hospital  and  placed  in 
the  adjoining  church.* 

The  next  morning,  a Mexican  officer  and  guard  of 
men  arrived,  with  orders  to  escort  five-  of  my  compan- 
ions to  Santiago.  Iexpected  that  I,  too,  should  be  or- 
dered to  “ take  up  my  bed  and  walk”  with  the  rest ; 
but  the  hospital  physician  had  hot  as  yet  reported  jne 
well,  and  I was  allowed  to  remain.  I was  by  no  means 
desirous  to  change  my  quarters,  miserable  as  they  were  ; 

* If  all  the  Mexican  inmates  of  San  Lazaro  were  afflicted  with  leprosy, 
and  we  were  told  that  such  was  the  case,  there  mast  be  three  or  four  differ- 
ent species  of  the  disease.  The  faces  of  some  oT  the  lazarinos  were  covered 
with  blotches  and  eruptions,  while  their  hands  and  feet  were  unmarked. 
Others,  again,  had  complexions  exceedingly  fair  and  unblemished,  yet  their 
feet  and  hands  were  distorted  or  decayed.  Some  of  the  victims  of  the  dread- 
ful scourge  were  covered,  from  head  to  foot,  with  sores  and  ulcers  hideous 
to  look  at— and  then  there  were  two  or  three  cases  where  the  patients  pre- 
sented no  other  marks  of  the  disease  than  the.  loss  of  a nose.  But  the  most 
singular  case  of  all  was  that  of  the  old  Spaniard— I think  he  was  a Spaniard 
— whom  1 have  previously  mentioned  as  continually  smoking  his  cigarritos. 
His  flesh  appeared  to  be  entirely  gone — dried  up— his  skin  turned  to  a bluish 
purple — and  his  whole  appearance  was  so  strangely  changed  and  distorted, 
that  he  more  resembled  an  animated  mummy  than  aught  else  I can  compare 
him  to.  His  senses  he  still  retained,  while  his  actions  and  conversation 
convinced  us  that  he  was  a well-informed  and  gentlemanly  man. 

VOL.  II.— X 


2i2 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  A FETE. 


for  I felt  assured  that  I should  at  once  be  put  in  chains, 
and  sent  into  the  streets  to  work,  if  taken  to  Santiago. 
Still  I was  anxious  to  see  the  different  'members  of 
Colonel  Cooke’s  party,  but  San  Lazaro  had,  by  this  time, 
lost  many  of  its  horrors — we  can  soon  familiarize  our- 
selves with  any  spectacle,  however  revolting — and  I 
preferred  remaining  there,  at  least  until  I was  assured 
that  better  quarters  awaited  me  elsewhere.  Only  seven 
of  our  original  party  were  now  left  in  San  Lazaro,  four 
of  whom  were  slowly  recovering  from  severe  attacks 
of  the  small-pox. 

The  10th  of  March  was  spent  in  cleansing  and  pre- 
paring the  hospital  for  the  imposing  ceremonies  of  the 
day  of  San  Lazaro,  which  were  to  take  place  on  the 
morrow.  The  large  folding  doors  opening  to  our  apart- 
ment from  without  were  closed  and  fastened,  two  small 
side  doors  only  being  left  open  to  admit  the  immense 
throng  who  on  this  anniversary  visit  the  hospital.  A 
Yankee,  with  a strip  of  board,  a hammer,  and  half  a 
dozen  nails,  would  have  securely  fastened  this  large 
door  in  half  an  hour — it  took  half  a dozen  Mexicans, 
with  tools  and  timber  enough  to  build  a small  dwelling, 
an  entire  day  to  perform  the  same  Operation.  Not  one 
of  us  could  possibly  divine  what  object  these  Mexican 
carpenters  had  in  view  all  the  while,  until  one  of  them 
told  us  they  were  fastening  the  door.  This  little  cir- 
cumstance will  serveffo  show  the  state  of  many  of  the 
mechanic  arts  throughout  Mexico.  No  improvements, 
no  labour-saving  machines  are  ever  brought  into  re- 
quisition, but  the  same  means  to  effect  an  object  two 
hundred  years  ago  are  all  that  are  known  at  the  present 
day. 

In  the  mean  time,  while  the  clumsy  workmen  were 
busy  fastening  the  doors,  the  lepers  were  engaged  in 


GAY  ATTIRE  OF  THE  LEPERS. 


243 


decorating,  the  interior  of  the  room  ; and  here  the  Mex- 
icans excel.  Festoons,  flags,  and  devices,  cut  in  paper 
of  all  colours,  were  hung  about  the  walls,  and  the  lamps 
were  decorated  in  the  same  way.  The  word“carz- 
dad” — charity — was  also  neatly  cut  in  paper  and  pasted 
about  on  the  different  utensils,  and  in  places  where  it 
would  readily  strike  the  eye  of  visiters.  The  floor 
was  stained  with  a yellow  tint,  and  on  the;  ceiling  long 
strips  of  red,  white,  and  blue  muslin  were  tastefully  ar- 
ranged in  bows  and  different  fanciful  forms,  giving  re- 
lief and  beauty  to  the  general  appearance.  Flowers 
also  were  entwined  about  the  cots,  and,  considering  the 
material  with  which  the  lepers  were  provided,  I doubt 
whether  any  other  people  under  the  sun  could  have 
given  the  room  an  appearance  as  beautiful  as  ours  pre- 
sented on  the  occasion  of  which  I speak. 

At  an  early  hour  the  next  morning  the  clothing  on 
the  different  cots  was  changed,  and  the  lepers  began 
arraying  themselves  in  all  their  finery.  It  was  indeed 
strange  to  see  these  unfortunates — many  of  whom  were 
standing  almost  upon  the  brink  of  the  grave,  and  whose 
forms  and  faces' were  revolting  to  such  a degree  that 
the  first  sight  could  not  but  create  the  most  sickly  sen- 
sations— I repeat,  it  was  most  wondrous  strange  to  see 
them  equipped  in  their  glaring  holyday  finery,  appa- 
rently as  vain  as  giddy  drawing-room  belles,  their  self- 
esteem leading  them  into  an  extravagance  of  display 
that  would  have  been  irresistibly  comic  had  not  the  cir- 
cumstances of  their  position  been  otherwise  so  melan- 
choly and  deplorable. 

As  the  hour  of  nine  approached  the  visiters  began 
to  assemble.  Entering  by  one  of  the  side  doors,  they 
would  slowly  walk  the  entire  circuit  of  the  room,  ex- 
amine the  different  inmates,  bestow  such  presents  as 


244 


ALMSGIVING. 


they  had  brought  with  them,  and  then  depart  by  the 
door  on  the  opposite  side.  This  method  of  entering 
and  departing  was  adopted  to  prevent  that  crowd  and 
confusion  which  would  otherwise  have  taken  place. 

By  twelve  o’clock  the  throng  was  immense,  a con- 
tinual stream  of  visiters  pouring  into  the  hospital.  There 
were  gentlemen  and  leperos  ; priests,  with  their  shovel- 
hats,  and  soldiers ; girls  with  the  Poblana  dress — short 
and  gaudy  petticoats,  fancifully- worked  chemises,  gay 
satin  shoes,  and  no  stockings — end  girls  with  hardly 
any  dress  at  all ; monks  and  gamblers  ; beggars  in  l'ags 
and  ladies  richly  attired  in  satin,  and  brilliant  with  dia- 
monds ; friars  and  vagabonds ; in  short,  a general  as- 
sortment of  a population  than  which  one  more  diversi- 
fied does  not  exist.  The  cots  occupied  by  myself  and 
companions  were  in  the  corner  of  the  room  near  which 
the  throng  entered,  and  all  stopped  to  gaze  at  us  with 
intense  curiosity.  Finding  that  almost  all  brought  with 
them  some  present  to  bestow,  and  that  we  were  to  re- 
ceive every  claco,  cigar,  loaf  of  bread,  or  whatever  was 
offered,  I endeavoured  to  assume  as  independent  an  air 
as  possible,  and  let  them  know  that  I did  not  in  any 
way  stand  in  need  of  their  charity.  I cordially  disliked 
the  idea  of  sitting,  like  a poor  beggar  at  a corner,  and 
receiving  the  pitiful  alms  of  every  passer;  but  to  avoid 
it  was  impossible.  To  prevent  wounding  the  feelings 
of  those  who  were  certainty  actuated  by  the  kindest 
motives,  I took  everything  that  was  offered — loaves  of 
bread,  cakes,  oranges,  flowers,  fruits,  puros,  cigarritos, 
money,  and  all.* 

* The  puro  is  the  common  cigar  of  Mexico.  The  ends  are  not  pointed,  as 
are  those  manufactured  in  Havana,  but  are  cut  square  and  the  puros  are  then 
put  in  papers  of  eight,  twelve,  or  sixteen.  Many  of  them,  when  well  cured, 
are  very  fair  cigars,  yet  all  lack  the  coolness  and  fragrance  of  those  made  in 
Cuba. 


A HARVEST  OF  CHARITY. 


245 


Among  the  throng  was  a party  of  exceedingly  well- 
dressed  ladies,  evidently  belonging  to  the  first  society 
of  Mexico.  They  scrutinized  the  Texans  closely,  and 
appeared  at  a loss  to  know  who  we  were,  and  by  what 
singular  chance  we  happened  to  be  confined  within  the 
dreary  walls  of  San  Lazaro.  Upon  our  satisfying  their 
curiosity,  one  of  the  ladies  immediately  sent  off  two  of 
the  servants  who  accompanied  them,  who  returned  in 
about  an  hour  with  a sumptuous  dinner,  provided  ex- 
pressly for  us.  The  ladies  themselves  did  us  the  honour 
of  waiting  upon  us,  bringing  the  different  courses  with 
their  own  hands,  and  appeared  to  take  a lively  inter- 
est in  our  unfortunate  situation.  Who  they  were  I 
was  unable  to  ascertain — I never  saw  one  of  them  af- 
terward. 

It  was  not  until  near  dark  that  the  immense  throng 
began  to  diminish  in  the  least,  and  as  this  is  the  only 
day  in  the  year  when  San  Lazaro  is  visited,  all  Mexico 
appeared  to  have  turned  out.  Occasionally  I mixed  in 
with  the  crowd,  and  took  the  circuit  of  the  room,  but 
arriving  at  the  front  door  invariably  found  one  of  our 
guard  standing  there  to  invite  me  back  to  my  cot.  I 
wished  to  avoid,  as  I said  before,  receiving  the  simple 
presents  of  the  visiters,  and  for  this  reason  kept  awray 
from  my  cot  as  much  as  possible  ; but  when  night  came, 
and  I took  an  account  of  stock,  I found  that  I had  re- 
ceived almost  enough  bread,  oranges,  and  Cakes  to  load 
a hand-cart,  a hatful  of  cigarritos  and  puros,  besides  sev- 
eral dollars’  worth  of  clacos-  and  medios,  the  smallest 
coins  of  the  country.  These,  when  the  kind  donors 
were  out  of  sight,  I gave  to  such  of  my  companions  as 
really  stood  in  need,  who  were  sincerely  thankful  for 
such  a godsend.  When  night  had  finally  set  in  our 
room  was  again  deserted  except  by  its  unfortunate  in- 
X 2 


246 


A YANKEE  DISH. 


mates,  and  thus  ended  the  11th  of  March  in  San  La- 
zaro. 

Two  days  after  this  great  celebration,  a present  was 
sent  me  from  a Mexican  lady,  such  as  probably  never 
before  was  made  in  the  country.  She  is  the  wife  of  an 
American  resident  of  Mexico,  pretty,  and  exceedingly 
intelligent,  and  is  well  known  in  the  city  for  her  great 
vocal  abilities — having  frequently  given  concerts,  and 
appeared  with  much  success  at  the  Italian  opera.  She 
had  called  upon  me  twice  while  in  San  Lazaro,  and 
with  the  customary  Mexican  politeness  had  offered  me 
anything  and  everything  in  her  house.  The  moment  a 
person  enters  the  dwelling  of  a well-bred  Mexican  he  is 
told  that  all  it  contains  is  at  his  disposal — is  his.  In 
truth,  one  enjoys  hospitalities  in  that  Republic  he  does 
not  find  elsewhere ; but  should  the  traveller  accept  ev- 
ery offer  of  houses,  furniture,  horses,  guns,  and  jewelry 
that  is  made  him  while  journeying  through  Mexico,  he 
would  make  a very  profitable  speculation  by  a tour  in 
that  country.  Admire  a horse  upon  which  a Mexican 
is  seated — he  is  yours : remark  that  a ring  or  breastpin 
is  rare  or  beautiful  — it  is  at  your  disposal  instanter. 
Such  is  Mexican  etiquette — polite,  but  unmeaning. 

The  present  to  which  I have  alluded  was  neither 
more  nor  less  than  a large  dish  of  codfish  and  potatoes, 
well  cooked,  and  in  quantity  sufficient  for  a score  of 
half-starved  Yankees.  I happened  to  be  “raised”  far 
enough  “ Down  East”  myself  to  have  a natural  fondness 
for  this  dish,  a common  and  favourite  one  in  that  section 
of  the  country,  and  nothing  the  fair  senora  could  have 
sent  me  would  have  been  more  acceptable.  I warmed 
and  rewarmed  the  savoury  compound,  morning,  noon, 
and  night,  and  day  after  day,  for  it  lasted  more  than  a 
week,  and  during  this  time  the  regular  hospital  fare 


ANOTHER  FESTAL  DAY. 


247 


found  no  favour  in  my  eyes.  The  husband  of  the  lady, 
who  was  a native  of  the  seacoast  of  Massachusetts,  was 
doubtless  a great  lover  of  this  Cape  Cod  luxury,  and  as 
I was  a paisano  of  his,  the  sehora  supposed  that  I too 
was  fond  of  it.  She  was  certainly  right  in  her  conjec- 
tures, although  I doubt  whether  my  partiality  for  it 
would  have  been-  as  great  under  other  circumstances. 
The  farther  we  find,  ourselves  from  the  scenes,  the  cus- 
toms, and  the  dinners  of  our  childhood,  the  more  do  we 
enjoy  anything  resembling  them,  especially  the  latter, 
which  we  may  chance  to  meet  in  our  wanderings. 

On  Friday,  the  18th  of  March,  one  w-eek  before  Good 
Friday,  they  had  some  kind  of  celebration  in  our  room, 
the  object  of  which  I did  not  learn.  I had  received  a 
copy  of  “ Charles  O'Malley”  from  Mr.  Mayer  during 
the  day,  and  was  Fusily  engaged  in  its  perusal ; but 
even  that  laughable  book  could  not  entirely  withdraw 
my  attentioh  from  the  scenes  enacted  around  me. 

During  the  day  a full-length  picture  of  our  Saviour, 
nailed  to  the  cross,  was  hung  upon  the  wall  at  the  op- 
posite side  of  the  room  from  where  my  cot  was  placed. 
Around  this  picture  were  hung  several  smaller  ones, 
exhibiting  the  Virgin  in  different  scenes,  and  also  a 
painting  of  St.  Lazarus.  These  were  decorated  with 
wreaths  and  festoons  of  flowers,  and  at  the  foot  of  all 
was  an  altar  having  a small  figure  of  our  Saviour  exe- 
cuted in  wood,  and  dressed  in  a fashion  partaking  more 
of  the  modern  than  of  the  ancient  or  classic  style — stat- 
ues of  the  apostles,  and  I believe  even  of  their  great 
Master  himself,  are  sometimes  seen  in  Mexico  clad  in 
military  uniforms,  with  cocked-hats  upon  their  heads  ! 
Upon  the  altar  I have  alluded  to,  in  addition  to  the  fig- 
ure, were  a number  of  massive  candlesticks  containing 
large  wax  candles,  and  the  beauty  of  the  grouping  was 


248 


A CHORUS  OF  LEPERS. 


tastefully  enhanced  by  flowers,  oranges  stuck  full  of 
glittering  flags  and  covered  with  gold  leaf,  and  many 
ingenious  devices  that  no  other  people  than  the  Mexi- 
cans know  so  well  how  to  get  up  and  arrange. 

When  dark  came,  the  female  lepers,  dressed  in  all 
their  finery,  began  to  assemble,  the  numerous  candles 
were  lighted,  and  after  all  were  collected,  the  ceremo- 
nies of  the  night  commenced.  The  hospital  attendants 
with  their  families,  the  priests  attached  to  San  Lazaro, 
with  a few  visiters,  were  present,  and  took  part  in  a 
long  and  discordant  chant,  the  like  of  which.  I am  confi- 
dent has  never  been  heard  beyond  the  walls  of  San 
Lazaro.  Every  line  in  this  wild  hymn  appeared  to  end 
with  “ Dolores  /”  and  certainly  more  dolorous  sounds 
can  scarcely  be  imagined.  All  the  lepers  joined  in  the 
chorus,  their  harsh,  croaking,  and  discordant  voices 
giving  an  effect  horribly  grating  to  the  ear.  They  did 
not  sing  through  their  noses,  for  many  of  them  had  none 
to  sing  through ; but  they  gave  utterance  to  screams 
and  screeches  which  seemed  not  of  this  earth.  Their 
appearance,  too,  kneeling  about  in  groups,  and  with 
their  disfigured  and  hideous  faces  lit  up  by  the  glare  of 
numerous  candles,  combined  with  the  strange  and  most 
unnatural  chorus,  gave  the  whole  affair  a strong  resem- 
blance to  some  monstrous  dream  of  a disturbed  imagi- 
nation— to  some  midnight  revel  of  witches  and  hob- 
goblins, held  within  a charnel-house.  Had  the  lepers 
been  arrayed  in  habiliments  befitting  their  unfortunate 
lot,  and  their  deportment  been  of  a character  more  con- 
sonant with  their  condition,  the  effect  of  the  whole 
scene  would  have  been  different ; but  to  see  the  wretch- 
es flaunting  in  gaudy  apparel,  and  many  of  them  joy- 
ous under  the  most  horrible  affliction  which  has  ever 


A DANCE  OF  INCURABLES. 


249 


been  entailed  upon  humanity — all  this  formed  a picture 
which  may  be  imagined,  but  cannot  be  described. 

The  long  chant  over,  the  priests  and  attendants  left 
the  room,  and  now  commenced  a performance  which 
was  even  more  singular.  One  of  the  lepers  brought 
forth  a harp,  and  a wild  and  strange  dance  was  imme- 
diately got  up  opposite  our  cots,  and  within  ten  yards 
of  us.  Many  of  the  dancers  were  cripples,  and  the 
performances  consisted  of  alternate  singing  and  dan- 
cing. Out  of  such  materials  the  reader  may,  perhaps, 
imagine  the  kind  of  exhibition  we  were  compelled  to 
gaze  upon.  I had  heard  of  a hornpipe  in  fetters — 
here  was  one  on  crutches.  The  horrible  orgies  were 
continued  until  near  midnight,  and  as  the  actors  in  the 
scene  were  well  supplied  with  liquor,  the  wild  revel 
grew  louder  and  more  boisterous  as  the  hours  sped 
along.  One  by  one,  exhausted  by  their  efforts,  they 
dropped  off,  and  by  the  time  the  numerous  city  bells  had 
tolled  the  hour  of  twelve,  all  again  was  quiet  in  our 
room  save  the  groans  of  some  more  unfortunate  lazari- 
nos,  who,  from  pain  and  infirmity,  had  been  unable  to 
join  in  ceremonies  at  once  partaking  of  the  grotesque 
and  solemn. 


250 


MEXICAN  IMPROVISATORES. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Another  Dance  in  San  Lazaro. — Mexican  Improvisatores.— Accident  to  a 
couple  of  Dancers.  — Fondness  of  the  Mexicans  for  Music.: — American 
Visiters.  — An  agreeable  Afternoon  passed.  — Good  Friday,  and  a better 
Dinner. — Fasts  preferable  to  Feasts. — A drunken  Lazarino.  — Touching 
Incident. — Visits  of  our  Friends  prohibited. — Speculations  as  to  the  differ- 
ent Modes  of  escaping  from  San  Lazaro.— Several  Plans  agitated. — The 
Foreigners  once  more  permitted  to  visit  us. — News  of  the  Appearance  of 
an  American  Fleet  upon  the  Mexican  Coast. — Advised  not  to  attempt  an 
Escape. — A severe  Epidemic  in  San  Lazaro. — Horrible  Colds  and  worse 
Coughs. — Death  of  another  Leper. — A second  midnight  Funeral. — Rarity 
of  the  Atmosphere  of  Mexico.— A regular  Uproar  in  San  Lazaro. — Jose 
Maria  and  his1  inhuman  and  vicious  Conduct. — Mexican  Gamblers. — Far- 
ther Annoyances  from  Jose  Maria. — An  early  morning  Visit. — Prospects  of 
Release. — Santa  Anna’s  Reasons  for  not  liberating  us  immediately. — Gen- 
eral Thompson  at  Vera  Cruz. — Santa  Anna  anxious  to  shuffle  out  of  a 
Dilemma. — Bright  Anticipations  of  being  once  more  at  Liberty. — More 
American1  Visiters.— Arrival  of  General  Thompson  in  Mexico. — The  An- 
noyance of  Suspense.  — A File  of  American  Papers.  — Visit  of  General 
Thompson  to  San  Lazaro.— Letters  from  Friends.- — A Visit  from  Mr.  Per- 
rin.—Prospects  of  Liberation  again  clouded.- — An  Opportunity  of  Escape 
thrown  in  my  Way. — Determination  to  improve  it. — Anxiously  await  the 
arrival  of  Assistance  from  without. 

On  the  Sunday  night  following  the  strange  events 
related  in  my  last,  the  lepers  had  another  dance  in  the 
hospital,  accompanied,  as  usual,  by  singing.  The  Mex- 
icans are  great  improvisatores,  and  can  rattle  off  rhymes 
at  a moment’s  warning.  A stranger  is  frequently  struck 
with  surprise,  at  a fandango,  when  he  hears  one  of  the 
dancers  commence  a song  the  words  of  which  relate 
exclusively  to  himself,  and  which,  of  course,  is  “ got  up” 
expressly  on  his  account.  The  copiousness  of  the  Span- 
ish language  gives  the  greatest  facility  to  rhymesters  ; 
but  the  verses  of  the  lower  orders  are  generally  made 
up  of  senseless  jingle,  abounding  with  unmeaning  tropes, 


GENERAL  TASTE  FOR  MUSIC. 


251 


absurd  metaphors,  or  the  most  outrageous  inconsisten- 
cies. 

One  little  incident  occurred  during  this  evening  which 
may  be  worthy  of  notice.  While  a couple  were  dan- 
cing face  to  face,  with  a species  of  shuffling,  break- 
down step,  the  plank  in  the  floor  upon  which  they  were 
performing  their  j)as  de  deux  suddenly  gave  way,  and 
amid  screams  and  scrambling  both  disappeared  in  the 
dark  and  gloomy  cellar  beneath.  After  some  little  ex- 
ertion on  the  part  of  their  friends  they  were  extricated, 
and  fortunately  neither  was  so  much  injured  but  that 
they  immediately  chose  a fresh  plank  and  recommenced 
their  dance  and  song. 

Out  of  San  Lazaro  I have  heard  singing  among  the 
lower  orders  of  Mexicans  which  was  extremely  har- 
monious and  pleasing.  Without  the  slightest  knowledge 
of  music,  as  a science,  the  common  people  are  still  fond 
of  carolling  the  little  airs  of  the  country  in  chorus,  and 
have  ears  exquisitely  correct  in  singing  the  different 
parts.  Frequently,  while  upon  the  road,  might  the 
closely-tied  and  strictly-guarded  Mexican  prisoners,  or 
volunteers,  be  heard  giving  their  native  songs  and  cho- 
ruses with  most  pleasing  effect.  One  would  think  that 
these  unfortunate  men,  after  a long  day’s  march,  would 
be  more  inclined  to  sleep  than  to  sing  ; but  such  was 
not  the  case.  On  the  contrary,  some  dozen  or  fifteen 
of  them,  seated  upon  the  ground  after  their  scanty  sup- 
per, would  join  in  a melody  which  floated  sweetly  on 
the  evening  air.  The  different  voices,  from  the  highest 
falsetto  to  the  deepest  bass,  were  many  of  them  of  pu- 
rest and  softest  quality,  and  blended  together  with  a 
harmony  at  once  musical  and  soothing.  Madame  Cal- 
deron de  la  Barca,  in  her  entertaining  work  upon  Mex- 
ico, speaks  frequently  of  the  fondness  of  the  lower 


252 


A PLEASANT  AFTERNOON. 


classes  for  music,  and  of  their  rare  gifts  and  great  taste 
in  singing.  The  fair  author  considers  music  a sixth 
sense  with  the  Mexicans,  and  really  it  would  seem  that 
such  is  the  case. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  23d  of  March  I was  visited 
by  Mr.  Mayer,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Elliot,  who  had 
been  chaplain  to  the  United  States  exploring  expedi- 
tion, and  a young  American  named  Weed,  who  had 
been  travelling  some  two  years  in  Mexicd  and  the 
South  American  republics.  They  passed  the  whole 
afternoon  with  me,  and  so  far  as  regards  myself,  three 
or  four  hours  have  seldom  been  whiled  away  more 
agreeably.  We  all  had  many  anecdotes  of  travel  to 
relate,  most  of  them  amusing,  and  night  had  fairly  set 
in  before  my  friends  were  admonished  that  it  was  time 
to  depart.  T hat  quarter  of  the  city  in  which  San  La- 
zaro  is  situated  is  notorious  as  being  frequented  by  rob- 
bers of  the  worst  class,  fellows  who  would  have  little 
hesitation  in  taking  life  for  a few  dollars ; hence  there 
is  danger  in  traversing,  it  after  nightfall,  unless  well 
armed  ; and  as  my  visiters  had  not  taken  that  precau- 
tion on  setting  out,  they  now  hurried  their  departure. 
Should  any  of  them  chance  to  peruse  this  chapter,  they 
will  recollect  the  afternoon  they  spent  with  me  at  San 
Lazaro,  and  the  merry  time  we  passed — I never  once 
thought  that  I was  a prisoner  until  I accompanied  the 
gentlemen  as  far  as  the  door,  and  was  reminded  by  the 
guard  stationed  there  that  I could  go  no  farther.  Un- 
til some  time  afterward  I was  not  aware  that  Mr.  E. 
was  a clerical  gentleman,  else  there  might  have  been 
more  constraint  and  less  hilarity. 

Good  Friday  passed  in  San  Lazaro  with  no  incident 
to  mark  it,  save  that  a better  dinner  was  provided  for 
us  than  usual.  We  had  fish  served  in  different  modes, 


REBUKE  FROM  A LEPER. 


253 


frijoles  and  other  vegetables,  all  of  them  well  cooked. 
The  fast-days  we  always  preferred  to  the  feast-days; 
for  in  the  absence  of  meats  they  invariably  gave  us  far 
better  fare  in  every  other  respect. 

Here  I will  relate  a little  incident  which  occurred 
one  morning  in  the  hospital,  and  which  occasioned  me 
not  a little  annoyance.  Among  the  unfortunate  lazari- 
nos  was  one  poor  fellow,  fast  verging  towards  the 
grave,  who,  for  getting  intoxicated  and  afterward  quar- 
relling, was  sentenced  to  wear  a long  and  heavy  chain. 
The  leper  had  lost  a part  of  his  nose  and  almost  all  his 
powers  of  speech — in  fact,  \yas  only  able  to  articulate  a 
few  words  intelligibly,  and  these  in  a tone  harsh  and 
frightfully  discordant.  While  yet  stupified  by  liquor 
and  lost  to  all  feeling  of  shame,  he  appeared  to  care 
little  for  the  disgrace  which  had  been  inflicted  upon  him, 
but,  on  becoming  sober,  his  countenance  plainly  deno- 
ted that  the  iron  entered  his  soul,  and  occasioned  him 
much  distress,  not  only  of  body  but  of  mind. 

The  chain  was  tightly  riveted  to  his  right  ankle,  and 
whenever  he  left  his  cot  for  the  cocina  or  kitchen, 
where  the  lepers  warmed  their  food  and  made  their 
chocolate,  he  was  obliged  to  drag  it  after  him.  While 
passing  my  cot,  on  the  occasion  I have  alluded  to,  his 
face  wore  an  expression  unusually  lugubrious — so  gro- 
tesque yet  piteous,  that  I had  much  difficulty  in  repress- 
ing a smile.  It  would  seem  no  easy  task  to  read  a 
man’s  countenance  when  it  wants  a nose ; but  in  the 
present  instance  the  eye  had  a peculiar  expression  that 
was  a complete  key  to  his  thoughts.  He  appeared  to 
divine  what  was  running  in  my  mind,  came  to  a halt, 
and  turned  upon  me  another  look — a look  which  deno- 
ted that  he  deeply  felt  the  disgrace  of  wearing  the  gall- 
ing chain,  and  which  it  was  evident  he  also  intended  as 

Vol.  II. Y 


254 


VISITS  PROHIBITED. 


an  appeal  to  my  sympathy.  There  was  something  so 
ludicrous,  however,  although  mournful,  in  this  look — 
something  in  which  the  comic  was  so  strangely  mixed 
with  the  serious — that  for  the  life  of  me  I could  not  re- 
sist laughing.  This  was  too  much  for  the  leper.  He 
drew  back  the  foot  to  which  the  chain  was  attached, 
gave  me  a glance  full  of  reproach  for  my  want  of  feel- 
ing, and  then,  by  a violent  kick,  sent  the  instrument  of 
his  disgrace  clanking  across  the  floor.  He  then  gave 
me  another  upbraiding  glance,  uttered  with  much  effort 
the  worst  oath  in  the  Spanish  language,  and  stalked  off, 
dragging  his  chain  after  him.  Once  only  he  turned  his 
eye  towards  me,  as  if  to  ascertain  the  effect  his  singular 
movements  had  wrought ; and  if  my  own  face  beto- 
keaed  the  workings  of  my  mind,  I am  confident  the 
leper  was  satisfied.  I felt  vexed  with  myself  to  think 
that  I had  unnecessarily  wounded  the  feelings  of  one 
upon  whom  misfortune  had  laid  her  hand  so  heavily— 
one  whose  situation  called  rather  for  pity  than  ridicule 
— and  I resolved  never  again  to  give  him  cause  to  re- 
prove me  for  want  of  sensibility.  The  leper  appeared 
to  see  contrition  in  my  countenance ; and  as  he  after- 
ward manifested  no  ill  feelings  towards  me,  I had  the 
satisfaction  of  knowing  that  I had  made  him  sufficient 
atonement. 

From  the  22d  of  March  to  the  6th  of  April  not  a per- 
son was  allowed  to  visit  us  at  San  Lazaro,  the  authori- 
ties having  taken  some  whim  into  their  heads  which 
induced  them  to  forbid  our  friends  holding  any  commu- 
nication with  us.  During  this  long  interval— long  at 
least  to  one  confined — I determined  upon  making  an 
escape  if  possible.  So  long  as  my  friends  were  per- 
mitted to  have  personal  interviews  with  me,  and  daily 
held  out  hopes  that  I should  be  speedily  liberated,  so 


MODES  OF  ESCAPE. 


255 


long  my  situation  was  endurable,  although  my  better 
judgment  taught  me  to  believe  many  of  these  hopes 
delusive  ; but  now  that  I was  incomunicado — now  that 
all  intercourse  with  my  friends  was  cut  off  through 
some  trifling  caprice,  my  situation  became  irksome  in 
the  extreme. 

There  were  three  ways  by  which  an  escape  could 
be  effected  from  San  Lazaro.  The  most  feasible  plan, 
or  rather  the  one  that  would  require  no  Mexican  ac- 
complices, would  be  the  most  perilous  ; but  liberty  was 
then  worth  all  the  hazards  I should  be  compelled  to 
run.  The  plan  was  this:  attached  to  the  hospital  was 
a small  yard  which  we  were  allowed  to  visit  at  all 
times  during  the  day,  and  in  fact  until  dark.  At  this 
time  our  guard  was  changed,  the  new  sergeant  locking 
the  door  which  led  to  the  yard  for  the  night.  The 
yard  was  surrounded  by  a wall  about  twenty  feet  high, 
and  there  was  one  place  where  the  top  could  be  attain- 
ed, with  little  difficulty,  by  means  of  an  out-building 
which  had  partly  fallen  to  decay.  Once  upon  the  top, 
a person  with  sound  limbs  would  run  little  risk  in  jump-- 
ing  to  the  ground ; but  as  my  ankle  was  still  tender, 
from  the  effects  of  the  severe  injury  I had  received  in 
Texas,  I was  fearful  about  hazarding  the  jump.  Out- 
side the  walls  was  the  immense  plain  stretching  to- 
wards Guadalupe,  San  Lazaro  being  at  the  extreme 
edge  of  the  city  ; yet  a walk  of  a few  steps  would  take 
me  to  the  head  of  a street  leading  directly  into  the 
heart  of  Mexico.  All  I wanted  was  some  friend  to 
smuggle  a rope  into  my  hands,  which  I could  in  some 
way  fasten  to  the  wall,  and  thus  let  myself  down  in 
safety.  At  dusk,  and  just  as  the  new  guard  were  about 
locking  us  in,  I could  slip  stealthily  into  the  yard,  effect 
my  escape  over  the  wall,  and  then,  by  having  a friend 


256 


ARRIVAL  OF  A SQUADRON. 


at  the  head  of  the  first  street  next  the  hospital  to  con- 
duct me,  reach  some  safe  quarters  in  the  city.  This 
plan  gave  every  promise  of  success.  Should  I be  miss- 
ed immediately,  all  would  be  over  with  me ; but  with 
five  minutes’  start,  I could  reach  an  asylum  secure  from 
the  guai'ds. 

Another  plan  I agitated  in  my  own  mind  was  to  bribe 
the  guard  to  let  me  pass  out  during  the  night,  and  still 
another  was  to  induce  the  old  major-domo  of  the  estab- 
lishment to  leave  a door,  which  led  from  the  upper  part 
of  our  room  into  the  street,  open  at  night.  This  door 
had  an  alphabetical  lock,  the  secret  of  which  was  known 
only  to  him  ; had  it  been  secured  by  an  ordinary  lock, 
I could  find  means  to  procure  false  keys,  in  which  case 
it  would  afford  an  easy  and  safe  means  of  escape.  In 
the  mean  time,  I had  had  a map  of  the  Mexican  coun- 
try in  my  possession  for  several  weeks,  which  I had 
studied  so  thoroughly  that  I was  well  acquainted  with 
the  geography  of  every  section.  My  intentions  were, 
instead  of  endeavouring  to  escape  by  way  of  the  Atlan- 
tic, to  make  at  once  for  Acapulco  or  some  port  on  the 
Pacific,  thence  by  some  of  the  coasting  vessels  to  Cal- 
lao, where  I should  be  able  to  find  a vessel  up  for  the 
United  States  ; but  in  the  midst  of  all  these  calculations 
cii'cumstances  occurred  which  for  a time  drove  all 
thoughts  of  effecting  an  escape  from  my  mind. 

On  the  6th  of  April  several  foreigners  obtained  per- 
mission to  visit  us,  bringing  with  them  a number  of  pa- 
pers from  the  United  States,  and  also  news  that  a large 
American  naval  force  was  concentrating  in  the  Gulf, 
and  that  several  men-of-war  were  already  lying  off  Sa- 
crificios,  near  Vera  Cruz.  From  the  tone  of  the  jour- 
nals brought  me  I could  plainly  see  that  my  friends 
throughout  the  United  States  were  moving  with  great 


THE  INFLUENZA. 


257 


spirit  in  my  behalf,  and  pressing  upon  the  government 
the  necessity  and  justice  of  making  an  immediate  and 
imperative  demand  for  my  release.  This  was  all  I 
wanted.  I was  anxious  that  some  definite  action  in  my 
case  should  be  at  once  resorted  to,  that  I might  know 
what  to  expect,  and  that  the  annoying  uncertainty 
which  no^w  pressed  me  down  might  be  removed.* 

I mentioned  the  fact  of  my  contemplating  an  imme- 
diate escape  from,  San  Lazaro  to  my  friends.  They 
advised  me  to  give  up  all  thoughts  of  the  attempt,  at 
least  for  the  present.  Should  circumstances  render  it 
necessary  to  escape,  they  promised  me  every  assistance  ; 
but  as  now  there  certainly  was  a probability  of  prompt 
action  being  taken  in  my  case,  they  recommended  me 
to  give  up  the  idea  until  the  result  should  be  known. 
With  this  advice,  they  left  me  to  pore  over  the  files  of 
papers  they  had  brought  for  my  amusement. 

About  this  time  a severe  epidemic  broke  out  in  the 
hospital,  and  I believe  was  general  throughout  Mexico, 
in  the  form  of  a cold,  accompanied  by  a distressing 
cough.  Every  leper  was  more  or  less  affected,  and  the 
Texans,  too,  came  in  for  a full  share  of  the  malady. 
There  is  nothing  interesting  about  a cough,  even  when 
a person  has  a good  set  of  lungs  and  other  appointments 
to  give  it  full  effect ; but  among  the  unfortunate  lepers, 
many  of  whom  were  destitute  of  noses,  and  whose 
throats  were  severely  affected  by  the  disease  which 

* While  all  my  editorial  brethren  throughout  the  United  States  spoke  as 
with  one  voice  in  my  behalf,  during  the  unjust  imprisonment  I was  subjected 
to,  it  may  appear  invidious' to  single  out  one  as  more  deserving  of  my  grati- 
tude ; yeVI  cannot,  while  returning  my  warmest  thanks  to  all,  resist  men- 
tioning the  name  of  Mr.  Bullitt,  the  able  and  warm-hearted  editor  of  the 
New-Orleans  Bee.  He,  perhaps,  knew  more  of  my  intentions  on  first  start- 
ing for  Texas  and  Mexico,  was  better  enabled  to  judge  of  the  injustice  of  im- 
prisoning and  detaining  me,  than  any  of  his  compeers,  and  as  a consequence 
he  was  more  strenuous  and  untiring  in  his  endeavours  to  procure  my  release, 

Y 2 


258 


DEATH  OF  ANOTHER  LEPER. 


was  fast  hurrying  them  to  the  grave,  the  strangling 
noises  uttered  were  of  a nature  the  most  horrible. 
Night  after  night  I was  kept  awake  by  sounds  the  most 
distressing,  the  poor  fellows  apparently  in  strong  con- 
vulsions during  the  paroxysms,  and  some  one  of  them 
appearing  at  all  times  ready  to  commence  the  moment 
another  would  obtain  a short  relief.  In  this  way  a con- 
tinual din  and  harassing  clamour  were  kept  up,  and  the 
nights  we  now  spent  in  San  Lazaro  were  among  the 
most  annoying  of  all  our  imprisonment. 

From  the  6th  to  the  14th  of  April  our  time  passed 
heavily  and  drearily."  One  poor  leper  died  in  our  room 
during  this  interval,  a dreadful  cough  cutting  short  days 
to  which  his  deplorable  malady  would  inevitably  have 
soon  put  an  end.  Whether  he  had  more  money  or  in- 
fluence than  some  of  the  unfortunates,  who  had  here 
ended  the  journey  of  life  before  him,  I know  not ; but 
the  night  ceremonies  on  the  occasion  were  upon  a scale 
more  grand  and  imposing  than  were  those  which  took 
place  at  the  death  of  any  other  leper  who  died  during 
my  imprisonment  in  the  hospital.  The  procession  of 
priests  and  attendants  was  larger,  there  were  more  can- 
dles burning,  and  they  appeared  to  shed  even  a more 
lurid  glare  upon  the  wan  and  gloomy  countenances  of 
the  lepers  in  the  farther  parts  of  the  room.  At  every 
interval  when  the  paroxysms  of  coughing  left  them,  the 
lepers  muttered  prayers  for  the  repose  of  their  depart- 
ed comrade,  and  smote  their  breasts  violently,  as  if 
in  penance  for  their  own  unconfessed  transgressions. 
Amid  low,  murmured  prayers,  the  burning  of  incense, 
and  the  monotonous  ringing  of  a bell,  the  procession  left 
our  room,  and  again  all  was  gloom  ; a dismal  quiet 
reigned,  broken  only  by  the  frightful  coughs  which  were 
heard  on  every  side  — the  sufferers  apparently  half 


259 


t.  iut-fcJ  a*'/*"*-1 

A BRUTAL  CORPORAL. 

strangled  with  the  paroxysms.  Thereds  a rarity  in  the 
atmosphere  of  Mexico,  at  certain  seasons,  which  makes 
respiration  difficult ; and  in  addition  to  a slight  cough 
which  I had  at  the  time,  I suffered  from  a difficulty  of 
breathing  closely  allied  to  the  asthma,  which  gave  me 
much  annoyance. 

During  the  afternoon  and  evening  of  the  14th  of 
April  there  was  a grand  uproar  in  our  room,  in  which 
one  of  our  guard  received  a severe  flogging  from  the 
corporal.  The  duty  of  the  soldier  on  guard  was  to 
walk,  with  his  musket  at  a shoulder,  directly  in  front  of 
our  cots,  both  day  and  night.  On  the  afternoon  I refer 
to,  a gambling  leper,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  room, 
had  opened  a game  of  monte  upon  his  cot,  and  as  the 
.guard  had  that  day  been  paid  off,  he  found  ready  cus- 
tomers and  patrons  in  every  one  of  them.  A knot  of 
soldiers  and  lepers  were  congregated  around  him  du- 
ring the  afternoon,  and  among  them  the  corporal  of 
our  guard  had  taken  a hand  and  finally  lost,  not  only 
his  own  pay,  but  that  of  such  of  his  men  as  were  willing 
to  lend  him. 

A more  ill-natured,  morose,  and  vicious  fellow  than 
this  corpora]  I had  not  met  during  all  the  intercourse  I 
was  forced  to  hold  with  the  soldiery  of  Mexico.  His 
features  and  expression  proclaimed  him  a petty  tyrant 
of  the  worst  description  ; for  there  was  a lurking  malice 
in  his  eye,  a sinister  expression  in  his  mahogany-colour- 
ed countenance,  that  as  plainly  denoted  his  character  as 
a sign  over  a grocer’s  door  tells  the  passers-by  that 
sugar  or  coffee  may  be  purchased  within.  The  fellow 
took  every  occasion  to  annoy  us — would  prevent  our 
friends  from  entering  our  room  when  they  called — de- 
prived us  of  every  liberty  in  his  power,  and,  in  short, 
made  himself  odious  to  all.  His  name  was  Jose  Maria  | 


\ • \» 


• * ' V • V' 

260  A SOLDIER  BEATEN. 

and  here  I would  remark  that  Jose  Maria  is  the  John 
Smith  of  Mexico.  Call  the  name  in  almost  any  crowd 
you  may  meet,  you  will  find  Jose  Marias  ready  to  re- 
spond. 

When  the  wretch  had  lost  his  own  money,  and  could 
borrow  no  more,  he  appeared  to  lose  all  command  of 
his  bad  passionsj  One  of  our  party,  against  whom  lie 
had  some  ill  will,  he  drove  to  his  bed,  and  soon  after 
ordered  his  own  men  to  leave  the  gambling  cot  of 
the  leper,  and  by  this  means  “ blocked  the  game but 
no  sooner  had  he  left  the  room  for  a few  moments  than 
the  cards  were  again  produced,  and  the  game  resumed. 
On  returning,  and  finding  his  men  once  more  engaged, 
he  drew  the  stick  which  all  the  corporals  in  Mexico 
carry,  and  belaboured  them  most  unmercifully— and  all 
to  gratify  his  own  malicious  passions.  This  closed  the 
game  a second  time,  but  no  sooner  was  his  back  turned 
than  it  was  again  recommenced.  One  of  his  men  had 
won,  by  three  or  four  successful  bets,  some  ten  or  fif- 
teen dollars,  all  of  which  he  had  staked  on  the  turn  of 
a single  card.  The  game  of  monte  closely  resembles 
faro,  and  the  leper  had  hardly  commenced  dealing  be- 
fore Jose  Maria  again  made  his  appearance.  Walking 
stealthily  to  the  cot,  the  wretch  raised  his  stick,  and 
uttered  a horrible  oath.  The  poor  soldier  who  had 
staked  his  all  saw  the  impending  blow,  but,  Mexican- 
like,  his  love  of  the  game  overcame  all  fears  of  the  pain 
and  disgrace  of  a beating,  and  he  continued  to  watch 
the  cards  as  the  leper  slowly  turned  them  over,  one  by 
one.  Jose  Maria  now  struck  him  a violent  blow  upon 
the  back.  He  shrugged  his  shoulders,  but  still  watch- 
ed the  game  with  as  much  intentness  as  ever.  Another 
and  another  blow  followed  in  quick  succession,  and  still 
the  soldier  made  no  other  motion  than  a slight  flinching 


PASSION  FOR  GAMING. 


261 


as  the  stick  fell  heavily  upon  his  head  or  back.  The 
ungovernable  passion  of  the  corporal  appeared  to  gain 
fresh  strength  from  the  stoical  indifference  of  the  sol- 
dier, and  he  now  belaboured  the  poor  fellow  with  blows 
that  cut  to  the  very  quick ; but  still  he  did  not  move. 
His  all  depended  upon  the  turn  of  a card,  and  neither 
blows  nor  threats  could  drive  him  from  his  watch  of 
the  game.  An  unlucky  turn  at  length  decided  the  bet 
against  him,  and  now  for  the  first  time  he  turned  his 
head.  It  was  only  to  give  a look  of  stern  defiance  at 
his  cruel  oppressor,  for  he  did  not  dare  strike  back, 
and  then  coolly  to  walk  off.  • Exhausted  with  his  ef- 
forts, and  pale  from  exertion  and  passion,  Jose  Maria 
also  left  the  spot,  and  quiet  was  once  more  restored. 

I have  related  this  anecdote  to  show  how  deep-seat- 
ed is  the  passion  for  gaming  in  Mexico.  From  the  le- 
pero*  to  the  highest  dignitary — men  and  women — all, 
or  nearly  all,  are  alike  afflicted  with  the  passion.  They 
manifest,  too,  the  greatest  indifference  to  loss,  and  in- 
stances are  daily  occurring  where  a man  will  lose  his 
hat,  shoes,  blanket,  and  even  the  very  shirt  from  his 
back,  with  a coolness  and  nonchalance  which  in  any 
other  situation  would  be  highly  commendable.  He 
fears  no  pain  or  disgrace — starvation  he  looks  upon 
with  perfect  indifference — in  short,  so  strong  and  deep- 
seated  is  his  passion  for  any  game  of  chance,  that  the 
Mexican  will  stake  a month’s  food  in  advance  upon  the 
single  turn  of  a card,  even  were  he  to  know  that  star- 
vation would  be  the  inevitable  result  of  an  unlucky 
deal.  That  there  are  many  gentlemen  in  Mexico  who 
do  not  gamble  I have  little  doubt ; but  as  a genera]  rule, 
all  classes  are  more  or  less  addicted  to  games  of  chance. 

* The  Upero  is  the  loafer  of  Mexico,  not  one  afflicted  with  leprosy,  as 
many  of  my  readers  may  imagine.  The  latter  are  called  lazarinos. 


262 


HOPE  OF  A SPEEDY  RELEASE. 


For  hours  after  the  strange  scene  at  the  cot  of  the 
gambling  leper  sleep  did  not  visit  my  eyelids.  A con- 
tinued succession  of  horrid  sounds  from  the  lepers 
around  me — sounds  intended  for  coughs,  but  which  re- 
sembled more  the  last  rattling  struggles  of  dying  men — 
would  have  prevented  sleep ; but  to  these  were  added 
an  extreme  difficulty  of  respiration  on  my  own  part, 
and  the  unceasing  annoyances  of  Jose  Maria.  The 
wretch  had  seen  that  we  took  part  in  the  general  dis- 
satisfaction manifested  at  his  inhuman  conduct,  and 
sought  his  revenge  by  counting  us  every  half  hour  un- 
til after  midnight.  Not  content  with  simply  examining 
each  cot  closely,  he  held  a lantern  directly  in  our  faces, 
so  that  the  light  could  not  but  awaken  us  even  had  we 
been  ever  so  much  disposed  to  sleep.  It  was  not  until 
he  himself  became  completely  weary  with  too  much 
watching  that  he  ceased  his  annoying  attentions,  after 
which  I was  enabled  to  fall  into  a doze. 

At  an  early  hour  the  next  morning,  even  before  the 
sun  had  risen,  I was  awakened  by  a hearty  shake  of 
my  shoulders.  On  opening  my  eyes,  I was  not  a little 
astonished  on  seeing  Mr.  Mayer  sitting  by  the  side  of 
me  on  my  narrow  cot.  The  unusual  hour,  and  the 
fact  that  his  face  wore  an  expression  of  much  satisfac- 
tion, convinced  me  that  he  was  the  bearer  of  glad  ti- 
dings, and  with  not  a little  curiosity  I inquired  of  him 
the  news. 

Mr.  M,  informed  me  that  there  was  now  every  pros- 
pect of  my  speedy  liberation,  together  with  five  or  six 
of  the  other  prisoners  who  had  claimed  American  pro- 
tection. He  farther  stated  that  Mr.  Ellis  had  had  an 
interview  with  Santa  Anna,  at  which  the  latter  mani- 
fested a disposition  to  give  an  order  for  our  release  so 
soon  as  certain  movements  on  the  part  of  the  American 


SANTA  ANNA!S  MOTIVES. 


263 


government,  and  some  of  its  citizens,  could  be  satisfac- 
torily explained.  Among  these,  Santa  Anna  referred 
to  the  fact  that  a number  of  United  States  men-of-war 
had  either  anchored  or  been  seen  off  Sacrificios,  and  to 
a rumour  that  young  Frank  Combs  had  entered  Texas 
from  the  United  States  with  a body  of  mem  whose  in- 
tention was  to  invade  the  Mexican  territory.  He  far- 
ther mentioned  the  case  of  young  Spencer,  whose  move- 
ments in  New-Orleans  and  Texas  at  that  time  were  of 
a suspicious  nature,  and  that  there  might  be  some  de- 
sign against  Mexieo  at  the  bottom  of  them. 

That  all  these  circumstances  could  be  so  satisfacto- 
rily explained  as  in  no  way  to  compromise  the  dignity 
of  either  Mexico  or  the  United  States,  Mr.  Mayer  ex- 
pressed himself  confident,  and  at  the  same  time  con- 
gratulated me  upon  the  prospect  of  once  more  regain- 
ing that  liberty  of  which  I had  now  been  deprived  for 
seven  months.  After  informing  me,  in  addition,  that 
General  Waddy  Thompson,  the  new  minister  to  Mexi- 
co, had  arrived  at  Vera  Cruz,  and  was  then  on  the 
road  to  the  capital,  and  promising  to  call  upon  me  the 
next  day,  Air.  AI.  left  San  Lazaro. 

That  I was  not  a little  elated  by  this  favourable  turn 
in  my  affairs  may  be  readily  imagined.  I had  all  along 
believed  that  Santa  Anna  would  keep  me  in  confine- 
ment so  long  as  he  could  find  any  pretext  for  such  a 
course  ; but  that  the  moment  he. found  he  could  no  long- 
er detain  me,  he  would  find  some  excuse  for  granting 
my  release.  He  now  saw  that  the  subject  of  our  im- 
prisonment had  excited  a lively  interest  in  the  United 
States  ; that  meetings  were  held  at  different  points,  hav- 
ing for  their  object  a call  upon  the  government  to  de- 
mand the  immediate  and  unconditional  release  of  such 
Americans  as  were  entitled  to  its  protection ; and  that 


264 


SANTA  ANNA’S  CUNNING. 


several  of  the  state  legislative  assemblies  had  passed 
strong  resolutions  to  that  effect — resolutions  which  must, 
sooner  or  later,  drive  the  naturally  tardy  General  Gov 
ernment  into  other  measures  than  mere  argument  in 
order  to  secure  the  liberation  of  its  citizens.  He  more- 
over was  aware  that  General  Thompson,  a gentleman 
whose  character  for  promptness  and  decision  was  well 
known,  Was  now  on  his  way  to  Mexico  as  the  accred- 
ited minister  of  the  United  States,  and  he  naturally 
enough  supposed,  from  the  tone  of  the  public  journals, 
that  he  must  bring  with  him  stronger  instructions  in  re- 
lation to  our  release  than  any  which  had  been  sent  to 
Mr.  Ellis.  With  all  these  circumstances  staring  him  in 
the  face,  it  was  plain  enough  that  Santa  Anna  was  dis- 
posed to  shuffle  out  of  a dilemma  in  which  he  found 
himself  involved  ; and  to  do  it  with  as  good  a grace 
as  possible,  and  to  preserve  the  dignity  of  the  great 
Mexican  nation  spotless,  he  now  concluded  to  get  rid  of 
us  on  the  best  terms  he  could  make.  Hence  his  artful  ruse 
to  have  the  facts  I have  alluded  to  above — those  in  re- 
lation to  the  squadron,  young  Combs,  and  Spencer — ac- 
counted for,  knowing  all  the  while  that  there  was  real- 
ly nothing  in  them  to  arouse  the  suspicions  of  his  gov- 
ernment. 

But  even  should  Santa  Anna  refuse  to  grant  my  re- 
lease, I still  had  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  my  in- 
dividual case  would  be  definitely  acted  upon  — that  I 
must  shortly  know  my  fate,  whatever  it  might  be. 
Should  the  Mexican  government  still  refuse  to  give  me 
up,  I had  made  every  arrangement  to  effect  an  escape. 
In  doing  this,  I had  studiously  avoided  implicating  any 
member  of  the  United  States  legation,  but  had  found 
friends  among  the  foreigners  who  promised  to  assist  me 
in  any  way.  Money,  that  great  talisman,  I had  at  my 


ARRIVAL  OF  GENERAL  THOMPSON. 


265 


command  to  an  amount  that  would  open  any  prison- 
door  in  Mexico ; and  in  addition  to  this,  the  escape  over 
the  wall,  a mode  I have  previously  described,  was  open 
so  long  as  I remained  in  San  Lazaro.  Under  all  these 
encouraging  circumstances,  it  will  be  imagined  that  my 
spirits  were  not  a little  raised,  and  that  my  mind  was 
relieved  of  many  apprehensions  by  the  bright  anticipa- 
tions of  once  more  regaining  my  liberty,  either  through 
the  influence  of  my  government  or  by  my  own  individ- 
ual exertions. 

It  was  on  Friday,  the  15th  of  April,  that  Mr.  Mayer 
called  upon  me  with  the  good  news  just  related.  Du- 
ring the  day  I received  no  other  visits,  but  on  the  after- 
noon of  the  next  Mr,  M.  again  called,  and  this  time  in 
company  with  two  or  three  American  citizens.  He 
said  there  had  been  no  farther  action  in  relation  to  my 
release,  but  that  there  probably  would  be  that  evening, 
and  that  I should  be  made  acquainted  with  the  result 
immediately. 

From  the  Americans  I learned  that  General  Thomp- 
son was  expected  that  evening  in  the  stage  from  Vera 
Cruz,  and  that  a large  party  of  them  had  come  out  as 
far  as  San  Lazaro,  by  which  the  stage  passed,  to  meet 
and  escort  him  into  the  city.  While  we  were  speak- 
ing of  the  circumstance,  the  distant  rumbling  of  wheels 
was  heard.  My  friends  immediately  retired,  but  not 
until  they  had  promised  to  visit  me  again  before  dark. 

Shortly  after  their  departure  I could  plainly  hear 
the  stage,  in  which  was  the  new  minister  with  his  suite, 
rattling  by  the  hospital,  and  making  its  way  towards 
the  centre  of  the  city.  To  me  there  was  something 
unusually  enlivening  in  the  sounds,  for  I well  knew 
that  I was  now  soon  to  be  relieved  of  the  annoying 
suspense  which  had  long  weighed  upon  me  like  an  in- 

Vol.  II.— Z 


266 


PAPERS  FROM  HOME. 


cubus.  There  are  few  men  who  have  had  the  oppor- 
tunity of  feeling  the  harassing  annoyance  of  suspense 
to  the  degree  I had  experienced  for  the  last  two  months. 
Imprisoned  unjustly  in  one  of  the  vilest  holes  in  Chris- 
tendom — surrounded  by  loathsome  wretches,  whose 
very  aspect  was  enough  to  drive  one  almost  to  despe- 
ration— shut  out  completely  from  the  world — taunted 
almost  daily  by  my  Texan  comrades  with  invidious 
comparisons  between  my  own  government  and  that  of 
Great  Britain  in  looking  after  the  rights  of  their  sub- 
jects, and  half  convinced,  as  I was,  that  the  former 
was  not  moving  with  that  promptness  the  case  de- 
manded, I was  also  suffering  under  an  indisposition 
which  was  far  from  inconsiderable ; and  when  to  all 
this  is  added  the  circumstance  that  during  much  of 
this  period  I had  little  hope  of  a change,  except  such 
change  as  is  found  in  chains  and  labour,  the  reader 
may  easily  imagine  the  irksomeness  of  my  situation. 
But  now  the  time  had  arrived  when  the  dark  curtain 
of  suspense  was  to  be  raised — a suspense  so  torturing 
that  a sentence  to  ten  years’  imprisonment  would  have 
been  almost  a relief — now  my  position  was  about  to  be 
defined  in  some  way,  and  I certainly  felt  an  elevation 
of  spirits  I had  been  a stranger  to  for  months. 

At  sunset  two  of  my  friends  returned,  bringing  me  a 
large  file  of  papers,  and  word  from  General  Thompson 
that  he  would  visit  me  early  the  next  morning.  I spent 
hours  in  poring  over  the  papers  from  different  quarters 
of  the  United  States,  and  absolutely  forgot  my  troubles 
as  I read  the  many  articles  I found  in  them  relating  to 
my  own  case,  and  §aw  the  warm  interest  taken  in  my 
behalf  by  my  editorial  brethren  throughout  the  country. 

Shortly  after  breakfast  the  next  morning  I was  visit- 
ed in  San  Lazaro  by  General  Thompson  himself.  I 


GENERAL  THOMPSON’S  PROMISES.  267 

was  reading  when  he  entered,  seated  with  my  feet  rest- 
ing against  a large  medicine-chest  in  the  centre  of  the 
room.  On  seeing  him  at  the  door,  I advanced  to  meet 
him.  He  inquired  the  nature  of  the  diseases  in  the  hos- 
pital, and  on  my  informing  him  that  we  had  none  other 
than  leprosy  and  small-pox,  he  obtained,  through  the 
assistance  of  Mr.  Mayer,  permission  for  me  to  walk 
with  him  as  far  as  the  front  door  of  the  building,  where 
there  were  several  benches  or  seats.  Accompanying 
General  T.  were  Lieutenant  Faunce,  of  our  revenue 
service,  and  Messrs.  Coolidge  of  Boston,  and  Perrin  of 
New-Orleans.  These  gentlemen  brought  me  a large 
package  of  letters  from  my  friends,  and  expressed  the 
greatest  confidence  that  I should  return  with  them  to 
the  United  States. 

General  Thompson  asked  me  every  particular  in  rela- 
tion to  my  arrest  and  subsequent  imprisonment — prom- 
ised to  exert  himself  to  the  utmost  in  procuring  my  uncon- 
ditional release — and  moreover  said  that  he  would  en- 
deavour, at  least,  to  obtain  an  order  for  my  removal  to 
other  and  better  quarters  forthwith.  If  possible,  he  in- 
tended to  procure  my  release  upon  parole  until  my  case 
could  be  definitely  settled  one  way  or  the  other,  pledg- 
ing himself  to  give  me  up  whenever  the  Mexican  gov- 
ernment might  call  for  me.  After  a little  farther  con- 
versation the  new  minister  and  his  party  took  their 
leave. 

With  spirits  elated  I returned  to  my  gloomy  quar- 
ters, passing  much  of  the  day  in  perusing  and  reperu- 
sing the  letters  from  my  friends.  There  is  something 
at  all  times  soothing  and  grateful  to  the  feelings  in  re- 
ceiving one  of  these  written  tokens  of  attachment — 
something  which  convinces  that  you  are  not  forgotten — 
that  you  still  hold  a place  in  the  memory  of  those  en- 


268 


HOPES  DASHED  AGAIN. 


dearcd  to  you  by  ties  of  friendship ; but  bow  doubly 
grateful  to  me  were  these  kind  evidences  of  regard — 
the  first  I had  received  for  nearly  a year.  They  car- 
ried me  back  to  other  and  happier  days — to  scenes  I 
had  strong  hopes  of  soon  visiting — and  I almost  fancied 
myself  free  as  I scanned  their  pages.  But  alas  ! how 
often  is  the  cup  of  happiness  dashed  from  our  lips  when 
we  have  it  within  our  very  grasp.  Thirty-six  hours 
after  I was  indulging  in  these  pleasing  anticipations, 
and  while  bright  hope  was  opening  to  me  a prospect  of 
the  most  flattering  nature,  I was  plunged  into  the  very 
lowest  depths  of  uncertainty — I may  almost  say  of 
despair. 

On  the  morning  of  the  18th  of  April,  the  day  after 
General  Thompson’s  visit,  Mr.  Perrin  called  upon  me 
at  San  Lazaro.  From  his  conversation,  although  he 
endeavoured  to  offer  me  hope,  I could  plainly  enough 
see  that  the  chances  of  attaining  my  liberty  were  not 
as  favourable  as  they  had  been  some  two  or  three  days 
before.  The  partial  promise  to  release  me,  given  to 
Mr.  Ellis  by  Santa  Anna  on  the  14th,  the  latter  had 
probably  found  some  means  to  evade  entirely  or  to  de- 
fer, and  I was  confident  he  would  temporize  to  an  ex- 
tent which  no  other  diplomacy  than  Mexican  can  ever 
hope  to  equal.  In  that  particular  branch  of  diplomatic 
science — deferring  or  “ putting  oft’”  the  main  question 
— the  Mexicans  excel  even  the  Chinese. 

On  leaving  me,  Mr.  Perrin  advised  that  I should 
make  no  attempt  to  escape,  at  least  until  General 
Thompson  had  been  duly  received  as  the  accredited 
minister  of  the  United  States  ; but  a circumstance  which 
occurred  soon  after  he  left  the  hospital  determined  me 
to  make  the  attempt  at  once.  While  walking  in  the 
little  yard  which  we  were  allowed  to  visit  during  the 


PREPARATION  FOR  ESCAPE. 


269 


day,  I noticed,  standing  against  the  wall,  a long  pole, 
strong  enough  to  bear  my  weight,  and  at  equal  distan- 
ces, and  about  one  yard  apart,  were  placed  pegs.  For 
what  use  this  pole  was  originally  intended  I am  at  a 
loss  to  conjecture  ; at  the  time  I looked  upon  it  as  a 
special  interposition,  as  by  means  of  it  I could  easily 
enough  climb  to  the  top  of  the  wall,  and  then,  after 
dragging  it  over,  let  myself  down,  without  danger,  on 
the  other  side.  Watching  an  opportunity  when  I sup- 
posed no  one  was  observing  me,  I removed  the  pole  to 
one  of  the  corners  of  the  yard,  and  then  returned  to  my 
quarters  in  the  hospital.  I am  confident  not  one  of  the 
guard  observed  my  movements,  as  on  entering  the  hos- 
pital I found  them  all  engaged  in  conversation  with  the 
inmates,  where  they  could  not  possibly  have  seen  me. 

The  fact  of  my  having  either  seen  or  moved  the  pole 
I did  not  disclose  to  any  one,  not  even  my  friends.  My 
plan  was,  in  case  any  of  the  foreigners  called  upon  me 
in  the  afternoon,  to  divulge  the  circumstances  I have 
mentioned  to  some  one  of  them  who  knew  the  city  well, 
and  ask  for  his  assistance  in  enabling  me  to  escape. 
All  I wished  him  to  do  was  simply  to  name  either  the 
first  or  second  street,  running  from  San  Lazaro,  that 
led  directly  into  the  city,  and  place  himself  at  the  head 
of  it  at  dark,  dressed  in  such  a manner  that  I might 
easily  distinguish  him.  I then  intended  to  risk  the  dan- 
ger of  being  observed  while  clambering  over  the  wall. 
The  attempt  was  to  be  made  at  twilight,  and  just  before 
the  time  at  which  the  door  leading  to  the  yard  was  gen- 
erally locked  for  the  night. 

In  order  to  be  every  way  in  readiness,  I put  all  my 
money  and  valuables  in  my  pockets,  intending  to  leave 
my  clothing,  books,  &c.,  to  any  one  who  might  take 
them.  All  these  arrangements  made,  I now  awaited, 

Z 2 


270 


HOURS  OF  EXPECTATION, 


with  not  a little  anxiety,  the  arrival  of  some  one  of  my 
friends,  to  whom  I might  confide  my  secret  and  upon 
whose  assistance  I might  depend. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Hours  of  Expectation. — One  of  the  Santiago  Prisoners  brought  to  San  La- 
zaro,  sick  with  the  Small-pox. — Disappointed  Hopes. — Arrival  of  a Guard 
of  Soldiers  at  San  Lazaro. — Mysterious  Conduct  of  the  Commander. — 
Ordered  to  prepare  for  Departure. — A vile  Litter  produced. — Refusal  to 
enter  it. — Leave  San  Lazaro. — “Farewells”  of  the  Texans  and  “Adios” 
of  the  Lepers. — Gloomy  and  mysterious  night  March.— Interior  of  the  City 
of  Mexico. — Stared  at  by  the  Populace. — A Coach  ordered. — Misery  likes 
Company. — Dogs  in  the  Outskirts  of  Mexico. — Arrive  at  our  Destination. 
— Farther  Uncertainty. — Ushered  into  the  Presence  of  Women.  — The 
Mystery  unravelled. — Find  myself  in  Santiago,  and  among  Friends. — Or- 
dered to  make  Choice  of  a Partner  in  Chains. — Select  Major  Bennett. — 
First  Appearance  in  Fetters.— Congratulations  of  my  Friends  on  the  Oc- 
casion.— -Major  Bennett  quotes  Scripture  again. — Determination  to  escape. 
— Santa  Anna’s  Motives  in  the  Removal  to  San  Lazaro. — Action  of  the 
Mexican  and  United  States  Governments  in  relation  to  the  American  Pris- 
oners.— Consider  the  Chances  of  Liberation  as  hopeless  as  ever. — Strange 
Conduct  of  Santa  Anna. — No  Difficulty  in  shaking  off  the  Irons. — The 
“ Secrets  of  our  Prison-house.” — Character  of  the  old  Commandante  of 
Santiago. — Texan  Tricks  upon  a Mexican  Blacksmith. — The  Blacksmith 
and  Santa  Anna  in  Converse. — Description  of  Santiago,  and  Chances  of 
an  Escape. — The  Texans  going  out  to  labour  in  the  Streets. — More  Play 
than  Work. 

The  hours  after  dinner  dragged  heavily  along,  but 
no  one  called  to  whom  I could  make  known  my  con- 
templated escape.  About  the  middle  of  the  afternoon 
a young  man  named  Bowen,  one  of  Colonel  Cooke’s 
party,  was  brought  to  San  Lazaro  from  Santiago,  very 
ill  with  the  small-pox.  He  was  delirious,  giving  inco- 
herent answers  to  the  different  questions  asked  him. 

Night  finally  set  in,  yet  not  a single  foreigner  made 


A MYSTERIOUS  MOVEMENT. 


271 


his  appearance.  This  was  the  more  remarkable,  as 
several  of  them  had  promised  to  call  upon  me  that  af- 
ternoon. There  appeared  to  be  a strange  fatality  in 
the  circumstance,  that  at  the  very  time  when  I most 
wanted  to  see  the  face  of  a friend,  no  one  came ; but 
there  was  no  help  for  it,  and  I saw  the  door  locked 
with  a heart  made  heavy  by  disappointment.  The 
only  consolation  I had  was,  that  the  same  opportunity 
to  escape  would  probably  be  open  on  the  ensuing  day, 
and  with  this  expectation  I retired  to  my  cot  and  soon 
fell  asleep. 

About  half  past  nine  o’clock  at  night  I was  awakened 
by  a heavy  tramp,  as  of  men  marching  past  me.  On 
opening  my  eyes,  I saw  eight  or  ten  soldiers  paraded 
directly  in  front  of  my  cot,  with  shouldered  muskets. 
Not  a little  astonished  at  a circumstance  so  unusual,  I 
was  about  to  inquire  the  cause,  when  the  officer  in  com- 
mand of  the  party,  after  asking  my  name,  said  I must 
immediately  prepare  to  leave  San  Lazaro. 

I asked  him  whither  I was  to  be  taken,  but  he  gave 
me  no  answer.  There  was  something  mysterious  in 
the  air  of  this  man  that  caused  me  much  uneasiness,  but 
I was  completely  in  his  power  and  could  only  obey  his 
commands.  While  I was  hastily  slipping  on  my  clothes, 
and  packing  my  books  and  other  articles  in  a carpet 
bag,  the  lepers  congregated  about  me  with  not  a little 
astonishment  depicted  in  their  dismal  countenances.  I 
had  formed  a kind  of  distant  intimacy  with  many  of  the 
unfortunate  wretches,  and  their  surprise  was  equal  to 
my  own  on  learning  that  “ Don  Jorge,”  as  they  called 
me,  was  about  to  be  taken  from  San  Lazaro  under  so 
strong  a guard,  and  at  an  hour  so  strange  and  unsea- 
sonable. I thought  of  my  dealings  with  the  pole,  and 
for  a moment  supposed  that  this  unusual  movement 


272 


REMOVAL,  FROM  SAN  LAZARO. 


might  be  caused  by  my  having  been  discovered  in  the 
act ; but  of  this  I was  uncertain. 

After  a few  hasty  preparations,  I told  the  officer  I 
was  ready  to  accompany  him ; but  first  I asked  him  if 
he  would  allow  me  to  ride.  He  immediately  ordered 
his  men  to  bring  in  a litter,  and  pointing  to  it,  told  me 
I could  ride  in  that.  The  litter  had  a vile,  filthy  blan- 
ket in  it,  and  had  evidently  been  used  to  transport  some 
worthless  or  wounded  lepero  to  a hospital  or  dungeon ; 
but  what  gave  me  more  uneasiness  than  ail  were  the 
words  “ Carcel  de  Ciudad ” — city  prison — painted  upon 
its  sides.  That  I was  to  be  taken  to  some  vile  hole, 
and  thrown  alone  among  the  most  worthless  and  aban- 
doned wretches,  was  now  evident  enough,  and  I could 
scarcely  restrain  a shudder  at  the  thought  of  a fate  so 
horrible. 

Again  I asked  the  officer  if  he  would  send  one  of  his 
men  for  a coach,  telling  him  that  I had  money  to  pay 
for  it,  and  that  one  of  my  ankles  was  so  weak  that  I 
was  fearful,  from  not  having  taken  much  exercise  of 
late,  of  its  failure  if  I had  far  to  walk.  He  only  an- 
swered me  by  pointing  to  the  litter.  Determined,  un- 
der no  circumstances,  to  ride  or  be  carried  in  a convey- 
ance so  vile,  I told  him  I would  endeavour  to  walk. 
My  mattress  and  blankets,  which  were  my  own  prop- 
erty, together  with  the  carpet  bag,  were  now  thrown 
into  the  litter,  the  guard  formed  on  either  side  of  me* 
and  amid  the  “ adios”  of  the  poor  lepers,  and  the  kind 
“ farewells”  of  my  companions,  I was  escorted  out  of 
San  Lazaro.  I turned  one  look,  as  I passed  the  thresh- 
old, at  the  companions  of  my  imprisonment,  but  not  a 
gleam  of  hope’s  sunshine  could  I discover  in  their  sor- 
rowful  countenances.  In  moments  of  sudden  trial  or 
peril,  how  much  of  the  mind’s  workings,  how  much  of 


A NIGHT  MARCH. 


273 


the  inward  emotions,  can  be  read  while  hastily  scanning 
the  faces  of  those  around  us.  I keenly  scrutinized  the 
features  of  the  crowd  gathered  at  the  door  to  see  my 
departure — commiseration,  pity,  all  the  kindlier  feelings 
of  man’s  nature  were  there,  but  not  one  glimmering  of 
assurance  as  to  the  fate  that  awaited  me  could  I discov- 
er, no  key  to  unlock  the  mystery  in  which  the  move- 
ments of  my  guard  were  hidden.  With  a heavy  heart 
I bade  the  inmates  of  San  Lazaro  farewell,  and  I doubt 
whether  one  of  them,  either  Mexican  or  Texan,  expect- 
ed ever  to  see  me  again. 

On  reaching  the  front  door  of  the  hospital,  the  officer 
in  command  ordered  a halt.  He  then  took  me  into  the 
small  office  connected  with  the  establishment,  and  gave 
the  major-domo  a receipt  to  the  effect  that  I had  been 
regularly  delivered  into  his  hands.  I once  more  re- 
quested him  to  send  one  of  the  guard  for  a coach — a 
request  which  he  only  answered  by  pointing  to  the  litter. 

Outside  the  hospital,  the  officer  now  formed  his  men, 
some  five  or  six  on  either  side  of  me,  a trumpeter  in  the 
rear,  and  himself  in  front.  In  this  order  we  marched 
from  San  Lazaro,  the  course  taken  leading  directly  to- 
wards the  heart  of  the  city.  For  the  first  four  or  five 
blocks  my  ankle  gave  me  little  or  no  pain,  the  uncer- 
tainty which  shrouded  my  destination  probably  draw- 
ing my  attention  from  all  personal  inconvenience  ; but 
as  we  entered  the  better  portion  of  the  city,  and  were 
leaving  the  low  and  miserable  habitations  which  form 
the  outskirts  of  Mexico,  my  ankle  began  to  give  way 
under  the  unwonted  exercise. 

Two  or  three  times  I asked  the  soldiers  who  were 
marching  next  me  whither  we  were  going : the  eternal 
“ quien  sabe  ?”  was  the  only  answer. 

We  had  nov^  proceeded  some  half  or  three  quarters 


274 


MYSTERY  INCREASING. 


of  a mile  on  our  mysterious  journey,  and  had  entered 
the  better  part  of  the  city,  when  my  ankle  began  to 
pain  me  excessively.  I stopped  for  a moment,  and  in 
eloquent  bad  Spanish  told  the  Mexican  officer  my  sit- 
uation. He  shrugged  his  shoulders,  and  still  pointed  to 
the  filthy  litter,  which  was  borne  by  two  of  his  men. 
Had  my  ankle  been  perfectly  sound  at  this  time,  such 
were  my  feelings,  1 should  most  certainly  have  broken 
through  the  guard  which  surrounded  me,  and  put  the 
chance  of  an  escape  upon  a run,  regardless  of  their 
muskets.  As  it  was,  I could  but  hobble  along,  and  sub- 
mit to  being  guarded,  I knew  not  whither. 

As  we  approached  the  centre  of  the  city,  although  it 
was  nowT  almost  eleven  o’clock  at  night,  we  met  num- 
bers passing.  My  dress  plainly  denoted  that  I was  no 
countryman  of  theirs,  for  I wore  a blanket  coat  I had 
purchased  of  an  American  at  Chihuahua,  and  an  Amer- 
ican hat.  The  sight  of  a foreigner  thus  attired,  and 
thus  strongly  guarded  through  the  streets  at  an  hour  so 
unseasonable,  excited  not  a little  curiosity  in  the  passers- 
by,  and  they  crowded  under  the  lamps  and  peered  in- 
quisitively in  my  face. 

We  passed  several  churches,  and  once  or  twice  we 
were  halted  for  a few  moments  directly  in  front  of 
large  gloomy  edifices,  which  I could  not  but  think  were 
prison-houses.  I was  not  allowed  to  march  upon  the 
sidewalk,  but  was  taken  directly  along  the  middle  of 
the  streets,  where  the  walking  was  rough  and  uneven, 
and  where  my  ankle  was  liable  to  be  strained  or  in- 
jured at  every  step.  Driven  at  length  almost  to  despe- 
ration, not  only  by  pain,  but  by  the  uncertainty  with 
which  I was  surrounded,  I forced  myself  between  two 
of  the  soldiers  who  guarded  me,  and  sat  down  upon  the 
sidewalk  directly  in  front  of  a large  church.  The  offi- 


TAKEN  OUT  OF  THE  CITY. 


275 


cer  ordered  me  to  rise  and  continue  the  march,  but  I 
told  him  I could  walk  no  farther. 

Anxious,  probably,  to  be  relieved  as  soon  as  possible 
of  his  charge,  the  officer  now  consented  to  send  one  of 
his  soldiers  for  a coach  ; and  being  near  one  of  the 
great  coach-stands  of  the  city,  he  soon  returned  with 
the  conveyance  I was  so  much  in  need  of.  I imme- 
diately entered  the  heavy  and  clumsy  vehicle,  the  offi- 
cer following  and  seating  himself  by  my  side.  The 
soldiers  were  then  formed  on  either  side,  and  at  a 
brisk  pace  the  strange  night  march  was  resumed. 

On  several  occasions  the  coach  stopped  for  a mo- 
ment, probably  to  give  the  guard  rest,  and  each  time  I 
scanned  the  buildings  on  either  side  with  an  eager  gaze, 
expecting  to  see  some  dismal  prison.  Had  there  been 
a single  companion  with  me,  for  misery  does  like  com- 
pany, I should  not  have  been  so  oppressed  by  the  sickly 
feelings  I experienced  ; but  I was  alone,  and  could  only 
brood  over  my  singular  and  annoying  situation  in  si- 
lence. 

A half-hour’s  ride  carried  us  almost  entirely  through 
the  city,  and  after  leaving  the  poorer  habitations  of  the 
suburbs,  we  emerged  into  the  open  country.  Passing 
now  and  then  a small  house,  from  which  some  score  of 
noisy  dogs  would  jump  and  bark  at  us,  the  coach  final- 
ly drew  up  in  front  of  a large  and  gloomy  establish- 
ment, walled  in  on  two  of  its  sides,  where  a halt  was 
called.  It  was  now  near  midnight.  I asked  the  offi- 
cer what  building  it  was  ; but  he  was  stepping  from  the 
coach  at  the  time,  and  either  did  not  hear  or  did  not 
heed  my  question. 

I had  hardly  left  the  coach  before  I heard  the  start- 
ling “ centinela  alerta /”  from  a soldier  directly  over 
my  head.  The  cry  was  taken  up  by  another  in  a dif- 


276 


ARRIVAL  AT  A PRISON. 


ferent  part  of  the  building,  then  by  another,  until  at 
length  I could  but  faintly  hear  the  long-drawn-out  and 
to  me  grating  sounds  feebly  echoed  and  re-echoed  from 
the  more  distant  walls  of  the  building.  Around  the 
passage-way  which  led  to  the  establishment,  groups  of 
soldiers,  rolled  up  in  their  cloaks  and  blankets,  were  ly- 
ing asleep,  and  a regular  guard  was  marching  back- 
ward and  forward  in  the  entrance.  I was  soon  taken, 
still  strongly  guarded,  through  the  main  door  of  en- 
trance. Once  Within,  I found  a large  yard,  surrounded 
on  all  sides  by  buildings,  and  by  the  dim  light  of  a lamp 
I could  plainly  read  the  word  castigo  — punishment — 
over  a strong  and  gloomy  door.  In  this  apartment,  I 
at  once  thought  I should  find  a resting-place  ; but  who 
were  to  be  my  companions,  or  what  the  cause  of  my 
imprisonment,  I could  not  imagine. 

Not  a little  overjoyed  was  I when  the  guard,  who 
even  to  this  time  was  stationed  on  either  side  of  me, 
marched  by  this  dreadful  room  and  led  me  up  a flight 
of  stone  steps  on  the  other  side  of  the  yard.  We  now 
groped  our  way  along  a dark  passage,  the  floor  of  stone, 
and  every  footfall  sending  up  a doleful  echo.  Once,  by 
the  dim  light  of  a distant  lantern,  I saw  the  gloomy 
figures  of  two  or  three  monks,  slowly  wending  their 
way  towards  their  silent  cloister,  and  again  all  was 
darkness. 

Groping  his  way  a few  steps  in  advance  of  us,  the 
officer  who  had  me  in  charge  at  length  reached  a small 
door,  at  which  he  knocked.  A female  voice  within 
asked  him  for  the  countersign.  He  gave  it,  the  door 
slowly  opened,  and  I was  ushered  into  a small  but  neat- 
ly-furnished apartment,  having  a guitar  and  several 
pieces  of  music  scattered  about,  while  a sideboard  and 
other  articles  of  furniture  graced  the  sides  of  the  room. 


THE  MYSTERY  SOLVED. 


277 


Two  females  were  present  — one  a lady-like  woman 
some  thirty-five  years  of  age,  the  other  a pretty  girl  of 
not  more  than  sixteen,  and  both  were  undressed  as  if 
just  from  bed.  After  they  had  politely  beckoned  me  to 
a chair,  I asked  the  elder  for  some  water,  which  she 
gave  me  after  inquiring  whether  I would  not  prefer  a 
glass  of  wine.  The  kindness  of  these  women  gave  me 
hope,  which  was  soon  banished,  however,  by  the  en- 
trance, from  another  room,  of  an  elderly  and  grim-vis- 
aged  officer,  apparently  some  sixty  years  of  age.  He 
had  a morose  scowl  upon  his  face,  and  his  upper  lip 
was  decked  with  a pair  of  mustaches  which  might  have 
been  cut  from  a shoe-brush. 

He  asked  my  name,  entered  it  in  a book  which  was 
lying  upon  the  table,  and  after  telling  the  officer  who 
had  charge  of  me  that  all  was  right,  ordered  him,  with 
a cold,  business-like  air,  to  march  off  and  lock  me  up. 
By  a different  passage  I was  now  taken  to  the  yard  be- 
low, and  halted  in  front  of  a large  and  strong  door.  A 
key  was  applied  to  the  lock,  and  wffiile  they  were  slow- 
ly turning  it  I could  plainly  hear  the  clanking  of  chains 
and  the  indistinct  hum  of  voices  within.  This  was  the 
most  trying  moment  of  all,  for  I was  profoundly  igno- 
rant alike  of  the  place  and  of  the  companions  I was  to 
be  associated  with. 

The  door  was  at  length  opened.  A loud  shout  arose 
as  I entered  the  room,  and  my  name  was  called  by  fifty 
voices  in  a breath.  Never  can  I forget  my  own  feel- 
ings when,  with  spirits  but  a few  moments  before  de- 
pressed by  a suspense  the  most  harrowing,  I now  found 
myself  suddenly  and  most  unexpectedly  in  Santiago, 
greeted  by  Colonel  Cooke,  Dr.  Brenham,  Captain  Sut- 
ton, and  the  friends  whom  I had  not  seen  for  seven 

Vol.  II. — A A 


278 


THE  AUTHOR  IN  CHAINS. 


months.  The  prospect  of  chains  and  servitude  was  as 
nothing — I was  among  my  old  companions. 

By  far  the  greater  number  of  the  prisoners  were 
asleep  when  I entered  the  room  ; yet  there  were  some 
twenty  still  awake,  engaged  at  cards  upon  the  stone 
floor,  or  reading  by  the  dim  light  of  Mexican  candles. 
After  half  an  hour’s  conversation  with  my  friends,  I 
spread  my  cot  among  them — a refreshing  sleep  follow- 
ing a day  replete  with  excitement. 

Immediately  after  breakfast  the  next  morning,  the 
Mexican  who  had  charge  of  the  Texan  chain  gang 
politely  requested  me  to  choose  a partner  from  among 
the  prisoners — some  one  to  assist  me  in  carrying  the 
heavy  fetters  which  were  now  to  decorate  one  of  my 
ankles  for  the  first  time.  The  recollection  of  the  fa- 
vourable opportunity  I had  to  escape  from  San  Lazaro 
the  day  before  now  flashed  across  my  mind,  and  I deep- 
ly regretted  that  fate  had  prevented  me  from  improving 
it ; but  as  this  was  no  time  to  speculate  long  on  the 
past,  or  indulge  in  idle  regrets,  I commenced  a survey 
of  my  fellow-prisoners  with  the  intention  of  making  a 
choice.  It  fell  upon  the  veteran  Major  Bennett,  of 
scripture-quoting  memory.  One  end  of  his  chain  was 
vacant,  owing  to  the  sickness  of  his  comrade  at  the 
time  ; but  what  induced  me  more  particularly  to  make 
choice  of  him,  was  a sly  wink  he  gave  me,  and  a side 
speech  to  the  effect  that  he  had  a way  of  ridding  him- 
self of  the  fetters  which  few  of  the  Texans  possessed. 

We  were  now  conducted  to  a small  room,  adjoining 
that  in  which  the  prisoners  were  locked  up  for  the 
night.  Here  an  anvil  had  been  placed  for  the  business, 
and  the  room  was  decorated  with  rings,  rivets,  chains, 
and  other  instruments  of  disgrace.  I slipped  a dollar 
into  the  hands  of  the  Mexican  whose  duty  it  was  to 


JESTING  CONGRATULATIONS. 


279 


fasten  the  trinkets  upon  me.  This  I had  been  advised 
to  do  by  my  friends,  as  it  would  induce  the  fellow, 
either  to  give  me  a ring  so  large  that  I could  slip  it  off, 
or  so  to  fasten  the  rivet  that  I could  remove  it  with  but 
little  difficulty.  The  dollar  had  the  desired  effect,  for 
the  Mexican  selected  a ring  which  I could  easily  remove 
after  taking  off  my  boot. 

With  as  good  a grace  as  I could  assume — for  this 
chaining  a man  excites  any  feelings  but  those  of  a pleas- 
ant nature — I now  submitted  to  the  operation.  The 
chain  was  some  eight  feet  in  length,  extremely  heavy, 
and  of  the  class  used  to  draw  logs  with  oxen — in  other 
words,  a log  chain.  After  cutting  the  straps  from  a 
pair  of  fashionable,  French  pantaloons,  which  I had 
purchased  at  Zacatecas,  I placed  my  foot  upon  the  an- 
vil, and  the  Mexican,  although  well  knowing  that  I 
could  shake  myself  free  with  ease,  hammered  away  and 
made  as  much  noise  as  though  the  chain  was  to  remain 
upon  my  ankle  for  life. 

A knot  of  my  fellow-prisoners  gathered  about  me 
during  the  operation,  and  made  themselves  exceedingly 
facetious  at  my  expense.  One  of  them,  accompanying 
the  remark  with  a shake  of  his  foot  that  made  his  own 
chain  clank  again,  assured  me  that  I should  find  it 
agreeable  enough  after  I got  used  to  it.  Another  said 
it  was  not  half  so  bad  as  pulling  teeth  ; and  still  another 
remarked  that  chaining  one’s  leg  was  far  less  painful  than 
sawing  it  off.  A musical  genius  commenced  hum- 
ming Bruce’s  Address,  laying  emphatic  stress  upon  the 
line 

“ Chains  and  slavery 

while  another  individual,  gifted  slightly  with  vocal  abil- 
ities, essayed  the  ditty  commencing  with 

“ Liberty  for  me.” 


280 


LINKS  OF  FRIENDSHIP. 


Even  Major  Bennett,  although  not  much  given  to  hu- 
morous remarks,  could  not  resist  the  opportunity  of 
being  facetious.  With  a gravity  which  would  have 
become  a graven  image,  he  pretended  to  comfort  me 
with  the  remark  that  we  all  have  our  trials  and  tribula- 
tions, quoted  a verse  from  J ob  to  the  etfect  that  useless 
repining  was  of  little  avail,  and  wound  up  by  saying 
that  the  time  would  yet  come  when  our  bonds  would  all 
be  rent  asunder. 

While  all  this  was  in  progress,  I felt  indignant  enough 
fairly  to  eat  half  a dozen  links  of  the  chain  attached  to 
my  ankle,  but  I still  forced  a laugh,  and  assumed  a 
cheerfulness  of  demeanour  when  I felt  much  more  like 
shedding  tears  from  very  vexation.  Thoughts,  too,  of  an 
escape,  of  an  immediate  escape,  ran  through  my  mind 
with  such  rapidity  that  twenty  half-digested  plans  to  effect 
my  liberty  were  formed  and  abandoned  in  half  as  many 
minutes.  I now  considered  myself  cut  off  from  all  hope 
of  release  through  the  interference  of  my  own  govern- 
ment, and  resolved  to  run  every  risk,  and  go  to  any  ex- 
pense, to  achieve  my  liberation.  In  this  frame  of  mind 
I went  back  to  the  main  room  in  which  the  prisoners 
were  confined,  myself  and  companion  dragging  the 
heavy  chain  after  us.  My  friends  congratulated  me 
upon  my  appearance  in  the  “ trinkets,”  and  one  of 
them,  pointing  to  the  chain,  humorously  remarked  that 
I must  now  feel  bound  to  the  major  by  the  strongest  ties ! 
This  was  on  the  morning  of  the  19th  of  April. 

Up  to  this  time  I haVe  never  been  able  to  fathom  or 
ascertain  Santa  Anna’s  motives  in  having  me  removed 
from  San  Lazaro  to  Santiago.  Clothed  in  mystery  as 
the  movements  of  the  Mexicans  generally  are,  and  de- 
lighting as  they  do  in  a dark  and  covert  policy,  there 
was  something  unusually  strange  in  the  hour  chosen 


RECAPITULATION. 


281 


the  strong  guard  sent  to  secure  my  safe  conduct,  and 
the  fact  that  the  officer  who  commanded  the  guard  ap- 
peared studiously  to  avoid  giving  me  any  clew  as  to 
my  destination. 

But  to  show  my  readers  in  what  a veil  of  mystery 
the  whole  affair  was  shrouded,  I will  here  revert  to  the 
negotiations  which  had  been  pending,  for  the  previous 
three  or  four  days,  in  relation  to  the  liberation  of  my- 
self, and  of  six  other  Americans  who  had  claimed  the 
protection  of  the  United  States  government. 

On  the  1 4th  of  April,  Mr.  Ellis,  who  was  then  short- 
ly to  leave  Mexico,  had  an  interview  with  Santa  Anna 
in  relation  to  the  cases  of  these  seven  Americans.  At 
this  interview,  Santa  Anna  expressed  himself  willing  to 
release  the  prisoners,  but  not  until  certain  acts  of  the 
United  States  were  explained.  He  alluded  to  the  fact 
that  at  that  time  the  U.  S.  frigate  Macedonian  Was  off 
Vera  Cruz,  with  another  American  man-of-war,  and 
said  that  as  soon  as  he  received  information,  from  the 
commandante  at  Vera  Cruz,  that  these  vessels  had  sail- 
ed, he  would  be  pleased  to  give  the  prisoners  up  to  Mr. 
Ellis.  While  the  vessels  remained  he  should  be  pre- 
vented from  releasing  them,  as  rumours  were  prevalent 
in  Mexico  that  the  frigate  brought  a demand  for  the 
prisoners,  and  the  Mexican  public  might  charge  him 
with  being  influenced  by  their  presence  in  granting  a 
release — in  other  words,  with  being  frightened  into  the 
measure.  The  result  of  this  interview,  which  was  con- 
sidered at  the  time  as  very  favourable  to  my  release, 
induced  Mr.  Mayer  to  call  upon  me  early  the  next 
morning  with  the  news — a circumstance  I have  men- 
tioned in  the  previous  chapter. 

On  the  16th  of  April,  two  days  after  this  interview, 
Mr.  Mayer  called  upon  the  Mexican  Minister  of  Foreign 
A a 2 


282 


MEXICAN  PRETEXTS. 


Relations,  Jose  Maria  de  Bocanegra.  This  call  was 
made  about  twelve  o’clock,  at  the  request  of  Mr.  Ellis, 
and  with  the  object  of  ascertaining  the  farther  action 
of  the  Mexican  government  upon  the  subject  of  our  re- 
lease. M.  de  Bocanegra  informed  Mr.  Mayer  that  he 
could  not  tell  him  at  what  time  the  prisoners  would  be 
set  at  liberty,  as  intelligence  of  a very  disagreeable  na- 
ture had  just  been  received  by  the  government,  which 
might  influence  the  mind  of  Santa  Anna ; but  in  the 
mean  time  the  minister  requested  Mr.  Mayer  to  call 
upon  him  again  the  same  evening,  when  he  might  ex- 
pect a more  definite  answer  upon  the  subject. 

About  five  o’clock  Mr.  M.  called  again  at  the  Foreign 
Office,  when  M.  de  Bocanegra  enumerated  five  points 
of  difficulty  as  to  carrying  into  immediate  effect  the 
promise  made  by  Santa  Anna,  on  the  14th,  to  Mr.  Ellis. 
I give  these  points  as  they  were  taken  down  in  writing 
by  Mr.  M.,  thinking  they  may  interest  some  of  my 
readers : 

First.  That  young  Combs  had  armed,  and  was  at  the 
head  of,  a body  of  hostile  persons,  under  the  name  of 
emigrants,  advancing  upon  Mexico. 

Second.  That  a Mr.  Spencer  had  been  sent  from  the 
United  States,  with  despatches  to  Texas,  and  that  im- 
mediately afterward,  and  in  strange  coincidence,  the 
Texan  blockade  of  the  eastern  coast  of  Mexico  had 
been  proclaimed. 

Third.  That  Texas  had  proclaimed  this  blockade. 

Fourth.  That  all  the  vessels  of  war  had  not  yetjeft 
Vera  Cruz. 

Fifth.  That  the  publications  in  the  papers  of  the  Uni- 
ted States  against  Mexico  were  most  unfriendly,  inflam- 
matory, and  hostile. 

Not  thinking  it  his  duty  to  enter  into  an  argument 


EVASIVE  DIPLOMACY. 


283 


upon  these  points,  Mr.  Mayer  asked  M.  de  Bocanegra 
whether  the  legation  of  the  United  States  should  con- 
sider the  negotiations  in  regard  to  the  release  of  the 
seven  prisoners  as  terminated.  The  minister  replied 
that  they  were  not  to  be  considered  terminated.  Mr. 
Mayer  then  wished  to  know  whether  the  legation  should 
consider  the  Mexican  government  as  having  withdrawn 
its  word  as  to  the  release  of  the  prisoners.  The  minis- 
ter answered  that  such  was  not  to  be  the  interpretation 
— that  his  own  government  did  not  withdraw  its  word, 
but  only  “ suspended P’  its  operation  upon  the  question — 
in  short,  that  the  “ suspension”  should  only  be  moment- 
ary. Those  acquainted  with  the  artful,  evasive,  and 
temporizing  policy  of  a skilful  Mexican  diplomatist  may 
readily  conceive  that  this  “ momentary  suspension”  might 
be  spun  out  to  ten  years — and  in  this  light  I believe  it 
was  viewed  by  those  who  were  acquainted  with  the 
circumstances.  At  all  events,  I judged,  from  the  tone  of 
such  friends  as  called  upon  me  the  day  after  this  inter- 
view, that  my  chance  of  release  was  as  hopeless  as 
ever,  and  this  opinion  induced  me  to  attempt  an  escape 
over  the  walls  of  San  Lazaro  on  the  Monday  following. 

At  the  very  time  that  I was  thus  contemplating  an 
escape,  and  while  I was  anxiously  awaiting  the  arrival 
of  some  friend  at  San  Lazaro  who  would  assist  me,  Mr. 
Ellis  was  holding  an  interview  with  the  ministers  de 
Bocanegra  and  Trigeros  at  the  Treasury  Department. 
At  this  interview  Mr.  E.  answered  the  jive  points  which 
had  caused  the  “ suspension”  of  our  release,  as  follows  : 

First.  That  he  had  positive  information  that  Combs 
had  gone  home  with  his  father  from  New-Orleans  to 
Kentucky,  and  was  not  engaged  in  the  Texan  war  upon 
Mexico. 

Second.  That  Spencer  was  not  a bearer  of  despatch- 


284 


THE  RESULT. 


es  from  the  government  of  the  United  States  to  Texas  ; 
but  had  used  the  title  (as  was  rumoured)  to  protect  him- 
self from,  or  to  evade,  charges  affecting  him  personally. 

Third.  That  the  United  States  had  no  part,  influence, 
or  concern,  in  the  Texan  blockade,  and,  moreover,  that 
if  the  government  he  represented  entertained  hostile  de- 
signs upon  Mexico  (which  it  did  not),  they  would  be 
manifested  openly  by  our  own  forces,  and  not  secretly, 
through  the  navy  of  another  power. 

Fourth.  That  all  the  vessels  of  war  of  the  United 
States  had  actually  left  Vera  Cruz. 

Fifth.  That  the  prints  of  the  United  States  were  free 
• — not  under  the  control  of  the  government — and  not  the 
organs  of  its  opinions. 

In  answer  to  this,  M.  de  Bocanegra  wished  Mr.  El- 
lis distinctly  to  understand  that  the  promise  of  Mexico, 
for  the  release  of  myself  and  the  six  other  Americans, 
was  given — it  was  an  act  concluded — and  its  operation 
only  momentarily  suspended.  He  farther  stated,  that 
he  would  immediately  see  Santa  Anna,  and  hoped  the 
conversation  he  had  just  held  with  Mr.  E.  would  so  far 
satisfy  the  President  as  to  induce  him  to  order  the  re- 
lease of  the  prisoners  previous  to  Mr.  Ellis’s  departure 
from  Mexico,  and  that  they  might  then  accompany  him 
to  the  United  States. 

From  all  this  it  would  seem  that  my  release  had  been 
fully  and  finally  determined  upon,  to  take  place  imme- 
diately ; yet  but  a few  hours  afterward,  and  late  at  night, 
I was  escorted  from  San  Lazaro  under  a strong  guard, 
and  under  circumstances  the  most  annoying  and  mys- 
terious, and  taken  to  Santiago.  It  could  hardly  be  for 
my  better  security,  and  it  would  seem  almost  impossible 
that  any  person  had  seen  me  removing  the  pole  in  the 
hospital  yard  of  San  Lazaro ; whence  I can  only  con- 


NOT  LONG  IN  CHAINS. 


285 


jecture  that  the  whole  proceeding  was  the  result  of  one 
of  those  capricious  impulses  which  appear  to  govern  the 
conduct  of  Santa  Anna.  Perhaps  he  thought  he  had 
not  already  punished  me  enough,  was  anxious  to  make 
the  most  of  the  short  time  I was  still  to  be  in  his  power, 
and  therefore  sent  me  to  Santiago  to  give  me  a taste  of 
life  in  chains. 

The  floor  of  our  room  at  this  old  convent  was  of 
stone,  and  in  the  way  of  furniture  we  had  neither  chairs, 
tables,  nor  beds.  After  receiving  the  congratulations 
of  my  friends,  upon  my  first  appearance  in  fetters,  I 
threw  myself  upon  a blanket  in  that  quarter  of  the  pris- 
on which  had  been  appropriated  by  Colonel  Cooke  and 
Dr.  Brenham.  The  latter  immediately  began  scratch- 
ing the  earth  from  the  chinks  between  two  stones,  and 
soon  drew  forth  a small  file  which  had  been  secreted 
there.  This  he  gave  me,  with  directions  for  filing  the 
rivet  that  secured  the  chain  to  my  ankle.  I told  him 
that  a small  bribe  had  procured  for  me  a ring,  which  I 
could  easily  enough  slip  over  my  foot  when  night  came. 
While  this  conversation  was  going  on,  old  Major  Ben- 
nett quietly  released  himself  from  his  end  of  the  chain, 
and  stalked  off  to  a corner  to  peruse  some  book  upon 
which  he  was  at  the  time  engaged. 

I was  now  initiated  into  some  of  the  “ secrets  of  the 
prison-house.”  The  old  commandante  of  the  guard — 
the  same  person  into  whose  quarters  I had  been  taken 
the  night  before,  and  who  had  registered  my  name  in 
the  presence  of  the  women — was  tyrannical  and  over- 
bearing in  his  disposition,  and  used  his  best  exertions  to 
keep  the  prisoners  continually  in  chains.  The  younger 
officers  of  the  guard,  however,  were  many  of  them  gen- 
erous and  kind-hearted  to  a fault,  and  not  only  furnish- 
ed our  officers  with  files  with  which  to  rid  themselves 


286 


SANTA  ANNA  AND  THE  BLACKSMITH. 


of  their  irons  during  the  night,  but  also  winked  at  any 
trifling  violation  of  orders,  and  allowed  them  to  move 
about  without  the  “ trinkets”  during  the  day — only  re- 
questing them  to  avoid  being  seen  by  the  old  com- 
mandante.  The  latter  seldom  visited  the  prisoners 
more  than  once  during  the  day ; and  as  there  was  al- 
ways some  one  of  them  to  give  warning  of  his  approach, 
the  chains  were  apparently  “ all  right  and  tight”  when- 
ever he  entered  our  quarters. 

Every  morning  a blacksmith  from  the  city  was  sent 
to  examine  and  fasten  the  chains  upon  each  prisoner ; 
yet  such  adepts  had  the  latter  become  at  “ working  in 
iron,”  that  while  the  knight  of  the  anvil  was  securing 
one  couple,  the  pair  who  had  just  passed  through  his 
hands  were  very  likely  loose  from  their  fetters,  and 
performing  various  antics  and  exchanging  significant 
nods  at  the  old  fellow’s  expense  behind  his  back. 

The  blacksmith,  it  was  said,  received  twelve  and  a 
half  cents  for  each  rivet  he  fastened,  and  as  every 
morning  he  found  nearly  all  of  them  loose,  the  job  was 
an  extremely  profitable  one  for  him.  A good  story 
was  told — having,  probably,  as  much  foundation  in 
truth  as  the  thousand  and  one  legends  and  traditions  by 
which  the  Mexican  population  is  gulled — of  an  inter- 
view the  old  blacksmith  had  one  morning  with  Santa 
Anna.  The  latter  had  noticed  that  a heavy  bill  was 
paid  daily  for  fastening  the  chains  of  the  intractable 
Texans,  and  questioned  the  blacksmith  as  to  the  cause. 
He  made  answer  that  the  Texans  were  difficult  people 
to  deal  with,  and  had  strange  ways  that  he  could  not 
understand.  Santa  Anna  asked  him  how  it  was  that 
while  the  simple  fastening  of  a chain  upon  the  ankle  of 
a Mexican  was  sufficient  to  secure  him  for  a twelve- 
month,  without  putting  the  government  to  farther  ex- 


A FALSE  ALARM. 


287 


pense,  a Texan  was  sure  to  rid  himself  of  the  same 
irons  once  in  every  twenty-four  hours.  This  was  a 
question  the  blacksmith  was  entirely  unable  to  answer, 
farther  than  by  informing  his  Excellency,  the  Provis- 
ional President,  that  “ while  he  was  busily  engaged, 
with  hammer  and  anvil,  securing  one  Texan,  his  com- 
rade at  the  other  end  of  the  chain,  and  whom  he  had 
but  just  operated  upon,  not  only  worked  himself  free, 
but  very  likely  did  so  at  him  /”  This  latter  movement 
of  the  Texan  the  blacksmith  explained  to  Santa  Anna 
by  putting  his  right  thumb  to  his  nose,  and  then  per- 
forming certain  well-known  and  fanciful  gyrations  with 
his  fingers.  As  the  story  ran,  which  was  of  course  a 
fabrication  of  some  wag  among  the  prisoners,  the  Pres- 
ident and  the  blacksmith,  profoundly  ignorant  of  the 
meaning  of  a movement  so  mysterious,  came  to  the 
conclusion  that  the  Texans  had  dealings  with  the  prince 
of  darkness,  and  that  it  was  labour  lost  to  attempt  to 
secure  them  farther.  At  all  events,  the  blacksmith  sud- 
denly ceased  his  morning  visits,  and  from  that  time  un- 
til the  Texans  were  liberated  they  were  only  submitted 
to  an  occasional  visitation  from  the  Mexican  who  had 
charge  of  the  parties  sent  into  the  streets  to  work. 

The  reader  may  recollect  that  on  the  night  when  I 
was  escorted  from  San  Lazaro  to  Santiago,  and  while 
the  guard  who  accompanied  me  were  unlocking  the 
door  of  the  room  in  which  the  prisoners  in  the  latter 
place  were  confined,  I mentioned  hearing  a rattling  and 
clanking  of  chains.  It  arose  from  the  circumstance 
that  the  prisoners  thought  the  old  commandante  wag 
paying  them  a night  visit,  and  on  this  supposition  they 
commenced  fastening  their  chains  with  all  possible  de- 
spatch. Upon  seeing  me  enter  the  room,  they  shook 
them  off  with  even  greater  celerity. 


288 


CONVENT  OF  SANTIAGO. 


With  the  fastening  of  irons  upon  my  ankle  went  all 
hope  of  my  being  released  by  Santa  Anna.  I could  not 
conceive  it  possible,  after  subjecting  me  to  this  dis- 
grace, that  he  had  the  most  remote  intention  of  giving 
me  liberty,  and  accordingly  made  up  my  mind  at  once 
to  attempt  an  escape.  I openly  told  my  friends  that  I 
would  not  remain  in  Santiago  a week,  let  the  risk  bq 
what  it  might,  and  deeply  was  I vexed  when  I recalled 
to  mind  the  many  unimproved  opportunities  to  escape 
that  had  presented  themselves. 

Here  I will  attempt  a description  of  the  convent  in 
which  we  were  confined.  It  was  originally  intended 
for  a religious  establishment,  and  some  ten  or  fifteen 
monks  still  dwelt  within  its  walls.  The  front  entrance 
was  through  a narrow  passage-way,  having  heavy  doors 
on  the  outer  and  inner  sides,  which  were  both  closed  at 
night.  In  this  passage-way  many  of  the  soldiers  forming 
our  guard  slept.  It  led  into  a large  yard,  having  heavy 
stone  buildings  on  each  side,  and  a fountain  of  excellent 
water  in  the  centre.  The  prisoners  occupied  rooms  on 
two  sides  of  the  square  below,  the  other  rooms  being 
used  as  a kitchen,  apartments  for  storing,  q hospital, 
and  a room  in  which  mass  was  said  on  Sundays.  The 
upper  stories  were  occupied  by  the  monks,  by  the  com- 
mandante  and  his  family,  and  by  a number  of  crippled, 
invalid,  and  aged  soldiers,  veterans  in  the  Mexican  ser- 
vice. Outside  of  the  building,  on  the  side  next  the  city, 
was  the  balcony  from  which  Lieutenant  Lubbock  and 
the  Frenchman  Mazur  had  jumped  when  they  made 
their  escape,  but  the  entrance  to  this  balcony  from 
within  had  been  immediately  walled  up  to  prevent  oth- 
ers from  following  in  their  footsteps.  On  the  same 
side,  a flight  of  stairs  led  from  the  second  story  to  a 
garden  below,  in  which  the  monks  walked  or  worked 


PROBABILITIES  OF  ESCAPE. 


289 


daring  the  day.  This  garden  was  surrounded  by  a low 
wall,  which  would  have  offered  but  a slight  impediment 
to  an  escape ; but  a soldier  was  constantly  stationed  at 
the  door  leading  to  the  garden,  to  prevent  others  than 
the  monks  from  passing  in  or  out. 

There  was  a passage-way  in  the  rear,  corresponding 
with  that  which  led  into  the  yard  in  front,  but  its  doors 
were  kept  continually  locked.  This  passage  led,  I be- 
lieve, to  a walled  enclosure  in  which  thousands  of  the 
victims  of  cholera  were  buried  in  1833.  The  back  part 
of  our  room  was  destitute  of  windows,  and  the  walls 
were  extremely  thick,  so  that  there  was  no  hope  of  es’ 
cape  that  way.  The  only  means,  therefore,  of  getting 
away  from  Santiago  with  any  probability  of  success, 
were  either  to  bribe  the  guard  stationed  at  the  front  en- 
trance ; to  procure  false  keys  for  the  doors  leading  to 
the  rear,  in  which  case  we  should  also  have  been  com- 
pelled to  bribe  the  sentinel  at  the  door  of  our  room  ; or 
to  walk  out  of  the  door  leading  to  the  garden  in  open 
daylight,  and  in  the  disguise  of  a monk.  The  latter 
would  have  required  no  associate  within  the  walls, 
either  Texan  or  Mexican,  and  I resolved  to  undertake 
it,  should  no  more  feasible  plan  offer.  I should  have 
taken  holy  clothes,  not  holy  orders,  for  a short  time,  or, 
in  other  words,  procured  a monk’s  gown  and  cowl  from 
some  one  of  my  friends.  Then,  by  cutting  off  whis- 
kers and  mustaches,  of  which  I had  cultivated  a liberal 
quantity  for  the  express  purpose  of  disguising  myself ; 
by  also  shaving  the  top  of  my  head  in  imitation  of  the 
holy  brotherhood,  and  putting  the  gown  and  cowl  over 
my  other  dress,  I could  have  passed  out  for  a respect- 
able monk — at  all  events,  I should  have  tried  the  experi- 
ment in  case  other  plans  failed. 

I had  not  been  in  irons  an  hour  before  Dr.  Brenham 

Vol.  II. — B B 


290 


GOING  OUT  TO  WORK. 


and  myself,  with  one  of  the  Texan  officers,  had  deter- 
mined upon  sounding  some  of  our  guard  as  to  whether 
they  would  pass  us  out  in  the  night  for  a liberal  sum  of 
money.  Young  Sully,  one  of  the  Texans  who  spoke 
Spanish,  wras  also  let  into  the  secret,  and  would  have 
ventured  with  us  had  the  attempt  been  made.  Sully 
was  the  interpreter  of  the  prisoners,  and  from  constant 
communication  with  the  guard  knew  every  officer  and 
soldier  belonging  to  it.  He  had  frequently  hinted  the 
subject  of  an  escape  to  some  of  them,  and  from  their 
answers  felt  confident  that  one  hundred  dollars  would 
open  every  door  in  the  Convent  of  Santiago.  Having 
thus  made  up  our  minds  to  escape,  we  all  awaited,  with 
not  a little  impatience,  a favourable  opportunity  to  carry 
some  one  of  our  plans  into  effect. 

At  eight  o’clock  in  the  morning  the  Mexican  having 
charge  of  the  prisoners  who  worked  in  the  streets  made 
his  appearance,  with  orders  for  them  to  be  in  readiness. 
I had  expected  that  Santa  Anna  would  impose  street 
duty  upon  me  also,  and  compel  me  to  work  it  out ; but 
in  this  I was  agreeably  disappointed. 

It  was  really  amusing  to  see  the  Texans  setting  out 
for  their  morning’s  work.  The  orders  from  headquar- 
ters were,  that  all  should  be  sent  into  the  streets  ; but  it 
was  easy  enough  to  avoid  it  by  feigning  sickness.  The 
larger  portion  preferred  the  fresh  air  and  exercise  outside 
the  walls  to  the  confinement  and  closeness  within,  going 
to  their  labour  with  joyous  laughs  which  contrasted 
strangely  with  the  clanking  of  their  chains.  The  latter 
they  cared  little  for.  Their  limbs  were  fettered,  but 
their  minds  were  free  ; and  a moment’s  reflection  taught 
them,  however  much  they  might  have  been  annoyed  at 
first,  that  they  had  committed  no  act  which  as  men 
they  could  be  ashamed  of,  and  consequently  their  chains 


FARE  OF  THE  PRISONERS. 


291 


were  no  disgrace.  As  to  the  work  they  did,  it  was  all 
a mere  farce  : there  was  not  one  of  them  but  could  have 
performed  the  labour  of  a day  in  fifteen  minutes  by 
using  mere  ordinary  exertion. 


CHAPTER  XV. 

Fare  of  the  Texans  in  Santiago. — Their  Companions  at  Puebla  not  as  well 
treated. — The  Latter  compelled  to  work  and  associate  with  Mexican  Mal- 
efactors.— Anecdote  of  the  Old  Commandante  of  Santiago. — The  Texans 
achieve  a decided  Victory  over  their  Oppressor. — The  Puebla  Prisoners  at 
their  Tricks. — Attending  Mass  in  Chains. — Mad  Pranks  of  the  Texans  in 
Church. — Additional  Ceremonies  ingrafted  upon  the  Catholic  Ritual. — 
The  Reader  taken  back  to  Santiago. — Foreign  Visiters. — Farther  Thoughts 
of  escaping. — Action  of  General  Thompson  in  my  Behalf. — The  Foreign 
Policy  of  the  United  States  — Its  Weakness  and  Inefficiency.  — Santa 
Anna  “ Laughing  in  his  Sleeve.”' — Plan  to  bribe  our  Guard  at  Santiago. — 
Evening  Amusements  of  the  Prisoners. — Major  Bennett  and  his  Bible. — 
Agreeable  Soirees. — Character  of  the  Anglo-Saxon  Race  under  Misfortune. 
— Anticipation  worse  than  Reality. — The  Texans  taken  to  their  Morning 
Work. — Reasons  for  Slighting  the  Author.^-More  Visiters  at  Santiago. — 
Advised  to  defer  an  Escape. — Preparations  for  celebrating  the  Anniversary 
of  the  Battle  of  San  Jacinto. — The  Texans  at  their  Work. — Experiments 
as  to  the  smallest  possible  Amount  of  Labour  a Man  can  perform  when  he 
exerts  himself. — The  Mexicans  Outwitted. — Decorations  of  our  Room. — 
San  Jacinto  and  Patriotism. — The  Texans  at  their  Celebration. — Close  of 
the  Anniversary. 

The  prisoners  in  the  Convent  of  Santiago  were  com- 
paratively well  fed — far  better  than  were  their  unfor- 
tunate comrades  at  either  Puebla  or  Perote,  as  I after- 
ward ascertained.  At  Santiago,  a pint  of  very  good 
coffee  was  given  to  each  man  in  the  morning,  with  a 
dish  of  well-cooked  frijoles  and  as  much  bread  as  he 
wanted.  The  latter  was  white,  sweet,  and  brought  to 
us  fresh,  the  Mexicans  being  famous  for  the  rare  quality 
of  their  bread.  For  dinner,  which  was  cooked  by  some 


292 


WOB.SE  TREATED  AT  PUEBLA. 


of  our  own  men,  we  had  beef,  rice,  and  vegetables,  the 
former  of  inferior  quality,  as  the  cattle  in  the  vicinity  of 
Mexico  are  seldom  fat.  There  was  an  abundance  of 
everything,  however,  and  seldom  are  prisoners  of  war 
better  treated,  as  far  as  regards  eating,  than  were  the 
Texans  at  the  city  of  Mexico. 

At  Puebla  the  case  was  said  to  be  widely  different,  a 
niggardly  economy  prevailing  in  the  commissariat.  As 
regards  clothing,  too,  the  prisoners  at  Santiago  were 
infinitely  better  provided  for  than  their  comrades  at 
Puebla,  for  while  the  former  were  neatly  and  comforta- 
bly clad— I believe  by  the  chief  magistrate  of  the  city 
of  Mexico — the  latter  received  little  raiment  other  than 
that  supplied  to  them  by  foreigners.  They  were  con- 
fined, too,  at  the  Presidio,  in  the  same  patio  or  court- 
yard with  two  or  three  hundred  of  the  vilest  malefac- 
tors, and  at  first  were  even  chained  to  them — a Mexi- 
can and  Texan  at  either  end  of  a long  and  heavy  chain : 
but  from  some  cause  they  were  afterward  separated, 
and  the  Texans  confined  together  by  the  same  fetters. 
The  Puebla  prisoners  were  also  sent  into  the  streets 
under  most  oppressive  taskmasters,  and,  in  company 
with  the  lowest  Mexican  felons  and  malefactors,  com- 
pelled to  clean  the  streets,  gutters,  and  filthy  sewers  of 
the  city,  besides  undergoing  other  trials  even  more  de- 
grading. 

Not  so  at  Santiago.  The  old  commandante,  one 
morning,  ordered  the  Texans  to  perform  some  debasing 
work,  which  they  at  once  and  peremptorily  refused  to 
engage  in.  A second  time  they  were  commanded  to 
the  task,  but  still  they  persisted  in  the  stand  they  had 
taken.  Driven  almost  to  madness,  the  ill-natured  offi- 
cer next  ordered  such  of  them  as  refused  the  disgracing 
labour  to  step  a few  paces  forward,  at  the  same  time 


THE  COMMANDANTE  FOILED. 


293 


muttering  dark  threats  against  such  as  should  venture 
from  the  ranks.  To  his  utter  dismay,  every  man  bold- 
ly stepped  forward,  determined  to  be  shot  at  once 
rather  than  obey  his  orders.  The  old  commandante 
fumed,  fretted,  and  swore,  and  threatened  to  send  an 
account  of  their  refractory  conduct  to  Santa  Anna  him- 
self, but  all  to  no  purpose — the  Texans  were  united  and 
determined  in  the  stand  they  had  taken.  This  was  the 
last  time  they  were  called  upon  to  perform  any  vile 
office.  The  commandante  really  sent  a report  of  the 
transaction  to  the  functionary  who  was  at  that  time  the 
principal  magistrate  or  mayor  of  the  city  ; but  the  pris- 
oners forwarded  another  account  of  it  to  the  same  per- 
sonage, in  which  they  declared  their  willingness  to  la- 
bour, but  boldly  added  that  they  would  be  coerced  to 
no  debasing  work.  The  magistrate,  whose  name  I 
have  forgotten,  but  whom  all  the  prisoners  must  recol- 
lect as  a gentlemanly  and  liberal  man,  admitted  the  jus- 
tice of  their  conduct,  and  gave  orders  that  they  should 
never  be  called  upon  to  perform  such  offices  as  the 
commandante  had  endeavoured  to  exact  from  them. 
Here  was  a decided  victory  gained  over  their  oppres- 
sor, and  the  Texans  improved  it  in  such  a way  that  the 
old  and  ill-natured  fellow  was  sorry  he  had  ever  crossed 
them. 

One  would  suppose  the  indignities  and  hardships 
heaped  upon  the  prisoners  at  Puebla  would  break  their 
spirits  ; but  such  was  not  the  case — nothing  could  sub- 
due their  natural  buoyancy  of  disposition.  Many  and 
amusing  were  the  stories  related  of  the  fun  and  frolic 
they  were  continually  getting  up”  among  themselves, 
and  the  tricks  and  jokes  they  perpetrated  whenever  an 
opportunity  occurred.  The  wags  who  were  instru- 
mental in  convening  the  mirthful  courts  at  San  Cristo- 
B b 2 


294 


GOING  TO  MASS. 


bal  were  still  among  them,  ever  ready  to  extract  laugh- 
ter let  what  would  happen.  One  anecdote  I will  re- 
late— a story  which  is  entirely  too  good  to  be  lost. 

Every  Sunday  morning,  the  prisoners  confined  at 
Puebla  were  compelled  to  attend  mass,  in  chains,  at 
one  of  the  churches.  The  floors  of  all  the  religious 
establishments  of  note  in  Mexico  are  of  stone  or  marble, 
without  seats  of  any  kind,  and  those  in  attendance  must 
either  kneel  or  stand  during  the  ceremonies.  In  the 
present  instance,  the  Texans  were  paraded  in  rows  be- 
fore the  altar,  and  compelled  to  fall  upon  their  knees 
while  mass  was  said ; but  they  were  not  obliged  to  go 
through  all  the  little  forms  and  ceremonies  which  the 
Catholic  Church  in  Mexico  exacts  of  its  votaries,  such 
as  crossing  themselves,  smiting  their  breasts,  and  other 
outward  observances.  Well  drilled,  however,  were 
they  in  all  the  minutiae  of  these  demonstrations,  and  in 
addition  one  of  the  jokers,  who  had  acted  as  the  pros- 
ecuting attorney  at  San  Cristobal,  and  who  was  a great 
mimic,  taught  them  a few  original  “ extras”  and  “ fancy 
touches,”  which  he  had  ingrafted  upon  the  regular  Cath- 
olic ceremonials.  So  well  had  he  disciplined  his  broth- 
er prisoners,  that  they  could  go  through  all  his  ritual 
with  as  much  promptness  and  precision  as  could  the 
best  military  company  in  existence  go  through  its  sim- 
plest manoeuvres. 

On  arriving  at  the  church,  and  after  kneeling  in  front 
of  the  altar,  the  well-drilled  Texans  awaited  the  usual 
signal  from  the  officiating  priest  to  commence.  There 
probably  was  not  a Catholic  among  them  ; yet  the  as- 
sumed air  of  grave  devotion  to  be  seen  in  their  faces 
would  have  done  credit  to  the  most  rigid  of  that  creed. 
At  the  given  signal,  and  at  the  proper  time,  the  chained 
prisoners  would  cross  themselves  with  all  seeming  hu- 


EXTRA  OBSERVANCES. 


295 


mility,  closely  imitating  every  motion  of  the  priest  and 
of  the  Mexicans  around  them  ; but  instead  of  stopping 
with  their  Catholic  neighbours,  they  wound  up  by  pla- 
cing the  right  thumb  to  the  tip  of  their  noses,  and  then, 
with  a mock  gravity  which  might  have  drawn  a smile 
from  an  Egyptian  mummy,  circled  the  fingers  about, 
and  all  this  directly  in  the  face  of  the  officiating  priest, 
and  without  a smile  upon  their  countenances.  When 
the  proper  time  came  for  again  crossing  themselves, 
the  mischievous  leader  of  the  Texans  would  pass  the 
word  for  his  men  to  “ come  the  double  compound  ac- 
tion,” as  he  called  it.  This  resembled  the  first  move- 
ment, with  the  exception  that  it  was  more  complicated 
and  more  mysterious  to  the  surrounding  Mexicans.  Af- 
ter the  right  hand  had  gone  its  usual  round,  from  fore- 
head to  breast  and  from  shoulder  to  shoulder,  the  thumb 
again  settled  on  the  tip  of  the  nose ; but  this  time  the 
left  thumb  was  joined  to  the  little  finger  of  the  right 
hand,  and  then  commenced  a series  of  fancy  gyrations 
with  all  the  fingers,  the  like  of  which  was  probably 
never  before  seen  in  a Catholic  church.  Sam  Weller, 
I believe,  or  if  not  he,  some  modern  philosopher  of  his 
school,  defines  the  movement  I have  just  described  as 
meaning  something  like  “ This  may  be  all  very  true, 
but  we  don’t  believe  a word  of  it.”  What  the  Mexi- 
cans thought  of  it,  or  whether  they  noticed  it  or  not,  I 
am  unable  to  say : it  may  be  that  they  considered  it  as 
simply  “a  way”  the  Texans  had,  and  thought  no  more 
of  it.  Such  is  the  story  told  of  the  pranks  played  by 
the  prisoners  confined  in  Puebla. 

During  the  first  day  of  my  imprisonment  at  Santiago 
we  were  visited  by  numbers  of  foreigners,  all  manifest- 
ing not  a little  astonishment  at  seeing  me  there,  and  in 
irons.  They  had  not  even  heard  of  my  being  removed 


296 


PROCEEDINGS  OF  GENERAL  THOMPSON. 


from  San  Lazaro,  and  promised  to  inform  Mr.  Ellis  and 
General  Thompson  of  the  circumstance  as  soon  as  they 
returned  to  the  city.  I told  them,  one  and  all,  that  I 
would  not  remain  in  the  place  a week,  let  the  risk  be 
what  it  might,  and  even  requested  one  of  them  to  smug- 
gle me  in  a monk’s  habit,  that  I might  have  everything 
in  readiness  should  a favourable  opportunity  occur  of 
escaping  in  that  disguise  through  the  garden.  Our 
friends  left  after  a short  visit,  and  the  rest  of  the  day  I 
passed  in  dragging  my  chain  over  the  stone  floor,  and 
in  waiting,  with  not  a little  impatience,  the  return  of 
Sully,  who  was  in  the  street  with  the  men.  I was  anx- 
ious to  know  his  success  in  tampering  with  the  guard. 

Among  the  Americans  who  visited  us  during  the 
forenoon  was  Mr.  Perrin.  On  returning  to  the  city,  he 
at  once  communicated  the  fact  of  my  being  in  Santiago, 
and  in  irons,  to  General  Thompson.  The  latter  had  not 
yet  been  duly  received  as  the  accredited  minister  of  the 
United  States,  but  he  promptly  interested  himself  in  my 
behalf  by  calling  immediately  at  the  residence  of  Mr. 
Ellis  and  informing  him  of  the  facts,  expressing  not  a 
little  astonishment  and  indignation  at  the  strange  and 
uncalled-for  conduct  of  the  Mexican  government.  Here 
I will  give  an  extract  from  General  Thompson’s  official 
letter  to  Mr.  Webster,  narrating  the  circumstance  of 
his  visit  to  Mr.  Ellis,  which  I find  published  in  the  Mad- 
isonian of  the  30th  of  June,  1842  : 

“ On  my  arrival  in  Mexico  I was  informed,  and  after- 
ward learned  from  Mr.  Ellis,  that  on  the  14th  of  April, 
two  days  before  my  arrival  in  this  city,  and  when  I 
was  hourly  expected,  he  had  an  interview  with  the 
President,  Santa  Anna,  and  had  been  promised  the  re- 
lease of  the  American  prisoners.  Mr.  Ellis  told  me,  at 
the  same  time,  he  had  no  hope  of  the  fulfilment  of  this 


GENERAL  THOMPSON’S  CORRESPONDENCE.  297 

promise.  It  was  natural  that  Mr.  Ellis  should  desire 
these  prisoners  to  be  released  to  him,  and  not  to  me  ; 
and  as  I thought  the  Mexican  authorities  would  prefer 
that  the  matter  should  take  this  course,  I was  disposed 
to  aid  Mr.  Ellis  in  his  negotiations  by  every  means  in 
my  power — the  liberation  of  the  prisoners  being  the 
primary  object.  On  Tuesday,  the  19th,  I was  not  a 
little  surprised  to  learn  that  Mr.  Kendall  had  been  re- 
moved from  the  hospital  of  San  Lazaro  to  the  Convent 
of  Santiago,  and  for  the  first  time  put  in  chains.  I im- 
mediately went  to  the  office  of  Mr.  Ellis,  and  proposed 
that  he  should  write  a note  to  the  Minister  of  Foreign 
Relations,  or  that  we  should  address  to  him  a joint  note 
on  the  subject.  He  declined  doing  so,  saying  that  he 
had  seen  the  minister  the  day  before,  and  that  he  did 
not  think  any  good  would  result.  I told  him  I thought 
the  subsequent  placing  of  Mr.  Kendall  in  irons  justified 
and  demanded  it,  and  immediately  addressed  to  M.  de 
Bocanegra  the  note  No.  5.” 

I will  also  give  extracts  from  General  Thompson’s 
letter  to  M.  de  Bocanegra,  referred  to  at  the  close  of 
the  passage  just  quoted.  M.  de  B.,  it  should  be  re- 
membered, was  at  that  time  the  Mexican  Minister  of 
Foreign  Relations.  Tins  letter,  I believe,  was  written 
at  the  room  of  Mr.  Ellis,  and  was  despatched  immedi- 
ately to  M.  de  Bocanegra.  It  is  dated  “ Mexico,  April 
19,  1842,”  bears  the  signature  of  General  Thompson 
alone,  and  appeared  originally  in  the  same  number  of 
the  Madisonian : 

“ The  undersigned  had  the  honour,  on  yesterday,  to 
address  a note  to  your  excellency,  announcing  the  fact 
of  his  appointment  as  minister  of  the  United  States  of 
America,  near  this  government,  and  of  his  arrival  in  this 
city,  and  requesting  to  know  when  he  could  have  the 


298  HIS  EXERTIONS  FOR  THE  AUTHOR. 

honour  of  being  presented  to  the  most  excellent  the  Pro- 
visional President  of  Mexico.  Not  having  received  an 
answer  to  that  note  (of  which  he  by  no  means  com- 
plains), the  undersigned  as  yet  bears  no  official  relation 
to  this  government.  But  having  this  moment  been  in- 
formed that  a citizen  of  the  United  States,  Mr.  George 
W.  Kendall,  who  has  been  confined  in  the  hospital  of 
San  Lazaro,  has  been  removed  to  the  Convent  of  San- 
tiago, and  placed  in  chains,  the  undersigned  hopes  it 
will  be  his  sufficient  apology  for  his  again  addressing 
your  excellency. 

“ The  undersigned  is  in  possession  of  testimony  addi- 
tional to  that  heretofore  submitted  to  your  excellency, 
which  he  believes  will  place  beyond  all  doubt  the  facts 
of  Mr.  Kendall  having  had  a passport,  and  that  his  pur- 
poses in  his  visit  to  Mexico  were  altogether  pacific. 
The  undersigned,  relying  (as  he  does)  on  the  sincerity 
of  the  professions  heretofore  made  to  his  excellency,  Mr. 
Ellis,  has  no  hesitation  in  saying  that  the  Mexican  au- 
thorities will  be  satisfied  with  this  evidence,  and  will 
take  pleasure  in  releasing  Mr.  Kendall.” 

These  extracts  I have  copied,  partly  to  show  the  ef- 
fect my  removal  from  San  Lazaro  to  Santiago  had  upon 
my  fi’iends  in  Mexico,  but  principally  to  make  known 
the  deep  interest  taken  in  my  behalf  by  General  Thomp- 
son. Although  at  the  time  I had  little  hope  of  obtaining 
immediate  liberty  through  the  intervention  of  my  own 
government,  I still  could  not  but  feel  grateful  for  the 
prompt  and  decided  tone  adopted  by  the  new  minister 
in  an  emergency  to  me  so  critical. 

I could  not,  at  the  time,  look  upon  the  course  pursued 
by  Mr.  Ellis  as  sufficiently  energetic,  yet  even  to  this 
day  I do  not  believe  that  a majority  of  our  diplomatic 
agents  would  have  acted  differently.  I am  firmly  con- 


BOLDNESS  THE  BEST  POLICY. 


299 


vinced  that  a bold  tone  would  have  been  the  proper  one, 
and  that  the  assumption  of  responsibility  would  have 
met  with  the  approval  of  the  people  of  the  United  States ; 
but  the  chief  blame  must  He  at  the  door  of  the  govern- 
ment, not  at  the  minister’s.  That  Mr.  Ellis  did  not  suc- 
ceed better,  in  his  efforts  to  procure  the  liberty  of  his 
countrynien,  must  be  ascribed,  in  the  first  place,  to  the 
circumstance  that  it  has  almost  become  a settled  policy 
with  our  foreign  plenipotentiaries — a policy  he  did  not 
feel  disposed  to  deviate  from — to  avoid  taking  a serious 
and  decided  responsibility,  in  cases  of  sudden  emergen- 
cy, fearful  that  the  interests  of  the  party  which  has  sent 
them  may  be  injured,  or  its  plans  for  future  advance- 
ment frustrated  by  so  doing ; and  herein  lies  one  of  the 
most  serious  deficiencies  of  our  system  of  government. 
The  foreign  agents  of  the  United  States  have  nominally 
the  same  powers  that  are  granted  to  those  of  England 
or  France  ^ yet  while  the  latter  can  act  promptly,  and 
with  the  full  confidence  that  they  will  be  justified  and 
supported  at  home  in  whatever  stand  they  may  take, 
the  hands  of  the  former  are  too  often  tied  by  the  fear 
that  their  course  may  possibly  run  counter  to  the  inter- 
ests of  that  party  or  clique  whose  servants  they  deem 
themselves,  and  hence,  in  matters  of  really  trivial  im- 
portance, they  are  driven  to  write  home  for  advice  how 
to  act.  In  the  second  place,  the  instructions  at  first 
sent  to  Mr.  Ellis  were  such  as  allowed  him  no  other  al- 
ternative than  a “ war  of  words”  with  the  Mexican  di- 
plomatists— a game  at  which  the  latter  leave  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  race  entirely  in  the  distance.  They  resemble 
Goldsmith’s  country  schoolmaster, 

“ For  e’en  though  vanquished,  he  could  argue  still,” 

and  so  can  they.  If  my  reader  would  allow  me  one 
moment’s  digression,  I would  give  it  as  my  firm  convic- 


300 


NOTHING  GAINED  BY  TEMPORIZING. 


tion  that  we  have  had  but  two  administrations,  since  the 
days  of  Washington,  that  were  properly  bold  and  inde- 
pendent as  regards  their  foreign  policy — those  of  the 
elder  Adams  and  General  Jackson.  Politicians  can 
take  no  umbrage  at  this  remark,  as  I have  mentioned 
two  extremes  when  the  general  policy  of  the  country 
is  taken  into  consideration.  One  great  fault, "'with  too 
many  of  the  administrations  by  which  we  have  been 
governed,  has  been  the  resort  to  protracted  arguments 
in  matters  where  not  a word  of  debate  should  have 
been  allowed — a policy  but  too  well  understood  by  ev- 
ery government  with  which  we  have  had  dealings,  and 
of  which  all,  as  a matter  of  course,  have  taken  advan- 
tage. When  the  powers  at  Washington  are  convinced 
that  they  are  in  the  right,  upon  any  question  of  foreign 
policy  at  issue,  what  necessity  for  dispute  ? If  it  is  ev- 
ident that  any  little  patch  of  territory,  no  matter  how 
insignificant,  belongs  of  right  to  us,  why  not  plant,  oc- 
cupy, and,  in  firm  but  dignified  language,  say  that  we 
will  keep  it  at  any  and  all  hazards  ? If  it  can  be  made 
to  appear  that  an  American  citizen,  under  protection  of 
that  flag  of  which  we  so  much  boast,  is  insulted  in  a for- 
eign land,  why  not  demand  and  obtain  full  satisfaction 
at  once  ? In  many,  too  many  instances,  such  has  not 
been  the  case,  and  every  fresh  demonstration  of  ineffi- 
ciency or  inattention  to  these  matters  is  but  granting  a 
fresh  license  for  some  foreign  power  to  repeat  its  ag- 
gressions and  its  insults.  In  the  case  of  Mr.  Alvarez,  our 
consul  at  Santa  Fe,  who,  in  1841,  was  wantonly  attack- 
ed and  severely  wounded  in  his  own  house,  and  direct- 
ly under  the  “ stars  and  stripes” — in  his  case  what  has 
been  done  ? Nothing  whatever.  I might  mention  even 
greater  outrages,  but  this  is  sufficient. 

Had  Mr.  Ellis  been  authorized  to  try  the  virtue  of 


GENERAL  THOMPSON  AND  MR.  ELLIS. 


301 


“ blows  and  knocks,”  as  he  undoubtedly  would  have 
been  by  General  Jackson,  he  would  have  done  so  with 
promptness  ; but  he  seemed  anxious  in  no  way  to  tran- 
scend the  limited  instructions  given  him,  and  hence  the 
long-protracted  correspondence  which  took  place  in 
relation  to  the  American  prisoners.*  Mr.  E.  might, 
and  I believe  should,  have  taken  the  responsibility,  and 
made  a positive  demand,  either  for  the  prisoners  or  his 
passports,  in  which  case,  such  was  the  state  of  feeling 
in  the  United  States  at  the  time,  I am  confident  he 
would  have  been  justified  by  nine  tenths  of  the  people  ; 
but,  like  too  many  others,  he  was  a “ strict  construc- 
tionist,” and  disposed  to  obey  rigidly  the  very  letter  of 
his  instructions. 

On  the  other  hand,  had  General  Thompson  been  then 
our  minister,  he  would  have  stretched  the  instructions 
given  him  to  their  utmost — nay,  would  have  shaken  oft' 
the  trammels  a weak  point  in  our  government  appears 
to  have  thrown  over  her  agents — and  by  so  doing,  let 
what  would  come  of  it,  received  the  warm  approval  and 
universal  thanks  of  his  countrymen.  He  might  not  have 
effected  more  than  did  Mr.  Ellis,  yet  I am  constrained 
to  believe  that  he  would  — that  our  immediate  libera- 
tion would  have  followed  close  upon  a positive  de- 
mand. 

Such  I conceive  to  be  the  difference  between  the  two 
ministers,  or  rather  between  the  course  adopted  by  Mr. 
Ellis  and  that  which  undoubtedly  would  have  been  pur- 
sued by  his  successor  ; and  although  suffering  and  im- 

* Had  General  Jackson  been  President  of  the  United  States  at  the  time, 
I do  not  believe  that  one  of  the  American  prisoners  would  have  been  in 
bondage  twenty-four  hours  after  the  first  despatch  in  relation  to  them  had 
been  received  at  Mexico  from  Washington.  The  Mexican  diplomatists 
know  perfectly  well  with  whom  they  have  to  deal — there  would  have  been 
no  “ putting  off  the  previous  question”  had  General  J.  been  in  power, 

Vol.  II.— C c 


302 


NIGHT  IN  SANTIAGO. 


prisonment  without  cause  for  months  may  have  wrought 
prejudice  in  my  mind,  I cannot  but  believe  that  the  lat- 
ter course  would  have  been  the  better  and  the  prop- 
er one.  Nor  can  I even  now  divest  myself  of  the 
idea  that  Santa  Anna,  to  this  day,  laughs  in  his  sleeve 
when  he  remembers  upon  what  flimsy  pretexts  he  re- 
tained several  Americans  in  prison,  without  the  shadow 
of  cause,  and  despite  the  remonstrances  of  the  repre- 
sentative of  the  United  States.* 

But  to  return  to  the  actual.  When  Sully  came  in 
from  the  streets,  on  the  evening  of  the  day  which  had 
first  introduced  me  to  the  irons,  we  ascertained  that  he 
had  made  partial  arrangements  with  some  of  our  guard 
to  pass  four  of  us  out  secretly  in  the  course  of  a night 
or  two,  or  at  the  first  favourable  opportunity.  The 
plan  was  to  be  more  fully  matured  the  next  day. 

At  dark,  the  heavy  door  of  our  room  was  locked,  not 
to  be  opened  again  until  morning,  and  in  the  mean 
time  a regular  guard  was  placed  before  it  on  the  out- 
side. The  closing  of  the  door  was  but  the  signal  for 
all  the  prisoners  to  divest  themselves  of  their  chains. 
Such  as  could  slip  the  irons  over  their  ankles  and  feet 


* The  fact  of  my  having  a passport,  although  denied,  was  so  abundantly 
proved,  that  the  Mexican  government  hardly  urged  it  as  an  excuse  by  which 
to  detain  me  ; but  the  Chihuahua  letter,  thoughtlessly  written  by  an  American 
gentleman  since  dead,  and  in  which  it  was  erroneously  stated  that  I was 
sent  forward  as  an  avant  courrier,  was  used  as  a pretext  to  the  very  last.  By 
a distortion  of  the  sense  of  that  letter  peculiarly  Mexican,  I was  implicated 
with  the  Santa  F6  Expedition,  and  finding  this  a sufficient  plea  to  continue 
me  in  prison,  it  was  never  lost  sight  of.  I have  little  doubt,  if  the  truth  could 
be  known,  that  the  papers  of  which  I was  robbed  by  Armijo,  passport  and  all, 
were  quietly  resting  in  the  bureau  of  the  Mexican  Minister  of  Foreign  Rela- 
tions during  the  whole  time  of  the  negotiations  in  relation  to  the  release  of 
the  American  prisoners.  The  story  that  Armijo  destroyed  the  passport  in 
my  presence  was  certainly  erroneous,  and  as  he  sent  all  the  important  papers 
found  upon  the  Texans  to  the  capital,  I have  little  doubt  that  mine  found 
their  way  there  in  the  same  package. 


AMUSEMENTS  OF  THE  PRISONERS. 


303 


were  at  once  free,  while  others  produced  files  from 
their  hiding-places,  and  the  work  of  cutting  down  rivets 
was  commenced,  with  an  assiduity  and  zeal,  which 
soon  resulted  in  the  Texans  ridding  themselves  of  all 
encumbrances  upon  their  comfort  and  free  locomotion. 
In  certainly  less  than  half  an  hour  the  ankles  of  nearly 
every  prisoner  were  loosened  from  the  shackles,  and  it 
was  only  from  indolence  that  all  did  not  free  them- 
selves. The  chains  were  then  carefully  placed  in  po- 
sitions where  they  could  easily  be  put  on  again,  should 
the  ill-natured  old  commandante  by  any  chance  take  it 
into  his  head  to  make  us  a night  visit,  and  this  little  pre- 
caution over,  the  varied  entertainments  which  usually 
beguiled  the  long  evenings  commenced. 

There  were  some  fifty  of  us  in  the  room  in  which  I 
was  confined,  and  in  one  quarter  of  it  would  be  seen  a 
party  engaged  at  whist,  all-fours,  uchre,  or  some  other 
game  a knowledge  of  which  they  had  brought  with 
them  from  Texas.  In  another  part  some  prisoner 
would  open  the  game  of  monte,  an  insight  into  which 
he  had  picked  up  from  the  Mexicans  since  his  confine- 
ment, and  around  him  would  be  gathered  a small  knot 
of  betters  staking  small  sums  upon  the  turn  of  the  cards, 
for  all  appeared  to  have  more  or  less  money.  By  the 
same  candle,  probably,  some  two  or  three  of  the  Tex- 
ans were  reading  such  books  as  the  foreigners  had  sent 
us.  In  still  another  quarter  a small  party  would  be 
seen,  half  reclining  upon  their  blankets,  while  one  of 
their  number  recited  some  story  of  other  days  and 
lands ; and  should  the  story  chance  to  be  humorous  in 
its  nature,  the  joyous  and  hearty  laugh  which  followed 
its  termination  showed  plainly  enough  that  the  listeners 
were  thinking  of  anything  but  chains  and  imprisonment. 

Songs,  too,  enlivened  the  scene,  and  served  to  beguile 


304 


MIRTH  IN  CAPTIVITY. 


the  hours,  while  several  musicians  in  the  party  had 
found  means  to  procure  instruments  upon  which  some 
of  them  played  exceedingly  well.  But  of  all  the  modes 
employed  to  while  away  the  evenings,  the  most  com- 
mon, perhaps,  was  reading,  and  conspicuous  among  this 
class  was  my  yoke-fellow  in  chains,  the  veteran  Major 
Bennett,  who  might  be  seen  busily  poring  over  a Bible 
which  had  been  given  him  by  Mr.  Elliott,  the  chaplain 
of  the  United  States  Exploring  Expedition,  when  in 
Santiago  on  his  way  from  the  Pacific  to  Washington. 

Thus  with  books  and  song,  cards  and  stories,  the 
hours  slipped  away  pleasantly  enough  to  all,  and  the 
reader  may  feel  not  a little  astonishment  when  I say 
that  the  nightly  soirees  in  the  old  Convent  of  Santiago 
were  as  productive  of  mirth  as  are  many  of  those  held 
within  the  gay  saloons  of  any  land.  There  is  some- 
thing in  the  Anglo-Saxon  character  which  buoys  and 
sustains  the  spirit  under  adversity,  a quality  which  ap- 
pears to  be  inherent ; and  it  was  continually  a matter 
of  surprise  to  our  guard,  from  San  Miguel  even  to  the 
city  of  Mexico,  to  see  not  only  the  indifference  we  all 
manifested  under  our  misfortunes,  but  the  gayety  and 
good-humour  which  at  all  times  prevailed  among  the 
prisoners.  And  I doubt  whether  any  of  the  Texans, 
when  memory  now  carries  them  back,  ever  think,  with- 
out shuddering,  of  scenes  through  which  they  then  pass- 
ed, but  which  at  the  time  they  thought  little  of,  or  cared 
not  for.  The  anticipation  of  any  impending  danger  or 
difficulty  is  invariably  worse  than  the  reality;  and  when 
the  dreaded  reality  arrives,  and  the  full  measure  of  our 
fear  breaks  upon  us,  the  imagination  so  busies  itself  in 
fancying  still  greater  peril  and  suffering  in  perspective 
that  the  present  is  lightened  of  half  its  burden.  The 
much-dreaded  future  is  an  ignis  fatuus,  leading  the 


A REASON  FOR  NOT  ESCAPING. 


305 


mind  to  anticipate  troubles  and  annoyances  which, 
when  encountered,  are  either  not  noticed,  or  only  sur- 
prise us  by  their  comparatively  trifling  importance. 

When  the  morning  of  the  20th  of  April  came,  and  the 
Mexican  who  had  charge  of  the  prisoners  while  at  their 
work  entered  our  apartment,  I again  expected  that  I 
should  be  ordered  into  the  streets,  and  compelled  to  go 
through  the  form  of  labour ; but  I was  once  more  for- 
tunate enough  to  escape.  The  reason  for  thus  slight- 
ing me  may  have  been  the  circumstance  that  Major 
Bennett,  my  companion  at  the  other  end  of  the  chain, 
was  exempted  from  all  outdoor  work — partly  on  ac- 
count of  his  age  and  rank  as  an  officer,  but  principally 
because  he  was  engaged  a portion  of  his  time  in  the 
cocina,  attending  to  the  cooking  of  our  food. 

In  the  course  of  the  day  several  parties  of  foreigners 
visited  Santiago.  I told  them  all  that  I should  attempt 
an  escape,  and  that  very  night  if  a favourable  opportu- 
nity offered.  They  advised  me,  by  all  means,  to  defer 
any  attempt  until  after  General  Thompson  was  duly 
received  as  the  accredited  minister  of  the  United  States, 
and  I partially  consented  to  this  course  ; yet  had  a door 
been  left  open,  or  the  least  chance  of  a successful  escape 
offered,  I should  most  certainly  have  bidden  farewell  to 
imprisonment,  chains,  and  Santiago  together.*  The 
recollection  of  the  many  favourable  opportunities  to 

* A Yankee  friend  of  mine  resident  in  Mexico — one  of  the  old  Bunker  Hill 
stock — told  me,  while  in  San  Lazaro,  that  he  hoped  I would  “ tough  it  out 
awhile” — I use  his  own  words — in  the  expectation  that  our  government 
might  be  driven  into  a “ small  skirmish” — his  own  words  again — with  Mex- 
ico. T know  that  one  reason  why  many  Americans  were  anxious  that  I 
should  not  escape  through  my  own  means  was  their  desire  for  a war,  and 
that  they  thought  my  farther  detention  would  be  just  cause  for  one.  The 
result  of  a war,  they  were  confident,  would  place  them  upon  an  equality 
with  the  English  and  French  residents — a position  they  said  they  were  far 
from  enjoying. 


C c 2 


306 


THE  DAY  OF  SAN  JACINTO. 


escape  while  in  San  Lazaro  haunted  and  annoyed  me 
excessively ; and  nothing  short  of  a positive  assurance 
of  an  honourable  liberation  within  a week  could  have 
kept  me  twenty-four  hours  in  Santiago,  had  there  been 
a possibility  of  liberating  myself. 

At  a late  hour  on  the  evening  of  the  20th  two  or 
three  Americans  called  upon  me  a second  time,  and 
earnestly  requested  me  to  remain  quiet  another  day — 
to  hazard  no  attempt  at  an  escape  until  I should  hear 
farther  from  them.  As  the  principal  plan,  adopted  by 
myself  and  companions  to  effect  our  liberation,  was 
still  far  from  being  matured,  I consented  to  abide  by 
the  advice  of  the  Americans,  and  with  no  little  reluc- 
tance passed  another  night  in  Santiago. 

Early  the  next  morning  there  appeared  to  be  unusual 
bustle  and  preparation  among  the  prisoners — an  excite- 
ment which  I did  not  at  first  understand.  On  inquiry, 
I learned  that  it  was  the  anniversary  of  the  celebrated 
battle  of  San  Jacinto — the  great  victory  gained  over 
Santa  Anna — and  that  the  Texans  were  determined 
upon  celebrating  it  as  brilliantly  as  possible.  Some  of 
the  Americans  then  in  Mexico,  among  them  Mr.  Cool- 
idge,  had  sent  the  prisoners  some  half  dozen  turkeys, 
and  other  luxuries  in  the  way  of  eating,  besides  a gen- 
erous supply  of  wines  and  liquors  of  the  choicest  quali- 
ties. The  Texans  had  also  provided  themselves,  while 
in  the  streets  the  day  before,  with  such  little  delicacies 
as  they  could  purchase,  determined  upon  having  a grand 
dinner  on  the  “ glorious  21st,”  if  nothing  else. 

On  ordinary  occasions  the  prisoners  were  taken  from 
Santiago  at  about  eight  o’clock  in  the  morning,  con- 
ducted some  half  or  three  quarters  of  a mile  from  the 
convent  to  a ditch,  and  then  compelled  to  go  through 
the  forms  of  pumping  and  digging.  By  as  close  a 


LIGHT  LABOUR. 


307 


mathematical  calculation  as  could  be  made,  without  in- 
struments or  figures,  it  was  thought  the  water  ran  into 
the  ditch  they  were  clearing  just  as  fast  as  they  pump- 
ed it  out — perhaps  a trifle  faster  ; but  the  economy  of 
effecting  much  with  little  labour  is  but  ill  understood  in 
Mexico,  and  the  fact  that  the  Texans  made  no  progress 
in  the  job  upon  which  they  were  engaged  created  but 
little  difference  with  the  Mexican  overseers.  At  twelve 
o’clock,  or  near  that  hour,  the  prisoners  were  conducted 
back  to  the  convent  for  their  dinners,  all  in  chains,  and 
after  occupying  some  hour  and  a half  or  two  hours  with 
this  meal,  they  were  again  conducted  to  the  ditch.  Not 
one  of  them  ever  hurt  or  tired  himself  with  work,  but 
on  the  contrary  it  was  said  that  they  amused  themselves 
by  experimenting  on  the  smallest  possible  amount  of 
labour  a man  could  perform  when  he  set  his  wits  to 
work  and  tried  his  best ! I recollect  a remark  made  by 
a facetious  prisoner  one  evening — I think  it  was  Jimmy 
Tweed — to  the  effect  that  he  had  exerted  himself  all 
day  to  ascertain  how  little  he  could  do ; and  the  result, 
in  round  numbers,  was,  that  he  had  thrown  one  shovel- 
ful of  mud  from  the  ditch,  but  in  so  doing  he  had  con- 
trived to  tumble  three  back  ! 

The  great  object  with  the  Texans,  on  the  morning 
of  the  21st  of  April,  was  to  obtain  the  consent  of  the 
old  commandante  to  their  remaining  in-doors  during 
the  afternoon — they  were  anxious  enough  to  be  taken 
out  in  the  morning,  as  it  would  give  them  an  opportu- 
nity to  increase  their  supply  of  liquor  and  other  mate- 
rials for  the  feast.  A committee,  composed  of  such  as 
could  speak  Spanish,  was  accordingly  appointed,  whose 
business  it  was  to  wait  upon  the  Mexican  officers  and 
inform  them  that  the  21st  of  April  was  the  patron  saint’s 
day  of  Texas,  and  also,  in  language  most  respectful  and 


308 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  A FESTIVAL. 


courteous,  to  ask  permission  to  celebrate  it  in  the  after- 
noon with  all  becoming  ceremony  and  rejoicing.  In 
profound  ignorance  of  the  day,  and  the  glorious  battle 
the  Texans  wished  to  celebrate,  the  Mexican  officers 
kindly  gave  their  consent  to  every  request  made.  By 
such  stratagem  the  great  object  of  the  prisoners  was 
accomplished,  and  they  now  set  themselves  about  ma- 
king every  arrangement  for  the  approaching  festivi- 
ties.* 

Such  of  the  prisoners  as  had  any  skill  in  drawing  or 
painting  feigned  illness,  and  were  not  taken  out  in  the 
morning  with  their  comrades.  They  had  obtained,  by 
some  means,  a supply  of  red  and  white  paint,  and  the 
result  of  their  morning’s  work  was  the  decoration  of  the 
walls  of  our  room  with  Texan  flags,  and  sea  and  land 
fights — the  Texans  of  course  triumphant,  the  Mexicans 
discomfited,  and  the  “ lone  star”  in  the  ascendant.  An 
appropriate  ode — full  of  patriotism,  liberty,  San  Jacinto, 
love  of  country,  detestation  of  tyrants,  &c. — was  written 
by  some  poet  among  the  prisoners,  and  one  of  the  Tex- 
an officers,  known  to  be  endowed  with  vocal  powers, 
was  appointed  to  sing  it.  A master  of  ceremonies,  an 
orator  of  the  day,  toast-master— -in  fact  all  the  requi- 
site officers  were  appointed,  and  before  the  men  came 
in  from  their  morning’s  work,  every  necessary  prepara- 
tion had  been  made  for  a regular  celebration. 

The  hour  at  which  the  dinner  was  to  be  served  was 
three  o’clock  ; but  before  that  time  a number  of  foreign- 
ers had  arrived  at  Santiago  for  the  purpose  of  taking 

* It  could  not  have  been  that  the  Mexicans  were  aware  of  the  events 
which  had  transpired  on  the  21st  of  April.  The  younger  officers  of  our 
guard  were  liberal  and  accommodating  to  a fault;  yet  they  would  not  have 
dared  grant  the  Texans  permission  to  celebrate  a victory  which  had  lost 
their  country  one  of  its  most  valuable  provinces,  and  this  under  the  very 
nose  of  Santa  Anna  himself,  who  had  been  taken  prisoner  in  that  battle. 


CLOSE  OF  THE  FESTIVAL. 


309 


part  in  the  celebration.  One  of  them,  who  at  this  time 
was  residing  in  the  city  of  Mexico,  was  himself  a mem- 
ber of  the  small  but  gallant  band  that  achieved  the 
great  victory  of  San  Jacinto,  and  related  several  inter- 
esting anecdotes  of  that  desperate  struggle — a struggle 
which  resulted  in  the  complete  overthrow  of  the  Mexi- 
can power  in  Texas.  The  dinner  itself  was  excellent 
— I might  almost  say  sumptuous.  The  “ bill  of  fare” 
did  not  display  that  varied  list  of  French  inventions  to 
be  found  at  the  noted  St.  Charles  Hotel,  in  New-Or- 
leans,  or  the  Astor  House,  in  New-York  ; but  we  had 
roast  beef,  turkey,  and  good  appetites,  and  the  whole 
affair  went  otf  with  the  greatest  eclat. 

After  the  “ cloth  was  removed” — a performance  which 
it  took  but  about  two  minutes  to  execute,  as  there  was 
nothing  to  do  save  to  stow  the  bowls,  plates,  and  spoons 
away  in  the  corners — after  this  was  done,  the  celebra- 
tion of  the  great  anniversary  began  in  real  earnest. 
The  regular  toasts  were  appropriate,  the  volunteers 
spirited,  and  the  ode  a very  creditable  piece,  and  given 
with  much  effect.  An  oration  by  Major  Bonnell,  one 
of  the  prisoners,  followed,  Dr.  Brenham  and  several 
other  gentlemen  also  making  some  very  pertinent  re- 
marks. As  the  hours  wore  along,  and  the  liquor  circu- 
lated more  freely,  the  hilarity  and  general  good  feeling 
increased.  Some  of  the  foreigners  present  placed  the 
chains  of  the  prisoners  around  their  own  ankles,  and 
several  fancy  jigs  and  hornpipes  were  executed  with 
jingling  and  clanking  accompaniments.  “ Hail  Colum- 
bia” and  the  “ Star-spangled  Banner,”  in  addition  to 
the  Texan  patriotic  songs,  were  duly  honoured  by  nu- 
merous voices,  while  the  memory  of  Washington  was 
drunk  standing  and  uncovered.  Even  the  younger 
Mexican  officers  took  part  in  a celebration  which  to 


310 


ITS  WELCOME  SEdUEL. 


them  must  have  been  strange,  drinking  several  toasts 
which  were  highly  complimentary  to  the  Texans. 

It  was  not  until  dark  that  the  joyous  festivities  ceas- 
ed, and  even  after  the  prisoners  were  locked  in  their 
room  for  the  night,  wild  catches  of  song  and  uproari- 
ous merriment  helped  still  farther  to  enliven  the  scene. 
While  Santa  Anna,  at  his  palace  in  one  part  of  the  city, 
was  doubtless  brooding  over  his  misfortunes  on  the  fa- 
tal field  of  San  Jacinto,  a crowd  of  jovial  Texan  pris- 
oners were  celebrating  that  very  victory  in  another 
part,  and  in  chains. 


CHAPTER  XYI. 

Intelligence  of  immediate  Release. — Its  Effect. — Close  of  the  Celebration. — 
Night  Visiters  at  Santiago. — Arrival  of  Mr.  Ellis  with  an  Order  for  our 
Release. — The  old  Blacksmith  again. — His  Services  dispensed  with. — 
Once  more  free  from  Chains. — Leave  Santiago  and  Imprisonment. — Cheers 
of  the  Texans  at  our  Departure. — Congratulations  of  the  young  Mexican 
Officers. — Another  night  Ride  through  Mexico.  — Encounter  with  a re- 
ligious Procession. — Arrival  at  the  United  States  Legation. — The  Gran 
Sociedad. — Comfortable  Quarters.  — Sleep  impossible.  — Change  of  Cir- 
cumstances.— The  Watchwords  of  Mexico. — Encounter  with  a Sentinel. 
— Early  Morn  in  Mexico. — Strange  Cries.— “ Carbon.” — Appearance  of 
the  Streets. — Picture  of  morning  Life  in  Mexico. — Change  of  Wardrobe. 
— Visit  to  a French  Barber. — A Shearing  and  Shaving  Operation. — Im- 
provement in  personal  Appearance. — Beggars  in  front  of  a Church. — De- 
scription of  the  wretched  Throng.  — Return  to  the  Gran  Sociedad. — A 
sumptuous  Breakfast. — Visit  to  the  British  Minister,  Mr.  Pakenham. — 
Once  more  in  Santiago. — Mexican  Girls. — Visit  to  our  old  Quarters  at  San 
Lazaro. — Bribing  a Sentinel. — Meeting  with  the  Texans  and  Lepers. — 
Call  at  the  Dwelling  of  a Mexican  Lady,  an  old  Friend. — Her  musical  At- 
tainments.— Anecdote  of  her  Spirit  and  Patriotism. 

In  the  very  midst  of  the  celebration,  and  while  the 
rejoicing  was  at  its  height,  Mr.  Coolidge  called  upon 
me  with  the  intelligence  that  I was  to  be  liberated  im- 


ASSURANCE  OF  LIBERATION. 


311 


mediately — in  fact,  that  the  order  for  my  release  was 
already  given,  and  only  awaited  certain  signatures  to 
be  carried  into  effect.  This  gentleman,  in  company 
with  a number  of  Americans,  had  been  at  the  palace 
of  Santa  Anna  when  Mr.  Ellis  took  his  leave  and  Gen- 
eral Thompson  presented  his  credentials  and  was  duly 
received  as  the  Minister  Plenipotentiary  of  the  United 
States.  At  this  audience,  Mr.  Coolidge  informed  me, 
Santa  Anna  formally  assured  Mr.  Ellis  that  he  should 
give  up  to  him  young  Howard,  Sully,  and  myself,  with 
four  of  the  prisoners  at  Puebla  who  had  claimed  Amer- 
ican protection.  With  a cunning  characteristic  of  the 
Provisional  President,  he  now  saw  that  he  had  an  op- 
portunity to  dispose  of  us  without  compromising  his 
honour  and  dignity,  and,  placing  our  liberation  in  the 
light  of  a personal  favour  to  Mr.  Ellis,  had  consented 
to  give  us  up  to  that  gentleman.  Santa  Anna  is  never 
caught  without  some  loop-hole  through  which  to  crawl 
when  closely  cornered. 

The  time  had  been  when  news  that  I was  to  be  im- 
mediately released,  coming  in  shape  so  authentic,  would 
have  filled  me  with  sensations  the  most  pleasing — now 
I received  it  with  an  indifference  which  even  to  myself 
appeared  unaccountable.  It  may  be  that  the  numerous 
false  hopes  that  had  been  held  out  to  me  partly  induced 
this  unconcern,  for  I should  most  certainly  have  re- 
ceived a present  of  a box  of  cigars  with  more  pleasure  ; 
but  the  principal  reason  was,  that  I felt  perfectly  confi- 
dent of  making  my  escape  within  a few  hours,  or  days 
at  farthest.  I say  that  I felt  confident — I was  certain 
of  being  free  from  chains  and  imprisonment  immediate- 
ly, and  through  my  own  individual  exertions,  and  this 
certainly  begat  indifference  to  any  other  means.  An- 
other thing,  which  in  some  measure  served  to  alloy  the 


312 


AN  AGREEABLE  VISIT. 


cup  of  happiness,  was  the  circumstance  that  we  under- 
stood our  liberation  was  granted,  not  as  a right,  but  as 
a personal  favour.  We  all  had  that  pride  of  country 
which  induced  us  to  hope  that  our  government  would 
peremptorily  and  unconditionally  demand  our  release, 
and  were  every  way  prepared  to  bide  the  issue,  be  it 
what  it  might.  We  knew  the  people  of  our  native 
land,  and  knowing  them,  felt  confident  that  our  wrongs 
would,  if  persisted  in,  sooner  or  later  be  redressed. 

The  door  of  our  prison,  on  the  night  of  the  celebra- 
tion, was  locked  a little  after  the  usual  hour,  yet  the  re- 
joicing still  continued.  As  the  hours  sped  along,  the 
prisoners,  one  by  one,  rolled  themselves  in  their  blan- 
kets upon  the  stone  floor,  and  soon  fell  asleep.  Suffering 
from  a cold  and  slight  headache  at  the  time,  I had  fol- 
lowed their  example  and  was  already  in  a half  doze, 
when  a sound  was  heard  at  the  door  as  of  a key  slow- 
ly turning  in  the  lock.  This  was  between  nine  and 
ten  o’clock,  and  the  unusual  circumstance  of  a visit  at 
that  hour  not  only  awoke  such  of  the  prisoners  as  were 
asleep,  but  induced  all  to  begin  fastening  the  chains 
about  their  ankles  and  take  the  necessary  precautions 
in  case  the  old  commandante  had  chosen  that  strange 
hour  to  look  in  upon  us.  I had  not  taken  off  my  irons 
on  lying  down — why  I know  not — so  that  my  “ toilet 
was  made”  for  the  reception  of  any  company  that  might 
call  at  our  quarters. 

The  door  at  length  slowly  opened,  and  the  old  com- 
mandante, accompanied  by  Mr.  Ellis,  Mr.  Mayer,  and 
two  or  three  of  the  Mexican  officers  on  duty  at  the 
convent,  entered  our  prison.  On  seeing  Mr.  Mayer  at 
an  hour  so  unusual,  I at  once  felt  assured  that  I was  to 
be  released.  He  introduced  me  to  Mr.  Ellis,  and  after- 
ward made  him  acquainted  with  Colonel  Cooke  and 


FREE  AT  LAST. 


313 


several  of  the  Texan  officers  ; and  as  he  looked  around 
him,  as  he  heard  the  clanking  of  chains,  and  beheld 
such  numbers  of  his  countrymen  in  plight  so  mortify- 
ing and  degrading,  the  kind-hearted  minister  was  deep- 
ly affected. 

He  had  brought  the  order  for  the  release  of  Howard, 
Sully,  and  myself,  and  the  old  commandante  had  order- 
ed a blacksmith  to  accompany  him  for  the  purpose  of 
releasing  us  from  the  irons.  Sully  soon  extricated  him- 
self without  assistance,  but  with  young  Howard  the 
case  was  different.  His  chain  was  almost  the  only  one 
so  securely  fastened  that  it  could  not  be  got  off  without 
difficulty,  and  the  old  blacksmith  was  compelled  to 
hammer  away  upon  his  anvil  several  minutes  before 
the  task  was  accomplished.  I well  knew  that  a single 
shake  of  my  foot  would  release  my  ankle  from  the  an- 
noying load  of  iron  ; but  anxious  to  astonish  the  Mexi- 
cans a little,  even  at  this  time,  I allowed  the  blacksmith 
to  place  his  anvil  in  a position  near  me.  On  his  point- 
ing to  my  ankle,  and  making  signs  that  he  was  ready 
to  perform  the  kind  office  of  relieving  me,  I gave  my 
foot  a slight  shake,  which  sent  the  chain  clanking  across 
the  floor.  The  rivet,  which  had  but  partially  confined 
it,  fell  near  me.  I quietly  picked  it  up  and  put  it  in 
my  pocket,  determined  to  have  some  memento  of  San- 
tiago and  imprisonment  more  lasting  than  mere  recol- 
lection, should  that  ever  fail  me.  If  the  old  command- 
ante  of  the  convent,  in  taking  an  account  of  stock, 
should  happen  to  miss  one  of  his  rivets,  he  can  charge 
the  same  to  me. 

In  a few  minutes,  after  promising  to  call  upon  our 
Texan  friends  on  the  following  day,  we  left  the  lock-up 
room  of  Santiago,  the  prisoners  giving  three  hearty 
cheers  as  we  crossed  the  threshold.  At  the  outer  door 

VOL.  II.— D D 


314 


HOPE  OF  A SPEEDY  RELEASE. 


the  young  Mexican  officers  crowded  around  us,  cor- 
dially congratulating  us  upon  our  release,  and  express- 
ing the  warmest  wishes  that  our  still  imprisoned  com- 
rades might  soon  be  permitted  to  accompany  us.  From 
their  actions,  it  appeared  that  our  liberation  gave  them 
emotions  even  as  pleasurable  as  our  own. 

Mr.  Ellis  had  procured  a coach  to  convey  us  to  the 
city,  which  we  now  entered  in  company  with  himself 
and  Mr.  Mayer.  Several  buildings  were  passed  which 
I recollected  having  seen,  a few  nights  before,  while  on 
the  gloomy  midnight  trip  from  San  Lazaro  to  Santiago. 
On  entering  one  of  the  main  streets  of  Mexico  we  met 
a long  religious  procession,  preceded  by  bells  and  lights, 
and  probably  on  its  way  to  perform  some  funeral  ser- 
vice. Our  postillion  reined  up  his  mules,  and  uncover- 
ing our  heads,  we  remained  still  until  the  last  stragglers 
had  passed.  A drive  of  some  half  a mile  now  brought 
us  to  the  apartments  of  Mr.  Ellis,  at  the  United  States 
Legation,  in  a street  immediately  in  the  rear  of  the  ca- 
thedral and  within  a stone’s  throw  of  the  great  palace 
whence  come  all  the  decrees  and  vaunting  proclama- 
tions sent  forth  to  the  Mexican  people,  and  which  has 
been  the  scene  of  revolutions  innumerable.  At  the 
rooms  of  Mr.  Ellis  we  found  several  of  our  countrymen 
collected,  all  congratulating  us  upon  our  happy  release. 
Our  next  movement  was  to  the  Gran  Sociedad,  a large 
establishment  where  Mr.  Mayer  had  provided  rooms 
for  our  accommodation.  I had  intended  to  take  lodg- 
ings at  the  Casa  de  Diligencias,  or  Stage  Hotel,  but  my 
kind  friends  would  not  listen  to  any  such  arrangement. 

Once  in  comfortable  quarters  at  the  Gran  Sociedad, 
free  again  and  at  liberty  to  do  as  it  might  please  me,  1 
passed  some  two  or  three  hours  in  reading  a file  ot 
American  newspapers  which  had  just  been  received 


FREEDOM  A FOE  TO  SLEEP. 


315 


At  a late  hour  I retired  to  rest,  but  not  to  sleep.  From 
the  15th  of  September  to  the  21st  of  April,  more  than 
seven  months,  I had  been  a prisoner — I had  performed 
a toilsome  and  painful  march  exceeding  two  thousand 
miles — I had  seen  my  comrades  inhumanly  butchered 
around  me,  had  seen  them  die  from  exposure,  from 
hardship,  and  from  sickness — I had  passed  through  an 
endless  variety  of  scenes  the  most  exciting ; yet  all  this 
time  I had  slept  well,  except  when  illness  or  severe  in- 
clemency of  weather  prevented  it.  Now  I had  liberty 
and  every  comfort  at  my  command,  but  sleep  would 
not  visit  my  eyelids.  The  very  quiet  around  me,  in- 
stead of  being  a provocative  of  slumber,  seemed  to 
keep  me  awake.  I missed  the  hard  stone  or  earthen 
floors,  the  knowledge  that  comrades  were  strewn  close 
around  me,  the  clanking  of  chains — the  very  groans  of 
the  unfortunate  lazarinos  were  wanting.  I missed,  too, 
the  eternal  cries  of  our  guard — the  “ centinela  alerta  !” 
the  “ quien  vive  ?”  and  “ que  genie  ?”*  which  had  rung 

* These  are  the  common  watchwords  of  sentinels  on  duty  in  Mexico.  If 
any  one  approaches,  the  sentinel  shouts  aloud  “ quien  vive?” — who  lives,  or, 
rather,  who  comes  ? The  answer  expected  is  “ Republica ” — the  Republic. 
The  guard  next  cries  “ que  gente  ?” — what  people  ? — the  party  addressed,  if  a 
friend,  being  expected  to  answer  “ paisano ” — a countryman.  Not  a little 
startled  is  the  stranger,  on  arriving  in  Mexico,  as  he  hears  these  watchwords 
ringing  around  him — I know  that  on  one  occasion,  to  use  a nautical  phrase, 
I “was  thrown  all  aback”  by  the  cry.  I was  passing  the  palace  at  a late 
hour  of  the  night,  not  a living  being  within  sight  or  hearing,  and  no  sound 
breaking  the  stillness  save  that  dull  and  heavy  echo  which  follows  every 
footfall  upon  a pavement.  I had  approached  within  six  or  eight  yards  of  a 
sentry-box,  standing  directly  in  front  of  the  palace,  when  a sentinel,  who 
was  probably  asleep,  suddenly  awoke,  and  bringing  his  musket  to  a present, 
in  a hurried  manner  gave  the  well-known  “ quien  vive  ?”  So  sudden  were 
his  movements  that  I was  even  more  astonished  than  himself.  I flourished 
a cane  which  I held  in  my  hand  around  my  head,  as  if  to  ward  off  his  mus- 
ket, should  he  level  it,  and  not  thinking  of  the  proper  answer  immediately, 
ejaculated  “ An  Englishman !”  Whether  he  understood  me  or  not  I am  un 
able  to  say — I passed  on  without  farther  molestation  or  hinderance.  It  may 


316 


AN  UNMUSICAL  ITINERANT* 


in  our  ears  until  the  grating  sounds  had  fairly  become 
so  many  lullabies.  Thoughts  of  home,  of  liberty,  of 
once  more  visiting  the  friends  and  scenes  of  other  days, 
came  crowding  and  jostling  each  other  through  my 
mind  in  such  rapid  succession  that  my  head  was  in  a 
very  whirl  of  excitement.  Tired  nature  at  length 
achieved  the  mastery,  however,  and  towards  morning 
I fell  asleep. 

At  an  early  hour,  and  before  the  sun  was  yet  up,  I 
was  awakened  from  my  dreamy  slumbers  by  a distress- 
ing and  most  doleful  cry  in  the  street,  apparently  under 
the  window  of  the  second  story  in  which  I lodged.  To 
me  the  sounds  resembled  those  of  some  unfortunate 
human  being,  suffering  pain  the  most  acute — so  piteous 
were  the  cries,  that  I could  not  but  think  some  poor 
fellow  had  been  knocked  down  and  run  over  by  a 
coach,  or  met  with  some  serious  hurt,  and  with  broken 
limbs  was  groaning  aloud  for  assistance.  Arising  at 
once,  I opened  a glass  door  and  stepped  out  upon  the 
small  balcony  which  is  to  be  seen  under  the  windows 
of  the  better  houses  in  Mexico.  No  creature  whose 
appearance  indicated  pain  or  distress  could  I discover, 
as  I ran  my  eye  up  and  down  the  street  and  along  the 
side-walks  on  either  side.  Whence  could  the  accents 
of  suffering  proceed  ? In  the  street,  immediately  under 
the  balcony,  stood  a swarthy,  badly-dressed,  half  Indian 
half  Mexican  charcoal  vender,  his  entire  stock  in  trade 
strapped  to  his  back  in  a large,  square  basket.  Not  the 

appear  singular  that  I called  myself  “ an  Englishman to  account  for  it  I 
would  state  that  on  that  very  evening  I had  been  told  by  an  American,  while 
conversing  as  to  the  greater  respect  entertained  in  Mexico  for  the  English 
than  for  our  own  countrymen,  that  he  invariably  “ hailed  from  England” 
whenever  asked  as  to  his  origin.  With  this  true  but  mortifying  remark  fresh 
in  my  memory,  and  in  my  haste  to  say  something,  I gave  the  sentinel  that 


answer. 


A MORNING  SCENE. 


317 


most  remote  suspicion  had  I that  he  was  the  author  of 
the  piteous  cries,  which  had  first  startled  me  from  re- 
pose, until  the  fellow  raised  his  dark  but  subdued  eyes 
to  the  balcony  where  I was  standing,  and  drawled  out 
a word  which,  with  the  key  attached  to  his  back,  I now 
understood  to  be  “ carbon ” — charcoal.  Had  it  not  been 
that  I could  plainly  see  the  charcoal,  I certainly  never 
should  have  suspected  the  meaning  of  the  strange 
sounds  he  uttered  or  his  calling.  In  giving  articulation 
to  the  word  “ carbon”  alone,  the  crier  had  run  through 
the  entire  scale,  and  really  used  notes  enough  to  form 
an  Italian  bravura  of  no  inconsiderable  complication. 
Those  who  have  visited  Mexico  must  have  been  struck, 
at  first,  with  the  strange  and  most  discordant  cries 
which  assailed  their  ears  immediately  after  daylight. 

The  morning  was  bright,  beautiful,  and  balmy — the 
ushering  in  of  one  of  those  delightful  days  of  spring-time 
known  only  in  the  dry,  pure  climate  of  the  Mexican 
tierras  templadas — and  I lingered  upon  the  balcony  to 
survey  the  scene  below  and  around  me.  Crowds  of 
women,  of  every  class  and  nearly  every  shade,  were 
seen  either  going  to  or  returning  from  mass  at  the  dif- 
ferent churches,  their  rebosos  or  mantillas  coquettishly 
covering  their  heads  and  necks,  their  gait  inimitably 
graceful,  while  their  brilliant  yet  languishing  black  eyes 
were  wandering  from  object  to  object  with  those  indo- 
lent but  expressive  and  voluptuous  glances  which  go 
straight  to  the  heart — Castilian,  but  indescribable.  Wa- 
ter carriers,  with  their  large  jars  strapped  to  their  heads, 
were  hurrying  to  serve  their  morning  customers.  Fel- 
lows stooping  and  staggering  under  the  weight  of  huge 
coops  filled  with  chickens,  strapped  to  their  backs  after 
the  fashion  of  the  charcoal  baskets,  were  visiting  the 
houses  of  their  daily  patrons — threading  and  jostling 
D d 2 


318 


A DIVERSIFIED  SPECTACLE. 


their  way  through  the  crowds  of  females  who  at  this 
early  hour  thronged  the  principal  thoroughfares,  and 
crying  aloud  their  calling  as  they  passed.  Fair  doncel- 
las,  whose  complexion  bespoke  their  pure  Spanish  blood, 
were  tripping  along,  followed  closely  by  ancient  and 
vinegar-faced  duenas,  whose  calling  it  was  to  prevent 
the  charge  intrusted  to  them  by  prudent  mothers  from 
falling  in  love  or  running  away.  Fruitmen  and  wom- 
en, with  immense  baskets  of  luscious  oranges,  melons, 
sweet  limes,  bananas,  and  zapotes  resting  upon  their 
heads,  were  hastening  towards  their  stands  at  the 
market-places.  Mexican  girls,  apparently  half  dressed, 
were  watering  the  plants  and  flowers  with  which  the 
opposite  and  adjoining  balconies  were  adorned,  while 
inside  a window,  seated  cross-legged  upon  the  floor  and 
in  dishabille  exceeding  loose  and  slight  to  say  the  least 
of  it,  was  a young  lady  quietly  sipping  her  chocolate, 
ever  and  anon  turning  her  dark  eyes  with  a dreamy 
expression  towards  the  spot  where  I was  standing,  my 
presence  not  seeming  in  the  least  to  disconcert  her. 
Priests,  with  their  long,  shovel  hats,  monks,  gentlemen, 
leperos,  friars,  mendicants,  sisters  of  different  charitable 
and  religious  orders,  were  mingled  with  the  heteroge- 
neous currents  of  people  below  me — and  as  if  to  diver- 
sify a scene  already  strikingly  singular  in  the  eyes  of  a 
foreigner,  a gang  of  ragged  forzados*  from  some  of  the 
prisons,  strongly  chained  and  securely  guarded,  were 
sweeping  or  mending  a street-crossing  close  at  hand. 
Far  off,  in  the  distance,  a string  of  the  voluntarios  of 
whom  I have  often  made  mention — convicts  tied  togeth- 
er, and  on  their  way  to  som e presidio  to  be  manufactured 
into  soldiers — were  seen  escorted  onward  by  a detach- 

* Literally  galley-slaves,  but  by  a free  translation  made  to  denote  men 
forced  to  work  against  their  will. 


RENOVATION. 


319 


ment  of  dragoons  : to  enliven  and  still  farther  to  varv  the 
scene,  a troop  of  cavalry,  preceded  by  a dashing  and 
showy  officer  and  such  music  as  a badly-blown  trumpet 
produces,  were  riding  past.  Such  were  the  strangely- 
assorted  figures  and  groups  which  composed  the  pic- 
ture spread  before  me  the  first  morning  after  my  liber- 
ation, and  I continued  to  gaze  until  Mr.  Mayer  called 
at  my  door  with  inquiries  as  to  whether  I had  passed  as 
comfortable,  as  agreeable,  and  as  quiet  a night  as  I did 
while  in  San  Lazaro,  or  more  recently  in  Santiago. 

That  my  wardrobe,  after  a seven  months’  imprison- 
ment and  a journey  of  three  or  four  months  without  a 
trunk  or  portmanteau,  was  scanty  enough,  may  be  read- 
ily imagined ; but  my  friend  at  once  kindly  offered  me 
the  free  use  of  his,  and  I soon  found  myself  arrayed  in 
habiliments  more  befitting  my  new  position.  The  pur- 
chase of  a hat,  at  a shop  in  the  Portales  close  by,  still 
farther  improved  my  outward  man,  and  the  patronage 
I bestowed  upon  a shoemaker  in  the  neighbourhood,  to 
the  extent  of  a pair  of  boots,  advanced  the  work  of 
thorough  change  and  renovation  I had  commenced. 
One  thing  was  still  wanting — my  face  required  an  in- 
troduction to  a barber.  While  a prisoner,  I had  en- 
deavoured to  make  myself  as  little  like  myself  as  possi- 
ble, firmly  convinced  that  I should  recover  my  liberty 
in  no  other  way  than  by  escaping : in  order,  therefore, 
to  disguise  myself  completely,  I had  assiduously  culti- 
vated whiskers,  mustaches,  and  hair  enough  for  a for- 
eign prince,  or  even  the  Great  Mogul  himself.  Now  I 
had  no  farther  use  for  these  appendages,  and  to  be  re- 
lieved of  them  as  speedily  as  possible  I inquired  the  way 
to  a French  hair-dresser’s  in  the  Plateros,  or  street  in 
which  the  gold  and  silver  smiths,  fancy  and  jewelry 
dealers,  milliners  and  barbers  pursue  their  different  call- 


320 


MEXICAN  BEGGARS. 


ings.  No  sooner  had  I passed  through  the  hands  of  a 
lively  and  chattering  but  polite  little  Frenchman,  than 
such  was  the  change  that  I hardly  knew  myself.  True, 
my  acquaintance  with  my  own  face,  for  the  previous 
eleven  months,  had  been  extremely  limited,  looking- 
glasses  not  being  in  common  use  among  Texan  cam- 
paigners or  prisoners ; but  I had  had  an  occasional  op- 
portunity of  obtaining  a glimpse  of  myself,  and  now  that 
I had  undergone  the  shearing  and  shaving  operation,  the 
alteration  wrought  in  my  personal  appearance  was  not 
only  astonishing,  but,  I am  inclined  to  believe,  altogeth- 
er in  my  favour. 

While  retracing  my  steps  towards  the  Gran  Sociedad, 
I passed  a large  church,  in  front  of  which  a crowd  of 
wretched  beggars  had  already  taken  their  stand.  Such 
an  assortment  of  mendicants  I had  never  before  seen 
collected — such  squalid  misery  as  the  mass  presented — 
and  although  dreading  contact  with  the  unclean  and 
hideous  mendigos,  I could  not  resist  pausing  for  a few 
moments  to  examine  the  different  characters.  There 
were  the  lame,  the  halt,  and  the  blind — sickly  and  dis- 
torted childhood,  decrepit  and  palsied  old  age.  A de- 
formed living  skeleton,  with  a face  of  bluish,  ashy  pale- 
ness, and  borne  in  the  arms  of  a strong  man  who  doubt- 
less divided  such  small  pittance  of  copper  as  the  ghast- 
ly object  received,  was  stretching  forth  its  shrivelled 
and  skinny  arms  to  every  passer.  Armless  and  legless 
objects,  so  dressed  that  their  crippled  situation  must  at 
once  strike  every  beholder,  were  beseeching  alms  in  ac- 
cents most  piteous.  Mothers  were  holding  deformed, 
rickety,  pale,  and  sightless  children  up  to  the  public 
gaze,  imploring  the  prayers  and  blessings  of  every  saint 
in  the  long  calendar  upon  such  as  would  give  to  their 
unfortunate  offspring  a single  claco.  Wretched  crip- 


ARTIFICIAL  LAZARINOS. 


321 


pies,  their  arms  and  legs  contracted  and  twisted  out  of 
all  shape,  were  peering,  with  bloodshot  eyes  and  hag- 
gard faces,  at  the  current  of  pedestrians  as  they  passed, 
a gleam  of  satisfaction  almost  demoniacal  lighting  up 
their  countenances  as  some  more  charitable  person 
would  throw  a copper  into  their  hands.  No  disguise, 
no  concealment  of  their  deformities,  was  attempted — on 
the  contrary,  it  seemed  as  though  a full  exposure  of 
their  crippled  limbs  and  repulsive  distortions  was  the 
aim  of  all — as  though  they  were  expressly  “ got  up”  to 
set  off  their  natural  hideousness  in  the  strongest  possible 
light.  Such  is  but  a hurried  picture  of  a portion  of  the 
miserable  mendicants  congregated  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
church,  and  it  was  not  without  a shudder  that  I turned  into 
a short  street  leading  to  my  quarters.  In  former  times 
the  lepers  of  the  city  were  allowed  the  privilege  of  beg- 
ging, and  it  was  even  considered  fortunate  when  a poor 
family  numbered  a lazarino  in  its  fold.  The  wretch 
thus  afflicted  was  paraded  daily  at  some  conspicuous 
stand,  directly  in  the  way  of  the  passers,  and  the  alms 
he  or  she  was  sure  to  receive  would  feed,  clothe,  and 
support  a large  family  in  idleness.  Finding  the  number 
of  lazarinos  on  the  increase,  or  rather  shrewdly  suspect- 
ing that  many  of  the  wretches  were  but  counterfeits, 
made  up  by  the  use  of  blisters  and  other  applications, 
the  city  government  ordered  every  one  known  to  be 
afflicted  with  the  disease  to  San  Lazaro,  there  to  be 
provided  for ; but  this  course  was  not  resorted  to  until 
both  foreigners  and  the  most  respectable  Mexicans  had 
openly  complained  of  the  increase  of  the  repulsive  ob- 
jects to  be  met  at  every  turn,  and  the  disgrace  they 
brought  upon  the  city.  This  was  the  story  I heard  in  re- 
lation to  the  banishment  of  the  lepers  to  San  Lazaro — if 
it  be  true,  their  places  have  since  been  filled  by  wretches 


322 


A CIVILIZED  BREAKFAST. 


wanting  but  little  to  make  them  equally  loathsome  in 
appearance,  and  equally  objects  of  pity. 

Before  I reached  the  Gran  Sociedad,  I.  met  several 
small  parties  of  soldiers.  A moment’s  reflection  told 
me  that  I was  free,  and  no  longer  subject  to  their  watch- 
ful control  ; yet  I could  not  feel  altogether  at  ease  in 
close  proximity  with  these  fellows.  I was  in  moment- 
ary expectation,  although  there  was  not  the  least  cause 
for  it,  that  some  one  of  them  would  lay  his  hand  upon 
my  shoulders,  and  ask  me  how  it  happened  that  I was 
“ out  without  a guard  and  several  days  elapsed  before 
I could  divest  myself  of  the  idea  that  I was  still  in  some 
way  a prisoner  — before  I could  feel  and  believe  that  I 
was  indeed  at  liberty. 

An  excellent  breakfast  was  served  up  immediately 
after  my  return  to  the  Gran  Sociedad,  Mr.  Ellis  and 
several  other  gentlemen  being  already  in  attendance  to 
partake  of  it.  Most  ample  justice  did  I and  the  two 
companions  of  my  recent  imprisonment  to  the  rich  and 
dainty  viands,  for  it  was  now  almost  a year  since  we 
had  seen  a meal  so  inviting  spread  before  us,  and  hard- 
ly half  a dozen  times  within  that  year  had  we  seen  all 
those  trifling  necessaries  known  in  civilized  countries  as 
knives,  forks,  spoons,  chairs,  a table,  and  other  useful 
and  comfortable  et  casteras,  considered  by  the  majority 
of  my  readers,  perhaps,  indispensable  in  every  well- 
regulated  household.  Our  coffee-,  too,  was  of  rich  qual- 
ity and  flavour,  while  excellent  claret  was  cooled  by  ice 
brought  from  the  adjoining  snow-capped  mountains. 
The  remembrance  of  these  luxuries,  trifling  as  they 
might  have  appeared  had  I never  been  deprived  of 
them,  still  clings  to  me.  Those,  and  those  only,  who 
have  for  months  spent  their  time  upon  the  prairies,  and 
amid  scenes  kindred  to  those  through  which  we  had 


VISIT  TO  THE  PRISONERS. 


323 


passed,  are  able  to  appreciate  the  fall  blessings  of  civi- 
lization and  the  thousand  and  one  comforts  which  be- 
fore they  heeded  not. 

When  breakfast  was  over,  I called  upon  Mr.  Paken- 
ham,  the  English  minister,  in  company  with  Mr.  Mayer. 
Two  or  three  of  my  fellow-prisoners  had  claimed  Brit- 
ish protection,  and  I wished  to  relate  to  the  minister  of 
their  government,  in  person,  some  of  the  circumstances 
connected  with  their  arrest  and  imprisonment,  which 
would  show  the  justice  of  their  claims  in  the  strongest 
possible  light.  I found  Mr.  Pakenham  a plain  and  un- 
ostentatious but  agreeable  and  gentlemanly  man,  dispo- 
sed to  aid  his  countrymen  in  every  way.  A few  days 
after  this  visit,  through  his  intercession,  my  friends  were 
released. 

A small  party  of  us,  procuring  one  of  the  heavy 
coaches  of  the  city,  next  visited  Santiago — the  misera- 
ble quarters  from  which  we  had  been  removed  the  night 
before.  So  great  had  been  the  change  wrought  in  my 
appearance  by  Mr.  Mayer’s  wardrobe,  aided  by  the 
French  barber  in  the  Plateros,  that  many  of  my  former 
fellow-prisoners  with  difficulty  recognised  me — a cir- 
cumstance I mention  as  showing  how  thoroughly  I 
could  have  disguised  myself  had  I attempted  the  escape 
which  I contemplated.  After  promising  the  unfortu- 
nate fellows  another  visit,  we  again  turned  our  backs 
upon  Santiago,  but  before  entering  the  coach  a couple 
of  Mexican  girls  came  running  towards  us  to  offer  their 
congratulations  upon  our  release.  These  kind-hearted 
creatures  were  of  the  lower  class,  fruit  girls,  who  had 
formed  strong  attachments  for  two  of  the  Texan  pris- 
oners, and  who  never  left  the  vicinity  of  Santiago  du- 
ring the  day.  Wherever  the  prisoners  were  taken  they 
were  to  be  seen,  carrying  their  blankets,  washing  and 


324 


VISIT  TO  SAN  LAZARO. 


mending  their  clothes,  and  performing  every  act  of 
kindness  within  their  power.  They  now  not  only  ap- 
peared much  rejoiced  at  our  liberation,  but  pressed  us 
with  questions  as  to  the  probability  of  the  other  prison- 
ers being  shortly  released.  After  flattering  them  with 
hopes  we  were  but  too  fearful  would  prove  false,  we 
put  some  silver  into  their  hands,  and  then  returned  to 
the  city  to  dine. 

In  the  afternoon,  after  I had  purchased  several  little 
articles  of  clothing  of  which  I knew  my  companions  in 
San  Lazaro  to  be  sadly  in  need,  and  adding  a few  bun- 
dles of  puros  with  which  they  might  beguile  the  dreary 
hours  of  their  imprisonment,  a small  party  of  us  rode 
out  to  that  establishment.  The  sergeant  of  the  guard  at 
first  positively  denied  us  admission,  saying  that  express 
orders  to  that  effect  had  been  received;  but  a dollar 
stealthily  slipped  into  his  hand,  not  only  opened  his 
heart,  but  the  hospital  doors  at  once.  The  steward  of 
the  establishment  next  made  some  objections  to  our  en- 
trance into  the  interior — but  one  of  my  companions, 
who  spoke  his  language  fluently,  soon  overcame  his 
scruples,  and  we  were  permitted  to  pass  without  farther 
hindrance. 

As  I entered  the  long  and  gloomy  hall  in  which  I had 
passed  some  two  months,  the  unfortunate  lepers  came 
hobbling  from  their  cots,  crowded  around  me,  and  at 
the  same  time  expressed  not  a little  satisfaction  at  see- 
ing me  in  the  possession  of  liberty.  My  former  Texan 
companions,  too,  were  overjoyed  to  see  me  once  more  ; 
for  the  strange  and  unseasonable  hour  chosen  for  my 
removal,  the  strong  guard  that  accompanied  me  from 
San  Lazaro,  combined  with  the  appearance  of  the  litter 
and  the  mystery  in  which  the  whole  affair  was  shroud- 
ed, had  raised  suspicions  in  their  minds  that  I had  at 


A MEXICAN  SENOEA. 


325 


least  been  thrown  into  one  of  the  lowest  of  the  Mexican 
prisons,  if  no  worse  fate  had  befallen  me.  I believe 
that  they  were  entirely  ignorant  of  all  the  circumstances 
until  I called  upon  them  in  person.  After  distributing 
our  little  presents,  and  promising  to  make  them  another 
visit,  we  left  the  hospital,  the  sergeant  hurrying  our  de- 
parture. Whether  the  fellow  thought  we  had  got  our 
dollar’s  worth,  or  whether  he  washed  a farther  bribe,  is 
known  only  to  himself. 

Our  next  call  was  at  the  house  of  a Mexican  lady — 
the  same  who  had  visited  me  while  in  San  Lazaro,  and 
who  had  sent  me  the  present  of  fish  I have  mentioned 
in  a former  chapter.  She  informed  me  that  she  had 
heard  something  of  my  good  fortune  with  pleasure,  and 
was  now  doubly  gratified  that  I had  called  upon  her 
thus  early  to  confirm  the  report  of  my  release.  At 
home,  we  found  the  sefiora  a lively  creature,  chatty  and 
of  most  agreeable  manners,  with  a dashing,  spirited  way 
of  expressing  herself  peculiarly  pointed.  An  anecdote 
is  told  of  her  which  goes  far  to  show  her  character. 
During  one  of  the  more  recent  revolutions  which  have 
distracted  Mexico,  two  or  three  gentlemen  wrho  had 
espoused  the  cause  she  favoured  sought  refuge,  during 
a turn  in  affairs  against  them,  in  her  house,  anxious  to 
escape  the  dangers  to  be  encountered  in  the  streets.  So 
far  as  mere  words  went,  they  were  most  zealous  and 
unflinching  supporters  and  advocates  of  certain  princi- 
ples ; but  w'hen  blows  came  and  balls  whistled,  the} 
wrere  not  to  be  seen  at  the  post  of  peril.  Their  party  had 
met  wdth  various  reverses,  and,  as  they  thought,  every- 
thing was  going  directly  against  them,  when  suddenly 
the  roar  of  cannon  and  the  rattling  of  musketry  without 
convinced  them  that  their  fighting  friends  were  once 
more  struggling  manfully  for  the  ascendancy.  “ Those 

VoL.  II. — E E 


326 


A SPIRITED  WOMAN. 


are  our  cannon  ! those  are  our  cannon  !”  shouted  one  of 
the  inflated  patriots  from  his  hiding-place,  at  the  same 
time  clapping  his  hands  and  skipping  for  joy.  “ Now  we 
are  gaining  ground  again  !” 

“ We  /”  retorted  the  spirited  seiiora,  with  ineffable 
scorn.  “ Fine  patriots,  you,  to  be  sneaking  and  skulk- 
ing here,  among  a parcel  of  women,  when  your  friends 
are  bravely  exposing  themselves  in  the  streets  for  the 
principles  you  are  so  loud-mouthed  in  advocating,  but 
which  you  have  not  the  courage  to  stand  up  and  pro- 
tect. Would  that  I were  a man.  You  would  see  me 
at  those  cannon  whose  music  so  delights  your  ears — 
not  secreted  among  helpless  women,  and  spending  my 
time  and  breath  in  idle  words.  If  those  are  your  can- 
non, why  don’t  you  go  and  help  work  them,  like  true 
patriots  and  brave  men  ?” 

Such  was  the  character  given  us  of  the  seiiora,  and 
I certainly  passed  a very  agreeable  hour  at  her  house. 
Not  a little  is  she  celebrated  in  Mexico  as  a singer,  and 
on  this  occasion  she  favoured  us  with  a number  of 
Spanish  ballads  in  style  most  exquisite,  accompanying 
her  rich  and  powerful  voice  on  the  piano.  The  visit 
over,  I returned  once  more  to  the  Gran  Sociedad,  amid 
a shower  of  rain  which  flooded  the  streets,  and  at  an 
early  hour  retired  to  try  what  success  I could  have  in 
sleeping  the  second  night  after  my  liberation. 


BEGGARS  EARLY  AT  WORK. 


327 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

An  early  Morning  Walk. — Beggars  at  their  Work. — The  Plaza  Mayor. — The 
Cathedral  and  Stone  of  the  Calendar.— Strange  Belief. — Interior  of  the 
Cathedral. — Its  Appearance. — Filthy  State  of  the  Establishment. — Agency 
of  a Pair  of  new  Boots  in  preventing  an  Examination  of  the  Cathedral. — 
Shops  of  the  Portales. — The  Streets  of  Mexico. — Another  Visit  to  Santia- 
go.— The  “True  Blue.” — More  of  Lieutenant  Hull.  — Encounter  with 
Major  Howard. — His  Disguise. — Particulars  of  the  daring  Escape  of  Cap- 
tain Hudson  and  Major  Howard. — -The  Italian  Opera. — Castellan. — An- 
other Encounter  with  Major  Howard. — Farther  Particulars  of  his  Escape. 
— Temerity  of  Captain  Hudson. — Mexican  Pickpockets. — Their  Dexterity. 
— Mexican  Modes  of  Salutation. — Cordiality  of  Greeting. — Anecdote  of  a 
Meeting  with  a fair  Mexican. — The  Mystery  solved. — An  excellent  Trait 
in  Mexican  Character. — Hospitality  of  the  Lower  and  Middle  Classes. — 
Their  Benevolence  towards  the  Sick. — The  present  Priesthood  in  Mexico. 
—Domestic  Relations  of  the  Padres. — Influence  of  the  Priests. — Their  Re- 
luctance in  resigning  Power. 

With  body  and  mind  strengthened  and  refreshed  I 
arose  the  next  morning,  for  although  some  of  the  ob- 
jects and  scenes  I had  beheld  during  the  day  passed  in 
review  before  the  eye  of  the  slumbering  mind,  my  sleep 
had  been  sound  and  unbroken.  Hastily  dressing,  as  I 
had  resolved  upon  attending  early  mass,  I descended  to 
the  street  and  took  the  direction  towards  one  of  the 
principal  churches. 

The  beggars  of  Mexico  must  be  an  industrious  class, 
and  very  early  risers,  for  before  even  the  sun  had  made 
his  appearance  I found  them  up  and  stirring — many  of 
them  already  at  their  stands  in  front  of  the  religious  es- 
tablishments to  be  met  at  almost  every  turn,  and  with 
outstretched  arms  reciting  their  well-conned  prayers  for 
charity.  Determined  upon  going  to  the  celebrated  ca- 
thedral at  once,  as  the  headquarters  where  I should 
probably  see  more  than  at  any  other  place  devoted  to 


328 


STONE  OF  THE  CALENDAR. 


the  showy  religion  of  the  inhabitants,  I passed  two  or 
three  churches  of  most  imposing  appearance  with  mere- 
ly an  examination  of  their  exteriors.  A short  walk 
brought  me  to  the  Plaza  Mayor,  or  principal  square,  on 
the  eastern  side  of  which,  and  surmounted  by  two  or- 
namented towers,  rises  the  noble  Cathedral  of  Mexico 
I paused,  for  a few  moments,  to  examine  the  great 
Stone  of  the  Calendar,  resting  against  the  southwestern 
corner  of  the  cathedral.  It  is  of  immense  size,  weigh- 
ing more  than  twenty  tons,  the  entire  face  of  it  sculp- 
tured with  strange,  but  well-executed  hieroglyphics. 
By  means  of  the  carved  figures  upon  this  stone — some 
twelve  of  which,  it  is  pretended,  represent  the  signs  of 
the  zodiac — the  ancient  inhabitants  are  said  to  have  di- 
vided and  computed  time  — the  years  into  months, 
weeks,  and  days,  and  the  latter  into  hours — and  even  to 
this  day  the  traveller  is  told,  and  with  much  appearance 
of  sincerity,  that  the  ignorant  Indians  can  tell  the  hour 
of  the  day  to  a minute  by  examining  this  singular  calen- 
dar. They  might  as  well  say  that  the  natives  can  tell 
the  time  by  consulting  the  face  of  a common  burr  mill- 
stone, or  a pair  of  hay-scales. 

Satisfied  that  I could  make  nothing  of  the  hiero- 
glyphics, which  were  every  way  as  unintelligible  as  the 
figures  on  a Chinese  tea-chest,  I turned  and  entered  the 
cathedral.  The  walls,  paintings,  statues,  balustrades, 
and  different  ornaments,  were  rich  even  to  magnifi- 
cence— the  floor  dirty,  covered  with  kneeling  groups 
of  all  classes  and  conditions  at  their  devotions — while 
an  odour,  disagreeable  and  prison-like,  caused  by  the 
filthiness  characteristic  of  all  Mexican  churches,  per- 
vaded the  spacious  and  imposing  interior,  perceptible 
even  above  the  fumes  of  burning  incense.  Dogs  were 
either  lying  asleep  in  different  parts,  or  walking  about 


BAFFLED  BY  BOOTS. 


329 


so  noiselessly  that  it  almost  seemed  as  though  they  were 
fearful  of  disturbing  the  deep  stillness  of  the  immense 
apartment — a stillness  broken  only  by  the  hum  of  half- 
muttered  prayers  and  the  low  pealing  of  an  organ  the 
position  of  which  I could  not  discover.  Anxious  to  ex- 
amine the  farthest  recesses  of  the  cathedral,  to  note  its 
paintings,  statues,  gilding,  costly  panelling,  and  exceed- 
ing richness  of  adornment,  I dolled  my  hat  and  ad- 
vanced towards  the  interior.  The  first  step  I took 
drew  the  eyes  of  those  immediately  in  front  towards 
me  ; the  second  attracted  the  attention  of  a still  greater 
number  of  the  kneeling  worshippers.  I now  found  that 
the  boots  I had  purchased  tlje  day  before  were  yet  un- 
broken, and  sent  up  a loud  creak  from  the  stone  floor 
at  every  step.  I attempted  to  advance  on  tiptoe — the 
creaking  seemed  to  grow  louder  the  more  I endeavour- 
ed to  prevent  it.  I paused,  with  the  hope  that  I might 
advance  under  cover  of  the  noise  made  by  the  arrival 
of  a party  of  fresh  worshippers  who  were  approaching 
— they  were  either  barefooted,  or  else  their  well-worn 
shoes  gave  forth  no  sound.  One  more  attempt  I made ; 
but  it  was  as  unsuccessful  as  the  others — every  step 
appeared  to  draw  additional  attention,  and  even  the 
dogs  seemed  to  eye  me  rebukingly  as  a disturber  of  the 
solemn  stillness  which  reigned  around.  It  may  seem  a 
simple  matter,  but  I was  compelled  to  put  off  an  exam- 
ination of  this  noble  establishment  solely  on  account  of 
a pair  of  new  and  creaking  boots ; for  finding  that  I 
could  not  advance  without  annoying  the  assembled  con- 
gregation, I retraced  my  steps  and  left  the  cathedral  as 
quietly  and  silently  as  possible. 

By  this  time  the  stores  and  shops  in  the  Portales,  on 
the  opposite  side  of  the  plaza,  were  open,  the  gay  Mex- 
ican sarapes  and  other  gaudy  merchandise  displayed  in 
E e 2 


330 


A PRISON  NEWSPAPER. 


front  presenting  a brilliant  and  showy  appearance.  The 
walls  of  many  of  the  houses,  in  this  quarter  of  the  city, 
bear  indisputable  evidence  of  the  various  revolutions 
which  have  distracted  the  country  and  paralyzed  its 
energies,  for  the  marks  of  cannon  balls  are  still  plainly 
visible,  let  the  eye  range  where  it  will.  After  getting  lost 
once  or  twice,  and  travelling  three  or  four  blocks  out  of 
my  way  in  consequence  of  what  I conceived  to  be  the 
wrong  directions  I received  from  such  of  the  passers  as 
I asked  for  information,  I finally  reached  the  Gran  So- 
ciedad  in  season  for  breakfast.  In  Mexico  the  more 
important  and  principal  streets  have  a new  name  for 
every  square — a single  straight  and  continuous  thor- 
oughfare having  perhaps  a dozen  different  titles — and 
hence  the  difficulty  the  foreigner  at  first  meets  in  find- 
ing a location. 

During  the  forenoon  I made  another  visit  to  Santi- 
ago, in  company  with  several  Americans.  Before  leav- 
ing the  convent,  one  of  the  prisoners,  a young  man  named 
Grover,  presented  me  with  a copy  of  a neatly- written  pa- 
per, published  weekly  in  Santiago,  entitled  the  “ True 
Blue.”  It  contained  a regular  report  of  the  proceedings 
of  the  21st  of  April — speeches,  toasts,  songs  and  all. 
Among  the  contributors  were  Mr.  Grover  himself,  a 
young  man  named  Mabry, # and  others,  and,  in  newspa- 

* I have  been  told  that  Mr.  Mabry,  after  his  return  to  Texas,  obtained  a 
midshipman’s  warrant  in  the  navy  of  that  country,  and  that  he  was  lost  on 
board  the  ill-fated  war-schooner  San  Antonio,  Captain  Seger.  It  may  be  re- 
membered by  the  reader,  that  a man  with  nearly  the  same  name — Mayby — 
lost  his  life  when  Lieutenant  Hull  was  killed,  being  a member  of  the  unfor- 
tunate party  first  massacred  by  the  Caygiias.  Since  the  first  volume  of  this 
work  passed  through  the  hands  of  the  stereotyper,  I have  learned  farther 
particulars  in  relation  to  the  melancholy  deaths  of  Lieutenant  H.  and  his 
men.  Mr.  Phillips,  a young  man  attached  to  the  Santa  Fe  Expedition,  who 
saw  the  whole  affair,  informs  me  that  the  party  did  not  retreat  an  inch, 
as  I have  previously  stated,  but  on  the  contrary  simultaneously  threw  them- 


A FRIEND  IN  DISGUISE. 


331 


per  parlance,  the  “whole  affair  was  exceedingly  well 
got  up.”  Again  promising  our  friends  another  visit  be- 
fore leaving  the  country,  we  entered  our  Mexican  coach 
and  returned  to  our  quarters  in  the  city. 

It  was  while  walking  through  one  of  the  principal 
and  most  densely-thronged  streets,  and  in  the  middle  of 
the  day,  that  I met  my  old  companion,  Major  Howard, 
of  whose  escape  from  Puebla  I had  already  heard,  but 
of  whose  present  whereabout  I was  ignorant.  He 
was  disguised,  it  is  true  ; for  his  naturally  light  and 
curly  hair  was  coloured  to  a more  than  Mexican  black- 
ness, and  combed  and  pomatumed  down  until  it  lay  as 
straight  as  a Quaker’s ; yet  there  was  no  mistaking  his 
florid  complexion  and  his  walk,  and  I crossed  the  street 
and  accosted  him  at  once.  He  informed  me  that  both 
himself  and  his  companion  in  escape,  Captain  Hudson, 
although  a price  had  been  set  upon  their  heads,  were 
then  boarding  openly  at  a Mexican  meson,  as  a place 
where  they  would  be  least  likely  to  be  suspected  or 
sought,  and  that  they  were  both  determined  to  see  the 

selves  from  their  horses  on  discovering  the  approach  of  the  Indians,  formed 
the  animals  in  a circle,  and  each  man  knelt  inside  to  await  the  charge  of 
their  enemies.  Suddenly,  and  as  if  by  magic,  the  Caygiias  were  on  every 
side,  their  heavy  buffalo-hide  shields  held  before  them,  and  after  a short  but 
desperate  struggle,  the  Texarts  were  overpowered  by  the  fearful  odds,  and 
slain.  The  names  of  the  men  thus  massacred,  in  addition  to  those  of  Lieu- 
tenant Hull  and  Mr.  Mayby  already  mentioned,  were  Sergeant  Flenner, 
Dunn  and  Woodson.  Many  errors,  but  principally  of  omission,  have  of 
course  occurred  in  this  narrative.  On  leaving  Austin,  I provided  myself 
with  a note-book,  in  which  I entered  not  only  every  little  incident  on  each 
day’s  march,  but  the  course,  the  distance  travelled,  as  near  as  it  could  be 
kept  by  dead  reckoning,  with  a description  of  the  country,  soil,  and  general 
appearance.  Of  this  book  I was  robbed  by  Salezar,  and  hence  I have  been 
compelled  to  depend  almost  entirely  upon  memory  in  making  up  my  “ trav- 
el’s history.”  The  reader  who  will  but  reflect  for  a moment,  will  see  the 
disadvantages  under  which  I have  laboured,  and,  I am  confident,  will  over- 
look and  excuse  any  discrepancies,  omissions,  or  errors  which  must  neces- 
sarily occur  in  a work  written  under  the  circumstances. 


332 


BRAVING  DANGER. 


“ sights”  in  the  city  before  attempting  a return  to  Tex- 
as or  the  United  States. 

At  the  Italian  Opei'a,  whither  I had  gone  to  see  “ II 
Templario ,”  on  the  same  evening  I again  met  Major 
Howard,  listening  to  the  rich,  full  voice  of  the  Castel- 
lan with  much  apparent  satisfaction.  Between  the  acts, 
in  the  coffee-room  attached  to  the  theatre,  I once  more 
met  him,  in  conversation  with  a Mexican  officer,  and 
on  taking  him  aside,  and  remonstrating  with  him  upon 
the  risk  he  ran  in  thus  exposing  himself,  he  contended 
that  the  best  way  to  avoid  suspicion  was  to  frequent 
the  most  public  places,  and  mix  with  the  Mexicans 
themselves.  He  then  gave  me  a short  account  of  the 
manner  in  which  himself  and  his  companion  effected 
their  escape.  On  account  of  either  real  or  feigned, 
sickness,  they  had  been  quartered  in  the  hospital  at 
Puebla,  where,  for  some  weeks,  they  were  allowed  to 
visit  the  town  every  night  upon  parole.  So  long  as 
this  privilege  was  granted  them,  they  had  no  opportu- 
nity to  escape,  as  they  could  not  break  their  faith  with 
the  officers  who  had  treated  them  thus  generously ; but 
on  the  night  in  question,  through  some  whim  for  which 
they  could  not  account,  they  were  told  that  they  could 
not  leave  the  hospital  walls  without  a guard  of  four 
men.  With  this  guard  they  sallied  into  the  streets,  de- 
termined not  to  return  if  a shadow  of  opportunity  to 
escape  offered. 

They  went  at  once  to  a restaurat  which  they  had  fre- 
quently visited,  their  watchful  guard  attending  them. 
But  a short  time  elapsed  before  they  contrived  to  turn 
the  attention  of  the  soldiers  into  an  adjoining  room,  and 
no  sooner  was  this  effected  than  they  slipped  through  a 
side  door  or  window,  and  hastily  fled  to  the  house  of  a 
generous  Mexican  with  whom  they  had  become  ac- 


FORTUNE  FAVOURS  THE  BOLD.  333 

quainted.  At  this  place,  although  a large  reward  was 
offered  for  their  apprehension,  they  remained  safely  se- 
creted some  ten  days.  Their  next  movement  was  to- 
wards the  city  of  Mexico,  by  the  regular  daily  stage. 
This  conveyance  they  left  when  within  some  ten  or  fif- 
teen miles  of  the  city,  and  striking  across  the  country, 
they  were  enabled  to  reach  a factory  village  in  safety. 
Here  the  foreigners,  to  whom  they  made  known  their 
situation,  provided  them  with  passports  to  enter  the 
city,  and  taking  one  of  the  canals  they  were  soon  com- 
fortably housed  at  one  of  the  mesones  of  the  capital. 
Such  are  the  brief  particulars  of  their  daring  escape 
from  Puebla  and  arrival  in  safety  at  the  city  of  Mexico. 

If  possible,  Captain  Hudson  exposed  himself  even 
more  than  did  his  comrade.  Not  content  with  openly 
visiting  all  the  walks,  curiosities,  public  amusements, 
churches,  and  other  general  resorts  of  the  population, 
he  clambered  into  one  of  the  towers  of  the  cathedral, 
where  he  either  carved  or  picked  his  name  in  the  most 
conspicuous  place  he  could  find ; and  as  if  this  was  not 
enough,  he  even  added  “Of  the  Texan  Santa  Fe  Pio- 
neers” at  the  end  of  it,  and  this  when  a heavy  reward 
was  hanging  over  his  head. 

Fortunately  both  these  young  men  reached  the  Uni- 
ted States  and  Texas  in  safety,  although  the  risks  they 
were  compelled  to  run  were  almost  incredible.  They 
travelled  to  the  seacoast  in  the  stage,  entering  Puebla  in 
open  day  and  the  hospital  from  which  they  had  escaped 
being  but  a few  yards  from  the  Casa  de  Diligencias 
where  they  were  obliged  to  stop  and  sleep  one  night. 
They  even  saw,  standing  around  the  hotel  on  the  arri- 
val of  the  stage,  several  officers  with  whom  they  had 
become  well  acquainted  during  a confinement  of  nearly 
two  months  in  the  place ; but  they  passed  boldly  by 


334 


MEXICAN  PICKPOCKETS. 


them,  and  under  the  disguises  they  had  procured  were 
not  suspected.  Such  is  a short  account  of  the  escape 
of  these  officers — an  escape  well  conceived  and  bravely 
carried  through  from  first  to  last. 

After  sitting  out  the  opera,  which  as  a whole  was 
well  performed,  we  returned  to  our  quarters.  I now 
found  that  during  the  day  I had  been  robbed  of  two 
handkerchiefs  and  a penknife,  besides  part  of  a bundle 
of  puros,  but  how,  when,  or  where  was  a mystery.  I 
had  exercised,  as  I thought,  all  due  caution — had  kept 
an  eye  or  a hand  on  my  pockets  whenever  there  seem- 
ed to  be  the  least  chance  for  the  light-fingered  gentry, 
who  infest  churches,  theatres,  and  thoroughfares  alike  in 
the  great  city  of  Mexico,  to  ply  their  calling — but  with  all 
my  watchfulness  I had  been  eased  of  evei’ything  save 
a lead  pencil,  a little  loose  change  which  was  in  my  vest 
pocket,  and  the  clothes  on  my  back.  On  informing  my 
friends  of  these  depredations,  they  appeared  to  think  me 
peculiarly  fortunate,  inasmuch  as  to  save  anything  was 
of  itself  an  exceedingly  rare  occurrence  with  a stranger. 
As  a “ general  average,”  they  said  that  the  robbers 
should  at  least  have  taken  my  hat  and  what  little  silver 
I had  ! This  was  certainly  consoling ; but  to  guard 
against  the  ladrones  in  future  I determined  upon  carry- 
ing nothing  with  me  that  the  rascals  might  covet.  The 
Mexican  corlabolsas,  or  pickpockets,  have  the  name  of 
being  the  most  adroit  in  the  world,  and  from  my  little 
experience  I should  say  they  had  well  earned  the  repu- 
tation. At  all  events,  I do  not  intend  to  rob  them  of 
their  foul  fame.- 

For  three  or  four  days  after  my  release — in  fact, 
during  the  whole  of  the  time  I was  in  the  city  at  liberty 
— I was  continually  meeting  with  Mexicans  of  my  ac- 
quaintance— officers  who  had  been  attached  to  our 


PLEASANT  SALUTATIONS. 


335 


guard  at  different  places.  They  all  appeared  much  re- 
joiced on  seeing  that  I had  regained  my  freedom,  man- 
ifesting their  pleasure  by  warmly  embracing  me,  meet 
me  where  they  would.  This  custom  of  throwing  the 
left  arm  around  each  other,  while  the  right  hands  are 
clasped  as  with  us,  is  common,  I believe,  all  over 
Mexico,  alike  when  two  men,  or  two  women,  or  two 
of  the  opposite  sexes  meet  who  are  well  acquainted ; 
and  perhaps  this  cordial  mode  of  reception  from  the  fe- 
males of  the  country  may  be  considered  as  one  of  the 
strongest  of  thoge  ties  which  certainly  bind  the  Amer- 
icans and  English  to  the  land  of  Montezuma.  The 
cold  and  phlegmatic  Anglo-Saxon,  after  a residence  of 
some  year  or  two  in  Mexico,  leaves  it  with  regret ; for 
there  is-  a grace,  an  ease,  a fascination,  and  a cordial- 
ity of  greeting  among  the  senoritas  of  that  country 
which  cannot  be  forgotten.  The  American  or  Eng- 
lishman reflects  upon  the  stiffness  and  restraint  imposed 
upon  the  actions  of  his  fair  countrywomen  by  cold,  con- 
ventional rules — he  remembers  the  distant  bow,  the  for- 
mal shake  of  the  hand,  with  which  he  will  be  greeted 
on  his  return,  and  contrasts  them  with  his  daily  saluta- 
tions from  the  dark-eyed  daughters  of  the  sunny  land  in 
which  he  is  sojourning.  The  result  is  altogether  in 
favour  of  the  latter. 

It  is  indeed  a delightful  thing  to  be  ever  greeted 
with  the  most  cordial  freedom,  when  we  know  that  that 
freedom  is  entirely  removed  from  forwardness — to  have 
the  person  encircled  by  arms  which  are  faultless  in  form 
— and  a man  feels  that  it  is  difficult  to  tear  himself  away 
from  a people  whose  manners,  in  their  daily  intercourse, 
are  in  every  respect  more  full  of  warmth  and  kindness 
than  those  of  his  own  countrymen,  and  countrywomen, 
too ; for  while  even  the  men  are  not  wanting  in  natural 


336 


A STREET  ADVENTURE. 


and  easy  politeness,  the  Mexican  senoras  have  a frank- 
ness of  deportment,  a kindness  and  singleness  of  dispo- 
sition, which  captivate  the  natives  of  colder  climes,  and 
frequently  did  I meet  with  countrymen  whose  love  for 
their  fatherland  had  become  completely  estranged  by 
the  fascinations  of  female  society  in  Mexico.  The 
women  of  that  country,  when  married  to  any  of  the 
Anglo-Saxon  race,  have  the  reputation  of  making  the 
best  and  most  affectionate  wives ; and  scattered  through 
Mexico  may  be  found  innumerable  instances  where  for- 
eigners, induced  by  no  other  motives  than  the  superior 
charms  and  excellent  domestic  endowments  of  the 
women,  have  settled  permanently  and  are  rearing  fam- 
ilies. 

I have  been  led  to  these  remarks  by  a little  circum- 
stance which  occurred  a few  mornings  after  I had  re- 
gained my  liberty.  While  walking  at  an  early  hour 
through  one  of  the  principal  streets,  wondering  whence 
came  the  incessant  current  of  passers,  and  staring  at 
the  many  strange  sights  which  strike  the  traveller  on 
first  visiting  one  of  the  most  magnificent  cities  of  the 
world,  I noticed  a young  and  pretty  girl  approaching,  who 
seemed  to  gaze  at  me  with  marked  attention.  Dressed 
somewhat  after  the  fashion  of  the  Poblana  girls — a cos- 
tume I have  already  described — her  neat  and  graceful- 
ly-worn reboso  but  partially  concealed  her  head,  face, 
and  well-turned  shoulders,  and  I might  have  bestowed 
more  than  an  ordinary  passing  look  upon  the  fair  gazer, 
even  had  she  not  so  intently  eyed  me.  Her  face  cer- 
tainly seemed  familiar — like  that  of  one  I had  previous- 
ly seen : but  in  a country  where  there  is  so  gi’eat  a re- 
semblance between  the  women — where  black  hair,  dark 
and  lustrous  eyes,  great  regularity  of  features,  and  the 
same  fashion  of  dress  are  almost  universal — it  is  diffi- 


THE  AUTHOR  PUZZLED. 


337 


cult  to  recognise  a face  until  one  becomes  well  acquaint- 
ed. On  arriving  directly  in  front  of  me,  the  girl  paused 
for  a moment,  gazing  earnestly  and  intently  in  my  face ; 
and  at  a loss  what  to  make  of  conduct  so  singular,  I 
also  stopped,  anxious  to  see  how  this  pantomime  was  to 
end.  The  last  look  of  the  girl  seemed  to  satisfy  her  ; 
for  suddenly  casting  her  reboso  from  her  shoulders,  while 
it  still  remained  hanging  from  her  head,  she  threw  both 
arms  around  my  neck  with  even  more  than  ordinary 
Mexican  abandon,  and  embraced  me  with  as  much  cor- 
diality as  though  I had  been  one  of  her  dearest  friends 
or  nearest  relatives.  That  she  was  making  herself  ex- 
tremely familiar,  on  an  acquaintance  which  I felt  as- 
sured must  be  very  limited,  was  my  first  impression  ; 
but  not  to  be  outdone,  either  in  politeness  or  cordiality, 
I too  threw  my  arms  around  her  after  her  own  fashion, 
and  acted,  to  say  the  least  of  it,  as  though  meeting  with 
one  of  my  oldest  and  most  esteemed  acquaintances. 

In  the  streets  of  New-Orleans  or  New-York  such  a 
meeting  would  doubtless  attract  some  little  attention — 
not  so  in  Mexico.  The  passers  went  by  almost  with- 
out deigning  to  notice  us,  and  glad  was  I that  they  did 
so  ; for  I could  not  satisfy  my  own  mind  that  the  open 
street  was  altogether  a befitting  place  for  the  enactment 
of  such  a scene.  But  who  was  my  fair  friend,  and  why 
did  this  accidental  meeting  afford  her  so  much  gratifi- 
cation ? These  were  questions  I now  asked  myself.  I 
placed  a hand  on  either  shoulder  of  the  girl,  gently  dis- 
engaged myself,  and  then  intently  scrutinized  her  fea- 
tures with  the  hope  of  recognising  one  who  must  cer- 
tainly be  entitled  to  an  acquaintanceship.  I had  an  in- 
distinct recollection  of  having  seen  her  somewhere,  but 
at  what  place  or  under  what  circumstances  it  was  im- 
possible to  recall  to  mind.  The  girl,  however,  was  far 
Vol.  II.  — F F 


338 


THE  MYSTERY  SOLVED. 


from  imagining  the  dilemma  I was  in,  but  on  the  con- 
trary addressed  me  with  as  much  familiarity  as  though 
we  had  known  each  other  from  childhood,  expressing, 
over  and  over  again,  the  great  pleasure  it  afforded  her 
to  see  me  once  more  alive  and  at  liberty,  and  then  al- 
luding to  the  time  when  I was  first  attacked  by  the 
small-pox  with  not  a little  feeling.  This  last  remark 
was  a clew  to  the  whole  mystery  ; for  I now  at  once 
recollected  that  she  was  the  sister  of  one  of  the  ser- 
geants of  our  guard,,  and  had  frequently  brought  her 
brother  his  dinner  at  the  place  where  we  were  confined 
when  I was  ill  with  the  disease  I have  just  spoken  of. 
In  common  with  all  the  women  of  the  country,  she  had 
manifested  great  solicitude  in  our  behalf,  had  expressed 
her  ardent  hopes  that  we  might  all  recover  our  liberty, 
and  in  addition  to  this,  had,  on  several  occasions,  kindly 
invited  me  to  partake  of  such  food  as  she  had  brought 
her  brother.  To  repay  her,  in  some  way,  I had  made 
her  a trifling  present ; but  it  was  one  she  had  not  for- 
gotten, as  was  fully  proved  by  the  cordial  manner  in 
which  she  greeted  me  on  my  first  meeting  her  in  the 
street  some  two  months  after.* 

As  I was  about  shaking  hands  to  leave  her,  for  I did 
not  much  care  about  going  through  another  scene  quite 
so  familiar  as  was  that  at  our  first  meeting,  she  invited 
me  to  visit  her  at  her  mother’s  residence  before  leaving 
the  country.  With  artless  simplicity  she  told  me  that 
her  relatives  were  poor — in  circumstances  humble — but 

* Let  not  the  reader  understand  that  an  adventure  of  this  kind — a meeting 
so  cordial — is  a common  or  every-day  occurrence  in  the  streets  of  Mexico,  al- 
though, as  I have  stated,  it  seemed  to  attract  little  notice  from  the  passers. 
The  girl  was  probably  much  astonished  and  highly  pleased  to  meet  with  one 
at  liberty  whom  she  had  last  seen  sick  and  in  prison,  and  in  the  warmth  of 
her  heart  threw  a greater  degree  of  cordiality  into  her  actions  at  this  first 
meeting  than  is  common  even  with  the  impulsive  women  of  her  country. 


POOR  BUT  NOT  PROUD. 


339 


that  I should  be  welcome,  and  that  her  mother  would 
feel  pride  if  the  stranger  would  but  condescend  to  cross 
her  lowly  threshold.  Promising  to  call  upon  her  I turn- 
ed from  the  spot,  and  the  next  moment,  after  repeating 
for  the  third  time  the  exclamation,  “ Ah ! sehor,  cuanto 
me  alegro  de  vet  a V.  afuera  de  esa  maldita  carcel  !”* 
she  was  lost  to  sight  in  the  throng  of  passers  which 
crowded  the  street. 

The  circumstance  of  the  girl’s  telling  me,  openly,  of 
the  humble  sphere  and  station  in  which  she  moved  and 
lived,  brings  to  mind  one  excellent  trait  in  the  charac- 
ter of  the  Mexican  people — with  them  poverty  is  cer- 
tainly no  crime,  is  never  insulted.  The  unfortunate 
mendigo,  or  beggar,  is  seldom  or  never  spurned  from 
the  door  of  the  rich  ; but  on  the  contrary  his  misfortunes 
entitle  him  at  least  to  respect  if  not  to  alms,  and  almost 
invariably  both  are  bestowed.  No  concealment  of  pov- 
erty is  attempted — the  poor  Mexican  family,  unlike  that 
of  the  American  or  English  in  similar  circumstances, 
never  impoverishes  itself  still  farther  by  forced  endeav- 
ours to  conceal  its  real  necessities.  Of  such  hospitality 
as  the  Mexican  dwelling  affords  the  stranger  is  always 
invited  to  partake  ; and  while  the  master  frankly  admits 
his  poverty,  he  at  the  same  time  uses  it  as  an  excuse 
for  the  scantiness  of  the  repast  to  which  he  invites  his 
guest.  The  stranger  is  not  told  that  his  presence  is 
unexpected ; that  the  butcher  has  neglected  to  furnish 
meat,  with  a threat  to  patronise  him  no  more ; that  the 
bread  has  just  given  out  and  that  there  is  no  time  to 
bake  or  send  for  a supply,  or  any  of  the  thousand  and 
one  excuses  a false  and  foolish  pride  invents  in  other 
lands  to  conceal  its  indigence — nothing  of  the  kind  is 
resorted  to.  “ Somos  pobres ” — we  are  poor  people — is 

* Ah ! sir,  how  much  it  pleases  me  to  see  you  out  of  that  bad  prison  ! 


340 


MEXICAN  CHARITY. 


the  honest  admission  made  by  the  Mexican  to  cover  any 
deficiency  in  his  entertainment.* 

As  an  offset  to  their  many  vices,  the  Mexicans  cer- 
tainly possess  charity  and  hospitality  in  an  eminent  de- 
gree— virtues  which  cover  a multitude  of  sins,  and 
which  are  not  only  professed  but  practised  in  that  coun- 
try. The  early  Spanish  missionaries,  in  their  endeav- 
ours to  convert  the  Indians  to  their  faith,  appealed  to 
the  heart  and  sense  through  the  medium  of  the  eye — 
spread  before  the  natives  the  pomp  and  pageantry  of 
their  imposing  religion  with  hands  far  from  niggardly — ■ 
and  thus  first  estranged  them  from  their  idols  and  many 
of  their  more  absurd  ceremonies.  Then,  as  I have  be- 
fore stated,  by  allowing  them  to  ingraft  some  of  their 
own  superstitions  upon  the  rites  of  the  Catholic  religion, 
they  were  enabled  to  bring  them  over  to  Christianity. 
Such  the  primary  efforts,  and  such  the  results. 

The  early  fathers  next  zealously  inculcated  that  heav- 
enly spirit  of  charity  which  teaches  that  we  must  clothe 
the  naked,  feed  the  hungry,  and  relieve  the  sick  and  dis- 
tressed ; and  with  such  untiring  ardour  did  they  impress 
this  article  of  their  creed  upon  the  natives,  that  it  took 
root,  and  has  increased  and  continued  to  the  present 
day.  For  evidence,  we  have  but  to  look  at  the  hospi- 
tals for  the  sick  in  body  and  mind  scattered  through 
the  country,  to  the  institutions  for  relieving  the  dis- 
tresses of  the  unfortunate,  and  to  the  different  orders  of 
sisters  of  charity,  those  meek  handmaidens  of  benevo- 

* Let  it  be  understood  that  I am  now  speaking  of  the  middle  and  lower 
orders.  A concealment  of  poverty  is  no  singular  thing  among  such  of  the 
higher  class  as  may  have  been  reduced,  and  I have  little  doubt  that  many  a 
family  party  may  be  seen  rolling  along  the  Alameda  in  the  evening,  in  their 
carved  and  gilt  coach,  which  is  driven  to  great  strait  to  procure  a breakfast 
the  next  morning  at  all  in  keeping  with  the  ostentation  they  outwardly  as- 


sume. 


MEXICAN  PRIESTHOOD. 


341 


lence,  whose  eves  are  ever  seeking  the  couch  of  sick- 
ness and  whose  hands  are  ever  raised  to  succour  with  a 
beneficence  that  knows  no  tiring.  It  is  not  in  Mexico 
alone  that  this  holy  feeling  of  charity  towards  the  sick 
and  helpless  exists  ; but  wherever  the  religion  of  Rome 
is  known  there  do  we  find  the  same  active  benevolence 
exerted,  the  same  attention  to  the  wants  of  the  suffering, 
and  well  would  it  be  were  other  denominations  of  Chris- 
tians to  pattern  after  the  Catholics  in  all  that  pertains  to 
pity  and  compassion  towards  their  sick  and  needy  fel- 
low-creatures— in  plain  terms,  if  they  would  make  fewer 
professions  and  enter  more  into  the  real  practice  of 
charity. 

I cannot  close  this  subject  or  this  chapter  without  a 
few  words  in  relation  to  the  present  priesthood  in  Mex- 
ico— the  faults  of  the  holy  brotherhood  I shall  allude  to 
with  reluctance,  for  from  one  and  all  I never  received 
other  than  the  kindest  and  most  benevolent  treatment. 
With  whatever  intolerant  zeal  they  may  preach  to  their 
congregations  against  the  heretics,  and  with  whatever 
vividness  they  may  paint  the  purgatory  to  which  all 
out  of  the  fold  of  the  true  Church  are  destined  after 
death,  the  Protestant  stranger  will  seldom  find  other 
than  a hospitality  the  most  munificent  within  the  gates 
of  the  padres.  He  will  find  them,  too,  men  of  liberal 
and  enlightened  views,  well-educated  and  entertaining 
companions,  tolerant  and  charitable,  extremely  good 
livers,  and  disposed  to  an  indulgence  in  many  of  the 
luxuries  and  vanities  of  this  lower  world — in  short,  he 
will  find  that  their  numerous  departures  from  the  rule 
of  conduct  prescribed  for  them  sit  as  easy  upon  their 
consciences  as  do  their  gowns  upon  their  backs. 

With  the  style  of  living  and  domestic  relations  of  the 
Catholic  priest  we  are  taught  to  associate  all  that  is  ab- 

F f 2 


342  THEIR  DOMESTIC  ARRANGEMENTS. 

stemious,  so  far  as  relates  to  worldly  affairs,  and  that  such 
is  the  case  in  Ireland  and  in  the  United  States,  I know 
full  well  ; but  he  who  believes  that  such  a state  of  things 
exists  among  the  brotherhood  of  Mexico  is  either  wo- 
fully  ignorant  or  wilfully  blind.  At  his  table,  as  I have 
stated  above,  the  Mexican  padre  is  a bon  vivant,  de- 
lighting in  the  good  things  of  this  life  ; and  however 
strongly  he  may  inculcate  upon  his  flock  the  necessity 
of  strictly  observing  all  fasts,  his  appetite  frequently  be- 
gets an  obliviousness  which  turns  every  day  alike  into 
one  of  feasting  while  at  his  own  table.  Another  thing : 
if  all  the  male  portion  of  the  community  in  Mexico 
were  attached  to  the  priesthood,  centuries  would  elapse 
before  the  race  would  become  extinct  unless  some  tre- 
mendous revolution  in  the  morals  of  the  brotherhood 
should  take  place  ; for  it  is  just  as  well  known  that 
they  contrive  to  break  the  bonds  of  celibacy  strictly 
enjoined  upon  them,  as  it  is  that  such  bonds  are  pre- 
scribed by  the  Church  of  Rome.  Were  the  pope  to  be 
put  in  a clairvoyant  state,  and  willed  to  look  into  the 
domestic  habits  and  relations  of  his  agents  in  Mexico, 
a precious  set  of  backsliding  padres  he  would  find. 

That  the  good  padres  of  that  country  have  their  com- 
paheras,  or  female  companions,  is  well  known,  not 
only  to  foreigners,  but  to  their  own  people,  and  equally 
well  known  is  it  that  they  invariably  make  their  selec- 
tions with  a discrimination  which  shows  that  they  are 
most  excellent  judges  of  female  beauty.  They  rear 
families,  too,  and  with  great  care  and  attention ; and 
although  the  unaccepted  and  more  ill-favoured  portion 
of  the  women  constituting  his  flock  may  think  their 
padre  very  naughty,  he  findg  means  to  close  their 
eyes  and  mouths  upon  his  peccadilloes,  and  all  goes  on 
smoothly. 


THEIR  POLICY. 


343 


I trust  that  the  kind-hearted  curas,  from  whom  my- 
self and  companions  received  so  many  favours  and  at- 
tentions, will  give  me  full  pardon  for  thus  exposing 
some  of  their  weaknesses  and  frailties — absolution  for 
my  tell-tale  sins  : they  will  not  attempt  to  deny  any- 
thing I have  said  of  them.  They  will  also  excuse  me, 
when  I say  to  and  of  them,  that  they  are  a class  of  en- 
lightened, generous,  good-natured,  discerning,  hospita- 
ble, hail-fellow-well-met,  penance-hating,  women-loving 
men,  prone  toward  the  enjoyments  of  the  table,  holding 
fasts  in  great  scorn,  addicted  to  occasional  gambling 
and  wine-bibbing,  and  pretending  no  ignorance  in  mat- 
ters of  cock-fighting  and  sports  of  a like  nature  ; more 
particularly  when  I repeat  that  I entertain  the  best 
feelings  towards  one  and  all  of  them.  In  describing 
them,  I have  not  “ set  down  aught  in  malice,”  but,  on 
the  contrary,  have  spoken  of  them  precisely  as  I found 
them. 

The  influence  and  power  exerted  by  the  priests  of 
Mexico,  over  the  ignorant  and  superstitious  population, 
are  immense — a fact  as  well  known  to  them,  and  even 
better,  than  to  the  intelligent  foreigners  who  have  visit- 
ed the  country.  They  know,  too,  that  the  population 
they  govern  is  led  and  kept  in  subjection  by  impostures 
the  most  flimsy,  by  deception  the  most  transparent — for 
not  to  know  this  would  be  proving  them  fools,  a title 
they  do  not  deserve.  They  farther  know,  that  in  order 
to  sustain  themselves  in  their  past  and  present  position, 
to  retain  their  supremacy  and  their  fat  benefices,  they 
must  persevere  in  their  impostures  and  continue  to  gull 
their  simple  flocks — to  hold  the  down-trodden  mass  in 
the  same  ignorance  in  which  they  have  so  long  been 
kept — and  hence  their  open  intolerance  towards  all 
other  sects,  and  their  zealous  care  that  no  other  religion 


344 


CATHOLICISM  IN  MEXICO. 


than  their  own  shall  be  preached  or  inculcated  in  the 
land.*  The  almost  countless  number  of  ecclesiastics  in 
Mexico  are  well  aware  that  their  expensive  system  of 
church  domination  inevitably  tends  to  diminish  the  re- 
sources and  retard  the  prosperity  and  advancement  of 
the  country ; but  it  is  not  in  the  nature  of  men  holding 
power,  whether  Protestant  or  Catholic,  political  or  reli- 
gious, to  resign  it  willingly,  or  give  up  any  office  of  in- 
fluence or  emolument  already  within  their  grasp,  be- 
cause it  conflicts  with  the  interests  or  liberties  of  the 
people  ; and  to  expect  the  priests  of  Mexico  to  abandon 
their  sway  or  abdicate  their  ascendancy  would  be  to 
suppose  them  more  than  men.  All  reformation  of  ex- 
isting evils,  either  of  Church  or  State,  must  come  from 
the  people  themselves : whether  the  Mexican  nation 
will  ever  be  brought  to  know,  feel,  and  exert  itself 
against  the  powerful  ecclesiastical  and  military  estab- 
lishments which  are  pressing  and  keeping  it  down,  is  a 
matter  extremely  problematical. 

The  Catholic  reader  must  not  construe  these  remarks 
into  an  attack  upon  his  religion,  for  such  is  far  from  my 

* No  other  jeligion  than  the  Catholic  is  allowed  or  preached  up  to  this 
day  in  Mexico,  but  a greater  degree  of  tolerance  is  manifested  towards  the 
professors  ol  other  creeds  now  than  formerly.  I have  read  in  some  book— 
but  its  author  I cannot  call  to  mind — of  a debate  in  the  Mexican  Senate  in 
relation  to  the  allowing  Protestant  foreigners  a burial-place.  No  such  privi- 
lege was  permitted 'them  until  within  the  last  ten  or  fifteen  years,  and  it  was 
only  through  the  urgent  remonstrances  of  the  then  British  minister  that  the 
point  was  conceded.  One  of  the  Mexican  Senators,  when  the  subject  was 
debated  in  Congress,  made  remarks  something  like  the  following  : “ There 
is  one  of  four  things  we  must  allow  these  heretics  who  may  happen  to  die  in 
our  land:  we  must  eat, pickle  and  send  them  out  of  the  country, throw  them 
in  the  fields,  or  bury  them  under  ground.  To  eat  them  would  be  most  re- 
pugnant— not  one  of  my  colleagues  would  taste  the  flesh  of  a heretic ; to 
send  them  out  of  the  country  would  be  expensive ; to  throw  them  in  the 
fields  would  be  pestilence-breeding,  and  otherwise  exceedingly  offensive.  I 
move,  therefore,  as  the  easiest,  cheapest,  safest,  and  every  way  the  best  course 
for  us  to  adopt,  is  to  allow  them  a burial-place”— and  the  motion  was  carried- 


CATHOLICISM  IN  MEXICO. 


345 


intention— towards  both  faith  and  its  professors  I enter- 
tain no  other  feelings  than  of  respect.  My  object  has 
been  to  draw  a rough  picture  of  Catholicism  in  Mexico, 
and  the  power  and  means  by  which  it  is  sustained,  and 
in  so  doing  I have  confined  myself  strictly  to  the  truth. 
In  its  essentials  the  Romish  religion  in  Mexico  is  doubt- 
less the  same  as  it  is  in  the  United  States,  or  in  any 
country  where  toleration,  that  firm  and  enduring  found- 
ation of  all  political  liberty,  is  known  ; but  in  its  ad- 
ministration there  is  as  much  difference  between  the 
two  as  there  is  between  the  religion  of  the  Pilgrims  of 
New-England  and  that  of  the  Hindoos  or  New  Zeal- 
anders. 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Mode  of  passing  our  Time. — Herr  Cline. — Mexico  by  Moonlight. — Note  from 
Madame  Calderon.  — Rambles  over  Mexico. — A Dance.  — The  Jarabe. — 
Change  of  Scene. — A murdered  Soldier. — Touching  Instance  of  Grief. — 
More  Moonlight.  — “Quien  Vive?”  — A staggering  Padre.  — Release  of 
Americans  through  the  Exertions  of  General  Thompson.  — Visit  to  Tacu- 
baya. — Cruel  and  mysterious  Murder  of  Egerton  and  his  Mistress. — Visit 
to  the  Acordada. — A Show-case  of  Murder. — Gloomy  Entrance  to  the  Acor- 
dada. — Some  Description  of  the  Interior. — Release  of  a Female  Prisoner. 
— Mr.  Navarro. — Story  of  his  Wrongs. — Robbery  and  Crime  in  the  Acor- 
dada.— Texan  Prisoners  within  its  dreary  Walls.  — Take  Leave  of  Mr. 
Navarro.  — Farther  Description  of  the  Prison.  — Encounter  with  Dutch 
Broom  Girls.  — An  old  Acquaintance  in  the  Broom  Line.  — The  Ballad- 
mongers  badly  patronised.— Evangelistas,  or  Letter-writers  of  Mexico. — 
Their  singular  Calling.  — Stock  in  Trade  of  the  Evangelista.  — Mexican 
Coaches  and  Mexican  Coachmen. — Another  Visit  to  Santiago. — More  of 
the  Mexican  Coachmen. 

Our  days,  from  the  21st  to  the  27th  of  April,  were 
passed  in  roaming  over  the  city  and  environs,  in  rides 
through  the  Alameda  and  Paseo,  and  in  occasional  visits 


346 


MEXICO  BY  MOONLIGHT. 


to  our  companions  still  in  confinement  at  San  Lazaro 
and  Santiago,  while  the  evenings  we  whiled  away  at 
the  Italian  Opera,  at  the  monte  rooms  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  Plaza,  where  heaps  of  doubloons  dazzle  and  allure 
gambling  adventurers,  at  fandangoes,  in  midnight  walks 
over  the  city,  or  mayhap  in  seeing  the  feats  of  a com- 
pany of  pantomimists  under  the  direction  of  the  celebra- 
ted Herr  Cline,  who  had  engaged  the  Italian  Opera 
House  on  alternate  nights. 

No  city  in  North  America,  or  perhaps  in  the  wide 
world,  can  vie  with  Mexico  as  seen  under  the  softening 
influence  of  moonlight — can  equal  the  sweet  and  silent 
grandeur  with  which  her  palaces,  churches,  and  innu- 
merable establishments,  rich  in  architectural  beauty  and 
exterior  painting,  are  clothed  by  the  subdued  beams  of 
the  queen  of  night — and  on  one  occasion  I spent  hours  in 
wandering  at  random  through  her  streets,  completely 
absorbed  by  the  beauty  of  the  scene.*  Attracted  by 

* Madame  Calderon  draws  a graphic  picture  of  Mexico  by  moonlight.  She 
says  that  it  is  the  most  flattering  medium  through  which  the  city  can  be 
viewed,  with  its  broad  and  silent  streets,  and  splendid  old  buildings,  whose 
decay  and  abandonment  are  softened  by  the  silvery  light ; its  ancient  church- 
es, from  which  the  notes  of  the  organ  occasionally  come  pealing  forth,  min- 
gled with  faint  blasts  of  music  borne  on  the  night  wind  from  some  distant 
procession  ; or  with  the  soft  music  of  a hymn  from  some  neighbouring  con- 
vent. The  white-robed  monk — -the  veiled  female — even  the  ragged  beggar, 
add  to  the  picture  : by  daylight  his  rags  are  too  visible.  Frequently,  as  the 
carriages  roll  along  to  the  opera,  or  as,  at  a late  hour,  they  return  from  it, 
they  are  suddenly  stopped  by  the  appearance  of  the  mysterious  coach,  with 
its  piebald  mules,  and  the  Eye  surrounded  by  rays  of  light  on  its  panels  ; 
a melancholy  apparition,  for  it  has  come  from  the  house  of  mourning,  proba- 
bly from  the  bed  of  death.  Then,  by  the  moonlight,  the  kneeling  figures  on 
the  pavement  seem  as  if  carvpd  in  stone.  The  city  of  Mexico  by  moonlight 
—the  environs  of  Mexico  at  daybreak — these  are  the  hours  for  viewing  both 
to  advantage,  and  for  making  us  feel  how 

“ All  but  the  spirit  of  man  is  divine.” 

Such  is  the  picture  drawn  of  thissplendidcity,as  seen  under  the  influence 
of  moonlight,  by  the  author  of  “ Life  in  Mexico” — a picture  the  strict  fidelity 
of  which  I can  attest. 


A DANCE-HOUSE. 


347 


the  sounds  of  a mandolin,  coming  from  an  open  door  in 
a street  near  the  market-place,  I first  took  the  precau- 
tion to  gather  such  small  amount  of  silver  as  I was  pos- 
sessed of  at  the  time  into  my  hands,  placed  my  hands  in 
my  pockets,  and  entered  the  apartment.  The  dimly- 
lighted  room  was  rendered  even  more  obscure  by  a 
cloud  of  cigar  smoke  ; yet  I could  plainly  discern  the 
faces  of  some  dozen  swarthy  and  blanketed  leperos  and 
the  same  number  of  scantily-clad  girls,  watching  the 
movements  of  a party  of  dancers  who  were  executing 
one  of  the  rude  jarabes  of  the  country  — a species  of 
dance  consisting  chiefly  of  shuffling  with  the  feet  and 
singing,  and  at  the  termination  of  which  the  males  are 
expected  to  treat  their  partners  to  refreshments  in  the 
way  of  dulces.*  One  of  the  girls  politely  made  room 
for  me  upon  a rude  bench,  but  my  stay  was  short — the 
fumes  of  cigar  smoke,  and  the  odour  of  pulque  and  mes- 
cal, drove  me  from  the  apartment  at  the  conclusion  of 
the  first  dance. 

While  passing  a house  but  a few  steps  from  this  haunt 
of  revelry,  and  certainly  within  hearing,  I saw  through  the 
open  door  the  face  of  a corpse,  lying  in  a coarse  box  or 
coffin  upon  a table,  and  with  some  half  dozen  long  can- 
dles burning  on  either  side.  Two  or  three  females,  their 
faces  covered  with  their  hands  as  if  in  deep  grief,  were 
seated  upon  the  floor  near  the  head  of  the  table,  while  a 
single  soldier  was  unconcernedly  smoking  on  a rough 
chest  in  one  corner  of  the  apartment.  Wishing  to  as- 
certain the  circumstances  attending  the  death  of  the 
man  in  the  coffin,  and  to  see  any  ceremony  that  might 
take  place,  I noiselessly  entered  the  room.  The  soldier 
informed  me  that  the  unfortunate  man  upon  the  table 

* Jarabe  means,  [ believe,  some  species  of  sweetmeat,  so  that  it  can  be 
called  the  “Dance  of  the  Sweetmeats.’’ 


348 


AN  ASSASSINATION. 


was  a comrade  of  his,  who  had  been  stabbed  by  a girl 
some  two  hours  before  in  a fit  of  jealousy.  The  knife 
had  reached  the  soldier’s  heart,  killing  him  instantly, 
and  one  of  the  women  on  the  floor  was  sobbing  audibly 
her  gi'ief  that  he  had  died  without  the  presence  of  a 
priest  and  unconfessed.  Whether  she  was  his  mother 
or  sister  I did  not  learn — she  lifted  not  her  face  while  I 
was  in  the  room. 

The  lateness  of  the  hour,  the  sorrowful  spectacle  be- 
fore me,  with  the  attendant  train  of  thoughts  upon  the 
insecurity  of  life  in  Mexico  the  scene  called  up,  now  ad- 
monished me  to  hasten  towards  my  quarters  at  the 
Gran  Sociedad.  The  moon  was  riding  high  in  heaven 
as  I once  more  found  myself  in  the  streets,  and  shed- 
ding her  mild  and  subdued  light  upon  the  innumerable 
religious  establishments — now  kissing,  with  sweet  ra- 
diance, a towering  dome  or  steeple  ; and  anon,  as  some 
wandering  cloud  would  brush  hastily  across  her  face, 
flitting  and  spectral  shadows,  as  of  misshapen  giants, 
would  stalk  silently  across  the  plazas  and  thoroughfares, 
and  dissolve  or  lose  themselves  as  the  vapory  intruder 
which  had  created  them  resigned  its  momentary  sway. 
The  air  was  soft,  pure,  and  balmy — such  an  air  as 
would,  in  many  countries,  tempt  thousands  from  their 
couches  ; yet  the  streets  of  Mexico  were  deserted — 
that  stillness  which  can  be  heard,  that  indefinable  hum 
which  seems  to  be  the  breath  of  nature  while  asleep, 
reigned  on  every  side — and  I even  essayed  to  advance 
on  tiptoe,  as  if  fearful  of  awaking  the  deep  loneliness  of 
night. 

The  startling  “ quien  vive  ?”  of  a sentinel,  after  I had 
walked  two  or  three  squares  without  meeting  a single 
living  being,  was  a relief  as  I neared  the  Plaza  Mayor. 
When  within  this  noted  square,  the  clattering  of  half  a 


AN  OVERBURDENED  PRIEST. 


349 


dozen  horsemen,  dashing  over  the  rough  pavement  in 
hot  haste  as  though  to  arrest  some  midnight  assassin  or 
quell  some  drunken  brawl,  was  really  a welcome  sound 
— the  previous  quiet  had  been  so  intense  that  it  was 
painful. 

I crossed  the  Plaza  and  entered  the  Plateros.  Ten 
steps  farther,  I encountered  two  servants  assisting  home- 
ward a staggering  priest.  Charity  induced  me  to  hope 
that  the  padre  was  lame  or  infirm,  but  the  strong  light 
of  the  moon  constrained  me  to  believe  that  he  had  been 
dining  or  supping  with  some  holy  brother,  and  that  his 
potations  had  been  other  than  of  chocolate  or  water. 
A walk  of  some  few  minutes  brought  me  once  more  to 
my  quarters,  and  still  another  five  minutes  added  me  to 
the  list  of  sleepers  within  the  Gran  Sociedad ; but  the 
memory  of  that  moonlight  walk  awoke  with  me  in  the 
morning,  and  the  remembrance  of  the  scenes  which  I 
beheld  that  night  is  vivid  as  was  their  reality. 

On  the  morning  of  the  27th  of  April  we  were  re- 
joiced to  learn  that  three  of  our  comrades  in  imprison- 
ment— S.  B.  Sheldon,  Allensworth  Adams,  and  W. 
Tompkins — had  been  released  through  the  interference 
of  General  Thompson.  The  liberated  men  were  soon 
comfortably  quartered  in  the  city,  and  their  wants  pro- 
vided for. 

During  the  afternoon  of  the  same  day  a party  of 
some  six  or  eight  of  us,  composed  of  Englishmen  and 
Americans,  visited  the  garden  of  an  Italian  at  Tacu- 
baya,  who  kept  a ninepin  alley  and  provided  refresh- 
ments for  such  foreign  guests  from  the  city  as  might 
visit  the  little  village.  Before  we  returned  to  the  city, 
an  English  artist  of  great  celebrity  in  Mexico,  a land- 
scape painter  named  Egerton,  was  pointed  out  to  us  by 

VoL.  II.— G G 


350 


MURDER  OF  MR.  EGERTON. 


one  of  his  countrymen,  who  also  related  several  anec- 
dotes referring  to  the  many  attainments  of  the  artist. 

While  breakfasting  the  next  morning,  with  an  Eng- 
lish gentleman  in  the  city,  we  were  shocked  with  the 
intelligence  that  Egerton,  together  with  a female  with 
whom  he  lived  as  his  wife,  and  who  possessed  rare  per- 
sonal attractions  and  endowments  as  a landscape  paint- 
er, had  been  cruelly  murdered  during  the  night.  The 
whole  city  was  at  once  thrown  into  the  highest  excite- 
ment by  the  startling  news,  and  to  increase  still  farther 
the  commotion,  many  Mexican  families,  who  had  made 
Tacubaya  their  country  residence,  packed  their  furni- 
ture with  all  haste,  and  with  their  families  returned  im- 
mediately into  the  city,  as  if  fearful  of  being  massacred. 

It  seems  that  on  the  evening  of  the  murder,  Egerton 
and  the  unfortunate  woman  were  walking  in  a large 
garden  attached  to  their  residence,  as  was  their  custom, 
and  that  while  thus  engaged  they  were  attacked  by 
some  person  or  persons  unknown,  and  both  slain.  The 
body  of  Egerton  was  found  some  distance  from  that  of 
his  companion,  run  through  apparently  with  a sword, 
while  by  his  side  was  a walking-stick  much  hacked, 
rendering  it  evident  that  he  had  fought  to  the  last  and 
made  a stout  resistance.  The  body  of  the  female,  who 
was  on  the  point  of  becoming  a mother,  was  also  stab- 
bed and  otherwise  horribly  mangled,  and  this  induced 
the  belief  that  she  too  had  resisted  to  the  last.  Her  face 
was  scratched  and  otherwise  disfigured,  a piece  was 
bitten  from  her  breast,  her  person  had  been  abused,  and 
the  perpetrator  of  the  outrage,  as  if  fearing  that  she 
might  not  be  recognised,  had  written  her  name  upon  a 
piece  of  paper  and  pinned  it  to  a fragment  of  the  dress 
that  still  remained  upon  her  body,  most  of  it  having  been 
torn  off  in  the  struggle  which  ended  in  her  death.  The 


A FEARFUL  MYSTERY. 


351 


formation  of  the  letters  was  plainly  English,  a circum- 
stance which  went  directly  to  prove  that  the  murder 
was  neither  planned  nor  matured  by  Mexicans  ; and  to 
corroborate  this  belief,  the  money  and  watch  of  Eger- 
ton,  and  the  jewelry  of  his  companion,  were  untouched 
— rendering  it  certain  that  the  act  was  not  one  of  the 
native  robbers,  but  of  deep  revenge.  Among  the  thou- 
sand reports  and  rumours  circulating  in  Mexico  the  next 
morning,  was  one  to  the  effect  that  the  murdered  man 
had  a wife  and  two  children  in  England,  and  that  some 
two  years  previous  he  had  visited  his  native  land  with 
the  intention  of  bringing  them  to  Mexico ; but  instead 
of  returning  with  his  wife,  he  had  seduced  and  enticed 
away  the  murdered  woman,  who  had  since  lived  with 
him  as  his  wife.  Rumour  also  had  it  that  the  latter  was 
engaged  to  be  married  to  a young  man  in  England  at 
the  time  of  her  elopement  with  Egerton.  Among  the 
many  speculations  afloat  among  the  countrymen  of  the 
unfortunate  couple,  the  one  which  received  the  most 
credence  was,  that  the  murder  had  been  planned  in 
England,  and  effected  by  some  acquaintance  of  the 
woman,  as  a matter  of  revenge.  There  was  also  a 
story  that  Egerton  had  been  involved  in  a love  affair 
with  some  fair  Mexican ; but  this  report  received  little 
credence.  The  British  Minister,  Mr.  Pakenham,  exert- 
ed himself  to  the  utmost  to  ferret  out  and  arrest  the 
perpetrators,  in  which  he  was  assisted  by  General  Va- 
lencia and  the  Mexican  police  and  authorities  ; but  up  to 
this  time  no  clew  to  the  authors  of  the  horrible  outrage 
has  been  discovered,  and  the  whole  affair  remains  a 
profound  mystery. 

Determined,  if  possible,  to  gain  admission  into  the 
noted  Acordada,  and  have  one  interview  with  my  old 
companion,  Antonio  Navarro,  before  leaving  Mexico, 


352 


VISIT  TO  THE  ACORDADA. 


on  the  morning  after  the  murder  I have  just  hastily  de- 
scribed I obtained  the  assistance  of  a young  and  influ- 
ential Englishman,  who  spoke  confidently  of  his  being 
able  either  to  coax  or  bribe  his  way  into  the  interior  of 
the  prison.  Arrived  in  front,  my  companion  pointed, 
through  a barred  window,  to  a species  of  form  built 
upon  an  inclined  plane,  on  which  the  bodies  of  such  per- 
sons as  have  been  murdered  during  the  night  are  ex- 
posed in  the  morning,  so  that  they  may  be  recognised 
by  their  friends  ! With  a shudder  at  the  thoughts  of 
scenes  of  misery  and  deep  wo  which  must  almost  daily 
be  enacted  in  front  of  this  revolting  show-case  of  mur- 
der, by  the  wives,  sisters,  mothers,  and  other  relatives 
of  the  victims,  we  passed  onward. 

After  a few  words  of  parley  with  a guard  of  soldiers 
stationed  at  the  main  entrance,  we  were  admitted  with- 
in the  gloomy  walls  and  commenced  the  ascent  of  a 
flight  of  solid  but  much-worn  steps.  Either  side  we 
found  lined  with  ragged  and  squalid  wretches,  doubtless 
in  some  way  related  to  the  prisoners,  and  lounging 
about  with  the  hope  of  being  allowed  to  visit  them. 
Arrived  at  the  head  of  this  dismal  staircase,  and  after  a 
few  words  of  farther  parley,  we  were  admitted  through 
a strong  and  massive  door.  Here  we  at  once  found 
ourselves  involved  in  a labyrinth  of  gloomy  galleries 
and  dark  passage-ways.  Soldiers,  keepers,  officers  of 
the  courts,  gentlemen  and  leperos,  were  hurrying  to  and 
fro  ; ponderous  locks  were  turned  in  opening  or  closing 
heavy  iron  doors  and  gates  on  every  side ; curses  and 
deep  imprecations  were  heard  in  unseen  quarters ; 
while  the  clanking  of  chains,  as  they  were  dragged 
along  the  floors  of  the  different  apartments  and  across 
the  stone  pavement  of  an  immense  patio  below  us,  were 
grating  harshly  on  our  ears. 


INTERIOR  OF  A PRISON. 


353 


My  companion  asked  a young  man,  who  appeared 
to  be  in  some  way  connected  with  the  dreary  prison,  if 
he  could  be  allowed  a few  minutes’  conversation  with 
Senor  Navarro.  “ Presently,”  answered  the  individ- 
ual addressed,  at  the  same  time  ushering  us  into  a small 
oifice  on  the  outer  side  of  the  main  corridor.  A hard- 
featured  man,  who  seemed  as  though  he  might  be  a 
captain  of  the  night  watch,  was  reading  the  Diario  del 
Gobierno  in  one  corner  of  this  apartment,  while  a clerk 
was  making  out  what  appeared  to  be  arrest- warrants  or 
subpoenas  for  witnesses,  at  a desk  on  the  opposite  side. 
Here  we  remained  anxiously,  for  some  half  an  hour, 
until  a Mr.  Navarro,  but  not  the  right  one,  stepped  into 
the  room  and  asked  our  business.  On  telling  him  that 
we  had  called  to  see  another  prisoner  who  bore  the 
same  name,  he  pointed  to  a heavy  iron  door  or  gate, 
leading  to  a species  of  anteroom,  and  said  that  we  must 
inquire  there.  A word  or  two  with  a keeper  through 
the  grates  sufficed  to  gain  us  admission,  and  no  sooner 
had  we  entered  than  the  door  was  closed  and  locked 
after  us,  with  a clang  that  sent  a shudder  through  our 
frames. 

The  young  Englishman  who  accompanied  me  now 
again  made  known  our  wish  to  see  the  prisoner,  Mr. 
Navarro,  adding  that  we  had  received  permission  to 
that  effect.  The  keeper,  after  telling  us  to  wait  a few 
moments,  unlocked  another  grated  door,  which  seemed 
to  open  into  an  inner  corridor,  and  went  in  quest  of  my 
former  comrade.  During  the  few  minutes  that  elapsed 
before  his  return,  We  had  an  opportunity  of  learning 
some  of  the  secrets  of  this  celebrated  prison,  and  of  see- 
ing the  cold,  business-like  air  with  which  it  is  conduct- 
ed. On  every  side  it  seemed  as  though  we  could  hear 
keys  turning  in  ponderous  locks,  the  dreary  sound  of 
G g 2 


354 


A LIBERATED  CONVICT. 


bolts,  and  the  clanging  of  the  heavy  iron  doors  as  they 
opened  or  were  shut.  On  one  side  of  the  interior  they 
appeared  to  be  admitting  prisoner  after  prisoner,  crying 
aloud  their  names  as  the  unfortunates  crossed  the  gloomy 
thresholds : at  an  opposite  side,  the  passage  leading  di- 
rectly through  the  room  in  which  we  were  standing, 
seemed  to  be  the  outlet  through  which  the  prisoners 
made  their  way  on  being  liberated,  for  while  we  re- 
mained three  or  four  were  escorted  through  in  the  di- 
rection of  the  main  entrance  to  the  building  from  with- 
out. A sickly,  deadly,  prison-like  smell,  arising  from 
damp  and  dirty  walls  and  floors,  ragged  and  filthy 
wretches  covered  with  vermin,  and  a close  and  con- 
fined atmosphere,  pervaded  the  apartment,  and  as  if  to 
make  the  air  doubly  offensive,  the  opening  of  a heavy 
door  would  bring  in  some  freshly-foul  current  from  the 
dismal  interior. 

Three  times  was  the  name  of  each  liberated  prisoner 
shouted  aloud,  and  three  times,  it  seemed  to  us,  was 
the  cry  accompanied  by  sounds  as  of  keys  turning  in 
the  prison  locks  and  of  doors  slowly  opening.  “ Guada- 
lupe Ribas”  was  heard,  in  low  and  muttered  tones,  from 
the  inner  recesses,  followed  by  sounds  almost  indistinct, 
but  which  resembled  those  of  a heavy  door  within  doors 
as  it  swung  upon  its  hinges.  “ Guadalupe  Ribas”  was 
again  heard,  in  tones  far  more  distinct,  succeeded  by 
sounds  which  it  was  now  plainly  evident  proceeded 
from  a key  turning  in  some  heavy  lock  and  the  open- 
ing of  still  another  iron  door.  “ Guadalupe  Ribas”  once 
more  resounded  in  our  ears,  louder  and  more  distinct, 
a strong  door  grated  heavily  upon  its  hinges,  and  Gua- 
dalupe Ribas  was  passed  through  the  room  in  which 
we  were  awaiting.  Who  or  what  she  was,  or  for  what 
crime  she  had  been  confined,  we  did  not  learn ; but  for 


INTERVIEW  WITH  MR.  NAVARRO. 


355 


attempting  the  life  of  her  lover  in  a fit  of  jealousy,  or 
for  some  act  of  a like  nature,  she  had  probably  been 
provided  with  lodgings  within  the  gloomy  walls  of  the 
Acordada.  She  was  a pretty  girl,  of  not  more  than 
eighteen,  was  neatly  and  cleanly  dressed  in  garments 
brought  probably  by  the  friends  who  had  procured  her 
release,  and  with  downcast  eyes  and  hurried  steps  trip- 
ped from  the  place  as  the  last  door  was  opened.* 

No  sooner  had  she  departed,  than  a ponderous  iron 
gate,  leading  apparently  into  another  part  of  the  prison, 
was  slowly  opened,  and  Mr.  Navarro  stood  before  us. 
Three  months’  close  imprisonment,  combined  with  the 
horrible  associations  of  the  Acordada,  had  wrought 
terrible  changes  in  the  appearance  of  my  old  compan- 
ion— his  unshaved  face  was  pale  and  haggard,  his  hair 
long  and  uncombed,  his  vestments  ragged  and  much 
soiled.  On  first  entering  the  walls,  his  fellow-prison- 
ers, composed  of  the  most  loathsome  and  abandoned 
wretches,  had  robbed  him  not  only  of  his  money  but 
his  clothing,  and  with  emotion  he  now  told  us  that  the 
only  sustenance  he  received  was  the  scanty  allowance 
of  tortillas  and  frijoles  given  to  each  of  the  immense 
horde  of  felons  and  assassins  by  whom  he  was  sur- 
rounded— a pittance  barely  sufficient  to  sustain  life. 
He  spoke  of  his  wife  and  children  at  San  Antonio,  of  a 
son  at  college  in  Missouri,  and  with  tearful  eyes  beg- 
ged me  to  convey  to  them  information  that  he  was  still 
alive  and  not  without  hope  of  ultimate  release.  Stealth- 
ily, and  without  being  seen  by  the  surrounding  Mexi- 
cans, we  gave  the  unfortunate  man  what  money  we 
had — shaking  hands  with  him  three  or  four  times  pre- 
vious to  our  final  parting,  and  at  each  grasp  slipping  a 

* I may  have  mistaken  the  name  of  this  girl,  although  I heard  it  pronoun- 
ced three  times. 


356 


JAIL-BIRDS. 


few  dollars  into  his  possession : then,  after  expressing 
our  ardent  wishes  for  his  speedy  liberation,  we  left  the 
Acordada,  but  not  until  I heard  the  ponderous  iron  door 
close,  with  a dreadful  clang,  upon  my  old  comrade. 

As  we  were  leaving  the  building,  I looked  down  into 
an  immense  patio,  paved  with  stone,  where  some  hun- 
dreds of  male  prisoners  were  sitting,  lounging,  working, 
and  sleeping — the  apartment  for  the  females  I did  not 
see.  Near  the  main  entrance  we  found  several  of  the 
men  belonging  to  tha  Santa  Fe  Expedition — English- 
men, Americans,  Frenchmen,  and  Prussians — who  had 
been  liberated  through  the  intervention  of  the  ministers 
of  their  different  governments.  They  were  now  await- 
ing an  opportunity  to  see  several  Texan  prisoners,  who 
had  been  captured  on  the  Rio  Grande  in  the  vicinity 
of  Matamoros.  I,  too,  was  anxious  to  give  these  pris- 
oners a call,  although  unacquainted  with  them  ; but  as 
my  companion  had  an  engagement  to  fulfil  in  the  city, 
was  compelled  to  hurry  off’  without  accomplishing  it. 
Another  opportunity  to  visit  the  Acordada  did  not  offer 
while  I was  in  Mexico. 

A full  description  of  this  dreary  prison  might  not 
prove  uninteresting,  but  I am  unable  to  give  it.  Hun- 
dreds of  wretches,  male  and  female,  and  of  every  grade, 
are  confined  within  its  walls — chained,  ill-fed,  dirty  and 
ragged.  In  1828  occurred  the  Revolution  of  the  Acor- 
dada, and  during  some  of  the  more  recent  pronuncia- 
mentos  the  prisoners,  or  many  of  them,  have  escaped  ; 
but  in  the  spring  of  1842  the  place  appeared  to  be 
stocked,  even  to  overflowing,  with  murderers,  thieves, 
counterfeiters,  wives  who  had  stabbed  or  poisoned  their 
husbands,  girls  who  had  assassinated  or  attempted  to 
assassinate  their  lovers — in  short,  a miscellaneous  col- 
lection of  every  hardened  class  in  Mexico,  from  the 


DUTCH  BROOM-GIRLS  IN  MEXICO. 


357 


highest  to  the  lowest.  Some  one  of  the  guards,  attend- 
ants, or  keepers  should  have  been  provided  with  a 
chain  and  a lodging  within  the  prison  while  I was  there, 
for  among  them  they  robbed  me  of  a handkerchief. 
This  was  a mere  trifle,  however,  for  it  is  impossible  to 
turn  a corner  in  Mexico  without  having  your  pockets 
picked.  Even  in  the  churches,  it  is  said,  the  leperos 
ply  their  calling  ; for  while  their  spiritual  wants  are 
administered  to  by  the  priests,  the  ragged  rascals  have 
an  eye  upon  their  temporal  need  by  introducing  their 
fingers  into  the  pockets  of  their  neighbours,  and  this 
with  a dexterity  unknown  in  other  lands. 

On  our  return  to  the  heart  of  the  city,  I proceeded  at 
once  to  the  great  coach  stand  in  the  Plaza  Mayor  for 
the  purpose  of  hiring  one  of  the  clumsy  vehicles  to  ride 
out  to  Santiago.  In  the  Plateros  I met  a couple  of 
Dutch  broom-girls,  with  their  “ fader  and  big  broder,” 
squalling  away  at  one  of  their  street  ballads,  and  with 
the  usual  tambourine,  hurdy-gurdy,  and  dancing  mon- 
key accompaniments.  One  of  the  girls  I recognised  as 
a veteran  itinerant,  well  known  in  the  thoroughfares  of 
every  city  of  the  United  States.  She  spoke  a little 
English,  and  on  my  asking  her  how  she  liked  Mexico, 
she  remarked  that  “ dese  peoples  is  very  poor  in  dis 
city,  so  poor  as  we  can’t  make  de  expenses.”  Presu- 
ming that  the  expenses  of  one  of  these  families  are  far 
from  heavy,  it  may  be  naturally  inferred  that  the  pa- 
tronage they  received  in  Mexico  was  not  very  exten- 
sive, and  that  the  demand  for  brooms  and  ballads  of 
Dutch  manufacture  is  not  sufficient  to  induce  a farther 
exportation. 

As  I passed  under  the  Portales,  with  the  intention  of 
examining  a showy  sarape  exposed  in  front  of  one  of 
the  shops,  I paused  for  a moment  to  watch  the  move- 


358 


EVANGELISTAS. 


merits  of  one  of  the  letter-writers  of  Mexico — evange- 
listas  they  are  called — who  was  intently  scrutinizing 
the  countenance  of  a customer,  seated  upon  a small  box 
in  front  of  him,  as  if  to  read  his  thoughts.  If  the  custom- 
er was  not  an  assassin,  or  a noted  robber  at  least,  his 
face  certainly  belied  him  ; for  a more  hang-dog  expres- 
sion of  countenance  was  never  worn.  As  he  whisper- 
ed a few  words  in  the  attentive  ear  of  the  evangelista, 
I could  not  but  think  that  the  fellow  was  consenting  to 
an  offer  made  him  to  assassinate  or  rob  some  unfortu- 
nate person,  and  wished  the  letter-writer  to  make  the 
fact  known  upon  a note  he  was  in  the  act  of  sketching. 

These  evangelistas,  it  is  said,  ply  a profitable  trade 
by  writing  letters  for  those  of  the  inhabitants  whose  ed- 
ucation, in  the  matter  of  expressing  their  thoughts  by 
intelligible  signs  on  paper,  has  been  neglected — and  of 
the  entire  population  of  the  city  of  Mexico,  I do  not  be- 
lieve that  five  in  every  hundred  adults  can  read  and 
write.  Where  it  is  impossible,  then,  to  communicate 
by  verbal  message,  the  professional  letter-writers  are 
called  in  requisition,  and  thus  they  are  made  the  re- 
positories of  secrets  innumerable,  and  secrets  which  it 
is  well  understood  they  will  never  betray.  There,  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  the  Plaza,  do  these  evangelistas  sit 
from  day  to  day,  their  stock  in  trade  consisting  of  pens, 
ink,  and  a few  quires  of  assorted  paper,  with  a small 
tablet  upon  which  to  write.  As  their  principal  cus- 
tomers are  girls,  it  is  more  than  probable  that  love  and 
intrigue  are  the  themes  upon  which  their  talents  are 
oftenest  called  in  requisition ; but  that  they  are  ready, 
for  “ a consideration,”  to  indite  epistles  in  relation  to 
treason,  assassination,  or  robbery,  there  can  be  little 
doubt. 

As  I approached  the  coach  stand,  I suppose  there 


CHARACTERISTICS  OF  COACHMEN.  359 

must  have  been  something  in  my  countenance  which 
indicated  that  I could  furnish  a job,  for  twenty  Mexican 
Jehus  at  once  crowded  around  me,  and  each  pointed 
out  his  establishment  as  in  every  w’ay  preferable  to 
those  of  his  fellows.  Coachmen  are  the  same  the  world 
over,  and  if  you  do  not  ascertain  that  their  animals  are 
faster,  their  vehicles  newer,  easier  to  ride  in,  and  less 
liable  to  break  down  than  any  others,  it  will  not  be  be- 
cause these  circumstances  are  not  told  you  with  open- 
mouthed  vehemence.  In  the  present  instance  I threw 
myself  entirely  upon  the  generosity  of  the  assembled 
crowd  of  “ whips,”  and  after  undergoing  the  usual 
amounVof  pulling  and  hauling,  at  last  found  myself  in 
one  of  the  coaches.  In  another  moment  the  postillion 
mounted  the  “near  wheel  mule” — I believe  that  is  the 
technical  term — and  I was  whirled  and  jolted  off  on  a 
short  visit  to  my  imprisoned  friends.  In  an  hour  I was 
once  more  in  the  city,  my  hat  suffering  severely  from  the 
jolts  of  the  coach  as  it  crossed  one  or  two  of  the  gut- 
ters, while  a new  bump  was  developed  on  the  crown 
of  my  head  by  sudden  and  forcible  contact  with  the  top 
of  the  vehicle. 

A few  words  in  relation  to  the  appearance  and  con- 
struction of  the  Mexican  coach,  and  I have  done  with 
this  chapter.  The  superstructure,  or  body  of  the  vehi- 
cle, is  well  enough,  being  somewhat  after  the  fashion  of 
our  own  light  hackney-coaches  ; but  the  huge  frame  or 
scaffolding  upon  which  it  is  swung  is  altogether  a dif- 
ferent thing,  and  gives  the  whole  affair  a clumsy,  ill- 
proportioned  appearance.  The  wheels  are  large,  strong, 
placed  at  a distance  of  three  or  four  yards  apart,  and 
were  the  immense  platform  upon  which  the  top  rests 
taken  away,  the  American  would  at  once  suppose  it  to 
be  a lumber  carriage,  such  as  timber  and  heavy  stone 


360 


THEIR  VEHICLES. 


pillars  are  transported  on  in  his  native  land.  The  sides 
of  the  body  are  painted,  the  scaffolding  upon  which  it 
rests  elaborately  carved  with  queer  conceits,  and  not  to 
speak  far  out  of  the  bounds  of  reason,  there  is  timber 
enough  wasted  in  the  construction  of  the  whole  to  build 
a small  class  Western  steamer  of  the  lighter  model. 
Such  is  a hasty  description  of  the  coach : the  animals 
and  driver  require  a few  words.  The  latter  is  gen- 
erally a swarthy,  brigandish,  dashing  fellow,  dressed  in 
a leathern  jacket  not  lacking  in  embroidery  and  bell 
buttons,  stout  trousers  of  the  same,  with  a broad-brim- 
med hat  covered  with  oiled  silk,  and  frequently  decora- 
ted with  silver  cord  and  tassels.  This  is  perched  in  a 
jaunty,  devil-may-care  style  upon  his  head,  and  thus 
arrayed,  the  stranger,  who  has  read  some  life  of  brig- 
ands illustrated  with  plates,  cannot  but  think  the  Mex- 
ican cochero  an  individual  even  more  ready  to  attack 
and  rob  his  coach  than  to  drive  it.  His  mules  are  often 
large  and  strong  animals,  and  although  encumbered 
with  heavy  and  useless  ornaments  attached  to  the  har- 
ness, and  frequently  with  a leathern  case  which  com- 
pletely covers  their  hind  quarters  and  tails,  he  contrives 
to  get  over  the  ground  with  a celerity  which  could  hard- 
ly be  expected.  What  the  charge  per  hour  is  I have 
now  forgotten — I only  know  that,  like  coachmen  in  oth- 
er countries,  the  Mexicans  get  all  they  can,  and  almost 
invariably  ask  for  more. 


THE  ALAMEDA. 


361 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

The  Alameda.  — Visit  to  that  noted  Pleasure-ground.  — A Yankee  Livery- 
stable-keeper  in  Mexico. — A Shower. — Paseo  Nuevo. — Family  Parties  in 
their  Carriages.— Mexican  Cavaliers  on  Horseback. — Singular  Gait  of  their 
Steeds. — Manner  of  training  them. — Race  with  a Shower.— Santa  Anna. 
— His  Courtesy,  Policy,  Power,  and  ambitious  Projects. — Reasons  for  the 
. Decline  of  the  Mexican  Republic. — Our  last  Night  in  Mexico. — More  of 
Captain  Hudson.  — Santa  Anna’s  Benevolence  ! — Take  leave  of  our 
Friends. — San  Lazaro  again.— Mexican  Escort.— Mexico  from  the  Mount- 
ain Sides. — Arrival  at  a Breakfast-House. — Arms  and  Equipments  of  our 
Party.  — A Yankee  Driver.  — Roadside  Crosses  and  Graves.  — Stories  of 
Robbers.  — Robbing  the  Stages  reduced  to  a System.  — Seiior  Garcia 
and  theLadrones. — Rio  Frio.^r-Mexican  Dogs. — Cholula  in  the  Distance. 
— Arrival  at  Puebla. — Visit  to  the  Texan  Prisoners  at  the  Presidio. — Their 
unfortunate  Condition.  — The  Cathedral  of  Puebla. — Its  great  Riches. — 
Anecdote  of  the  Angels.— Superstition  from  which  Puebla  received  its 
Name. — In  Bed  and  Asleep. 

In  my  last  chapter  I related  the  particulars  of  a visit 
to  the  Acordada.  Although  that  prison  is  situated  near 
the  Alameda,  a celebrated  park  or  resort  for  all  the 
fashionables  of  Mexico,  up  to  this  time  I had  not  enter- 
ed its  gates  or  examined  its  beautiful  fountains.  The 
day  was  now  approaching  when  Mr.  Ellis  was  to 
leave  the  capital  for  Vera  Cruz,  with  such  American 
prisoners  as  had  been  liberated  ; and,  determined  to  en- 
joy the  pleasure  of  a ride  through  the  Alameda  before 
our  departure,  a small  party  of  us  procured  horses  after 
dinner,  and  sallied  out  with  the  intention  of  galloping 
over  the  pleasure-grounds  of  the  elite  of  Mexico. 

April  seems  to  be'  a month  of  “ smiles  and  tears”  in 
Mexico  as  with  us ; for  although  the  sky  was  bright 
and  clear  when  we  mounted  the  nags  procured  for  us 
at  the  stable  of  a Yankee,  who  has  found  his  way  to 
Vol,  II,— H H 


362 


A SUDDEN  SHOWER. 


that  city,  and  established  himself  in  the  business  of 
“ hiring  out”  horses,  before  we  had  been  ten  minutes  in 
the  saddle  the  heavens  were  overcast,  and  in  five  more 
the  clouds  were  discounting  with  a liberality  which 
threatened  to  lay  the  city  under  water.  Cargadores, 
with  their  leather  trousers  rolled  up,  were  standing  at 
the  different  crossings,  ready  to  carry  any  unfortunate 
pedestrian,  who  might  be  “ caught  out,”  over  the  swift- 
ly-running street  currents  caused  by  the  shower.  So 
suddenly  was  the  rain  pouring  upon  us  that  there  was 
no  chance  of  an  escape  by  retreating,  and  we  therefore 
dashed  on  towards  the  Alameda.  A few  minutes  more, 
and  rain,  clouds,  and  all  were  over.  The  rapidity  with 
which  showers  come  and  go  in  these  high  mountain  re- 
gions, for  Mexico  lies  some  seven  thousand  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  sea,  can  scarcely  be  imagined. 

We  passed  an  hour  pleasantly  in  the  Alameda,  and 
in  the  Paseo  Nuevo,  which  is  but  a continuation,  admi- 
ring the  beautiful  fountains,  groves,  walks,  and  rides 
with  which  they  are  adorned.  Before  we  left  the  for- 
mer, the  carriage-roads  which  wind  through  it  were 
thronged  with  the  lumbering  but  costly  vehicles  of  the 
higher  orders,  tilled  with  ladies  and  children.  At  cer- 
tain points  the  carriages  would  draw  up  in  line,  many 
of  the  fair  inmates  smoking  their  cigarritos  with  much 
apparent  gusto,  wThile  occasionally  a dashing  horse- 
man would  amble  up  on  his  prancing  steed,  exchange  a 
few  words,  and  then  canter  off  to  exchange  compliments 
with  the  ladies  in  some  other  coach.  The  reader  must 
not  suppose,  however,  that  the  cavalier  starts  off  at  a 
rapid  gallop — he  does  nothing  of  the  kind.  There  is 
little  “ go-ahead”  in  a spirited,  showy,  well-trained 
Mexican  horse — the  old  saying  of  the  country  is,  that 
“ a true  and  devoted  lover  will  ride  and  amble  all  day 


MEXICAN  HORSEMANSHIP. 


363 


long  under  the  window  of  his  mistress.”  If  the  animal 
“ lifts”  well,  or,  in  other  words,  if  he  hoists  his  fore  feet 
some  ten  or  twelve  inches  at  every  step,  and  will  make 
motions  enough  while  going  twenty  yards  to  carry 
him  half  that  number  of  miles,  he  is  the  horse  for  a 
Mexican’s  money.  To  train  him  to  this  showy  but 
most  unnatural  gait,  it  is  said  that,  while  a colt,  large 
and  heavy  clogs  are  fastened  to  the  fetlock  joints  of  the 
fore  feet  by  means  of  straps — these  straps  allowing  the 
clogs  some  twelve  inches  play.  To  move  onward  at 
all,  the  animal  is  obliged  to  hoist  the  weights  entirely 
from  the  ground,  and  they  are  never  taken  off  until  the 
colt  has  contracted  such  a habit  of  lifting  as  cannot  be 
overcome.  To  give  him  a farther  shuffling  gait,  the 
Mexican  gentleman  covers  the  haunches  of  his  steed  with 
a large  leather  casing  which  reaches  to  his  hocks.  The 
edges  of  this  casing  are  trimmed  with  little  iron  points, 
which  not  only  tinkle  at  every  step,  but  prick  the 
horse’s  hind  legs,  so  .much  to  his  annoyance,  that  he 
throws  them  as  far  forward  as  possible.  Thus,  what 
with  lifting  his  fore  legs  and  mincing  with  his  hind,  a 
gait  is  contracted  which  more  resembles  the  dancing 
of  a circus-horse  upon  a plank  than  aught  else  I can 
liken  it  to.  A cruel  bit,  of  Mameluke  pattern,  which 
causes  the  horse  to  curve  his  neck,  champ,  and  froth 
incessantly  at  the  mouth,  completes  the  fit-out  of  the 
Mexican  gentleman  on  a pleasure  ride. 

We  had  intended  to  make  the  entire  circuit  of  the 
Paseo  Nuevo  ; but  a small  cloud  in  the  direction  of  one 
of  the  snow-capped  mountains  warned  us  that  another 
shower  was  brewing,  and  that  to  escape  it  we  must  be 
moving  homeward.  Fortunately,  our  Yankee  livery- 
stable-keeper  had  brought  with  him  his  inherent  utilita- 
rian principles  of  getting  over  as  much  ground  as  pos- 


3G4 


SANTA  ANNA  AND  HIS  LADY. 


sible  in  the  shortest  time,  and  had  taught  his  animals 
rather  to  annihilate  miles  than  minutes — a circumstance 
which  saved  us  a second  soaking ; for  as  we  clattered 
through  the  streets  at  a rapid  pace,  the  shower  which 
had  driven  us  from  the  Alameda  was  following  close 
at  our  heels  and  gaining  upon  us  at  every  step.  The 
full  weight  of  it  was  falling  as  we  threw  ourselves  from 
our  jaded  animals  under  the  archway  which  formed 
the  entrance  to  our  quarters. 

We  had  now  but  one  more  day  to  remain  in  Mexico, 
and  I felt  that  I had  yet  scarcely  seen  half  the  curiosi- 
ties of  which  the  proud  city  boasts.  Santa  Anna  him- 
self, the  great  man  who  has  risen  above  reverses  that 
no  common  intellect  could  have  combated  so  success- 
fully, I had  never  set  eyes  upon — he  moved  not  from 
the  palace  while  we  were  in  the  city  at  liberty,  or  if  he 
did  we  were  not  aware  of  it.  All  the  foreigners — 
American,  English,  and  French — spoke  of  him  as  a 
man  extremely  courteous  and  affable  in  his  intercourse  ; 
of  polished  and  most  agreeable  manners ; in  short,  the 
last  person  who  could  be  suspected  of  the  many  acts 
of  oppression,  tyranny,  broken  faith,  ambition,  avarice, 
and  treachery  of  which  he  has  been  accused.  To  ob- 
tain at  least  a glimpse  of  this  man  was  the  ardent  de- 
sire of  us  all ; but  we  were  disappointed.  His  lady 
was  lying  dangerously  ill  at  the  time,  which  may  have 
been  one  reason  that  prevented  him  from  appearing  in 
public.* 

* Madame  Santa  Anna  is  spoken  of  by  all  as  an  estimable  woman,  of 
great  kindness  of  heart,  and  it  was  reported  that  she  was  untiring  in  her 
exertions  to  have  the  treatment  of  the  Texan  prisoners  mitigated.  On  the 
19th  of  April  she  was  thought  to  be  lying  at  the  point  of  death,  and  a solemn  - 
service  in  the  cathedral  was  held  and  the  last  sacrament  administered  to  the 
sufferer.  It  was  said  at  the  time,  but  with  what  truth  I know  not,  that  ten 
thousand  dollars’  worth  of  wax  candles  were  burning  within  the  walls  of  the 
cathedral  at  the  same  moment.  The  magnificence  of  such  a spectacle  can 


POLITICAL  CHARACTER  OF  THE  MEXIOAN3.  365 

No  farther  proof  is  wanting  of  the  great  talent — per- 
haps I should  call  it  cunning — of  Santa  Anna,  than  the 
simple  fact  that  he  has  been  able,  in  the  face  of  adverse 
circumstances  apparently  insurmountable,  and  in  direct 
opposition  to  the  known  wishes  of  a large  majority  of 
the  inhabitants,  to  regain  and  retain  a supremacy  which 
amounts  to  absolute  power.  With  every  variety  of 
discordant  element  arrayed  against  him — with  popular 
and  powerful  military  men  known  to  be  inimical  in  dif- 
ferent quarters,  with  a Constituent  Congress  opposed  to 
him,  with  reverse  after  reverse  and  defeat  after  defeat 
staring  him  in  the  face- — above  all  these  he  has  risen, 
and  at  this  time  is  really  in  the  possession  and  enjoy- 
ment of  a power  such  as  the  Autocrat  of  all  the  Rus- 
sias  would  hardly  dare  to  wield.  That  his  arbitrary 
and  despotic  government  is  the  best  that  could  be 
adopted,  to  keep  the  people  in  subjection,  can  hardly 
be  doubted  by  any  one  who  has  seen  Mexico ; yet  not 
one  jot  of  credit  does  Santa  Anna  deserve  for  thus  ru- 
ling the  land,  as  his  own  selfishness  rather  than  a love 
of  country  actuates  his  every  movement.  There  are 
many  liberal,  enlightened,  and  well-disposed  statesmen 
among  the  Federalists  of  Mexico — men  of  great  moral 
honesty,  and  earnestly  desirous  of  placing  the  govern- 
ment of  the  country  upon  a republican  basis — but  they 
have  an  ignorant  population  to  deal  with,  a population 
entirely  incapable  of  governing  themselves ; to  this 
may  be  added  the  influence  and  power  of  the  priest- 
hood ; and  as  if  this  was  not  enough,  the  ambitious  and 
selfish  schemes  of  Santa  Anna,  and  after  him  some  half 
dozen  military  leaders  who  only  lack  his  talent  and 

hardly  be  conceived,  much  less  described — such  a flood  of  light  illuminating 
the  rich  adornments  of  the  church,  and  the  showy  and  imposing  dresses 
and  brilliant  ornaments  of  the  priests  officiating  on  the  occasion. 

H H 2 


36G 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  DEPARTURE. 


energy  to  make  them  equally  opposed  to  the  supremacy 
of  civil  power — with  all  these  drag-weights  upon  their 
efforts,  what  hopes  can  .the  friende  of  free  government 
entertain  of  even  ultimate  success?  The  day  has  gone 
by  when  a priest-ridden  population,  governed  by  a 
military  despotism,  can  make  headway  in  the  great 
race  of  advancement  which  has  been  commenced  by 
Anglo-Saxon  toleration,  and  by  the  civil  and  religious 
liberty  which  the  latter  race  enjoy.  That  Santa  Anna, 
or  such  a man  as  Santa  Anna,  unless  some  tremendous 
revolution  takes  place  in  the  very  natures  of  the  inhab- 
itants, will  continue  to  govern  Mexico  until  she  is  swal- 
lowed in  that  vortex  which  appears  to  be  yawning  to 
receive  her,  is  certain — a vortex  formed  by  the  liberal 
spirit  of  universal  education,  free  toleration  of  religion, 
and  that  stern  and  inflexible  love  for  equal  rights  now 
spreading  through  the  earth,  which  compels  ambition 
to  sacrifice  personal  feelings  to  the  public  good. 

The  evening  previous  to  our  departure  from  Mexico 
was  spent  in  cleaning  and  loading  pistols,  packing  up, 
and  making  ready  for  the  tiresome  and  hazardous  jour- 
ney to  Vera  Cruz.  The  exact  dated  have  forgotten,  as 
I took  no  note  of  time  or  circumstances  after  my  release 
— but  that  it  rained  incessantly  during  the  earlier  part 
of  the  night  I well  remember.  The  diligence  set  off  at 
three  o’clock  in  the  morning,  and  as  we  all  had  much  to 
do  no  one  retired  to  rest.  About  midnight,  and  while  I 
was  at  the  rooms  of  Mr.  Ellis,  a Mexican  officer  arrived 
in  great  haste,  with  an  order  for  the  release  of  Captain 
Hudson  — Santa  Anna,  I believe  at  the  request  of  the 
then  Governor  of  Connecticut,  having  consented  to  give 
him  up.  Captain  H.,  however,  as  is  already  known,  had 
put  it  out  of  the  power  of  the  Provisional  President  to 
exercise  another  act  of  “ benevolence ” towards  the  Uni- 


SETTING  OUT  FOR  HOME. 


367 


ted  States,  by  taking  the  responsibility  of  liberating  him- 
self.* 

At  half  past  two  o’clock  in  the  morning  we  took  our 
leave  of  General  Thompson,  who  had  been  employed 
up  to  that  hour  in  writing  and  making  out  his  despatch- 
es, and  set  out  with  bag  and  baggage  for  the  Casa  de 
Diligencias,  from  which  the  stage  starts.  After  some 
half  hour  passed  in  weighing  and  stowing  trunks  and 
valises,  each  passenger  being  compelled  to  pay  extra  if 
he  is  the  possessor  of  more  than  an  arroba  or  twenty- 
five  pounds  of  baggage,  we  finally  entered  the  coach, 
some  eight  or  ten  Americans  in  all,  and  once  more  sha- 
king hands  with  Mr.  Mayer  and  several  of  our  country- 
men, who  had  lost  one  night’s  sleep  for  the  purpose  of 
“ seeing  us  off,”  the  driver  cracked  his  whip  and  we 
rattled  over  the  pavements  at  a rapid  rate. 

* In  the  published  correspondence,  in  relation  to  the  release  of  the  Amer- 
ican prisoners  attached  to  the  Santa  Fe  Expedition,  it  is  openly  asserted  that 
we  were  released,  not  as  an  act  of  justice,  but  purely  from  benevolent  motives  ! 
I will  quote  one  or  two  passages  from  a letter  addressed  to  General  Thomp- 
son by  M.  de  Bocanegra,  and  dated  “ Mexico,  April  23,  1842.”  In  this  letter 
General  T.  is  informed,  “That  his  excellency  the  Provisional  President,  in 
consideration  solely  of  the  cordial  friendship  by  which  the  Mexican  Repub- 
lic is  united  to  the  United  States,  has  been  pleased  to  accede  to  the  repeated 
petitions  addressed  by  Mr.  Powhatan  Ellis,  conjointly  with  the  other  diplo- 
matic ministers,  by  means  of  notes  and  private  conferences,  to  the  effect  that 
those  persons  among  the  Texan  prisoners  from  New  Mexico  should  be  liber- 
ated, who,  according  to  the  said  notes,  are  citizens  of  the  said  States,  and 
who,  on  incorporating  themselves  with  the  Texan  force,  had  no  intention  to 
make  war  on  the  Republic.”  M.  de  Bocanegra  next  goes  on  to  say  that  San- 
ta Anna,  “ though  he  has  on  this  occasion  done  an  act  of  benevolence,  in  or- 
der to  prove  to  the  United  States  how  much  he  desires  to  preserve  the  rela- 
tions which  now  fortunately  exist  between  the  two  nations,  protests  that  for 
the  future,  every  individual  of  any  nation  whatever,  who  may  be  found  in 
the  Texan  ranks,  and  may  be  made  prisoner  by  the  Mexican  troops,  shall  be 
subject,  without  ransom,  to  the  laws  of  war.”  A very  pretty  piece  of  Mexi- 
can kindness,  this,  ingeniously  interwoven  with  Mexican  vapour ! I certain- 
ly feel  under  great  obligations  to  my  own  government  for  its  petitions,  and  to 
Santa  Anna  for  his  exceeding  benevolence,  but  I doubt  whether  I should  ever 
tax  either  of  them  again  were  I arrested  under  the  same  circumstances  and 
should  the  same  opportunities  to  escape  be  within  my  reach. 


368 


SUNRISE  ON  THE  ROAD. 


As  we  passed  the  old  Hospital  of  San  Lazaro,  which 
lies  immediately  to  the  left  of  the  road  leading  to  Vera 
Cruz,  I could  not  resist  taking  a last  look  at  its  gloomy 
walls,  now  indistinctly  seen  by  the  dim  light  of  morning. 
Not  without  a shudder  did  I recall  the  revolting  scenes, 
dreary  hours  of  imprisonment,  wild  orgies,  and  impo- 
sing night  funerals,  I had  passed  and  seen  within  its  long 
and  dismal  halls,  hor  could  I think  of  my  comrades  still 
confined  there,  and  of  the  horrible  associations  of  the 
place,  without  a fervent  hope  that  the  Texans  might 
speedily  be  released.  Five  minutes  more,  and  we  had 
passed  the  garita,  and  were  speeding  along  over  the 
open  thoroughfare.'  An  escort  of  dragoons,  provided 
by  Santa  Anna  for  “El  Ministro”  and  his  party,  were 
galloping  on  either  side  of  the  stage,  their  lances  and 
sabres  rattling  at  every  movement  of  their  horses. 

The  dull  gray  of  morning  was  slowly  dispersing  as 
we  commenced  the  toilsome  ascent  of  the  mountains 
which  divide  the  valley  of  Mexico  from  that  of  Puebla, 
and  long  before  the  summit  was  reached  the  full  light 
of  day  was  shining  far  and  wide  over  the  scene  below 
us.  The  and  waste  which  surrounds  the  great  city  we 
had  just  left  was  softened  down,  and  served  to  heighten 
the  magnificence  of  the  innumerable  towers  and  domes 
still  plainly  visible.  The  distant  mountain  sides  were 
clothed  with  a fleecy  covering  of  clouds,  the  wasted  re- 
ceptacles of  the  last  night’s  shower  ; and  as  the  sun 
gradually  lifted  the  curtain  of  vapour  the  bold  and  pre- 
cipitous sides  were  brought  out  in  striking  grandeur. 
As  we  were  approaching  the  last  turn  in  the  road  the 
sun  suddenly  shot  up  from  behind  the  mountain  tops  ; 
for  an  instant  the  valley  was  lit  up  as  by  enchantment, 
and  the  next  moment  a projecting  cliff  shut  out  the 
brilliant  scene  — we  had  looked  our  last  upon  the  city 
of  the  Montezumas. 


MILITARY  EQUIPMENTS. 


369 


An  hour’s  ride  over  the  rough  mountain  country  now 
brought  us  to  the  breakfast-house,  a noted  stand  by  the 
roadside,  and  kept,  if  my  memory  serves  me,  by  a 
Frenchman.  It  was  not  until  we  had  dragged  our 
cramped  and  benumbed  limbs  from  the  stage  that  our 
full  strength  and  imposing  armament  were  brought  to 
full  view,  and  we  ascertained  that  our  diligence  was  a 
perfect  arsenal  of  war’s  dread  implements  of  destruc- 
tion. Judge  Ellis  had  a sword  in  his  hands,  while  a belt 
stuck  full  of  United  States  boarding-pistols  was  strap- 
ped around  him.  In  the  hands  of  some  of  my  compan- 
ions were  double-barrelled  guns — and  the  butt  of  a pis- 
tol or  the  handle  of  a bowie-knife  was  peering  from 
every  pocket.  While  in  Mexico  we  had  breakfasted, 
dined,  and  supped  full  of  horrible  tales  of  robbers  and 
robberies  upon  the  road  to  Vera  Cruz ; but  as  we  now 
counted  our  strength,  we  felt  a confidence  in  our  ability 
to  withstand  a successful  siege  from  four  times  our  num- 
ber of  los  senores  ladrones,  and  would  even  have  paid 
extra  fare  could  we  have  been  ensured  a small  brush 
with  the  lawless  freebooters.  “ We’re  good  for  fifty  of 
’em,  sure,”  was  the  remark  of  one  of  our  companions, 
as  we  displayed  our  arms  upon  a table  in  the  breakfast- 
house,  and  I have  little  doubt  that  such  odds  would 
have  fared  badly.  The  greatest  risk  we  ran,  in  all  prob- 
ability, was  of  accidentally  shooting  each  other  ; for 
while  crowded  in  the  stage  it  was  impossible  to  look  in 
any  direction  without  seeing  the  muzzle  of  a loaded 
pistol  staring  in  our  faces. 

After  making  a breakfast  which  mainly  consisted  of 
mutton,  fowls,  eggs,  and  frijoles,  aided  by  chocolate  and 
some  excellent  claret  provided  by  Judge  Ellis,  and  after 
hearing  a much  exaggerated  tale  of  a party  of  robbers, 
recently  seen  prowling  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Rio 


370 


STAGE  DRIVERS. 


Frio,  we  once  more  buckled  on  our  armour  and  took 
our  places  in  the  diligence.  The  morning  was  mild 
and  agreeably  pleasant  in  this  high  mountain  region,  so 
much  so  that  two  or  three  of  us  soon  took  our  seats  out- 
side with  the  driver,  a well-informed,  entertaining  Yan- 
kee, who  knew  the  history  of  every  roadside  cross 
which  lifts  its  head  over  the  remains  of  some  murdered 
occupant  of  the  rude  grave  below.  With  whatever 
skill  the  Mexicans  may  be  able  to  manage  a single  horse 
in  the  saddle,  the  science  of  handling  some  half  dozen 
from  the  box  of  a stage-coach  is  above  their  comprehen- 
sion, and  a feat  they  have  not  the  temerity  to  under- 
take— and  hence  the  owners  of  the  different  lines  of  dil- 
igences invariably  procure  the  services  of  Yankees 
when  they  can  be  obtained. 

Your  stage-driver  is  an  entertaining  fellow  go  where 
you  will ; full  of  interesting  stories,  and  ever  prone  to 
relate  the  history  of  every  remarkable  point  upon  his 
route.  Ours  we  found  unusually  amusing,  perhaps  from 
the  abundant  material  at  his  hand  of  perilous  encounters 
with  banditti  and  hair-breadth  ’scapes  on  occasions  in- 
numerable. The  driver  of  the  Mexican  diligence  is  a 
neutral  in  any  attack  that  may  be  made,  as  it  would  be 
more  than  his  place  is  worth  should  he  side  with  the 
passengers  against  the  ladrones ; yet  it  frequently  oc- 
curs that  the  latter  blaze  away  at  random  at  the  stage, 
and  on  more  than  one  occasion  the  driver  has  lost  his 
life  although  it  was  not  sought.  His  duty  is — and 
nothing  else  is  expected  of  him  either  by  the  highway- 
men or  the  passengers — to  jump  from  his  box  at  the 
first  onset,  hold  his  lead  horses  by  the  head  until  the  af- 
fray is  over,  and  let  it  terminate  as  it  will  he  is  not  mo- 
lested intentionally.  He  knows  every  robber  upon  the 
road,  yet  never  exposes  them,  for  the  very  simple  but 


STAGE  ROBBERIES. 


371 


satisfactory  reason  that  his  life  would  pay  the  forfeit  if 
he  did. 

The  business  of  robbing  the  stages  is  reduced  to  a 
perfect  system  in  Mexico ; and  it  is  shrewdly  hinted 
that  many  men,  of  respectable  station  in  the  larger 
cities,  are  in  some  way  connected  with  the  bands,  and 
have  no  hesitation  in  taking  to  the  road  when  other  re- 
sources fail.  A spy  is  almost  invariably  stationed  at 
the  stage-house  as  the  coach  is  about  starting,  whose 
duty  it  is  to  take  down  a list  of  the  passengers,  their 
appearance,  arms,  and  the  amount  of  luggage  with 
which  they  travel.  If  the  stage  happens  to  be  filled 
with  well-armed  foreigners — Americans,  English,  Ger- 
man, or  French — it  is  generally  allowed  to  pass  unmo- 
lested ; for  well  do  the  ladrones  know  that  they  will 
not  give  up  their  property  without  a desperate  strug- 
gle. On  the  contrary,  should  the  travellers  be  chiefly 
Mexicans,  with  but  a foreigner  or  two  among  them,  the 
load  is  at  once  put  down  as  legitimate  game,  as  the 
former  are  almost  invariably  looked  upon  as  non-com- 
batants, who  would  rather  be  searched  than  shot.  The 
moment  the  spy  ascertains  the  character  and  condition 
of  the  passengers,  with  the  chances  of  a successful  at- 
tack, he  gallops  off  to  give  the  information  to  his  com- 
panions, who  are  quietly  waiting  for  him  in  some  dark 
defile  or  lonely  barranca. 

Should  an  attack  be  deemed  expedient,  the  diligence 
is  suddenly  waylaid  in  some  well-known  spot ; the  pas- 
sengers, if  no  resistance  is  made,  are  compelled  to  de- 
scend from  the  vehicle,  lie  down  with  their  faces  to 
the  earth,  and  then  submit  to  a thorough  searching. 
The  baggage,  in  the  mean  while,  is  overhauled,  and 
every  article  of  value  abstracted,  after  which  the  un- 
fortunate travellers  are  permitted  to  gather  themselves 


372 


COURTEOUS  PLUNDERERS. 


up  and  proceed  on  their  journey.  The  robbers,  whose 
faces  are  almost  invariably  concealed  by  black  crape, 
have  the  reputation  of  being  very  gentlemanly  in  their 
conduct,  treating  ladies  with  much  respect  and  consid- 
eration, and  apologizing  to  the  other  sex  for  the  trouble 
and  detention  circumstances  have  compelled  them  to 
cause.  A friend  of  mine,  who  was  unfortunate  enough 
to  be  travelling  this  road  in  the  spring  of  1843  with  no 
other  than  Mexican  companions,  was  robbed  near  Rio 
Frio  by  a party  of  ladrones.  Their  captain,  as  he 
turned  to  ride  off,  touched  his  hat  very  politely,  and 
before  giving  our  American  the  customary  “ adios,” 
said  that  he  was  extremely  sorry  thus  to  take  liberties 
with  and  incommode  a stranger,  trusted  that  the  money 
of  which  he  had  despoiled  him  would  prove  no  serious 
loss,  and  after  hoping  that  he  had  more  where  that 
came  from,  dashed  off  at  a canter  ! The  fellows  never 
seem  anxious  to  shed  blood,  firing  into  the  stage  only 
when  they  anticipate  resistance ; on  no  other  occasion 
is  the  life  of  the  driver  placed  in  jeopardy. 

A volume  of  interesting  anecdotes  might  be  written, 
filled  entirely  with  accounts  of  the  different  robberies 
which  have  taken  place  between  the  city  of  Mexico 
and  Vera  Cruz.  One  only  I will  relate — a story  told 
of  the  laughable  indignities  offered  the  celebrated  Senor 
Garcia,  Malibran’s  father,  while  returning  from  the  cap- 
ital after  giving  a series  of  successful  concerts.  I have 
now  forgotten  the  exact  point,  but  the  very  spot  was 
pointed  out  to  me  where  the  lawless  brigands  first  way- 
laid the  great  vocalist,  as  well  as  the  stone  or  little  hil- 
lock upon  which  they  mounted  him,  after  the  robbery, 
and  compelled  him  to  sing  several  of  his  most  popular 
pieces.  It  would  seem  that  the  rascals  had  been  reg- 
ular patrons  and  warm  admirers  of  Garcia  while  in  the 


GARCIA  AND  THE  LADRONES. 


373 


city ; for  they  not  only  knew  him  at  once,  but  were 
well  acquainted  with  his  music.  After  searching  and 
robbing  him,  they  next  perched  him  upon  a little  emi- 
nence, gathered  around  in  a circle,  and  after  taking  oft’ 
their  hats,  one  of  them  called  for  a favourite  air.  It 
was  in  vain  that  the  senor  pleaded — told  the  brigands 
he  was  hoarse,  out  of  voice,  indisposed — nothing  would 
do  but  he  must  give  them  a song.  They  openly  told 
him  that  they  had  listened,  with  pleasure,  to  his  sur- 
passing efforts  in  the  city,  and  that  they  could  not  think 
of  allowing  him  to  leave  the  country  without  giving  a 
“ farewell  concert !” — the  thing  was  impossible.  Gar- 
cia, with  piteous  face,  again  begged  them  to  excuse 
him,  and  was  about  to  give  a peremptory  refusal,  when 
a call  for  a favourite  Italian  aria,  accompanied  by  a 
click  of  the  lock  of  a carbine  and  a significant  look 
from  one  of  his  tormentors,  convinced  him  that  he  must 
sing  now  or  forever  after  hold  his  peace. 

With  broken  and  tremulous  voice  he  commenced  his 
song.  A shower  of  hisses  followed,  which  plainly  told 
that  the  strange  audience  would  not  put  up  with  an  ef- 
fort so  unworthy  of  the  great  vocalist.  Another  trial 
was  made — better,  perhaps,  than  the  first,  but  still  fall- 
ing far  short  of  what  the  rascals  knew  Garcia  to  be  ca- 
pable of — and  again  they  manifested  their  disapproba- 
tion by  hisses.  Wound  up  to  a pitch  of  desperation, 
and,  it  is  even  said,  stung  with  mortification  and  wound- 
ed professional  pride  at  being  hissed,  the  senor  once 
more  attempted  the  aria.  This  time  he  was  more  suc- 
cessful, for  applause  rather  than  hisses  greeted  its  con- 
clusion. Another  favourite  piece  was  then  called  for, 
and  this  was  given  with  even  greater  effect  and  met 
with  more  decided  marks  of  applause  : the  rascals  were 
connoisseurs  of  music.  Garcia  improved,  as  the  story 

VOL.  II.— I I 


374 


PYRAMID  OF  CHOLULA. 


runs,  with  every  fresh  song,  and  after  giving  several 
pieces  in  a style  which  was  perfectly  satisfactory  to  the 
brigands,  he  was  greeted,  at  the  conclusion  of  the  last, 
with  a shower  of  “ bravas”  and  three  rounds  of  ap- 
plause ! Such  is  the  tale  related  of  the  great  vocalist 
and  his  audience  of  robbers. 

We  passed  the  Rio  Frio  without  molestation,  and 
early  in  the  afternoon  entered  the  valley  of  Puebla. 
Scattered  along  by  the  roadside  were  the  adobe  houses 
of  the  inhabitants,  from  each  of  which,  as  we  rattled  by, 
some  half  dozen  worthless  Mexican  dogs  would  jump 
and  dash  at  the  stage.  A shower  of  barks  and  yelps 
from  the  curs  would  be  duly  honoured  by  us  with  a 
shower  of  bullets  and  buckshot ; and  as  several  of  them 
were  seen  to  tumble  over  and  commence  kicking,  it  is 
fairly  presumable  that  the  sun  did  not  rise  the  next 
morning  on  as  many  live  dogs  as  on  that  of  the  day 
when  we  passed  through  the  once  rich  and  fertile  val- 
ley of  Puebla. 

To  the  right  of  the  road,  in  the  distance,  our  driver 
pointed  out  to  us  the  grand  pyramid  of  Cholula,  with 
what  is  left  of  that  once  sacred  city.  The  vast  mound 
is  fast  crumbling  away,  while  the  former  magnificent 
city  at  its  base,  with  its  many  inhabitants,  is  now  said 
to  be  falling  into  ruins  and  depopulating  more  and  more 
every  year. 

About  four  o’clock  we  entered  Puebla,  covered  with 
dust  and  with  our  faces  much  burned  by  the  hot  noon- 
day sun.  As  we  rattled  down  one  of  the  main  streets, 
the  Presidio  where  the  Texans  were  confined  was  point- 
ed out  to  us — a short  ride  farther,  and  the  plaza,  with  the 
rich  and  imposing  cathedral  of  Puebla,  was  in  plain 
sight.  With  a crack  of  his,  whip,  and  faster  pace  of 
his  horses,  our  driver  dashed  by  the  Portales — crowds 


TEXANS  AT  PUEBLA. 


375 


of  admiring  urchins  gazing  with  eyes  open  to  the  ut- 
most, while  groups  of  girls  scampered  far  out  of  the 
way,  as  if  fearful  of  being  run  over  by  the  stage.  A 
short  and  abrupt  turn  of  the  street,  and  a trot  of  but  a 
few  yards  farther,  and  we  were  landed  safe  and  sound 
at  the  Casa  de  Diligencias,  the  best  public  house  in  Pue- 
bla. Here  we  found  the  worthy  American  consul,  Mr. 
Black,  with  Messrs.  Snively,  Torry,  Hough taling,  and 
Buchanan,  four  of  our  former  comrades  in  imprison- 
ment who  had  been  given  up  to  Judge  Ellis,  all  com- 
fortably quartered,  and  awaiting  our  arrival. 

No  sooner  had  we  washed  the  dust  from  our  faces, 
and  shaken  and  brushed  the  thickest  of  it  from  our 
clothes,  than,  accompanied  by  the  late  minister,  we  vis- 
ited the  T exan  prisoners  at  the  Presidio.  Our  unfortu- 
nate comrades  were  here  confined  in  the  same  yard 
with  hundreds  of  Mexican  criminals  of  the  worst  class, 
chained  together  in  pairs,  employed  during  the  day  in 
the  city  cleaning  ditches,  sewers,  and  other  dirty  work  ; 
covered  with  every  species  of  vermin,  poorly  clad, 
worse  fed,  and  at  night  herded  and  guarded  with  the 
low  wretches  who  surrounded  them.  No  comparison 
between  their  treatment  and  that  of  the  Texans  in  San- 
tiago can  be  drawn,  for  the  former  were  deprived  of 
such  comfort  as  is  found  in  a sufficiency  of  food,  com- 
paratively clean  quarters,  and  the  absence  of  such  vile 
association  as  the  lowest  malefactors  afford.  Thus 
were  men,  whom  Santa  Anna  openly  avowed  prisoners 
of  war,  treated  in  Puebla.  The  population  of  this  city 
are  said  to  entertain  more  hostile  and  bigoted  feelings 
towards  “heretics  and  dogs,”  as  many  of  them  are 
wont  to  call  the  Americans  and  English,  than  those  of 
any  other  place  in  Mexico  — it  may  be  that  this  bitter 


376 


CATHEDRAL  OF  PUEBLA. 


hatred  induced  the  inhuman  treatment  bestowed  upon 
the  poor  Texans. 

After  passing  some  half  hour  in  the  loathsome  prison, 
receiving  such  messages  and  letters  as  the  inmates 
wished  us  to  convey  to  their  friends  in  Texas  and  the 
United  States,  we  took  our  leave  of  them  and  hurried 
back  to  our  hotel  to  a late  dinner  which  had  been  pro- 
vided. I had  wished  to  examine  the  interior  of  the  rich 
cathedra],  so  celebrated  in  the  works  of  every  traveller 
through  Mexico  for  its  exceeding  elegance  and  splen- 
dour of  adornment ; but  the  dusky  shades  of  evening 
had  set  in  before  I reached  the  edifice — the  light  was 
shut  out  from  the  interior,  and  with  it  went  my  hopes 
of  seeing  the  costly  chandelier,  the  famous  statue  of 
the  Virgin,  which  is  described  as  almost  crushed  under 
the  weight  of  diamonds  and  precious  stones,  with  the 
other  rich  ornaments  that  decorate  this  temple — all 
which  wealth  would  be  infinitely  better  applied  were 
the  priests  to  open  their  hearts  and  devote  it  to  the  con- 
struction of  railroads  and  canals,  mending  the  thorough- 
fares, meliorating  the  condition  of  the  lower  classes,  or 
even  paying  off  a portion  of  the  immense  internal  and 
foreign  debt  under  which  the  country  groans. 

It  was  while  this  cathedral  was  in  progress  of  erec- 
tion that  the  miraculous  aid  of  angels  in  the  good  work 
was  discovered.  Every  morning,  on  the  assemblage 
of  the  Mexican  builders,  they  noticed  with  much  sur- 
prise that  unseen  hands  had  been  toiling  through  the 
night  in  the  construction  of  the  walls.  That  they  must 
be  angels  was  considered  a matter  of  course — through 
no  other  agency  could  the  heavy  walls  arise — and  from 
that  day  to  this  the  city  has  been  called  Puebla  de  los 
Angeles,  or  “ City  of  the  Angels.”  It  is  a neat,  well- 
built  place,  containing  some  sixty  or  seventy  thousand 


A NOCTURNAL  PROCESSION. 


377 


inhabitants,  and  of  late  has  been  gaining  additional  im- 
portance from  the  establishment  of  numerous  factories 
in  the  vicinity.  I roamed  for  some  two  hours  through 
the  streets,  squares,  and  market-places,  jostling  my  way 
through  a crowd  of  ragged  leperos  on  one  occasion  for 
the  purpose  of  obtaining  a closer  look  at  a long  and 
brilliantly-lighted  religious  procession.  From  a dark 
doorway  I watched  the  kneeling  groups  of  men  and 
women  congregated  on  either  side  of  the  street  as  the 
procession  passed,  the  light  from  the  numerous  torches 
bringing  out  their  swarthy  features  in  bold  relief,  as  with 
deep  devotion  they  raised  their  eyes  upward  and  moved 
their  lips  apparently  in  prayer.  In  half  an  hour  after- 
ward, knowing  that  the  diligence  was  to  start  at  three 
the  next  morning,  I repaired  to  the  hotel,  and  was  soon 


378 


JOURNEY  RESUMED. 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Preparations  for  Departure. — High  Words  with  a Mexican  Stage-agent. — 
A Victory. — A Scotch  Traveller. — No  Room  for  another  Passenger. — 
Leave  the  “ City  of  the  Angels.”— -Approach  of  an  Escort. — Appearance 
of  the  Dragoons. — Arrival  at  £1  Pinal. — Roadside  Graves. — Change  of 
Horses.  — A wild  Mexican  Steed  and  his  Antics. — A rapid  Start. — A no- 
ted Stand  for  Robbers. — Another  doughty  Escort. — The  Mai  Pais  and  Cer- 
ro  de  Pizarro. — Arrival  at  Perote. — Visit  to  the  Texan  Prisoners. — Their 
Condition.— A vile  Supper. — A French  Lady. — Another  early  Start. — Cold- 
ness of  the  Mountain  Air. — A false  Alarm. — Colder  and  Colder. — Tierras 
Frias. — Arrival  at  Las  Vigas. — In  want  of  Refreshments. — “No  hai”  and 
“ Quien  sabe”  again. — Wild  Mountain  Scenery. — Volcapic  Formations.^— 
El  Cofre  de  Perote. — Strange  Indian  Legend.— Leave  the  Region  of  Lava. 
— Remarkable  Change  of  Scene  and  Climate. — Sudden  Transition. — Halt 
at  the  House  of  a Mexican  Lady. — Singularity  of  her  Conduct.  — La  Giie- 
ra  Rodriguez. — Examination  of  our  Passports  at  the  Garita. — Arrival  at 
Jalapa. 

We  were  awaked  at  two  o’clock  in  the  morning  by 
a servant  with  the  old  announcement,  which  has  annoy- 
ed so  many  thousands  of  travellers,  “ stage  is  ready, 
gentlemen.”  Huddling  on  our  clothes  as  rapidly  as 
possible,  we  descended  to  the  patio  of  the  hotel,  stum- 
bling over  a sleeping  Mexican  rolled  in  his  blanket  in 
the  passage-way,  and  treading  upon  one  leg  of  a worth- 
less cur,  which  went  whining  off  on  the  other  three. 

Repairing  at  once  to  the  stage,  we  found  one  of  our 
passengers  engaged  in  high  words  with  the  agent,  a 
Mexican,  who  insisted  upon  sending  a set  of  harness  to 
Perote  upon  the  top  of  the  coach.  There  were  fourteen 
passengers  belonging  to  our  party,  all  good-sized  men, 
and  these  fourteen  were  to  be  stowed  in  and  upon  a 
common,  Troy-built  coach,  intended  only  to  carry  nine 


OBSTINACY  DEFEATED. 


379 


inside,  with  a seat  for  two  on  the  box  with  the  driver. 
Of  course  three  of  us  were  compelled  to  perch  our- 
selves upon  the  extreme  top  of  the  coach,  and  as  a 
heavy  harness,  with  its  strong  iron  buckles  and  other 
appurtenances,  afforded  anything  but  a soft  or  comfort- 
able bed,  its  transportation  by  this  particular  stage,  it 
was  at  first  respectfully  contended,  was  putting  all 
hands  to  serious  annoyance.  The  agent  said  this  was 
a matter  we  must  settle  among  ourselves — the  harness 
he  was  obliged  to  forward  by  this  conveyance.  A pas- 
senger, who  had  already  taken  his  station  upon  the  top 
of  the  stage,  now  expressed  a doubt  whether  the  objec- 
tionable baggage  would  be  allowed  peaceable  and  quiet 
possession  of  its  quarters  in  case  the  Mexican  insisted 
upon  giving  it  a berth — the  latter,  after  a little  frothy 
vapour,  threw  the  harness  upon  the  stage.  The  next 
moment  a shower,  very  much  resembling  horse  collars, 
traces,  and  girths,  was  falling  upon  the  head  of  the 
agent,  accompanied  by  a general  laugh  at  his  expense. 
Finding  it  impossible  to  carry  his  point,  the  fellow  now 
slunk  into  the  office,  muttering  a variety  of  unbecoming 
Spanish  oaths  as  he  went. 

By  this  time  our  trunks  were  all  safely  stowed  in  the 
boot,  and  the  inside  of  the  stage  was  wedged  with  the 
substance  of  as  many  as  could  possibly  crowd  into  the 
contracted  quarters.  Some  of  the  younger  passengers 
— harum-scarum  fellows  who  were  anxious  that  the  la- 
drones  might  give  us  a call  upon  the  road — recom- 
mended that  we  should  all  conceal  our  weapons  under 
our  sarapes  and  cloaks.  A crowd  of  Mexicans  were 
standing  around  the  diligence,  some  of  whom  were  evi- 
dently spies ; and  it  was  thought  that  if  they  should  dis- 
cover no  arms  about  us  they  might  give  their  compan- 
ions such  information  as  would  draw  them  into  a snare 


380 


AN  INDISCREET  SCOTCHMAN. 


of  guns,  pistols,  swords,  and  bowie-knives.  But  this 
plan  was  overruled  by  one  of  the  older  and  more  pru- 
dent travellers,  on  the  ground  that  the  robbers,  should 
they  see  fit  to  attack  us,  would  probably  fire  directly 
into  the  stage  without  previous  parley,  and  thereby  gain 
an  advantage  at  the  expense,  perhaps,  of  the  lives  of 
some  of  the  passengers. 

As  we  were  about  leaving,  a Scotchman  came  hasti- 
ly down  the  stairs,  dragging  a trunk  by  the  handle, 
and  shouting  that  he  was  a passenger  for  Yera  Cruz, 
and  must  have  a seat.  There  are  two  stages  running 
daily  between  the  city  of  Mexico  and  Puebla,  in  one  of 
which,  with  a party  of  Mexicans,  he  had  made  the  trip 
on  the  previous  day ; but  as  this  stage  went  no  farther, 
the  Scotchman  was  anxious  to  go  directly  on  with  us. 
He  was  a stout,  healthy  man,  dressed  in  a suit  of  blue 
clothes,  and  as  he  well  knew  that  we  were  all  armed, 
no  better  chance  for  a safe  transit  to  himself  and  chat- 
tels could  possibly  offer.  We  told  him  there  was  no 
room — no  possible  opening  for  another  passenger : he 
said  he  had  a sum  of  money  about  him,  and  that  if  we 
did  not  give  him  a seat  he  should  be  robbed  of  it  the 
next  day — he  was  sure  he  should.  ITe  even  announced 
to  some  of  the  by-standing  Mexicans,  in  their  own  lan- 
guage, the  fact  of  his  having  money ; for  in  his  eager- 
ness to  obtain  a seat  with  us  he  was  drawn  into  a de- 
parture from  prudence  not  very  common  with  his  coun- 
trymen. On  finally  ascertaining,  to  his  own  conviction 
if  not  satisfaction,  that  there  was  no  room  for  him — not 
even  a chance  to  hang  on  to  any  part  of  the  stage — he 
reluctantly  gave  up  all  hope  of  prosecuting  his  journey 
until  the  morrow.  As  we  left  the  place,  after  having 
shaken  hands  for  the  last  time  with  Mr.  Black,  we  could 
still  see  the  sorrowful  countenance  of  the  poor  Scotch- 


PREPARATIONS  FOR  ROBBERS. 


381 


man,  as  he  stood  in  the  patio  with  one  end  of  his  trunk 
resting  against  his  knee,  while  his  fingers  were  securely 
clasped  around  the  handle. 

After  a short  drive  we  passed  the  outskirts  of  the 
“ City  of  the  Angels,”  and  struck  into  the  open  country. 
One  of  the  most  noted  stands,  or  rather  hiding-places, 
for  the  robbers,  is  within  hearing  of  the  town,  and  just 
as  we  were  reaching  the  spot  a clattering  of  horses’ 
hoofs  was  heard  rapidly  approaching.  Fourteen  pairs 
of  eyes  were  instantly  peering  into  the  darkness  to  as- 
certain the  nature  of  the  party,  while  at  least  twice 
fourteen  pairs  of  pistols  were  pointing  in  the  same  di- 
rection to  be  ready  for  any  emergency.  The  horse- 
men turned  out  to  be  a detachment  of  some  half  dozen 
dragoons,  sent  out  from  the  barracks  to  protect  and  suc- 
cour us  in  case  of  an  attack  from  the  ladrones.  Muf- 
fled in  their  yellow  military  cloaks,  for  the  early  morn- 
ing air  was  raw  and  biting,  the  fellows  appeared  well 
enough  as  their  horses  clattered  along  on  either  side  of 
the  stage;  but  we  were  now  seeing  them  in  the  most 
favourable  light.  Long  before  the  sun  had  risen  above 
the  eastern  mountains,  dispelling  that  darkness  and 
chillness  which  precede  daybreak,  our  doughty  guards- 
men had  uncloaked  themselves,  and  sat  before  us  in  all 
their  inefficiency.  Very  respectable  scarecrows  I have 
little  doubt  they  would  have  made,  stuck  about  judi- 
ciously in  a corn-field ; but  I have  a better  opinion  of 
the  Mexican  brigands  than  to  suppose,  for  one  moment, 
that  such  a set  of  ill-appointed,  badly-armed  apologies 
for  soldiers  could  in  the  least  intimidate  them  if  they 
had  meditated  an  attack.  We  openly  told  them  they 
might  canter  back  to  their  barracks,  and  finish  their 
morning  nap ; for  no  more  dependance  could  be  placed 
on  ihem  than  on  an  equal  number  of  the  crosses  stuck 


382 


A VICIOUS  HORSE. 


by  the  roadside.  With  the  first  appearance  of  danger 
they  would  undoubtedly  have  left  us,  and  at  a speed  as 
great  as  their  horses  could  conveniently  accomplish,  if 
not  faster. 

At  a rapid  pace  we  sped  across  the  valley  which  en- 
circles Puebla,  passing  the  noted  robbing-post  without 
meeting  other  than  the  usual  number  of  market  people, 
wending  their  way  to  the  city  and  driving  their  don- 
keys before  them.  Our  driver  allowed  his  horses  to 
slacken  their  pace  as  we  ascended  the  pine-clad  hills 
known  as  the  Pinal.  This  lonely  forest  is  another  noted 
haunt  for  the  ladrones  ; but  we  passed  through  it  seeing 
nothing  more  alarming  than  the  numerous  crosses 
which  pointed  to  the  spots  where  murder  had  done  its 
work,  and  hearing  naught  more  terrifying  than  the 
wind  sighing  mournfully  in  the  pine  tops — a sad  re- 
quiem, it  seemed,  for  the  rest  of  the  departed  victims. 
Many  thrilling  tales  did  our  driver  relate  of  these  road- 
side graves. 

About  the  middle  of  the  day  we  changed  horses  at  a 
meson  built  near  a large  spring  of  warmish  water.  The 
circumstance  I recollect  from  the  fact  that  one  of  the 
fresh  horses  was  a wild,  vicious  creature,  not  only  dis- 
posed to  break  our  necks,  but  having  no  apparent  mark- 
ed regard  for  the  safety  of  his  own.  In  Mexico  they 
frequently  hitch  five  horses  to  a stage,  two  on  the  pole 
as  is  the  custom  in  the  United  States,  while  the  three 
leaders  are  harnessed  abreast.  In  the  present  instance 
one  of  the  leaders  acted  as  wildly  as  would  a fresh- 
caught  mustang  ; leaped  entirely  over  the  heads  of  his 
fellows,  wound  himself  up  in  the  traces,  and  reared, 
pitched,  and  kicked  in  such  a manner,  notwithstanding 
the  efforts  of  half  a dozen  Mexican  hostlers,  that  he  was 


THE  TABLES  TURNED. 


383 


soon  free  from  all  encumbrances.  After  several  at- 
tempts, the  driver  was  so  far  successful  as  once  more 
to  place  harness  upon  the  vicious  animal’s  back  ; but  no 
sooner  had  the  stable  boys  released  him  from  the  strong 
halters  with  which  he  had  been  held,  than  he  jumped 
and  dashed  off  at  a furious  pace,  imparting  his  own 
fright  to  the  rest  of  the  team,  and  threatening  us  all 
with  a dangerous  upset.  For  some  distance  the  mad 
steed  pressed  forward,  the  driver  in  vain  attempting  to 
check  him ; and  it  was  only  when  much  exhausted  by 
his  efforts  that  he  slackened  his  onward  course  in  the 
least.  It  was  now  the  driver’s  turn.  “You’ve  run  a 
spell  on  your  own  account,”  said  the  Yankee,  address- 
ing the  tired  animal ; and  then,  after  a loud  crack  from 
his  whip,  finished  the  sentence  with  “ you’ve  got  to  run  a 
piece  farther  on  mine.”  And  run  he  did,  and  at  a rap- 
id pace  too ; for  determined  to  subdue  his  vicious  spir- 
it, and  break  him  of  his  mad  pranks,  the  driver  forced 
him  onward  until  the  reeking  team  could  no  longer 
withstand  the  killing  pace.  A short  time  after  this  oc- 
currence, we  approached  still  another  celebrated  stand 
for  robbers — a dreary  spot  upon  a wide,  sandy  plain, 
with  a few  scattering  clumps  of  thornbushes  and  rocky 
hills  in  the  vicinity,  which  afford  a cover  for  the  gentle- 
men of  the  road.  As  we  drew  near  the  spot  an  escort 
of  badly-mounted  dragoons  came  out  to  meet  us  from 
an  adobe-built  hovel  some  little  distance  from  the  road. 
As  they  formed  themselves  on  either  side  of  the  stage 
they  were  told  that  we  could  dispense  with  their  ser- 
vices ; but  the  valiant  fellows,  thinking  of  the  money 
which  it  is  expected  the  passengers  will  pay  them,  and 
of  the  drunken  frolic  which  is  sure  to  follow,  insisted 
upon  seeing  us  safely  through  all  dangers  as  far  as  Pe- 
rote. 


384 


PRISONERS  AT  PEROTE. 


It  was  about  four  o’clock  in  the  afternoon,  after  we 
had  crossed  the  mol  pais,  or  bad  country,  as  it  is  called, 
and  taken  a survey  of  the  huge  volcanic  mass  known 
as  the  Cerro  de  Pizarro,  that  we  reached  the  stage  tav- 
ern at  this  dreary  and  desolate  place.  As  we  entered 
the  patio  of  the  inn,  a crowd  of  bad-visaged  fellows  con- 
gregated about  us,  scrutinizing  our  weapons  and  the 
general  appearance  of  the  party.  If  some  of  them  were 
not  robbers  and  cutthroats,  their  faces  villanously  be- 
lied them. 

No  sooner  had  we  safely  secured  and  locked  up  our 
baggage,  than  we  inquired  and  took  the  way  towards 
the  castle  in  which  General  McLeod,  and  a party  of 
the  officers  and  men  attached  to  the  Santa  Fe  Expedi- 
tion, were  confined.  A short  parley  with  an  officer  at 
the  ponderous  gate  of  the  fortress,  and  we  were  permit- 
ted to  enter.  Our  former  comrades  had  just  returned 
from  their  work  at  a neighbouring  stone  quarry.  They 
crowded  around  us,  and  knowing  that  our  visit  must 
necessarily  be  short,  with  eager  inquiries  asked  intelli- 
gence in  relation  to  their  friends  at  Puebla  and  the  city 
of  Mexico — pressing  question  upon  question  in  such 
rapid  succession  that  to  answer  one  half  of  them  was 
impossible.  Their  situation,  in  many  respects,  was 
preferable  to  that  of  the  prisoners  at  Puebla,  for  their 
quarters  were  cleaner  and  more  comfortable,  and  the 
Mexican  criminals  were  confined  in  separate  apart- 
ments ; yet  the  castle  is  but  a cold  and  dreary  place  at 
best,  being  situated  at  an  elevation  far  above  the  level 
of  the  sea,  bleak  and  exposed,  and  where  the  biting 
winds  from  the  surrounding  snow-clad  mountains  have 
full  and  powerful  sway.  After  receiving  messages 
and  letters  innumerable  from  the  poor  fellows,  and 


THE  CHEST  OF  PEROTE. 


385 


promising  to  make  known  their  situation,  we  bade 
them  farewell,  and  retraced  our  steps  to  the  tavern.* 
Here  we  found  that  the  stage  from  Jalapa  had  ar- 
rived, and  that  our  supper  was  ready — a vile,  greasy 
repast,  to  which  nothing  lent  sauce  or  aid  save  the  re- 
membrance of  worse,  and  the  hearty  appetites  we  had 
contracted  by  our  long  ride.  Among  the  passengers 
from  Yera  Cruz  was  a French  lady  with  a little  child, 
the  mother  on  her  way,  without  a protector,  to  join  her 
husband  at  Zacatecas.  We  could  not  but  admire  the 
boldness  of  the  lone  female,  who  had  undertaken  a jour- 
ney so  long  and  so  perilous. 

After  smoking  our  cigars,  and  watching  the  ice-in- 
crusted  sides  of  the  towering  mountain  peaks  in  the  vi- 
cinity, as  the  setting  sun  clothed  them  with  silvery 
lustre,  we  retired  to  rest.  At  two  o’clock  in  the  morn- 
ing we  were  aroused  from  sleep  by  a servant,  and  in 
half  an  hour,  after  swallowing  a cup  of  chocolate  in  the 
dirty  cocina  attached  to  the  tavern,  we  muffled  our- 
selves in  cloaks,  greatcoats,  and  sarapes,  and,  shiver- 
ing with  the  early  morning  cold  of  this  bleak  region, 
took  our  seats  in  the  diligence  and  were  again  on  the 
road  towards  Jalapa. 

If  the  air  was  raw  and  chilly  at  starting,  it  was  doubly 
so  as  we  ascended  the  gradual  slope  which  brings  the 
traveller  near  the  base  of  the  celebrated  Cofre  de  Perote. 
We  had  entered  the  gorge  of  a gloomy  barranca,  such 
of  us  as  were  within  the  coach  nestling  close  to  each 
other  for  warmth  and  with  the  vain  hope  of  finishing 

* Notwithstanding  the  isolated  situation  and  great  strength  of  the  castle 
of  Perote,  several  successful  escapes  have  been  effected  within  the  past 
year  by  Texans  confined  within  its  walls.  They  suffered  much  from  want 
of  food,  water,  and  sufficient  clothing  in  the  mountains,  but  eventually  ar- 
rived safely,  either  in  the  United  States  or  Texas. 

VOL.  II.— K K 


386 


A FALSE  ALARM. 


the  sleep  from  which  we  had  been  disturbed,  when  the 
report  of  a heavy  pistol  from  the  top,  and  the  cry  of 
“ Ladrones !”  “ Ladrones !”  startled  us  as  with  an  elec- 
tric shock.  The  loud  laugh  from  the  region  of  the  dri- 
ver instantly  convinced  us  that  it  was  a false  alarm — 
an  eccentricity,  merely,  of  some  wag  on  the  top  of  the 
coach,  who  only  wished  to  get  up  a little  excitement. 
The  place  chosen  was  certainly  well  adapted  for  a joke 
of  the  kind ; for  a more  dark,  dismal,  piratical  haunt 
to  all  outward  seeming  was  never  chosen  by  free- 
booters. 

As  the  morning  advanced  towards  daybreak,  and  a 
higher  region  was  attained,  the  cold  appeared  to  in- 
crease. The  air  was  damp  and  disagreeable  to  a de- 
gree— a chill  fog  rested  lazily  in  the  lower  atmosphere 
■ — it  seemed  as  though  we  were  cutting  our  way  through 
frozen  clouds.  On  reaching  the  high  mountain  hamlet 
of  Las  Yigas#  we  were  directly  in  the  tierra  fria , or 
cold  country,  at  an  elevation  of  nearly  eight  thousand 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  driver  halted  for 
some  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  but  whether  to  change  or 
water  his  horses  I am  unable  to  say : I only  know  that 
we  dragged  our  benumbed  limbs  from  the  stage,  and  by 
dint  of  much  shouting,  pounding,  kicking,  and  knocking 
were  enabled  to  arouse  a Mexican  family  from  their 
slumbers  and  effect  an  entrance  within  doors.  No  oth- 
er refreshment  could  we  obtain  than  rank  Catalan  bran- 
dy, as  it  is  called,  strong  as  alcohol  itself,  and  with  the 
flavour  of  ley  or  a tea  made  of  potash.  With  teeth 
chattering  we  called  for  coffee,  chocolate  — for  some- 

* The  literal  translation  of  Las  Vigas  is  the  beams  or  timbers.  The  houses 
of  the  village  are  constructed  of  logs— the  first  and  almost  the  only  dwellings 
of  the  kind  1 saw  in  Mexico — a circumstance  from  which  the  place  probably 
received  its  name. 


ASCENDING  MOUNTAINS. 


387 


thing  warm.  “No  hai,”  was  the  chilling  answer.  We 
asked  the  stupid,  half-asleep  master  of  the  dwelling  if 
he  could  tell  us  where  we  could  obtain  the  desired  re- 
freshments. The  eternal  “ Quien  sabe?”  was  the  only 
rejoinder.  How  the  inhabitants  of  Las  Yigas  obtain 
a livelihood  is  a mystery.  Of  course  we  could  see  no- 
thing of  the  face  of  the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
village  ; but  judging  from  the  feeling  of  the  cold  mount- 
ain air,  it  would  seem  impossible  for  even  Greenland 
moss  to  withstand  it — so  keen,  so  cutting,  so  penetrating. 

Muffling  again  in  our  blankets  and  cloaks,  we  enter- 
ed the  stage  and  resumed  the  journey.  As  the  sun  be- 
gan to  disperse  the  mists  and  fogs  of  morning  we  were 
awakened  to  a full  realization  of  the  wild  mountain  gran- 
deur which  surrounded  us.  We  were  already  at  an 
elevation  several  thousand  feet  higher  than  the  loftiest 
summits  of  the  United  States  ; yet  it  seemed  to  us,  as 
we  gazed  upward  to  the  cloud-capped  peaks,  that  we 
were  at  the  base  of  huge,  towering  mountains,  thrusting 
their  lofty  heads  even  into  the  very  vault  of  heaven.  As  we 
commenced  descending  the  rough  and  rocky  road  which 
leads  down  the  lower  mountain  sides,  the  prospect  be- 
low us  was  concealed  by  an  immense  sea  of  misty, 
cloudy  vapour,  reaching  far  as  human  vision  could  pen- 
etrate— looking  back,  the  fog  was  still  above  us — it  ap- 
peared as  though  we  were  travelling  directly  between 
two  stratas  of  cloud.  Such  of  the  country  as  we  could 
see  immediately  around  us,  bore  evident  marks  of  its 
volcanic  formation.  In  one  spot  a huge  mass  of  rock, 
evidently  the  upheaving  of  some  strong  throe  of  nature, 
was  plainly  visible  ; in  another,  a bed  of  hard,  black 
lava,  with  the  appearance  of  having  been  poured  down 
in  a liquid  stream  and  of  having  cooled  as  it  fell,  gave 
farther  evidence  of  the  mighty  convulsions  nature  has 


388 


AN  EXTINCT  VOLCANO. 


undergone  in  this  wild  region  in  bygone  times,  and  of 
the  violent  and  tremendous  efforts  by  which  she  has  re- 
lieved herself  of  some  burning,  inward  fever.  The 
gnarled  and  stunted  firs  and  oaks,  which  have  found 
root  among  the  different  volcanic  masses,  show  that  they 
have  wrestled  powerfully  for  nourishment  and  growth. 

With  astonishment  the  traveller  looks  at  the  beds  of 
lava,  and  masses  of  broken  rock  he  sees  on  every  side 
— so  fresh  and  with  such  a seeming  newness  that  he 
cannot  imagine  more  than  a few  months,  or  years  at  far- 
thest, to  have  rolled  away  since  they  were  first  deposit- 
ed ; yet  even  the  oldest  legends  of  the  aborigines,  their 
most  remote  traditions,  carry  him  not  back  to  the  awful 
disruption  which  placed  them  theVe.  The  Indians  point 
to  the  now  extinct  volcano  upon  the  Cofre  de  Perote 
as  the  point  from  which  came  the  shower  of  burning 
lava  and  rocks  that  has  rendered  this  section  desolate, 
but  offer  no  surmise  as  to  the  time  when  the  crater 
belched  forth  its  storm  of  destruction  ; and  the  mind,  in 
attempting  to  trace  the  interval  which  has  since  elap- 
sed, is  soon  lost  in  the  wide  and  mazy  fields  of  conjec- 
ture. 

El  Cofre  de  Perote,  or  The  Chest  of  Perote — so  call- 
ed from  the  fact  that  its  sides  bear  strong  resemblance 
to  a trunk  or  chest — was,  ages  since,  a volcano,  and  the 
different  volcanic  formations  over  which  we  were  now 
journeying  were  doubtless  belched  from  its  yawning  but 
long-smothered  crater.  Awful  must  have  been  the 
throes,  the  mighty  workings  and  convulsions,  of  the 
huge  mass  of  mountain  while  in  labour.  Imagination 
shudders  and  turns  pale,  the  mind  is  awe-stricken,  as 
the  immense  rocks  are  reviewed  by  the  eye  — rocks 
which  are  of  themselves  hills,  and  which  must  have  been 
quarried,  torn,  riven,  and  hurled  upward  from  the  bow- 


SINGULAR  INDIAN  LEGEND. 


389 


els  of  the  earth  by  the  elemental  fever  within,  and,  af- 
ter soaring  high  in  air,  descended,  amid  streams  of 
burning  lava,  a red-hot  deluge  of  mighty  fragments. 

I have  said  that  the  Indians  have  no  tradition  of  the 
time  when  this  terrible  convulsion  occurred,  but  they  re- 
late a story  of  its  causes  and  effects — a story  which  I 
will  here  insert  for  its  singularity  and  simplicity.  Pre- 
vious to  the  first  eruption,  the  mountain  was  fertile, 
peaceful,  and  well  behaved  as  its  brother  mountains, 
and  was  the  joint  property  of  a deer,  a tiger,  a leopard, 
and  a bear.  For  a long  time  these  animals,  so  discord- 
ant in  temperament,  lived  in  the  greatest  amity  togeth- 
er, each  roaming  over  a particular  section  which  was 
set  apart  for  him,  and  never  trespassing  upon  the  land 
of  his  neighbour ; but  by-and-by  the  bear,  either  from 
lack  of  forage  within  Iris  own  specified  limits,  or  from  a 
natural  proneness  to  interfere  with  the  just  rights  of  his 
neighbours,  crossed,  after  the  manner  of  certain  govern- 
ments of  more  recent  times,  the  prescribed  boundary 
lines,  and  made  inroads  upon  the  domain  adjoining  his 
own  territory.  The  deer,  the  tiger,  and  the  leopard, 
upon  learning  this  trespass,  held  public  consultation,  and 
warned  their  neighbour  of  his  encroachments  and  of 
their  determination  not  to  submit  to  outrages  of  the 
kind.  The  bear  threw  defiance  in  their  teeth,  and  in- 
sisted upon  roaming  the  mountain-sides  at  will ; where- 
upon the  deer,  the  tiger,  and  the  leopard  made  common 
cause  against  a common  enemy,  joined  their  forces,  and 
declared  war  at  once.  What  part  the  deer  took  in  this 
struggle  is  not  related,  but  among  them  they  drove, 
worried,  and  chased  the  bear  from  point  to  point,  giv- 
ing no  rest  to  the  soles  of  his  feet  until  he  reached  the 
summit  of  the  mountain,  where  they  encompassed  and 
beleaguered  him  about  with  the  full  intention  of  starv- 
K k 2 


390 


THE  FIRE  KING. 


ing  him  into  terms.  But  the  bear  was  not  to  be  thus 
hemmed  in  by  his  adversaries ; so,  bethinking  him  that 
there  was  no  other  means  of  escape,  he  commenced 
digging  through  the  mountain  with  his  paws,  firmly  de- 
termined uporl  working  a passage  to  the  lower  side. 
Deeper  and  deeper  did  he  force  his  way,  toiling  dili- 
gently, until  at  length  he  came  upon  the  evil  spirit  Tla- 
catecolototl,  who  was  lying  asleep  in  an  immense  fire 
cave.  Not  aware  of  this  new  danger,  the  bear  still 
pawed  and  dug  away,  and  not  until  he  had  scratched 
the  slumbering  fiend  upon  the  nose  did  he  cease  from 
his  labour.  Tlacatecolototl  awoke  from  his  sleep,  and 
instantly  all  was  rumbling  and  commotion.  The  bear 
retreated  upward ; but  the  enraged  fiend  pursued  him 
with  a shower  of  fire,  and  drove  him  for  succour  to  his 
former  enemies.  lie  hugged,  with  all  love  and  famil- 
iarity, the  deer,  the  tiger,  and  the  leopard  wherever  he 
met  them,  and  was  successful  in  quieting  their  just  dis- 
pleasure ; but  the  fury  of  the  fire-fiend  was  not  to  be 
appeased.  He  pursued  the  bear  with  red-hot  stones, 
with  streams  of  burning  lava,  with  an  avalanche  of  fire 
— his  rage  waxed  fiercer  and  more  fierce — the  fair 
mountain-sides  were  lurid  and  made  desolate  with  the 
implements  of  his  strange  revenge — and  never  did  the 
torrent  of  destruction  slacken  until  a good  Indian  shot 
the  bear  and  ate  him  : then  was  the  mighty  wrath  of 
Tlacatecolototl  assuaged,  and  he  retired  once  more  to 
his  bed  of  fire.  Such  is  the  marvellous  tradition  of  the 
simple  natives  in  relation  to  this  long  extinct  volcano. 

As  we  left  the  region  of  lava,  the  morning  air  became 
more  mild,  vegetation  of  more  luxuriant  growth  took 
the  place  of  the  stunted  pines  and  firs,  and  the  ocean  of 
vapour  far  below  us  began  to  dissipate  under  the  influ- 
ence of  the  sun.  Turning  our  eyes  back,  we  could  see 


SUDDEN  TRANSITIONS. 


391 


scudding  masses  of  fog  and  cloud  creeping  up  the 
mountain-sides,  and  fast  hiding  and  dispersing  them- 
selves apparently  among  the  clefts  and  fissures.  The 
stage  rattled  more  rapidly  down  the  winding  road,  and 
at  every  step  new  beauties  presented  themselves.  Ev- 
ery revolution  of  the  wheels  seemed  to  bring  us  into  a 
new  climate — each  succeeding  minute  brought  with  it 
an  air  more  bland  and  balmy.  Birds  of  bright  plumage 
were  seen  crossing  the  road,  and  fluttering  from  copse 
to  copse  of  deep-green  foliage,  while  here  and  there  a 
rude  dwelling,  surrounded  by  a small  patch  of  ground 
richly  cultivated,  relieved  the  rugged  asperities  of  the 
mountain  cliffs.  So  sudden  is  the  transition,  that  a short 
hour  conducts  the  traveller  from  bleak  and  dreary  win- 
ter to  bright  and  sunny  spring — a winter  which  it  seems 
to  him  is  unchangeable,  a spring  which  is  eternal.  At 
one  moment,  as  it  were,  he  is  shrugging,  shivering,  and 
rubbing  his  hands  in  the  tierras  frias — the  next  he  is 
basking  in  the  soft  sunshine  of  the  tierras  templadas , 
or  temperate  lands,  amid  orange  groves  and  flowers  in- 
numerable. A single  day’s  travel  in  Mexico  carries 
the  traveller  from  the  heat  and  verdure  of  unchanging 
summer,  to  the  cold  and  sterile  face  of  undying  winter. 

When  within  a few  short  miles  of  Jalapa,  the  morn- 
ing fog  had  entirely  dispersed,  the  sun  was  out  in  all 
his  splendour,  and  the  ocean  of  cloud  had  given  way  to 
a vast  expanse  of  green — we  were  looking  down  upon 
the  tierra  caliente,  the  land  of  summer’s  heat  and  sum- 
mer’s verdure.  The  driver  halted  for  a few  moments 
at  the  house  of  a Mexican  lady,  and  allowed  us  to  alight. 
We  entered  the  dwelling,  the  front  of  which  was  al- 
most concealed  from  view  by  creeping  vines  and  differ- 
ent species  of  rose  and  other  flowering  bushes.  The 
mistress  of  this  sylvan  retreat,  a stout,  handsome-faced 


392 


LOVE  AND  CONSTANCY. 


woman,  some  thirty  years  of  age,  instantly  beset  us 
with  inquiries  in  relation  to  some  American  she  had 
known  formerly — a colonel  she  called  him,  but  the 
name  I do  not  remember.  His  hair,  features,  size,  and 
all  were  described  with  a minuteness  which  convinced 
us  that  his  image  still  lingered  in  the  memory  of  the 
fair  questioner,  but  not  one  of  us  could  give  her  infor- 
mation which  seemed  satisfactory.  She  kindly  asked 
us  to  partake  of  refreshments ; but  mingled  with  her 
pressing  invitations  were  farther  inquiries  about  the 
colonel — thoughts  of  one,  who  evidently  occupied  a 
strong  hold  in  her  affections,  never  left  her  while  there 
was  a ray  of  hope  that  some  one  of  us  might  possibly 
know  him. 

When  we  were  again  on  the  road,  the  driver  inform- 
ed us  that  for  many  years  this  woman  had  been  earnest 
in  her  inquiries  respecting  the  colonel.  In  her  artless 
simplicity  she  had  asked  all  foreigners  alike  for  informa- 
tion— one  whom  she  knew  so  well  must  surely  be  known 
by  others — but  had  never  been  able  to  gather  a gleam 
of  intelligence  of  the  long-lost  one.  Love,  as  a matter 
of  course,  was  at  the  bottom  — was  the  mainspring 
which  actuated  her  in  her  inquiries.  Some  roving, 
blue-eyed,  light-haired  American  had  won  her  affections 
in  early  life,  and  those  affections  continue  as  warm  as 
ever  for  the  guero , as  she  called  him.  In  Mexico  all 
light-haired  men  are  termed  guero — yellow  locks,  blue 
eyes,  and  a fair  complexion,  are  so  uncommon  in  that 
country,  that  the  possession  of  them  is  a passport  di- 
rectly to  the  affections  of  the  opposite  sex.  Among  the 
celebrated  beauties  of  Mexico,  and  one  who  held  sway 
as  a reigning  belle  for  many  years,  was  La  Giiera 
Rodriguez,  or  The  Light-haired  Rodriguez.  In  Hum- 
boldt’s time  her  empire  over  the  hearts  of  all  was  su- 


JALAPA. 


393 


preme  in  Mexico ; and  although  a beautiful  and  fasci- 
nating woman  in  every  respect,  much  of  her  celebrity 
and  ascendancy  she  owed  to  the  circumstance  of  her 
having  light  hair.  She  is  still  alive,  I believe,  and  her 
society  is  still  courted  by  all,  although  her  light  locks 
have  long  since  faded. 

From  the  residence  of  the  Mexican  lady  at  which  we 
had  called — a place  where  the  driver  stops  to  water  his 
horses  and  allow  her  to  press  her  questions  — the  road 
runs  through  a cultivated  country  until  it  reaches  Jala- 
pa,  distant  some  three  or  four  miles.  It  was  Sunday, 
and  the  road  was  filled,  chiefly  with  pedestrians,  on  their 
way  to  the  city  to  mass,  to  market,  or  some  merry- 
making. The  air  was  richly  perfumed  with  the  fra- 
grance of  innumerable  flowers — the  roadside  was  bor- 
dered with  that  luxuriant  vegetation  which  appears  to 
belong  to  this  climate.  We  were  compelled  to  halt  a 
few  minutes  at  the  garita  to  show  our  passports — this 
examination  over,  we  were  again  on  the  road,  and  in  a 
short  time  were  descending  the  steep  declivity  which 
has  been  chosen  as  the  site  for  Jalapa.  The  stage 
wound  slowly  down  the  precipitous  streets,  passed 
through  the  crowded  market-place,  turned  into  the 
Calle  Principal,  and  safely  deposited  us  in  the  patio  of 
the  Casa  de  Diligencias  in  season  for  breakfast.  We 
were  now  revelling  in  a soft  and  wooing  climate,  of 
spring-like  temperature — two  hours  before  we  were 
shivering  in  an  atmosphere  which  would  freeze  an  Ice- 
lander. 


394 


MEXICAN  SOLDIERS. 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

The  Cracovienne. — Large  Body  of  Mexican  Troops. — Their  Inefficiency .- 
Speculations  as  to  the  Result  of  an  Invasion  of  Mexico. — The  Vomito  at 
Vera  Cruz. — Determination  to  remain  at  Jalapa. — The  Scotchman  we  had 
left  at  Puebla  arrives.— Work  of  the  Robbers.  — Indian  Girls  from  the 
Tierra  Caliente. — Picturesque  and  neat  Style  of  Dressing  their  Hair. — A 
pleasant  Ride.  — Departure  from  Jalapa.  — Description  of  the  Litera. — 
Changing  Teams.  — Mexican  Drivers.  — Puente  Nacional.^Night  Ride 
through  the  Hot  Country.— Residence  of  Santa  Anna. — Fireflies. — Santa 
Fe. — Number  of  Dogs  in  the  Vicinity. — Singular  District.— The  Gulf  of 
Mexico  in  Sight. — Arrival  at  Vera  Cruz. — A Conducta. — Sopilotes. — The 
Black  Vomit  again.- — Arrival  on  board  the  Woodbury. — Commodore  Ma 
rin. — Salutes. — Under  Way. — Pleasant  Passage. — The  Balize  in  Sight. — 
Author’s  Leave  of  his  Reader. 

We  had  no  sooner  alighted  from  the  stage,  stretched 
our  stiffened  limbs,  and  attended  well  to  the  safety  of 
our  baggage,  than  the  enlivening  notes  of  the  Cfaco- 
vienne,  played  by  a large  and  well-organized  military 
band,  reached  our  ears  from  without.  On  going  to  the 
front  doors  and  balconies  of  the  hotel,  we  ascertained 
that  there  was  a full  parade  of  all  the  regular  troops 
then  stationed  at  Jalapa,  several  thousands  in  number, 
and  for  half  an  hour  we  watched  the  solid  platoons  as 
they  marched  past.  A majority  of  the  men,  although 
they  were  now  cleaned  up  and  had  uniforms  upon  their 
backs,  were  doubtless  ragged  and  wretched  convicts 
but  a few  months  before,  and  driven  to  the  capital  tied 
in  strings.  Such  men,  destitute  alike  of  moral  princi- 
ple, pride,  and  that  love  of  country  which  is  a main  re- 
quisite, can  never  be  manufactured  into  effective  sol- 
diers under  any  discipline  ; but  when  to  their  natural 
deficiencies  is  added  the  fact  that  the  majority  of  their 


DEFENCES  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 


395 


officers  are  taken  from  the  higher  classes  and  placed  at 
once  at  the  heads  of  companies  and  regiments,  without 
either  theoretical  or  practical  knowledge  of  arms,  little 
need  be  expected  from  a force  thus  constituted.  In 
case  of  a foreign  invasion,  such  a force  could  be  crush- 
ed at  once  by  one  fourth  the  number  of  well-disciplined 
troops  ; but  the  invading  army  would  encounter  other 
difficulties  than  the  meeting  with  such  defenders.  It  is 
much  easier  to  say  that  ten  thousand  well-appointed 
Americans  or  Englishmen  can  march  from  the  seacoast 
directly  to  the  city  of  Mexico  than  to  do  it.  The  ordi- 
nary troops  of  the  country  would  offer  but  few  obsta- 
cles, would  be  little  in  the  way  could  they  be  brought 
to  battle  in  the  open  field ; the  strong  natural  barriers 
against  invasion  in  the  shape  of  mountain  fastnesses,  a 
better  class  of  troops  to  be  met  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
capital,  the  opposition  of  the  hardy  rancheros  who 
would  at  once  be  drawn  into  the  contest,  combined 
with  a religious  phrensy  which  would  doubtless  be  crea- 
ted and  kept  np  by  the  priests — all  these  obstacles  must 
be  encountered  on  the  road  to  Mexico.  I do  not  say 
that  they  could  not  be  surmounted  — far  from  it — I 
only  wish  to  offer  the  opinion  that  something  more 
than  mere  hoi  yd  ay  work  might  be  expected  by  those 
who  should  set  out  on  such  an  undertaking.  Of  the 
troops  we  saw  that  morning  at  Jalapa  a large  portion 
have  since  perished — some  at  Vera  Cruz,  but  the  great- 
er number  in  Y ucatan,  where  they  were  either  cut  off 
in  the  vain  attempt  of  Santa  Anna  to  subdue  his  refrac- 
tory subjects  during  the  years  ’42  and  ’43,  or  by  the 
malaria  and  dreaded  sickness  of  that  unhealthy  cli- 
mate. 

On  arriving  at  Jalapa,  Judge  Ellis  found  letters  await- 
ing him  which  gave  the  information  that  the  vomito,  or 


396 


THE  SCOTCHMAN  AGAIN. 


yellow  fever,  had  broken  out  on  board  the  cutter  Wood- 
bury, the  vessel  in  which  we  were  to  sail  forNew-Orleans, 
and  which  was  then  lying  under  the  Castle  of  San  Juan 
de  Ulua  at  Vera  Cruz.  One  or  two  of  the  officers,  be- 
sides several  of  the  men,  were  down  with  the  disease, 
and  as  it  was  deemed  imprudent  to  sail  with  it  on  board, 
Judge  E.  was  advised  to  remain  at  Jalapa  until  farther 
intelligence  should  be  sent  him.  Several  of  the  passen- 
gers determined  upon  proceeding  at  once  to  Yera  Cruz, 
regardless  of  the  fever ; but  the  larger  number  remain- 
ed behind,  and  took  lodgings  which  the  ex-minister  pro- 
cured for  us  at  the  hotel  of  an  American. 

On  the  arrival  of  the  next  stage  from  Puebla,  we 
crowded  around  it  to  note  the  passengers  and  gather 
any  intelligence  that  might  be  brought.  There  were 
but  five  travellers,  three  or  four  of  them  Mexican  offi- 
cers, and  our  Scotch  friend  for  whom  we  could  not  make 
room  the  morning  we  left  the  “ City  of  the  Angels.” 
His  face  wore  a lugubriously  comie  expression  as  he 
alighted  from  the  diligence,  while  his  vestments  gave 
token  of  a change  of  wardrobe  other  than  the  difference 
of  climate  called  for.  Instead  of  the  substantial  blue 
cloth  coat,  of  goodly  dimensions  and  excellent  preser- 
vation, which  had  graced  his  upper  man  when  we  left 
him  standing  by  his  trunk,  his  arms  and  shoulders  were 
now  tightly  encased  within  a yellow  Nankin  short  jack- 
et, a world  too  small,  while  his  head  was  partially  cov- 
ered by  a queer  hat  much  the  worse  for  wear.  He 
recognised  us  immediately,  and  with  a face  half-sorrow- 
ful, half-upbraiding,  exclaimed,  “You  see  me,”  at  the 
same  time  turning  himself  round  so  that  we  could  be 
brought  to  a full  realization  of  his  unfortunate  plight. 
“ I told  you  so,”  he  continued,  “ I knew  it — I said  so  at 
first.  Talk  about  Scotch  mists — I came  near  perishing 


DELIGHTS  OF  JALAPA. 


397 


this  morning  on  the  mountains — greatcoat  and  all  are 
gone.”  Not  one  word  did  he  say  about  robbers ; yet 
his  broken  sentences  and  forlorn  appearance  told  plain- 
ly enough  that  he  had  fallen  into  the  hands  of  highway- 
men. After  a little,  he  related  the  particulars  of  his 
having  been  robbed  a few  miles  from  Puebla.  The 
brigands  had  an  easy  task,  as  save  himself  there  was  no 
foreigner  in  the  coach.  The  passengers,  one  and  all, 
were  compelled  to  lie  down  with  their  faces  to  the  earth, 
were  stripped  of  everything  valuable  in  the  shape  of 
money  and  clothing,  and  then  allowed  to  proceed.  In 
telling  his  story,  the  Scotchman  mixed  up  with  his  dis- 
course hearty  and  abundant  curses  against  the  Mexi- 
cans in  general  and  the  ladrones  in  particular,  conclu- 
ding with  the  remark  that  if  he  was  once  more  fortunate 
enough  to  see  his  own  native  hills  he  would  not  be 
caught  in  outlandish  parts  again  ; but  the  most  amusing 
feature  of  it  was,  the  pride  he  appeared  to  take  in  his 
powers  of  divination — in  the  fact  of  his  having  told  us, 
at  Puebla,  that  he  should  be  robbed,  and  the  event  turn- 
ing out  precisely  as  he  had  anticipated. 

We  passed  some  week  or  ten  days  at  Jalapa,  and 
pleasantly,  too ; for  nothing  can  exceed  the  balminess 
and  spring-like  beauties  of  its  climate,  the  exceeding 
richness  of  its  endless  variety  of  fruits,  the  delicious  fra- 
grance of  its  atmosphere,  which  is  loaded  with  the  per- 
fume of  innumerable  flowers,  or  the  picturesque  views 
and  romantic  rides  which  abound  in  its  vicinity.  Pine- 
apples, gathered  from  the  stem  ripe  and  of  most  luscious 
flavour,  can  be  purchased  for  a trifle,  and  in  this  pure 
climate  eaten  without  fear  of  consequences.  Chirimo- 
yas  here  arrive  at  their  full  perfection,  bananas,  such  as 
I have  never  seen  elsewhere,  grow  in  most  lavish  pro- 
fusion, while  all  the  fruits  of  the  tropics  appear  to  be 

Vol.  II.— L L 


398 


INDIAN  GIRLS. 


found  in  abundance.  Often  did  I watch  a party  of  In- 
dian girls  from  the  tierra  caliente  below,  sitting  upon 
the  sidewalk  opposite  the  Casa  de  Diligencias,  selling, 
for  a few  coppers,  plums  of  rare  and  delicious  quality. 
Their  loose  dress  seemed  peculiarly  adapted  to  the  cli- 
mate, and  would  of  itself  attract  not  a little  attention 
from  the  foreigner ; but  their  rich,  bright  olive  complex- 
ions, their  dark,  mild  eyes,  and  luxuriant  hair,  of  glossy 
blackness  and  reaching  nearly  to  the  ground,  formed 
their  principal  attractions.  Upon  their  hair  they  be- 
stow all  their  care  and  attention,  and  justly  are  they 
proud  of  it.  Their  mode  of  dressing  this  ornamental 
appendage  is  peculiarly  their  own.  Two  long  braids, 
reaching  nearly  to  the  ground,  fall  from  the  back  of  the 
head,  while  two  other  braids,  after  circling  the  head 
twice,  are  fastened  in  front,  with  a rose  or  some  other 
flower  confined  at  the  point  where  the  ends  meet. 
These  braids  are  composed  of  two  strands  of  hair  and 
one  of  red  cord  or  riband,  neatly  platted,  lending  an  ad- 
ditional beauty  to  their  otherwise  picturesque  appear- 
ance. Their  dress  is  simple  enough,  consisting  of  a pet- 
ticoat of  some  woollen  stuff,  without  an  under  garment 
of  any  description  ; but  in  place  of  the  latter  they  wear 
an  oblong  piece  of  cotton  or  linen  cloth,  elaborately  or- 
namented, in  many  cases,  with  needlework,  over  their 
shoulders  as  a protection  from  the  sun.  Directly  in  the 
centre  a hole  is  cut,  large  enough  to  admit  the  head — 
thus  is  this  singular  garment  worn,  and  it  certainly  has 
a cool  and  comfortable  appearance  in  a warm  climate, 
if  nothing  more. 

We  were  told  that  the  girls  lived  at  a village  several 
leagues  below  Jalapa,  a romantic  situation  upon  the 
borders  of  a clear  and  swift  stream,  in  which  they  bathe 
and  wash  their  hair  twice  a day.  The  males  are  de- 


TROPICAL  ABUNDANCE. 


399 


scribed  as  lazy,  worthless,  drunken  fellows,  living  en- 
tirely upon  the  industry  of  the  women  ; but  the  latter 
are  invariably  cleanly,  frugal,  laborious,  and,  singular 
enough  for  this  country,  virtuous.  We  intended  paying 
their  village  a visit  before  we  came  away,  for  we  heard 
many  stories  of  its  surpassing  beauty  of  location  ; but 
some  circumstance  which  I have  now  forgotten  pre- 
vented us.  A party  of  us,  however,  had  a pleasant  ride 
to  another  Indian  town  several  leagues  below  Jalapa. 
It  was  during  this  excursion  that  I for  the  first  time  saw 
the  coffee  plant,  the  pineapple,  the  vanilla  bean,  and 
other  products  of  the  tropics,  under  cultivation,  as  also 
the  weed  from  which  the  nauseous  jalap,  that  medi- 
cine which  has  given  this  place  a name,  is  extracted. 
The  view  of  the  city  from  several  points  below,  as  it 
stands  boldly  out  on  the  mountain  side  at  an  elevation 
of  more  than  four  thousand  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
sea,  is  peculiarly  picturesque.  The  towering  Cofre  de 
Perote,  rising  high  in  air,  affords  a majestic  background 
to  the  view,  while  still  higher,  and  with  its  snow-capped 
summit  apparently  reaching  the  blue  vault  of  heaven  it- 
self, the  traveller  catches  an  occasional  view  of  Orizava 
as  some  opening  in  the  trees  allow's  the  eye  full  scope 
to  the  southward. 

On  the  8th  of  May,  after  passing,  as  I have  already 
mentioned,  several  days  very  pleasantly  at  Jalapa,  Judge 
Ellis  received  intelligence  from  Vera  Cruz  that  the  vom- 
ito  had  left  the  Woodbury,  and  that  everything  was  in 
readiness  for  her  instant  departure.  The  following  day, 
therefore,  saw  us  once  more  in  the  diligence  and  on  our 
road  homeward.  While  at  Jalapa,  I had  several  times 
noticed  the  arrival  and  departure  of  the  literas,  and  had 
intended  to  take  a seat,  or  rather  a couch,  in  one  of 
these  easy  vehicles  ; but  as  my  passage  had  been  paid 


400 


THE  LITERA. 


in  the  diligence,  and  as  the  latter  ran  through  in  less 
time,  I was  compelled  to  give  up  all  thought  of  being 
thus  transported.  The  litera  is  a box  some  six  or  seven 
feet  long  by  about  four  in  width,  with  a top  and  cover- 
ing somewhat  resembling  that  of  a common  Jersey  wag- 
on. Within  is  a mattress  of  sufficient  width  to  accom- 
modate two  passengers,  with  pillows  and  other  comforts. 
The  box  is  placed  upon  two  long  shafts  or  poles,  which 
are  lifted  from  the  ground  and  securely  fastened  to  the 
saddles  of  a pair  of  mules,  one  at  either  end  of  the  litera. 
When  everything  is  in  readiness,  the  passenger  has 
nothing  to  do  but  climb  into  his  quarters,  where  he  can 
sit,  lie,  sleep,  read,  or  smoke,  as  may  best  please  him.  I 
certainly  envied  a gentleman  whom  I saw  one  morning, 
half  lying  upon  his  back  in  an  easy  posture,  with  a book 
in  his  hand  and  a cigar  in  his  mouth.  He  seemed  the 
very  personification  of  comfort. 

As  we  rattled  through  the  principal  street  of  Jalapa, 
and  crossed  a little  stream,  which  dashes  through  the 
city,  the  eyes  of  all,  but  more  particularly  those  of  a 
group  of  washing-girls,*  were  drawn  towards  us ; for 
the  top  and  sides  of  the  stage  were  ornamented  with 
bird-cages,  flower-pots,  plants  of  different  descriptions, 
fruits,  of  which  we  had  laid  in  or  on  a goodly  store,  be- 
sides many  usefuls  and  ornamentals  which  had  been 
picked  up  and  collected  by  the  different  members  of 
our  party.  One  gentleman  in  particular,  of  much  taste 
in  such  matters,  had  purchased  an  assortment  of  tropi- 
cal birds  and  plants,  so  that  when  we  were  in  motion 
the  diligence  bore  close  resemblance  to  a travelling 

* There  are  one  or  two  establishments  in  Jalapa  devoted  entirely  to  the 
washing  of  clothes,  at  which  numerous  girls  can  be  seen  at  all  times  work- 
ing under  the  shelter  of  a roof,  but  in  a building  which  has  no  sides.  So 
white,  and  with  such  care  do  these  girls  get  up  linen,  that  it  was  told  us  they 
received  custom  even  from  Vera  Cruz. 


DEPARTURE  FROM  JALAPA. 


401 


aviary  set  in  the  midst  of  a floating  botanical  garden. 
No  wonder,  then,  that  we  attracted  more  than  usual  at- 
tention. 

In  half  an  hour  we  left  the  outskirts  of  the  city — a 
city  so  celebrated  for  its  delightful  climate,  its  delicious 
fruits,  and  its  pretty  women — and  began  gradually  to 
descend  the  mountains  towards  the  tierra  c.aliente.  A+ 
the  first  place  where  we  changed  teams  we  met  the 
stage  from  Vera  Cruz.  Among  the  passengers  was  Mr. 
Dorsey,  just  arrived  from  the  United  States  with  de- 
spatches for  General  Thompson,  and  on  his  way  to  the 
city  of  Mexico.  Instead  of  one  Yankee  we  now  had 
two  Mexican  drivers  for  the  diligence — instead  of  hor- 
ses, the  animals  attached  were  a set  of  tolerably  well- 
behaved  mules.  One  of  the  drivers  acted  as  postillion, 
riding  upon  a mule  in  the  lead  ; the  other  sat  upon  the 
box,  and  appeared  to  have  his  hands  full  in  so  managing 
the  wheel  mules  as  to  prevent  an  upset.  The  road,  in 
many  places,  is  extremely  rough  and  uneven,  and  that 
we  should  meet  with  some  serious  accident  appeared 
inevitable ; but  darkness  came  and  we  were  yet  safe, 
and  as  it  was  now  impossible  to  see  the  dangers  which 
beset  our  path,  we  gradually  became  more  reconciled. 
In  this  way  we  passed  Encero,  Plan  del  Rio,  with  other 
small  hamlets  the  names  of  which,  if  they  have  any,  are 
forgotten.  I recollect  the  crossing  of  the  heavy  bridge 
called,  since  the  revolution,  Puente  Nacional,  and  of 
seeing  the  large  village  near  it.#  At  a fonda  by  the 
roadside  we  obtained  a very  fair  supper,  and  saw  a very 
pretty  girl — the  circumstance  that  the  chairs,  which  the 

* Several  of  the  Texan  prisoners,  who  were  released  by  Santa  Anna  in 
the  June  following,  died  of  yellow  fever,  and  were  buried  near  this  bridge. 
Among  them  were  Doctor  Whittaker  and  Lieutenant  Seavy.  Captain  Hol- 
liday died  of  the  same  disease  on  his  passage  from  Vera  Cruz  to  Galveston. 

L L 2 


402 


THE  TIERRA  CAL1ENTE. 


Mexican  landlord  had  provided  for  the  accommodation 
of  his  foreign  customers,  were  so  low  that  to  sit  in  them 
while  eating  was  extremely  tiresome,  is  another  souve- 
nir I brought  from  this  place. 

We  were  now  directly  in  the  heart  of  the  tierra  ca- 
liente — amid  the  rank  vegetation,  the  deadly  malaria,  the 
suffocating  heat  of  the  hot,  tropical  climates.  Innumer- 
able fireflies  or  bugs,  of  large  size,  and  shedding  a pale 
but  brilliant  light,  were  flitting  about  in  the  bushes  by 
the  roadside,  and  illuminating  the  dense  masses  of 
creeping  vines  with  which  the  forests  of  the  warm 
countries  abound.  At  midnight,  or  a little  after,  we 
were  travelling  through  the  immense  estate  of  Santa 
Anna,  Manga  de  Clavo  I think  it  is  called.  To  this 
place  he  has  always  retired  after  his  reverses,  and  here, 
it  is  said,  all  his  plans  for  his  own  political  advancement 
have  been  formed.  About  three  o’clock  in  the  morn- 
ing we  reached  the  village  of  Santa  Fe,  and  while  the 
driver  was  changing  his  animals  we  awakened  two  or 
three  families  in  the  hope  of  obtaining  chocolate  or  some 
other  refreshment.  Nothing  could  we  procure  save  a 
bottle  of  bad  claret,  and  a draught  of  Catalan  brandy 
which  was  worse.  It  is  impossible  to  form  an  opinion, 
with  anything  like  certainty,  of  the  number  of  dogs  that 
enjoyed  the  pleasure  of  barking  at  us  during  the  ten 
minutes  we  passed  at  Santa  Fe ; but  a rough  calcula- 
tion would  set  down  at  least  ten  to  every  door,  and  five 
to  every  yard. 

As  the  sun  rose,  we  were  ploughing  our  way  through 
a dreary  region  of  deep  sand,  the  land  on  either  side  of 
the  road  overrun  with  weeds  and  bushes  of  rankest 
growth.  Flocks  of  screaming  parrots  and  macaws 
were  flying  lazily  over  head,  while  birds  of  red,  green, 
and  richly-variegated  plumage  were  crossing  the  road 


FIRST  VIEW  OF  VERA  CRUZ. 


403 


and  fluttering  among  the  bushes  in  every  direction. 
After  passing  the  rude  huts  of  several  negro  families, 
who  must  here  gain  but  a scanty  subsistence,  we  at 
length  emerged  from  this  strange  sandy  region.  A 
single  turn  of  the  road,  and  we  were  directly  upon  the 
beach  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico — we  had  left  the  hot  and 
pestilential  air  of  the  sultry  lands,  and  were  inhaling  the 
pure  breeze  from  the  ocean.  Thus  in  one  night  had  we 
passed  entirely  through  the  tierra  caliente,  and  almost 
without  seeing  it.  To  be  sure,  we  had  beheld  the  rude 
bamboo  or  cane  huts  of  the  inhabitants,  hardly  one 
degree  removed  from  the  wigwam  of  the  wildest  In- 
dian ;*  we  had  inhaled  the  indolent  breezes  which  come 
loaded  with  the  perfume  of  endless  varieties  of  flowers  ; 
we  had  seen  myriads  of  bright  fireflies  in  all  their  mid- 
night splendour — but  we  had  not  seen  all  that  we  had 
hoped  to  see  in  a region  which,  to  use  an  Irish  expres- 
sion, is  running  over  with  parrots,  bananas,  pineapples, 
monkeys,  and  other  tropical  fruits. 

* This  may  not  be  a fitting  place,  but  it  may  be  here  mentioned  that  since 
the  earlier  part  of  this  work  was  stereotyped  the  author  has  had  several  con- 
versations with  Mr.  Gregg  in  relation  to  the  Waco  Indians,  in  which  that 
gentleman  has  expressed  his  decided  conviction  that  the  pretended  Wacoes 
were  no  other  than  a band  of  Cherokees,  driven  either  from  the  main  tribe 
in  the  United  States  for  some  misdemeanor,  or  a part  of  the  band  defeated 
in  Eastern  Texas  at  the  time  when  the  noted  chief  Bowles  was  killed. 
From  the  great  knowledge  Mr.  G.  has  of  the  Southwestern  Indians,  the  au- 
thor is  satisfied  that  he  is  correct.  He  describes  the  Wacoes,  among  whom 
he  has  travelled,  as  not  being  so  far  advanced  in  civilization  as  to  warrant  the 
belief  that  they  are  now  living  in  the  comfortable  quarters  described  in  the 
account  of  the  village  seen  by  the  Santa  F6  pioneers.  The  fact  that  they 
said  they  were  Wacoes  is  no  evidence,  as  lying  is  a prominent  trait  with  all 
Indians.  I might  also  add,  in  this  note,  that  the  name  “ Salezar”  has  not 
been  rightly  given  in  the  earlier  part  of  the  narrative.  Anxious  to  do  that 
worthy  all  justice,  I would  here  state  that  the  true  orthography  is  Damasio 
Salazar.  He  shall  not  say  that  I have  robbed  him  of  any  fame  by  spelling 
his  name  wrong. 

Mr.  Gregg  is  shortly  to  publish  a work  upon  the  prairies  and  the  Northern 
Mexican  settlements,  which,  from  his  great  experience  and  information,  must 
throw  a flood  of  light  upon  one  of  the  dark  corners  of  the  earth. 


404 


THE  VOMITO. 


From  the  point  where  we  first  struck  the  low,  sandy 
beach,  although  it  must  have  been  five  miles  distant,  we 
could  plainly  see  the  churches,  houses,  and  even  the 
walls  which  environ  Vera  Cruz.  The  drive  along  the 
water’s  edge  was  slow  and  tedious,  for  the  wheels  of  the 
diligence  sank  deep,  and  the  sun,  although  but  an  hour 
risen  from  his  cool  bed  in  the  gulf,  was  pouring  down  a 
flood  of  such  heat  as  is  only  to  be  felt  upon  this  unprotect- 
ed sandy  shore.  While  yet  a mile  intervened  between 
us  and  the  city,  we  could  see  innumerable  sopilotes,  or 
Mexican  buzzards,  standing  moodily  and  solemnly  upon 
the  walls,  housetops,  and  different  towers  and  steeples, 
their  eyes  turned  watchfully  downward,  on  the  look-out 
for  their  accustomed  food.  They  are  the  scavengers 
of  the  city,  and  are  never  molested.  On  reaching  the 
gate,  around  which  a crowd  of  soldiers  were  lounging, 
a short  detention  sufficed  with  the  officer  stationed  there 
to  grant  us  permission  to  enter.  A large  conducta,  or 
escort  guarding  nearly  a million  of  dollars  in  silver,  was 
entering  the  city  at  the  same  time.  A drive  of  some 
fifteen  minutes,  through  the  wide  and  well-built  streets, 
brought  us  to  the  principal  hotel  of  the  place,  where  we 
were  soon  safely  housed. 

We  were  not  long  in  learning  that  the  much-dreaded 
black  vomit  was  still  raging  in  the  city,  although  it  had 
left  the  Woodbury.  The  stranger,  as  he  looks  through 
the  comparatively  clean  and  airy  thoroughfares  of  Vera 
Cruz,  and  sees  the  wide  waters  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico 
lying  directly  before  him,  is  at  a loss  to  account  for  the 
sickness  which  yearly  carries  to  the  grave  its  hundreds 
of  victims.  The  low  and  damp  region,  through  a part 
of  which  we  had  passed  in  the  morning,  is  the  section 
whence  come  the  noxious  miasmas  that  generate  the 
vomito,  The  friends  wha  had  preceded  us  from  Jala- 


FINAL  DEPARTURE. 


405 


pa  were  fortunately  all  well  when  we  reached  Vera 
Cruz,  although  some  of  them  had  suffered  from  the  ef- 
fects of  the  climate. 

Our  stay  in  the  infected  city  was  short,  the  next  morn- 
ing seeing  us  all  on  board  the  cutter ; but  I cannot  take 
my  leave  of  Vera  Cruz  without  expressing  my  warmest 
thanks  to  Mr.  Hargous,  the  then  acting  American  con- 
sul, as  well  as  to  the  countrymen  I met  at  his  residence, 
for  the  many  acts  of  kindness  and  attention  I received 
at  their  hands.  The  liberality  of  the  Americans  of  this 
place,  as  hundreds  of  my  unfortunate  comrades  can  tes- 
tify, was  ever  active  in  alleviating  their  wants  and  sor- 
rows. 

Previous  to  the  sailing  of  the  Woodbury,  a salute  was 
fired  by  her  commander,  Captain  Nones,  in  honour  of 
Judge  Ellis  and  of  Mr.  Hargous,  as  well  as  of  the  then 
chief  of  the  Mexican  navy,  Commodore  Marin,  who 
was  on  board  at  the  time.  The  salute  was  answered 
from  the  barque  Ann  Louisa,  an  American  packet  then 
in  port  under  command  of  Captain  Clifford.  After 
Commodore  Marin  had  left  the  Woodbury  and  reached 
his  own  vessel,  the  Libertad,  another  salute  was  fired  by 
him,  which  was  duly  returned  by  the  cutter.  These 
ceremonies  over,  we  got  under  way  with  a fair  breeze, 
and  before  nightfall  nothing  could  be  seen  of  the  low 
coast  upon  which  stands  the  once  rich  and  populous 
city  of  Vera  Cruz,  or  the  True  Cross,  or  of  the  frowning 
Castle  of  San  Juan  de  Ulua,  which  commands  the  har- 
bour— the  towering  peak  of  Orizava,  rising  far  in  the 
distance,  was  the  only  point  of  Mexico  visible. 

It  was  on  the  12th  of  May  that  the  cutter  Wood- 
bury sailed  from  La  Villa  Rica  de  la  Vera  Cruz,  as  the 
Spaniards  were  wont  to  call  this  city  in  the  proud  days 
of  her  prosperity.  To  the  commander  of  our  vessel, 


406 


THE  AUTHOR’S  FAREWELL. 


Captain  Nones,  as  well  as  to  Lieutenants  Peters,  Wil- 
son, and  Faunce,  we  were  all  under  great  obligations, 
and  I cannot  let  the  opportunity  pass  without  an  ex- 
pression of  thanks  for  their  kindness.  On  the  morning 
of  the  18th  of  May,  exactly  one  year  from  the  date 
when  I left  it  so  full  of  expectation  of  a pleasant  four 
months’  excursion,  the  low  coast  which  surrounds  the 
mouths  of  the  mighty  Mississippi  appeared  in  sight — 
we  had  reached  the  Balize. 

And  here,  after  begging  pardon  of  my  reader  for 
sending  him  ashore  at  a point  so  desolate  and  dreary,  I 
must  take  my  leave.  For  one  year  we  have  journeyed 
together  through  scenes  of  varied  nature.  If  his  ran- 
dom recollections  of  travel  have  served  to  beguile  an 
idle  hour,  to  interest  and  amuse  the  reader  who  has  ac- 
companied him,  the  knowledge  of  it  will  more  than 
compensate  the  author  for  his  many  dark  days  of  pri- 
vation and  suffering  upon  the  prairies,  and  the  months 
of  captivity  he  shared  with  his  companions  in  Mexico. 


THE  END. 


